That Reptile Blog » Lizards

The Best Diet for Uromastyx Lizards – a Herpetologist’s Thoughts

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 15:33:34 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Bulldog-like faces, calm dispositions, and fascinating behaviors – not to mention the stunning colors of many species – place Uromastyx Lizards high on the “must have” lists of serious lizard fans and zoos alike. Also known as Dab Lizards or Spiny-Tailed Mastiguerres, North African and Egyptian Uromastyx Lizards (Uromastyx acanthinura and U. aegypticus) first arrived on the US pet scene in the early 1990’s. I’d had some prior experience with these and several others through my work with the Bronx Zoo, but our ability to successfully keep and breed them was limited. Today we have learned much about their unique nutritional requirements, and several of the 15 described species are regularly bred by hobbyists. The following information regarding the best diet for Uromastyx may be applied to Egyptian, Indian, Ornate, Sudanese, Mali, Moroccan and most other varieties; please post below for detailed advice on individual species.

Don’t “Kill them with Kindness”!

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Nadja Pöllath

Uromastyx Lizards dwell in harsh habitats, and have evolved to consume a diet that is high in fiber and relatively low in nutrients. In the wild, they feed mainly upon tough grasses and herbaceous plants. A diet that is too rich (i.e. high in fruit or insects) can kill them as quickly as will one lacking essential nutrients. As I’ve learned from caring for animals as diverse as giant anteaters and proboscis monkeys, one must feed specialists carefully…they will not thrive on a diet that might be perfect for closely-related species from different habitats.

The Ideal Diet

A wide variety of nutritious plants should form the bulk of the diet of all Uromastyx species. Approximately 80% of their food intake should be a mix of collared, mustard and turnip greens, kale, endive, escarole, cilantro, dandelion, bok choy, romaine and other dark green produce, along with a small amount of squash and green beans. Spine-free prickly pear cactus (Opuntia) pads, sold for human consumption, should be offered when available. Avoid cabbage and spinach, and limit broccoli, as these may react with some nutrients in a way that renders them unavailable to the lizards. Grassland Tortoise Pellets, dried split peas, dried lentils and other beans, almonds and other nuts, and parakeet seed mix should be added to the salad. Adults can be fed 5-7 times weekly, juveniles daily.

Flowers, Grasses and Other Plants

Flowers such as hibiscus, honeysuckle, Rose of Sharon, rose and dandelion, and various clovers, weeds, grasses and other native plants, are also readily accepted, and can provide important dietary variety; please post below for information on suitable wild plants and toxic species.

Insects

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Mickey Samuni-Blank

Insects should be used only as a rare treat, or perhaps to induce a reluctant feeder or habituate a shy individual to your presence. Any insects that are offered should be small in size, as Uromastyx Lizards seem especially prone to intestinal blockages. Although all young and many adult Uromastyx Lizards favor insects, their frequent inclusion in the diet has been linked to health problems. Hopefully we will learn more in time; until then, please post your thoughts and observations below.

Supplements

All meals should be powdered with Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product. A vitamin supplement such as ReptiVite should be provided to well-nourished individuals once weekly.

Water

Highly adapted to arid habitats, properly-fed Uromastyx Lizards usually obtain sufficient water from their diet. As a safety measure, the terrarium should be misted twice daily, so that water may be lapped from rocks and other surfaces. A shallow bowl can be offered as well, but it should be removed after an hour or so to reduce spillage. Newly-imported and poorly-nourished individuals are prone to dehydration; please post below for further information.

Uploaded to Wikipedia by en:User:Webwheeler

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible. Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio.

The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:06:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Like most lifelong animal keepers, I consider myself to be a fairly good judge of humidity levels in the home terrariums and zoo exhibits under my care. But when I began working in new buildings equipped with state-of-the-art hygrometers (humidity gauges), I quickly realized that I had much to learn. I was especially surprised to discover how widely humidity levels can vary within even a small enclosure, and how this can affect every facet of an animal’s life. The accurate, easy-to-use humidity gauges now available offer us the chance to provide better care to our charges and perhaps to uncover important new details about their lives.

Recent Innovations in Humidity Monitoring

Over the past several decades, hobbyists and zoos have greatly expanded the number of rare and delicate species that can be kept and bred in captivity. Many of these successes have been due to an increased understanding of the roles that UVB, temperature, diet and other such factors play in their lives.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Luc Viatour

Humidity levels have also been taken into account by serious animal owners, but this topic has been given less attention than others. This is partially because many reptiles, and some amphibians and invertebrates, can meet their needs by soaking in a water bowl or retreating to a moist shelter. But the real obstacle has been the unavailability of affordable hygrometers designed for use with animals. Happily, humidity gauges that fit just about every terrarium and budget are now available, and all are very simple to use (since I can do it!).

Areas of Special Concern

While all animals are to some degree affected by humidity levels, certain captives require closer monitoring than others. Humidity levels are crucial when most species are shedding/molting. Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, hermit crabs, mantids and other invertebrates easily become, as we say, “stuck in the molt” when humidity levels are too low. While we can sometimes assist them in this situation, most die.

Reptiles and amphibians usually survive dry molts, but problems ranging from fungal/bacterial infections beneath old skin to digit loss and retained eye caps may result. Poison frogs and other small, highly active amphibians, and those that remain in the open when resting, as do most treefrogs, are especially at risk from overly-dry conditions. Please see the articles below for further information on herp and invertebrate shedding concerns.

Humidity plays an important role in activity levels, cutaneous respiration, reproduction, immune system function, skin health and a wide variety of other processes. With so many amphibians in dire need of captive breeding these days, I believe it is critical that we begin to record our observations concerning humidity levels. Please consider using a hygrometer and relaying your thoughts by posting below; I’ll be sure to pass the information along, thanks.

