That Reptile Blog » Frank’s Creatures

Black Mamba Memories – Working with one of the World’s Deadliest Snakes

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 03 May 2013 15:03:28 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. As a small boy, I devoured the books of Messrs.’ Ditmars, Kauffeld, Whittaker, Sanderson and others who sought out snakes in their natural habitats. The formidable Black Mamba, (Dendroaspis polylepis), accorded respect by all, was given a special place of honor by legendary snake man C.J.P. Ionides in Mambas and Maneaters. Although I was eager to expand my snake hunting experiences, these authors convinced me that this longest of Africa’s venomous snakes was better observed than handled. Fate intervened, however, and I wound up working closely with what has been described as “Africa’s deadliest snake”. Accounts of the recent escape of a Black Mamba from the Pretoria Zoo brought an experience of my own back to mind…

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Tad Arensmeier

Handling Mambas and Cobras

Zoo-based reptile keepers such as I handle thousands of venomous snakes over the course of their careers. A snake hook generally fits the bill for routine tasks. The Black Mamba, King Cobra and several related species, however, present special challenges, especially when they reach full size. Quick, high-strung, and seemingly more alert and intelligent than others, many Elapids (cobras, mambas and their relatives) are difficult to move via snake hooks….all old reptile keepers have their stories. You can read about my adventures with an escaped King Cobra in this article.

I was fortunate in having had the benefit of working with several older, well- experienced keepers, and had no illusions about “proving” myself when it came to cobras and mambas. I feel that “discretion is the better part of valor” where they are concerned, a belief confirmed by observations made in the course of responding to many snakebite emergencies over the years. Whenever possible, I relied upon shift cages or other “tricks” (please see article below) when I needed to move a mamba.

You Want Me to Do What with the Black Mamba?!

But there came I time when, as consultant for the renovation of the Staten Island Zoo’s reptile house, I was called upon to capture a large Black Mamba and ready it for shipment to another zoo. The snake, a large adult, had not been on a snake hook or otherwise manipulated in years. A shift cage was attached to its exhibit, and the exhibit door was not opened for cleaning unless the snake was locked away in the shift.

Snakes in transit are confined in pillow cases or similar cloth bags, which are tied tightly and then placed into a second bag. Generally a straightforward task… but not with an aggressive, 9 foot-long snake that can flip off a snake hook or exit a bag in the blink of an eye!

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Bill Love / Blue Chameleon Ventures / Reptile & Amphibian Photo Gallery

How to Bag a Black Mamba

After some consideration, I decided to lure rather than force the mamba into a bag. I found a bag of the right size and secured it with duct tape to the opening that led from the exhibit into the shift cage. I then acclimated the snake to feeding within the bag. Black Mambas have fast metabolisms by snake standards, and generally consume quite a bit more food than similarly-sized individuals of other species…hatchlings have been known to reach 6 feet in length within by within one year. Hunger can, therefore, sometimes be used to manipulate them.

You can bet I kept our Black Mamba very hungry prior to shipment! This is standard practice when shipping any snake, as stress can induce regurgitation and related problems, but to be honest I was far more concerned with my stress levels than the mamba’s! When it came time to confine the snake, I rubbed the inside of the bag with a mouse and opened the shift door. Happily, the mamba shot it without hesitation.

I was careful to secure the bag’s opening with a long handled tong, after which I lifted the now violently-moving package into a large plastic garbage can. As is done when packing all snakes, I pulled the neck and 2 feet or so of the bag out of the can, and then placed the can’s lid securely on top. Thus, the snake was confined in that part of the bag which remained within the can, and the lid prevented it from reaching the bag’s neck (or my hand). I could now safely tie the bag by hand, and then secure it further with a cable tie.

I think that some of my younger co-workers would have preferred a more dramatic capture, but I was quite pleased with myself (as was the zoo’s curator and the doctor who had been placed on notice at the local hospital!).

Natural History

Occasionally approaching 14 feet in length, the Black Mamba is the longest of Africa’s venomous snakes, and its venom is among the most toxic to be found on the continent. Add to this a wide range, the ability to colonize farms and villages, and a propensity to bite multiple times in quick succession when threatened, and it becomes clear why this a creature of much concern and deserving of detailed study. Yet it remains difficult to separate mamba fact from fiction. I’ll cover Black Mamba lore and natural history in the near future.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Snake Hunting with Romulus Whittaker

Snake Escapes: Recapturing Cobras and Others

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Black Mamba Memories – Working with one of the World’s Deadliest Snakes

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Working with the False Gharial – One of the World’s Largest Crocodiles

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 13 Mar 2013 14:42:58 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I find it difficult to express just how fortunate I’ve been in having had the chance to work with 12 Crocodilian species in the wild and captivity. Breeding Dwarf Caimans, wrestling Orinoco Crocodiles into boats, getting up close and personal to Gomek (a giant, now famous Salt Water Croc), rearing Indian Gharials…these and many other experiences remain etched in my memory. One species in particular cemented my interest in the group, and remains as much a mystery today as it was when I first saw it some 40 years ago – the massive False Gharial, Tomistoma schlegelii.

A Mysterious Giant

The False Gharial, which may exceed 16 feet in length, is the least-studied of the large Crocodilians, and among the rarest. It has been bred in captivity only 3 times in the last 60 years (once at the Bronx Zoo, prior to my tenure) and few US zoos exhibit them today; 28 reside in European zoos, while South America is home to 1 specimen.

A secretive nature keeps the False Gharial shrouded in mystery. The few field studies that have been carried out (please see below) indicate that it has been exterminated from much of its range.

My Introduction to the False Gharial

During my years with the Bronx Zoo, I was lucky enough to have 4 adult False Gharials under my care, including the only proven breeders in the Western Hemisphere. They were huge beasts, the largest of which topped 600 pounds in weight. Each had been in the collection for 20-30 years when I began working with them. I clearly recall seeing these same animals when visiting the zoo as a teenager, but their increased size did not fully register until I dug out some old food cards. Upon arrival at the zoo, they were feeding upon goldfish…they now downed whole chickens without effort, and were capable of taking much larger meals!

I was especially struck by the False Gharials’ jaws. I had previously worked with a related species, the Indian Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus). The Indian Gharial feeds primarily upon fish that are captured with uniquely-long and slender jaws. The False Gharial’s jaws are also elongated, but they are in no way slender! Up close, the massive bones and muscles that anchor these powerful weapons are readily apparent. It was easy to imagine that, as I had read in field reports, wild False Gharials regularly dined on Proboscis Monkeys and other sizable mammals.

