That Reptile Blog » Reptile and Amphibian Health

The Best Diet for Uromastyx Lizards – a Herpetologist’s Thoughts

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 15:33:34 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Bulldog-like faces, calm dispositions, and fascinating behaviors – not to mention the stunning colors of many species – place Uromastyx Lizards high on the “must have” lists of serious lizard fans and zoos alike. Also known as Dab Lizards or Spiny-Tailed Mastiguerres, North African and Egyptian Uromastyx Lizards (Uromastyx acanthinura and U. aegypticus) first arrived on the US pet scene in the early 1990’s. I’d had some prior experience with these and several others through my work with the Bronx Zoo, but our ability to successfully keep and breed them was limited. Today we have learned much about their unique nutritional requirements, and several of the 15 described species are regularly bred by hobbyists. The following information regarding the best diet for Uromastyx may be applied to Egyptian, Indian, Ornate, Sudanese, Mali, Moroccan and most other varieties; please post below for detailed advice on individual species.

Don’t “Kill them with Kindness”!

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Nadja Pöllath

Uromastyx Lizards dwell in harsh habitats, and have evolved to consume a diet that is high in fiber and relatively low in nutrients. In the wild, they feed mainly upon tough grasses and herbaceous plants. A diet that is too rich (i.e. high in fruit or insects) can kill them as quickly as will one lacking essential nutrients. As I’ve learned from caring for animals as diverse as giant anteaters and proboscis monkeys, one must feed specialists carefully…they will not thrive on a diet that might be perfect for closely-related species from different habitats.

The Ideal Diet

A wide variety of nutritious plants should form the bulk of the diet of all Uromastyx species. Approximately 80% of their food intake should be a mix of collared, mustard and turnip greens, kale, endive, escarole, cilantro, dandelion, bok choy, romaine and other dark green produce, along with a small amount of squash and green beans. Spine-free prickly pear cactus (Opuntia) pads, sold for human consumption, should be offered when available. Avoid cabbage and spinach, and limit broccoli, as these may react with some nutrients in a way that renders them unavailable to the lizards. Grassland Tortoise Pellets, dried split peas, dried lentils and other beans, almonds and other nuts, and parakeet seed mix should be added to the salad. Adults can be fed 5-7 times weekly, juveniles daily.

Flowers, Grasses and Other Plants

Flowers such as hibiscus, honeysuckle, Rose of Sharon, rose and dandelion, and various clovers, weeds, grasses and other native plants, are also readily accepted, and can provide important dietary variety; please post below for information on suitable wild plants and toxic species.

Insects

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Mickey Samuni-Blank

Insects should be used only as a rare treat, or perhaps to induce a reluctant feeder or habituate a shy individual to your presence. Any insects that are offered should be small in size, as Uromastyx Lizards seem especially prone to intestinal blockages. Although all young and many adult Uromastyx Lizards favor insects, their frequent inclusion in the diet has been linked to health problems. Hopefully we will learn more in time; until then, please post your thoughts and observations below.

Supplements

All meals should be powdered with Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product. A vitamin supplement such as ReptiVite should be provided to well-nourished individuals once weekly.

Water

Highly adapted to arid habitats, properly-fed Uromastyx Lizards usually obtain sufficient water from their diet. As a safety measure, the terrarium should be misted twice daily, so that water may be lapped from rocks and other surfaces. A shallow bowl can be offered as well, but it should be removed after an hour or so to reduce spillage. Newly-imported and poorly-nourished individuals are prone to dehydration; please post below for further information.

Uploaded to Wikipedia by en:User:Webwheeler

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible. Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio.

The Best Foods for Poison Frogs, Mantellas and Other Tiny Amphibians

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 18 Apr 2013 17:13:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I began working with Poison Frogs and Mantellas in zoos just as the secrets to longevity and breeding were being discovered. Today, captive-bred animals are almost mainstream. This is wonderful, but there is a downside – they are sometimes viewed as “simple to keep”. But while these tiny gems can be surprisingly hardy, they will not thrive long-term if their unique nutritional requirements are not met. Friends of mine who have broken new ground with Poison Frogs – in one case years before most zoos did – have always expended a great deal of effort on providing a varied diet. The following information is drawn from their and my own experiences over several decades, and may also be applied to the care of many other small and newly-transformed amphibians.

General Considerations

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Marcel Burkhard

Although we do not know the exact nutritional needs of any species, certain principles have become evident. Chief among these is that a highly-varied diet is essential. Crickets alone, even if powdered with supplements, are not an adequate diet. There are exceptions, but nearly every study of free-living amphibians reveals that a surprising range of prey species are consumed.

Comparatively large species, such as the Golden Poison Frog (Phyllobates terribilis), are able to consume a wider range of food items than their tiny relatives, and hence may be a better choice for most hobbyists. The largest Mantellas reach a mere 1 ½ inches in length, so providing for them can be quite a challenge.

Poison and Mantella Frogs have large appetites and should be fed every day or two. One Brown Mantella was observed to eat 53 ants in 30 minutes!

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Shipher Wu

The Ideal Diet

Always try to offer your frogs as many of the following food items as possible.

Moths, Gnats and other Small Flying Insects

These can be easily collected near outdoor lights. Zoo Med’s Bug Napper, which traps live insects drawn to light, is indispensable to serious frog-keepers. I use it at home, and relied upon similar models during my zoo career (please see photo).

Leaf Litter Invertebrates

Ants, slugs, millipedes, sow bugs, mites, springtails, bristletails, termites and similar creatures form the bulk of the natural diets of most small ground-dwelling frogs. And whether you live in the countryside or the heart of NYC, a free supply is as close as the nearest batch of decaying leaves. Please see this article for further information.

Simple pitfall traps can also be used to harvest a variety of small invertebrates.

Flightless Fruit Flies

Cultures are available commercially, and once you develop a system you can assure a year-round supply.

