That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information

I’ve been fortunate in having had many adventures with reptiles.  Some took place in the exotic locales I dreamed of visiting as a child, but one of my first was situated in far less promising surroundings – the sewers below the Bronx, in NYC!

The Legend

I grew up hearing tales of huge alligators that supposedly cruised the sewers of NYC, warmed by the steamy air and gorging on rats, roaches and garbage.  In the 1950’s and 60’s, huge numbers of baby Spectacled Caimans (Caiman crocodylus), dubbed “alligators”, were sold to tourists visiting Florida.  In fact, I was presented with just such a creature by my grandfather.  As the story went, the “gators” wound up in sewers after being flushed or dropped there when they became ill or too large for their owners to manage.

My Golden Opportunity

When I was 10 or 11 years old, construction on the street outside my home gave me a long-awaited opportunity…the chance to sneak down into the sewers on an alligator hunt.  I couldn’t imagine a more fortunate set of circumstances, and felt sorry for the many children deprived of such a grand adventure!

Provisioned with a hook, line and pilfered cold cuts, I spent many summer afternoons stalking the mythical beasts below the streets of the Bronx.  I did see “wildlife” – rats, mice and roaches – but I did not catch any alligators (or infectious diseases, thankfully!).

Fortunately, my interests were wide, and with the aid of my books and the (very!) patient, kind-hearted folks at the American Museum of Natural History’s Invertebrate Department, I was able to determine that at least 3 different species of cockroach roamed the area.

The Reality of NYC’s Sewer Gators

Of course, NYC’s sewer system is a less than ideal home for crocodilians of any type – cold winter temperatures, a lack of sunlight and a poor diet would doom the creatures to brief lives, if ever they were there.

I recently expressed that opinion in an interview that was scheduled to air on the TV show “Monster Quest”.  However, I upon watching the episode I found that I had been “deleted” – hopefully because my comments were not “dramatic” enough, and not due to my poor on-air appearance!

Some Real NYC Crocodilians

About 10 years ago, a young Spectacled Caiman did wind up being caught in a filter at a water treatment plant on the Bronx River…perhaps the first solid evidence of a free-living crocodilian in NYC.  The animal had likely been dumped by its owner a short time earlier, but we could not trace its history.

A young alligator, released into a lake in Central Park a few years back, put Manhattan on the map as crocodilian “habitat”.

Working with Crocs

Happily, as time went on I was able to work with 15 or so species of crocodilians in zoos and the wild.  Please see the attached photos – the beast charging me is a marsh crocodile,  Crocodylus palustris, the long-snouted fellow being led into the net is an Indian gharial, Gavialis gangeticus, and the white specimen is an albino American alligator, Alligator mississippiensis.

In  Part I of this article we looked at the importance of calcium, leaf litter and decaying wood in the diet of the African giant millipede (Achispirospreptus gigas) and its relatives.

Research Needed

Few field studies have been made of millipedes in the wild, and we therefore know little about their exact nutritional needs.  Based on experience with related species, and in the hopes of providing as many nutrients as possible, I began offering African giant millipedes a wide variety of food items.  With the help of colleagues here and abroad, I eventually arrived at a diet that has allowed me to breed a number of native and exotic millipedes, and to maintain individual animals for over 10 years.

A Useful Millipede Diet

In addition to leaf litter and wood (please see Part I of this article), I feed most millipedes a mixed salad of yam, carrot, kale, cucumber, apple, banana and a wide variety of other fruits and vegetables.  To this is added moistened insect gut-loading diet and tropical fish flakes, both of which supply necessary protein, and a bit of Forest Tortoise Food.

San Francisco Bay Prepared Tortoise Food is a convenient means of providing a wide variety of nutritious foods, and is readily accepted by many millipedes. I use this as an occasional supplement, or mix it into the regular salad.  All food offered is powdered with Reptocal.

Lengthening days and warmer temperatures are beginning to register on amphibian pets nationwide, stirring long-dormant breeding urges.  Last week I was please to find that a 2 year old female axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum) which I paired with an older male had produced eggs for the first time.  A week or so earlier a reader informed me of another spontaneous axolotl breeding.

Mexican axolotls are an ideal choice for the prospective amphibian breeder, and are becoming ever more popular each year.  With spring upon us, I thought I might pass along some photos of my pair and their eggs, along with a few tips.

The Aquarium and Filter

The eggs pictured here are set up in a PLA House Plastic Cage equipped with a Small World Filter.  PLA House Cages are available in 6 sizes, and their light weight allows for easy water changes.  I have found them indispensible in my collection, and always have a number on hand.

The Small World Filter is ideal for use with amphibian larvae, as the water return is directed upwards and so does hamper weak swimmers.  Sponge filters work equally well.  I use an air pump that provides just enough aeration to keep the eggs slightly in motion.

Providing Cover
Axolotl eggs are typically attached to plants or other structures, as seen in the accompanying photo.  Once they begin to hatch, I’ll add additional plants, nearly filling the tank so as to separate the larvae a bit and reduce cannibalism.  Plastic plants set in bases are very useful, as they provide shelter throughout the water column. The Cypress Mat  provides excellent cover on the bottom of the aquarium, where the larvae will be spending most of their time.

