Methylene Blue as a Treatment Option for Fungal, Protozoan and Bacterial Infections in Frogs and Salamanders: Amphibian Health
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
A common drawback in dealing with pathogen outbreaks among captive amphibians is the great sensitivity of most species to available medications. Drugs formulated for fish, used as a soak or bath, have great potential. However, amphibians absorb liquids over a much greater surface area than do fishes – in some cases with the entire skin surface – and it is therefore difficult to ascertain proper dosages. Dose reduction is largely a hit-and-miss prospect, as each amphibian differs in absorption ability – medication failure and patient death are all too frequent.
A Malaria Medicine Rescues Stranded Tadpoles
Methylene Blue, a compound that found favor in 1891 as a human anti-malarial agent (and subsequently lost favor due to its propensity to turn the urine green and the whites of the eyes blue!) is one of the safest medications to use with amphibians. It is widely used as a fish medication, but often overlooked by those working with amphibians. I was first impressed by its benign nature when called to rescue several hundred American bullfrog tadpoles from the bottom of a recently drained pond in NYC. The tadpoles had been flopping about for over an hour by the time I arrived, and were all cut up and bleeding.
Without much hope of success, I transferred the tadpoles to several plastic garbage cans and added Methylene Blue at a concentration a bit higher than recommended for fish. Normal procedure would have been to use ½ fish strength and gradually increase the dosage while observing the tadpoles’ reactions, but such takes time and these fellows had little of that. I was surprised to see no signs of stress, and astonished the next morning when most looked quite well. Eventually, a great many recovered.
Use Methylene Blue
I have since used Methylene Blue in private and public collections for a range of amphibians, including Argentine horned frogs, spotted salamanders and Surinam toads. It has been successful against fungus (most likely Saprolegnia) and certain bacteria associated with wounds and “red leg”. I’ve had mixed success in using it to combat fungus on amphibian eggs (smoky jungle frog, bell frogs, poison frogs) – the results likely depend upon the species of fungus involved. I begin with ½ the fish dose and a soak time of approximately 1 hour – gradually increasing both if necessary. For eggs, I dilute the Methylene Blue in water and then use an eye dropper to place it on the eggs (approximately 1 drop per 2 inch square of egg mass).
Treated amphibians will be stained blue for awhile (as will your hands if you do not wear gloves), but results have been very good. Where the compound has not worked, it at least caused no harm, and therefore lent the option of using alternative medications.
Amphibian medicine is, in many ways, in its infancy. This is one area where hobbyists can make real contributions to our knowledge base. Your own notes, thoughts and questions would be most welcome. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
Drug resistant strains of malaria have researchers once again investigating the use of Methylene Blue as a treatment option for people. An interesting article regarding this is posted at:
http://www.malariajournal.com/content/4/1/45
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about 2 years ago
ok frank -
the m blue came in today-going to try it out-
thanx again mark
about 2 years ago
Hello Mark, Frank Indiviglio here.
I hope all goes well; results vary – we have a great deal to learn, so please let me know your results.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
ok frank-
after one day of 1/2 fish dose the aliment on the males foot has improved greatly i would say in 3 days it will be healed
about 2 years ago
Hello Mark, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for taking the time to write in. Such a quick response is promising news indeed, and not all that common.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
hello frank-after weeks of treament im sorry to inform you that my toad did not make it-the diease must have gotten the better of him -howveer the female is doing absolutly great
thanks mark
about 2 years ago
Hello Mark,
Thanks for the update and sorry for the bad news. The initial improvement that you saw involved the external infection. However, the infection no doubt had become septic and was being spread internally. When this happens, injectible antibiotics are the only effective treatment option, and even these fail if not given early on. Unfortunately, most Surinam toads in the trade are wild caught…problems such as that suffered by your animal are not uncommon.
Good luck with the female and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
I have amphibians eggs, that always die with hollow bellies at larvae or white spots. I am sure they are fungi, can anyone recommended a centration of methylene blue to protect eggs??/ THanks
about 2 years ago
Hello Martin, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. There really are no clear guidelines yet – what works seems to depend on the type of fungus and the species (please write back and let me know what species are involved). I usually start at ½ the fish dose, but most eggs can take the full dose recommended for fishes. I’ve gone as high as a full drop per Poison Frog egg mass.
Fungus on larvae may not be related to egg fungus, as when eggs are infected the larvae usually do not hatch; worth looking into, however.
Good luck and please let me k now how it goes,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
about 1 year ago
I need help..urgent..how to cure american bullfrog white eyes n red legs diseases…???n what is the main reason for this diseases???
about 1 year ago
Hello Elis, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and sorry to hear about your frog. Red leg is a general term for a bacterial infection. It often takes hold when ammonia levels (from the frog’s waste products) are allowed to rise in the tank. Also a skin injury can leave an opening for bacteria, which are always present, to attack. You can try the methylene blue treatment outlined in the article, but the fact that white eyes are present indicates a very serious problem; fungus may have taken hold as well. Your best option would be a vet visit – please let me know if you need help in locating a vet in your area.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
about 1 year ago
thanks frank..i am from sabah,malaysia,,where can i find this methylene blue treatment??i do visit vet but here they dont have medication for that..
