That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information

Certain lizards, notably Leopard Geckos and Bearded Dragons, are almost mainstream pets these days, but it still seems that many people purchase their first pet without fully considering all that is involved. In the course of my work as a reptile keeper at the Bronx Zoo, I prepared a list of important points that, if considered beforehand, will greatly improve life for both lizard and lizard owner. Please be sure to post any questions, or additional factors that you have found to be important, below. Please also see the articles linked below for my “best pet lizard” recommendations.

 

Captive-Bred vs. Wild Caught: This is much easier to check today than in years past. Lizards born in captivity do not drain wild populations, are less likely to harbor parasites or diseases, and are generally easier to handle than are their wild relatives. Please post below if you need help in this area.

 

Handle-ability and other Pet Qualities: Lizards will not seek human companionship. The words of legendary snake expert Bill Haast have some applicability to lizards as well: “You can have a snake for 30 years, but leave the cage open, and it’s gone – and it won’t come back unless you have a mouse in your mouth”!

 

Lizards definitely adjust to captivity, and some species accept handling better than others, but they should not be expected to be “friendly”.

 

The “It Doesn’t Do Anything” Factor: Ideally, the new lizard owner will be interested in her or his pet for its own sake. But most of us wish to see how it lives, what it does, and so on. Many lizards, especially well-fed pets, are about as active as the infamous “pet rock”, although there are notable exceptions.

 

If you want action, consider a small species that actively forages for food, and keep it in a large, naturalistic terrarium. For example, a male and several female Green Anoles in a well-planted 55 gallon tank will provide you with infinitely more to observe than will an adult Green Iguana in a commercial iguana cage outfitted with a single shelf.

 

Cost: Your pet’s initial purchase price is but one part of the cost of lizard ownership, which also includes electricity use, veterinary care (as expensive as dog/cat care), food, enclosure, and so on.

 

With some planning, you can easily limit costs. A Flying Gecko needs only a 10 gallon aquarium with a low-wattage basking bulb, and a diet of small live insects…much less expensive than a 6 foot-long Water Monitor kept in a room-sized cage supplied year-round with powerful heat lamps and UVB bulbs and feeding upon rats and other rodents.

 

Veterinary Care: Reptile-experienced veterinarians are difficult to find in many regions. It is a grave but common mistake to embark on lizard ownership before locating a veterinarian, or to imagine that even the hardiest of species will not require medical care.

 

Safety: All lizards, even the shyest and smallest, will bite when threatened, and they may react to scents, vibrations and other cues that we cannot perceive. Even minor bites should be treated by a doctor, to avoid infection, tetanus and other complications. Large monitors are best reserved for zoos or highly experienced keepers with the space and financial means to properly accommodate them.

 

While easily managed with proper hygiene, Salmonella, which is generally carried by all reptiles, presents grave risks to certain individuals. Please see the article linked below and contact your doctor for advice.

 

Space: While Leopard Geckos and certain other lizards can make due with moderately-sized enclosures, you’ll see much more of interest if your pet has ample room to explore and forage. Be sure to research (feel free to post below) your lizard’s ultimate size and typical growth rate. And please remember – zoos will not accept unwanted pets and, even if native, they cannot be released into the wild!

 

Time Commitment: Depending upon the species and size of your pet, its care can range from a short, thrice-weekly task to a major daily chore. Long term care should also be considered – several popular pet species regularly live into their teens, while Leopard Geckos may reach 30 years of age!

 

Most Lizards Need a Highly-Varied Diet: No insectivorous lizard will thrive long-term on a diet comprised solely of crickets and mealworms, even if these foods are powdered with supplements. I’ve done well by relying heavily upon wild-caught invertebrates during the warmer months.  Useful food species that you can buy include roaches, butterworms, calciworms, silkworms, hornworms and sow bugs.  Herbivorous lizards are easier to accommodate, but attention must still be given to providing species-specific variety.

 

Some monitors do well on diets comprised solely of mice and rats, but many of these are too large to be accommodated in typical private collections.

