That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information

Surinam toads are well known for their bizarre reproductive strategy (please see article below), unusual appearance, large size and unique habitats.  They make very interesting pets but, as most in the trade are wild-caught, present a few problems when first introduced into the aquarium.  Last time we took a look at establishing the new Surinam toad and helping it to make the adjustment to captive life (Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets: Acclimating New Animals and Special Considerations).  Today I’ll take a look at their dietary needs.

A Live Food Specialist
Surinam toads will take live food (or food moved before them as if alive) only.  Their favorites are earthworms, blackworms and small fishes such as guppies, platys, swordtails, mollies, minnows and shiners.  Use goldfish no more than once each month, and vary the species fed as much as is possible.

Feeding Techniques and Cautions

You can leave fishes in with the frog, as it will likely feed only at night until it has acclimated.  Be sure to adjust the fishes to your aquarium’s water temperature (float bag for 20 minutes) so that the frogs do not contract Ick or other diseases that might be transmitted from stressed fishes (also, fishes are more likely to be consumed if they swim about normally).

When using earthworms, introduce them to the tank at night (foe newly acquired frogs).  Worms usually survive for 8 hours or so underwater, but add only 1 at first and make sure to remove it in the AM if uneaten.

As mentioned in Part I of this article, Surinam toads often swallow gravel while feeding and are best kept in bare-bottomed aquariums.  This is a special concern when using earthworms, which are taken right off the substrate, and blackworms, which burrow into it.  If you use substrate, avoid feeding blackworms and offer earthworms from a plastic feeding tong.

Introducing Canned Shrimp and Snails

Well-habituated Surinam toads will consume prawn and other non-living food items that are dropped so as to land directly in front of their mouths.  Start your frog off with live food, but after awhile try using canned shrimp and snails to provide dietary variety.

Composition of the Diet

I have kept and bred Surinam toads for a number of years using a diet comprised of approximately 75% fish (platys, guppies, mollies, minnows, shiners and occasional goldfish) and earthworms, with the balance of their food intake consisting of blackworms and shrimp.

Further Reading
Please see Breeding A Skin-Brooding Amphibian: the Surinam Toad (Pipa pipa)  to read about captive reproduction of this fascinating animal.

You can learn about the other aquatic species in the family to which this frog belongs (Pipidae) at

http://research.amnh.org/herpetology/amphibia/names.php?taxon=&family=pipidae&subfamily=&genus=&commname=&authority=&year=&geo=0&dist=&comment=.

I frequently promote the use of canned insects as a means of providing a balanced, varied diet to amphibian and reptile pets…in my experience, very little is as important as this one factor. Free living reptiles and amphibians consume dozens, and in some cases hundreds, of prey species, and rarely fare well on a captive diet consisting of 2-3 types of insects.
Canned invertebrates are convenient…some people even rely on them in place of readily available insects such as crickets and mealworms.  However, their true value lies in providing us an opportunity to add difficult-to-obtain food animals to our pets’ diets.  Other canned species that are valuable in this regard include grasshoppers, snails and fresh water shrimp.

Insect traps, such as the Zoo Med Bug Napper will also assist you in adding a variety of species to your insectivorous pets’ diets.

Feeding Tongs – Plastic vs. Metal

When looking at the video, please note how hard the frog strikes the insect…this is common, and a very good reason to use Zoo Med Plastic Feeding Tongs with these ravenous little fellows.  Metal tongs, which can injure delicate mouth tissues, are best reserved for pets which feed gingerly or take large food items.

Green and Bronze Frogs as Pets

Green frogs are wonderful but over-looked terrarium pets.  The normal seasonal changes throughout most of the USA are sufficient to spark breeding, even among animals housed indoors, and their colors are quite attractive and variable.

Populations living south of the Carolinas have been classified as a distinct subspecies, and are popularly known as bronze frogs (Rana c. clamitans).  The individual pictured here is part of a group I established for a new amphibian exhibit at the Maritime Aquarium  in Connecticut.

