The Spotted Salamander, Ambystoma maculatum, – Care in Captivity – Part 1
Welcome to our new blog location!
Please see here for more background information on this animal’s natural history and life cycle in the wild.
General
Despite living largely underground in the wild, captive spotted salamanders adjust well to artificial caves and shelters, where they are more easily observed. Well-adjusted capt
ives quickly lose their secretive, nocturnal ways, and will eagerly accept food offered by plastic feeding tongs. If attention is paid to their needs, especially as concerns temperature (see below), these stocky, brilliantly marked salamanders make long-lived and hardy pets.
Space and Other Physical Requirements
If provided with a deep (6-12 inches) substrate, spotted salamanders will establish burrows that will be defended and used consistently. Products such as Zoo Med Eco Earth and R-Zilla Fir/Sphagnum Moss Bedding, with a bit of top soil mixed in, work well as substrates. The surface should be covered with living or dried sheet moss, such as R-Zilla Compressed Frog Moss. You can spot clean this type of set-up or occasionally remove the top layer of substrate – living plants in the terrarium will aid in absorbing the salamander’s waste products.
Another useful tip in maintaining cleanliness is to establish a colony of isopods (sow bugs or pill bugs) in the terrarium. These small crustaceans can easily be collected below rocks and leaf litter. They are excellent salamander food and avidly consume feces, dead insects and decaying moss (a bit of fish flake food added occasionally will keep them in top shape and assure that they reproduce).
Land snails are also excellent scavengers, and both they and isopods are fascinating creatures in their own rights. Snails usually reproduce readily in captivity, and small specimens will be eagerly devoured by spotted salamanders.
A single adult spotted salamander requires an enclosure of approximately the size of a 10 gallon aquarium.
Spotted salamanders may also be kept in ventilated sweater boxes on sheet moss or paper towels. Each animal should be provided an individual artificial cave or cork bark shelter.
Light, Heat and Humidity
Spotted salamanders favor cool temperatures, retreating far below-ground during the summer months. They do best at 60-70 F, and are stressed by temperatures over 76 F. Cool basements make ideal sites for their terrariums, especially during the summer months. My own basement maintains an air temperature of 50-54 F in the winter, during which time the salamanders continue to feed. The drop in temperature is good for their health, and helps to maintain normal activity patterns and to spur breeding.
Breathing largely through their skin, spotted salamanders require moist conditions – their terrarium should be misted with de-chlorinated (not distilled) water daily. Free-living adults rarely enter water other than for breeding, but a shallow, easily-exited water bowl will be utilized by captives.
Humidity should not be raised by covering the terrarium with plastic – salamanders require circulating air and should be housed in screen-covered enclosures. In stagnant air conditions, temperatures rise and fungus often attacks the skin.
Spotted salamanders do not require a UVB light source. If you keep live plants in the terrarium, be sure to use a low output UVB bulb, such as the Reptisun 2.0, as too much UVB can damage the eyes of these and other amphibians. Check also that the bulb does not cause temperatures to spike.
If you keep your salamanders in an unlit basement, it is a good idea to provide a light cycle for them in the form of a weak room light or fluorescent tank light. They will do fine in complete darkness, but a day/night period is preferable, especially if you plan on breeding your animals.
Check back next Monday for the conclusion of this article. The image above is referenced from the Spotted Salamander entry on Wikipedia.
Until Next Time,
Frank
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about 2 years ago
Same question is asked on caudata.org, but I’ll second the interest on land snails. What species? Dart frog keepers consider snails a slugs a menace since they eat plants and will CO2 bomb tanks to get rid of them(and other nasties like proboscis worms). What is your take? I’m guessing with salamanders they are much less of pests as the young get eaten. I’ve seen some snails here that the adults would be bite sized for a spotted also though.
about 2 years ago
Hello Joseph, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interesting post.
There are many variables when it comes to snails in terrariums. Here in NY, and throughout the US, there are many introduced species…in the Northeast, most habitats have more European than native species. I have not identified most…I should, the American Museum of Natural History displays the shells of all NY species very conveniently in one case…someday hopefully.
I have 3 terrestrial species, collected in NYC and nearby suburbs, which do not eat living plants. Several have lived in one planted terrarium housing treefrogs for years without any supplementary feeding. They consume feces, decaying moss and dead plant leaves, the occasional uneaten insect, etc. One species I’m sure is European…I have used them in exhibits at the Brooklyn Children’s Museum as well with good results.
I’ve noticed that local terrestrial species do not breed very well…perhaps they need to be chilled for a time, or more food. Most aestivate for much of the summer, sometimes not moving about for weeks (same as with snails outside).
