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Tortoise Habitats – Glass Aquariums are Not Suitable Tortoise Homes – Part 1

Geochelone denticulataTortoises are among the most popular of reptile pets, and many folks now realize the importance of a proper diet, UVA and UVB light, and heat.  Yet many well-meaning tortoise enthusiasts continue to provide their pets with grossly inappropriate accommodations – a situation that is fueled by those pet store employees who recommend glass aquariums to first-time owners.

Plan Ahead

First of all, it should be understood that nearly all tortoises, even the smaller species, will grow too large, and are too active, for any but a room-sized indoor enclosure.  So please plan ahead; the suggestions mentioned below are mainly suitable for hatchlings and youngsters.  Only tiny species, such as the Padloper (Homopus signatus) or the Egyptian Tortoise (Testudo kleimanni, please see photo) can conceivably be kept in (huge) glass aquariums…and even then, ventilation is a concern.

Glass Aquarium Concerns

In addition to a lack of space, there are numerous other problems associated with glass aquariums.  One of the most serious is the fungal and other respiratory problems that often arise due to insufficient ventilation.

Also, tanks usually remain at a constant temperature.  However, in order to remain healthy, tortoises need a thermal gradient – that is, they must be able to move from hot basking sites to cooler areas, and most benefit from a dip in temperature at night.  Other concerns include difficulties in providing a stimulating environment and in maintaining cleanliness.

Outdoor Enclosures

 Testudo kleinmanni Outdoor maintenance is ideal – but only if you live in a region with a climate similar to that of your tortoise’s natural habitat (or during seasons that are similar in climate)…temperature, humidity, light cycles and soil drainage are critical.  Converting an indoor room is another option, as is a mix of indoor-outdoor housing (I’ve kept huge Spurred Tortoises outdoors during hot, dry spells in NYC, indoor otherwise – not ideal, but satisfactory).

In Part 2 of this article we’ll take a look at some commercially available small animal cages that can handily accommodate small tortoises.  I’ll also introduce an easily-constructed enclosure that can provide ideal indoor accommodations for a great many species. 

 

Further Reading

Outdoor pen ideas from the Gulf Coast Turtle and Tortoise Society.

African Spurred Tortoises: Housing and other Challenges

Geochelone denticulata image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Geoff Gallice
Testudo kleinmanni image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Abrahami

28 comments

  1. avatar

    I would love to keep torts outdoors. I live in Arizona, and have an outdoor area that receives sun and shade. Do you know of any pet tortoises that would do well year round? We only have freezes a few nights a year.

    One option we have is adopting native desert torts (Gopherus agassizii) – but they grow really big and can probably remodel our backyard pretty quickly! I’d like something much smaller.

    • avatar

      Hello Amy, Frank Indiviglio here.

      Thanks for your interest in our blog.

      Arizona certainly is ideal for a number of species. All will dig and climb, however, and so will need a secure pen in most yards.

      Spectacled Padlopers are tiny (i.e. palm sized) and would fare well there, as would the slightly larger Pancake Tortoise. However, both are rather delicate and would not be ideal if you have not kept tortoises before. Star Tortoises get as large as Desert Tortoises, but are not as vigorous in their digging; Chaco Tortoises would also work, but are not commonly sold and best kept by an experienced person.

      Russian Tortoises are small and relatively hardy; they are adapted to arid habitats and could be accommodated in a properly designed outdoor pen in Az; same as regards Greek Tortoises, which are a bit bigger but manageable.

      You might enjoy the following articles on Russian and Pancake Tortoises.

      Please let me know when you make a decision, and we can discuss getting started.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  2. avatar

    I like both the Russian and Pancake torts. Are there any concerns about mixing species?

    • avatar

      Hello Amy, Frank Indiviglio here.

      Interesting idea, but unfortunately it would not work out so well. They come from 2 very different habitats…pancake tortoises need a drier environment and are very prone to fungal infections ( oyster shell works well as a substrate) and warmer temperatures, a different diet, secure hidespots and very high UVB exposure. Russian tortoises are more active/robust, and would likely stress the pancake tortoises.

      Also, there is always the potential for severe cross-infection when we mix related animals from different parts of the world. Parasites and other micro-organisms that cause little trouble in 1 species may infect the other with severe consequences; similar to tourists becoming ill when they drink tap water in a foreign country.

      Best to choose one, or establish separate habitats.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  3. avatar

    I think I’m going with pancake tortoises, they are a better fit for our desert backyard! It’s very dry and warm here, UVB is not a problem and we have Mercury vapor bulbs if we need to bring them inside during cold weather. What is their diet like?