 

 

 

Further Reading

Feeding Insectivorous Lizards

 

Pet Lizards: Large, Small and Colorful Insectivores

In the past 20 or so years, the Crested Gecko (Correlophus/Rhacodactylus ciliatus), has gone from “presumed extinct” to being such a common pet that it may actually rival the Leopard Gecko in popularity! In addition to their interesting ways, innate “charm”, and extreme hardiness, these New Caledonian natives are also proving extremely easy to breed in captivity. Yet as I receive questions and review related articles and internet forums, it seems that some confusion exists on this topic. As Crested Geckos can provide a wonderful introduction to lizard breeding, today I’d like to review how best to get started. Also, since even un-mated females can produce eggs, and may suffer fatal impactions if not properly cared for when gravid, it is important for all owners to understand the basic principles of Crested Gecko reproduction.

 

Do I Have a Pair?

Crested Geckos show sexual dimorphism earlier than do many other lizards. By age 6 months or so, males will exhibit two easily-seen bulges near the cloaca, evidence of the internal male sex organs, or hemipenes. Small femoral and pre-anal pores may be visible even earlier. However, these may not be evident to folks who have not seen a good many mature males of this or related gecko species.

 

Unlike many lizards, Crested Gecko pairs may be housed together year-round. However, females that are not in breeding condition may be injured by males during unsuccessful copulation attempts. A bit of biting is normal at this time, but in small terrariums, or those lacking cover in the form of logs, plants, etc., injuries may occur.

 

Reproductive Age

Captive reptiles of many species often reach adult size faster than they might in the wild, but this does not always mean that breeding is possible or advisable.

 

Female Crested Geckos may become sexually mature by age 8 months or so, but it is best to forestall breeding until they are at least 1 – 1½ years old. Most successful long-term breeders use 40 grams as a safe weight for first-time breeding females. Males may be bred at the same or a slightly younger age, and are generally a bit lighter in weight than females.

 

Stimulating Reproduction

There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of detailed field studies of Crested Gecko reproduction. Judging from the temperature profile of their habitat, they most likely breed throughout New Caledonia’s warm season (November to April), when temperatures average 74-85 F.

 

Pets kept in temperate regions are usually stimulated to breed by local seasonal changes, beginning as the weather warms in spring and ceasing in autumn. In tropical and semi-tropical regions, well-fed females may continue to deposit eggs throughout the year. This can deplete calcium stores and otherwise impact long-term health. Cooling geckos to 68 F by day and 65 F by night, and reducing the daytime period to 10 hours, has been useful in stopping reproduction (however, this must be done gradually…please post below if you need further information).

 

Egg Deposition

Female Crested Geckos deposit clutches of 2 eggs. They usually produce multiple clutches, separated by approximately 30 days (but this number varies widely), each breeding season. Three to 5 clutches are generally considered as being typical for well-fed pets, but up to 10 have been reported.

 

In naturalistic terrariums, eggs may be secreted beneath the substrate at the base of plants, cork bark, or other cover. Gravid females are sometimes seen digging in several spots before deciding on a nest site.

 

Even if nesting sites are available in the terrarium, boxes or caves provisioned with a mix of moist sphagnum moss and soil should always be provided. This will simplify egg retrieval (if they are used, of course!) and will assure that there will always be a suitable nest site. Female geckos that cannot find a site to their liking may retain their eggs, which will eventually lead to a fatal infection (egg peritonitis).

 

Also, bear in mind that female Crested Geckos are able to store sperm. Those purchased as adults, or separated from a male, may still produce fertile eggs. As mentioned above, females that have not mated may also develop eggs, which must be deposited.

 

Stay alert for signs that a female may be egg-bound – lethargy, swollen abdomen, straining – and see a veterinarian if this occurs.

 

Egg Incubation

Crested Gecko eggs have been successfully incubated under a wide range of conditions. Here again they vary from many reptiles, as the eggs are extremely resilient and develop well at unusually-low (by lizard standards) temperatures.

 

As with most eggs, I favor course vermiculite or pearlite as an incubation medium. A water: substrate mix of 1:1 by weight works well.  The eggs may be incubated in an room with an appropriate temperature range, or a commercial reptile egg incubator.  Please see the article linked below for information on a simple method of calculating and tracking water content.

