That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information
Please see Parts I and 2 of this article for information on housing and diet. Today I’ll conclude with some thoughts on toads in community terrariums and the wild.
Tank mates
American toads are quite peaceful towards one another, but larger animals will nudge others from food, so keep an eye on them at feeding time. The conditions favored by toads are also suited to a number of other interesting creatures, and their diets and temperaments suit them ideally to community terrariums.
Compatible animals include spotted, tiger, marbled, slimy and other terrestrial salamanders (see photo), wood frogs (see photo), gray, barking, green and other native treefrogs and land snails. Assuming that space permits the establishment of a warm basking area (without over-heating the toads), you can also house a number of small reptiles with American toads. I have had kept them with 5-lined skinks, Italian wall lizards, green anoles, DeKay’s (brown) snakes, ring-necked snakes and smooth green snakes. There are other possible toad-companions as well – please write in if you would like more suggestions.
Free-Living Pets
American toads will utilize favored burrows for years on end, with wild individuals documented as remaining within the same territory for over 20 years. If you have a population living nearby, encourage the toads to stay nearby by providing a shallow, easily-exited pool and some retreats in the form of half-buried, inverted clay flower pots. Resident toads will learn to gather at an outdoor light in hopes of an insect meal, and will otherwise delight you with their comings and goings.
We know little about the movements of adult amphibians, but it does seem that American toads are usually found within a limited home range, so one can become quite familiar with the individuals resident in a garden or similar area. An interesting article on the home ranges of American toads is posted at:
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3845/is_/ai_n17183721
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
I am so glad to find your blog. We have been keeping toads for almost 2 years now and finding reliable info. is so difficult. We lost 2 toadlets one after 8 months and the other after raising it from a tad about 4 months. I think to lack of improper nutrition. Since then I have been supplementing them once a week w/Rep-cal Calcium w/D and Rep-cal Multivit mixed 1:1 ratio.We have 3 toads The older of the 3 showed signs this winter of weak hind legs and sort of uncorrdinated, had she hard time catching crickets so I upped her supplements to twice a week. She seems to be better out hunting and moving around better. But I don’t want to give to much. Is what I am doing sound ok? and if so how long should I do this? In the summer I try to catch, sow bugs, small wild cricket and earth worms for them but was still giving supplements is that ok? I have learned so much form your articals you have anserwed so many of my questions, but I have more. In your artical you suggest only feeding them a couple times a week in winter.
The older toad we have only comes out that often to feed but the two younger ones (probable 2 years old and they are in the same habitat) will eat every day all winter is that ok or am I overfeeding and how much is safe to feed.
We also have two grey treefrogs that we raised from tads last summer. One dissappeared for 3-4 weeks last fall we he reappeared I seperated him because he was very lathargic. After a few days he seemed to be ok and is now thriving. I would like to put him back in with the other one as the habitat is bigger and more frog friendly, but it will be harder to monitor his food intake do you think it would be ok or sould I put a divider in the tank. Right now it is a 10 gal. aquarium w/ a screen lid coconut bark subsrate artificial plants and water dish. But I do have a 20 gal. I could divide. Their diet right now consists of fruit flies regularly and now the can eat very small crickets and I give supplements twice a week. Also I am not sure of how much food is enough or to much for them.
We started out two years ago w/ a toadlet (toady) and he captured our hearts. He is the one that died last year unfortunatly I feel from our lack of good info. So in their best interest I feel I can not know enough. Thank you for this great source of information. I am sure I will have other questions for you.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words.
Raising frogs from tadpoles is quite an accomplishment – even in zoos American toads and treefrogs are problematical in that regard. Sounds like you are trying hard and making great progress.
The supplement mix you are using is a good one, you can up it to 3x week for the ailing toad, 1-2x weekly if you use wild caught insects in the summer. We don’t really have much evidence of over-supplementation problems, – I just try to be cautious, but I vary my usage with the situation.
You can feed according to their appetites in the winter – they may change in time, becoming more likely to feed as the years pass. Those that do not feed well seem able to regulate their metabolisms and do not lose weight.
You can put the treefrogs together if they feed while you are watching, so that you can monitor intake; when they do lose weight, it shows first via protruding hip bones.
