That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information

I usually recommend that aspiring snake breeders start off with live-bearing species, so as to avoid the necessity of incubating eggs.  In the Family Boidae we find a wide range of possibilities, one of the most popular of which is the beautiful Rainbow Boa (Epicrates cenchria). Although not as widely kept as its much larger cousin, the Boa constrictor, the Rainbow Boa is far easier to manage in captivity, yet grows large enough (to nearly 7 feet in some cases) to satisfy those who prefer sizable snakes.

Range and Diversity

Eight subspecies of Rainbow Boa range throughout much of Central and South America (Panama to Northern Argentina).

Black rings on a rich red-orange background mark the most highly desirable of these, the Brazilian Rainbow Boa (E. c. cenchria).  The somewhat duller but still attractive Columbian Rainbow Boa (E. c. maurus) is more commonly available.  Both of these snakes, and the remaining subspecies, may be bred in a similar manner.

Selection of Breeding Stock

Although occupying a wide range of habitats, Rainbow Boas from all locales usually respond well to similar breeding techniques.  Captive-bred animals are easier to work with than wild-caught individuals, as the “internal clocks” of wild snakes may conflict with local conditions – wild-caught animals will usually reproduce only during their normal breeding season, and after being exposed to a very close simulation of natural conditions (rainfall, temperature, etc.).

Potential breeders should be robust, at least 3 years of age and approximately 5 feet long, so that sexual maturity is assured.  Small and/or young females often give birth to a high percentage of stillborns.

Stimulating Reproduction

Despite their tropical origins, Rainbow Boas selected for breeding should be subjected to a 6 week cooling-off period, at temperatures of 68-70 F.  Over much of their natural habitat, such temperature dips are associated with rainy periods.  Increased misting may, therefore, help spur reluctant breeders, but care must be taken that the snakes dry off completely, lest fungal skin infections take hold.

Snakes slated for cooling should be fasted for 2-3 weeks beforehand (undigested food in the gut of a cool snake will spoil and likely kill the animal).  A water bowl should be available during their artificial “winter”.

At the end of the cool period, temperatures should gradually (over a 10 day period) be raised to 78-85 F, with a basking site of 92 F.  Females give birth 6-8 months after copulation, and produce an average of 10 young per litter (the range is 1 to 25).   Newborn Rainbow Boas are large enough – 14 to 24 inches – to take fuzzies or small mice as a first meal.

A Note Concerning Diet

I’ve found that Rainbow Boas often refuse favored foods after a time.  Usually, a switch from mice to rats, or vice-versa, gets them started again.

Rainbow Boas usually relish chicks, and may take gerbils, hamsters and other rodents, but these should not be used unless a steady supply is available.  Snakes that “fixate” on a difficult-to-obtain food can be trouble.  I once worked with an anaconda that refused all food but muskrats, another which took only wild-caught Norway rats, and several that “demanded” ducks.

Further Reading

Information on the natural history of the Brazilian Rainbow Boa and other creatures that live in its habitat may be found in the newsletter of The Amazon Conservation Association.

A video of a nicely colored young Brazilian Rainbow Boa is posted here.

Peruvian Rainbow Boa image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Damien Farrell

The Common Kingsnake, Lampropeltis getula, is one of the first snakes to have been bred in captivity on a large scale, and remains extremely popular.  Eight distinctly-marked subspecies range throughout the USA and into Central America.  All breed well in captivity – the California Kingsnake (L.g. californiae), a pet trade staple, is available in a wide range of “designer patterns”.  The other subspecies may be seen in their “pure” forms or as crosses with related snakes, and include the Black Kingsnake, Florida Kingsnake, Eastern or Chain Kingsnake, Mexican Black Kingsnake (the only race which is jet back above and below), Desert Kingsnake, Speckled Kingsnake and Yuma Kingsnake (sometimes grouped with the California Kingsnake, as the “desert phase”).