Mom Salvages my Honor…perhaps

The difference between False Gharial and Indian Gharial jaws was brought home to me when I first tried to urge a False Gharial out of my way while servicing its exhibit. With Indian Gharials, there was a chance that the jaw might be damaged if an animal struck the “croc pole” (a thick pole used to nudge crocs and keep them at a safe distance); the first time a male False Gharial hit my pole it splintered and flew out of my hands. He and his mate charged and, now unarmed, I fled out the exhibit service door.

While in retreat I noticed my mother, a long-term Bronx Zoo volunteer, pointing me out to a group of school children. Fearing I had worried her (again!), I came out from behind the exhibit. I found my mom, ever-confident in my abilities, explaining to the children that experience and training had enabled me to know just how to react in this dangerous situation. Not wishing to disillusion her or her wide-eyed audience, I did not point out that adrenaline and common sense were largely responsible for my inglorious exit!

False Gharials vs. Cuban Crocodiles

False Gharials drew me into an even more dangerous incident some years later. Seven Cuban Crocodiles (Crocodylus rhombifer) broke through a wall and invaded an exhibit housing a pair of False Gharials. I and two co-workers waded in and tried to separate the enraged combatants while also protecting one another from attack. In the ensuing two hour battle, we escaped injury and were able to separate the animals. Many bore bite wounds, but crocs have amazing immune systems, and all healed without further complications.

Transporting Crocodiles

I’ve helped to grab, tie and transport adult False Gharials on four occasions, and each experience confirmed my belief that these heavily-armored creatures are among the world’s most physically impressive reptiles. I’ve “wrestled” with other large crocs in the course of my work (please see Marsh Crocodile photo), but none battled as hard or seemed as “indestructible” as did False Gharials.

Sadly, I learned that they too have weaknesses. In time, zoos began experimenting with sedatives as a means of rendering crocodile relocations less dangerous for both keeper and kept. Unfortunately, little was known about the effects of medications designed primarily for mammals, and we lost two adult False Gharials to complications arising from the use of Ketamine.

Natural History

Although some ambitious field studies have been undertaken (please see “Further Reading”, below), we know surprisingly little of the False Gharial’s life in the wild. Unlike most large crocodilians, it is quite secretive, and dwells in habitats that are difficult to survey.

Taxonomy

The False Gharial is placed in the Order Crocodylia (25 species) and Family Crocodylidae (16 species). Recent evidence of its relationship to the Indian Gharial may lead to a reclassification in the Family Gavialidae.

Range

Once found throughout much of Southeast Asia, the False Gharial is now extinct in Thailand, Vietnam and Sulawesi. Today it survives only on the Malay Peninsula, Borneo, Sumatra and Kalimantan. In the early 2000’s, a remnant population was discovered in western Java. Additional surveys are needed (please check here http://tomistoma.org/pa/ for survey updates).

Habitat

The False Gharial inhabits heavily-vegetated peat swamps and slow-moving “black water” rivers. There is evidence that it occasionally enters the tidal portions of certain rivers.

Diet

The long, slender jaws of young False Gharials indicate that they are fish specialists. The jaws thicken with age, allowing adults to take monkeys, small deer, birds, snakes, turtles and other creatures.

Reproduction

Females scrape together a mound of dead vegetation in which to deposit their 20-30 large eggs, but appear not to guard the nest or young. Eggs are likely lost to wild pigs, Water Monitors and other predators.

Conservation

The False Gharial is extinct in several countries and is threatened elsewhere by dam building, gold mining, incidental capture in fishing nets, and the over-harvesting of fish. Fewer than 2,500 adults are believed to remain, but accurate surveys are lacking. Fortunately, several populations are located within reserves that also shelter Orangutans and other creatures better known to the public.

The only predator of larger False Gharials appears to be the Salt Water Crocodile, Crocodylus porosus.

The False Gharial is classified as “Endangered” by the IUCN and is listed on Appendix I of CITES.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Fishing for Alligators in NYC’s Sewers

Field Report: False Gharials in Kalimantan

False Gharial Interest Group

One Ton Crocodile Captured

False Gharial in enclosure image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by kennyannydenny

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Working with the False Gharial – One of the World’s Largest Crocodiles

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The Best Filters for Axolotls, Clawed Frogs, Newts and Other Amphibians

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 17 Jan 2013 21:02:41 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. With their highly-permeable skins, amphibians absorb ammonia and other pollutants over a greater surface area than do fishes. Surinam Toads, Axolotls, tadpoles and other aquatic amphibians are most at risk from poor water quality, but even terrestrial species such as toads and Fire Salamanders can quickly succumb to water-borne toxins while soaking in terrarium pools. Keeping their water clean, both visibly and chemically, can be quite a challenge.

General Considerations

Natural History

Your pet’s natural history will determine the type of filter that should be used. For example, newts and Dwarf Clawed Frogs will be stressed by fast currents, Hellbenders are extra-sensitive to water quality, many species are prone to bacterial attack in highly-oxygenated waters, and so on. Please post below if you need help in selecting a filter.

Types of Filtration

Biological filtration, wherein aerobic bacteria convert ammonia to less harmful compounds (nitrites and nitrates), is the most important of the three basic filtration processes. Ammonia enters the water via dead animals and plants, uneaten food and the occupants’ waste products. The organisms involved in the process, Nitrosomas and Nitrobacter bacteria, live on substrates that are bathed with oxygenated water (i.e. gravel, filter pads).

Aerobic bacteria starter cultures may be purchased (i.e. Nutrafin Cycle) or obtained from the filter materials in a well-established tank. Always leave a bit of old material in your filter when changing carbon or filter pads, so that aerobic bacteria will seed the new filter medium.

Suspended solids and chemicals are removed from the aquarium through mechanical and chemical filtration.

Live Plants

Aquatic plants will assist filters in maintaining water quality and amphibian health. Pothos, Peace Lilies and other terrestrial plants that adapt to watery environments can also be used. Please do not discount the effects of live plants…I and many others can attest that they can make a real difference.

Water Changes

The use of a filter does not eliminate the need for regular water changes, as ammonia will accumulate even in well-filtered enclosures.

Undergravel Filters

Yes, they are largely ignored today, but I believe this to be serious error. I have used undergravel filters to successfully keep a wide range of delicate amphibians, and have included them in several of the large zoo exhibits I’ve designed.

Undergravel filters transform the entire aquarium substrate into a biological filter. Water drawn through the gravel nourishes beneficial aerobic bacteria and inhibits the growth of harmful anaerobic species. The return tubes can be cut so that even a small pool in a terrarium can be filtered.

Undergravel filters are especially useful when rearing eggs, larvae and tadpoles, because they will not injure animals with suction and strong currents. Please see this article for detailed information on their use.

