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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I’ve recently observed several frogs and toads to develop difficulties in feeding (American Bullfrogs, Gray Treefrogs, Southern Leopard and Green Frogs; several readers have written to me concerning difficulties with American Toads). It starts with what looks like “bad aim” and progresses to the point where the frogs cannot catch insects at all and must be force-fed. I’ve looked into the problem and found that a Vitamin A deficiency, leading to Short Tongue Syndrome, may be involved (please see this article by Dr. Kevin Wright of the Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital for details). I’d like to request that readers send me their own observations, so that we can learn more about this serious amphibian health problem.
Short Tongue Syndrome
The condition was first observed in captive Wyoming Toads, Bufo baxteri, an endangered species (please see photo).
According to the article mentioned above, studies of the feeding difficulties, labeled Short Tongue Syndrome, revealed that diets deficient in Vitamin A may prevent mucus glands associated with the tongue from producing enough saliva. The tongue is not, as the disorder’s name implies, shortened, but rather insects simply do not stick to the tongue when grabbed.
Other symptoms, such as swellings in the lower eyelid, have been reported in Leopard and various Poison Frogs.
Powdered supplements containing low levels of Vitamin A, or products that have expired or been improperly stored, may be implicated. Dr. Wright’s article (please see below) suggests possible treatments.
Vitamin A and Calcium: My Experience
The afflicted frogs and toads under my care were fed largely upon wild-caught insects during the warmer months, a strategy that has served me well for decades, so I suspect the problem does lie with the Vitamin A content of supplements used during the winter.
Several individuals have also exhibited poor coordination and difficulties in getting about, which sometimes points to Calcium-related disorders. I’m looking into several possibilities and will post updates.
In the meantime, it would be very useful to have your own thoughts and observations. We know very little about amphibian nutrition and medicine, and any input would be most valuable. Please post your comments here if possible.
Thank you,
Frank Indiviglio
Further Reading
Frogs: Vitamin A Deficiency; Dr. Wright’s thoughts, and research from the San Diego Zoo.
I’m a botanist and an avid lover of toads, and I find your thorough and scientifically based blog on toad and general amphibian-raising to be one of the most useful tools on the net, thank you for posting and continuing to post your observations.
I had a recent experience with what I believe was vitamin A deficiency in my American toad, so I hope my descriptions of the symptoms and subsequent recovery will be useful. I had noticed for a few months that both my American toad and great plains toad were no longer using their tongues to catch crickets and were instead catching their prey by launching their mouths at the insect. I had also at this time switched to mainly hand-feeding (too many escaped crickets in an apartment complex makes for bad neighbors), so I thought this change in behavior reflected my change in feeding methods. Then about 2 weeks ago I noticed my American toad seemed to be a little unsteady when hopping. He’s land, but would wobble a bit when landing. I was a little concerned, but nothing else seemed to be happening and he was eating fine, so I didn’t so anything else. Then suddenly he had a lot of difficulty holding himself up. He could still crawl around, but his body seemed to be permanently arched as if in a defensive posture and he had great difficulty eating. He’d be interested in the food, and lunge towards it, but he’d never open his mouth. At one point I observed his scratching his mouth on the ground in what seemed like frustration. At the same time the muscles in his back legs seemed to twitch involuntarily. I did a little research then and found out about the vitamin A deficiency (from your blog mainly, thank you for the information) and switched my nutrient powder to include vitamin A. He couldn’t eat at this point, so I had to force feed him a coated cricket. And overnight, like magic, he seemed to recover. He’s sitting normally now and has all of his appetite back. I’m almost suspicious to assume the vitamins were responsible given his speedy recovery, but I can’t seem to find an alternative explanation.
Anyway, I hope this helps your work and anyone out there with this problem. I’ve raised amphibians for a long time and this was the first time I ever encountered a vitamin A deficiency, but I’ve now definitely switched my remaining toads to a nutrient supplement containing vitamin A.
Hello Christie,
Thanks very much for the most useful observations and the kind words, much appreciated. Almost word for word a description of what I’ve seen in several amphibs. I do know of cases where a single dose of a vitamin or mineral has led to a quick turn-around, although such is rare. Keep it up, I’d say!
Please let me know what supplement you used when you have a chance. We have a great deal to learn, and much of it will come from first hand experiences such as yours. I’m in touch with Dr Kevin Wright, an amphib med pioneer, re such things, and will keep him informed.
Twitching toes may be a sign of tetany, brought on by CA deficiency; unfortunately, several other symptoms of this overlap with what we see when Vit A is involved, so there’s no way to judge w/o blood tests, etc. I’m assuming the supplement has CA as well? Toads seem able to utilize dietary D3 to assist in CA metabolism, but some people are leaning towards using low output UVB bulbs designed esp. for amphibs, as insurance, i.e the Zoo Med 2.0.. I’ve seen eye probs in gray treefrogs, wood frogs, that may possibly be related to high UVB exposure, but the 2.0 should be safe, esp if the toads have a retreat.
Perhaps this article on Spray Toads will be of interest; smallest species I’ve seen, but classified in Bufonidae.