Aphids

Aphids are tiny insects that gather in huge groups on the stems of native and garden plants. In many habitats, hundreds can be collected in a few minutes by merely snipping off an infested stem. As a child, I fed aphids to a wide variety of creatures, including American Toad and Gray Treefrog metamorphs, Red-Backed Salamanders and hatchling Chinese Mantids, and continued to use them throughout my zoo career. They are soft-bodied (an important consideration for some frogs), and seem to be a nutritious food item.

Springtails

These primitive insects are an excellent food source and can be bred year-round (cultures available commercially) or collected below leaf litter just about anywhere. They are easy to nutrient-load, feeding ravenously upon fish flakes and soaked Reptomin.

Termites

Termites are valuable foods for Poison Frogs, and are likely consumed by most in the wild. Termites can easily be collected from colonies established in dead logs. A termite trap, baited with damp cardboard, is simple to construct and may yield thousands of insects each season. Please see the article linked below.

Flour Beetle Larvae

I was first introduced to flour beetles some 20 years ago by Bob Holland, a friend who was setting Poison Frog longevity records before most zoos kept any at all. Back then, we collected our stock from old boxes of dog biscuits. Today, two species easy-to-breed insects are available commercially. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Ants

Experimentation is required where ants are concerned, as some species are rejected and others are adept at repelling predators. But the effort is worthwhile, as ants feature heavily in the diets of nearly all small frogs. Most are easy to trap. During my years at the Bronx Zoo, nuptial flights of breeding males and females would erupt regularly from a colony beneath the Reptile House. I’d gather as many as possible, and delighted in seeing the enthusiastic responses of creatures ranging from Spring Peepers to Pangolins.

“Meadow Plankton”

This is a term used by entomologists to describe the myriads of tiny invertebrates that can be gathered by sweeping through tall grass with a net. Beating bushes so that insects fall onto a sheet spread below is equally rewarding (and great fun…I’ve collected some fascinating creatures in these ways!). Tiny grasshoppers, tree crickets, caterpillars, leafhoppers and innumerable others can contribute greatly to the health of your animals.

It takes some time to properly master this technique, and there are some precautions that must be taken (recognizing dangerous species, pesticide concerns) Please see this article and post your questions below.

Praying Mantid Nymphs

Hatchling mantids are an excellent food for tiny amphibians of all kinds. Egg cases may be collected or purchased from garden supply dealers. Please see this article to learn more about this under-utilized food.

Pinhead and 10 day-old Crickets

Crickets should themselves properly fed. Please see this article for information on their husbandry and use.

Supplements

All commercial insects (crickets, fruit flies) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal or Zoo Med ReptiCalcium. A vitamin/mineral supplement such as ReptiVite with D3 should be used 2-3 times weekly. I do not supplement wild-caught insects.

Colleagues in various zoos are experimenting with other supplements; I’ll stay alert for developments. In the meantime, please post your own experiences below.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Building a Termite Trap

Breeding Flour Beetles

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Best Foods for Poison Frogs, Mantellas and Other Tiny Amphibians

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The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:06:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Like most lifelong animal keepers, I consider myself to be a fairly good judge of humidity levels in the home terrariums and zoo exhibits under my care. But when I began working in new buildings equipped with state-of-the-art hygrometers (humidity gauges), I quickly realized that I had much to learn. I was especially surprised to discover how widely humidity levels can vary within even a small enclosure, and how this can affect every facet of an animal’s life. The accurate, easy-to-use humidity gauges now available offer us the chance to provide better care to our charges and perhaps to uncover important new details about their lives.

Recent Innovations in Humidity Monitoring

Over the past several decades, hobbyists and zoos have greatly expanded the number of rare and delicate species that can be kept and bred in captivity. Many of these successes have been due to an increased understanding of the roles that UVB, temperature, diet and other such factors play in their lives.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Luc Viatour

Humidity levels have also been taken into account by serious animal owners, but this topic has been given less attention than others. This is partially because many reptiles, and some amphibians and invertebrates, can meet their needs by soaking in a water bowl or retreating to a moist shelter. But the real obstacle has been the unavailability of affordable hygrometers designed for use with animals. Happily, humidity gauges that fit just about every terrarium and budget are now available, and all are very simple to use (since I can do it!).

Areas of Special Concern

While all animals are to some degree affected by humidity levels, certain captives require closer monitoring than others. Humidity levels are crucial when most species are shedding/molting. Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, hermit crabs, mantids and other invertebrates easily become, as we say, “stuck in the molt” when humidity levels are too low. While we can sometimes assist them in this situation, most die.

Reptiles and amphibians usually survive dry molts, but problems ranging from fungal/bacterial infections beneath old skin to digit loss and retained eye caps may result. Poison frogs and other small, highly active amphibians, and those that remain in the open when resting, as do most treefrogs, are especially at risk from overly-dry conditions. Please see the articles below for further information on herp and invertebrate shedding concerns.

Humidity plays an important role in activity levels, cutaneous respiration, reproduction, immune system function, skin health and a wide variety of other processes. With so many amphibians in dire need of captive breeding these days, I believe it is critical that we begin to record our observations concerning humidity levels. Please consider using a hygrometer and relaying your thoughts by posting below; I’ll be sure to pass the information along, thanks.

The Zilla Humidity and Temperature Digital Gauge

This is my favorite gauge for average to large terrariums. The separate probes for temperature and humidity attach to the glass via suction cups, allowing for easy movement so that various areas of the terrarium (cave, basking site, etc.) can be monitored. I find the thin, 59 inch-long wires connected to the probes to be especially valuable. In smaller enclosures, the wires can be rolled up and secured with a twist-tie. The unit itself measures only 4 x 1 ½ inches, and is quite unobtrusive. It remains outside the terrarium, and features a built-in stand and a notch for wall mounting.

The Zilla Gauge monitors a humidity range of 10-99% and temperatures from -58 F to 158 F (if your pet requires conditions outside of those ranges, it likely belongs in a zoo!). “Comfort”, “Wet” and “Dry” messages are displayed at certain readings. While these are general in nature and will not apply to all species, many hobbyists find them useful. Temperatures can be displayed in either Fahrenheit or Celsius.