Husbandry

Despite the wide range of habitats occupied by the various Common Kingsnake subspecies, all may be kept and bred in much the same manner (please write in for specific information on the subspecies in which you are interested).

Common Kingsnakes do well at temperatures of 76-86 F, and, being fairly secretive, require a secure hideaway.  They may be raised on a diet of mice, but all are partial to other snakes as food – pairs must be watched carefully, especially at feeding time

Breeding

Kingsnakes should be subjected to a 2-3 month cooling off period at 59-68 F during the winter.  Copulation is most likely to occur from March-June, with eggs being laid 30-50 days thereafter.  A second clutch may be produced in late summer or early fall.  Clutch size varies from 3-21, with 9 eggs being the average.

Eggs and Hatchlings

Eggs incubated in moist vermiculite (use a vermiculite: water ratio of 1:1 by weight – please see article below for details) at 82 F will hatch in 45-75 days.  The hatch rate is usually a pleasing 90% or higher.  The young, 9-13 inches long upon hatching, are large enough to take pink mice as their first meal.  Sexual maturity is reached at approximately 2 ½ years of age.

Further Reading

For further information on hatching snake eggs, please see my article Incubating Reptile Eggs.

Very interesting footage of wild California Kingsnakes is posted here.

Lampropeltis getula getula image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Dawson

In Part I of this article we discussed the care of the Tropical Girdled Lizard (Cordylus tropidosternum), one of the most commonly available of the 37 interesting species in the genus Cordylus (among the Girdled Lizard’s relatives is the much sought-after Armadillo Lizard, C. cataphractus, see photo).  Also known as the East African Spiny-tailed Lizard, its unique appearance and behaviors are quite captivating.  Today we’ll cover captive reproduction in more detail.

Temperature Fluctuations in Nature and Captivity

In their native South Africa, Tropical Girdled Lizards hibernate during the winter, and a cooling off period was believed necessary to induce captive reproduction.  Good results are usually achieved after captives have been held at temperatures of 58-60 F for 4-6 weeks.  During this time they move about a bit, and drink, but do not feed.

However, I’ve recently received reports of captive births (females bear 1-4 large, well-developed youngsters) among lizards subjected to little if any change in temperature. In some situations, normal seasonal fluctuations in the temperature of the room in which the lizards are held seems to be enough to stimulate reproduction.

Reproduction Without a Traditional “Winter”

In the most recent breeding of which I’ve been informed, births occurred in a terrarium maintained at an ambient of 77 F with a basking site of 95 F.  The room in which the terrarium was located was heated during the winter and air conditioned during the summer, which may have “switched seasons” on the lizards, but they bred none-the-less.

In another situation, the terrarium was in a room maintained at approximately 75 F year-round, but, being near a window, may have been subjected to the effects of outdoor temperatures.

Caring for Youngsters – UVB Light

Tropical Girdled Lizards seem to form loosely connected colonies in the wild; captives usually fare well in groups, but dominant individuals sometimes prevent others from feeding and basking.

Young lizards should have access to UVB light. However, they are quite shy, and may not bask often, especially if adults are present.  Also, they tend not to climb to the top of rock piles and such when basking, preferring to remain at or close to the terrarium’s floor – at which point they may be too far from the bulb to obtain adequate UVB exposure.  Therefore, newborns are best removed to shallow enclosures, in order to maximize UVB exposure (they should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of florescent UVB bulbs).

Useful UVB and UVA Lamps (Bulbs)

A Zoo Med 10.0 UVB bulb positioned within 6 to 8 inches of the basking site, is ideal.  Mercury vapor bulbs can be used in situations where the basking site cannot be positioned within 12 inches of the bulb.

A source of UVA light, while perhaps not critical for survival, will help to encourage natural behaviors and reproduction.

Further Reading

Recently I have helped to set up new reptile and amphibian exhibit areas for The Maritime Aquarium in Norwalk, CT (long known for its excellent collection of native marine life), and was happy to learn that Girdled Lizards have reproduced there (off exhibit).

A listing of all 37 Cordylus species, along with range and other information, is posted here.

