The Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis carolinensis) in the Wild and Captivity – Care in Captivity Part 2
Click: The Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis carolinensis) in the Wild and Captivity - Care in Captivity Part I, to read the first part of this article.
Light, Heat and Humidity
Green anoles rarely live for long if maintained without full spectrum lighting. If a florescent bulb is used, be sure that all animals can bask within 12 inches of it (within 20 inches of the Zoo Med 10.0 UVB Bulb). These lizards are completely diurnal and most active in bright sun, and UVA and UVB are essential if they are to thrive and reproduce. Horizontal and diagonal branches are preferred over vertical perches as basking sites.
Zoo Med's High Output 10.0 Florescent Bulb is a fine source of UVB light for green anoles. The Zoo Med Reptile Halogen Bulb is ideal for providing UVA, along with heat for the basking site. For larger cages, a Mercury Vapor Bulb will supply UVB over a greater distance than will a florescent bulb.
The ambient air temperature should be 84-87 F, with a basking spot of
92-95 F. Over-night temperatures can dip to the low-mid 70's, assuming the animals are in good health (use a ceramic heater or Reptile Nightlight Bulb if supplementary nighttime heating is required).
Green anoles prefer moderate to high humidity levels, but need to bask and dry out as well. The terrarium should be misted twice daily, more often if needed to combat the drying influence of incandescent bulbs. A screen top should be used to ensure adequate air circulation.
Feeding
Crickets and Commercially Available Insects
A "cricket only" diet, while convenient, should be avoided. I have found that a varied diet is vital for long-term maintenance of green anoles. When using crickets, be sure to select only half-grown or smaller animals for adult anoles, as they are prone to blockages when fed adult crickets. The crickets should themselves be well fed before being offered to your pets.
Small roaches, waxworms, butterworms and mealworm beetles should also be provided. Anoles are often reluctant to come to the ground to feed, so provide these insects in a cup suspended among the branches. Pinch off several legs of the roaches in order to keep them confined - being nocturnal, they will likely escape notice if released into the terrarium. Only small, newly molted (white in color) mealworms should be fed to green anoles, and these not more than once monthly.
Wild Caught Insects - the most important part of the diet
Wild caught insects (i.e. collected via Zoo Med's Bug Napper) should be provided often. Anoles under my care have been particularly fond of moths, flies, tree crickets, hairless caterpillars, harvestmen ("daddy longlegs") and small spiders. During the warmer months of the year, I collect nearly all of the invertebrates that I give to insectivorous reptiles, but even an occasional wild-caught insect will be of great value to your pet. The Bug Napper is indispensible in this regard. Small silkworms and house flies should be ordered from insect suppliers periodically.
Canned Insects
In order to increase dietary variety, anoles should be acclimated to tong feeding and offered canned grasshoppers, silkworms and other commercially-available insects.
Nectar and Water
Wild anoles of various species have been observed lapping at sap and nectar, although in my experience not all green anoles do so in captivity. The following mixture, suspended in cups set among the branches, should be offered weekly:
1/3 jar papaya, apricot or mixed fruit baby food
1 teaspoon honey
¼ teaspoon liquid bird vitamins or powdered reptile vitamins
Water sufficient to achieve syrupy a consistency
Anoles will not drink water from bowls (some will if the water is kept in motion by an air stone); their enclosure should be misted twice daily.
Frequency of Feeding
Green anoles have fairly high metabolisms and do best on small frequent feedings - meals should be provided daily or every other day. This is especially important in group situations, where competition may limit feeding opportunities for some animals. The food of adults should be sprinkled with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement twice weekly.
Green anoles are taken for granted - while not "easy", they are manageable with a bit of effort, and may well turn out to be one of your most interesting lizard-keeping endeavors. I'll continue with their captive care next time. Until then, please write in with your own thoughts and questions. Thanks, Frank
A comprehensive article on the captive husbandry and research value of the green anole is posted at:
http://dels.nas.edu/ilar_n/ilarjournal/45_1/pdfs/v4501lovern.pdf
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November 26th, 2008 at 10:44 am
I am house sitting for a green anole and it has turned brown – green last night brown today with a white spot on it’s hind legs. In addition, there is no light above the cage and the owners turned their heat to 55 – I think it is dying?? Any thoughts, I hate to see the lizard suffer – I did turn the heat up to try to keep him warm. Thanks!
November 26th, 2008 at 1:03 pm
Hello Bree,
Frank Indiviglio here. Very nice of you to take the time to inquire about the anole.
Anoles do indeed turn brown when they are cool or stressed, and it was a good idea to turn up the heat. A temperature of 55 will cause it to become lethargic. Technically, a short period at that temperature would be fine, but only if food had been withheld prior to the temperature drop (undigested food in the gut at 55 will spoil and likely kill the lizard) and the animal is otherwise in very good health.
If possible, place a 40-60 watt light incandescent bulb in a fixture on the terrarium’s screen to, over a branch or plant that the lizard can climb onto. This will allow him to warm up…it might then be OK to lower the house heat again. You can leave the bulb on all night – a short period without darkness will do no harm…he’ll sleep normally. Keep the bulb 6 inches or so any sort of flammable objects, i.e. a paper-backed terrarium background or plant.
Mist the terrarium lightly once daily with water from a spray bottle, so the anole can drink. Feeding will depend upon over-all temperature and the amount of time involved – 5-7 days without food should be fine, but please write in with details if you need further information.
From what you’ve written, I’m guessing that the anole’s owner is not well-versed in lizard care. Please inform her/him that a source of UVB light is essential…without such, the lizard may look fine for awhile but will languish and die rather quickly. Please also direct the owner to my article for advice on feeding and other husbandry aspects, and for links to lights, vitamins and other necessary items. The owner can also contact me through this blog.
I hope this was of some help…please write back if you need any more information and, on behalf of myself and your now chilled charge, thanks!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
November 26th, 2008 at 1:23 pm
Thank you! I am going to let him know about your site. He is young and this is his first anole, but he has had a gecko for over a year and he is healthy and happy so he is learning. I thank you again for all your help and I will be in touch if anything happens. Take Care.
November 26th, 2008 at 1:53 pm
Hello Bree,
Thanks for your note, and thank you for referring the anole owner to our blog.
Please point out to him that the anole’s needs are very different from those most geckos, in terms of diet, UVB, humidity etc., lest he be mislead into caring for the anole in the manner that has worked well for his gecko. I’ll be happy to help if he writes in.
Best Regards, Frank Indiviglio
October 20th, 2009 at 5:39 pm
How should I feed my lizard? I have small, live crickets that are dusted with calcium.
October 20th, 2009 at 6:23 pm
Hello Steve, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
The crickets can just be released into the terrarium…observe your lizard and try to feed only as many as it will eat right away. Crickets that wander about too long will lose most of their supplement coating, and large ones (which should not be used anyway) may attack anoles at night, if the temperatures drop and the lizard becomes inactive.
Be sure also to follow the guidelines in the article concerning dietary variety; avoid using crickets only.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 21st, 2009 at 12:47 pm
Again hello frank-
Thanks for the input.. I’m about to move about 4 hours away coming up pretty soon, and I was wondering the best way to transport my lizard.
October 21st, 2009 at 3:13 pm
Hello Steve, Frank Indiviglio here.
Best to put the lizard into a pillow case with some crumpled up newspapers to grip onto; place the pillowcase into a dark container, such as a box. This is preferable to a clear tank, as the lizard will try to escape if it gets stressed by the move. It will sleep in the dark, and will be unable to injure itself within the pillowcase. Make sure there are no loose threads in the lining of the pillowcase, so that the lizard will not tangle a leg.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
October 24th, 2009 at 10:00 am
My lizard does not seem to be eating the live crickets I put into his tank. How can I fix this? Should I feed him only the other insects you suggested?
October 24th, 2009 at 2:59 pm
Hello Bobby, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Variety is important, but anoles usually accept crickets right away. Often the root of the problem is in the animal’s environment. Please send in some information on the terrarium set up (size, plants, branches etc.), temperature, UVB light source and basking spot so that I can make a more accurate recommendation. Also, please bear in mind that anoles do not endure handling or disturbance well; the stress of such will put them off feed for sure.
I look forward to hearing from you,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.