The unit also features an alarm, which can function as a reminder to check the terrarium or administer medications (if you sleep as lightly as I, it might also serve as an alarm clock!).

The Zoo Med Dual Humidity Gauge and Thermometer

Although marketed for use with hermit crabs, this small (3” x 1 ½”) gauge is ideal for small to moderately-sized terrariums housing most any species. Despite being quite inexpensive, it is accurate and stands up well to both damp and hot conditions.

The temperature and humidity levels are displayed side-by-side on brightly-colored, easy-to-read dials. “Dry”, “Optimum” and “Wet” ranges (for hermit crabs) are shown in different colors. The gauge attaches to glass with a sturdy Velcro strip.

Being colorful and simple to read, the Zoo Med Gauge is a great way to introduce youngsters to the concept of monitoring and recording environmental conditions. I plan to present several to my 5-year old nephew (shown here examining his “pet” mosquito larvae, much to his mom’s chagrin!) for use with his fire salamanders and domino roaches.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Shedding Problems and Other Scorpion Ailments

Leopard Gecko Shedding Concerns

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

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Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:25:19 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Gaily clad in brilliant, neon-hued colors, Day Geckos (Phelsuma spp.) are among the most desirable of all lizard pets, so here is a short article about Day Gecko care. Many are hardy, long-lived, and relatively simple to breed…but only if they are housed in a properly-designed habitat. Active and alert, these cautious animals fare poorly in bare enclosures, but are ideally suited for life in naturalistic, planted terrariums. The security provided by dense plantings and well-placed branches will put Day Geckos at ease and allow you to view a wide range of fascinating behaviors.

Setting up the Terrarium

Day Geckos are highly arboreal and must have climbing opportunities. “High-style” aquariums make fine homes. A pair or trio of Spotted, Yellow-Throated or other small species can be kept in a 15-20 gallon aquarium. A 30-55 gallon tank will accommodate the same number of Standing’s, Madagascar or Giant Day Geckos. Always opt for the largest terrarium possible.

Photo uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Manuel Werner, Nürtingen, Germany

Day Geckos need spacious enclosures that mimic their natural habitat. Live plants such as Pothos and Philodendron will provide visual barriers between tank-mates and a sense of security. Rolled cork bark and hollow bamboo sections make ideal hideaways and perching sites, and should be arranged both horizontally and vertically.

Be sure to establish plenty of basking sites near heat and UVB bulbs, as dominant individuals may exclude others from these important areas.

The terrarium’s screen lid must be tightly secured with clamps.

Substrate

A mix of potting soil, cypress mulch and sphagnum moss is ideal.

Light

Day Geckos will not thrive without a source of UVB light (but some notable exceptions are known; please see article below). Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

Your geckos should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb; the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb, which I have used at the Bronx and Staten Island Zoos, has been shown to out-perform other florescent models. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well. Be sure to provide shaded areas.

A daytime period of 12-14 hours should be established.

Heat

Ambient temperatures of 82-88 F, with a basking spot of 90-95 F, will suit most (please post below for information on individual species).

Incandescent spotlights may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Provide your pets with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. In small or poorly ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

Humidity

Most Day Geckos are rainforest dwellers and do best in humid surroundings. Their terrarium should be misted at least twice daily. If your home is especially dry, consider using a small reptile fogger to raise the humidity levels in the terrarium (please see photo).

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together. Females are territorial, and must be watched carefully. Pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) and youngsters may co-exist in large enclosures, but be sure to check dominant individuals do not prevent others from feeding and basking.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Keeping Day Geckos without a UVB Source

Gecko Overview

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

The post Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The Best Terrarium Cleaning Products and Methods

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 01 Apr 2013 16:01:31 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. During a long career zoo career that found me working with animals ranging from ants to elephants, I’ve had many occasions to review veterinary and pathology reports. In doing so, I’ve come to understand that zoonotic diseases – those that can pass from animals to people – are a potential concern in the keeping of any pet. Most people associate Salmonella, the best known zoonotic, with reptiles, but nearly any animal, including dogs, cats and birds, may harbor this bacterium. Fortunately, Salmonella and other infections can be avoided by following a few relatively simple rules.

Note: This article is not meant to replace a doctor’s advice, nor is it intended to discourage pet ownership. By observing a few simple precautions, the most commonly-encountered problems can be effectively managed. Please post your questions and concerns below, and be sure to consult your doctor or veterinarian for specific information concerning disease prevention and treatment.

What Are the Risks?

Uploaded to Wikipedia by Jens Raschendorf.

If we are to safely enjoy our pets, it is important that we become aware of the concerns while maintaining a reasonable perspective.

For example, while it is true that Salmonella bacteria are likely present in all reptile and amphibian digestive tracts, merely handling an animal that carries Salmonella will not cause an infection. Salmonella bacteria are harmful to people only if ingested. Consider also that dogs may potentially carry at least 17 harmful microorganisms, yet the vast majority of dog owners are never troubled by health problems. Similarly, the same can be said of reptile owners, zookeepers and herpetologists – Salmonella infections are not typical.

Please see this article for information concerning Mycobacteria.

How Infections Are Contracted

Understanding how bacteria are transferred from animals to people is the key to avoiding Salmonella infections. Salmonella bacteria are shed in the feces and can live on counters, tools, food bowls, animal skin and other surfaces for several days.

Reptile skin, water bowls, terrarium substrates and other surfaces may harbor bacteria that have been shed in feces. People can become infected and/or spread the bacteria to others if they handle a reptile (or its cage, etc.) and then eat or touch surfaces that come in contact with food before washing properly.

Basic Rules

Always wash your hands with hot, soapy water after handling animals and tools used to service aquariums or terrariums, and after being in an area where animals are allowed to roam free.

Stop working with your pets if you receive a cut or break in the skin. Exposing a wound to terrarium or aquarium water after applying an antibiotic will negate the value of the medicine. Seek a doctor’s advice.

Wear gloves or use a substrate scooper when cleaning animal enclosures. Disposable gloves, available in pharmacies, are fine for most terrariums. Coralife Aqua Gloves, which reach to the elbow, are very useful for aquarium work. Wear goggles if splashing water is a concern.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by , LiquidGhoul.

