Toad Articles
Live Plants in Amphibian Terrariums – Pesticide Concerns
Nov 30th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Live plants are very useful in creating amphibian terrariums that are both attractive to the eye and beneficial for the animals housed therein. However, amphibian skin is permeable to substances as small as oxygen molecules. Several readers have recently questioned whether pesticides used on terrarium plants could harm amphibians through physical contact.
Examples of Contact Poisoning
Most chemicals do readily penetrate the skin of frogs and salamanders and can kill them in short order. Pesticides on plants are a concern, even though they will not be consumed.
A coworker of mine once lost a group of Blomberg’s Toads and Smoky Jungle Frogs after confining them to quickly-rinsed enclosure that had been cleaned with Nolvasan, and I witnessed a Leopard Frog expire after being put into a pail that had previously housed a Fowler’s Toad (the stressed toad had apparently released skin toxins).
Locating Safe Plants
Some commercial growers who cater to zoos and the pet trade claim not to use pesticides. The reptile department of your local zoo, if reachable, might be a good place to start when searching for reputable plant suppliers. Pet stores specializing in tropical fishes usually buy pesticide-free plants as well. Some, especially those that carry plants for outdoor ponds, may stock emergent species or others suitable for use with amphibians.
Removing Surface Pesticides
If you are unsure of pesticide presence, discard the soil that arrived with the plant and rinse the plant, roots and all, vigorously. Finish up by submerging the plant and swishing it about underwater. Some recommend a light soap solution, but I have not found this to be necessary.
Systemic Pesticides
A greater potential concern is posed by systemic pesticides, which do not remain on the surface but rather work their way into the plant’s tissues. Fortunately, these are not commonly used with on commercially raised plants suitable for terrariums.
One colleague of mine did run into a situation involving systemic pesticides. He held the plants for 30 days before introducing them to his exhibits. He had no problems with any of several tree frog species that utilized the plants frequently, and eventually used them with arboreal salamanders (Bolitoglossa spp.) as well. This time frame is based on observation rather than rigid testing, but has proven quite dependable.
Further Reading
Those who keep herbivorous turtles and lizards also need to be concerned about potentially lethal plants. The species listed in my article Common Plants that are Toxic to Birds should be avoided by herp keepers as well.
To learn about growing safe plants for herbivorous reptiles, please see Reptile Gardens.
Please write in with your questions and comments.
Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio
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Loading ...Top 7 Amphibian Care, Conservation and Natural History Websites
Nov 9th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Many amphibian websites tend to focus only on popularly kept species. Today I’ve compiled a list that addresses both common species and less well-known topics, such as amphibian health care and caecilian husbandry.
Salamanders and Newts
This is the most comprehensive salamander-oriented website available. I’m very impressed by the depth of interest and expertise evidenced by many of the members, who are always eager to help less-experienced hobbyists. The forum discussions are always interesting and often break new ground, and the posted articles and care sheets are top notch.
Frogs and Toads
This informative website focuses on frogs other than the “attention-grabbing” poison frogs, although discussions concerning these are welcome. It’s very refreshing to see that North American frogs and other under-represented groups are given the spotlight here. Popular pet trade species such as White’s treefrogs, horned frogs and African bullfrogs, are also well covered.
The discussion forums show great promise, and the care sheets and natural history information supplied are of excellent quality.
I’ve never understood why toads have always been given so little attention by amphibian enthusiasts. They exhibit an amazing diversity of forms and lifestyles and, on the whole, make much hardier and more responsive pets than do frogs. The folks at ToadilyToads have taken great strides in remedying this unfortunate situation.
This website deals with all aspects of toad keeping and conservation, and provides some enjoyable activities as well. I was especially happy to see that a good deal of attention is given to encouraging local species through backyard and similar habitat improvements.
This site is a great resource for those who keep or are interested in learning more about the ever-popular poison frogs and their relatives (“dart frogs”, Mantella spp., Dendrobates spp., etc.). The discussion forums are quite active, and quality care and natural history information is available.
Caecilians
A real find for those interested in this little-studied but fascinating amphibian order, this site posts some of the most well-researched caecilian natural history information available. The captive care details provided are a rare and valuable resource.
Those interested in caecilian husbandry are well-situated to uncover volumes of new information on these unusual creatures; this website would serve well as a vehicle to publish such and to interact with others working with caecilians.
Health Care
Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital
I’ve long relied upon Dr. Kevin Wright, founder of the Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital, for answers to my most difficult pet and zoo animal health and husbandry questions.