 

I haven’t found anything definitive concerning the effect of incubation temperatures on hatchling sex, but several anecdotal notes report that females predominate at temperatures of 77-80 F, males at 82 F, and mixed sexes at 70-76 F (the range most favored by experienced breeders). Incubation temperatures exceeding 84 F are said to kill the embryos.

 

Incubation periods range from 65-120 days, depending upon temperature and, in all likelihood, humidity levels and other factors.

 

Please post below for information on rearing young Crested Geckos.

 

Further Reading

Crested Gecko Substrates: Avoiding Impactions

New Caledonia Giant Gecko Care

The Dumeril’s or Brown Rough-Necked Monitor (Varanus dumerilii) is still collected from the wild, but captive breeding is increasing, and will, I hope, soon be the rule rather than the exception. Although the black and orange hatchlings are hard to resist, Dumeril ownership should not be entered into lightly. Strong and active, adults may top 4.5 feet in length, and are best reserved for those with adequate space and experience. That being said, Dumeril’s Monitors are reputed to be somewhat easier to handle than other similarly sized species. My own experience bears this out, but individual personalities vary greatly…caution and respect for their powerful jaws and sharp claws is a must. For those up to it, this is definitely a species worth considering, as it is little studied in the wild and unprotected across much of its range (and a very interesting creature as well!).

 

Description

The Dumeril’s Monitor sports a “typical” monitor build and averages 3-4 feet in length, with some individuals approaching 5 feet. Hatchlings and very young individuals are brilliantly clad in black and orange. Adults are attractively-marked in various shades of brown and tan. Extremely sharp claws (even by monitor standards!) assist it in climbing.

 

Range

The Dumeril’s Monitor is found across a huge range that extends from southern Myanmar and Thailand through western Malaysia and much of Indonesia to Singapore. The population on Singapore was long believed extinct, with no reported sightings since 1935. However, a single individual was collected in the island’s Nee Soon Swamp Forest in 2008, spurring hopes that it is still hanging on there.

 

Habitat

The Dumeril’s Monitor inhabits lowland forests, coastal mangrove swamps and swamp forests. Village and farm outskirts are sometimes colonized, but the effects of habitat development on this species have not been studied. It is at times highly arboreal, but also frequently forages on the ground and in the shallows of rivers and swamps.

 

Enclosure

Like most of their relatives, Dumeril’s Monitors are quite active, and will not thrive in close quarters. Adults require custom-built cages measuring at least 6 x 4 x 6 feet.

 

Cypress mulch or eucalyptus bark may be used as a substrate. Shy by nature, they are best provided with numerous caves, cork bark rolls and hollow logs in which to shelter, and stout climbing branches for climbing. Some individuals prefer sheltering above ground (wild individuals reportedly utilize tree hollows), so a cork bark roll or large nest box positioned among the branches would be ideal. A water bowl large enough for soaking should always be available…the ideal Dumeril’s enclosure would feature a large, drainable pool.

 

The cage should be located in a quiet, undisturbed area of the home, as Dumeril’s Monitors are very aware of their surroundings, and easily stressed.

 

Temperature

Dumeril’s Monitors fare best when afforded a temperature gradient of 78-85 F; nighttime temperatures should not dip below 75 F. The basking site should be kept at 110-120 F. Incandescent bulbs may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

 

Provide your monitor with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. In small or poorly ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

 

Humidity

Humidity should average 70-85%, but dry areas must be available. A commercial reptile mister will be helpful if your home is especially dry.

 

Light

While there is some evidence that UVB exposure may not be essential if the animal is fed properly, I always provide it to monitors in zoo exhibits and at home. In most situations, UVB exposure is the safest option. If a florescent bulb is used (Zoo Med bulbs are ideal), be sure that your pet can bask within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and provide beneficial UVA radiation as well.

 

Diet

The few available studies indicate that wild Dumeril’s Monitors take a wide variety of prey animals, including grasshoppers, roaches, and other large insects, frogs, crabs, snails, bats, rodents and other small mammals, birds and their eggs, turtle eggs, and fish. Populations living in mangrove swamps seem to favor crabs and snails…in my experience, crabs and crayfish always elicit a vigorous feeding response from captives.