Corner or Box Filters

These “old-fashioned” inside-the-tank filters are actually quite effective if powered by sufficient airflow. I maintain a number of tanks using corner filters alone. In addition to providing mechanical and chemical filtration, these filters support aerobic bacteria that assist in ammonia detoxification.

Ideally, a corner filter should have low and high intake ports, so that water will be pulled from the very bottom of the tank and at a slightly higher level I recommend the Lee Triple Flow; most others lack low intakes. As a corner filters outflow is directed upwards, strong currents that might disturb eggs, larvae or weak-swimmers are avoided.

Corner filters can be easily hidden with plants. Live Java Moss is ideal for this purpose.

Sponge Filters

Sponge filters provide mechanical and biological filtration, and are ideal for use with amphibian eggs and larvae, and delicate specimens. They work well with African Clawed Frog tadpoles and other filter-feeders, as minute food particles are not rapidly removed from the water. This is also a consideration when salamander larvae are being reared, as many feed upon Daphnia, brine shrimp and other tiny creatures that may be pulled into more powerful filters.

The filter should be periodically cleaned by rinsing it in cool water (hot water will kill beneficial bacteria). Chemical filtration is not provided, so regular water changes are especially important.

Zoo Med Turtle Clean Canister Filter

This powerful filter is designed with turtle-keepers in mind (please see this article for information on filtering turtle tanks). In common with fish canister filters, the Turtle Clean has ample chambers for carbon, filter pads and aerobic bacteria colonies, and is simple to clean. It is placed next to (not below) the tank, and can be used to create a waterfall effect.

Despite its size and power, the Turtle Clean Filter can operate in as little as 2 inches of water, rendering it ideal for use in terrarium ponds or in shoreline-type setups housing American Bullfrogs, Leopard Frogs and similar species.

A powerful motor enables this filter to handle the copious wastes produced by Mudpuppies, Sirens, Amphiumas, Surinam Toads and other large amphibians. However, water can also be returned to the aquarium via a spray bar, so that newts and other small amphibians can also be maintained.

Supreme Ovation Submersible Power Jet Filter

The Supreme Ovation is first submersible, combined pump and filter to be marketed in the USA; my original unit operated continuously, under great strain, for approximately 20 years!

The four models currently available are extremely powerful, but are equipped with a movable outlet tube and a spray bar so that strong currents can be avoided. The largest (Model 1000) circulates 265 gallons per minute, yet is compact and easy to service.

Other Filters

Nearly all filters designed for use with tropical fishes can be of use to amphibian keepers. Although certain modifications may be required, many are worth investigating as a great deal of research has gone into their development.

You can check out 50+ aquarium filters options here. Please be sure to post your ideas, experiences and questions below.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Undergravel Filters in Terrariums and Aquariums

Ammonia Toxicity in Amphibians

Amphibian Lab Filtration Techniques

Filtering Turtle Tanks

NutraFin Cycle: Bacteria in a bottle

Axolotls image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by ZeWrestler
Tadpoles image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by MarJon

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The Best Filters for Axolotls, Clawed Frogs, Newts and Other Amphibians

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Jumping Spiders – Captive Care, New Species and a Surprise (They Watch Videos!)

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 18 Dec 2012 15:04:02 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. As a bug-hunting child, I was once startled to come upon a housefly that appeared to be walking on its hind legs. Closer inspection revealed that the unfortunate insect was being carried in a head-up position by a Jumping Spider. I was aware that a variety of these brilliantly-colored little beasts inhabited my Bronx neighborhood, and became interested in how they managed to capture such elusive prey without a web. I began reading and collecting, and was soon fascinated by their keen eyesight and cat-like stalking techniques. They would follow my finger, leap on a feathers pulled by a string, and even display to a mirrors.

I’ve recently learned that biologists are showing videos to Jumping Spiders in an attempt to learn more about their remarkable eyes (which allow for forward, backward, an sideways vision simultaneously), and that a new ant-mimicking Jumping Spider with enormous fangs has turned up in Borneo. I’ll highlight this new information below, and review their natural history and captive care.

A 360 Degree Field of Vision

Animals that are on the menus of other creatures generally have eyes set well back and to the sides of their heads. This arrangement gives mice, deer and others a wide field of vision, with the only bind spots being well to their rear. Predators, such as foxes and hawks, usually have forward-facing eyes, to allow for accurate focusing on prey.

Jumping Spiders, which are both predator and prey, take vision a step further. Research recently published in the journal Royal Society Biology Letters establishes that their eye placement and function allows for a field of vision that is very close to 360 degrees. In effect, Jumping Spiders can see directly behind their bodies, to all sides, and forwards – simultaneously! In lab experiments, the spiders watched both videos and people’s actions with apparent interest (I’m not sure how much they understood, but then again I miss a lot as well!). As most spiders see very little in the way of detail, these advanced abilities are quite surprising.

A Unique Visual System

University of Massachusetts researchers discovered that the retinas of the 2 principal eyes are shaped like boomerangs. These retinas rest in tubes located within the spiders’ heads. By moving these tubes, Jumping Spiders can scan a very wide area about the body. This method of visualizing the environment has not been previously recorded. The principal eyes also see color and detect ultraviolet light. Ultraviolet light enhances the spiders’ colors, and plays a role in species recognition and courtship.

Six secondary eyes, located on the sides and rear of the head, detect motion and detail, and also allow the spiders to see objects directly behind the body.

Future Research

Researchers hope that further study will reveal how Jumping Spider brains process visual images, knowledge that may offer insights into the workings of our own eyes and brains.

Natural History

The Jumping Spider family, Salticidae, is the spider world’s largest. Nearly 5,000 species have been described, and many more, no doubt, await discovery. Jumping Spiders may be found in habitats ranging from rainforests and deserts to cities and seashores. I’ve collected several species, each varying in color and size, within NYC.

Hunting Techniques

I’ve always been fascinated by those Jumping Spiders known as “ant mimics”. Their bodies have an insect-like “waist”, and they move about with jerky steps, in imitation of their favorite food. Some even hold the front pair of legs upright, so that they seem to bear antennae! Thus disguised, they are able to approach ants without being attacked. I imagine the spiders also gain some protection from predators by being associated with ant colonies. Please see this article for photos of an amazing, huge-jawed ant mimic recently discovered in Borneo.

In addition to stalking their prey with cat-like stealth, Jumping Spiders utilize other hunting styles. Several have been observed to take detours when moving in on a potential meal. Amazingly, these detours sometimes place the spiders in positions where they cannot see the insect being stalked. Whether “planning” or memory comes into play is not yet known.

Several Jumping Spiders specialize in capturing web-building spiders, inducing their prey into striking range by vibrating webs in imitation of a trapped insect. Some even rappel into webs on silk strands!

