That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information

Turtles and tortoises are the most popular of all reptilian pets – even “non-herpers” like them – and this is reflected by the many websites devoted to Chelonian-related matters. Following are some that I have found to be especially valuable. This list is by no means exhaustive…I’ll cover others in future articles.

The New York Turtle and Tortoise Society

I’ve worked with the dedicated folks at NYTTS for many years, and they have been kind enough to feature my articles on their website. More important (infinitely more!) than my connection to NYTTS is their long standing relationship with legendary turtle biologist Peter Pritchard, who often speaks at the group’s day-long annual seminars. Rhom Whittaker, Mike Klemens, Roger Wood, Indraneil Das and numerous other notables have also participated in NYTTS sponsored programs.

NYTTS provides quality husbandry information and also gets involved in the hands-on work upon which the survival of so many turtle species depends. They have long provided support to Southeast Asian students studying turtle biology here in the USA and to the fine work of the Wetlands Institute and have helped in large scale rescues of confiscated turtles.

NYTTS conservation and trade issues expert Alan Salzberg publishes Herp Digest, a wonderful resource and the only free electronic herp conservation and natural history newsletter.

Tortoise Trust

Tortoise Trust is one of the reptile-world’s most highly-respected sources of information on turtle and tortoise husbandry, conservation and natural history. Noted author and herpetologist Andy Highfield directs the organization, which is utilized by professionals and hobbyists alike.

Tortoise Trust is unique among turtle interest groups in the range of activities it sponsors – courses, field trips, political action, research efforts – and in the numerous top notch publications it has generated (in addition to online material).

Turtles of the World

It’s difficult to believe that a resource of this caliber is available without charge on the inter net. An updated version of Ernst and Barbour’s classic book Turtles of the World, this publication provides detailed accounts and photos of the 288 species of turtle and tortoise described at the time of publication. A “must read” for serious turtle enthusiasts.

Turtle Homes

Operated by volunteers throughout the USA, the UK and Canada, and with connections to similar organizations in Asia and elsewhere, Turtle Homes members seek to place un-releasable turtles and tortoises with people or organizations that can properly tend to their husbandry and veterinary needs. They also post accurate care sheets, answer questions and direct site visitors to appropriate sources of information.

The California Turtle and Tortoise Club

The husbandry articles drawn from CTTC’s magazine, Tortuga Gazette, and posted on the group’s website, offer Chelonian enthusiasts some of the best information available on the inter net. The printed version of the Tortuga Gazette, published since 1965, is a well-written, invaluable resource to hobbyists and herpetologists alike.

The group is also actively involved in conservation efforts and supportive of turtle-friendly legislation, and offers site users a number of ways to participate in such. In addition to dozens of informative articles, one may also find photographs and even recordings of tortoise vocalizations on this most useful web site.

Please see Part I of this article for a description of UVA light, information about its importance to reptiles and amphibians and its role in their captive husbandry.

Light and Heat

In addition to promoting natural behavior and improving the appetites of many captive reptiles and amphibians, ( Part I), the light emitted by UVA bulbs will also accentuate your pets’ natural colors.

The models listed below are incandescent, and therefore provide heat and encourage basking.  When placed in close proximity to florescent UVB bulbs (which emit little heat), UVA bulbs can help assure that your pets receive the full spectrum of essential light rays.

Light Cycle

The length of the UVA light cycle provided is critical, especially for those creatures that are native to areas subjected to seasonal changes in sunlight intensity and duration.  Ideally, you should study the natural habits and ranges of the animals in your collection, and endeavor to provide them with an appropriate light cycle.

Suggested UVA-Emitting Bulbs (Lamps)

Zoo Med manufactures a number of useful UVA bulbs. Repti-Halogen Bulbs are available in 50-150 watt sizes.  Repti-Basking Spotlights offer a narrow, tight beam, and range in size from 25-150 watts.

Zoo Med Turtle Tuff Halogen Bulbs  are water-resistant, and so can stand up to the splashing that is so common around aquatic turtle basking areas without breaking.  They have an average life of 2,500 hours.

Other high quality UVA bulbs include the Hagen Sun Glo Daylight Halogen and R-Zilla’s Spot Day White Bulbs and Incandescent Day White Bulbs.

While the role of UVB light in the care of reptiles is well understood, we are only beginning to learn about their needs for UVA. Unlike UVB, UVA may also be critical to the proper husbandry of amphibians and invertebrates. Today I’ll summarize what is known; in Part II of this article we’ll take a look at some of the UVA-Emitting Bulbs currently available at ThatFishPlace/ThatPetPlace.

Description

UVA light has a wavelength of 320-400 nanometers (a nanometer measures 1 thousandth of 1 millionth of a meter…don’t ask me how that was figured out!) and is visible to herps and many invertebrates, but not to people.

The Pineal Gland

UVA light sensed by an organ known as the pineal gland (located near the brain) of many reptiles.  It functions in the regulation of their “internal clocks” or circadian rhythms, and is believed responsible for daily and seasonal behavioral changes in response to varying light levels.  A similar process is at work in amphibians and at least some invertebrates.