 

I do not use a rodent-only diet for these or other monitors from similar habitats (i.e. the Black Rough-Necked Monitor). Youngsters should be fed largely upon roaches, super mealworms, earthworms, snails, hornworms and other invertebrates, along with small whole fishes, un-shelled shrimp, fiddler and green crabs, crayfish and squid. Pinkies or small mice may be provided once weekly, and hard-boiled eggs can be used on occasion. All meals (other than fishes, crabs and rodents) offered to growing monitors should be powdered with calcium, and a high-quality reptile vitamin/mineral supplement should be used 3x weekly. I favor ReptiVite and ReptiCalcium.

 

Rodents and whole fish can comprise 50% of the adult diet, with a variety of large insects, earthworms, hard-boiled eggs, crayfish, crabs, shrimp, snails, and similar foods making up the balance. Calcium and vitamin/mineral supplements should be used 1-2x weekly. Large food items should be avoided; even where adult monitors are concerned, mice are preferable to small rats.

 

Temperament

Although not a species for beginners, Dumeril’s Monitors adjust well to captivity when given proper care, and make fine, long-lived pets. Initially shy, some learn to trust gentle caretakers, while others – especially wild-caught individuals – remain wary. A large, well-furnished cage will provide the security that is essential if they are to become approachable.

 

In common with all monitors, they are capable of inflicting serious injuries with their powerful jaws, long tails and sharp claws. Thick leather gloves should be worn when handling Dumeril’s Monitors, as even tame individuals leave deep scratches with their claws in the course of their normal movements.

 

Breeding

A single male can be housed with 1 or 2 females, but they must be watched carefully. The nesting area should be enclosed (i.e. a large tub or plastic storage container within a wooden box equipped with an entrance hole) and stocked with 2-3 feet of a slightly moist mix of sand, top soil and peat moss.

 

We have a good deal to learn about captive reproduction. Success (and failure) has been reported under a wide variety of conditions. Please post below for detailed information on pairing adults and incubating the eggs.

 

 

 

Further Reading

 

Monitor Ownership: Important Considerations

Monitor Learning Abilities

 

It wasn’t so long ago that one had to search through many books to find a photo of a Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus), and seeing a live individual in a zoo was impossible. In fact, the species was presumed extinct in the early 1990’s! Today, these bizarre New Caledonian natives are captive bred in huge numbers, and are popular with reptile keepers worldwide. However, while their husbandry needs are well-understood, and rather easy to meet, substrate choice can be problematic. Judging by questions I’ve received lately and feedback from my zookeeper colleagues, intestinal blockages (“impactions”) caused by substrate ingestion are an important concern.

 

Coconut Husk: Good and Bad Points

Coconut husk, the most commonly recommended Crested Gecko substrate, has a down side. I’ve had great success using this product at home and in zoo exhibits housing tarantulas, centipedes, millipedes, land crabs, beetles and other invertebrates. However, it is commonly swallowed by reptiles and amphibians during the course of feeding – more often, it seems, than occurs with other substrates. Coconut husk has been implicated in most of the Crested Gecko impactions I’ve recently been informed of.

 

As is the case for other sometimes troublesome substrates, many keepers use coconut husk for Crested Geckos without incident. How do we explain this? Through discussions with veterinarian colleagues at the Bronx Zoo, I’ve learned that there are many variables which affect the passage of foreign materials through the body. The nature of the diet (and, of course, the swallowed material), hydration levels, calcium intake (calcium assists in muscle contractions, which may be needed to expel ingested substrate), general health and vigor and many other factors are involved. It seems best to err on the side of caution.

 

My Top Pick for Naturalistic Terrariums

I favor a mix of topsoil and sphagnum moss as a substrate for Crested Geckos and for many other species as well. Perhaps because of the size or consistency of the moss strands, sphagnum seems rarely to be ingested. I’ve successfully kept a great many amphibians and some reptiles on sphagnum moss alone. Moss that is taken into the mouth is, in the incidents I’ve observed, easily expelled.

 

Soil seems like it “should be” troublesome, but that has not been my experience…I hope to look into the reasons for this in the future. I use soil collected from wooded, pesticide free areas, but you can also purchase bagged “organic” or “chemical-free” soil. Be sure to avoid products that contain white Styrofoam-like spacing material.