Small Legs, Long Leaps

Unlike the large rear legs of grasshoppers and other notable jumpers, those of Jumping Spiders are smaller than the front legs. Rather than relying upon muscle strength, Jumping Spiders utilize hydraulic pressure to facilitate their amazing leaps.

Jumping Spiders in Captivity

I cannot understand why so few spider enthusiasts keep these fascinating creatures. Active by day and extremely bold, Jumping Spiders will reveal much about their lifestyles in small, simple enclosures. In contrast to nearly every other spider, they will follow your movements with interest. The colors and mating dances of the males are thrilling to observe, and captive breeding is possible. Please post questions below if you would like detailed information on their care.

Jumping Spiders are not known to be dangerously toxic, but should not be handled as their venoms are not well-studied. Spiders can be gently nudged into a plastic container via tongs when being collected or transported.

Jumping Spider fans may also be interested in keeping the Giant Crab or Huntsman Spider (Heteropoda venatoria), a species I’ve collected and bred over many years; please see this article for further information.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

World’s Largest Snake – Finding and Keeping a Giant Reticulated Python

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 21 Nov 2012 16:35:04 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. While working at the Bronx Zoo, I had the once-in-a lifetime opportunity of helping to import and care for one of the largest snakes in captivity. While “largest snake” debates are ongoing, the massive Reticulated Python I came to know was awe-inspiring by any standard. Dubbed “Samantha”, she was captured as an adult in Borneo, and eventually reached 26 feet in length and 275 pounds in weight. The story of how she arrived in the USA involves a cash reward established by Theodore Roosevelt, the leather trade, animal dealers and other twists and turns.

Wanted: 30 Foot-Long-Snake

In 1910, Theodore Roosevelt, long involved with the Bronx Zoo, offered a reward to the first person who presented a snake of 30 feet in length; in time the reward grew to $50,000. In 1992, I and other Bronx Zoo staff heard rumors that a giant Reticulated Python that had been captured in Borneo. We did not get overly-excited… being well-seasoned, I automatically deducted 25-50% from the size of any “biggest snake-turtle-croc” stories that came my way. But then grainy photos arrived by mail, and the snake depicted was, if not the largest I’d seen, impressive. Whether by design or bad luck, the photos did not allow us to accurately gauge the animal’s length.

In those pre-internet days, it was difficult to correspond with the leather company that owned the snake, which was confined in a railroad car near Samarinda, Borneo. Then as now, importing large animals was fraught with difficulties. Therefore, we enlisted the help of a local leather company with ties in the region and a trusted animal importer.

Meeting a Giant

I was on hand to pick up the snake when she arrived at Kennedy Airport in 1993, but just barely, as there were several cancellations and other problems. I found out about the shipment at the last minute, while at a restaurant. The ensuing trip to Kennedy and the zoo wound up being an interesting first date for my companion, who was not interested in reptiles!

As soon as we hoisted the snake’s crate, we surmised that it did not contain a record-breaker. Our suspicions were confirmed once we stretched Samantha out on the reptile house floor. At a “mere” 21 feet in length and 175 pounds in weight, she was impressive, but far short of what we had been led to believe.

However, after having handled hundreds of large constrictors, I’m able to say that our new arrival was stronger by far than any captive-raised snake of similar size. I’ve also noticed this regarding captive-bred Green Anacondas, when compared to those I’ve caught in the field. As in other species, her muscle tone was also noticeably different than that of her more sedentary relatives.

Wrestling With a Giant (and losing!)

In the wrestling match that broke out once we unpacked Samantha, I wound up in the weighing crate with her. She pushed outward and pinned me against the crate’s side. I know what broken ribs feel like, and mine were just about to crack when my co-workers managed to pull her away from me. Only a few seconds had elapsed, and she was pushing out, not constricting (when she could have exerted far more pressure), but there was no doubt that I was grossly over-matched!

Human-Python Interactions

It was difficult to obtain background information on Samantha…a great disappointment given her size and the fact that she was captured near a village. She was well known by local people, and reportedly used a cave as her main shelter. When Samantha began raiding chicken coops, she was easy to locate. Unfortunately, the actual details of her capture were never revealed.

Reticulated Pythons often adapt well to human presence, and occur even within Bangkok and Singapore, where dogs, rats, cats and livestock form part of their diets. Visiting Singapore Zoo keepers once told me that they lost an adult Cape Hunting Dog to a free-ranging Retic. I recently came across a fascinating article which revealed that 26% of the Philippine Agta men in one region have been attacked by Reticulated Pythons, with 6 deaths resulting. Please see this article for details.

Giant Snake Diets

Samantha proved quite calm as compared to other adult, wild-caught Retics I’ve worked with. Her diet was comprised of 25-30 pound pigs, one of which she consumed each 4-6 weeks. She was certainly capable of taking larger meals, but remained in good health on this feeding regime. At her death in November of 2002, Samantha measured 26 feet in length and tipped the scales at 275 pounds.

The largest snake meal I’ve witnessed was a 60 pound White-Tailed Deer taken by a wild Green Anaconda in Venezuela. I’ve observed and read about many others…please see this article, and post your own experiences below.

Other Giants

The internet is stocked with claims of giant snake sightings, but many border on the ridiculous…and cross that border! However, there are a few legitimate giants in zoos and private collections, including several that are well known by “first name” to snake fans – “Fluffy” and “Marcy” are especially popular.

Clifford Pope’s 1961 classic, The Giant Snakes, is a great resource for snake enthusiasts. His photo of the massive “Colossus” inspired many herpetologists of my generation.

What’s Next?

The Bronx Zoo’s $50,000 reward has been withdrawn, but I like to think that a 30-foot-long Anaconda or Retic is lurking somewhere even as I write these words. Please let me know your thoughts on this prospect, and I’d love to hear any stories, rumors or experiences you may have.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Amphibian Care during Power Outages – Bacteria, Disease and Oxygen

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 13 Nov 2012 17:20:11 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Hurricane Sandy, which hit the Northeastern USA in October of 2012, caused losses to both private herp keepers and zoos. My own collection, home to a 32+ year-old Red Salamander and several others aged 20+, thankfully fared very well. The zoos and aquariums for which I consult are working to limit losses; I’ll provide updates via Twitter.

Reptile care during power outages is well-understood by most, so today I’ll focus on amphibians, as their unique needs can be easily over-looked. Most of the points mentioned below also apply to semi-aquatic species.

Filter Care and Bacteria Die-offs

When power fails, submersible, corner, and other internal filters should be removed from the aquarium. When oxygenated water is flowing through a filter, ammonia is converted to less toxic nitrites and nitrates by beneficial aerobic bacteria. Once the flow of water stops, the resident beneficial bacteria perish and your filter becomes a source of decomposing organic material, poisoning the already-stressed aquarium inhabitants. Fish keepers are well aware of these processes, which are part of the nitrogen cycle. An understanding of the nitrogen cycle will enhance your ability to keep and breed amphibians; (please see this article).