    • avatar

      Hello Amy, Frank Indiviglio here.

      Thanks for the feedback; excellent choice for your area and in general – more people need to study and breed Pancake tortoises, as they are in trouble in the wild. They are not always available, and tend to be expensive, but are well-worth the effort.

      Please check my article on Pancake Tortoise Natural History and Care, and write back with any questions you may have. There is a link to an article on conservation efforts there as well.

      Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  4. avatar

    I’m not sure if there’s much difference but all I know is that I’m extremely impress with a giant Tortoise’s lifespan.

    • avatar

      Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

      Thanks for your interest in our blog.

      Yes, there are a few well documented records of 100+ year old tortoises.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  5. avatar

    I found my Russian Turtle digging constantly at the sides of the box sorta thing we keep em in is there any reason they dig at it so much? It is a 75g size.

    • avatar

      Hello Ryan,

      Thanks for your interest. Gravid females dig in an attempt to find a suitable nest site; males try to wander when hormones signal that it is breeding season; low temperatures or overly dry conditions can also be involved. As temperatures rise, tortoises may become restless and dig/pace in order to find more space to move about, forage. A 75 gallon aq is on the small side, despite appearing large in relation to the tortoise…they need a great deal of space, or perhaps out-of-cage time in a safe room, etc. Please also see cautions concerning ventilation, temperature problems in aquariums. Please write in with more details re temperature, diet and so on and perhaps I can provide more specific advice.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  6. avatar

    Also if I was to use a glass aquarium that was larger would it be better to just leave the tops off like most of the wooden box’s people use or table like structures they use

    • avatar

      Hello Ryan

      An open top is fine…some tortoises continually attempt to climb out if they see an open top; a screen top sometimes stops this, and still provides ventilation.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  7. avatar

    Well Looking at what we have now having gotten her recently being 7 months old and still bitterly cold outside(Illinois) right now I have her wandering my floor and seems content Right now we have half the tank cool and hot with Romaine lettuce and a tiny bit of a apple. But the aquarium does not have a top to it to let it vent in and out better on both sides of it to simulate the wooden box idea as best as possible and she has a thicker sand if that means much? About a foot or so deep to dig threw, possibly going to add a mulch if thats any better.

    • avatar

      Hello Ryan,

      Good to hear… as with many animals, extra space lessens pacing, etc.

      In the wild, they dig shallow depressions in which to spend the night, so deeper substrate is a good idea. Other hiding spots as well – Zoo Med’s Tortoise Home features a hide box, hay or plastic plants can also be used as cover. Re diet, I’m assuming romaine/apple is not main part of diet?…but please write in if you need nutrition info.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  8. avatar

    Tho letting her out for a while seems to have calmed her down she found a spot and went to sleep.

    • avatar

      Hello Ryan ,

      Thanks for the feedback. Space seems to be the main factor; providing a secure spot in which to rest, in tank, may help. Watch temperatures, drafts when the tortoise is at large in room.

      Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  9. avatar

    Right now the main diet is a few different types of greens, this is just since she is new to the whole area in general a little more pleasing diet to relaxe her in any tips on a good diet would be appreciated for further ideas

    • avatar

      Hello Ryan,

      A varied, high-fiber diet is crucial to their long term health; daily UVB exposure is necessary for proper calcium metabolism. Please check out this article and let me know if you have any questions.

      Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

  10. avatar

    I am looking to adopt a tortoise. There are so many choices I do not know where to start. Every thing I read seems to contradict the last article I just read. I live in Arizona.

    I am new to tortoises and what some less than a sulfate to start with. I was thinking of a greek ibera or golden greek. How would this fair in the arizona climate? How are they for a bigger? I also liked the pancake, but I see above you do not think good for beginner.
    Thank you for your time and advice.

  11. avatar

    I have an opportunity to adopt a pancake tortoise, adult full grown male. What are your thoughts?

    • avatar

      Hi Glenn,

      Az would suit it well, climate-wise. If the animal is a long-term captive and has been on an appropriate diet, it might make a fine pet. They tend to be less active than others,moving about in ear;y morning and evening, but this varies among individuals. If kept outdoors, enclosure must be absolutely predator proof…the shell is quite flexible, offers no protection against rats or larger creatures. They also climb surprisingly well. Please see this article for info on their care and let me know if you need further information. Best, Frank