While the role of UVB light in reptile care is well-understood, we know less about UVA.  For some thoughts and observations, please see Providing UVA to Reptiles and Amphibians.

Armadillo Girdle tailed Lizard image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Ltshears from flickr and Frank Wouters

Madagascar’s Mantellas or Golden Frogs (Family Mantellidae) are, in many ways, the ecological equivalents of Latin America’s Poison Frogs (Family Dendrobatidae), and illustrate nicely the concept of convergent evolution – unrelated animals from different parts of the world that have developed similar adaptations.  Although less commonly kept than the poison frogs, these tiny, brilliantly-colored gems are gaining in popularity.  Following is a brief overview of the group.

Range and Diversity

Mantellas are found only on Madagascar, off the southeast coast of Africa, and are unique enough to warrant their own family, Mantellidae.  Sixteen species have been described thus far, but that number will almost certainly increase as the group is studied more closely.  Nearly all are exceptionally colorful – more so than the better known Poison Frogs (Dendrobates spp.) in many cases.

Similarities to Poison Frogs

Both Mantellas and Poison Frogs are small, brightly-colored, diurnal (active by day), and usually make little attempt to conceal themselves.  All forage on land or in trees, are protected by virulent skin toxins, exhibit complex breeding behaviors, and lay eggs in on land.

Mantella reproductive strategies roughly follow those of the Poison Frogs.  Males call during the day from exposed sites on land – light markings on the vocal sacs may serve as a visual stimulus to females.  They wrestle for dominance, with the loser being flipped onto his back but otherwise unharmed. Ten to thirty eggs, which are fertilized externally, are deposited in nests below leaf litter.

Tadpole development has been little studied; those which have been researched hatch in 2-7 days and wriggle or are washed by rain to temporary pools and brooks.  They feed upon algae and decaying plants and animals, and transform into frogs in 6-8 weeks.  Sexual maturity is attained in 12-14 months.

Mantellas in the Terrarium

Mantellas may be kept in much the same manner as most poison frogs but, being even smaller, they are a bit harder to feed.  A source of springtails, fruit flies and pinhead crickets is a must.

Despite their diminutive statures, Mantellas are efficient predators with quite large appetites – a 1.8 inch long Bronze Mantella (Mantella betsilio) was observed to consume 53 ants in just 30 minutes!

Further Reading

A review of the status of the various mantellas and the CITES proposal for their protection is posted here.

The Tropical Girdled Lizard (Cordylus tropidosternum) is the most readily available of the 30+ Cordylus species, and offers an excellent introduction to the group.  It is sometimes sold as the “Armadillo Lizard”, confusing purchasers who had in mind another (and, at $1,200+ each, vastly more expensive!) species with the same common name, C. cataphractus.  It also occasionally appears under the name “East African Spiny-tailed Lizard”.

Tropical Girdled Lizards in Captivity

Don’t let their inexpensive price tag mislead you – Tropical GirdledLlizards are no less interesting in appearance or behavior than their pricey cousins. In fact, the “true” Armadillo Lizard, C. cataphractus, which is no longer exported from South Africa, is one of the shyest reptiles I’ve ever encountered.

When kept properly, these southeast African natives may reward you by reproducing, always a thrill for responsible herp keepers (judging from the size of the young, the event is less thrilling for the moms – please see below!).  While not bold, they are no as retiring as most related species, and are relatively easy to observe.

Girdled Lizards give birth to 1-4 huge live youngsters.  The hatchling pictured here, born at the Maritime Aquarium in Connecticut, is one of a litter of 2 – their total mass seemed to be nearly half that of their mother.

Further Reading

Two subspecies of tropical Girdled Lizards appear in the pet trade; to help determine which you have, and for a key to other species in the genus, please see this reference.

Over the last several years I have helped to set up new reptile and amphibian exhibit areas for The Maritime Aquarium in Norwalk, CT (long known for its excellent collection of native marine life).  To learn more, please click here.