As the contents of external aquarium filters are not in direct contact with the water, they will not immediately add to the pollution problem. However, these filters should be disconnected, because when electric power is restored they will flood the tank with ammonia and other toxins. Amphibians lack the protection offered by fish scales, and so succumb to ammonia poisoning quickly when water conditions deteriorate (scale-less fishes, such as eels, loaches, and certain catfishes, are also sensitive).

When Power Returns

Before being re-connected, the filtration material in internal and external filters should be replaced or rinsed.

Under normal circumstances, you can re-seed a newly-cleaned filter with aerobic bacteria by leaving in a bit of used filter material; alternatively, you can replace only a portion of the material when the filter is serviced. After a power outage, however, your filters will not contain living bacteria. Nutrafin Cycle can be used to reintroduce live beneficial bacteria to your filters. A colleague of mine who works at a major frog-breeding laboratory vouches for this useful product. Upon his recommendation, I’ve begun to use Nutrafin in water bowls and after regular filter changes as well (please see this article).

“Insurance”: Check Valves

Check valves are an inexpensive (as in “less than $2”) yet often over-looked means of limiting damages during power failures. These simple devices prevent water from flowing up airline tubing and out of the tank when pumps shut down.

Parasite and Disease Concerns

Spiking ammonia levels depress amphibian immune systems, as does the often rapid rise in temperature once power returns. Cold temperatures are generally less of a concern than is the case for reptiles, but this will vary by species. I’ve observed Fire Salamanders moving about normally at 38 F (while trying to induce dormancy), and my Red, Marbled and Tiger Salamanders feed throughout the winter at 55 F. Temperature reduction can even be used as a medical treatment; please see this article for some interesting observations.

Temperatures that are too cold for a particular species, or a rapid temperature change, can stress the immune system. Parasites and pathogens are always present in the aquarium, even when conditions are ideal. Healthy frogs and salamanders can fight off many common invaders, but often become ill when their immune systems are not working at full throttle.

One of the most common parasites to afflict immune-depressed fishes is the protozoan Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, which causes the infection widely known as “Ich”. Many have long suspected that this micro-organism also infects amphibians, and indeed this was confirmed in 1999 (please see this article). Fish medications have proven useful, but should be administered to amphibians gradually, beginning with half the recommended dose. I’ve had great results using Methylene Blue to treat ailing amphibians, and as a prophylactic step; please see this article.

Other problems may develop, even after conditions are back to normal. For example, food consumed prior to the outage may remain undigested and lead to a serious infection. Please post any questions you may have below.

Oxygen Deprivation

The water’s oxygen content drops rapidly once pumps shut down. Commonly-kept aquatic amphibians that rely primarily upon their gills (Mudpuppies, Axolotls) or skin (Hellbenders) for respiration can also take in oxygen at the water’s surface, via the lungs. However, this is stressful to secretive species that generally remain in underwater retreats. Tadpoles and salamander larvae may, depending upon their stage of development, be able to gulp air at the surface.

Aerators and Oxygen Tablets

There are a number of things you can do to provide oxygen for your aquatic amphibians during power failures. Battery-operated aerators are very effective. The Penn Plax Silent Air B-11 is especially useful, as it turns on automatically when electricity fails. Oxygen Stones – tablets that create bubbles as they dissolve – should also be on hand.

Plants, Manual Aeration, Water Changes

Live plants, especially those that do well in low-light conditions, can make a real difference in oxygen levels and water quality. Java Moss lives quite well in my aquatic insect tanks, which receive only ambient room light, and survived 6 days in near total darkness in my larger aquariums.

Don’t forget manual aeration. By simply scooping up some water and pouring in into your tank from above, you can significantly raise oxygen levels.

Partial water changes will add oxygen while reducing toxin levels. Water leaves my tap at 60 F, which is fine for many amphibians. Water changes will go a long way in helping your animals to survive.

What’s Next…What Can I Do?

Even after all is back to normal, watch your pets carefully for signs of the concerns mentioned above. Please write in for more information on hurricane-related issues.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Turtleback Zoo Tends to People and Animals during Hurricane

First Documentation of “Ich” in Frogs

Nutrafin Cycle

Extreme Cold Hardiness in Amphibians

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Amphibian Care during Power Outages – Bacteria, Disease and Oxygen

The post Amphibian Care during Power Outages – Bacteria, Disease and Oxygen appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Land Hermit Crabs and Coconut Crabs (the world’s largest) as Pets

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 07 Nov 2012 14:45:59 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. People are often surprised to learn that Land or Terrestrial Hermit Crabs engage in complex social behaviors, are capable of communicating via “chirps” and, with proper care, may live for over 20 years. I’ve had the pleasure of working with them at home, in zoos and the wild, and have even kept the massive, awe-inspiring Coconut Crab. Please read on to learn about their care and natural history, and be sure to post your own thoughts and experiences.

Natural History

The Purple-Pincher or Caribbean Hermit Crab (Coenobita clypeatus) is the most common pet trade species. It ranges throughout the Caribbean, reaching as far north as Florida and Bermuda.

Some populations live at altitudes of over 3,000 feet, but females return to the sea, usually in one massive migration, to spawn. The larvae, or zoea, float about with plankton for 2 months, after which they take up life on land.

Land Hermit Crabs carry about the discarded shells of other creatures as shelters, and must find larger shells as they grow. Recently it was discovered that they will line up in size order behind an empty shell – as the first crab (the largest) moves into its new home, others in line will “trade up” for the shell of the crab immediately in front of them! Please see the article below for details.

Ecuadorian Hermit Crabs (Coenobita compressus) and several Asian species also appear in the pet trade. The Coconut Crab (Birgus latro) is sometimes kept within its native range.

Behavior

Land Hermit Crabs are nocturnal, but pets often emerge to feed by day. When established in a properly-designed terrarium, they will be quite active and exhibit many interesting behaviors.

Handling is stressful to Hermit Crabs, including long-term pets. They can be grasped by the back of the shell, but often can reach this area with their claw. Large individuals can administer a painful pinch, and I’d bet that the Coconut Crab can break fingers!

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

A 10 gallon aquarium will accommodate 4-5 small crabs. Large, naturalistic terrariums will allow the crabs to exhibit a wider range of behaviors than will small, bare enclosures.

Driftwood, cholla wood, reptile caves, up-ended clay flower pots and similar furnishings will add greatly to your crabs’ quality of life. Empty shells should always be available.

