The Russian or Horsefield’s Tortoise: an Ideal “First Tortoise”?
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Tortoises are among the most highly-desired of reptile pets, but their care is fraught with difficulties, and captive death rates remain surprisingly high. The plucky Russian, Horsefield’s or Central Asian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldi) is often promulgated as an ideal “first tortoise”.
A Cold Hearty Tortoise?
In many regards this is true. Unlike most of its relatives, the little Russian tortoise is quite cold hearty. Its range (three subspecies) extends from the southeastern coast of the Caspian Sea through Kazakhstan to western China and south to Iran, and encompasses some very cold regions. Tortoises living in the north may be active for a mere three months each year.
Living on Little
The Russian tortoise’s adaptation to a Spartan diet also suits it to captivity. Generally, it subsists upon dry grasses, with only limited access to flowers, herbaceous plants and fruits. Individuals in some populations rarely encounter standing water.
Size
Size also recommends the Russian tortoise as a pet…it tops out at 8.8 inches, and many are considerably smaller.
Nearly round in profile, the Russian tortoise is pleasantly colored in light to yellowish brown, and patterned with dark blotches.
Some Cautions
For all of the above reasons, it is a Russian tortoise that is often taken home by those new to tortoise-keeping. Unfortunately, thousands perish each year, often because their owners were initially supplied with misleading advice.
Space and Cage Style
Despite their small size, Russian tortoises are far more active than other reptiles…even the largest of glass aquariums is inadequate. You must think in terms of a 4-6’ x 4-6’ enclosure.
Glass aquariums, unless ventilated via fan, also do not provide sufficient air flow. As humidity rises, respiratory problems are a near certainty.
Ideally, these tortoises should be housed outdoors throughout the warmer months. Outdoor bird aviaries work well, although you may need to install an opaque, plastic barrier along the lower wall edge to prevent climbing. If you must keep your tortoise indoors, a custom-build enclosure is needed (please write in for details).
Environmental Conditions
Indoors or out, Russian tortoises require deep, dry substrates – grass and moist soil will not do. A mix of sandy soil and oyster shell is ideal. If unable to construct nighttime sleeping pallets (excavations), Russian tortoises become stressed and subject to dehydration-related disorders.
Pros and Cons
With proper care, the Russian tortoise can indeed be a most responsive and long-lived pet. However, they are by no means animals to be purchased lightly. Please consider your abilities carefully, and write in if you have any questions whatsoever.
I hesitate to discourage responsible people from keeping these fine animals…tortoises ranging from the tiny South African padloper to the massive giants of Aldabra and the Galapagos Islands have provided me with some of my most memorable herp-keeping experiences. Yet I hesitate to paint too rosy a picture. Please write in regarding your specific situation, and I’ll do my best to advise you appropriately.
The Russian tortoise owner must also take into consideration those other factors critical to the care of all tortoises – diet, UVA/UVB exposure, humidity levels, etc.. We’ll take a look at these and other subjects in future articles. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
Further Reading
Please check out A Complete Guide to Russian Tortoises in our Reptile Books Department.
An interesting article detailing the natural history of Russian tortoises in a harsh environment is published in the journal Ecography at
http://www.bio.usyd.edu.au/Shinelab/staff/xavier/ecography2003.pdf
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July 11th, 2009 at 1:12 am
Hello.
I am curious as to what is the ideal diet, of a Russian Desert Tortoise. I have heard many things from different sites or books on what to feed it, and what not to feed it. Each site and or book has its own ideas. I understand feeding it certain foods can give it certain problems. I am curious as to which foods do what, in regards to health, and damage.
July 11th, 2009 at 11:59 am
Hello Malik, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.There is indeed a great deal of conflicting information available as regards the feeding of tortoises. While there is some flexibility as concerns diet (i.e. based on local differences in produce availability), there are some general rules that should be followed, and, unfortunately, a good deal of misinformation finds its way onto the internet. Dietary requirements also differ greatly among the various tortoise species…for example, a diet which is ideal for a red-footed tortoise would be devastating to a Russian tortoise.
Horsefield’s or Russian tortoises have evolved to consume a diet that is high in fiber and calcium and low in protein and fat. In the wild, they feed almost exclusively on grasses, herbaceous plants and flowers, with fruit rarely available to most populations.
In captivity, commonly offered foods such as beans, and dog and cat food should be avoided; fruit is not necessary, although a very small amount each 10 days or so, during the summer only, is fine as a treat (berries, apple, pears).
In the summer, I use native grasses, weeds, flowers and plants for 75-85% of the diet of these and other grassland tortoises…in outdoor zoo exhibit this amount approaches 100%. The following are some native and introduced wild plants that can be used:
• Dandelion (Taraxacum officianale)
• Hawkbits (Leontodon spp.)
• Sowthistles (Sonchus spp.)
• Hawkweeds (Pictis spp.)
• Hawkbeards (Crepis spp.)
• Plantains (Plantago spp.)
• Clovers (Trifolium spp.)
• Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum)
• Cat's ears (Hypochoeris spp.)
• Vetches (Vicina spp.)
• Trefoils (Lotus spp.)
• Mallows (Malva spp.)
• Bindweeds (Calystegia spp.)
• Sedums (Sedum spp.)
• Ivy-leaved Toadflax (Cymbalaria muralis)
• Robinia (pseudo-acacia) leaves
• Wild clematis
• Acanthus
• Nettles
• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) leaves, stems and flowers.
• Red clover (Trifolium pratence) leaves, stems & flowers
• White clover (Trifolium repens) leaves, stems and flowers.
• Greater Plantain (Plantago media)
• Ribgrass or Ribwart Plantian (Plantago lancealata)
• Smooth Sow Thistle (Sonchus ol¬eraceus) leaves, stems & flowers
• Prickly Sow Thistle (Sonchus as¬per)
• White-Dead Nettle * (Lamilim al¬bum)
• Red-Dead Nettle (Lamium pupureum)
• Chickweed * (Stelaria media)
• Smooth hawks-beard (Crepis cap¬illoris) leaves & flower
• Hedge mustard (Sisymbrium offl¬cinale) young plants
• Bramble (Rubus fruticosus) shoots, eaves & fruit.
Please see my article on Toxic Plants for a list of species that may be potentially harmful to tortoises.
The balance of the diet is comprised of seasonally available greens such as kale, endive, dandelion, squash (small amounts) and romaine (chop up thick stems and add to the salad). Other greens can be added, but avoid spinach, bok choy and iceberg lettuce.
Zoo Med’s Grassland Tortoise Diet is specifically formulated for Russian and related tortoises, and can comprise up to 30% of the diet in winter or summer (hydrate it before using).
During the winter, their diet consists of 70-75% commercially available greens and 25-30% Zoo Med Grassland Tortoise Diet. Grated yams and carrot can be offered once weekly as a treat. Some native plants freeze well, and can be stored for winter use.
I add Reptocal to all meals provided to growing tortoises, and 3x weekly for adults. A cuttlebone is always available as well…not all tortoises will use this, but keep one in their enclosure just in case. Water should always be available, or the tortoises can be soaked on alternate days, during which time they will drink heavily.
Russian and other tortoises will not be able to properly metabolize calcium or digest other nutrients unless provided with a warm basking site and high levels of UVB (I suggest either the Zoo Med 10.0 bulb or a mercury vapor bulb).
Please let me know if you need further in formation.
Good luck, enjoy your tortoise and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
September 30th, 2009 at 4:36 pm
i have3year old horsefield can you tell me if i need any heat source at night has i keep him in shed and nights starting to get cold i use uv and basking lamp 12hrs by day
September 30th, 2009 at 6:04 pm
Hello Paul, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Please let me know what temperatures your tortoise will be exposed to…this would allow me to make a more specific recommendation. In general, healthy Horsefield’s tortoises are fine with a dip to 59-60 F at night, as long as they can warm up during the day. Some individuals will go off feed, however, as the seasons change. This is not a problem for animals in good weight (they should be offered water throughout the winter).
You can also allow the tortoise to hibernate, but this can be a bit tricky; I wouldn’t recommend it.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
November 14th, 2009 at 1:07 pm
Do you bathe the Russian Tortoise? How often?
November 14th, 2009 at 2:54 pm
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
It is a good idea to soak the tortoise once each week. Use 2-3 inches of warm water (the tortoise should be standing, not swimming) and leave it there for 20 minutes or so. This will encourage the tortoise to drink and to defecate.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.