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Scorpions as Pets – an Overview of their Care

Buthus ScorpionHello, Frank Indiviglio here.  I can’t remember a time when scorpions did not fascinate me, and their lure grows stronger with each new species I encounter.  In the past, I’ve written on the care and natural history of Emperor, Flat Rock, Asian Forest and other popular scorpions.  Today I’d like to present a general overview.  I hope it will help you to decide if a scorpion is the right choice for you and if so, how to get started. 

What’s in Store for Scorpion Fans

Among the world’s 2,000+ scorpion species we find an astonishing diversity of fascinating creatures, many of which make hardy pets that adjust well to small enclosures.  Several reproduce readily in captivity – lucky scorpion keepers may even be treated to the sight of a female feeding her offspring with crickets!  At least 15 species are established in the pet trade, and specialists are working with several others.

Natural History

At 8.5 inches in length,the South African Flat Rock Scorpion, Hadogenes troglodytes, is the largest scorpion regularly seen in captivity.  It is exceeded in size only by India’s 10-12 inch-long Giant Forest Scorpion, Heterometrus swammerdami.  The largest North American species is the 4 inch Florida Bark Scorpion, Centruroides gracilis.  Today’s giants are dwarfed by the ancient Sea Scorpionssome were larger than a person (please see article below)!  On the other end of the scale, several in the genus Microtityus are a mere 0.3 inches long.

Most scorpions feed upon a variety of invertebrates, but some specialize in catching land snails and other scorpions. Frogs and other vertebrates are sometimes taken by large individuals.  All scorpions produce live young, and some are parthenogenic (reproduce without mating).

Females often carry the young on their backs, and several species feed them with shredded insects.  Emperor Scorpions and others exhibit complex social behaviors.

Range and Habitat

Scorpions are found on all continents except Antarctica, and live in deserts, grasslands, caves, rainforests, human dwellings and many other habitats.  A surprising number thrive in temperate climates, ranging as far north as Canada; 90+ species inhabit the USA.  They are frequent stowaways…I was once called to Kennedy Airport to collect a scorpion that had stung a customs inspector as she checked luggage. 

Venom

C. gracilis with babiesScorpion venoms are complex, and are being studied for possible use in the treatment of Lupus, cancer, MS and Rheumatoid Arthritis, and as pain-killers and insecticides. 

Most of the 25-30 species capable of delivering dangerous stings are classified within the Genera Centruroides, Androctonus and Tityus. 

Scorpions in Captivity

Scorpions are nocturnal, but captives often emerge to feed by day. 

Due to peculiarities in molecular structure of the exoskeleton, scorpions fluoresce (“glow”) under UVB light; scientists have not determined what purpose this serves.

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Scorpions are best kept in screen-covered aquariums or plastic terrariums.   A 10-15 gallon tank is usually adequate for a single adult or pair.

Scorpions need a dark hiding spot.  Burrowers such as the Emperor Scorpion will dig their own retreats if provided with deep substrate.  Arboreal scorpions will hide behind an upright piece of bark, while South African Rock Scorpions prefer narrow rock crevices.  Most also accept inverted flower pots and plastic caves.

Substrate

A mix of coconut husk and peat moss works well for rainforest natives.  Burrows will stay intact if you add just enough water so that the substrate sticks together when squeezed.

Arizona Hairy Scorpions and other desert-dwellers can be kept on a sand/gravel mix.

Light

Reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your pets’ nocturnal activities. 

Heat

Most scorpions do well at temperatures of 78-86 F (please write in for individual species details).

Reptile night bulbs or ceramic reptile heaters can be used to warm the terrarium.  Heat pads are another option, but these warm the substrate more than the air.  Any heating element may dry out the terrarium, so it is important to monitor humidity.

Humidity

Rainforest species require humidity levels in the range of 75-85%, while those from arid habitats do best at 40-50% humidity.  Desert-dwelling scorpions spend most of their time in moist burrows, and should be provided a cave stocked with damp sphagnum moss.