A molting tank should be set up if you keep more than one crab. Land Hermit Crabs are soft and defenseless after molting, and will be eaten by their former friends. Check daily for signs of an impending molt – digging, remaining below ground and listlessness are typical. Molting crabs should be isolated (please write in for information).

Substrate

A mix of calcium sand and coconut husk makes an ideal substrate. The substrate should be at least 6 inches deep and mixed with enough water so that is just sticks together when squeezed.

Light

Red/black reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your crabs after dark. A 12-hour day/12 -hour night cycle is ideal.

Heat

A temperature range of 75-82 F should be maintained. These tropical creatures will not survive long term exposure to temperatures below 72 F.

Incandescent bulbs or red/black reptile night bulbs can be used to heat the terrarium. Ceramic reptile heaters are useful at night. Reptile heat pads can be used to warm the substrate, but these do little to heat the air. All of the above will dry out the substrate, so it is important to monitor the humidity.

Humidity

Land Hermit Crabs possess unique gills that enable them to breathe air. A humidity level of 70-80% is vital to survival, as the gills must be kept moist in order to function. A simple humidity meter should be used. Humidity can be increased by misting, adding water to the substrate and partially covering the terrarium’s lid with plastic.

Companions

Land Hermit Crabs are social animals, but dominant individuals may prevent others from feeding properly. Crabs that are molting must be isolated or they will be attacked (please see above). A variety of empty shells must be available, or fighting and “evictions” will ensue.

Feeding

Wild Hermit Crabs eat just about everything – animal, vegetable and mineral – that they encounter. Captives will not thrive without a varied, high-calcium diet.

Commercial Hermit Crab pellets may be used as a portion of the diet. The following foods should be included regularly: fresh shrimp and fish, fruits and vegetables (carrot may help to maintain coloration), hard-boiled egg, nuts, seeds, dry seaweed (sold as Nori), oatmeal, fish flakes, canned crickets, and freeze-dried fish foods (krill, plankton, brine shrimp, etc.). They also relish decaying wood and leaf litter; these should be collected from pesticide-free areas.

Cuttlebone bits and reptile calcium powder should be mixed into your crabs’ food.

Often overlooked is their need for a bowl of marine water; marine aquarium salt mixes, not table salt, should be used. Soaking in this water will provide the crabs with essential minerals not present in their food. Fresh de-chlorinated water should also be available. Bowls should be filled to half the height of the smallest crab and be easily-exited, as Land Hermit Crabs drown easily.

A wide variety of specialty cages, supplies and foods are now available. Please post any questions or comments you may have regarding their use.

The Coconut or Robber Crab (Birgus latro)

With a 16 inch body supported by legs spanning 3 feet, this impressive beast (described as “monstrous” by Charles Darwin!) is the world’s largest land-dwelling arthropod. I first saw them at the Cincinnati Zoo Insectarium in the early 1980’s, and was instantly hooked. After a prolonged search, I obtained 2 adults for an exhibit at the Bronx Zoo. Unfortunately, they did not fare very well, and this seems to be a common experience (wild individuals may attain age 40+). Losses are especially high during the month-long molt, which is spent underground.

The Coconut Crab ranges throughout the Indian and Western Pacific Oceans. A co-worker of mine found them raiding his garbage cans on Guam; his experiences with refuse-feeding coatis and coyotes elsewhere in no way prepared him for that!

Coconuts may be their best-known food, but form only a small portion of the diet. Generally, the crabs pinch nuts from coconut palms, and then feast on the broken remains below. A crab may also pull back the husk from an unbroken coconut and then pierce the soft “eye” with one of its pointed legs. The rest of the diet is as varied as that of their smaller relatives.

Coconut Crabs are declining in portions of their range. Threatened by food trade collection and predation by introduced rats, ants, pigs and monkeys, they have been extirpated from Australia and Madagascar.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Halloween Creatures – Orange Crabs, Ghost Frogs, Vampires, Goblins…

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 30 Oct 2012 15:34:38 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Herp and invertebrate enthusiasts are never at a loss for frightening, even “ghoulish” (to “regular” people) stories. With Halloween just around the corner, I’d like to highlight some creatures whose names or habits associate them with this holiday. Some, such as Thailand’s fanged, bird-eating frog and the skin-feeding Caecilian, are relatively new discoveries. I’ve taken the liberty of extending beyond our usual subjects to include a parrot-eating bat and the well-named Goblin Shark.

Halloween Crab, Gecarcinus quadratus

Bright orange color and brilliant “eye-spots” on a round carapace lend this crab a pumpkin-like appearance. Highly terrestrial, it lives along forest edges from Mexico to southern South America, returning to the sea only to reproduce. Studies have shown that Halloween Crabs recycle vast quantities of dead leaves, acting as the “earthworms” of their ecosystems.

I’ve kept Halloween Crabs in zoo exhibits for years, and couldn’t resist purchasing a few at a recent reptile expo. They make interesting terrarium subjects, and often give up their nocturnal ways to forage by day. Please post a comment below if you would like information on their care.

Ming’ori (Skin-Eating) Caecilian, Boulengerula taitana

Caecilians are the least-studied of the amphibians, so surprises are to be expected as we learn more about them. But even seasoned herpetologists were shocked by what can only be described as the “nightmarish” feeding behavior of this species. Young Ming’oris feed upon their mother’s skin, which is re-grown every few days. The feeding frenzy exhibited by these savage, legless amphibians is difficult to believe…but you can see it in the video linked below!

False Vampire Bat, Megaderma lyra

I’ve worked with True Vampire Bats in captivity, and have slept beneath nets to avoid their “attention” in the tropics…but they are, in reality, very shy. Not so the massive False Vampire Bat, which swoops out of the night to carry off mice, frogs, birds and smaller bats (Australia’s Spectral Bat has similar habits, please see photo).

I missed the chance to see this amazing predator while working in Costa Rica, but did find a hollow tree where one roosted. The floor below was littered with parrot feathers and frog skulls. Shortly thereafter, one of our resident Amazon Parrots disappeared overnight, and many suspected that a False Vampire was the culprit. You can read about this incident here.

Thailand Fanged Frog, Limnonectes megastomias

Horned and African Bullfrogs are well known for using their tooth-like odontoid processes (extensions of the jaw bone) to inflict wounds on careless owners. But a recently-discovered frog in Thailand sports even longer “teeth”, and uses them to ambush a unique food – birds! Males also employ the teeth to slash at one another during mating disputes. You can see a photo of their 2-inch-long weapons in the article linked below.

Fire Salamander, Salamandra salamandra

This brilliantly-colored salamander was rarely seen by people, as it stayed within dead logs save for rainy nights. When logs were burned for fuel, the salamanders emerged, seemingly “from the fire”, and crawled away. In time, Fire Salamanders became associated with witchcraft, and are likely the species people had in mind when telling of “witches’ brews” (their skin toxins do contain a complex mixture of unique chemicals…maybe these were “sampled”?).