Growing frogs and toads can be fed small meals 5-7 times per week in the summer, or every-other day or so if larger meals are given. Fruit flies are good when the frogs are tiny, but try to add something more substantial as they grow. Grey tree frogs favor crawling/flying insects, and often refuse earthworms. The Zoo Med Bug Napper is a good flying insect trap; you can also buy cultures of flightless house flies on line. Try also spreading a sheet below a bush or tree and shaking the foliage – this will yield a great mix of insects for both species. Waxworms are good on occasion as well, as are mealworm beetles (these are easy to culture at home).
Watch that the frogs do not swallow coconut husk…sheet moss is a bit safer for both them and the American toads.
You might be interested in my article on Providing a Balanced Diet to Reptiles and Amphibians and Keeping Gray Treefrogs as well.
It’s nice to hear from someone who is so concerned and conscientious. Please be in touch if I can be of any further help.
Enjoy your frogs, Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello Mr. Indiviglio,
I am 11 years old and I found my toad in a pond last August. I pick her up every once and awhile and put her on my hand/arm and watch TV (she loves TV). But someone told me I am not supposed to pick her up, is that true? Also, she still Pees on me almost everytime I pick her up. Does that mean she is still afraid of me?
Hello Riain, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Your question is an interesting one that often comes up among toad keepers. Toads make good pets, but, unfortunately, they should not be handled except when necessary. Amphibian skin has a mucus coating (this is difficult to see in toads, but very obvious in frogs) which protects them from bacteria and parasites. This coating rubs off easily when they are picked up (when you do need to move your toad, always wet your hands first). The toad will replace the mucus, but until it does its skin will be open to attack by harmful bacteria.
Also, toads release poisonous fluids when they are disturbed…this can cause a painful irritation if it gets into your eyes, mouth or an open cut. Like all animals, toads can also carry bacteria that can be harmful to people – you should always wash thoroughly after handling any animal or cleaning its cage.
The liquid that the toad releases is water that is stored in preparation for dry weather. It does this in order to surprise a predator (in this case, you!)…sometimes the burst of water shocks the enemy into releasing the toad. The fact that this happens does show that the toad is frightened.
However, if not forced into frightening situations, toads become very friendly in captivity and can live for many years. Your toad will soon learn to associate you with food, and will hop out for a meal when you approach. By moving slowly and allowing the toad to come to you, you can also teach it to take food from your hand or a plastic feeding tongs. This is really the best way to interact with a toad. It will learn to recognize that you provide food, but it cannot respond to handling in the way a dog or cat can.
Please check out my article on Amphibian Learning Abilities for an interesting story on toads and how they learn to avoid dangerous foods.
Please write back if you would like any more information,
Take care and enjoy your toad, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello frank,
Thankyou, you helped me alot.I am going to miss holding her often but if it is for her safety I’ll do it. You have probably heard this alot but you know a ton of things about toads. I hope I will know as much as you when I grow up.
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thank you very much for your kind words.
I think you will know a great deal about toads as time goes on. You are off to a very good start – I began just as you are doing. I wrote letters (this was long before email!) to the Bronx Zoo’s Reptile Curator about my pets when I was your age.
If you read as much as possible, do as well as you can in school, ask questions, visit zoos and observe your pets at home and animals outdoors, you will be able to learn a great many things, and perhaps discover some new information that is not yet known. I hope you continue to read my articles, and to write in whenever you have a question.
An excellent book about frogs and toads in the wild and captivity is Frogs, Toads and Treefrogs, by R.D. Bartlett. There is also a wonderful small book titled “Reptiles and Amphibians, A Guide to Familiar American Species”, by Zim and Smith. It is part of the Golden Nature Guide Series. This book is no longer sold in stores but sometimes appears on Amazon.com. It has great drawings of many reptiles and amphibians found in the USA, and is the best introduction to the subject that I know of.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
hey frank
i habe another question for you regarding wood frogs. if i catch a wood frog and decide to house it with one of my toads, do i have to get a larger or different dish? will a natural sand and wood chip substrate suffice? or should i house them in a different terrarium altogether. from my field experience wood frogs are fairly terrestrial and i often find them in the exact locations i find toads.
Hello Max,
Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.
Good question. Wood frogs and American, Fowler’s and other toads get along well in terrariums. As you have observed, they do occupy the same habitats in the wild, and feed on similarly sized invertebrates. I have set up a number of successful “forest edge” exhibits in zoos housing the two species together, along with gray treefrogs and spotted and slimy salamanders.