The Zilla Humidity and Temperature Digital Gauge

This is my favorite gauge for average to large terrariums. The separate probes for temperature and humidity attach to the glass via suction cups, allowing for easy movement so that various areas of the terrarium (cave, basking site, etc.) can be monitored. I find the thin, 59 inch-long wires connected to the probes to be especially valuable. In smaller enclosures, the wires can be rolled up and secured with a twist-tie. The unit itself measures only 4 x 1 ½ inches, and is quite unobtrusive. It remains outside the terrarium, and features a built-in stand and a notch for wall mounting.

The Zilla Gauge monitors a humidity range of 10-99% and temperatures from -58 F to 158 F (if your pet requires conditions outside of those ranges, it likely belongs in a zoo!). “Comfort”, “Wet” and “Dry” messages are displayed at certain readings. While these are general in nature and will not apply to all species, many hobbyists find them useful. Temperatures can be displayed in either Fahrenheit or Celsius.

The unit also features an alarm, which can function as a reminder to check the terrarium or administer medications (if you sleep as lightly as I, it might also serve as an alarm clock!).

The Zoo Med Dual Humidity Gauge and Thermometer

Although marketed for use with hermit crabs, this small (3” x 1 ½”) gauge is ideal for small to moderately-sized terrariums housing most any species. Despite being quite inexpensive, it is accurate and stands up well to both damp and hot conditions.

The temperature and humidity levels are displayed side-by-side on brightly-colored, easy-to-read dials. “Dry”, “Optimum” and “Wet” ranges (for hermit crabs) are shown in different colors. The gauge attaches to glass with a sturdy Velcro strip.

Being colorful and simple to read, the Zoo Med Gauge is a great way to introduce youngsters to the concept of monitoring and recording environmental conditions. I plan to present several to my 5-year old nephew (shown here examining his “pet” mosquito larvae, much to his mom’s chagrin!) for use with his fire salamanders and domino roaches.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:25:19 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Gaily clad in brilliant, neon-hued colors, Day Geckos (Phelsuma spp.) are among the most desirable of all lizard pets, so here is a short article about Day Gecko care. Many are hardy, long-lived, and relatively simple to breed…but only if they are housed in a properly-designed habitat. Active and alert, these cautious animals fare poorly in bare enclosures, but are ideally suited for life in naturalistic, planted terrariums. The security provided by dense plantings and well-placed branches will put Day Geckos at ease and allow you to view a wide range of fascinating behaviors.

Setting up the Terrarium

Day Geckos are highly arboreal and must have climbing opportunities. “High-style” aquariums make fine homes. A pair or trio of Spotted, Yellow-Throated or other small species can be kept in a 15-20 gallon aquarium. A 30-55 gallon tank will accommodate the same number of Standing’s, Madagascar or Giant Day Geckos. Always opt for the largest terrarium possible.

Photo uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Manuel Werner, Nürtingen, Germany

Day Geckos need spacious enclosures that mimic their natural habitat. Live plants such as Pothos and Philodendron will provide visual barriers between tank-mates and a sense of security. Rolled cork bark and hollow bamboo sections make ideal hideaways and perching sites, and should be arranged both horizontally and vertically.

Be sure to establish plenty of basking sites near heat and UVB bulbs, as dominant individuals may exclude others from these important areas.

The terrarium’s screen lid must be tightly secured with clamps.

Substrate

A mix of potting soil, cypress mulch and sphagnum moss is ideal.

Light

Day Geckos will not thrive without a source of UVB light (but some notable exceptions are known; please see article below). Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

Your geckos should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb; the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb, which I have used at the Bronx and Staten Island Zoos, has been shown to out-perform other florescent models. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well. Be sure to provide shaded areas.

A daytime period of 12-14 hours should be established.

Heat

Ambient temperatures of 82-88 F, with a basking spot of 90-95 F, will suit most (please post below for information on individual species).

Incandescent spotlights may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Provide your pets with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. In small or poorly ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

Humidity

Most Day Geckos are rainforest dwellers and do best in humid surroundings. Their terrarium should be misted at least twice daily. If your home is especially dry, consider using a small reptile fogger to raise the humidity levels in the terrarium (please see photo).

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together. Females are territorial, and must be watched carefully. Pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) and youngsters may co-exist in large enclosures, but be sure to check dominant individuals do not prevent others from feeding and basking.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Collared Lizard Captive Care and Natural History

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 08 Feb 2013 15:37:34 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The 8-14 inch-long Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus collaris, is one of North America’s most colorful reptiles. Alert and active by day, Collared Lizards housed in planted desert terrariums make for stunning displays. They also possess distinct personalities, accept gentle handling, and, being relatively easy to breed, are now available in a variety of interesting color phases and patterns. The following information can also be applied to the related but less-commonly kept Leopard Lizard, Gambelia spp.

Taxonomy, Range, and Habitat

Nine species of Collared Lizard have been described. In the pet trade, the name “Collared Lizard” is most frequently applied to Crotaphytus collaris. Five subspecies of Crotaphytus collaris range from the central and southwestern USA to central Mexico. The Eastern Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus c. collaris, is the subspecies most commonly kept in captivity. Its range extends from southern Missouri through northern Arkansas and southwest to central Texas. Different Collared Lizard species hybridize in captivity and the wild.

The related Leopard Lizards (3 species, please see photo) have been reassigned to the genus Gambelia.

Collared Lizards are usually found in rocky deserts, overgrown thorn-scrub and other arid habitats.