Uses in Captivity

The provision of UVA light encourages natural behavior, better appetites, basking and breeding in a great many species.  UVA reflective areas on animals and plants (which we cannot see) help a variety of creatures to identify mates, food and predators.

A lack of UVA may be responsible for the failure of many otherwise hardy species to breed regularly in captivity.  For example, without UVA light, female desert iguanas cannot see the pheromone trails laid down by males in breeding condition, and hence may fail to reproduce.

Unlike UVB, which is generally not essential to nocturnal animals, UVA light may have a role in regulating the behavior of both diurnal and nocturnal species.

Next time we’ll take a look at some UVA-emitting bulbs.  We have a great deal to learn about UVA.

After shedding, leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) sometimes exhibit a condition that superficially resembles what snake owners know as “retained eye caps”. However, the structure of a leopard gecko’s eye, and that of the closely related banded and fat-tailed geckos, is nothing like that of a snake’s, and problems following shedding must be addressed in a very different manner.

Leopard Gecko Eye Structure

Leopard, banded and fat-tailed geckos are classified in the gecko subfamily Eublepharinae, and differ from all other geckos in having movable eyelids. In fact, the genus name, Eublepharis, means “true eye lids”. The eyes of all other species in the family Gekkonidae are covered by a transparent cap, or spectacle, which is fused to the eyelids (like snakes, they cannot blink their eyes).

The eyelids of leopard geckos and their relatives are lined with a thin layer of skin. This eyelid liner is replaced along with the rest of the gecko’s skin when shedding occurs. However, if conditions are too dry in the terrarium, the eyelid lining may stick to the lid and be retained after shedding. This will lead to an irritation. Eventually, an infection will set in and cause the eye to swell.

Diagnosis and Treatment

The retained skin is thin but visible, so check your gecko carefully after it sheds. Geckos so affected will also blink a great deal, and may rub the area.

While experienced hobbyists may be able to remove retained eye caps (brille) from pet snakes, retained eyelid liners are an entirely different matter. This problem must be attended to by an experienced veterinarian only.

Avoiding Problems: Humidity and Diet

An overly-dry environment seems to be the main factor leading to retained eyelid liners. Although geckos are native to quite arid habitats, like all desert animals they are able to find moist retreats, usually below ground, when necessary. It is easy to overlook this when keeping desert animals. For years zoos kept Gila monsters, native to one of the driest places on earth, in bone-dry exhibits. Field research showed, however, that these lizards actually spend 90% of their time in burrows where humidity levels are quite high.

Shedding aids are useful for lizards of all types, especially desert-adapted species.

Low Vitamin A levels have also been implicated in gecko shedding problems. Be sure to provide your lizard with a varied diet and appropriate vitamin/mineral supplements. Please write in if you need detailed advice on feeding your gecko.

Aeromonas hydrophila is a common species of gram negative bacteria that often infects captive frogs and salamanders. It is particularly prevalent during the warmer months, when high temperatures stress amphibian immune systems (even tropical species often spend much of their time in cool micro-habitats) and leave them vulnerable to microorganisms that might otherwise have been resisted. Aeromonas infections are usually referred to as “red leg” or “Septicemia”.

Symptoms

Red leg, so named because the red lesions associated with it often first appear on the skin where the rear legs meet the body, is contagious and can be transmitted by contact with infected water, animals, wood, etc. The skin hemorrhages that typically occur become progressively deeper and the skin eventually sloughs off. Afflicted animals may also twitch, convulse, and become comatose. If not treated in its early stages, the condition is almost always fatal.

Improved sanitation is an immediate first step to take. Hands must be washed after handling animals and enclosures, for your own and your collection’s benefit. Environmental conditions such as poor hygiene will contribute to Aeromonas outbreaks, as will overcrowding.

Refrigeration as Treatment

Red leg is sometimes cured or by refrigeration at 39 to 41°F for two weeks. This treatment, pioneered in laboratory colonies of leopard frogs, has also been successfully used with Mexican axolotls. It appears that the immune systems of some amphibians function more effectively at low temperatures, while Aeromonas bacteria does best under warmer conditions.

The beneficial effects of low temperatures are not limited to red leg alone…while working at the Bronx Zoo I twice submitted “dead” salamanders (a mudpuppy and a hellbender) for necropsy, only to find them alive and well after a night in the animal hospital’s refrigerator!

Medical Treatment

When working with animals afflicted by any type of infection, it is very important that you contact your personal physician for advice concerning possible health risks to you and other members of your household.

While lacerated skin would lead one to believe that Aeromonas is the culprit, a definite diagnosis can only be made by blood culture performed by a veterinarian. This is important because a number of other species of bacteria, including Pseudomonas and Salmonella, may cause similar lesions, and the treatment of each will likely vary. Opportunistic bacteria and fungi, which commonly colonize the open wounds, must also be addressed.

Further Reading

An interesting early case history of a red leg outbreak among captive frogs is posted at https://kb.osu.edu/dspace/bitstream/1811/5136/1/V66N01_087.pdf.