Companions

Emperor Scorpions and several others live in social groups that occupy a single burrow system.  However, females with young may become aggressive…please write in for further information. 

If given enough space, a scorpion colony will establish a complicated maze of burrows.

Feeding

Most scorpions will thrive on a diet comprised of crickets, mealworms and earthworms, but they should also be offered roaches, waxworms, and other invertebrates.  Pink mice are not required, even for the largest species.

Once adjusted to their homes, scorpions will often accept canned grasshoppers and snails from feeding tongs.  Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Scorpions obtain water from their prey, but should also be provided with a shallow, easily-exited water bowl. 

Health Considerations

Flat Rock ScorpionAll scorpions produce venom and can deliver a painful sting.  While those commonly sold in the US pet trade are not known to have caused fatalities, dangerous species have appeared, either accidentally or purposefully.  Also, a serious allergic reaction to any venom is possible.  Purchase scorpions only from reliable sources, and be sure you can identify those you are considering. 

Scorpions adjust well to captivity, but cannot be “tamed” or “trusted”, and should not be touched with bare hands.  Move scorpions by urging them into a clear container with long-handled tongs, or by inverting a container over the animal and sliding the cover below.  Lifting by the “tail”, or telson, places you in danger and can injure the scorpion. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

 

Further Reading

When 8-Foot-Long Scorpions Roamed

Scorpion fossilized in amber

Keeping Emperor Scorpions

Checklist, USA’s Scorpions 

Scorpion Venom as a Morphine Substitute

 

Buthus Scorpion image originally referenced from wikipedia and uploaded by Evilhakfar

C. gracilis with babies image originally referenced from wikipedia and uploaded by Ja

Flat Rock Scorpion image originally referenced from wikipedia and uploaded by TimVickers

28 comments

  1. avatar

    Hey, ive got 4 small emperor scorpions and in the last 24 hours one has gone into a molt and seems to be stuck, not sure theres alot I can do for it so im going to have to freeze it, im wondering if its anything to do with my setup?

    Ive got a 3×1 foot glass tank, average temperature of 23 degrees celcius and 85% RH

    Is that ok conditions?
    Spiderlife substrate mixed with some vermiculite to help hold moisture.
    Theres 4 cork bark shelters and they are mainly fed crickets.

    Any help will be appreciated
    Thanks.

  2. avatar

    Hello Greg,

    Thanks for your interest.

    Unfortunately, scorpions that become stuck in a molt are difficult to assist. Try covering the screen top with plastic and spraying heavily, but at this point it is not likely to help. Manually pulling of the exoskeleton is not an option; the new exoskeleton will not have hardened properly, and stings are still possible as well.

    Difficult sheds can be caused by overly-dry conditions or lack of a moist shelter or burrow, or disturbance by people or other scorpions just prior to the shed. Sometimes it is related to underlying health issues of which we know little, unfortunately.

    Your set-up and humidity levels sound fine. 23 C (78 F) is right at the lower limit of their preferred temperature range; they often do fine at that temperature but raising it a bit would be preferable; immune system may operate more efficiently, etc. 27 C (86 F) is the upper limit; 25-26 C would be ideal.

    You might also try stocking the shelters with damp sphagnum moss, so there’s always an extra-moist area available. Providing substrate deep enough for burrows, and partially burying caves within the substrate, is also useful.

    Since you’ve provided the scorpion with a good habitat, I would guess that the trouble is either due to a disturbance just prior to the molt or an undetermined health problem.

    Please let me know if you need any further information, and please keep me posted.

    Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  3. avatar

    Yeah ill have to get another heater I think, its fine in the summer but right now its -9 outside and the tank is at 21, but the heaters have just come on with a timer, im going to euthanise the scorpion because theres definatley nothing I can do now.

    Also I do have sphagnum moss but I find it just dries out really fast, any tips?

    Thanks for the help.