Behavior

Wild-caught lizards are difficult to acclimate, but captive-born individuals usually take handing in stride. If threatened, however, they will not hesitate to bite. Collared Lizards can rise up on their hind legs when fleeing from danger, evoking the image of a tiny, colorful T-Rex. They are extremely fast, and may quickly make use of escape opportunities presented when their enclosures are being serviced.

Collared Lizards are very active…foraging, territorial displays, moving from hot to cooler areas, and digging occupies much of their time. Possibly in response to an “internal clock”, they sometimes refuse food during the winter, even if kept warm (please write in for further information).

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

The Collared Lizard’s active lifestyle demands a great deal of space. Youngsters can be reared in 20 gallon aquariums, while a single adult is best kept in a 30 gallon tank (a properly designed 20 gallon can work, but more space is preferable). A 55 gallon terrarium will accommodate a pair or trio.

Due to the high basking temperatures required, large enclosures are necessary if a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) is to be established. Thermal gradients allow lizards to regulate their body temperature by moving from hot to cooler areas. This behavior, critical to their health, is not possible in small cages.

Collared Lizards are ground-dwelling animals that use rocks as basking sites and perches from which to watch for danger. Rocks should always be placed on the terrarium’s floor so that lizards cannot tunnel beneath them and be crushed in the process. Stacked rocks should be secured to the glass or one another with silicone if tipping is a concern.

In addition to adding greatly to your terrarium’s aesthetic value, live plants will offer a sense of security and provide sight barriers that help to limit aggression. Useful types include Climbing and Lace Aloes, Oxtongue and Snake Plants.

As air flow is especially important for animals native to arid habitats, your terrarium should be equipped with a screen top.

Substrate

A sand/small rock mix is the most natural substrate for Collard Lizards. Although impactions due to swallowed sand are rare, it is best to provide food in large bowls so that sand ingestion is limited. Rocks small enough to be swallowed should be avoided. Hatchlings are clumsy hunters, and tend to swallow a good deal of sand. Newspapers, paper towels or washable cage liners should be used until their skills improve.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Collared Lizards will not thrive if denied daily exposure to high levels of UVB light. Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly. If you use a florescent bulb, choose one designed for desert-dwelling lizards (i.e. the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb) and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it.

Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and also emit beneficial UVA radiation. Be sure to provide shaded areas as well.

Collared Lizards require a basking site temperature of 95-100 F, but must be able to move into cooler areas (78-85 F) as well. Temperatures can dip into the high 70’s at night. Incandescent bulbs may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Humidity should be kept low, and the substrate must be dry at all times.

Companions

Females and youngsters usually co-exist, but groups must be watched as dominant individuals may prevent others from feeding and basking. Males will fight viciously and cannot be kept together.

Feeding

These voracious predators are largely insectivorous, but also take small lizards and snakes on occasion in the wild. Their calcium requirements appear to be quite high. Pink mice are a good calcium source, but should not be offered more than once each 7-10 days. Rodents with fur should be avoided.

Roaches, waxworms, crickets, butterworms, silkworms, calci-worms, super mealworms, hornworms, sow bugs and other commercially-available invertebrates should form the bulk of the diet. Crickets and mealworms alone are not sufficient. Insects should themselves be provided with a nutritious diet for 1-3 days before being offered to your pets.

In order to increase dietary variety, offer your lizards canned grasshoppers, snails and silkworms via tongs. Wild-caught insects, as long as you can recognize dangerous species and avoid pesticide-contaminated areas, should also be offered; moths, beetles, grasshoppers and many others will be readily accepted. Please see this article for additional information on feeding insectivorous lizards.

Wild Collared Lizards consume some vegetation, but captives often reject non-living foods. Adding live insects to a bowl of kale, dandelion and other produce may encourage acceptance.

Food (excepting pinkies) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal, Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product. Vitamin/mineral supplements (i.e. ReptiVite with D3) should be used 2-3 times weekly.

Adults can be offered food 5-7 times weekly, while juveniles should be fed on a daily basis.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Monitor Lizard Care, Natural History and Behavior – An Overview

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:04:03 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I’ve had the good fortune of caring for 15-20 monitor species during my zoo career. From the diminutive Storr’s to the massive Water, Lace, Crocodile and Komodo Monitors, all have instilled in me the feeling that they were, somehow, “more complicated” than other reptiles. Indeed, recent studies have confirmed that they are, among lizards, highly advanced. While some are too large for the average household, several moderately-sized and even dwarf varieties are being bred by hobbyists, and all make fascinating and responsive captives.

The following information can be applied to the care of Savannah, Black Tree, Nile, Merten’s and most other monitors. However, details vary; please post below for information on individual species, and be sure to add your own thoughts and observations on monitor lizard care.

Natural History

Seventy-three monitor species (Family Varanidae) range across Asia, Africa and Australia. Nile Monitors (Varanus niloticus), introduced to south Florida, are a major environmental concern there. Lace Monitors (V. varius) and other large speciesare usually the dominant predators in their habitats. While most dwell in warm regions, Desert Monitor (V. griseus) populations in Kazakhstan are adapted to Vermont-type winters.

The 8 inch-long Short-Tailed Monitor (V. brevicauda), is the smallest member of the group. The Komodo Dragon (V. komodoensis), the world’s largest lizard, occasionally tops 10 feet in length.

Monitors take prey ranging in size from termites to deer. The recently-discovered Sierra Madre Forest Monitor (V. bitatawa) and the Philippine Monitor (V. olivaceus) are unique in consuming fruit, while the Komodo Dragon has attacked and killed people.

In 2005, it was discovered that several species produce venom that affects their prey’s blood pressure and clotting ability.

Five new species, one topping 6 feet in length, have been described in the past several years (please see articles below).