Feeding Axolotl Larvae
Finely chopped live blackworms form the basis of my diet for newly hatched larvae…a worm feeder lessens the likelihood of the worms clumping together (larvae often choke while trying to swallow large balls of worms).  A brine shrimp hatchery is also useful, and larvae can sometimes be induced to accept freeze dried daphnia and other invertebrates as well.

Further Reading
Pleased see my article Breeding Mexican Axolotls  for additional breeding recommendations.

Those who keep reptiles, especially turtles and lizards, are often of the opinion that amphibians make rather unresponsive pets.  True, a number of frogs and toads “come to life” at feeding time, but by and large amphibians are somewhat more retiring than are most reptiles.  This is especially true of the salamanders, many of which spend the vast majority of their lives in hiding.

A Beautifully-Colored and Responsive Salamander

The strikingly beautiful fire salamander is, however, a notable exception.  Native to cool, mossy woodlands in southwest Asia, much of Europe, and a small portion of northwestern Africa (a continent noted for its lack of salamanders), fire salamanders are as visually oriented as any turtle and eagerly anticipate regular feeding times.  Typically colored jet-black and mottled with bright orange or yellow, one subspecies, Salamandra salamandra fastuosa is largely bright yellow with bold black lines going down the body, legs, and tail (please see photo).

The many fire salamanders I have kept would, without exception, leave their retreats in anticipation of food when I approached their terrarium.  Most feed from the fingers or forceps and are not shy about moving about in broad daylight once they are acclimatized to captivity.  They even move differently than most salamanders – holding their bodies high off the group and “stomping about” in a very determined (and most “un-salamander-like”) manner. And, as you can see from the photo, their bold personalities also suit them well as “amphibian ambassadors” to budding herpetologists!

A Caution Concerning Temperature

Fire salamanders could very well be the ideal amphibian pet for reptile enthusiasts.  Their one drawback is a distinct sensitivity to warm temperatures…a cool basement or similar situation is pretty much a necessity for success with this species.  Although individuals hailing from certain populations are a bit more heat-tolerant than others, nearly all become stressed at temperatures over 72°F.

Breeding and Longevity in My Collection and Elsewhere

However, when properly cared for, fire salamanders are among the most long-lived of all amphibians, with the captive longevity record being just over 50 years.

I received the 2 individuals pictured together here as larvae 14 years ago – they have bred several times and show no signs of slowing down.  They do not lay eggs, but rather give birth to live larvae. Some populations, particularly those living at high elevations, give birth to fully formed little salamanders, skipping the larval stage completely.

How I Keep and Feed Fire Salamanders

I keep my fire salamanders in a basement where yearly temperatures range from 55-68F.

As you can see from the accompanying photo, they feed readily from plastic tongs.  This allows me to increase dietary variety through the use of canned invertebrates – snails are particularly favored.  Field research has shown land snails to be an important part of the natural diet in many regions, so I rely heavily upon these, especially during the winter when other foods are scarce.

I also use canned silkworms, live earthworms (50% of the diet), blackworms, crickets, mealworm beetles, waxworms, sow bugs and wild-caught insects (i.e. moths gathered with the aid of a Zoo Med Bug Napper).

Further Reading

You can learn more about this salamander’s natural history and the threats facing wild populations at http://amphibiaweb.org/cgi/amphib_query?where-genus=Salamandra&where-species=salamandra

Recently I posted an article about native treefrogs in my own collection: My Animal Collection: How a Herpetologist Keeps Barking Treefrogs (Hyla gratiosa) and Gray Treefrogs (Hyla versicolor). Today I’d like to add some thoughts on another US native, the very attractive green treefrog. Please see my earlier article for detailed information on treefrog care.The green treefrog is so often collected for the pet trade, and so inexpensive, that many here take it for granted. It is, however, one of the most beautifully colored of the word’s Hylids, and much favored by hobbyists in other countries.

Feeding Tips
Green treefrogs top out at 2 ½ inches in length, and are slender in build. I’ve found that they do best when given only small insects, the size of a ¼ to ½ inch cricket, despite their willingness to tackle larger prey. I suggest that you avoid adult crickets, large waxworms and the like, as they may be too much for this species’ digestive system to handle on a regular basis.

Perhaps due to their arboreal nature, these frogs react very strongly to flying insects. The feeding response is quite dramatic when I offer them moths and small flies, and noticeably different than their reaction to crickets and waxworms. Small wild-caught insects (Zoo Med’s Bug Napper is an excellent trap) should be given regularly. Most green treefrogs feed readily from plastic tongs….canned silkworms are an excellent addition to the diet. These frogs are persistently arboreal, so burrowing insects such as small butterworms and waxworms should be placed in cups suspended from tree branches, or hand-fed.

Green treefrogs are accomplished jumpers, and adept at snatching insects on the wing. At feeding time, a group I housed in the Bronx Zoo regularly stole the show from their somewhat sedentary exhibit mates – a pair of water moccasins!

Captive Breeding
Unfortunately, little attention is given to breeding this spectacular frog in captivity. Males in the zoo group I mentioned began calling in response to increased showers, but the females did not respond with eggs. As most green treefrogs in the trade hail from Florida and Louisiana, a dry period followed by frequent misting and a rise in temperature of 5-10 F might do the trick.

You can learn more about the natural history of the green treefrog at:
http://www.natureserve.org/explorer/servlet/NatureServe?searchName=Hyla+cinerea