Wood frogs need only a shallow bowl for soaking. However, they are less resilient to desiccation than are toads, so be sure to provide damp moss under which they can shelter, or a moss-lined cave. Toads will use the water bowl during the day if need be, but wood frogs often move only after dark. A sand-wood chip substrate is fine.
Another point to keep in mind is that toads are much more aggressive in feeding than are wood frogs…most toads will come out to feed at any time, even follow you along the glass once habituated, but wood frogs generally remain quite shy. If you feed only by day, the frogs may not get a chance to feed, as the toads will consume everything. The frogs compete well after dark, so feed at that time if need be. They do not need as much food as do toads, having slower metabolisms.
Some wood frogs are high strung in captivity, so move slowly when cleaning lest they crash about, and do not handle them unless necessary.
Please keep me posted,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
thank you!
well then i have another question for you about wood frogs regarding hibernation. i know that in the winter when a wood frog hibernates their whole body shut down and freezes and their heart stops. how do i hibernate these frogs in captivity?
Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.
As usual, you have raised another interesting subject…thanks for the opportunity to discuss it.
Wood frogs (and a few others, such as gray treefrogs) have the most highly-developed systems known for dealing with cold temperatures. They are the world’s northernmost amphibian species, even ranging into the Arctic Circle in Canada. They stay below a mere 2-4 inch3es of leaf litter or within a dead log during the winter, and so face the worst the season has to offer.
Wood frogs produce a cryo-protectant – a type of glycerol – which acts as a natural anti-freeze, encircling each cell and preventing the cell from freezing. The heart continues to beat, but just barely. The process is being intensely studied for possible application to the storage of human organs earmarked for transplantation…as of now, corneas and other organs must be transplanted within a day or so of becoming available.
Six years ago I was presented with 2 gray treefrogs that had been uncovered while hibernating below 2 inches of leaf litter. Externally, they appeared frozen solid – hard as ice cubes. I re-created their hibernation situation outdoors in an area safe from foraging shrews, skunks and other predators. They emerged, healthy and active, with the spring…as I expected, but still quite a shock even after decades of observing much that is hard to believe.
Wood frogs are easier to keep during the winter than are the skinks that you mentioned last time. Even at temperatures of 50 F, and possibly lower, they remain active and will feed. This is actually their preferred temperature range…in midsummer they find moist retreats below ground or along streams, where they can remain cool. In general, temperate zone frogs do not exhibit the “automatic shutdown” during the winter in captivity, as is seen in most reptiles. At normal room temperatures, they remain active and feed well.
The only drawback to this is that they do need exposure to a cold period in order to induce breeding. Wood frogs have not been bred indoors to my knowledge…if you want to try, please let me know. It is more difficult than with tropical frogs, but might be possible.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
thanks frank!
this is great news!
i have just one problem
all of yesterday i searched my woods high and low for wood frogs, i looked in the swamps, in the usual breeding pools which have no fish. i came across all other frogs except a woody. all other times i have seen this species in my forests it has been just sitting there in a root crevice of some sort. how can i find these frogs more easily? should i search at night?
Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your comment, nice to hear from you again.
Well, you’ve just perfectly described how to find wood frogs…one stumbles across them unexpectedly! They seem to spend a good deal of time well below ground, utilizing the tunnels of shrews, deer mice and other creatures in a most “toad-like” manner. Even in areas with high populations, I’ve only been able to count on finding them during the week or 2 that they are in the breeding ponds…usually mid-late march here in Southern NY.
Tadpoles will still be in the ponds now, and metamorphs stay under the leaf litter nearby for a few days before dispersing. In very hot weather wood frogs seem, at least in some places, to move towards streams…this based only on my casual observations.
Please let me know if you hit on a good method…enjoy the search!
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
i have a creek on my property and all the pools seem to be inhabited by green and mink frogs. i am going to look in leaf litter today and try and locate a woody!
Hello Max, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to have mink frogs around, they are quite rare here. Good luck…please let me know what you find.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
i failed at my attempts to find a wood frog. i again saw many leopard frogs, mink frogs, and green frogs. i saw many turtles as well, im sure next time i go looking for them, they will be hiding too! i will keep looking maybe i will just walk in the woods hoping to stumble upon one as i often have before.