Behavior

Monitors are ever-alert, and easily startled by noises and sudden movements. They vary greatly in personality – some become quite docile, while others remain wary of people. All are very responsive, and quickly learn to anticipate regular feeding times.

Crocodile and Water Monitors (V. salvadorii and V. salvator), and other large species, can be dangerous and are not suitable for most private collections. Adult Water Monitors are, pound-for-pound, one of the strongest animals I’ve ever restrained (I was the Bronx Zoo’s head mammal keeper for a time, and so thought I could handle most anything!). All monitors can inflict severe bites and scratches. The mouth and tail (which is whipped about in self-defense), should never be allowed near one’s face. Operating policies in most zoos require that 2 experienced keepers be present when large monitor exhibits are entered.

New monitor facts frequently come to light. Recently, a Black Tree Monitor was observed using its front foot to extract an insect from a crevice; this behavior has not been documented in any other lizard.

Housing

The Enclosure

Hatchlings and small species, such as the 14-inch-long Storr’s Monitor (V. storri), may be housed in 30-55 gallon aquariums.

Merten’s Monitors (V. mertensi) and others in the 3-4 foot range are best kept in homemade cages measuring at least 4x4x4 feet. Height is an important consideration for arboreal species such as Black Tree Monitor (V. beccarii). Savannah Monitors (V. exanthematicus) and others that approach 5 feet in length need correspondingly larger quarters; modified cattle troughs are a useful option.

The 6-7 foot-long Nile, Lace, Crocodile and Water Monitors require room-sized enclosures with drainable pools.

Predator-proof outdoor cages are the ultimate in “luxury accommodations” (some folks use modified bird aviaries). If a safe, escape-proof room is available, out-of-cage exercise time can make a real difference in your lizard’s quality of life.

Furnishings

Stout branches, wooden shelves and secure hide boxes should be arranged according to each species’ individual needs (please post questions below). A water bowl large enough for bathing is essential; the aquatic Merten’s Monitor should be provided with a large swimming area.

Substrate

Sand is suitable for Desert Monitors and others native to arid habitats, while cypress mulch works well for forest dwellers such as Green Tree Monitors (V. prasinus). I’ve found Crocodile Monitors prone to foot abrasions when kept on concrete, and have since used rubber mats or rubber-coated floors for all large species.

Although impactions due to swallowed substrate are rare, food should be provided in large bowls or via tongs, so that ingestion is limited.

Light

Monitors need daily exposure to UVB light. Use a high-output bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0, and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well.

Heat

Temperature should be maintained at a range of 79-85 F for most species. Incandescent bulbs should be used to create a basking site of 90-95 F. Ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” may be employed to provide heat after dark. Under-tank heaters may be used to create a warm basking surface.

Provide your monitor with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas.

Humidity

Storr’s and Savanna Monitors, and other desert/grassland adapted species, develop health problems in damp enclosures, while rainforest dwellers such as Blue Tree Monitors (V. macraei) need access to humid and dry areas.

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together, and females sometimes battle for dominance. Juveniles may get along, but they must be watched carefully.

Feeding

Strict attention to diet is essential if you are to succeed with monitors. Nutritional deficiencies can develop quickly, and are difficult to treat. High calcium intake and exposure to UVB light is especially important for young animals.

Small, largely insectivorous species (i.e. Blue and Green Tree Monitors) need a highly-varied diet comprised of roaches, crickets, butterworms, hornworms, super mealworms, wild-caught insects and other invertebrates; pink mice can be offered 1-2 times weekly. Canned snails and grasshoppers, and hard-boiled eggs, can be used to provide variety.

Nile Monitors and similar species fare well on mice and rats alone; whole freshwater fishes are an excellent rodent-alternative for Water and Merten’s Monitors.

Food (other than vertebrates) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal or Zoo Med ReptiCalcium. Vitamin/mineral supplements such as Reptivite should be used 2-3 times weekly.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

2012’s New Reptile and Amphibian Species – Snakes, Frogs and Lizards, Which is Your Favorite?

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 10 Jan 2013 14:45:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. An amazing array of newly-discovered reptiles and amphibians grabbed our attention this past year. The unexpected discoveries of an undescribed Leopard Frog in New York City and a Rainbow Skink in an Australian backyard reminded us that wonderful surprises surround us, if only we take the time to look and learn. Frogs that dye human skin yellow, snakes that specialize in eating only eggs or snails, iridescent skinks sporting tails twice their body length…the list is simply astounding. Today I’ll highlight a few that have especially captivated me; please post your own favorites (whether covered here or not) below.

Australian Rainbow Skinks

2012 was designated as the Year of the Lizard by several conservation organizations, so I’ll lead off with 3 new skinks that turned up in Queensland, Australia. The brilliant colors of breeding males lend these tropical lizards their common names (please see article below).

The Elegant Rainbow Skink, Carlia decorata, was well known to folks in Townsville, Queensland, as a common garden resident. Upon taking a closer look, however, herpetologists realized that the colorful creature was an undescribed species.

The Orange-Flanked Rainbow Skink, C. rubigo, was first collected in the arid scrub and open woodlands of eastern-central Queensland.

The Whitsunday Rainbow Skink, C. inconnera, is limited in range to 4 small offshore islands. Formerly considered to be a subspecies of a mainland relative, genetic studies have revealed that it warrants full species status.

“No to the Mine” Snail-Eating Snake, Sibon noalamina

Western Panama’s Tabasara Mountain Range yielded this year’s most “politically-active” species. Its species’ name means “No to the mine”, and was given in support of the indigenous Ngobe People’s battle against the development of their montane rainforest home.