Fire Salamanders make very personable pets, being far more responsive than many amphibians. My pair is nearly 18 years old, and others have kept them for over 5 decades. Please see this article for further information.

Camel Spiders or Windscorpions (Order Solifugae) and Tailless Whipscorpions, Damon variegatus

Neither spiders nor scorpions, these arachnids are an arachnophobe’s nightmare. In their natural habitat, the diurnal Windscorpions have the unnerving habit of following people so as to stay in their shadow. This, and their ragged, out-sized jaws (see photo) render them quite “un-loved” – to say the least! Tailless Whipscorpions are more secretive, but their immense pinchers give pause to even the most die-hard arachnid enthusiasts.

Both make interesting terrarium subjects for those with some experience. Please see these articles on Windscorpions to learn more.

Goblin Shark, Mitsukurina owstoni

The huge, extendible jaws of this deep sea predator, and the odd muscle that sucks food towards them, seem to have sprung from the imagination of a science fiction writer (please see photo). Living at depths of 600 – 4,000+ feet, the Goblin Shark has been found in far-flung locations; little is known of its natural history.

Rose’s Ghost Frog, Heleophrynidae rosei

Nothing scary about this little fellow…except for the fact that it lives only within several miles of habitat on South Africa’s Table Mountain, and is in rapid decline! Ghost Frogs are the most ancient of the “modern” Anurans, having diverged from their closest relatives some 160 million years ago. Large toe pads and extra skin folds (for oxygen absorption) suit the Ghost Frog for life near fast-moving streams. Its eggs have never been found.

Hellbender, Cryptobranchus alleganiensis

As a child, I was fascinated by this heaviest of North America’s salamanders, and couldn’t imagine why grown men considered it “from hell” and would reportedly cut a fishing line rather than reel one in. Years later, I had the good fortune to work with Hellbenders, and even to see their 5-foot-long relative, the Japanese Giant Salamander, in its native land. I wonder what reaction this behemoth would cause in the average angler!

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Boa Constrictors and their Relatives – Natural History and Captive Care

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:34:39 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The 53 species in the family Boidae are an amazingly diverse group of snakes that have colonized habitats ranging from rainforests to deserts, in countries as diverse as Canada and India. Among them we find treetop dwellers, aquatic species, confirmed burrowers and generalists equally at home in farmland, savannas, desert fringes and forests. I’ve had the good fortune of studying Anacondas, Rosy Boas and others in the wild, and remain fascinated by all. Please be sure to post some thoughts about your favorites below.

Classification and Terminology

The family Boidae is divided into 3 subfamilies. Most boas are placed in the subfamily Boinae. The ten Sand Boas of southern Europe, Africa and Asia, the Calabar Ground “Python” and North America’s Rubber and Rosy Boas are classified in the subfamily Erycinae. Ungaliophiinae is comprised of the Oaxacan, Isthmian and Panamanian Dwarf Boas.

The term “boa” usually refers to the Common Boa. A short “first name” is applied to others, i.e. Rough-Scaled Boa, Rainbow Boa, Malagasy Tree Boa, Pacific Boa.

Size

Many species average 2-5 feet in length, but the Common Boa Constrictor, can exceed 13 feet in length. The family giant, the Green Anaconda, is also the world’s heaviest snake.

The record-sized Common Boa is said an 18.5 foot specimen killed on Trinidad in 1944. However, a recent investigation into the incident established that an Anaconda, and not a Common Boa, was described in the original account (please see this article for details). The longest individuals I’m aware of were taken in Surinam, and measured 13 feet, 6 inches and 14 feet.

Range

Boas reach their greatest diversity in that portion of the American tropics stretching from central Mexico to Argentina. Rosy Boas range into the southwestern USA; Africa, Asia and the South Pacific are home to numerous others. Two species live in “unexpected” places – the Rubber Boa reaches southern Canada and the Javelin Boa inhabits Greece and the Balkans.

Note: The following information can be applied to many pet trade species. However, details will vary. Please see my species-specific articles and also post a comment below if you would like further information.

Behavior

Rosy and Common Boas vary widely in personality, with many being calm and well-suited to captive life, while arboreal species may remain high-strung and “snappy”.

Boas are not domesticated animals and must never be handled carelessly, as even long-term pets may react to scents or vibrations that people do not perceive. Bite wounds can be severe. Two experienced adults should always be on hand when specimens over 6 feet in length are fed, cleaned or moved.

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Hatchlings may be started-off in 10 gallon aquariums. Larger species usually require custom-built cages, but some, such as Sand, Dwarf and Rosy Boas, can be accommodated in a 30-55 gallon tank. The screen top must be secured with clips.

Appropriate cage furnishings will vary by species. For example, Rubber Boas need to burrow while Cook’s Tree Boas require stout branches on which to perch. A hide box should always be available for terrestrial species; hanging plastic plants will provide security for tree-dwellers. Sand Boas and other fossorial species must be provided with substrate that allows them to burrow out of sight. Being forced to remain in the open is stressful, even for long-term pets.

Substrate

Newspapers and washable terrarium liners may be used as substrates for terrestrial boas. Sand Boas and other burrowers must be provided a deep substrate, the nature of which varies by species; please post questions below.

Cypress and aspen bedding lend a naturalistic touch, and are especially good for Emerald Tree Boas and others requiring humid surroundings. However, wood chips can lodge in the mouth during feeding; terrestrial species should be moved to bare-bottomed enclosures at feeding time.

Light

Boas do not require UVB light, but may benefit from the provision of a UVA bulbs.

Heat

Temperature should be maintained at a range of 79-88 F for most species. Incandescent bulbs may be used to create a basking site of 90-95 F. Ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” may be employed to provide heat after dark and will also help you to observe your pet’s nocturnal activities. Under-tank heaters should be used to create a warm basking surface for Sand and Rubber Boas (these heaters do little to warm air, however).

Provide your snake with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. In small enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

Humidity

Rainforest species generally favor humidity levels of 65-75%, but must be able to dry off as well. The terrarium should be misted twice daily. Airflow is also important, so the screen top should not be covered-over to increase humidity levels.

Sand Boas and other desert dwellers must be kept dry.

Feeding

Most species accept pre-killed mice and rats; hatchlings can handle pink or fuzzy mice. However, the youngsters of smaller species often prefer lizards and frogs, and must be coaxed into accepting rodents. Rubbing a natural prey item over a rodent (“scenting”) will often induce feeding. Emerald Tree Boas and other arboreal species may favor chicks, but will usually accept scented rodents. Gerbils, guinea pigs and other rodents may tempt reluctant feeders, but snakes may then refuse other food items.