Hello Dave, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback…they’ll show up when you least expect them, (and are without a container!)
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
Thanks so much for the info on the toads and the tree frogs.
I did not know that the coconut substrate that I have been using could cause a problem. It says not harmful if ingested thats why we went with it. Do they become impacted from it? The one I use for the frogs is bigger pieces more like bark. Anyway the moss you recommended is quite a bit more expensive. Would it be ok if I used the coconut as a base (especially for the toads to burrow) and put the moss on top? I am going to put some leaf litter in both toad and frog tanks as well. You’re right there is a ton of life in it. Any other suggestions would be welcomed.
Also the older toad that has the problem she is doing somewhat better but seems to be uncorrdinated and she closes her right eye alot, any thoughts. I am giving her wax worms in a shallow dish so she has an eaiser time with getting her food. Now as soon as the dish goes in she comes right over to it. She also does her best to get a few crickets.
I put the smaller grey tree frog in the larger tank with the other and it is doing great no problems.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again…thanks so much for the kind words. I’m glad that you found the information useful.
We may be speaking about different coconut husk-based products. Bark-like pieces are generally hard to swallow and should be fine. It’s difficult to set down any general rules concerning the safety of the finer substrates, as there are so many variables. For example, a poorly-hydrated animal may have problems with a substrate that is easily passed by a well-hydrated animal of the same size and species.
Sphagnum moss is more expensive than similar products, but it can be rinsed and re-used several times. A layer over the chips is a fine idea, and will help retain a moist environment below.
I’m glad that you have been looking into leaf litter invertebrates as a food source…many discoveries await you. For related articles on collecting invertebrates, please see Collecting Live Food, Leaf Litter Invertebrates and Providing a Balanced Diet.
Various toad species with uncoordinated movements and difficulty in catching food are commonly reported to me. In nearly all cases, animals raised from the tadpole stage, or collected as yearlings, are involved. I have one such animal which, now 2 years of age, must be continually force fed.
A nutritional imbalance is likely at play, although autopsies of toads scheduled for release in a NYC parks re-stocking program (which I had raised from eggs) could not confirm this. However, in my experience, other toads kept under the same dietary and light regime as the afflicted individuals have fared well….I believe the affected animals may have been out-competed for food and hence suffered a deficiency. Raising animals in isolation might provide some clues.
I’ve never had a report of the condition in any of the thousands of wild-caught adults I have handled, even long term captives kept on poor diets, which leads me to believe that the sensitive early months are involved. Tadpole nutrition also has an impact…I have some very compelling evidence concerning similar problems in African clawed frogs provided inappropriate diets as tadpoles.
I’m happy to hear that your gray treefrogs are getting along.
We have allot to learn, and your input is most interesting and valuable; please keep me posted as time permits. Good luck.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hello again Mr. Indiviglio,
We have something going on (I think) with our smallest grey treefrog (Dudley). I don’t think he has been eating and he has a small bump (not on the skin but like on the inside) on the side of his abdoman just above his haunch. Also his eye shields have been up most of the time. Usually he is very active at night like the other one (Emerald) but for the last few days he just finds a place to rest. He does soak everyday sometimes twice. I don’t know if it has anything to do with it but our weather did change to very warm even at night about the same time and I switched their habitat to the new moss. I am not sure what to do if anything. I did put him in a smaller habitat tonight because the othr frog kept jumping on him. Also I thought this way I could see if he is eating.
Could he just be stressed from all the changes?
They have come to far from those tiny tadpoles we found in a puddle last July I would just feel terrible if something happens that I might possibly prevent.
Will be looking forward to hearing from you, hope you can shed some light on this. Thank-you.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here. Nice to hear from you again.
I’ve actually seen gray treefrogs both conditions that you describe, and one was usually associated with the other. There is some evidence that too much UVB, as when a frog consistently perches right under a UVB bulb, causes corneal damage, but I have observed eye problems in exhibits not provide with UVB as well.
Unfortunately, we know little about the nature of the various growths/tumors that afflict n native frogs. Approximately 20% of a large brood reared at the Staten Island Zoo exhibited such, along with corneal problems in some. The veterinarian there removed several growths surgically but a definitive diagnosis had proven difficult. Unfortunately, survival following surgery is often quite low for small frogs. The eye problems were addressed by removing UVB light sources and treating with a variety of eye drops…again without all that much success.