I’ve always been fascinated by snakes that specialize in hunting snails and other unusual (for snakes) prey. This video of a related Sibon species consuming a snail illustrates its unique feeding strategy. Panama’s newly-described Snail-Eating Snake is a Coral Snake mimic, and its bold coloration changes with maturity; I’m wondering if it mimics more than one species over its lifetime?

New York City Leopard Frog

This year’s “most unlikely” new species must surely be the Leopard Frog that was discovered in NYC (shattering, incidentally, my belief that I have observed and kept all herps native to my hometown!).

Uncovered by a sharp-eared Rutgers University student who noted an unfamiliar call one evening on Staten Island, the frog was at first thought to be a hybrid of the Northern Leopard Frog and the Southern (which may be extinct in NY). But it is indeed distinct – and its range, centered (in years past) in the Yankee Stadium area, falls entirely within NYC and its suburbs. I’ve written more about this urban frog here.

Cambodian Kukri, Oligodon kampucheaensis

Oddly-shaped fangs that resemble the distinctive Nepalese kukri dagger lend this unique group of snakes their common name. The unusual teeth are used to slice open bird and reptile eggs as they are being swallowed.

The newly-described species is quite beautiful, being rusty-red in color and bearing black-bordered white rings (please see article).

Yellow Dyer Rain Frog, Diasporus citrinobapheus

This tiny (0.8 inch), brightly-colored frog delivered a big surprise – the first person to collect one came away with yellow-dyed hands! So far, chemical tests of the dye have revealed no toxins, but frog secretions are very complex, so I’m keeping an eye out for further information.

In common with related species, the Yellow Dyer Rain Frog has no tadpole stage, and is native to montane rainforests in western Panama.

Iridescent Cambodian Skink, Lygosoma veunsaiensis

The skin of this newfound skink flashes a rainbow of colors when illuminated by sunlight. But one must look long and hard to see this creature in the sun (or at all!), as it is highly-adapted to life below ground. Lygosoma’s legs are unusually short, and the tail is twice the length of the body (please see photo). Herpetologists consider its discovery to be a stroke of good luck…related species are so secretive that that most are known from but a few specimens.

The skink is a rainforest dweller, and was found in the Veun Sai-Siem Pang Conservation Area, home also to a newly-described gibbon and bat.

Chocoan Blunt-Headed Vine Snake, Imantodes chocoensis

As can be seen from the accompanying photo, snakes in the genus Imantodes have huge eyes bulging from heads that seem too large for their pencil-thin necks. But their odd structure suits them well as arboreal, nocturnal hunters of frogs and lizards. Armed with excellent vision, they move by literally flinging themselves through the bushes, and can lash out at prey with blinding speed while anchored to a branch.

The group’s newest member was discovered in northeastern Ecuador. In common with related species, it is rear-fanged and clad in cream, copper, brown, and black. Herpetologists are puzzled at its lack of a loreal scale, which is present in all other Colubrid snakes.

Other Recently-Discovered Amphibians and Reptiles

A number of other fascinating creatures made herp headlines in the recent past. Among the most surprising have been arboreal tadpoles that eat bark, a fanged frog that ambushes birds, large, colorful monitors, and a new Map Turtle from the USA.

Many, many other new reptiles and amphibians have been described in recent years…please let me know your favorites by posting below.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Chameleons as Pets – 5 Things You Should Know Before Getting a Chameleon

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 26 Dec 2012 16:32:00 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Perhaps the most fantastically-bizarre of all lizards, chameleons have long been popular in private and public collections. However, the world’s 195 species, ranging in size from the 1.5 inch-long Pygmy Leaf Chameleons (Rhampholeon spp.) to the 30 inch Oustalet’s Chameleon (Furcifer oustaleti), often prove to be difficult captives. Although great strides have been made, chameleon husbandry remains challenging, if intriguing. The following points, drawn from notes taken during my years working at the Bronx Zoo, are useful to consider before embarking on a chameleon-keeping venture.

Chameleons Do Not Like Company – Human or Otherwise!

Wolverines and Tasmanian Devils are more sociable than the average chameleon! Highly territorial, both males and females will fight among themselves and with the opposite sex. Pairs may get along in large, heavily-planted enclosures, but they must be watched closely.

Chameleons abhor handling, and are best considered as animals to observe only. Don’t worry, for when properly kept, chameleons will reward you by exhibiting fascinating behaviors…but this will not be the case if you disturb them with unnecessary handling!

Chameleons are Easily Stressed, but Often Appear Content

Here we come to one of the most important and misunderstood concepts in chameleon husbandry. Chameleons are slow-moving and instinctively freeze or drop to the ground when threatened. They are easy to grab and often remain in place when deposited on an arm or shoulder, leading us to believe that all is well.

Some individuals may react to handling by changing color or gaping, but they do not snap, thrash about, run off, or drop their tails as do many other lizards. Inexperienced owners often misinterpret the lack of vigorous protest as an “acceptance” of handling. However, be assured that your pet’s stress hormones are surging, and that this will have a deleterious effect on its immune system and health.

Being relatively inactive, chameleons may seem blissfully unaware of what is going on outside their cages. Again, their reliance on camouflage limits overt signs of agitation. However, they have keen eyesight and miss nothing; indeed, the mere sight of a dominant individual can stress others, even if the animals are housed separately.

Chameleons Need a Highly-Varied Diet

No chameleon will thrive on a diet comprised of 2-3 insect species…even if all food items are nutrient-loaded and powdered with supplements. I’ve done well by relying heavily upon wild-caught invertebrates. Moths, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, tree crickets, katydids, harvestmen, earwigs, “smooth” caterpillars and a variety of others are accepted (far more enthusiastically than crickets!) by all. Please see these articles for tips on collecting insects.