Thanks again, pl keep me posted and I’ll keep your info on hand, Frank
Hi Frank,
Thank you for the extra information. Actually the twitching toes comment interests me, as I’ve noticed over the years that the back toes on my American toad, great plains toad, and tiger salamander all twitch, but only when I’ve placed food in their aquarium. I always just assumed it was some kind of hunting tactic. I’ll have to watch now that I’m supplementing their food with more vitamins and see if the behavior continues.
The new supplement I used is called Zoo Med’s Reptivite with D3. It was the only supplement I could find which included a form of vitamin A. It also boasts an impressive list of nutrients (including things such as various amino acids and micro-nutrients like Niacin), and while I’m not convinced that all of these things are necessarily needed, I don’t think they can hurt either. Honestly I think it’s more nutritionally complete than the multivitamins I take.
Before this I had been using a calcium with D3 powder and have a plant light on one side of the aquarium (I use live plants, but only ones with zero toxicity such as ferns) but unfortunately I can’t tell you what type it is. I’ve had it for a couple years now though and it’s ability to produce the necessary UV light for plants has probably worn out.
I hope this helps, I’ll let you know if the ‘twitching toes’ behavior changes.
Hi Christie,
Thanks for the feedback. i should have mentioned that toe-twitching is also part of the normal hunting behavior of many amphibs. In tetany, it is unrelated to hunting, and usually seen when the animal is having trouble moving, etc. Calcium gluconate injections are used to revers the condition. I need to look into the hunting aspect more; have not seen much on it, thanks for the reminder. Tail twitching/caudal luring used by young copperheads, red-tailed ratsnakes and others makes sense, given their dietof lizards, frogs, birds, but I’m not sure what purpose toe twitching serves the toads (unless they are hunting mantids, caterpillar hunters, or other sight-hunting inverts!).
I usually recommend ZN with D#, thanks very much. For most herps, I rotate that with ZooMed Reptical, or ReptoCal, to provide an extra CA boost. May not be necessary for toads. Unfortunately, we know little of their actual needs, largely anecdotal.
Very good to use live plants whenever possible…one of the secrets to some of my and other’s long-established terrariums, exhibits. What does your work with botany involve?
Best, Frank
Hi Frank,
I’m glad to hear the twitching toes is really a hunting behavior. I always found it very cute when they did it and was feeling a little sad that is was actually a symptom of nutrient deficiency. And thank you for the supplement information. I think I will start rotating as well just to make sure nothing like this every happens again.
I work with invasive plants trying to determine their methods of expansion and the effect climate change will have on their expansion rate. But herpetology has always been a hobby of mine.
Hi Christie,
Let me know how all goes, please. Very interesting that the symptoms stopped.
I’ve worked with everything from ants to elephants, focus on herps/inverts; plants hae always been an interest, esp. aquatics and emergent-swamp types, but everything, really.
Best, Frank
Hi Frank,
Just finished reading one of your articles on feeding frogs and toads. I have recently acquired a cane toad, I’ve had him for about a month. I have kept toads in the past, your garden variety American/Canadian toads and never had a problem. My little female A toad is an easy going sweetie who eats willingly and broadly, horn worms, crickets, mealies, moths whatever wild caught insects that blunder into my insect catcher. The cane toad is making me tear out my hair. He’s about 4 ” long and the most neurotic creature I have ever encountered. I have followed all the “toad rules”, big tank, de-chlorinated water in a clean dish every day, gut loading, monthly enclosure cleaning, heating cable in one corner, misting, the whole nine yards and its not enough. He is an incredibly picky eater, when I first got him all he would eat was super worms, dead ones at that (not my first choice for a toad) I weaned him off of those and onto crickets. He ignores free roaming crickets. He will only eat crickets if their legs are snipped and they are presented in a bowl. Earthworms are a big problem, by the time he has worked up the nerve to approach his dish they are long gone, tongs are out as he is so shy any sign of a person sends him hopping to safety. Horn worms are ignored and usually wander off or drown in his water dish. He will take the occasional mealy but they are the potato chip of the insect world and don’t count as nutritious. I realize he was likely wild caught, kept in questionable conditions etc…a cage clean up usually puts him off his food for days. How do I get him to come around?
Also, what do you think about Polysporin Antibiotic Drops for Eyes and Ears, can I use those on toads for minor stuff? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Heather,
Sounds like you are doing everything right (I;m assuming temperature is appropriate…check air temps, as cables sometimes warm substrate only) He also has a cave , or a substrate in which to burrow?
They are usually quite bold..in Costa Rica, I’ve had them push open a screen door to get at insects drawn to lights in our patio! But they vary a great deal, and have had shy ones as well. no real way to change this other than to let the animal adjust.
Keep it hungry for awhile, and try watching from a distance, perhaps use a red/\black night light to assist in this.
Physical difficulties capturing insects can be related to a Vitamin A deficiency (please see this article http://bitly.com/PwJAJk, but that doesn’t sound like the case here. Wild caught animals will be parasitized; treatment can be difficult and dangerous, usually a judgement call; some parasites clear on their own, others do not.
Polysporin can be used for minor nicks, but watch carefully for infection/fungal growth.
Please post some details about hiding spot, air temps etc when you have a moment.
Best, Frank