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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis) occupies a unique position in the pet trade. Inexpensive and widely available, it can be a hearty captive if given proper care. However, this West African native is more easily collected than bred, so most that become available are wild-caught. Collection and shipment, hard on any creature, is particularly difficult for chameleons to endure. As a result, a variety of health problems are commonly seen in newly-acquired Senegal Chameleons.
In some ways, the Senegal Chameleon situation reminds me of that faced by Green Anoles in the 1960’s and ‘70’s. Because they were interesting and cheap, these fascinating little lizards were often purchased without much forethought. It took many years, and untold numbers of dead anoles, before we understood their specific husbandry needs.
The following information can be applied to most chameleons; I’ve focused on Senegals because they are often chosen by novice keepers (Note: the Smooth Chameleon, formerly considered a Senegal subspecies, is now classified as C. laevigatus).
Proper Care
As with any reptile, a proper environment and diet is essential to good health; lacking this, no amount of veterinary attention will be of long-term use. Chameleons are particularly demanding in their requirements.
Senegal Chameleons need a highly-varied diet, large, airy enclosures maintained at 74-78 F (with a basking spot of 85-90 F), humidity levels of 60-90% and exposure to UVB radiation. Please see the articles below and write me for additional information.
Stress
Chameleons are notably stress-prone. The mere presence of a dominant individual, even if separately caged, can cause others in the room to cease feeding and become ill. So it’s easy to imagine the effects of cramming hundreds of chameleons into holding and shipping containers.
Stress weakens the immune system, and therefore is a consideration in all medical conditions. Bacterial, parasitic and other infections will worsen as the immune system falters. As wild-caught lizards invariably harbor parasites, fecal tests are essential for all Senegal Chameleons that have not been captive-bred.
Regarding stress, please remember that chameleons are pets to be observed, but not handled. Because they do not run off when approached, people are sometimes misled into believing that chameleons “enjoy” handling. Nothing could be further from the truth!
Egg Retention (Dystocia)
Under ideal conditions, female Senegal Chameleons are prolific breeders, producing 20-70 eggs twice yearly. However, gravid females that are collected and shipped overseas usually fare poorly. Typically arriving at their new homes in a stressed and dehydrated condition, females should be watched carefully and examined by a veterinarian if they appear to be carrying eggs. Gravid females may appear thin, yet heavy in the abdomen, and usually exhibit restless behavior (searching for a nest site) or listlessness.
Calcium deficiencies, a concern in any gravid reptile, are common among wild-caught female Senegal Chameleons. Depressed calcium levels will prevent the female from expelling her eggs; veterinary intervention is essential if death is to be prevented.
The lack of a suitable nesting site can also cause a female to retain her eggs, even if she is in good health. Please write in for further information.
Dehydration
The skin of dehydrated chameleons will have a “puckered”/wrinkled appearance, and shedding will be difficult. Dried skin, leftover from previous sheds, may be evident on the feet and toes.
Most new arrivals will be dehydrated, but the problem is also common in long-term captives. Senegal Chameleons generally drink only when water is dripped or misted into their terrariums. In some cases, dripping water must be continually available if the animal is to remain hydrated. Low humidity levels will add to the problem, and likely increase your pet’s drinking water requirements.
Shipping-Related Injuries
Rubbed snouts, skin abrasions and abscesses are common among imported lizards of all species. Due to their unique structure, chameleon eyes are particularly sensitive. Check carefully for tears and bits of debris that may have become lodged around the eyes.
Nutritional Concerns
Senegal Chameleons that adjust to captivity often feed ravenously, misleading owners into thinking that all is well. It’s important to understand that they need a highly-varied diet; crickets and mealworms alone, even if supplemented, are not sufficient. Please see the article below for suggested diets.
Metabolic Bone Disease, evidenced by malformed jaws and limbs in its later stages, is a common concern. Calcium, Vitamin D3 and UVB needs are inter-related – all three must be viewed as a single concept. Recently, for example, chameleons have been found to adjust their basking behavior in accordance with dietary levels of D3; please see the article below and write me for further information.
There’s some evidence that Vitamin A deficiencies are involved in several of the health issues faced by pet chameleons and other reptiles. Unfortunately, we know little about their actual requirements. A varied diet will help; please write in for supplement suggestions.
Please check out my posts on Twitterand Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.
Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.
Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio
Further Reading
Senegal & Smooth Chameleon Care
Chameleon Care: excellent book by R. and P. Bartlett
Hello my fiance and I recently bought a Senegal Chameleon. He loves Chameleons every time we would go to a pet store he would get happy when he saw a picture of one and told me some day I will own one. That day was just last week on the 11th. We went to a recommended local store just to browse around then I spotted the reptile section and there it was in bright orange letters CHAMELEONS. Then I knew finally he has what he wants.So we bought it and named him Rosco. To us he seemed fine, we saw him puke up his food but we thought maybe it was just too big or something He wasn’t very active and slept all day we figured he was just getting used to his new home but sadly they sold us an ill Chameleon. Im not sure if he had a seizure but on the 14 apparently he stuck out his entire tounge and he was unable to put it back in his mouth.