Useful commercially-available insects include roaches, crickets, butterworms, super mealworms, caliworms, silkworms, hornworms and locusts. Feeders should be provided a healthful diet before use. Canned grasshoppers, snails, and silkworms may be offered via feeding tongs. Please see this article for further information.

Chameleons Need Large, Well-Ventilated Cages

Despite being relatively sedentary, chameleons need lots of space and plentiful sight barriers, and are stressed by small, bare cages. Specific requirements vary by species and individual, but be prepared for surprises. I’ve had Parson’s and Oustalet’s Chameleons that remained ill at ease until relocated to room-sized exhibits. In fact, some chameleon fanciers dedicate entire rooms of their homes to a pair, or even an individual. Ample climbing space and ventilation is also critical to their well-being.

Custom-made cages, commercial screen terrariums and modified bird aviaries, stocked with branches, vines and live plants, are among the best options for captive chameleons. Heavy plant cover will put your chameleon at ease, and you’ll see more of interest than would be the case in a bare enclosure.

Avoid Wild-Caught Chameleons

I remember well the days when only wild-caught chameleons were available in the USA. Collection and shipment wrecked havoc on the delicate creatures, and even with the best of care and veterinary attention, losses were high. Today, certain popular species, including the Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis), are still collected more often than bred.

Wild-caught chameleons are usually plagued by a variety of health concerns, including dehydration, depressed immune systems, parasites, retained eggs, malnutrition and shipment-related injuries. Please see this article, and be sure to purchase only captive-bred animals.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Bearded Dragon Health – Atadenovirus (Wasting Disease, Star-Gazing)

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 28 Aug 2012 15:14:59 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Bearded Dragons are among the hardiest of all lizards, and very well-suited to captivity. However, a serious viral disease to which they are prone is well-established among populations in theUSA and several other countries. Unfortunately, Atadenovirus infections, also known as Wasting Disease and Star Gazing, are incurable and difficult to detect by symptoms alone. Related viruses afflict Blue-Tongued Skinks, Fat-Tailed Geckos, Leopard Geckos, chameleons and other reptiles, birds and mammals, but infections are most commonly diagnosed in Bearded Dragons.

Infection and Transmission

Atadenoviruses are highly contagious, and spread via body contact and improperly cleaned tools or terrarium accessories. Female Bearded Dragons may also pass infections along to their young. There is evidence that some Bearded Dragons harbor the virus while remaining otherwise healthy, and that sensitivity varies among individuals that do become ill.

Testing

Atadenovirus is easily detected via DNA analysis of a cloacal swab. Due to the possibility that Bearded Dragons may appear fine while harboring the virus, testing should be considered for newly-acquired animals. This is, of course, especially important to those who breed Bearded Dragons or keep large collections.

Symptoms

Detection via symptoms alone is difficult, because individual animals vary greatly in their responses to Atadenovirus infection. Also, the most common symptoms – weight loss, loose stools/constipation, lethargy and swellings – are typical of a great many unrelated ailments. Lethargy is especially confusing, as some Bearded Dragons enter a state of semi-dormancy during the winter, even if kept warm. Bearded Dragon owners often write me with this concern, but, unfortunately, I must respond that there is no sure way to distinguish dormancy from Atadenovirus without a DNA test (please see article below).

If the virus progresses to the nervous system, the lizard may exhibit more definitive symptoms, such as tail tip and toe twitching. The Star Gazing moniker arises from the arching position (head and tail pointing upwards; please see photos here) adopted by some individuals with nervous system involvement. Atadenovirus infections may also weaken the immune system, as victims often become ill from bacteria, intestinal parasites and other seemingly unrelated micro-organisms. Organ damage has also been reported.

Due to their size and secretive ways, young Bearded Dragons present an especially difficult problem, with infected animals often dying for no apparent reason. Hatchlings and youngsters that fail to gain weight and are inactive (taking normal variability into account) should be checked for Atadenovirus.

Treatment

Unfortunately, we currently have no drugs capable of eliminating Atadenovirus from Bearded Dragons. Treatment typically consists of supporting the immune system through antibiotics (to kill off other micro-organisms), nutrition and supplements. Especially resilient individuals may suffer occasional severe reactions, during which time treatment is helpful, but live otherwise normal lives. In general, however, Atadenovirus infections are fatal; an experienced veterinarian should be consulted as to the best course of action.

Please write in if you need further information or assistance in locating a veterinarian.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos – Breeding and Care

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 15 Aug 2012 15:41:30 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Like most lizard enthusiasts, I was mesmerized by Flying Geckos at first glance. Early on, both Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos (Ptychozoon lionotum and P. Kuhli) were rare in the trade, but by the early 1980’s I found them readily available and integrated both into a Southeast Asian exhibit I maintained at the Bronx Zoo. I had some breeding success, but today’s stock remains largely wild caught. Because they are both inexpensive and bizarre, Flying Geckos are often purchased by relatively inexperienced keepers. But while they can be hardy, prolific breeders, Flying Gecko ownership requires some forethought; hopefully the following information will prepare you.

Description

The 7 Flying Geckos in the genus Ptychozoon are among the most unique of the world’s 900+ gecko species. Both the Malayan and Kuhl’s reach 6-8 inches in length and are distinguished by skin folds (along the head, flanks and toes) that enable them to glide through the air. A heavily-serrated tail assists in breaking up their outline. In overall appearance, I can best describe them as “amazingly bark-like”.

Their color varies through a wide range of tans, grays and browns, and the skin is marked with an array of blotches and stripes. Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos are difficult to differentiate by eye; the Kuhl’s tongue is often tipped in black, but I cannot say whether this always holds true.

Range and Habitat

The Malayan Flying Gecko inhabits Myanmar, Thailand, India, Malaysia and neighboring islands. The range of Kuhl’s Flying Gecko extends from southern Thailand through Java, Sumatra, Malaysia, Borneo and Sulawesi, and overlaps that of its cousin extensively. Whether or not they hybridize, or utilize different niches within the same range, has not been researched. Other geckos are, however, known to partition habitats in species-rich areas; this article describes an interesting study carried out on Borneo.

Flying Geckos favor rainforests and other humid, densely-foliated habitats. However, they have colonized farms and human habitations, and it is from such areas that most are collected.

Captive Care

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos may be kept and bred under similar conditions. As most in the trade are wild-caught, stress, mites and internal parasites are a major concern. As concerns medication, I’ve found them to be quite delicate; be sure that you use a well-experienced veterinarian to examine all new arrivals.

The Terrarium

Although wild-caught females may initially produce eggs, sustained captive breeding is only possible if the appropriate environment and diet is provided. A spacious terrarium – a 20-30 gallon tank for a trio – is essential. “Tall” style aquariums are ideal. Flying Geckos spend most of their time on tree trunks, where their camouflage may be used to great advantage, and will be stressed if forced to use other resting sites. Corkbark or native tree bark must be available, and the cage should be densely-planted (live plants are best). Flying Geckos will not thrive in bare enclosures.

Temperature, Humidity and Light

Humidity should be maintained at 75-80% for most of the year (see “Breeding”), with a temperature gradient of 75-85 F. Nighttime temperatures can dip to 70 F. A mix of sphagnum moss and a forest bedding, serves well as a substrate.

Although Flying Geckos are nocturnal, wild individuals often spend their days in open situations, on tree trunks, and may therefore be exposed to UVB. Low doses of UVB, as provided by a ZooMed 2.0 bulb, are likely beneficial. Overly-bright environments should be avoided, so choose plants that do well in low light (pothos, snake and cast iron plants). Incandescent heat bulbs can be used to maintain temperatures; red/black night bulbs (which will assist in nighttime observations) or ceramic heater-emitters can be used after dark.

Diet

Flying Geckos specialize in hunting flying and arboreal insects, and will not fare well on crickets alone. Housefly cultures, silkworms, roaches, moths and other insects are essential to their well-being. The comments in this article on Red-Eyed Treefrog Diets are largely applicable; please write in if you have any questions on this critical aspect of husbandry.

Breeding

Mature males may be distinguished from females by their pre-anal pores and the two scaly skin-folds that outline the cloaca.

Males fight savagely, and cannot be housed together. A single male may be kept with multiple females. Gecko skin is delicate, and bite injuries may occur during courtship and copulation; check also for dominance battles among females.

Stimulating Reproduction

In the wild, breeding likely extends through much or all of the rainy season (March to May through October, depending upon locale). Increasing the frequency and duration of daily misting in the spring will encourage captives to come into breeding condition. Novel food items and increased dietary variety should also be introduced at this time. Some have reported that removing and re-introducing a male will stimulate interest.

Lowering temperature and humidity slightly during the fall and winter may also be useful, but is not critical (please write in for details).

The Eggs

Gravid female swell noticeably, and their 2 eggs will be visible through the skin in time. A well-fed female may produce 3, or possibly more, clutches of 2 eggs each. I’ve recorded inter-clutch intervals of 2-3 weeks, but this time period is likely affected by many factors.

Eggs are affixed to bark, glass or stout plant leaves. Be sure to provide ample nesting sites that can be removed for incubation, as the eggs are often broken during attempts to peel them from the deposition surface. Corkbark slabs are ideal, as they can be cut to fit incubators if need be.

Incubation

Suitably-sized plastic terrariums, with the ventilation ports sealed, make ideal incubators. Eggs under my care generally hatched in 60-80 days at 82-85 F, but temperatures of 70-90 F, and incubation times of 30-90 days, have been reported.

Eggs deposited on glass are difficult to remove; I’ve incubated House and Day Gecko eggs on glass by affixing a cup containing damp sphagnum moss over the eggs, but this is not an ideal situation.

The Young

Hatchlings average a bit over 2 inches in length and may be reared on fruit and other flies, small crickets and roaches, silkworms, moths, termites and similar insects (please see diet comments above).

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Reptile & Amphibian Conservation – Protection Sought for 53 US Natives

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 07 Aug 2012 15:28:16 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I’ve recently posted information concerning a petition that seeks Endangered Species Act protection for 53 US herps. Many readers applauded the news, but some were concerned about potential limitations on their ability to keep protected species. As they correctly pointed out, responsible pet owners have made important contributions to the conservation of many species (please see article below). In the course of my work as a zoologist, I’ve often dealt with federal, state and international permits, and continue to assist zoos with related issues. Today I’d like to explain a bit more about this proposal, which was championed by the Center for Biological Diversity, and how it may impact target species in the wild and captivity.

The ESA: Pros and Cons for Herp Keepers

Although federal red tape complicates life for private herp owners, the Endangered Species Act (ESA) remains our nation’s most powerful conservation tool. A recent study revealed that the ESA is 99% effective in preventing extinctions…once a species is listed, its survival is almost guaranteed. Benefits to such species extend beyond permit requirements – habitat protection, research funds, compilation of recovery plans and other possibilities arise. This post lists frequently asked questions concerning the ESA.

In common with most herpetologists, I started out as a hobbyist, and I maintain a personal collection to this day. The efforts of volunteer wildlife rehabilitators, zoo docents, “citizen scientists” and hobbyists have been of enormous help in my work, and I’ve acknowledged this in many articles and all of my books. Private ownership of ESA-protected animals remains possible, as well it should, but restrictions apply; please write in if you need assistance. I remain in favor of responsible herp ownership…please see this article for more thoughts on the contributions of private herp owners.