The larger European species here will even consume completely dried out dead leaves, at least when very hungry. Once while writing at home I heard a distinct “munching” sound and traced it to a potted cactus that I had brought indoors for the winter…a large snail was eating a leaf that had the consistency of cardboard…this sustained the creature for about 2 months, during which time it remained immobile.
A friend who taught me a great deal about poison frogs kept many terrariums for, quite literally, decades without substrate changes…he stocked each with a snail or 2…various species collected from all over, including Cuba (long story!); he even had banded tree snails. He was bed-ridden for many years, and figured out how to keep tanks going indefinitely without the need for much physical manipulation…going as far as to use an aspirator to suck up and deposit only a pre-determined number of 10 day old crickets into each terrarium!
Snails are intermediate hosts for a number of parasites, but I’ve never seen any sort of problems in this regard… most of the parasites involved are fairly specific as to host choice, etc. I’ve also used aquatic snails as food for reptiles at the Bronx Zoo….I hated doing this, but they are important for certain species, i.e. Malayan snail eating turtles (go figure!), Chinese alligators, various map turtles, giant musk turtles….without incident. Some zoos use a methylene blue bath before feeding crayfish/snails to their collections, to be on the safe side.
As you say, thin shelled snails and the young of most species are excellent food items for many salamanders.
I also have 4 species of aquatic snails that will not consume living plants, yet flock to a withered leaf of kale immediately (or as immediately as a snail can!).
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
hi i bougt a spotted salamander and he wont eat but if ulook at his skin there is no blisters
about 1 year ago
Hello Jake, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Please write back with some details – temperature in the terrarium, set up (substrate depth, shelters, etc), type of food offered, when/how offered – and I’ll be happy to provide some suggestions.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Besr regards, Frank Indiviglio
about 8 months ago
Hi Frank,
I have sucsessfully raised 5 spotted salamander larvae from eggs and they are only about 2 months old. They are all separated to prevent their cannibalistic ways and i was wondering…
1.How much/often should i feed them?
2.Is it ok for them to eat small ants?
3. Is it ok for them to eat small pieces of shrimp?
4. How often should I clean each of their small dishes of water they are in?
5. How soon will they metamorphoses?
Thank you,
Nina
about 8 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest and congrats – not an easy task.
1. They are primed to grow quickly and leave the water (since they usually live in temporary ponds) so daily feeding is ok as long as you keep up with water changes. Amount really depends on size, temperature and so on, but they are very ada0ptable in regulating growth rate; a meal equal in volume to the size of the head is sometimes used as a rough guide.
2. Ants are technically ok, but are some may be rejected due to taste (noxious secretions) and you’d need to collect from a pesticide-free area. However, they do not provide as much nutrition as earthworms and blackworms, which are the best foods to use as a staple diet.
3. Pieces of shrimp are ok on an occasional basis, but shrimps purchased from food stores are marine species, and so not a natural food item; also, small whole animals are preferable to pieces of larger, so that the exoskeleton and organs are eaten. <a href="Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest and congrats – not an easy task. 1. They are primed to grow quickly and leave the water (since they usually live in temporary ponds) so daily feeding is ok as long as you keep up with water changes. Amount really depends on size, temperature and so on, but they are very ada0ptable in regulating growth rate; a meal equal in volume to the size of the head is sometimes used as a rough guide. 2. Ants are technically ok, but are some may be rejected due to taste (noxious secretions) and you’d need to collect from a pesticide-free area. However, they do not provide as much nutrition as earthworms and blackworms, which are the best foods to use as a staple diet. 3. Pieces of shrimp are ok on an occasional basis, but shrimps purchased from food stores are marine species, and so not a natural food item; also, small whole animals are preferable to pieces of larger, so that the exoskeleton and organs are eaten. Canned and freeze-dried freshwater shrimps are a better option. 4. Cleaning depends upon size of container, feeding schedule etc., I’m assuming the dishes as small, so I’d say clean as often as possible, once daily or so. As they grow, they will be producing more and more wastes, especially ammonia, which is toxic but invisible, so up your schedule as time goes on. 5. In the wild they transform by the end of the summer (i.e. 4.5-6 months after hatching), but they will speed up the process if the water levels start to drop (some Tiger Salamander larvae, which are related to spotted salamanders, will actually develop broader jaws and longer teeth as water levels drop…thus allows them to eat other larvae and thus grow faster and leave the pond sooner.) In captivity, the timing changes – sometimes they take longer due to stable water supply, but lighting, diet and other factors can be involved; but usually within the natural time period. You’ll see the gills regress and faint color patterns begin to develop when they are ready. Please let me know when , this happens, it will be interesting to know the time frame. Canned and freeze-dried freshwater shrimps are a better option (canned preferable, in my experience).