It was hard to see it was his tongue and a red thin strip hanging from his mouth. We took him back to the pet store and asked to put him down because I was in shock to see my little guy in that condition. After that horrible sight I decided to buy another one for my fiance. They were really helpful on giving me information and tips on how to not lose the new one. But you could really tell the difference from Rosco and our new baby Syklone.
thanks.
He is much more active and has a beautiful green color we have seen him eat his crickets and he moves around a lot and uses his tail to move from place to place. I set up his habitat I have the The ventilated screen cage with plants, the dripper for moisture, a big log the uv light and the heat bulb lamp thing. I was also encouraged to include the thermometers that keep track of humidity and temperature in his habitat to be more precise on how he was adapting to the heat and moisture to keep him healthy. But im having trouble understanding the “basking” part. This article said the temperature had to be from 74 to 78 F with a basking spot of 85 to 90 F like, what does this mean? And also I was wondering , the lighting…do I need to leave both lights on for 12 to 14 hours or no? All advice and comments are helpful
Susie and Gera Ortiz
Hello Susana
Thanks for your interest. Concerning heating, the basking site is one area, usually below an incandescent bulb, where the lizard can warm up to 85-90. It then needs to be able to move to cooler places within the cage (sometimes called the cage’s ambient temperature). It’s important to have this thermal gradient – areas of different temperatures – for all reptiles, so that they can adjust their body temps as needed (warmer when digesting, etc.). In small cages, this can be difficult to accomplish, as the entire cage may take on the basking temp. – glass aquariums are especially bad in this regard.
The basking bulb (incandescent) and the UVB bulb (usually florescent) should be on for 12-14 hours. If another bulb is used to warm the rest of the cage to 74-78 or so, it can be turned off at night. Red/black night bulbs can be used to heat tank to 70-74 after dark if needed (chameleons do not sense red/black light).
The lizard should be able to get within 6-12 inches of the UVB bulb if it is a florescent (further is ok for mercury vapor bulbs); the Zoo Med 10.0 provides the highest output among florescent UVB bulbs.
You mentioned crickets…please note that crickets alone, even if properly fed and supplemented with powdered minerals, are not an appropriate diet. The lizard will eat them with relish and grow a bit, but will eventually develop nutritional disorders and die long before its time. They can be part of the diet, but not the sole diet. Variety and proper supplementation is vital to their well being…please read these articles on Chameleon Diets and Chameleon Care and write back if you have any questions.
Senegal Chameleons do best in cages that are filled with live or artificial plants; there is some evidence that they do not feel secure unless in contact with dense cover; feeding is a good sign, but please be sure that the lizard can get out of view when it is at rest.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Thnks this helps alot! il make sure to get different foods and follow your instruction. You are verry helpful!
I will keep you updated on her progress after i purchase more supplements and variations of food.
My pleasure, Caleb. Let me know if you need help in locating anything, and pl keep me posted, Enjoy, best, Frank
Hi there Frank. I have a few questions regarding my 6 month old Senegal. I am hoping to find out when it would be a good time to move her to the larger, fully screened enclosure that I have. I currently have her in a smaller, tall glass enclosure that is screened on the top. I purchased her from a lady that had her housed in this reptarium and I immediately purchased the screened enclosure because I learned that glass does not provide adequate airflow. My concern is that she may still be a bit young for the large enclosure. I believe it is around 4 feet tall. I do not free feed her right now, I have a clear plastic container set up that she eagerly eats from so in the larger enclosure she would not have to search for food if that would be an issue. My next concern is when will I know that she needs to lay eggs? Should I place an area in her cage for this? Also, I have read that Chameleons do not enjoy being held. I’m curious is there an exception to this rule? My Senegal actually comes to the front of her cage door and when I open the door climbs onto my hand. This is something that she does at-least a few times per week. Am I causing harm by allowing this? I do not allow anyone else to hold her at all. I just don’t want to cause any stress, but I also don’t want to ignore what seems to be a desire on her part to be held by me. I appreciate your response to my lengthy blabbering and really enjoy reading all of your information on Chameleons. If it is easier to respond to an email please feel free. aharger79@ymail.com. Thanks again, April H.
Hi April,
You raise some very good points..please don’t hesitate to write whenever you desire.
Always best to provide a large enclosure. The more space and cover the better. As long as she’s feeding regularly, releasing moths, crickets and other insects into the enclosure is a great way to encourage foraging behavior and activity. Please see this article for tips on increasing dietary variety, a key to good health.
Gravid females usually become restless and go off feed…you’ll see her prowl about, try to escape, etc…always best to have a site available, and to line up a vet in case she does not lay.
It is a good sign that she crawls onto your hand…shows a lack of stress, etc., and that you have done a good bog in adjusting her to her enclosure. She may associate you with food, or you may be seeing exploratory/escape behavior Whereas most lizards bolt at the door when trying to get out, chameleons just amble along as usual). This is a good way to move her if you need to re-locate, but do not go out of your way to handle her. they are not social animals and even those reptiles that live in groups do not derive any benefit from being handled (sorry, most people hate to hear that, but no way around it – just not within their natures!).
Good luck, enjoy and pl keep me posted, Frank