That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information
As is true for tarantulas, reptile enthusiasts (myself included) are often interested in scorpions. Today I would like to provide an overview of these most ancient of animals (they were likely the first creatures to leave the sea for a terrestrial existence), with specifics concerning some readily available species to follow next time.
Please Note: All scorpions manufacture venom and are capable of delivering a painful sting. Human fatalities are rare but not unknown, and the venoms of many are relatively unstudied. Also, an allergic reaction is always possible…during my years at the Bronx Zoo I was often in contact with scorpion researchers….some reported relatively severe reactions from species not known to be dangerously venomous.
Unfortunately, the trade in scorpions is not well-regulated, and highly venomous species do appear from time to time (I’ll relate a personal experience in Part II of this article). Purchase scorpions only from reliable sources, and be sure you can identify the species you are considering. That being said, some of those best-suited to captivity are not dangerous, and make fascinating terrarium subjects. Please check the legalities of scorpion ownership before acquiring one, as such is regulated in some areas.
Do not grab scorpions by hand, despite what you may see others do. To move a scorpion, use a long handled stainless steel hemostat to gently grasp the telson (“tail”). A bit of foam rubber should be secured to the tips to prevent the scorpion from being injured.
Classification
Scorpions are classified in the order Scorpionidae, and, along with spiders, ticks and mites, in the Class Arachnida. Nearly 2,000 species have been described (as opposed to 40,000+ spiders), ranging in size from .3 to 8.5 inches in length. The 4 inch long Cetrruroides gracilis is the largest species in the USA, while the South African flat rock scorpion (Hadogenes troglodytes) is the world’s longest and heaviest.
Range and Habitat
Scorpions are found in tropical, sub-tropical and (less commonly) temperate regions of all continents except Antarctica, and are absent from New Zealand. Various species are adapted to live in deserts, open forests, grasslands, caves and rainforests. Some are quite at home around people, and may be found in overgrown fields, agricultural areas, gardens, parks and even within homes.
A surprising number thrive in quite cold climates, ranging as far north as Canada and southern Illinois in North America. A feral colony of a small African species, introduced in produce shipments, is established in southern England. In the USA, scorpions reach their greatest diversity in the southwest, where 60+ species may be found.
Diet
All are predacious, with most consuming soft-bodied insects but some specializing in land snails, sowbugs and other scorpions. Larger species may take frogs, lizards, shrews and other sizable animals on occasion.
Reproduction
All scorpions thus far studied give birth to live young, and a number are parthenogenic. Females typically carry the soft, relatively defenseless young on their backs for a time. Many species feed their offspring with shredded insects…in some the young are totally dependant upon their mothers for food and will perish if separated too quickly.
In contrast to most of their spider relatives, certain species, including the popularly kept emperor scorpion, are quite social and may be housed in colonies.
Venom
Scorpion venoms are not well-studied, but thought to be quite complex. Some that have been analyzed have yielded compounds with potential medicinal value. Most seem to be neurotoxic in nature, but cytotoxic varieties are known as well.
The larger scorpion species are generally not dangerous to people, while some of the very small ones have caused fatalities. Most of the 25-30 species thought to be capable of delivering serious stings are classified within the Genera Centruroides, Androctonus and Tityus. However, as we have limited knowledge of scorpions in general, all should be treated with caution. As mentioned, the possibility of allergic reactions to even weak venoms is always a possibility. In all cases, small, straw-colored scorpions from the Middle East and North Africa should be avoided.
Scorpions in Captivity
At least 15 species are well-established in captive breeding populations, and many others are regularly available. Fortunately, one of the largest and most interesting, the emperor scorpion, is also quite benign. It lives well in groups, and females are surprisingly attentive to their young. Next time I’ll write about the care of this and other popular species.
A short introduction to scorpion ecology, along with a diagram of their body parts and photos of common species of the American Southwest, is posted at:
http://wc.pima.edu/~bfiero/tucsonecology/animals/arth_scorpions.htm
How long after birth are the babies ready to be seperated from their mothers.
Hi Stryphe. Frank is currently unavailable due to emergency surgury. He should be back towards the end of this week, or the beginning of next, to provide you with an answer. Sorry for the delay!
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog. I apologize for the long delay in responding to you…an emergency surgery put me out of commission for a time.
Actually, in a large terrarium the young can be raised to adulthood with the female. It is very interesting to watch her feed them and then urge them towards independence. You may lose 1-2 to cannibalism, more if the female is stressed, however.
If you wish to remove them, wait until the young remain off her back and are hunting on their own. This time period varies greatly among different individuals.
Good luck and please keep me posted,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
thankyou.
Canabalism?
She seems to be very helpful to them. I even watched the father pull one off the aquarium wall and put the baby on his other claw. The father then held the baby on his back for 2 days until the mother took it off. I will watch for it though, anything is possible. I try to keep the cage full of crickets now that the babies are there.