 

By using roughly 2 parts soil to 1 part sphagnum moss, you can achieve a mix that holds moisture well and does not easily become compacted. This also serves as an ideal planting medium for many live plants…and Crested Geckos truly come into their own in complex, well-planted terrariums.

 

I often establish colonies of sowbugs, millipedes, springtails and other leaf-litter invertebrates in terrariums with moist substrates; earthworms can also be used if temperatures are not too high. In addition to aerating the soil and consuming feces, dead leaves, and shed skin, sowbugs and others make healthful additions to the diets of many herps.

 

The Base Layer

Zoo Med Hydroballs, preferably but not necessarily covered by a layer of plastic screening, should be used as the base layer of your Crested Gecko terrarium. They are a bit more effective than the broken clay flower pots favored by us dinosaurs in assisting with drainage, preventing soil impaction, and maintaining high humidity levels.

 

Washable Terrarium Liners

Those seeking an extra measure of safety may wish to consider terrarium liners. Potted plants camouflaged with rocks or sphagnum moss can be used to create a naturalistic effect.

 

I’ll address the specifics of Crested Gecko care and breeding in the future; until then, please post any questions or observations below.

Hi, my name is Frank Indiviglio. I’m a herpetologist, zoologist, and book author, recently retired from a career spent at several zoos, aquariums, and museums, including over 20 years with the Bronx Zoo.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.   Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

 

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. Thanks, until next time, Frank.

 

Further Reading

New Caledonian Giant Gecko Care

Choosing the Best Substrates for Reptiles and Amphibians

Sailfin Dragons (4 species in the genus Hydrosaurus) are among the most spectacular of all the world’s lizards. Even after a lifetime of working with reptiles in zoos and the field, the sight of one stops me cold – and I know of no herp enthusiast who reacts otherwise. While certainly not suitable for beginners, the experienced keeper with ample space will be hard pressed to find a more exciting prospect. And with a new species recently described, and wild populations of others in jeopardy, serious attention to captive breeding is urgently needed.

 

Description and Natural History

The Philippine Sailfin Lizard, Hydrosaurus pustulatus, was the species most commonly seen in the pet trade until the mid-1990’s, when exports were restricted. Stoutly built and sometimes nearing 4 feet in length, males are clad in green, neon purple, and reddish blue, and bear huge crests along the back and tail. DNA studies of individuals in Manila animal markets revealed that 2 genetically-distinct species are currently classified as H. pustulatus. The newly-described species has not yet been named. Please see the article linked below for further information.

 

The Amboina Sailfin, H. amboinensis, native to Indonesia and New Guinea, now often appears in pet markets in the Philippines. Weber’s Sailfin Lizard, H. weberi, is limited in distribution to the Indonesian islands of Ternate and Halmahera.

 

Sailfin Dragons are found near water, frequenting forested river edges, swamps, and coastal marshes.

 

Behavior

Sailfin Dragons are alert and somewhat high-strung. Pets will flee from noises, cats, dogs, large birds and other threats. Injuries during such escape attempts are common. While some calm down and accept gentle handling, wild caught individuals may remain unapproachable for years.

 

Status in the Wild

A recent survey by University of Oklahoma herpetologists (Biological Conservation, V 169, Jan, 2014) revealed that only 10% of the Philippine Sailfin Dragon’s remaining habitat is protected. The rest is impacted by logging, coastal fisheries, illegal collection, and other activities.

 

The Terrarium

Sailfin Dragons forage on the ground but are otherwise arboreal. They will be stressed if kept in low enclosures that do not allow climbing opportunities.

 

Youngsters may be raised in 30-55 gallon aquariums. In common with Asian Water Dragons and Basilisks, they often run along the glass and are prone to snout and jaw abrasions. Cardboard or other solid borders along the lower 3-4 inches of the tank’s sides will help to limit such injuries.

 

Larger individuals must be housed in custom-made cages. A single adult will need a home measuring approximately 5 x 4 x 5 feet. More height – 6 feet or so – is ideal. In suitable climates, predator-proof outdoor enclosures, including pre-fabricated bird aviaries, can be fashioned into “luxury accommodations”.