Reptiles should not be allowed into kitchens, dining rooms or other areas where food is prepared or eaten. Bathroom sinks and tubs, and areas where infants are bathed, should also be off-limits.

Reptiles should not be allowed to roam about the home (this presents a fire hazard as well). If it is necessary to keep a reptile un-caged, it should be confined to an easily-cleaned room from which human food and at-risk individuals (small children and elderly or immune-compromised individuals) are excluded.

Terrariums, aquariums, food bowls and other animal-related items should not be cleaned in kitchen or bathroom sinks. A plastic tub should be used if a basement or “animal-only” sink is not available. Rinse water and fecal material should be disposed of in a toilet, not a sink or tub. Clean accidental spills with a product that contains bleach.

Never start a siphon by sucking on its end with your mouth. Always fill it with water to create suction or use a hand-operated siphon starter.

Do not drink, eat or smoke while working with animals. Never kiss your pet or feed it from bowls used for your own meals.

The Center for Disease Control guidelinescontain additional precautions. Please review them carefully.

Cleaning Terrariums, Aquariums and Related Items

Reptile enclosures, food bowls and the like should be cleaned with Nolvasan, a reptile-safe commercial cleaner, or a bleach solution (1 cup bleach per gallon of water). Zoo Med Wipe Out Terrarium Cleaner kills a wide range of commonly-encountered bacteria, including Salmonella and Pseudomonas.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Pedro Reina.

Amphibians, invertebrates and fishes are especially sensitive to chemicals. Their terrariums and aquariums should be cleaned with fish-safe products or with the bleach solution described above.

Cleaning implements should be soaked in any of the aforementioned cleaners before being re-used. Be sure to remove feces and other organic material before soaking. Rinse the tools well after removal from the soak solution. Immersion in water containing an instant de-chlorinator is recommended for hard-to-clean items (i.e. siphon and filter tubes) that are to be used with fishes or amphibians.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Salmonella Prevention Guidelines

Aqua Gloves

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Best Terrarium Cleaning Products and Methods

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Supplies for Red Eared Sliders and Similar Turtles

thatpetblog — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 17:16:25 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Tempted to buy that tiny green turtle being offered for a mere dollar or two? While Red-Eared Sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans) can make an interesting and responsive pets, their care is far more complicated (and expensive!) than most new owners expect. In perhaps no other animal is the distinction between initial price and long term cost of care so great. Furthermore, the care guidelines offered by many sellers are often overly-simplified and inaccurate. Following is a list of everything you’ll need to provide a proper home for Red Eared Sliders and other species with similar lifestyles (i.e. Map, Painted and Side-Necked Turtles, Cooters), along with notes concerning each item. An in-depth article about Slider care and natural history is posted here.

Do Not Buy Hatchlings!

Although newly-hatched Sliders are still offered for sale, usually at fairs, carnivals and street stalls, it is illegal to sell them (or any turtle less than 4 inches in length) in the USA, and has been since 1975. The law was enacted by the Food and Drug Administration in response to Salmonella outbreaks linked to hatchlings. For further information on the Salmonella- turtle connection, please see this article.

Because Sliders grow much faster than most owners expect, turtle rescue organizations are swamped with unwanted pets. Please consider adopting rather than purchasing a turtle; please post below if you need adoption assistance.

The Aquarium

Sliders grow rapidly, and may attain full size within 2-4 years. Females reach 8-12 inches in both length and width (think large dinner plate) while males generally top out at 6 inches. Being quite active, an adult female will require a 55-75 gallon aquarium at minimum; a male might get by in a 30 gallon, but more room (for either sex) is preferable.

Zoo Med’s Turtle Tub makes an excellent home for large and small Sliders.

Children’s wading pools or koi ponds are often easier to manage than aquariums, especially if you have more than one turtle. Plastic storage bins can easily be modified into low-cost turtle homes. Please post below for further information.

Basking Site

Red-Eared Sliders need a non-abrasive surface on which to rest and dry off. The basking site should be located beneath a heat and UVB bulb, so that your turtle can attain its ideal body temperature and manufacture Vitamin D3 within the skin (see Heat and UVB Bulbs, below).

I prefer basking sites that are suspended at the water’s surface, as these do not take up valuable swimming space. Zoo Med’s Turtle Dock features a sloping ramp and is available in several sizes.

Larger individuals may partially submerge platforms that attach to aquarium glass, and hence will not be able to completely dry-off while basking. The Penn Plax Turtle Pier has a gravel reservoir to offset the weight of larger turtles, and also provides a sub-surface hiding and resting spot.

Cork bark also works well, especially if wedged between the aquarium’s sides.

Filter

You can do without a filter if your turtle lives in an easily-emptied plastic bin. However, filtration is essential if you maintain these messy feeders in an aquarium. A wide variety of submersible and canister filters, designed specifically for use with turtles, are now available. Please see this article to read about my favorite types. A siphon will simplify waste removal and partial water changes.

Feeding Enclosure

Although not essential, a separate feeding enclosure, such as a plastic sweater box, will ease the filter’s job and limit the frequency of water changes. Please see this article for more on maintaining water quality.

Water Heater

Use a “turtle proof” submersible heater to maintain your Slider’s water at 76-82 F and a reptile thermometer to monitor water and air temperature.

Heat Bulb

An incandescent “spot type” bulb should be employed to heat the basking site to 85-90 F. The basking light will usually warm the rest of the enclosure sufficiently (78-82 F). If additional heat is needed, red/black night bulbs or ceramic heater-emitters may be added.

Ultra Violet-B (UVB) Bulb

Red Eared Sliders need daily exposure to UVB light. Your turtle should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0 . Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well.

Natural sunlight is ideal, but be aware that UVB rays do not penetrate glass or plastic, and that fatal overheating can occur quickly.

Substrate

Sliders are best kept in bare-bottomed aquariums; gravel traps dirt, complicates cleaning, and may be swallowed.