4. Cleaning depends upon size of container, feeding schedule etc., I’m assuming the dishes as small, so I’d say clean as often as possible, once daily or so. As they grow, they will be producing more and more wastes, especially ammonia, which is toxic but invisible, so up your schedule as time goes on.
5. In the wild they transform by the end of the summer (i.e. 4.5-6 months after hatching), but they will speed up the process if the water levels start to drop (some Tiger Salamander larvae, which are related to spotted salamanders, will actually develop broader jaws and longer teeth as water levels drop…thus allows them to eat other larvae and thus grow faster and leave the pond sooner.) In captivity, the timing changes – sometimes they take longer due to stable water supply, but lighting, diet and other factors can be involved; but usually within the natural time period. You’ll see the gills regress and faint color patterns begin to develop when they are ready. Please let me know when , this happens, it will be interesting to know the time frame.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank
about 6 months ago
Thanks for responding!
Of course I have only seen this now.
Well now I have 3 larvae and the largest is a little over an inch.
Recently I started to feed them blackworms and they loved them the first day but now not so much. Its been 2 days since they ate a large meal so…
Should i keep trying with the blackworms?
Should I be feeding them something else?
When would you say theyll metamorph? (The biggest appears to have shrinking gills on one side)
thanks
about 6 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
My pleasure…thanks for the update. Blackworms are their absolute favorite so there is some reason behind their refusal to feed. Most likely they are beginning to transform (shrinking gills are a sign, as is their size). It is normal for them to cease feeding at this time. The exact timing depends on many factors – food availability, population size, temperature, water volume, but generally occurs by summer’s end; usually within a week or less of when the gills begin to shrink. Be sure they have an easy way out of the water, or they may drown. Please let me know if you need ideas on the set-up.
High ammonia levels or other water quality problems can also cause them to cease feeding. Best to check ammonia (simple tropical fish test kit) and do a partial water change if you are not sure.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please let me know how all goes.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
I keep the water level very low.
Now they will eat a piece once and a while maybe 2 pieces each today. I dont think they will metamorph for a while though because the biggest is only 1 inch and many websites say they morph at about 2 1/2 so… also i clean the 5 gallon tank once a day. They do have lots of accessible rocks as well.
about 6 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like water quality is fine, so it is just likely that they are slowing down as they mature. Small chopped earthworms are also a good food item if available.
Size at transformation varies a great deal; I’ve seen a very wide range. Larvae seem very flexible in their responses to local conditions. Most amazing is a close relative, the tiger salamander. If water levels drop suddenly, some larvae will develop unusually wide mouths and longer teeth so that they can prey upon other larvae, and so will grow faster than when restricted to invertebrates as a food item; they also recognize kin and will eat them only as a “last resort”! Not as much work has been done on spotteds.
Place some moss or other cover on the rocks…emerging salamanders will seek shelter and may be stressed if unable to hide/burrow.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
They all ate a lot (blackworms) now and are doing great. One of them is slightly more pale than the others but i think hes ok. I was also thinking of placing them in a large dish IN their new terrestrial tank when they were at the last stages of morphing. (So that they can have hides and land) Do you think thats a good idea?
about 6 months ago
Thanks for the kind words; happy to hear the news. A large dish within a terrarium is ideal, as long as you can keep it clean and they are not stressed by the smaller quarters; perhaps experiment with 1 animal and watch closely for a day or so. Otherwise, it’s fine to remove them within a day of their emergence (I get the idea that you monitor them carefully!).
Please let me know if you need any info on caring for the meta-morphs. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
I have 1 terrarium so i would have one at a time in the dish (in order of size/morph time) and have the other 2 in two smaller containers until their time comes. Thank you and if i have any other questions ill be sure to come here first.
about 6 months ago
1 other thing
Do you know any websites with really good spotted salamander/larvae pics?
about 6 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
That makes good sense; I think it would be the best option and would avoid stressing the animals at this especially difficult stage of their lives (in the wild, transformation is a time of great loss to predators, cars, inability to find suitable habitat etc.)
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
AmphibiaWeb has the most comprehensive info…much you may enjoy on larvae natural history. As for photos, I don’t know of any sources other than these posted on Google.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
PLEASE HELP
the sickly salamander has died and he has a slightly curled tail. The other two have slightly curled tails. this only happened overnight so i dont understand. Please tell me if there is anything i can do
about 5 months ago
I did add extra water yesterday and that may have scared them. I took the two left, put them in seperate containers and placed them in a darker room.