Several Brazilian Rainbow Boas under my care would go through “phases” – refusing rats but taking mice, and vice-versa. Green Anacondas, which I do not recommend for private collections, can be notoriously “picky”, with ducks being a favorite. I recall one that would accept only muskrats, while another took wild but not lab-raised Norway rats.

In the wild, boas do not feed during the breeding season or when temperatures are unfavorable; captives may refuse food in the winter, even if kept warm.

Hatchlings should be fed once weekly; adults do fine with a meal each 10-14 days. Vitamin/mineral supplements are not necessary if whole animals are provided.

Water should always be available. Bowls should be filled to a point where they will not overflow when the snake curls up within. Arboreal boas arrange their coils in a way that traps rain and dew, and prefer to drink water sprayed onto their bodies; most adjust to water bowls in time.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Water Scorpion Care and Habits – Aquatic Insects for Arachnid Fans

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 08 Oct 2012 15:01:44 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Over the past several months, I’ve spent much time collecting aquatic insects with my nephew, who is quite the intense little naturalist (please see photos – I’m having as much fun as he!). In addition to our usual haul of backswimmers, predacious diving beetles, dragonfly larvae and the like, this season I was pleased to find a healthy population of Brown Water Scorpions (Ranatra fusca). Combining characteristics of mantids, walking sticks and scorpions, all modified for life underwater, these amazing creatures are simple to keep and fascinating to get to know.

Aquatic Insects as Pets

In years past, I set up aquatic insect exhibits for several zoos and public aquariums, but it seems that interest remains rather low among private invertebrate keepers. This surprises me, as their range of lifestyles rivals that of their land-bound cousins, and never fails to astonish me even after all these years. Please see this article for information on aquatic beetle care, and watch for others in the future.

Natural History

Classification

Water Scorpions are classified in the order Hemiptera and the family Nepidae. Members of the order Hemiptera, known as True Bugs, have sucking, beak-like mouthparts. Examples include cicadas, giant water bugs, backswimmers, leafhoppers and aphids. Approximately 270 Water Scorpion species have been described worldwide, 13-15 of which inhabit North America. No doubt many others are awaiting “discovery”.

Physical Description

The body of the Brown Water Scorpion resembles that of a terrestrial stick insect and is yellowish-tan to dark brown in color. Others, including those in the North American genus Nepa, are flattened in appearance. The front legs are raptorial (designed for grasping) and superficially similar to those of a praying mantis. Unlike a mantis, however, the terminal segments of the Water Scorpion’s front legs fit into a groove when not in use, and swing out like folding knives when needed. These hook-like leg tips can be seen in the photo showing a Water Scorpion poised just below a guppy.

The middle and hind legs are about as long as the body, and paired breathing tubes are situated at the end of the abdomen. This species reaches 1.75 inches in length (to approximately 3 inches including the breathing tube).

Water Scorpions can fly, but do so only rarely.

Amazing Organs

Three pairs of disc-shaped organs on the abdomen, known as false spiracles, enable Water Scorpions to gauge water depth and compensate for changes in water pressure.

Range

From southern Canada through much of the continental USA to northern Mexico.

Habitat

Poorly adapted for swimming, Water Scorpions favor the still waters of ponds, swamps, lake edges and canals, where they remain immobile among plants and sticks. The photo of my nephew “waiting in ambush” shows their typical habitat.

Diet

This voracious carnivore feeds largely upon the body fluids of invertebrates, but will also take small tadpoles, fishes and newts. Water Scorpions are ambush predators, relying upon camouflage when hunting. They lash out with the front legs and subdue prey via salivary fluids injected through the sharp beak. These fluids contain chemicals that tranquilize prey and initiate digestion; food is consumed in liquid form, in the manner of spiders.

Reproduction

Eggs are inserted into living or dead plants, and hatch in 2-4 weeks. The nymphs resemble the adults (incomplete metamorphosis) and mature in 4-6 weeks.

Captive Care

Enclosure

The aquarium should be covered and the water slow-moving. Water Scorpions are poorly-equipped for swimming, and will perish if buffeted by strong currents.

The tank should be well-stocked with plants (preferably live) and sticks that rise to the water’s surface. Water Scorpions breathe by extending the abdominal breathing tubes above the water’s surface, and cannot utilize oxygen dissolved in the water. They will not thrive if unable to station themselves on a plant or stick near the water’s surface.

Filtration and Water Quality

Water Scorpions may be kept in an unfiltered bowl, jar, or aquarium if provided a weekly water change (please see photo of my simple enclosure). Live plants will enhance the aquarium’s appearance and assist in maintaining water quality. If filtration is desired, be sure to avoid strong water currents. Sponge, undergravel, and corner filters are ideal.

Although Water Scorpions inhabit waters that are often subjected to varying pH and ammonia levels, water quality should not be ignored. In this regard, they should be maintained as are tropical fishes (please write in if you need further information). Water used in the aquarium should be treated with chlorine/chloramine removal drops and maintained at pH 6.8-7.2.

Light, Heat and Water Quality

Temperatures of 65-82 F are well-tolerated.

Feeding

Water Scorpions are attracted to prey by movement, and will take small crickets and bits of fish, shrimp and earthworm from tongs. I also offer small guppies, mosquito larvae and blackworms. I’ve not seen them take smaller prey items, but mosquito larvae do disappear (and seem not to be buzzing about the house!).

Compatible Species

In common with many aquatic insects, Water Scorpions will consume smaller individuals of their own species. However, as captive breeding seems not to have been recorded, keeping several in a well-planted aquarium would be worthwhile (reduced temperatures and a shortened light cycle in winter may encourage reproduction).

These slow, deliberate hunters will not get enough food in aquariums housing diving beetles, water boatmen, fishes and other aggressive feeders. In such situations, they must be individually fed via tongs.

Captive Longevity

Adults over-winter and can live for 2 – 2.5 years.

Handling

As you can see from my 4-year-old nephew’s smiling face, Water Scorpions are rather “stiff” and cannot bite if held as illustrated. The long beak seems quite formidable, but several observers report that it cannot pierce human skin (this re Brown Water Scorpions; others not mentioned). I’m wary of aquatic insects, however, as even the smallest predatory species can usually inflict a painful bite. After so many decades of being bitten and stung by creatures large and small, I have no desire to experiment! I advise that you handle via tongs or a net.

What Can I Do?

Insects and other invertebrates occupy every conceivable aquatic habitat, from birdbaths to swamps and even the sea. Running a net or small strainer through just about any bit of available water will yield a treasure trove of interesting creatures, many of which are quite easy to keep and even breed. So get out there and look around, and please feel free to write in with suggested topics, so that I can cover your favorite species.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio