Breeding Emperor Scorpions
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Please see Part I and II of this article for information on scorpion natural history and further details on emperor scorpion care.
The captive reproduction of emperor scorpions is a most interesting endeavor (for hobbyists and, I imagine, the scorpions themselves!). When properly housed and cared for, emperor scorpions are relatively easy to breed. This is surprising, given that they are such unique and highly specialized creatures, and is an opportunity that should not be missed. Many prominent invertebrate specialists started out with this species…keeping them is a wonderful way of becoming involved in invertebrate husbandry, and will almost certainly “hook” you for good.
Distinguishing the Sexes
In captivity, as within certain parts of the natural range, mating may occur during any month. Adult females are longer and stouter than males, but this is not a reliable means of distinguishing the sexes.
There are some slight differences in the shape of the genital openings. View the scorpions from below, in a clear plastic box, when attempting to sex in this manner – do not restrain them via hand or tongs. Photos of the undersides of male and female emperor scorpions are posted at http://www.pandinusimperator.nl/EN/biology_EN.htm.
Courtship and Mating
Reproduction is most likely to occur if your scorpions are housed in a large terrarium that provides ample burrowing opportunities. All species studied thus far perform a “mating dance”, with the pair locking claws and moving about. It is theorized that this helps to clear a patch of ground for the deposition of the males’ sperm packet. I imagine, but have not been able to determine for sure, that the specific dance “moves” also aid in species’ recognition among these nearly blind creatures (this is the case in “dancing” scorpion relatives, such as jumping spiders).
The male deposits a sperm packet on the ground and pulls the female over it (it is tempting here to draw analogies to salamander reproduction). Hooks along the edges of the sperm packet latch onto the female’s genital opening, and the eggs are then fertilized internally.
Gestation and Birth
Gestation is highly variable, ranging from 7-10 months on average but sometimes exceeding 1 year. It is likely that stress, temperature and other factors play a role in determining the length of the gestation period.
Females continue to feed while gravid, and may swell noticeably…when viewed from above, the carapace segments appear widely spaced, and seem ready to split apart (heavily-fed scorpions of either sex, however, may also appear gravid).
The young (sometimes called “scorplings”), 8-30 in number, are born alive and measure about 5/8 of an inch in length. They are white in color and remain on the female’s back until their first moult, at which time they darken and begin to venture off on their own. Once this occurs, they will readily accept ½ inch crickets, small waxworms, newly molted mealworms, wild-caught insects and canned silkworms.
Maternal Care of the Young
Female emperor scorpions feed their young with finely-shredded insects – this really is something to see. By all means, try to do so by viewing yours at night with the aid of an incandescent “nocturnal” bulb. The degree of care they provide to their young is extraordinary, and is far greater than one might expect from such supposedly “primitive” creatures. Even among those scorpions that exhibit social behavior, emperors stand out as being very advanced in this regard.
Caring for the Mother and Her Brood
Once the female has given birth, all other scorpions should be removed from the terrarium, as she will become highly aggressive and defensive. Do not relocate the mother…this inevitably stresses her and may cause her to consume her young.
Females with young react aggressively to any disturbance, even occasionally grabbing and eating scorplings that become dislodged from their backs. This is not an uncommon occurrence – do not remove the remaining young unless she begins eating them regularly, as the overall survival rate is improved when clutches are reared with their mother. I have raised several clutches to adulthood with the mother present – the key lies in disturbing her as little as possible and in providing a deep, secure burrow.
I usually raise the terrarium’s temperature to 85-90 F when rearing young emperor scorpions – this may not be essential, but I have found it to work well.
Sexual maturity in the wild is reportedly reached in 4-7 years, but captives may breed when only 12-14 months of age. Emperor scorpions under my care have reproduced at age 3 and 4 years.
Several other scorpions may be maintained and bred in much the same manner as the emperor scorpion. Next time I’ll post a short note highlighting one of these – the Asian forest scorpion, and will also address a species from a very different habitat type, the huge South African rock scorpion. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, frank Indiviglio.
The Woodland Park Zoo provides interesting information on emperor and other scorpions in nature and captivity at:
http://www.zoo.org/factsheets/scorpion/scorpion.html
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about 4 months ago
Hello Cyndi, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the idea…yes, pothos is a great one. I also use it for a variety of amphibians, even as an “emergent plant”.
Groups do not always work out in captivity, even for species that are communal in the wild; but great to observe an established group; we still have much to learn.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Hello my good friend Frank I’d like to talk about a whole different species of animal more specifically fire bellied toads what is the best setup to use for them where they can even reproduce in the tank I have heard and seen many different setups but being your the herpetologist perhaps you can tell me
about 2 months ago
Hello James,
Nice to hear from you again; great frogs to keep…one of the most active and interesting in my opinion. They are quite aquatic, spending much time floating about but need floating plants and/or turtle rafts, cork bark, etc. on which to rest. I find turtle piers useful as feeding stations…prevent earthworms, waxworms from drowning; crickets usually do fine clinging to plants.
Please check out this article on breeding and rearing the tadpoles,
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Hello again Frank I also have another question about a reptile what is the most appropiate setup for crested geckos?
about 2 months ago
Hello James,
I’m planning to post an article shortly; here is another with some very good info. Please check it out and write back so we can go over the details when you are ready to get started.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 month ago
Dear frank it has been awhile and hope all is well everything is fine here my fellow colleague I had just lost my male hadogenes paucidens apparently he lived his long life but left offspring to follow for his death but the real reason I’m contacting you is the recent acquirement I purchased today which I believe to be the famous Thai Giant Scorpion I believe to be a male hence the broken aculeus exciting as it is its mostly distunguished by its smooth ungranulated chelae do you have any insight on this species?
about 1 month ago
Hello James,
Nice to hear from you again.
The scorpion sold under that common name is usually Heteromitrus laoticus. They tend to be high strung and we do not know much about their venom,. so be careful. You can keep it as described for other Asian Forest Scorpions in that genus. They may live in groups, but it can be difficult to introduce them to one another unless they have already been living together.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 month ago
Dear Frank I have found a website about the species that seems beneficial please let me know if this helps: http://scorpionidae.blogspot.com/p/species-info.html?m=1
Seems they are defensive. They are also from Vietnam.
about 1 month ago
Hello James,
Thanks for the update; information is sound; I’m not in favor of rating scorpion venoms in terms of toxicity, as we know little about individual’s reactions to their venom, and treatment is not nearly advanced as for venomous snakes. Young will adjust better to captivity if born there, but cannot be trusted or considered docile.
Here’s an abstract of possible medicinal uses for their venom, and an article concerning sexual dimorphism; hope you find them of interest.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 weeks ago
Hey Frank, Been awhile since my last report. Mom and offspring are thriving. Have a couple runts but for the most part the juveniles are looking great. My Fiancee posed a great question. With the # of Scorpions we have, Mom and her 10 offspring, what is a sufficient enclosure size also, with sexing being a somewhat difficult task. Is inbreeding a problem. Should we seperate them at all? Your advice is greatly appreciated
about 2 weeks ago
Hello
Thanks for the update…great news.
Inbreeding seems to be far less of a concern with invertebrates than with mammals and birds; Emperors tend to stay in family groups in the wild; there is some mixing, no doubt. As they mature, you might try adding new individuals, but some inbreeding often occurs in zoos and seems not to cause problems.
As they grow, aggression can occur if they are crowded. A 55 gallon could accommodate the group once they are all fully grown, esp. if deep substrate and numerous caves, cork bark pieces etc. are provided. They tolerate more crowding when small…please remind me of the size of your current tank and the set-up when you have a moment.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.