Hello Stryphene, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.
Thanks so much for writing in with that interesting observation…not much at all is written on the male’s role in rearing the young; I don’t believe I’ve ever read of the behavior you describe. I’ll keep your information with my notes on this species.
Some females are prone to cannibalism, and in most cases it seems stress rather than food-related. However, I have observed what seem to be “feeding accidents”, in which a female grabs a youngster who happened to be amidst a group of crickets; fortunately, it does not become a “habit”! Keeping them well fed, and with small insects available for the young, is, as you mention, a good idea.
Good luck and please keep me posted on your progress and observations when time permits.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Cannabalism is more a possibility now, I had 14 and now they are down to 10. They are still on the mothers back though.
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.
Losing 4 youngsters is not all that unusual, but I would say if another animal or two goes missing then you probably should split the group. In the meanwhile, be sure that the mother has a secure retreat and disturb her as little as possible – observe her when she is out and about on her own rather than looking for her, do not turn tank light on in an otherwise dark room and so on.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
thankyou, that explains alot and will be helpful.
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. My pleasure…thanks for the feedback
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
We purchased an emperor scorpion about 8 months ago, and surprise, she had 6 babies today. About two hours later, she had eaten three of them. We panicked, and took them out of the enclosure with her, and put them into a little plastic enclosure with a lid inside her tank so they would stay warm. We got her plenty of crickets, but she is really upset now, and we are wondering if it would be safe to re-introduce them to her? Will she recognize them and begin caring for them again? It has only been a few hours, and we would like for the remaining three to survive, although they were a surprise.
Hello Charity, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Although it’s preferable to have the female raise the young, you did the right thing in removing them in this case, as she would likely have consumed the others in time. Usually such is a stress response…please write back with some information as to how you have the terrarium arranged – she may have needed a deeper burrow, or more space. Many females take an occasional youngster in the course of feeding on crickets, but some seem bent on eating the whole clutch.
I suggest that you keep the young separated – reintroducing them at this point would not be a good idea, as the female’s stress level is elevated due to all that has transpired. Watch for more young, as they are not always born together, and stress can delay the arrival of the rest of the clutch. There is some evidence that emperor scorpions retain sperm, so she may give birth again in the future.
The young will not feed until they molt and darken in color. Until then, give them plenty of hiding spots and be sure to mist them regularly – they are a bit more prone to desiccation than are adults. Some young feed readily on their own (start with ¼ – ½ inch crickets); if not, try crushing a cricket and offering it to them via feeding tongs.
Good luck and please write back with some details concerning your terrarium – substrate type/depth, other cover, location of tank, etc.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi , i have recently bought a emperor scorpion, no longer than 3 days ago, and it may seem a bit too early to worry but i have a few queries. It hasnt eaten yet, every night i put in 2 crickets (2 just to make he can find one) and despite this, when i wake up both the crickets are still about in the terranium. Then i pick up the crickets and put them back in the cricket keeper so they can eat and stuff, the next night i repeated my actions, i put another 2 crickets in…and … next morning – still 2 jumpy little crickets. Now to start i wasnt really worried, but i still thought i should investigate, i have noticed that one of his mouthy bits (chalicerae?, if thats the correct terminology) looks a bit disfigured, or slightly off axis to the other, im not sure enough to say its damaged because this is my first scorpion and my experience is poor.
Hello Wesley, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog and for taking the trouble to research your scorpion’s needs.
Scorpions are surprisingly aware of their surroundings, and are easily upset by changes in their environment, shipping to a new location, etc. I’ve had a number of reports of animals expiring while in transit, even when packed properly.
The animal may just need time to adjust. However, the environment that it is being kept in will greatly influence how well it does, and indeed its very survival. Please tell me a bit more about the terrarium – tank size, substrate depth, hiding places, temperature (especially at night), humidity and so on, so that we can rule out any possible problems.
The mouthparts are known as chelicerae in arachnids (in spiders, these would be the fangs and associated structures). They are a bit complicated in structure, so it’s not always easy to determine if there is a problem. Such is not common, however, and a healthy scorpion will usually try to eat despite a malformation.
I look forward to hearing more about your terrarium and scorpion,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
I have measured my tank its 17 inch x 11 inch and is 8 inches tall. when i brought the scorpion the shop staff mentioned it was 6-8 months old , and the scorpion seems no longer than 3 inches in size. They said it would be a suitable size tank, but i would like to hear your opinion. As for substrate e.t.c i have got a mixture of Peat/soil and some bark, all of this substrate has been brought from the shop aswell. fo hides i have 1 piece of cork bark in the warm side of the tank with a bit of a self made burro under it , which seems to be the scorpions favourite plce so far , and i also have a similiar hide in the the cool end with a bit of plastic leaves/vines for decoration.
The temperature of the tank is seeming to stay just above 27 degrees celsius, for heating im using a basic heatmat, and at night i turn on the night glow bulb just to watch him. Having both heat mat and lamp on at the same time surprisingly doesnt make much of a difference to the temperature, bumps the temp up to about 28 degrees, so it does become warmer. As for humidty its hard to describe but i have done my best to make it moist, and have made sure its not wet at the same time.
And as for a quick update on the welfare of the scorpion, i havnt tried to handle him , though i do want have a better look at his chalicerae, ican really get a god look at it , but it seems the one is underneath the other. Best way to describe it is probably , put yours hands out in front of you and then put one hand directly on top of the other. thats what it looks like to me.
Hello Wesley, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.
It seems you are providing the scorpion with a favorable environment. The tank size is fine – at only 8 inches in height it might be a little disturbing to him when the top is opened (scorpions are equipped with unique hairs that sense minute changes in air movement, and so are very sensitive to any change in air pressure) so do not open the top unnecessarily.
Emperor scorpions do not always burrow deeply – the shelter you describe is typical, but providing 4-5 inches of substrate, just in case, is a good idea. Temperatures of 27-28 C are fine; just be sure that the mat is heating the air as well as the substrate.
I wouldn’t suggest handling the scorpion…their venom is not considered dangerous to healthy adults, but there is always a chance of an individual sensitivity, and such would stress the animal as well (“such” meaning the handling…stinging you might not be very stressful to the scorpion at all!). In any event, there is nothing that could be done for mis-aligned chelicerae. Such things sometimes sort themselves out during a molt.
I neglected to mention last time – some but not all scorpions cease feeding just before molting, and remain hidden in moist retreats for long periods of time. You may want to give the terrarium an extra misting at night, just in case, as dry conditions inhibit molting. At 3 inches in size, your scorpion may molt quite frequently.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Yeah i have considered that the scorpion might be starting to molt, he has rarely come out of his hide, even at night. as i mentioned earlier it is probably too early for me to worry , thanks for all the useful information it has been re-assuring. i will continue to closely monitor him and get back to you within another 3 days or so.
if it is molting what actions do you reccomend i take, if any?
Hello Wesley, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks…yes, please let me know how it goes.
If it is molting, just keep disturbances to a minimum…causing the animal to move about before the exoskeleton has hardened may result I an injury – and keep the humidity high.
If the tank tends to dry out at night, you can cover ½ to ¾ of the screening with plastic. Airflow is important in general, but a few nights of reduced ventilation are not a concern.
I’ve never run into a problem with crickets attacking newly-molted scorpions, as happens with spiders and mantids at times, but to be on the safe side perhaps you might withhold food for a few days – starvation is almost never a concern with scorpions – they seem able to adjust their metabolisms to the food supply.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi, Jo here…
I have a wild-caught Hadogenes troglodytes that I think may be moulting, but I’m not entirely sure. I read the above posts regarding Wesley’s Emperor Scorpion, and the “symptoms” of mine are quite similar: Mis-aligned chelicerae, lack of much movement and not eating. I’ve kept these scorpions for a long time, and this is the first time I’ve ever had one moult on me. Is there any recommended action I should take other than keeping the humidity high? I don’t think that the scorpion has reached maturity, as it is only 14cm long, so moulting is a possibility… Please let me know if there is anything specific I can do, or if that specific species needs to be treated differently.
Regards and thanks
Jo
Hello Jo, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Raising the humidity is, unfortunately, all that you can do to help – works for all species to some extent. If the animal starts and still cannot finish, you can relocate it into a smaller container, so that it is easier to keep moist – I prefer to leave in place, however, if possible. Make sure it is in an area where there is enough room to get out of the old skin, i.e. w/o interference from a cave wall or such.
We know less about these, as regards disease, than Emperors, and little them; I keep in touch with vets who have an interest in scorpions, but as of now there are no real treatment options.
Sorry I do not have better news,
Good luck and please keep me posted; it would be helpful to hear how all turns out,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Frank
Thanks for your prompt response. I noticed earlier that a part of her body within the exoskeleton seems to be slightly swollen or out of shape. Could that be due to the body within the old skin beginning to move out?
Thanks again
Jo
Hello Jo, Frank Indiviglio here.
Yes, the swelling can be due to what you describe. If so, the old exoskeleton should split. Unfortunately, swelling can also be due to fluid build up from organ failure or gasses produced by bacterial infection. Watching carefully, as you are, and taking notes, will be very useful, as often such details go unnoticed and we lose the opportunity to learn.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi again
Unfortunately, even with my best efforts, the H tryoglodytes that I mentioned in earlier posts has died. I’m not 100% sure why, but will carry out an autopsy later to try and determine the C.O.D. Thank you for your assistance, Frank. Its a pity that it was to no avail.
If I come up with a diagnosis, I will be sure to let you know.
Ragards and thanks
Jo
Hello Jo, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update and sorry for the news. Good idea to take a look – recording anything that you notice, drawings of parasites etc. will be very useful. As more people do this, the pieces will fall into place.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best wishes for a happy and healthy new year, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Frank, Jo again
One of my remaining H troglodytes was moving around very slowly on friday 2 weeks ago (29 Jan). I checked up on her (big female) a few hours later, and noticed that she had three grubby things on her back. Closer inspection revealed them to be babies!
She had a total of four babies over that weekend, and then another sixteen during the wek, bringing the total up to twenty. She now has twenty-three, and they’re still coming.
How many babies can I expect her to end up with, and do I care for them? Also, is it reasonably common for a big scorpion to give birth in captivity?
I took lots of photos, and I’m trying to document everything as well as possible.
Regards
Jo
Hello Jo, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback…great news. Hodogenys is less commonly kept than most others…anything you can document concerning its reproduction would be very interesting and useful.
The litter should be complete by now…actually 2 weeks seems a bit long; but scorpions can control birth somewhat, i.e. if conditions change I the environment so really no set rules. They will not feed until their first molt – after that watch to see if the female tries to feed them with shredded crickets (I don’t believe this has definitely been recorded, but just in case….).
Disturb her as little as possible, as stress may lead to cannibalism; once they molt, add extra cover – as they leave her back she may catch and consume them…co-existence is also possible, however. This varies by scorpion and also environment – stress always causes problems. The young will take ¼ inch crickets once they begin moving about – they are not good hunters so keep an eye on them and them lots of cover sp they can stay away from one another if need be. They will molt frequently, so don’t load the tank up with crickets overnight (when they usually molt) as crickets can attack soft scorpions.
Once the young are off the female, it is best to separate them..some species do better when kept together (Emperors) but this has not been shown with Flat rocks.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
good day sir i just to know how to determine male and female on black forest scorpions????? and do they gave birth without mate? tnx
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thank you for your interest in our blog.
Females are longer and stouter than males when mature, but this is subjective and adult size varies among different populations. There are slight differences in the shape of the genital openings. Please have a look at my article Breeding Emperor Scorpions, which has a link to drawings of the undersides of males and females.
Females of many species, including the Black Forest, can store sperm for moths or perhaps even years; they can also “postpone” delivering the young id conditions are not ideal (stress, dry weather, etc.). I don’t believe that parthenogenesis – giving birth without having mated – has been definitely documented, but I would not be at all surprised. A great many creatures, including lizards, sharks and insects, are being found capable of this.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
tnx for ur rply,,,, so they need a mate before they give birth?????? and i want to know what maybe the age of my scorpion,,,,,,, its about 4inc long,,,,
Hello Russel, Frank Indiviglio here.
You’re very welcome….
As far as we know, scorpions need to mate but many species can store sperm and give birth long after mating. I wouldn’t be surprised if we eventually discover that females can give birth without mating in some circumstances – many insects, fishes and even lizards and snakes can do so. Scorpions didn’t survive for 70+ million years w/o picking up a few tricks!
Unfortunately, no way to estimate age based on size, as size varies among different populations and is also strongly influenced by type/volume of diet and temperature.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
tnx a lot,,, more power,,,,,
Hello Russel,
Thanks, enjoy your scorpion and please check in and let me know how all is going,
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Frank Indiviglio,
Last night one of my three female Emperor’s started giving birth. She had six then and two more today. I was wondering when I should start feeding her again so the babies get food. Should it be after the first molt?
Hello Jonathan, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and congrats!
The youngsters will not eat until after their first molt, but the female may eat before that time. You can try feeding her, but remove the cricket or other insect if she does not take in her usual time frame.
Other adults sometimes stress females with young – if yours seems agitated, or eats any of her youngsters, it would be wise to remove the other adults. In any event, try not to disturb her or the terrarium.
Good luck, enjoy, and please keep me posted on their progress.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello again Frank,
Thank you for the fast response.
I removed the male and other two females as soon as I seen she was giving birth. I was worried about trying to feed her, cause I thought that maybe the cricket would stress her out. Trying to not have her eat any.
She was up to ten babies this morning before I went to work and looks like she has more on her back. But cant count them cause shes in her burrow.
Thanks, Jonathan.
Hello Jonathan,
Thanks for the update…good thinking in removing the others and providing a burrow in which she can get out of sight, that is often critical.
A single cricket might be worth trying, females expend a great deal of energy producing such large clutches; but, as you say, avoiding stress is important as well…need to watch carefully, individuals vary greatly. Be sure to take notes, as we still have much to learn, and please let me know how it goes,
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Frank, Jonathan here.
Well she is still in her burrow, popping out babes. She had ten when she went in mid day yesterday and has’nt come out yet, that I’ve seen. Shes at least had five or six more since, so she might be up to around 15-16. Can’t wait for her to come out so I can try to get an exact count.
I was also wondering how long does it usually take for the young to molt for the first time.
Thanks, Jonathan.
Hello Jonathan,
Glad to hear all is still going well. Shaping up to be a large litter, so be sure to try feeding her once she seems finished.