Most frogs produce enormous numbers of eggs…anecdotal evidence suggests that a certain percentage of the tadpoles will exhibit severe problems and growth deformities. Tadpoles are a major food source for a variety of aquatic creatures – the large number of malformed individuals may be a normal phenomenon. Also, nutritional imbalances during the tadpole stage often do not show up until some time after transformation…I have experienced this with a wide range of species in zoo and private collections…again, we have a lot to learn.
Heat can be a source of stress – leave any terrarium light off during warm weather; if at all possible transfer the animal to a cool basement.
I suggest you continue to keep the animal alone; you may need to force feed it eventually, as nervous system problems seem to follow the symptoms you describe. Please write in if you need some advice concerning that. I may be able to recommend an experienced veterinarian in your area, but again even in zoo situations treatment is not always promising. I suggest you keep notes as to the animal’s progress – any information that we can gather and share will be of use in the future. I’ll be happy to store your notes with my own.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
Hi Frank
Thanks for this wealth of info on toads. I plan on getting some as pets. I have multiple questions for you.
I actually went to an Asian market one day and saw live frogs for sale. They were all sitting on top of each other in a bucket with some water in it (cruel). They looked very much like toads (two lumps on their back) but were advertised as frogs. He was prepared to sell one to me live but I wasn’t sure if these were fair game as pets. Do you know if Asian markets regularly sell toads or am I mistaking toads with bullfrogs?
I’m pretty sure I want a large American toad as I like being able to handle them at times and not have to worry about the moisture requirements a frog would bring. In my research I read that some of the larger frog species eat small mice. Is this true for toads? Because that would be pretty cool.
Lastly you mention the tank mates I can include and I really like the idea of adding some brown snakes and land snails to the tank. However, I’m worried about the possibility of the land snails being eaten by the toads and possibly choking the toad(s) with its shell. Is this a possibility or would that combination of tank mates live together fine?
Lastly is their a one stop shop I can get all of these creatures?
Thanks,
Gord
Hello Gord, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog and kind comments.
The frogs sold live in food markets in the US are almost invariably American bullfrogs raised on farms in the Southeast. When the bullfrogs are collected for market (they are raised in outdoor ponds), other species sometimes are caught accidentally, which may be what you observed.
As you noticed, the frogs are usually kept under terrible conditions. I would not suggest buying any from food markets; I have been involved in a great many confiscations of frogs from food markets in NYC (shipped out of season, etc.) – after the ordeal of collecting, shipping and display, nearly all are afflicted with Aeromonas and other bacterial infections and most die, even with veterinary attention.
American toads become quite tame in captivity but, as with most amphibians, they are best viewed as animals to observe rather than handle. Handling removes the mucus covering on the skin and leaves them open to bacterial infection. It is also not something that an amphibian can relate to in any way. They will, however, respond to you by approaching at feeding time and following your movements through the terrarium glass.
The marine toad and other large frog species will, on very rare occasions, take rodents in the wild. In all cases their diet consists primarily of invertebrates, and none have evolved to consume mammals on a regular basis. Please disregard the nonsense you may see on the inter-net regarding frogs swallowing mice and small rats. It is a very bad idea to feed mice to frogs…such invariably leads to liver, corneal and kidney problems and often to injuries inflicted by the rodents’ teeth and intestinal impactions caused by ingesting fur. The practice is carried out more for the benefit (if you can call it such) of the frog owner rather than the frog.
Land snails can safely be kept with American toads; the snail’s movements do not usually stimulate a feeding response, and individuals large enough to cause a potential impaction are too well-anchored by their sticky mucus to be ingested.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Frank,
Thanks for your quick response. I now know not to buy any bullfrogs from the market. I understand what your saying about handling these guys but if I did so on occasion would that not be advised? Folks that have pet snakes and lizards handle them all the time, is there a species more durable than the American toad?
I was also wondering how I can purchase all of the animals I mentioned in one place. Would you recommend purchasing them online, or visiting a pet shop? I came across this online store: http://www.exotic-pets.co.uk/toads-for-sale.html. I like the look of the black spined toad but with an adult size of 90 mm, I was looking for a little larger toad. I like the size of the American bullfrog (8 inches), but do you recommend them as pets? If not, I’m willing to have 2 or 3, 3.5 inch toads. Would the black spined toad be ok to live with an American toad?