Food

Young Red-Eared Sliders are largely carnivorous, but increasingly consume plants as they mature. By adulthood, vegetation forms the bulk of the diet.

Reptomin Food Sticks and trout chow provide excellent nutrition; either can serve as up to 50% of the diet.

Dandelion, kale, mustard and collard greens, romaine, endive and aquarium plants such as Elodea, Anachris, Watersprite and Duckweed should be offered.

Whole freshwater fishes such as minnows and shiners are the best source of calcium (and other valuable nutrients) for turtles. Offer fish at least once weekly, but use goldfishes sparingly (please see this article).

Other important food items that should be a regular part of the diet include earthworms, canned snails and fresh or freeze-dried shrimp and krill. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms and other insects may be offered on occasion.

Although best known to most folks as pets, Sliders also have a fascinating natural history. Please see the articles below to read about their lives in the wild.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Lesser-Known Relatives of the Red Eared Slider

Introduced Sliders Outcompete Native European Turtles

Adopting or Re-Homing Turtles (Useful Links)

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Supplies for Red Eared Sliders and Similar Turtles

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Best Tadpole Foods (Based on my Experiences) – Seeking Additional Suggestions

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 20 Feb 2013 21:53:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Breeding frogs and rearing tadpoles is one of the most enjoyable aspects of our hobby, and becoming ever more important to the survival of many species. In the course of working with numerous species at home and in zoos, I’ve compiled a list of commercial foods that have proven especially useful as tadpole foods. The variety of new food items that have appeared and the many frog species that have been recently bred by hobbyists have convinced me that it’s time to reach out see what new “wonder products” or ideas folks have tried. I have, therefore, highlighted some of the foods I’ve come to rely on, and would greatly appreciate hearing of your experiences with them and others. Thank you.

The Amazing Specialists

While the tadpoles of many commonly bred frogs (i.e. White’s Treefrog, Litoria caerulea) are omnivorous and take a variety of foods, others are specialists and will not survive unless their exacting requirements are met. The tadpoles of African Clawed Frogs, Xenopus laevis and Malayan Leaf Frogs, Megophrys nasuta, for example, are filter feeders, while those of the African Bullfrog, Pyxicephalus adspersus, are as carnivorous as their pugnacious parents. Poison Frog tadpoles of several species feed upon unfertilized eggs deposited by their mother, Goliath Frog, Conraua goliath, tadpoles consume a single species of algae, Fringe-Limbed Treefrog (Ecnomiohyla rabborum) tadpoles eat their father’s skin, Brown Leaping Frog (Indirana semipalmata) tadpoles gnaw on wood (high up in trees!) …the list is fascinating. Please post below if you would like information on these or other species.

General Considerations

In general, omnivorous tadpoles should be provided with as many of the following foods as is practical. As we do not know much about the natural diets of filter-feeding tadpoles, they too should be given a wide variety of finely-ground commercial foods. Horned Frog (Ceratophrys spp.) and other carnivorous tadpoles do best when high protein foods such as freeze-dried bloodworms, shrimp and pre-killed minnows are added to a Reptomin-based diet.

I’ve found that nearly all tadpoles relish kale, and experience has shown it to be a very beneficial addition to their diet. I have, as an experiment, successfully raised American Bullfrog, Lithobates catesbeianus, and Green-and-Gold Bellfrog, Litoria aurea, tadpoles on a diet comprised solely of kale and tropical fish flakes. Soak kale in hot water for 10 minutes or so before using, so as to improve its digestibility.

Reptomin Floating Food Sticks (Tetrafauna)

If I had to choose a single food that fits the needs of most tadpoles, I’d go with Reptomin Floating Food Sticks, which I have relied upon in zoos and my own collection for decades. I’ve had excellent results using this product as 50-75% of the diets of a variety of tadpoles, including American and African Bullfrogs, Green Frogs, European Edible Frogs, American Toads, Wallace’s Flying Frogs, Australian Bell Frogs and Ornate Horned Frogs.

Reptomin contains a variety of animal and plant ingredients, including shrimp, algae and fish meal, wheat, corn and potato. The floating sticks soften quickly, but not so much as to become unavailable to larger tadpoles, sink after becoming water-logged, and can also be ground up and offered to filter feeders. Reptomin is also an excellent food for many adult aquatic frogs, newts, turtles, and invertebrates…I even use it to gut load feeder crickets and roaches. It has crossed over from the pet trade and is now a staple in zoos worldwide. Please see this article for further information on this valuable food item.

Canned and Sun-Dried Freshwater Shrimp (ZooMed)

Shrimp are very numerous in many freshwater environments, and likely play a role in tadpole diets. While marine shrimps and krill have long been available as tropical fish food, freshwater species are difficult to find. I was, therefore, pleased to learn that Zoo Med is now using a fresh water shrimp, Macrobrachium nipponense, in its Canned Shrimp and Sun Dried Red Shrimp products.

Excellent as a high-protein addition to the diets of most tadpoles and very important for carnivorous species, both products are easy to use. Canned Shrimp, being quite “meaty”, is ideal for the voracious tadpoles of African Bullfrogs, Horned Frogs and similar species. Sun Dried Shrimp can be crushed to meet the needs of smaller tadpoles and filter feeders. You can read more about these products here.

Tropical Flakes Fish Food (TetraMin)

As with ReptoMin, tropical fish flakes are highly nutritious and an ideal food for a wide variety of tadpoles. I’ve relied most heavily upon TetraMin’s original Tropical Flakes, and cannot recall any species that has refused it. Developed in 1950, this product can be ground into a powder fine enough even for the tiny filter feeding tadpoles of the Dwarf African Clawed Frog, Hymenochirus curpites, but is also taken by American Bullfrogs and other large species. I also provide it to feeder insects, snails, millipedes, and shrimp (and fish!).

Other flake foods developed for fishes with specific dietary needs (i.e. algae feeders, Cichlids) may also be used to add variety to tadpole diets.