First molt is usually at about 10 – 14 days, but this varies quite a bit.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
Hello Frank,
Well she finally came out today, and had no problems feeding her from tongs.
Also got an exact count on the young, total 14.
I was also wondering what your thoughts were on false bottoms, and how well they keep the humidity up. Seen what you wrote about the 55 gal setup you made and was wanting to do something simular. As of right now I have a 40 gal with just 4 inches of coconut bark. It was suppose to be temporary substrate untill I got everything for the false bottom. But she gave birth before I got everthing.
Hello Jonathan,
Thanks for the update and good news…very promising that she is tong-feeding.
False bottoms work well with gravel as a top layer – less so with coconut bark, soil etc. as the water is largely sealed off from the air, but it may help somewhat. Its best to have a way to clean out the lower layer of water – we use holes cut into the glass in zoos, but this is hard to arrange unless you have a skilled glasscutter on hand. If you use an undergravel filter-plate above the water, you can uncap the hole where the tubes would go (or leave a short piece of tube in place, to keep it accessible, and siphon the water out. Usually with scorpions its easier to spray, provide moss-filled retreats, etc., however.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted as to how things progress,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Frank,
Bad news with the tank. Noticed about an hour ago, a white spec on the glass. It was moving, started looking around the substrate and seen hundreds of mites.
What should I do ?
And is this a common problem with coconut bark ?
I havent had the tank that long, maybe a week before she gave birth. And I’ve been taking out left over cricket remains from the tank. I removed half the substrate from the side shes not on. And boiled it in water to kill anything in it.
But im worried about the mother and her young.
Hello Jonathan,
These mites are almost impossible to keep out of scorpion terrariums and in almost all cases they are harmless. It would be safer not to leave them and not to disturb the terrarium while the female has young, as this often leads to cannibalism, abandoning the clutch, etc. No matter how well you clean the terrarium, there will usually be enough organic matter to support these mites – those seen on the scorpions are not parasitizing them, just “cleaning” their exoskeletons…please check my article on Mites in Arachnid Terrariums and write back if you would like more info.
You can try luring them into a small jar with a bit of moist fish food flakes or a dead cricket…this will knock down the numbers for a time, but its not critical.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Frank,
Just got home from work and seen that three of the young have either crawled off her, or fell off, and she keeps pushing them in the substrate if they move. Not attacking them, atleast not yet. Is this normal, or part of them molting the first time?
Hello, Jonathan,
It’s a tough call, and a gamble no matter what you do, as females vary so much in their behavior towards young. It could be molting behavior, and she is just reacting to the new stimulus. I would leave them in place – it’s not uncommon for even well-adjusted females to consume a few young, removing them or interfering with her actions towards them might be more risky; young are easily injured in pre-molting state, but sometimes survive if moved afterwards, may need tong feeding, however.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Frank,
Well have bad news. Woke up this morning to her in the corner of the terrarium, and the young piled in front of the burrow. Six of them were dead so I removed them, and turn seven live ones over on there feet. One was still over next to her, so I left it. Came back later to see that two more had died, not sure if they are starving or maybe it was from internal wounds. And She was over in a different corner and the one with her was missing, guessing she ate it cause I couldnt find it. So I removed the five that remain, and am wondering how I should try and feed them.
Hello Jonathan,.
Sorry for the bad news. Hard to pin it down, but many dying at once could be related to environment, i.e. low humidity, or perhaps hunger as you suggest. I wish we new more about these guys, common as they are we have much to learn.
Keep the survivors in a small terrarium, so that they can find food easily. ¼ inch crickets should work; pinch off some legs until the young are stronger and better hunters. You may need to try tong-feeding – crush a cricket and use the tongs to push it right up against the mouth area. I usually don’t recommend covering terrariums with plastic etc to raise humidity, but would be ok for awhile if its very dry where you are. Some folkds have raised them individually, in small plastic butter-tub sized containers; perhaps try one like this as well.
Good luck, keep at it, and please keep me posted.
Hello Frank,
Thanks for the info, will try to feed them the 1/4 crickets.
The humidity in the terrarium has been at 77-85%.
It was just that the mother started grabbing them in her claws, stepping on them, and smashing them around in the substrate before she finally shoved them all out of the burrow.
Just feel bad, I should have got them away from her earlier, just didn’t know if she was trying to get them to molt.
Hello Jonathan,
Thanks for the feedback…I didn’t realize that you had seen her attacking them, sorry. Humidity levels are fine. I’ve raised broods to near-adulthood with the female present, while in other situations have run into same problem as you did.
You did everything right, no real way to know when/if to split them, other than when a problem becomes evident. I’m in touch with someone who works with several species in a public collection, and will pass along anything new that turns up.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Frank,
Well I want to thank you for all the help.
Not sure if I did anything wrong, tried the crickets. Also tried mashed up mealworms, and waxworms and couldnt get them to really eat any of it. They just slowly started to die. Was down to one left, and really thought it might make it cause it was eating a little. But got home today from work to find it barely alive.
Kind of sad, you would think that they would eat like crazy if they were starving. Just wish I could of raised at least one of them.
Thank you again for the help.
Hello Jonathan,
Thanks for writing back…sorry it worked out that way. However, you did everything possible – it really goes much better when the female adjusts and stays with the young. This could be her first brood; perhaps after she settles in you may be able to try pairing her up and giving it another try.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Greetings
Please advise
I have rescued an abandoned scorpion from a friend the little guy was clearly neglected. and need some advise. My friend told me it was some rock scorpion specie so not sure on what he/she is exactly.
It is black and its pincers and tail look very much in preportion to each other.
I have acquired a fish tank quite large, a heating pad florescent light bulb, and a night lamp.
Filling the tank with some desert sand and placing the heat pad under the sand , i have also placed a shallow water dish for the little guy that keep adding water to daily or when dry. He also has a rock in their that he made a nice borrow under in the corner of the tank.
After 2 days (i was concerned) my little pet started to feed (small crickets) he now is eating at almost 1 a day.
My worries are:
1) im concerned he is going to get lazy as he doesn’t hunt for the crickets as the cricket looks for shelter it crawls in to his nest and he is like ohhhhh free delivery thank you.
2) i dont see him coming out
3) im concerned that he is not multing as aparently he is close to a month and sill very small i would say 5 cm.
PLEASE ADVISE
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Sand is fine for some, but Emperor Scorpions need a moister environment (soil/peat/moss). For now, spray the tank lightly with water once daily. Please check this photo gallery under the Latin names of the common species mentioned in my article, as I’ll need to what species you have in order to provide detailed info; you might try contacting the original seller as well.
Please also let me know you day and night temperatures. Don’t be concerned about food intake – they have very slow metabolisms and intake depends on temperature, humidity, etc. Scorpions are nocturnal, but even at night will stay hidden if not hungry or it is too dry or too cool.
Molting is dependent upon temperature, humidity, health, age and diet, so no need be concerned until we figure out the other details.
I look forward to hearing from you with further details,
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Frank
Some updates:
Its very hard for me to tell witch spicie it is as he is still small and i ant realty compare on the pics, can i take a photo of it and perhaps you can advise ?
Also I am situated in South Africa (maybee that could help a tad)
I recently added some sand for him so he can borrow more especial if he grows took out the small stone and put in a half log rock formation. He seems to have gotten more use to the environment, alot more aggressive and actually hunts the crickets in the log (though still have not t seen him come out yet.
I will be able to tell you the temperature readings and humidity when i get the thermometer that can monitor both of these. at the moment i would say its around 23 c or so with slightly cooler during the night, Humidity.. i have no clue but will spray some mist in the tank today just to make sure some moisture in the air will have a pic today and will post a link for you ASAP Thanks for the help so far !
Hello Anton, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Sounds like it’s settling in fine – they are very aware of their surroundings, and so need to adjust. Most can take it a bit warmer, up to 25-26 C, but 23 fine if it’s feeding; a dip at night is good. Spray as you are doing and leave a shallow water bowl as well.
If native species are sold there, than it is likely the African Rock Scorpion; you can send a photo to findiviglio@thatpetplace.com. However, when sending you the photo site I had forgotten that it was a young animal – they are hard to ID by sight alone, so perhaps better to wait until it grows a bit.
Night viewing bulbs may help you observe the scorpion after dark.
Please be aware that potentially dangerous species find their way into the trade; also, people can be very sensitive to the venom of even “harmless” species, so do not handle the scorpion at all. Use a long-handled tongs to nudge it into a container when need be.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Frank ! thanks for the info so far you becoming my new best friend 🙂
I have started to spray the tank with some water and do fill the dish with water everyday . I finding the little guy ALOT more agresive and jumpy especial when their crickets (he is fast he he he he) also feeding him when the night bulb is on to simulate day and night patterns like you recommended as well. Question:
Sometimes he pics his tail up and shakes it like a rattle snake what dose that mean ? Im still consecrated about the molting though as we don’t really know what spices it is so i don’t kno whow to make his environment. (temperature and humidity)
Hello Anton, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words, glad you are enjoying.
The tail (called “telson” in scorpions) shaking is likely a threat display, draws attention to the stinger. They may do this when feeding also, perhaps as a precaution in case a predator is near while the scorpion is occupied with feeding.
Don’t worry at all about molting, varies so much, difficult to generalize. Leave the scorpion alone if it does not come out for a day or 2, and spray a little more frequently at that time, in case it is shedding.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Great thank you.
Frank, i have a half log for him and one of the entrances is near the glass so i can constantly look at him is that a bad idea ? also the area he is in is much more spacious then him self, (dosnt’ look cosy) is that a problem ?
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. It’s actually an old zoo trick to locate hideaways near the glass, so you hit on a good technique. It’s usually not a problem unless the animal becomes nervous, doesn’t feed etc. You can tape a piece of black paper or cardboard over the glass and just lift to look if you prefer.
“cosy” – good observation; many invertebrates do not feel secure unless in contact with the top and sides of their shelter. However, I have seen scorpions use quite large caves without ill effect, so I believe you can leave as is.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Sorry to bother you again Frank.
My Pet is eating once a day.. is that normal ? should i reduce the feedings to 1 /2d or will he not eat if he not hungry ?
the crickets size is about 1/3 of his and he loves them
Another question i was told that i could calcium coat the crickets for him to get more calcium in to his system is that wise ?
Hello Anton, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your feedback; please don’t hesitate to write in as much as you’d like – you are asking all the right questions, and other readers are also benefitting I’m sure.
They do tend to eat more when young and kept warm; perhaps skip 1-2 days each week, and cut back when it slows down on its own. Scorpions can adjust their metabolisms to food availability, so no need to be too concerned.
We don’t know much about their calcium needs, but I’ve never had to coat crickets. Better to offer some variety – waxworms if sold locally, or small moths, earthworms and other soft-bodied invertebrates you can collect in areas that are not sprayed with pesticides.
It’s always good to feed your crickets a nutritious diet for a day or 2 in order improve their quality. Please see my article on Cricket Care for more info. In addition to the products mentioned there, you can grind calcium powder and tropical fish flakes together and use that as cricket food.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Good day ! good news !
My little bug molted this weekend, he looks double the size to me.
I have once again changed his habitat as he looks more happy making his own hole under a rock rather then getting in to one.
The moment he made his new den he molted im a proud daddy.
I have disided not to feed him for 2 days just so he is more comfortable in his NEW skin. An interesting observation i have never seen him drink beforr. he drank quite a bit befor he started molting and witnesed his molting was awsome ! .
How often should i clean the tank ?
Hello Anton, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback; very happy to hear that all went well. You’re very fortunate in having been able to observe him molting. Nice observation concerning the drinking also – keep it up, we have a lot to learn.
Good idea not to feed at first – this will give the exoskeleton a chance to harden-up.
Scorpions seem to have very effective digestive systems, and utilize most of what they eat. Droppings are dry and very small. You can scrape off the top layer of substrate every 2-3 weeks, or spot clean as needed.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello again,
We aare now down to 5 scorplings… the two that were born the second day were eaten…we think possibly because she had trouble getting them back on her back & possibly hurt them in the process. It has been a week and we still have the five scorplings. They all fell off of her back today and some were on their backs laying still but alive. We flipped the ones over that were on their backs… could that have harmed them? They all seem to be in an inanimate state right now… The mother is watching over them & still quite protective though. We have not observed them molt yet or see any skins or anything to make us believe they have molted. Perhaps they have & we somehow missed that? We dont know if our humidity is correct what can we do to ensure that it is our bedding is saturated as well as the sponges that they drink out of we have a heat pad & a night viewing heat bulb that we keep on at all times. When are they suppossed to molt? How long before they are overdue for molting? They were born last Saturday & just fell off her this morning.
Sincerly,
first time scorpion grandparents: Sarah & Brett
Hello Sarah and Brett, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback.
Best to leave them alone as much as possible – they may have just shed, and are hardening up, or are preparing to shed (they remain largely immobile at both times). They are on schedule for a first molt right about now, but this can vary quite a bit, from 1 week to 3 weeks, possibly more. Not much you can do other than to remove them if the female consumes any more. Try feeding her as well, and check around for a source of pinhead or 10-day-old crickets, which you’ll need for the youngsters. Best to keep terrarium on the damp side, as you are doing, as young are prone to desiccation.
Heat pads tend to dry out the substrate without really warming the air, so keep an eye on that.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
fyi they are emperor scorplings… 🙂
Just wanted to say thank you for the informative & quick replies! We really want our emperor scorpions to be happy & healthy. They are just fascinating! However, our families think we are strange because we think the scorplings are so cute! The mother keeps picking the babies up & looking them over then setting them down she also keeps trampling them… Is this going to hurt them? We think this may be how they are getting flipped over on their backs. We think she may be a first time mother hence the small brood of 7 scorplings. We have had difficulty getting Sting (the mother) to eat but managed to get her to eat a cricket earlier this week (that’s when she decided to eat the 2 small babies) & she pushed food away since then. We were a bit concerned she would eat more babies if she ate again. We did get her to eat again tonight. Again thank you & we will keep you posted on the outcome!
Hello Sarah and Brett, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated. They certainly are fascinating, and of course I know how odd folks such as we can appear to “the others” – no mind, just enjoy and learn!
Its hard to generalize – for such ancient and “primitive” creatures (they are among the oldest unchanged organisms alive today), scorpions are very complex in their behaviors; no 2 females act the same when bearing young, and so its hard to generalize. Please keep an eye out for my upcoming article on invertebrate personalities, based on a new study just published.
It think it would be best to leave them together – she may feed them, but try adding some tiny crickets as well. Feeding the mother is always tricky, as she sometimes “keeps going” and starts on the young. But best to feed, as she’ll eat them in nay event if she becomes too hungry. Try having a second cricket on hand, in case she remains hungry after the first.
“Handling”: and trampling by the female is common, usually results in no harm.
Thanks for keeping me informed,
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Frank
Just wante to say thanks for all the advise my litle Bug has shed once more and i got to witness it again he almost looks like he double sin size with every shedding.
Is their any way i can tell what sex it is by the skin thats ben dropped ?
Hello Anton, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much for the update, I’m happy to hear all is going well.
It’s not possible to determine the sex until the scorpion is fully grown; I can forward photos at that time which will be helpful (you’ll need to put the animal in a plastic box, and view from below). Adult females are also larger and stouter than males, but there is a good deal of variation among individuals.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi there
I have a group of 2.8 colony of emporer scorpions in 40 breeder tank with 6 in of soil/peat moss. So far so good. My question is , what’s the best way to feed such a large group? Free roaming prey? In a dish? Or are they scavengers so maybe smashed crickets and dubia roaches ? Any tips or help is much appreciate thanks
Hi Reggie,
There are a few approaches that can work. They need relatively little food, so you can experiment with free-roaming prey. Observing them via red/black light, after dark, will give you an idea of how all is going. However, you don;t want to have too many crickets/roaches left over and living in tank, as they may attack newly-molted scorpions. Tong feeding is an option, but difficult in groups, esp. where burrows are established. Mealworms, waxworms etc can be put in sunken bowls, but roaches, crickets usually escape unless a few legs are removed. Please let me know if you need more info, and please keep me posted – interesting to hear how groups function, given their social behavior. Best, Frank
Hi there
I’m curious to why the price have gone up on these socrpions ,ie. a few years ago $5 , currently $20. I know these have been on CITES2 for many years. Has CITES tighten up their exporting quota ?
Hi Reggie,
One importer I spoke with awhile back believed that less animals were coming in; CITES II designation does not impose restrictions, more of a “watch list”, but it could affect exporting countries by making them take a closer look at how they are managing wild populations (i.e. to forestall stricter regs). Could also be that over-collection has depleted local populations, as been suggested by some. Captive breeding is much more common today, but I’m not sure how that affects price at this point.
Best, Frank
Hi Frank,
First let me thank you most sincerely for the authentic care and concern you continuously demonstrate for us guardians and our little friends. It is rare to find someone so well versed in this hobby who takes the time to quell our fears and answer our sometimes “duh, is the tv plugged in” type questions 🙂
Now, I’M PANICKING!!! I rescued three Emps, one a large obviously adult female and two smaller Emps, one male and not sure of the other’s sex, some 4 months ago. None of them, well of course not the adult female but most def not the juveniles, have molted yet! 🙁 The temp in their 20 long tank is kept at about 90f during the day and down to 75-80 at night via a 75 watt ir bulb during day and 50watt moonlight (blue) bulb at night, (is this too hot? should I keep it at 85 during the day and no heat at night?) and in an attempt to keep humidity up to 85-90% or so had moistened the soil (exo-terra coconut fiber substrate) and spritzed it so much that it began to rot I think because it began giving off a sulphuric odor which was probably bacteria. I replaced the substrate (about 6 inches deep) and am keeping it moistened only with spritzes and overflowed water dish. The temp is a steady 85 and humidity at around 80 but still none have molted. Also, one of the darings seems to have “shrunk” since its rescue, in that it was pretty fat and now is not. Also looks “dry” and not glossy. Have I damaged my friends in my ignorance somehow? I joined “arachnoboards” and the “scorpion forum” blogs but found such differing opinions I am lost and very glad I found your site. Their eating habits vary, and with three in a tank and three hides available and two shallow water dishes and some silk plants to hide in, it’s hard to say who gets what but I keep the crickets at a number of about 7 per week and look for dead ones to clean out but never find any. If the normal count gets low I simply toss in some more. Please help me keep these little ones in good and happy health. Thank you so much,
Kelly, Klaus, Lillith, and Brunhilda 🙂
Hello,
Thanks for the kind words and Sorry for the delay….your post slipped past me somehow. Your conditions sound fine; there’s no set schedule for molting, depends on many factors, and they generally consume the old exoskeleton so you’ll not likely find any. Feeding in groups is always difficult, but when in good health they find what they need…food requirements very low, although they will also gorge if able. had to ‘starve” them, however. Losing size etc can be due to disease, parasites but we know little about diagnosis and care, unfortunately. Good idea to provide a cave stocked with some damp sphagnum moss..this hold moisture well, so that a humiid retreat will always be available. Enjoy,. frank