about 1 year ago
Hello Elis, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Perhaps tropical fish medications are easier to find? Methylene blue is a common ingredient in several, and is also sold in pure form for tropical fish. Also, other types of fish medication are worth trying, i.e. a general anti-bacterial/anti-fungal. Start with ½ the recommended dose for fish, since frogs absorb the medication over a greater surface area than do fish. In the meantime, keep the water clean, and a cooler location is better than warmer. Labs sometimes cure redleg by keeping frogs in refrigerators at 38-40F. The frog’s immune systems work (temperate species such as Am. Bullfrogs) well at that temperature, and the bacteria sometimes die-off. Fish meds and refrigeration are risky, but the frog will not survive without treatment so worthwhile in my opinion.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
thanks frank,what should i do with my frogs that infected with white eyes already???n can this diseases spread to other frogs also..??
about 1 year ago
Hello Elis, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Yes, any fugal/bacterial disease is highly contagious. It’s possible that some of the medications mentioned earlier may help the eye problem, but without a determination of the type of fungus involved its not really possible to be certain.
Most of the American Bullfrogs that arrive in Malaysia come in through the food trade and are bred under crowded conditions that encourage red leg and similar diseases; same true of food trade here in the US….unfortunately, it’s difficult to obtain healthy animals if they originated in the food trade.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
I have several captive axolotls, who have been diagnosed with a protozoan infection that looks like white cotton balls on their body. Do you think it would be safe to treat them with this product and do you think it will help?
about 1 year ago
Hello Kim, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. I have used methylene blue on axolotls with success. I stayed with ½ the fish dosage and did not increase over time as aquatic amphibians absorb medications over such a large area.
It does not work on all protozoan species, and if the infection is also internal then success is less likely. I’m assuming the diagnosis was made by a veterinarian?…if so, I would first check back with the doctor as to treatment, as there are other options. I should be able to put her/him in touch with a vet who is an amphibian specialist if that might be helpful.
Good luck and please let me know how all goes…it is very useful to have feedback on amphibian medical cases.
Happy Holidays, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Hi Frank ,
Your websites conscerning Pipa pipas are great ! I got in 4.3 group of Pipa pipa . I have them in a 65 gallon Cube/Breeder tank , 76F , 6.5PH , and they all seem to be happy thus so far . I got the group in this past thursday. I’ve noticed on a couple of the specimens , there is a white patch , not really fungus like , no fuzzy or hairy , but more of a rub spot . There’s only a couple of these spots on these particular animals. Could these spots be from international shipping ? Or could you describe these particular fungus white spots Pipas get ? Thanks for your help!
Reg
about 2 months ago
Hello Reg
I appreciate the kind words, thank you. If the spots seem not to be fungus, or red, then they are likely abrasions as you suggest. Keep an eye on them, however, as things can progress quickly. Stress-Coat and similar products designed to replace the slime coat on tropical fishes may be useful.
I’m a little concerned about the number of animals…7 adults in a 65 gallon tank is risky. Like most aquatic amphibs, they excrete wastes in a highly toxic state, and ammonia levels build very quickly, especially given the volume of food they’ll be eating… however, you will not notice an odor or discoloration. Use a very good filter but even so, I’d suggest at least a 50% water change weekly. I had a great deal of trouble with highly contagious bacterial skin infections/septicemia when I kept groups, even in larger tanks than the one you’re using now.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Ok awesome responce …. How many adults could I safely keep in a tank at that size ? I do have a 40 gallon breeder tank but i believe it’s only about 1.5 foot tall , if I have to , I could seperate some adults and put them in the 40 breeder tank .
about 2 months ago
Hello Reg
Thanks for the feedback. Perhaps try 4 in the 65, 3 in the other. Stay with same water change and use ammo-chips plus carbon if filter allows. Keep an ammonia test kit handy, but bear in mind that ammonia is not the whole story. Most Pipa pipa in the trade are wild caught, and thus will be harboring parasites. Water changes and ample water volume helps keep some of these in control.
One commercial Xenopus breeder uses Nutrafin Cycle as a safety measure…would be worth a try for you, I believe. Please see here for more info, and please let me know how all goes…
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Yes , I keep central american and south american cichlids , along with Mata mata turtles fort. ( thus so far ) with success . I have the water testing kit and a KH tester kit as well I use for my fishes and turtles. I am appoarching keeping Pipa pipa in the same manner as keeping Mata mata as they reside in the same river and locale. I will take your advice and seperate tommorrow the group tommorrow. Thanks a million for your help !!
about 2 months ago
Hello Reg
Great…I think there is some overlap; I was lucky enough to work in mata matas habitat (Venezuela) for a time – black water teeming with a mind-blowing array of fishes. Unfortunately, never turned up a Pipa at the time…
In case of interest, here’s an article on matas and goldfish, along with a photo of a large specimen that turned up in a food market.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Frank ,
Oh man that’s a really interesting article . I’ve always heard of problems with goldfish thus I’ve always stayed away from them as feeders , I only keep the fancy goldies as pets. I feed my south american leaf fishes , mata matas , and ( now ) Pipa pipas a variety , ie Feeder Guppies , Platy , and other live bearers. I will be feeding the Pipa pipa nightcrawlers and maybe try Ghost shrimps on occassion . Talk soon ! , Reg
about 2 months ago
Hello Reg
Glad to see you have wide interests…we generalists are a dying breed. Leaf fishes are great favorites of mine, and I enjoy goldfishes and koi as well.
The diet you describe is perfect. Wish we knew more about the goldfish problem, but the evidence seems clear, so best to play it safe.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.