Spirulina Discs (Wardley)

Wardley Spirulina Discs contain blue algae meal, spinach powder and other plant-based ingredients important to the health of nearly all tadpoles. As carnivorous species likely consume some plant material in the wild, I add Algae Discs to both their diets and those of omnivorous/herbivorous tadpoles. Many other foods formulated for plant-eating fishes are also useful tadpole foods.

Earthworm Fish Food Flakes (Zoo Med)

I’ve long championed earthworms as a herp food, and so was interested in trying out Zoo Med’s new Earthworm Flakes. The flakes also contain salmon, shrimp meal and plankton, and are readily consumed by most tadpoles. Further thoughts on this exciting new product can be found here.

Repto Treat Delica Bloodworms (TetraFauna)

Bloodworms, the larvae of midges (or “gnats”, Family Chironomidae), are one of the few small insects available to tadpole keepers.

TetraFauna’s Repto Treat supplies bloodworms encased within a vitamin-enriched gel.

Bloodworms and other aquatic insects form the basis of the food chain in many tadpole habitats, and are almost certainly an important food item. Also, tadpoles consuming Repto Treat will be eating the entire organism, an important consideration if research on adult amphibians is any guide. You can read more about the use of bloodworms as an amphibian food here.

There are many other tadpole food options…please post your ideas and experiences below, and I’ll be sure to share them with my readers and colleagues.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Breeding the Malayan Leaf Frog

Rearing African Clawed Frog Tadpoles

Arboreal, Wood-Eating Tadpoles

Tadpole image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Rainforest Harley

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Best Tadpole Foods (Based on my Experiences) – Seeking Additional Suggestions

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Collared Lizard Captive Care and Natural History

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 08 Feb 2013 15:37:34 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The 8-14 inch-long Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus collaris, is one of North America’s most colorful reptiles. Alert and active by day, Collared Lizards housed in planted desert terrariums make for stunning displays. They also possess distinct personalities, accept gentle handling, and, being relatively easy to breed, are now available in a variety of interesting color phases and patterns. The following information can also be applied to the related but less-commonly kept Leopard Lizard, Gambelia spp.

Taxonomy, Range, and Habitat

Nine species of Collared Lizard have been described. In the pet trade, the name “Collared Lizard” is most frequently applied to Crotaphytus collaris. Five subspecies of Crotaphytus collaris range from the central and southwestern USA to central Mexico. The Eastern Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus c. collaris, is the subspecies most commonly kept in captivity. Its range extends from southern Missouri through northern Arkansas and southwest to central Texas. Different Collared Lizard species hybridize in captivity and the wild.

The related Leopard Lizards (3 species, please see photo) have been reassigned to the genus Gambelia.

Collared Lizards are usually found in rocky deserts, overgrown thorn-scrub and other arid habitats.

Behavior

Wild-caught lizards are difficult to acclimate, but captive-born individuals usually take handing in stride. If threatened, however, they will not hesitate to bite. Collared Lizards can rise up on their hind legs when fleeing from danger, evoking the image of a tiny, colorful T-Rex.   They are extremely fast, and may quickly make use of escape opportunities presented when their enclosures are being serviced.

Collared Lizards are very active…foraging, territorial displays, moving from hot to cooler areas, and digging occupies much of their time. Possibly in response to an “internal clock”, they sometimes refuse food during the winter, even if kept warm (please write in for further information).

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

The Collared Lizard’s active lifestyle demands a great deal of space. Youngsters can be reared in 20 gallon aquariums, while a single adult is best kept in a 30 gallon tank (a properly designed 20 gallon can work, but more space is preferable). A 55 gallon terrarium will accommodate a pair or trio.

Due to the high basking temperatures required, large enclosures are necessary if a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) is to be established. Thermal gradients allow lizards to regulate their body temperature by moving from hot to cooler areas. This behavior, critical to their health, is not possible in small cages.

Collared Lizards are ground-dwelling animals that use rocks as basking sites and perches from which to watch for danger. Rocks should always be placed on the terrarium’s floor so that lizards cannot tunnel beneath them and be crushed in the process. Stacked rocks should be secured to the glass or one another with silicone if tipping is a concern.

In addition to adding greatly to your terrarium’s aesthetic value, live plants will offer a sense of security and provide sight barriers that help to limit aggression. Useful types include Climbing and Lace Aloes, Oxtongue and Snake Plants.

As air flow is especially important for animals native to arid habitats, your terrarium should be equipped with a screen top.

Substrate

A sand/small rock mix is the most natural substrate for Collard Lizards. Although impactions due to swallowed sand are rare, it is best to provide food in large bowls so that sand ingestion is limited. Rocks small enough to be swallowed should be avoided. Hatchlings are clumsy hunters, and tend to swallow a good deal of sand. Newspapers, paper towels or washable cage liners should be used until their skills improve.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Collared Lizards will not thrive if denied daily exposure to high levels of UVB light. Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly. If you use a florescent bulb, choose one designed for desert-dwelling lizards (i.e. the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb) and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it.

Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and also emit beneficial UVA radiation. Be sure to provide shaded areas as well.

Collared Lizards require a basking site temperature of 95-100 F, but must be able to move into cooler areas (78-85 F) as well. Temperatures can dip into the high 70’s at night. Incandescent bulbs may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Humidity should be kept low, and the substrate must be dry at all times.

Companions

Females and youngsters usually co-exist, but groups must be watched as dominant individuals may prevent others from feeding and basking. Males will fight viciously and cannot be kept together.

Feeding

These voracious predators are largely insectivorous, but also take small lizards and snakes on occasion in the wild. Their calcium requirements appear to be quite high. Pink mice are a good calcium source, but should not be offered more than once each 7-10 days. Rodents with fur should be avoided.

Roaches, waxworms, crickets, butterworms, silkworms, calci-worms, super mealworms, hornworms, sow bugs and other commercially-available invertebrates should form the bulk of the diet. Crickets and mealworms alone are not sufficient. Insects should themselves be provided with a nutritious diet for 1-3 days before being offered to your pets.