So in conclusion, I’m on the fence about what I want. I guess ideally I’d like a healthy American Bullfrog if you’d recommend it as a pet. On the other hand, I’d like a larger toad if possible, but if 3.5 inches is the limit, I’d purchase 2 or 3 and have them live together–if this is the better option than the bullfrog. Ideally it would be a durable species I could pick up on occasion. I won’t overdo it :).
Either way I go I also want a community tank with land snails and 2 dekay snakes or garter snakes. You didn’t mention garter snakes in your list of tank mates. Would they be ok? Based on these tank mates would the bullfrog be able to coexist with them? Lastly, how big of a tank would you recommend for all of these guys. I’m guessing the bullfrog would need more space. Sorry to be so long winded, I’m just really into amphibians and reptiles. I had several anoles when I was young, but they all had short lives due to my ignorance as a child. I’d like these guys to live for many years this time around :)…not sure if the snails will last…
Thanks a lot,
Gord
Hello Gord, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for the feedback.
Due to the protection offered by scales, reptiles are much more resilient than are amphibians when it comes to handling. For classroom and other demonstration purposes, if an amphibian is needed, I rely upon White’s treefrogs. They are calm in demeanor and will usually climb up upon one’s hand if pressure is applied to the chest. This is preferable to actually grabbing a frog. Of course one must then watch that the frog does not leap off the hand and injure itself.
But, as regards handling, it is important to keep the nature of the animal in mind. Reptiles and amphibians are in no way comparable to small mammals or birds, and do not derive any benefit from handling in terms of social contact, etc. It may appear that calmer snakes and lizards “enjoy” being held, but it really is more a matter of tolerance.
I would suggest a pet store, assuming you are near one with a good reputation, as a source for your animals. Speak with the staff at length and ask specific questions; also ask to see the animals feed if possible, before deciding to purchase a pet.
Black-spined toads should not be kept with American toads. It is generally a bad idea to mix closely related animals that are native to different parts of the world. The parasites and other micro-organisms carried by one, which may not cause it any trouble, can be readily transferable and deadly to a relative.
American bullfrogs vary greatly in individual personality, but are usually very high strung in captivity, especially if, as is usually the case, they are wild caught. A pair would require a well-filtered aquarium of 55-75 gallons in size, and they will consume any tank-mates smaller than themselves. Raising bullfrog tadpoles is a better option if you are intent on keeping that species.
Marine toads are relatively hardy and grow quite large, but again should not be fed rodents. An adult requires an aquarium of at least 55 gallons in size.
Garter snakes feed upon toads (they are immune to the skin toxins of most). Community terrariums are somewhat difficult to maintain without a bit of experience. I suggest starting off with a single species, i.e. American toads.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Thanks a lot Frank,
As far as handling them, I’ll only do it sparingly and always use gloves.
I’ve also done some reading on American bullfrogs and they appear to be more suited for the wild than as pets. I also read that African bullfrogs are more tame and don’t require as much care. I like their size and may purchase one.
Marine toads look to be just about what I’m looking for as a starter pet. As for the community terrarium, I think I want to give it a try. I find it interesting that dekay snakes don’t eat American toads but garter snakes do. As for tank mates, do you know of any snakes that can live with Marine toads? Would land snails be ok?
Will the tank setup up for a Marine toad be similar to the american toad, or will it need more water?
Thanks for your help,
Gord
Hello Gord, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your feedback.
Be sure that your hands or the latex (powder free) gloves are wet; this will lessen he amount of mucus that may be removed.
There are not many animals that prey upon toads…some species of garter snakes can, and Eastern hognose snakes eat toads exclusively.
Marine toads are not suitable for community terrariums, as they try to consume most tank mates. They can be housed in a similar manner as American toads, but need a great deal of room – a 55-75 gallon aquarium will do. They and other large frogs excrete a great deal of ammonia with their waste products. If the terrarium is not kept scrupulously clean, the toads will absorb the ammonia through their skin and expire. Washable terrarium liners are useful in large terrariums that are difficult to break down and clean.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hey Frank,
I’m having difficulty finding a pet shop that sells Marine toads due to the fact that they’re considered an invasive species. Do you have any ideas of where to get one? I live in Maryland.