Green frogs also do well in outdoor ponds (please see photo), but be sure to introduce tadpoles if your pond is unfenced – adults that are relocated often attempt to return to their home territories.

Video #2 – Small Frog vs. Large Finger

The second video shows a yearling green frog attempting to swallow my finger.  This animal was received as a tadpole (as was the adult, now 3 years old), mixed in with a shipment of feeder minnows.  Although amphibians are thought to operate largely upon instinct, learning, as you can see, plays a role as well… my hand should send this frog diving for cover.  Interestingly, those captive-raised frogs that I have placed into outdoor ponds quickly regain their “common sense” and become difficult to approach.

Further Reading

Please see my article Providing a Balanced Diet to Reptile and Amphibian Pets  for further information.

Lengthening days and warmer temperatures are beginning to register on amphibian pets nationwide, stirring long-dormant breeding urges.  Last week I was please to find that a 2 year old female axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum) which I paired with an older male had produced eggs for the first time.  A week or so earlier a reader informed me of another spontaneous axolotl breeding.

Mexican axolotls are an ideal choice for the prospective amphibian breeder, and are becoming ever more popular each year.  With spring upon us, I thought I might pass along some photos of my pair and their eggs, along with a few tips.

The Aquarium and Filter

The eggs pictured here are set up in a PLA House Plastic Cage equipped with a Small World Filter.  PLA House Cages are available in 6 sizes, and their light weight allows for easy water changes.  I have found them indispensible in my collection, and always have a number on hand.

The Small World Filter is ideal for use with amphibian larvae, as the water return is directed upwards and so does hamper weak swimmers.  Sponge filters work equally well.  I use an air pump that provides just enough aeration to keep the eggs slightly in motion.

Providing Cover
Axolotl eggs are typically attached to plants or other structures, as seen in the accompanying photo.  Once they begin to hatch, I’ll add additional plants, nearly filling the tank so as to separate the larvae a bit and reduce cannibalism.  Plastic plants set in bases are very useful, as they provide shelter throughout the water column. The Cypress Mat  provides excellent cover on the bottom of the aquarium, where the larvae will be spending most of their time.

Feeding Axolotl Larvae
Finely chopped live blackworms form the basis of my diet for newly hatched larvae…a worm feeder lessens the likelihood of the worms clumping together (larvae often choke while trying to swallow large balls of worms).  A brine shrimp hatchery is also useful, and larvae can sometimes be induced to accept freeze dried daphnia and other invertebrates as well.

Further Reading
Pleased see my article Breeding Mexican Axolotls  for additional breeding recommendations.

Click: Surinam Toads (Pipa pipa) as Pets: Acclimating New Animals and Special Considerations – Part 1, to read the first part of this article.

Arranging Shelters and Hiding Spots
Give the frog as much cover as possible – plastic plants with weighted bases and others secured around rock ornaments or otherwise held at the bottom of the aquarium are best. The frogs will push beneath the plants and hide. They seem to prefer this to caves, and in fact rarely enter enclosed shelters in the manner of African clawed frogs.

However, Surinam toads will shelter under driftwood if the wood is arranged to provide an overhanging ledge as opposed to a discrete cave. Piling a few pieces atop one another usually does the trick, and adds a nice touch to the aquarium’s décor as well.

Light
When you first acquire your frog, do not use an aquarium light, and never turn the room light on when the room is very dark…the shock of the sudden glare would be very stressful. A group of frogs I received recently for a public exhibit were so shy that I needed to cover the aquarium with dark material for 2 weeks…if you do likewise, be sure to remove the covers slowly so as not to startle the frog.

Once your pet has acclimated to captivity you can use a light…just be sure to utilize real or artificial floating plants  and the shelters described above to cut down on light levels. Surinam toads are nocturnal – even by day the turbid waters in which they dwell filter out a good deal of sunlight.

Filtration and Water Quality
You’ll need an effective filter, but take care to adjust the water flow so that it does not move the frog about. Although they are powerful swimmers, Surinam toads do not take well to strong currents.