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
As long as the water was de-chlorinated it is not likely involved in the problem (please see earlier post),
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sorry to hear the bad news; transformation and the first year is a difficult time for them; there are often losses, even in wild populations. Curled tails/limbs often indicate a calcium deficiency. I suggest powdering all meals with vitamins/minerals, alternating between Reptocal or a similar high quality calcium supplement and Reptivite or a similar product.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
thank you so much. but is there any other way to give them calcium in a more natural way? i am not near a pet store of any kind for a few more days…
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sowbugs or pillbugs are crustaceans and very high in calcium; can be collected most anywhere or ordered online; please see this article. Earthworms can be high as well, but depends upon diet. But supplements should be given once you can get to a store or can order online. In advanced cases of calcium deficiency, injections of Calcium Gluconate are the treatment of choice (not practical for tiny creatures, but some vets have experimented with drops as well).
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
They seem to be better but the tips of their tails are still curled. Ill see what i can do about the calcium
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks, good to hear. They may be left with curled tail tips but that is not concern as long as the deficiency is corrected.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
Thank you. Their tails have completly uncurled and they look healthy again. They are both eating well and I put some calcium powder in their blackworms. The bigger 1 1/2 inch ones gills are still red but have lost their feathers. Also his limbs are very thick. The smaller one is fine and eating a lot. Thank you for all your help.
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for taking the time to let me know; congrats…can be a difficult problem. Might be good to plan ahead …find source for 10 day old crickets, tiny earthworms (both can be fed calcium powder along with their food (fish flakes work well) and powdered before being used as well. Can also continue to use blackworms…offer in small jar lid, etc. Sowbugs are an excellent calcium source; you’ll need to breed them in order to get tiny ones…can order cultures or collect, please check this article if you’d like more info.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
Hello again. I was looking at the largest (soon to metamorph) salamander and im not so sure they are spotteds anymore because his spots are not orderly or very circular and he has them on his head. He is about 1 3/4 inches and dark with these blotchy yellow spots. I live in New England if that helps. Do you have any idea what they could be. I was thinking marbled but im not sure.
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again. Spotted salamanders vary greatly in pattern and shape of spots…some have very few, and not always in rows; spots can occur on head. Intensity of color may change in time also. Marbleds have white or off-white blotches; Slimy Salamanders are spotted, but the spots are tiny and whitish. You can see photos of all CT’s amphibians here…please let me know what you think.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
they are actually from new hampshire…but i guess they are spotteds. thanks
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback; Spotteds are more common than the other 2, although declining. All the species pictured on the CT site, including frogs, may be found in NH as well.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
hello. i am now 100% sure that the larger salamander is metamorphing. over the past 3 days his gills have shrunken and this morning he shed his layer of stuff. (i am not completly sure what it is) he looks healthy and still takes 2 blackworms a day. any advice?
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. The main thing is to be sure the salamander can exit the water easily…a sloping gravel bank or a small plastic aquarium tipped on one side to create a pool of water and land area will work well. Plastic plants in the water can help it to rise for air and gain access to land. They usually weaken and drown if forced to swim for long.
It may take blackworms left in a jar lid or such once it leaves the water; best to have small earthworms, sow bugs and crickets on hand also.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
He is now in his terrestrial cage and has been for 3 days. I spritz him with water once and a while and today he ate 2 pieces of earthworm which was a lot for him. He stays curled up though is that normal?
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update; great sign that it is eating, transformation is a difficult time. Spotted Salamanders spend most of their time underground (Common name for their family, Ambystomatidae, is the Mole Salamanders). It doesn’t need to burrow in captivity, but provide a cave (commercial herp cave, broken clay flower pot w/no sharp edges, etc.); keep damp sphagnum moss in cave, can be used as a substrate also. Dead leaves and such work, but sphagnum is best for retaining moisture. Curling can also be in response to dry conditions., Substrate and salamander’s skin should always be damp.
Be sure to de-chlorinate the water used to spray the animal and tank.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
Thanks! They are both doing great! The one in the water is getting black feet which means he is 1 or 2 weeks away from metamorphosis and eats a lot. The metamorph eats small earthworms and blackworms regularly and moves around healthily. The only other thing I have to do is name them so if you have any good names feel free to say… thank you again
about 5 months ago
Hello Nina, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update. Congrats…even in zoos there are usually losses during transformation. You’ve done very well.
I have some salamanders in their 20’s and 30’s…they will respond to any name at all, as long as you dangle an earthworm while using it!
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.