Thanks,
Gord
Hello Mr. Indiviglio,
I am sorry to say that our little grey tree frog died last wednesday.
After I received you message back he seemed to perk up a bit, even managed to consume a couple of small crickets. But by Monday he stopped soaking and eating he became very dark in color also he kept his front legs out in front of him as if he was uncomfortable.
Tuesday whenever I checked on him his position did not change until tuesday eve. He was perched up against the glass and looked very bloted. He also had another protrusion on the other side of his abdoman. I took pictures (I know that sounds terrible)wondered if there was anyway to get them to you. Wednesday morning he had passed.
We are very sad and will miss him.
Now I am concerned about the other one, wondering if the same thing will happen to him. This one had a better start and has always been bigger and better at getting its food.
We have never has lights on them and their tank is not in a window but near one and sometimes the sun will shine in. I noticed in the winter they would sit on the side of their habitate that the sun came in on. Do you think that could have contributed and perhaps I should move it?
At a friends they have a pond and many grey tree frogs around their house. We quite often find them in the sun on their deck, I was suprised because it was so hot, but thought they probably don’t do this all the time and so it is not harmful.
Also we had switched to moss on top as I had told you, how often should this be changed?
And just a little update on the toad that has had some problems. She seems to be doing better giving her the wax worms but is it ok to only give her those. We still put crickets in but it takes her a long time to get them. Her eye seemed to be better but yesterday she was back to closing it and keeping her shield up she also made a really weird noise after she ate a worm. Do you have any ideas on what this could be and if there is anything I could do for her? She did shed about 10 or 12 days ago (which is always fasinating to see)could this have any thing to do with it?
I know I have many questions and I am sure I will have more as I go along. I really appreciate your information and interest it has been a great help to me.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Sorry to hear about your frog, but you are providing it with good care and asking all the right questions….we still have a lot to learn, even as regards common species.
You can email photos to me at findiviglio@thatpetplace.com, but unfortunately I will not likely be able provide you with a diagnosis. Typically, even zoo necropsy reports on amphibian lumps are not very informative. Unless an actual encysted parasite is found, the question of cancer, bacteria, virus etc. is usually left open.
I’ve also noticed gray treefrogs moving in and out of warm areas. Glass filters out UVB rays, so the only concern re a tank near a window would be over-heating.
A steady diet of waxworms is not advisable – they have high chitin and fat levels and are a bit hard to digest; I would suggest using them once every 7-10 days. If the toad will eat after being handled, you can move him into a small plastic terrarium or similar contained for feeding, thereby keeping the prey in close proximity.
Although it sounds a bit gruesome, you can slow the crickets down a bit by pinching (not pulling) the “knees” of their rear legs. This causes the cricket to shed the leg, as a defensive reaction. It does not seem to bother the cricket – they feed immediately after shedding legs if given a chance – and is akin to a lizard shedding its tail. Putting them into the refrigerator for 5 minutes will also slow them down.
Sowbugs are fairly easy to catch and are very nutritious, probably a staple for wild toads. These are often easy to collect, or can be purchased online. Butterworms are also good (again, available on line) and “wax-worm like” in their movements, but many of those in a typical order will be too large for your toad.
I can’t say that I’ve ever heard a toad make a noise while feeding…sorry. Please keep me posted on that.
Please do not hesitate to write in at any time…I learn a great deal from the experiences of others, and am happy to help out in some small way if possible.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
i am wondering what toads can live together peacefully??? what about spadefoot and fowlers? thank you for your help!
Hello Connie, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Several of our native toad species overlap in range and habitat (in fact, American and Fowler’s toads sometimes hybridize in the wild), and can be kept together in captivity. There are just a few points to keep in mind:
1. It is best not to mix related species from different parts of the world, as relatively benign micro-organisms that are carried by one may be transferable and dangerous to another (same reason that tourists get sick drinking water that does not bother local people).
2. Large species such as marine, Colorado River and Blomberg’s toads will consume small individuals of their own and other species.
3. Many toads become extremely bold in captivity, waiting for meals and feeding at any time of the day or night. These species will out-compete more retiring animals if housed together. Your example, Fowler’s and spadefoot toads, illustrates this nicely. Both species occur together in the wild and, providing the spadefoots can burrow, they can be kept in roughly the same manner. However, spadefoot toads never, in my experience, leave their burrows to feed during the day, no matter how well-habituated. Fowler’s toads, on the other hand, are the “golden retrievers” of the toad world, and will consume all food before the spadefoots have a chance to feed at all. Keeping them together requires quite a bit of management – i.e. removing the Fowler’s toads to a separate enclosure on nights when the spadefoots are fed.