Partial water changes (20-50% every 1-4 weeks, depending upon filtration) are vital to maintaining good water quality. Use a test kit to check your ammonia levels frequently. In common with other aquatic amphibians, Surinam toads excrete wastes in a highly toxic state. High levels of ammonia will cause them to cease feeding, and eventually to expire. Bear in mind that the waste products are largely comprised of liquids and will not be visible. Be sure to de-chlorinate all water used in the aquarium.

Fungus, Injuries and Parasites
Check the skin for grey or white areas, either of which might indicate fungus, and also for injuries…these frogs do not ship well, and often arrive in poor condition. Please write in for suggested treatments if you observe any unusual marks, scratches or discolored skin.

I sometimes treat wild caught Surinam toads for parasites following a fecal test or cloacal swab, but am hesitant to suggest this as a necessary precaution – amphibian medicine is not, to say the least, an “exact science”. However, it’s something to consider if your frog refuses to feed or experiences other difficulties…please write in if you would like to explore this option further.

Further Reading
Please see Breeding a Skin-Brooding Amphibian: the Surinam Toad (Pipa pipa)  to read about my first experience in breeding this fascinating animal.

You can watch a captive Surinam toad feeding below:

(Note the frog’s backward “shoveling” motions with the rear legs. This is how they push their way below plants and bottom debris).

Feeding Surinam toads can be a bit tricky as well, but is a very interesting endeavor (please see video above). I’ll provide some suggestions that have worked for me (or, rather, my frogs!) next time.

You’ll need to search long and hard to find a frog more bizarre than South America’s Surinam toad. Large and flat, with a pointed head and star-shaped sensory organs tipping the fingers, this tongue-less aquatic beast broods tadpoles below the skin of its back….need I say more?

“Handle With Care”
Surinam toads make wonderful aquarium subjects, but a bit of special care and planning are necessary if one is to succeed with them. Although captive breeding is possible (I wrote about this recently, please see below), it is not common; hence most of the animals available in the trade are wild-caught adults.

Surinam toads seem to be gaining in popularity lately…I’ve had several questions concerning newly acquired animals posed recently, and so thought this a good time to go into the topic a bit further.

Stress and Wild-Caught Frogs
Surinam toads collected as adults have lived in my collection for over 12 years, but most wild caught individuals presented some problems when first obtained. With their permanent, upward-directed stares and relative immobility, these frogs seem so “expressionless” that it’s hard to imagine their being stressed…but internally a great deal is going on.

They are quite sensitive to change – a wild caught frog will have been through a series of traumas by the time it reaches your tank, and will usually not feed until it feels secure and out of danger (i.e. able to hide). Stress is usually very difficult to detect in amphibians, but do not be misled – it is as serious a problem for frogs as for a high strung bird (or us!).

Avoiding Injuries
Until the animal adjusts to its new surroundings, you should secure a towel or other material between the screen top and the water’s surface, as the frog will likely jump at night and may injure its snout against the screening. Be sure to secure the top with screen clips; these will hold the towel in place and prevent an escape.

Temperature
The water temperature should be maintained at 78-79F. Be sure to adjust your frog to any temperature changes slowly…gradually mix new water in with old, if necessary. Dramatic temperature changes will stress the immune system and can easily lead to some of the same health problems (i.e. Ick outbreaks) as affect tropical fish in similar circumstances.

Aquarium Size
A large, deep aquarium is best. Sometimes these frogs do fine in shallow water, but they are more comfortable in deep tanks – during field research I’ve observed them being collected from 3-4 feet of water. An adult will require an aquarium of at least 20 gallons capacity, with a 30 gallon tank being preferable (a 30 gallon can house a pair as well).

Substrate
Surinam toads have a very vigorous feeding response, and quite frequently swallow gravel along with their prey. It is therefore safest to house them in a bare-bottomed aquarium. Despite living over mud, sand and gravel in the wild, captive Surinam toads are very prone to impactions. I’ve observed several on autopsy that were packed full of sand, and another that swallowed a stone which seemed barely able to fit in its mouth.

Check back on Friday for the conclusion of this article.