  4. avatar

    Hello Greg

    Thanks for the feedback. Temperature could be involved; perhaps it dipped at night while the scorpion was starting to molt; it’s a very complicated process, as you can imagine…I’ve found various inverts “stuck” in the wild as well; conditions must be just right. Not sure what you are using, but ceramic heat emitters, as sold for herps, are useful, and do not emit light. Let me now if you need details or links to products.

    Heaters of any type will dry substrates. Sphagnum can hold a great deal of water; if you soak it in a bucket of water for awhile before using it may stay damp longer. Locating moss-filled caves below the substrate will also help slow evaporative loss.

    Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

    Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  5. avatar

    Hi Frank. Do you know of anywhere I could buy an Indian Giant Forest Scorpion?

    Thank you, Stephen.

  6. avatar

    Hi Stephen,

    I don’t have any sources right now…I’ll keep an eye out. You may be able to put in a request with some of the invertebrate suppliers on Kingsnake.com as well.

    Best, Frank

  7. avatar
    gustavo camarena

    hello frank i have a young emperor scorpion and his tail seems to be stuck in his old molt its barely been a day sence his molt, the old skin is soft and it seems as if he is trying to remove it but attempts have been unsuccesfull is there something i can do to help should i wait till his new exoskeleton hardens before i attempt aiding him?

  8. avatar

    Hi Gustavo,

    Best to leave the animal until the exoskeleton hardens; try covering most of the screen top with plastic and spray heavily; the humidity may aid in removal. Aiding the animal is difficult, as it’s easy to tear the exo skeleton, and the work needs to be done with forceps as the scorpion will sting when handled. Good luck, pl keep me posted, best, frank

  9. avatar
    gustavo camarena

    thanks frank ive done that reasently i also heard baby oil could help and he has done some attempt to remove it, unfortunatly its still stuck there. i covered the lid with plastic now and about how long should i wait till attempting to remove it? its been three days sence he moulted.

  10. avatar

    Hi Gustavo,

    No hard and fast rules, unfortunately…generally best to leave the animal, perhaps try another day or 2. Olive or baby Oil, reptile shedding aids, have been used with some success. tears in the exoskeleton, which may occur when you try to assist, may be treated as described in this article. Your safety should be the top priority if you decide to intervene…use long handled tongs as even debilitated animal can sting with amazing speed and accuracy, and we do not know much about the treatment of envenomations were an allergic or serious reaction to occur.B est, Frank

  11. avatar

    Hi Frank. I am trying to be prepared for when my Hadrurus arizonensis starts to molt. You mentioned the Sphagnum moss for some, but would this be advisable for desert scorpions like mine? I’m afraid this may be TOO damp.

    Thank you, Stephen

  12. avatar

    Hello Stephen,

    Good question, thanks for raising it. They live in arid habitats, but spend most of their time in burrows and other shelters where the humidity is much higher than on the surface…they likely seek out such places when molting as well. Best to give it the option of using a shelter stocked with moist moss and provide a drier cave as well. you can mist the cage heavily as well (when molting and regularly) as long as it dries thoroughly thereafter. Fungal and other problems only occur when they are confined to damp habitats. Good luck, enjoy, Frank

  13. avatar

    I also have a desert hairy, he moulted just before I got him and I’m just waiting for the next, I’ve been wondering should I keep a full water bowl in there or just fill it once a week?

  14. avatar
    gustavo camarena

    thank you!

  15. avatar

    My pleasure…pl let me know how all goes, Best, Frank

  16. avatar

    You can keep a bowl of water available; they technically do not need it but I find a bowl to be a useful safety measure; just be sure it is very shallow, easily exited (i.e. if scorpion is weakened prior to molting,it may have trouble moving about normally). Enjoy, best, Frank

  17. avatar
    gustavo camarena

    hello frank all seems to be going well he sheded most of the molt now and there is only a small fragment stuck on his tail but its in a place that it should not bother him because his stinger is free he has been eating very well and i have found allot of white spots on the tank i removed the cocoa fiber and placed new fiber (thinking it might be a fungus) and the spots are still there i heard scorpion poop is white so im not all that worried i saw some on his face today i whipped it off with a q tip……. my question is if it is a fungus and not poo what can i do to stop it?