One of the world’s foremost exotic animal veterinarians and coauthor of the classic Amphibian Medicine and Captive Husbandry, Dr. Wright has posted a variety of much-needed amphibian care sheets on the hospital’s website. Covering topics ranging from general emergencies to parasites, the information contained therein is an invaluable resource to the amphibian keeper. Hobbyists whose interests extend beyond amphibians will find a wealth of information on the care of invertebrates, fishes, reptiles, birds and mammals as well…a real treasure trove! For information on phone and email consultations with Dr. Wright, please click here.
Conservation
Amphibian Ark was formed in response to the wave of amphibian extinctions occurring worldwide. The organization coordinates both field and captive-management conservation programs in association with zoos, museums and researchers worldwide.
The Amphibian Ark Newsletter, posted monthly, is the internet’s most comprehensive collection of articles dealing with amphibian research, conservation and natural history.
Please write in with your questions and comments.
Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio
(+1 rating, 1 votes) Loading ...Common Problems When Raising Toads – Bloating and Paralysis
Oct 28th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The tadpoles of American Toads (Bufo/Anaxyrus americanus) and Fowler’s Toads (B. woodhousei fowleri), and of related US natives, are frequently collected by herpers young and old and taken home to raise. They usually prove quite hardy, and, even on nutrient-poor diets (i.e. lettuce), transform into tiny toadlets within a few weeks.
Toad Maladies
Young toads often prove difficult to raise however, and each year I receive questions concerning the same 2 problems – bloating 
and paralysis (difficulty hopping, problems catching food, etc.). I’ve run across this myself when raising American toad tadpoles for a release program in NYC, where most of the tadpoles transformed, but died soon after.
Nutritional Deficiencies
I’ve come to believe that 2 distinct problems are at work. Difficulty in using the rear legs is probably linked to deficiency in calcium or another nutrient, but efforts to reverse it, at least in small toads, have proven unsuccessful.
Using supplements on the food given newly 
transformed toads helps, but we really do not know what most species, especially North American natives, actually require.
Tadpole nutrition is another area that needs investigation. Poorly nourished tadpoles may transform, but then die several weeks later…I’ve had this happen on a number of occasions over the years, with several species, even the relatively indestructible African clawed frog (Xenopus laevis).
Bacterial Infection
Bloating is usually a byproduct of a bacterial infection, and may be connected to nutrition. Toads already weakened by a nutritional deficiency may be more likely to become infected with bacteria that healthier clutch mates fight off – hence both symptoms in 1 toad. This is based mainly on anecdotal evidence, but does seem to happen time and time again, and with several species.
Natural Mortality
Another point to bear in mind is that, among species that lay huge clutches, a great many tadpoles will not survive even under the best of circumstances. Some turtles lay infertile eggs, apparently to satiate predators and take attention away from viable ones – I have no hard evidence, but I would not be surprised to learn that weaker tadpoles serve a similar function.
Feeding Tadpoles and Young Toads
Most native toad tadpoles are omnivorous. Try to provide them with as much variety as possible, and bear in mind that, in large groups, smaller, weaker individuals are easily out-competed at feeding time. I’ve had good luck raising tadpoles on a diet comprised of tropical fish food flakes, algae tablets and kale pre-soaked in hot water (this breaks down thick cell walls). Metamorphs (newly transformed toads) consume scores of species of leaf litter invertebrates in the wild, complicating our job in raising them. In addition to tiny frog standards such as fruit flies, springtails and pinhead crickets, you might try collecting tiny invertebrates as toad food (please see article below).
Further Reading
Please see my article Leaf Litter Invertebrates for information on collecting live food for tiny amphibian pets.
Please write in with your questions and comments.
Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio
Haswell’s Frog tadpole image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by LiquidGhoul
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets, Part III: Diet and Feeding Techniques
May 4th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Surinam toads are well known for their bizarre reproductive strategy (please see article below), unusual appearance, large size and unique habitats. They make very interesting pets but, as most in the trade are wild-caught, present a few problems when first introduced into the aquarium. Last time we took a look at establishing the new Surinam toad and helping it to make the adjustment to captive life (Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets: Acclimating New Animals and Special Considerations). Today I’ll take a look at their dietary needs.
A Live Food Specialist
Surinam toads will take live food (or food moved before them as if alive) only. Their favorites are earthworms, blackworms and small fishes such as guppies, platys, swordtails, mollies, minnows and shiners. Use goldfish no more than once each month, and vary the species fed as much as is possible.