  12. avatar

    I have just a question that bugs me for much time, and no one seems to answer it satisfactorily. Why are tortoises kept as mammals? They are given space wildly disproportionate to their size, that even an active lizard or small mammal does not have. They are given much more environmental enrichment in the form of natural substrate, rocks, slopes, thickets etc, much more than for more intelligent reptiles, intelligent birds, or even most mamals. Outdoor housing is considered a given for their successful maintenance, yet the same idea would meet much more skepticism and consideration beforehand if it concerned a bearded dragon, an uromastix or any other diurnal sunloving lizard. Conceptually in most reptile keepers’ minds, squamates seem to fall in the category of small, exotic, strange and alien animals that live in carefully controled environments, like invertebrates, amphibians and aquarium fish, but tortoises seem more to belong in the category of free animals dependent on real outdoor nature. They are treated much more like ungulates than reptiles.
    Also, why a glass tank is incapable of holding a gradient for tortoises if it does it just fine for lizards? Simply a smaller lamp might be needed for smaller tanks.

    • avatar

      Hi,

      Tortoises draw a more anthropomorphic crowd for sure…even “non-herpers” seem to like them. But it’s hard to draw generalizations, esp. based mainly on internet accounts etc…I’ve been to hundreds of zoos, private collections and related institutions on several continents during my lifetime – there’s an enormous range of variables as to care given to all taxa – i.e. Japanese zoos provide amazing exhibits for insects – huge walk-throughs, entire rooms set up like caves for firefly larvae – yet some keep primates and elephants in enclosures that would draw violent protests here in the USA – and so on. It’s sometimes easier to provide lizards a gradient bec you can use a raised basking site, bringing the animal closer to the bulb and allowing for cooler areas elsewhere – ventilation also seems more of an issue than with other herps; space also…I try to get tortoise owners to think in terms of homemade cages…tanks pof a[ppropriate size very expensive, non-existent for adults of many species, best, Frank

  13. avatar

    Frank, I have 2 spurred thigh torts one is ( I’m guessing 20 years old and weighs about 40 lbs. ) He was pyramiding when I got him and didn’t know any better. He still has them but the rest of his shell has smoothed out. I live in Buffalo NY and today its about 5 degrees out. Obviously I keep him indoors. It is still kinda cold in the basement which is the only place I have room for him. I heat with UVB lamp only. Though I don’t feel its enough. Same goes with my 2nd tort. It is about 4 years old and about 6 inches long. Any ideas on building a better enclosure and heating options? Thanks.

    • avatar

      Hello,

      UVB bulbs do not provide significant heat; this species does not experience much of a cool period in natural habitat and so is very susceptible to cold temps. Best to take care of this ASAP, as med. treatment is difficult and expensive.

      Please see this article for info and ideas. There are links there for ceramic heaters, heat bulbs and nighttime heat bulbs (be sure to use heat at night as well. In many situations, a small oil-filled radiatior is the best option…be sure to speak with an electrician before running this or any heater/bulb continuously. Please check article and let me know if you need more info, best, Frank

  14. avatar

    Hi there! I have a Russian Tortoise named Leo, I want to tak him outside, but I am so paranoid because I read that he can catch parasites from outside. I live in Michigan, by the way. What are you thoughts and how often should I let him play outside?

    • avatar

      Hello Emily,

      Outdoor time is excellent for them, both for exercise and UVB absorption (unfiltered sunlight is the best source of UVB); it will not pick up parasites from merely being outdoors for awhile – most parasites are specific, in terms of the hosts they need. Pinworms are sometimes contracted by tortoises kept outdoors continually, but these are generally not a serious concern and easily eliminated by medication. Native grasses and plants of many types are also a good food source, if not sprayed with pesticides, enjoy, Frank

About Frank Indiviglio

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Being born with a deep interest in animals might seem unfortunate for a native Bronxite , but my family encouraged my interest and the menagerie that sprung from it. Jobs with pet stores and importers had me caring for a fantastic assortment of reptiles and amphibians. After a detour as a lawyer, I was hired as a Bronx Zoo animal keeper and was soon caring for gharials, goliath frogs, king cobras and everything in-between. Research has taken me in pursuit of anacondas, Orinoco crocodiles and other animals in locales ranging from Venezuela’s llanos to Tortuguero’s beaches. Now, after 20+ years with the Bronx Zoo, I am a consultant for several zoos and museums. I have spent time in Japan, and often exchange ideas with zoologists there. I have written books on salamanders, geckos and other “herps”, discussed reptile-keeping on television and presented papers at conferences. A Master’s Degree in biology has led to teaching opportunities. My work puts me in contact with thousands of hobbyists keeping an array of pets. Without fail, I have learned much from them and hope, dear readers, that you will be generous in sharing your thoughts on this blog and web site. For a complete biography of my experience click here.
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