In order to increase dietary variety, offer your lizards canned grasshoppers, snails and silkworms via tongs. Wild-caught insects, as long as you can recognize dangerous species and avoid pesticide-contaminated areas, should also be offered; moths, beetles, grasshoppers and many others will be readily accepted. Please see this article for additional information on feeding insectivorous lizards.

Wild Collared Lizards consume some vegetation, but captives often reject non-living foods. Adding live insects to a bowl of kale, dandelion and other produce may encourage acceptance.

Food (excepting pinkies) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal, Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product. Vitamin/mineral supplements (i.e. ReptiVite with D3) should be used 2-3 times weekly.

Adults can be offered food 5-7 times weekly, while juveniles should be fed on a daily basis.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Natural History in Arizona (excellent photos)

Stomach Contents Study (Texas)

Fire Management as a Conservation Tool

Collared Lizard and long nosed leopard lizard image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Daniel Schwen
Collared Lizard image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Dakota L

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Collared Lizard Captive Care and Natural History

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The World’s Largest Frog – Working with the Massive Goliath Frog

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 31 Jan 2013 19:47:08 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. As a child, my information on the Goliath Frog, Conraua goliath, was limited to a few brief sentences hidden away in various books, but this was enough to spark my interest. Eventually, a life-sized sculpture of one at the American Museum of Natural History (please see photo) gave me some idea of just how impressive a creature it was, and my desire to learn more intensified. Happily, I found a job at the Bronx Zoo shortly after a group of Goliath Frogs arrived there from Cameroon, and I was able to indulge my passion. One of my new charges spanned 25 inches with legs extended…nothing, not even the enormous African Bullfrogs and Marine Toads (or, for that matter, Leatherback Turtles!) that I had already handled prepared me for the sight of that amazing animal.

The Goliath Frog Exhibit

I first started working with Goliath Frogs in 1983, at which time we knew little about their natural history or captive needs. Unfortunately, not much has changed since, although field research completed in 1985 (Sabater-Pi, Contribution to the Biology of the Giant Frog, Amphibia-Reptilia, 6(2), 143-153) has filled in some of the blanks.

The new Goliath Frogs, collected as adults in Cameroon, were shy and high strung, and prone to wild, injury-producing leaps when disturbed. We assumed, therefore, that the zoo’s noisy, crowded Reptile House would not prove an ideal location for their exhibit. Therefore, the curator commandeered an exhibit at the relatively-ignored Aquatic Bird House. Goliath Frogs are habitat specialists, so their exhibit was arranged accordingly, and outfitted with a waterfall and a swift, rocky stream bordered by dense thickets of live plants. In keeping with what little information was available, the water was maintained at a slightly acidic pH.

Captive Behavior

The frogs settled in nicely, but, despite their size, one had to search long and hard to find them. Although wild adults reportedly bask in the sun, ours rarely left the water by day (I wonder now if UVB would have been helpful…please see below). At night, however, they became quite active – prowling the shoreline and gobbling up Leopard Frogs, their favorite food. I watched them overnight on several occasions, and a bird keeper who lived in the basement of the building (long story!) also kept tabs on their nocturnal wanderings. Unfortunately, breeding behavior was never observed, and this seems to remain true today.

Although field research indicates that invertebrates form 60% of the Goliath Frog’s natural diet, those I cared for favored other frogs over all else. I suspect that crayfish would have been accepted, but these were not regularly available back then.

Webbed Fingers and Toes

The frogs under my care were dark brown above (some field reports describe adults as greenish-brown, and juveniles as greener in color) and white, tinged with light yellow, below. The feet were fully webbed and tabs of skin fringed the fingers, perhaps to assist in swimming or grasping rocks buffeted by swift currents.

Natural History

Size

With a snout-vent length of 13 inches and legs of the same length, the Goliath is by far the longest of all frogs. It also vies for the title of heaviest, although African Bullfrogs and Marine Toads occasionally tie or even exceed the Goliath record of approximately 8 pounds. Considering how few have been accurately measured, even bigger individuals may be out there…if they are not eaten! (please see below).

Range and Habitat

The Goliath Frog occupies an 80 to 100 mile-wide range in Cameroon and the Republic of Equatorial Guinea, West Africa (please see map). Within this tiny area, it is limited to swift, unpolluted, rocky streams bordered by dense equatorial rain forest.

Diet

Field studies are scarce, but indicate that invertebrates comprise at least 60% of the diet. Freshwater crabs, spiders, scorpions, snails, beetles, millipedes and toads (2 species) have been recorded as prey

Goliath Frog tadpoles, which are quite “normal” in size, are believed to feed upon a single plant species for much of their lives.

Reproduction

Limited observations indicate that several hundred eggs are attached to aquatic vegetation in quiet pools among the rapids. The tadpole stage lasts for 2.5 to 3 months.

In common with certain other frogs that inhabit noisy, rushing streams, Goliath Frogs produce no mating calls. It is not known whether they communicate via body posture or hand signals, as do Panamanian Golden Frogs.

Behavior

Juveniles spend most of their time in the water, with just the head exposed. Adults sit on rocks within streams, often in direct sunlight, and seem to adjust their exposure to the sun by changing positions. This apparent basking behavior lasts for up to 35 minutes, after which the frogs spend some time in the water before returning to the rocks.

Goliath Frogs hunt along stream borders at night. There is some evidence that adults maintain distinct hunting territories of 60 to 130 square feet.

Conservation

Collection for the food trade is thought to be the greatest threat, especially now that traps have replaced capture by hand. Logging and stream siltation are also concerns. One recent study documented a 50% decline in the adult population over a 15 year period.

In years past, Goliath Frogs were exported for use in zoos, the pet trade and even frog-jumping contests. I recall seeing an individual that had been entered into one such contest in California. Given their high-strung nature, I was not surprised to note that its snout was bleeding and showed evidence of past injuries.