Feeding Techniques and Cautions
You can leave fishes in with the frog, as it will likely feed only at night until it has acclimated. Be sure to adjust the fishes to your aquarium’s water temperature (float bag for 20 minutes) so that the frogs do not contract Ick or other diseases that might be transmitted from stressed fishes (also, fishes are more likely to be consumed if they swim about normally).
When using earthworms, introduce them to the tank at night (foe newly acquired frogs). Worms usually survive for 8 hours or so underwater, but add only 1 at first and make sure to remove it in the AM if uneaten.
As mentioned in Part I of this article, Surinam toads often swallow gravel while feeding and are best kept in bare-bottomed aquariums. This is a special concern when using earthworms, which are taken right off the substrate, and blackworms, which burrow into it. If you use substrate, avoid feeding blackworms and offer earthworms from a plastic feeding tong.
Introducing Canned Shrimp and Snails
Well-habituated Surinam toads will consume prawn and other non-living food items that are dropped so as to land directly in front of their mouths. Start your frog off with live food, but after awhile try using canned shrimp and snails to provide dietary variety.
Composition of the Diet
I have kept and bred Surinam toads for a number of years using a diet comprised of approximately 75% fish (platys, guppies, mollies, minnows, shiners and occasional goldfish) and earthworms, with the balance of their food intake consisting of blackworms and shrimp.
Further Reading
Please see Breeding A Skin-Brooding Amphibian: the Surinam Toad (Pipa pipa) to read about captive reproduction of this fascinating animal.
You can learn about the other aquatic species in the family to which this frog belongs (Pipidae) at
Please write in with your comments and questions. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
(No Ratings Yet) Loading ...Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets: Acclimating New Animals and Special Considerations – Part 2
Apr 3rd
Click: Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets: Acclimating New Animals and Special Considerations – Part 1, to read the first part of this article.
Arranging Shelters and Hiding Spots
Give the frog as much cover as possible – plastic plants with weighted bases and others secured around rock ornaments or otherwise held at the bottom of the aquarium are best. The frogs will push beneath the plants and hide. They seem to prefer this to caves, and in fact rarely enter enclosed shelters in the manner of African clawed frogs.
However, Surinam toads will shelter under driftwood if the wood is arranged to provide an overhanging ledge as opposed to a discrete cave. Piling a few pieces atop one another usually does the trick, and adds a nice touch to the aquarium’s décor as well.
Light
When you first acquire your frog, do not use an aquarium light, and never turn the room light on when the room is very dark…the shock of the sudden glare would be very stressful. A group of frogs I received recently for a public exhibit were so shy that I needed to cover the aquarium with dark material for 2 weeks…if you do likewise, be sure to remove the covers slowly so as not to startle the frog.
Once your pet has acclimated to captivity you can use a light…just be sure to utilize real or artificial floating plants and the shelters described above to cut down on light levels. Surinam toads are nocturnal – even by day the turbid waters in which they dwell filter out a good deal of sunlight.
Filtration and Water Quality
You’ll need an effective filter, but take care to adjust the water flow so that it does not move the frog about. Although they are powerful swimmers, Surinam toads do not take well to strong currents.
Partial water changes (20-50% every 1-4 weeks, depending upon filtration) are vital to maintaining good water quality. Use a test kit to check your ammonia levels frequently. In common with other aquatic amphibians, Surinam toads excrete wastes in a highly toxic state. High levels of ammonia will cause them to cease feeding, and eventually to expire. Bear in mind that the waste products are largely comprised of liquids and will not be visible. Be sure to de-chlorinate all water used in the aquarium.
Fungus, Injuries and Parasites
Check the skin for grey or white areas, either of which might indicate fungus, and also for injuries…these frogs do not ship well, and often arrive in poor condition. Please write in for suggested treatments if you observe any unusual marks, scratches or discolored skin.
I sometimes treat wild caught Surinam toads for parasites following a fecal test or cloacal swab, but am hesitant to suggest this as a necessary precaution – amphibian medicine is not, to say the least, an “exact science”. However, it’s something to consider if your frog refuses to feed or experiences other difficulties…please write in if you would like to explore this option further.
Further Reading
Please see Breeding a Skin-Brooding Amphibian: the Surinam Toad (Pipa pipa) to read about my first experience in breeding this fascinating animal.
You can watch a captive Surinam toad feeding below:
(Note the frog’s backward “shoveling” motions with the rear legs. This is how they push their way below plants and bottom debris).
Feeding Surinam toads can be a bit tricky as well, but is a very interesting endeavor (please see video above). I’ll provide some suggestions that have worked for me (or, rather, my frogs!) next time. Until then, please write in with your comments and questions. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
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