 

Numerous wide, stout branches and shelves should be provided. Sturdy live plants (Pothos, Philodendron, Spider Plants) and/or artificial plants should be added to provide a sense of security. Wild Sailfin Dragons always live near heavy cover, and will be ill-at-ease in bare terrariums. One or two sides of the enclosure should be solid as opposed to screened, again to place the animals at ease (this is standard in zoo exhibit construction – many animals fare poorly when open to view from all directions). Never position rocks below branches, as startled individuals may jump to the floor and be injured.

 

A water bowl large enough for bathing must be provided. Custom built cages with filtered pools are ideal.

 

Substrate

The substrate should be capable of holding moisture and soft enough to cushion falls when hungry or frightened Dragons leap to the ground. Cypress mulch is ideal; soft sphagnum moss can be added if falls are frequent. Avoid fine substrates such as peat and coconut husk, which tend to lodge around the eyes and jaws.

 

Light

Sailfin Dragons will not thrive without a source of UVB radiation. Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly. If a florescent bulb is used (the Zoo Med 10.0 UVB Bulb is ideal), be sure that all animals can bask within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and provide beneficial UVA radiation as well. A 12:12 hour day-night cycle should be maintained.

 

Heat

The ambient air temperature should range from 80-90 F, with a basking spot of 110-120 F; night-time temperatures can dip to 75 F.  Incandescent bulbs should be used to maintain these temperatures. Provide your pets with the largest enclosure possible, so that a varied temperature gradient can be maintained. A ceramic heater or red/black reptile “night bulb” can be used after dark.

 

Humidity

Sailfin Dragons require humidity levels of approximately 80%, and the chance to dry off as well. The terrarium should be misted twice daily. Large bathing pools and reptile misters can be used to increase humidity.

 

Companions

Males are territorial and will fight savagely. Females often co-exist, but may also battle for dominance.

 

Feeding

Sailfin Dragons need a varied diet. Those fed crickets and mealworms alone quickly develop serious developmental disorders. Whole vertebrates such as minnows, shiners, crayfish or small bait crabs, and pink mice represent the best means of meeting their high calcium requirements; use goldfishes only sparingly, as a steady diet has been implicated in health problems in other reptiles. Pink mice should be fed less often than fishes (once each 7-14 days), and furred rodents are best avoided.

 

Roaches, earthworms, crickets, butterworms, silkworms, super mealworms and other commercially-available insects, should be offered regularly. In order to increase dietary variety, try canned grasshoppers, snails and silkworms. Cicadas, beetles, grasshoppers, moths and other wild-caught insects should be provided as well; please see the article linked below for further information on safely collecting insects.

 

Young Sailfin Dragons are primarily carnivorous, but add greens and fruit to the diet as they mature. Captives, however, often reject non-living foods. Mixing live mealworms into a bowl of kale, dandelion, squash, carrot, mango, peaches and other produce may encourage them to sample the salad.

 

Depending upon the type of food, Sailfin Dragons can be fed daily, every-other-day or thrice weekly; young fare best when fed frequently. Food (other than vertebrates) should be powdered with Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product. Vitamin/mineral supplements such as ReptiVite should be used 2-3 times each week.

 

While ingested substrate is usually passed, food is best offered in bowls to limit potential problems.

 

Health Considerations (Pet Owner and Pet)

Salmonella bacteria, commonly present in reptile and amphibian digestive tracts, can cause severe illnesses in people. Handling an animal will not cause an infection, as the bacteria must be ingested. Salmonella infections are easy to avoid via the use of proper hygiene. Please speak with your family doctor concerning details, and feel free to write me for links to useful resources.

 

Unfortunately, captive breeding remains the exception rather than the rule. Wild-caught individuals will be afflicted with various parasites and should be seen by an experienced veterinarian shortly after acquisition.

 

Sailfin Dragons are prone to snout and jaw injuries that result from rubbing against glass and screening. Wounds may become infected, and should be treated immediately.

 

Fine/gritty substrate may lodge along the gums and in the eyes.

 

 

 

Further Reading

 New Sailfin Dragon Species Found in Pet Market

Feeding Insectivorous Lizards