Goliath Frogs are classified as Endangered by the IUCN. Part of their range lies within Equatorial Guinea’s Monte Alen National Park, but information as to what protection this affords is difficult to come by.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Goliath Frog Video and Facts

Goliath Frog Photos and Information

Goliath Frog Field Study

Goliath Frog image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Ryan Somma
Zambian Landscape image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Florence Devouard

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The World’s Largest Frog – Working with the Massive Goliath Frog

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Monitor Lizard Care, Natural History and Behavior – An Overview

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:04:03 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I’ve had the good fortune of caring for 15-20 monitor species during my zoo career. From the diminutive Storr’s to the massive Water, Lace, Crocodile and Komodo Monitors, all have instilled in me the feeling that they were, somehow, “more complicated” than other reptiles. Indeed, recent studies have confirmed that they are, among lizards, highly advanced. While some are too large for the average household, several moderately-sized and even dwarf varieties are being bred by hobbyists, and all make fascinating and responsive captives.

The following information can be applied to the care of Savannah, Black Tree, Nile, Merten’s and most other monitors. However, details vary; please post below for information on individual species, and be sure to add your own thoughts and observations on monitor lizard care.

Natural History

Seventy-three monitor species (Family Varanidae) range across Asia, Africa and Australia. Nile Monitors (Varanus niloticus), introduced to south Florida, are a major environmental concern there. Lace Monitors (V. varius) and other large speciesare usually the dominant predators in their habitats. While most dwell in warm regions, Desert Monitor (V. griseus) populations in Kazakhstan are adapted to Vermont-type winters.

The 8 inch-long Short-Tailed Monitor (V. brevicauda), is the smallest member of the group. The Komodo Dragon (V. komodoensis), the world’s largest lizard, occasionally tops 10 feet in length.

Monitors take prey ranging in size from termites to deer. The recently-discovered Sierra Madre Forest Monitor (V. bitatawa) and the Philippine Monitor (V. olivaceus) are unique in consuming fruit, while the Komodo Dragon has attacked and killed people.

In 2005, it was discovered that several species produce venom that affects their prey’s blood pressure and clotting ability.

Five new species, one topping 6 feet in length, have been described in the past several years (please see articles below).

Behavior

Monitors are ever-alert, and easily startled by noises and sudden movements. They vary greatly in personality – some become quite docile, while others remain wary of people. All are very responsive, and quickly learn to anticipate regular feeding times.

Crocodile and Water Monitors (V. salvadorii and V. salvator), and other large species, can be dangerous and are not suitable for most private collections. Adult Water Monitors are, pound-for-pound, one of the strongest animals I’ve ever restrained (I was the Bronx Zoo’s head mammal keeper for a time, and so thought I could handle most anything!). All monitors can inflict severe bites and scratches. The mouth and tail (which is whipped about in self-defense), should never be allowed near one’s face. Operating policies in most zoos require that 2 experienced keepers be present when large monitor exhibits are entered.

New monitor facts frequently come to light. Recently, a Black Tree Monitor was observed using its front foot to extract an insect from a crevice; this behavior has not been documented in any other lizard.

Housing

The Enclosure

Hatchlings and small species, such as the 14-inch-long Storr’s Monitor (V. storri), may be housed in 30-55 gallon aquariums.

Merten’s Monitors (V. mertensi) and others in the 3-4 foot range are best kept in homemade cages measuring at least 4x4x4 feet. Height is an important consideration for arboreal species such as Black Tree Monitor (V. beccarii). Savannah Monitors (V. exanthematicus) and others that approach 5 feet in length need correspondingly larger quarters; modified cattle troughs are a useful option.

The 6-7 foot-long Nile, Lace, Crocodile and Water Monitors require room-sized enclosures with drainable pools.

Predator-proof outdoor cages are the ultimate in “luxury accommodations” (some folks use modified bird aviaries). If a safe, escape-proof room is available, out-of-cage exercise time can make a real difference in your lizard’s quality of life.

Furnishings

Stout branches, wooden shelves and secure hide boxes should be arranged according to each species’ individual needs (please post questions below). A water bowl large enough for bathing is essential; the aquatic Merten’s Monitor should be provided with a large swimming area.

Substrate

Sand is suitable for Desert Monitors and others native to arid habitats, while cypress mulch works well for forest dwellers such as Green Tree Monitors (V. prasinus). I’ve found Crocodile Monitors prone to foot abrasions when kept on concrete, and have since used rubber mats or rubber-coated floors for all large species.

Although impactions due to swallowed substrate are rare, food should be provided in large bowls or via tongs, so that ingestion is limited.

Light

Monitors need daily exposure to UVB light. Use a high-output bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0, and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well.

Heat

Temperature should be maintained at a range of 79-85 F for most species. Incandescent bulbs should be used to create a basking site of 90-95 F. Ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” may be employed to provide heat after dark. Under-tank heaters may be used to create a warm basking surface.

Provide your monitor with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas.

Humidity

Storr’s and Savanna Monitors, and other desert/grassland adapted species, develop health problems in damp enclosures, while rainforest dwellers such as Blue Tree Monitors (V. macraei) need access to humid and dry areas.

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together, and females sometimes battle for dominance. Juveniles may get along, but they must be watched carefully.

Feeding

Strict attention to diet is essential if you are to succeed with monitors. Nutritional deficiencies can develop quickly, and are difficult to treat. High calcium intake and exposure to UVB light is especially important for young animals.

Small, largely insectivorous species (i.e. Blue and Green Tree Monitors) need a highly-varied diet comprised of roaches, crickets, butterworms, hornworms, super mealworms, wild-caught insects and other invertebrates; pink mice can be offered 1-2 times weekly. Canned snails and grasshoppers, and hard-boiled eggs, can be used to provide variety.

Nile Monitors and similar species fare well on mice and rats alone; whole freshwater fishes are an excellent rodent-alternative for Water and Merten’s Monitors.

Food (other than vertebrates) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal or Zoo Med ReptiCalcium. Vitamin/mineral supplements such as Reptivite should be used 2-3 times weekly.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Range Information for all Species

Fruit-Eating Monitor, Red-Headed Monitor and Water Monitor Relatives discovered.

Monitor Lizards (notes on individual species)

Nile Monitor image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by D. Gordon E. Robertson
Water Monitor image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Deror Avi

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Monitor Lizard Care, Natural History and Behavior – An Overview

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