  18. avatar

    Hi Gustavo,

    Good to hear..the old skin should come off in the next molt. Fungus spores are almost impossible to eliminate..arrive in the substrate, float in from the air, etc.; nothing to worry about. You may also find tiny mites moving about in the tank and sometimes on the scorpion…these too are generally harmless, pl see this article for more info, ‘

    Enjoy, pl keep me posted, Frank

  19. avatar

    thanks frank as always very helpfull and well one last thing for now i heard that the bigger the terrarium and the tipe of food and amount of it consumed has allot to do with how big my pet will grow is this true?

  20. avatar

    Hi,

    Glad the info was useful., Diet will affect growth rate, but ultimate size seems determined by species specific limitations; also, various populations differ within the range…some never get as large as others. terrarium size is important for health, breeding success, but seems not to affect size (no specific research re this, however, as far as I know).

    Enjoy, Frank

  21. avatar
    gustavo camarena

    thanks frank

  22. avatar

    My pleasure, pl let me know how all goes, Frank

  23. avatar
    gustavo camarena

    hello frank all has been going well my scorpion is fat and has been very slow lately, i know this is normal but to my surprise this morning i found what seems to be baby pin head crickets in his tank im not sure what to do with them or if in any way they can harm my scorpion while he molts should i remove them or are they no threat?

  24. avatar

    Hi Gustavo,

    Larger crickets may attack a molting scorpion, but pinheads that hatch from eggs deposited by adults shouldn’t be a problem. If want to remove them, place a bit of fish food flakes, orange or similar food in a jar and them empty periodically. Small white mites appear from time to time also, these are generally harmless, see here. Enjoy, Best, Frank

  25. avatar

    hello frank this morning my scorpion finifhed his molt however his sting is no longer there a white fluid has been leaking from where his sting usto be it looks allot like …well poo but im not sure what it is he moves his tail and everything but im not sure if he can survive much less grow back his sting what should i do if there is anything too do?

  26. avatar

    Hi Gustavo,

    Unfortunately there is not much that can be done. Minor tears can sometimes be sealed with various glues, but not a missing telson or stinger. Dr conditions can cause shedding problems, but they also occur for reasons we do not yet understand. Sorry I could not be of more help. best, Frank

  27. avatar

    well i put petroleum jelly to stop the bleeding i made sure the tank was moist and humid so the event from last time would not happen and he is up and around again hopefully thats a good sign i guess ill just let him be and see how things go thanks frank

  28. avatar

    I’m interested to hear how all goes; Petroleum is a good idea…I’ve not used for such a large injury but I think worth a try, good luck and pl keep me posted, Frank

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About Frank Indiviglio

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Being born with a deep interest in animals might seem unfortunate for a native Bronxite , but my family encouraged my interest and the menagerie that sprung from it. Jobs with pet stores and importers had me caring for a fantastic assortment of reptiles and amphibians. After a detour as a lawyer, I was hired as a Bronx Zoo animal keeper and was soon caring for gharials, goliath frogs, king cobras and everything in-between. Research has taken me in pursuit of anacondas, Orinoco crocodiles and other animals in locales ranging from Venezuela’s llanos to Tortuguero’s beaches. Now, after 20+ years with the Bronx Zoo, I am a consultant for several zoos and museums. I have spent time in Japan, and often exchange ideas with zoologists there. I have written books on salamanders, geckos and other “herps”, discussed reptile-keeping on television and presented papers at conferences. A Master’s Degree in biology has led to teaching opportunities. My work puts me in contact with thousands of hobbyists keeping an array of pets. Without fail, I have learned much from them and hope, dear readers, that you will be generous in sharing your thoughts on this blog and web site. For a complete biography of my experience click here.
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