The Scope of the Problem

Both here and abroad, reptiles and amphibians face emerging diseases, habitat loss, introduced species, collection for the food and pet trades, pollution and other threats. Turtles and amphibians are considered to be in a crisis situation by many conservationists.

As of 2011, the IUCN listed 1,900 amphibian and 664 reptile species as endangered or threatened with extinction. As many as 200 amphibians may have become extinct in recent years as a result of Chytrid infection (please see this article). But this is the mere tip of the iceberg, as many species have not been evaluated, and we lack even basic information on at least 25% of the world’s herps.

Only 58 reptile and amphibian species are protected under the ESA. Herpetologists estimate that 82% of the USA’s vulnerable herps have no protection at all; please see this article for information on rare but unprotected native amphibians.

The Center for Biological Diversity’s Proposal

Filed on July 11, 2012, the CBD’s ground-breaking proposal spans 450 pages and seeks ESA protection for 53 herps in 45 states (you can see a state-by-state list here). The largest effort of its kind, the proposal is supported by E.O. Wilson, Thomas Lovejoy and other eminent biologists.

Included among the animals of concern are 24 salamanders (an often-neglected group), 6 frogs/toads, 10 lizards, 6 turtles and 7 snakes, some of which have lost 95% of their original habitat. I was pleased to see that both well-known (Wood Turtles, Florida Pine Snakes) and little-studied (Short-Tailed Snake, Green Salamander) species were included.

Following is a sample of the species proposed by the CBD. I think you’ll be surprised at the lack of protection currently given to most, despite the fact that they have long been in obvious decline.

Alligator Snapping Turtle, Macroclemmys temmincki

The Bronx Zoo’s 205-pound Alligator Snapper, who was under my care for many years, has inspired the passions of legions of turtle enthusiasts (please see photo). But zoos may be the only place to see these magnificent creatures in the near future. Although likely extinct in 5 of the 14 states within their range, and absent from 95% of their habitat, Alligator Snappers are still legally harvested for food in some places!

Cascade Cave Salamander, Eurycea latitans

Found only in several caves in one Texas county, this neotenic aquatic salamander rarely if ever sees the light of day. It is extremely sensitive to water quality, and threatened by a falling water table and pollution of the underground streams it inhabits. Although protected in Texas, nothing has been done to preserve its tiny habitat.

Key Ring-Necked Snake, Diadophis punctatus acricus

This colorful, 6-inch-long snake is limited to shoreline limestone ridges on several of Florida’s Keys. Residential development has claimed 98% of its habitat, and introduced Fire Ants threaten the remaining populations. It is protected from collection (not a factor in its rarity) but not from habitat loss.

Western Spadefoot Toad, Spea hammondii

Eastern Spadefoot Toads have always amazed me with their ability to appear at breeding ponds, seemingly out of nowhere, after rainstorms. I’ve not found their western cousin, and may never do so if it receives only the limited protection offered by its current status as a “species of special concern”. The Western Spadefoot’s survival is hampered by a small natural range and a dependence on vernal pools. Found only in grassy scrub habitats from San Francisco to northern Baja, Mexico, this unusual burrower has lost 80% of its habitat.

Yuman Desert Fringe-Toed Lizard, Uma rufopunctata

Skin-fringed toes enable this desert-dweller to skim over the wind-blown sand. These toes, along with over-lapping eyelids and sealable nostrils and ears, render it among our most unique lizards. Although this species’ Arizona range can be measured in acres, the Yuman Desert Fringe Toe lacks state protection.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

That Reptile Blog » Lizards

The Best Diet for Uromastyx Lizards – a Herpetologist’s Thoughts

Don’t “Kill them with Kindness”!

The Ideal Diet

Flowers, Grasses and Other Plants

Insects

Supplements

Water

Further Reading

The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

Recent Innovations in Humidity Monitoring

Areas of Special Concern

Further Reading

Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

Setting up the Terrarium

Further Reading

Collared Lizard Captive Care and Natural History

Taxonomy, Range, and Habitat

Behavior

Housing

Feeding

Further Reading

Monitor Lizard Care, Natural History and Behavior – An Overview

Natural History

Behavior

Housing

Feeding

Further Reading

2012’s New Reptile and Amphibian Species – Snakes, Frogs and Lizards, Which is Your Favorite?

Australian Rainbow Skinks

“No to the Mine” Snail-Eating Snake, Sibon noalamina

New York City Leopard Frog

Cambodian Kukri, Oligodon kampucheaensis

Yellow Dyer Rain Frog, Diasporus citrinobapheus

Iridescent Cambodian Skink, Lygosoma veunsaiensis

Chocoan Blunt-Headed Vine Snake, Imantodes chocoensis

Other Recently-Discovered Amphibians and Reptiles

Further Reading

Chameleons as Pets – 5 Things You Should Know Before Getting a Chameleon

Chameleons Do Not Like Company – Human or Otherwise!

Chameleons are Easily Stressed, but Often Appear Content

Chameleons Need a Highly-Varied Diet

Chameleons Need Large, Well-Ventilated Cages

Avoid Wild-Caught Chameleons

Further Reading

Bearded Dragon Health – Atadenovirus (Wasting Disease, Star-Gazing)

Infection and Transmission

Testing

Symptoms

Treatment

Further Reading

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos – Breeding and Care

Description

Range and Habitat

Captive Care

Further Reading

Reptile & Amphibian Conservation – Protection Sought for 53 US Natives

The ESA: Pros and Cons for Herp Keepers

The Scope of the Problem

The Center for Biological Diversity’s Proposal

Further Reading