Please let me know if you are considering any other species combinations, and I’ll be happy to offer some advice.
Good luck, enjoy your toads and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
hi um well i was kind of wondering if mabey you know if 1 american toad and 4 bullfrogs could live in the same enclosure without issues. but i need an answer fast becuse i already have both kinf=ds of frogs and toads and i need to know where i will be storing them! well thank you for your time. bye! ^_^
Hello Joleen, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Unfortunately, American toads and bullfrogs cannot be housed together. Bullfrogs are largely aquatic, and need deep water along with dry resting places near the water. Toads are completely terrestrial, shelter in burrows in the soil, and swim poorly. Also, bullfrogs will attempt to swallow anything smaller than themselves, including other bullfrogs.
Please keep in mind that caring for 4 bullfrogs is quite a large undertaking. Even when small, they produce a great deal of waste material, which increases the water’s ammonia level. Ammonia is toxic to frogs, and will quickly kill them. Their tank needs a powerful filter and frequent water changes. They also get quite large…a pair of adult bullfrogs would need a 55 gallon aquarium to themselves.
Good luck and please let me know if you need any further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
an american gray treefrog that i had in captivity for 5 years died last week. tonight we found unexpectedly a wood frog. is it ok to keep them in captivity as well? i used to occasionally handle my gray frog is it ok to handle this as well on occasion?
Hello Christie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Wood frogs can be kept in terrariums but they are nearly always very high strung…much more so than gray tree frogs. They tend to hide and if disturbed will jump wildly and may injure themselves on the glass (this is especially true for wild-caught adults). They are definitely not a species to handle. Actually, as a general rule amphibians should be not be handled unless absolutely necessary. It is stressful for most and in the process the mucus coating of their skin tends to rub off (always wet your hands before handling frogs), leaving them open to bacterial infection and dehydration (gray tree frogs are somewhat resilient in this regard).
If you decide to keep the wood frog, you can maintain it at the same temperatures as suited the treefrog, but it will be somewhat more sensitive to warm weather. The terrarium set up can be similar, but with more attention given to ground cover. It will require a pool in which to soak as well and the substrate should be kept moist at all times (they are more prone to desiccation than gray treefrogs). It will eat the same types/sizes of insects as did your treefrog.
A varied diet is very important when keeping native frogs…please write back if you need further information.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi frank your blog is wonderful thanks so much for all the information! I was reading sue’s blog about her gray tree frog that died it sounds like eye infections become a common problem. About a year ago mine developed a thick white covering over 1 of her eyes. From then until she passed I actually hand fed crickets to her as she wasn’t successful in nabbing the crickets on her own. In the last week of her life she wouldn’t eat so i knew that it was a bad sign. I read above about the heat lamp bulbs and was surprised that could have been a contributing factor. Your talking about the bulbs that the pet store sells correct? So if I decide to keep the wood frog do I not need to use the heat lamp during the winter as it sounds like they don’t need all that much heat.
Hello Christie, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks so much for the kind words, much appreciated.
The bulbs are actually designed to emit UVB – necessary for many reptiles but not for most amphibians. Gray tree frogs seem especially prone to problems as they often perch right under the lights. Wood frogs would be less likely to be subjected to much light, but they do not need it…if you have live plants in the terrarium, a low-output UVB bulb, such as the Repti-Sun 2.0, would be safe to use.
Nearly all of our native frogs do best at cool temperatures…even tropical species find cool micro-habitats. In NY, wood frogs breed in mid-March, when there is often ice on the ponds they use. They feed well and remain active at 50 F. The immune systems of most native amphibians function much better at low temperatures, while bacteria and harmful micro-organisms generally prefer warmer temps. I keep native amphibians in a basement whenever possible – I have a 26 year old red salamander that has rarely experienced temperatures over 62 F. Beware of heat waves…in the wild, wood frogs migrate to cool streams of burrow deep below the leaf litter at such times.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
I am very concerned about the toad that was having some problems. She does not seem to be able to eat. She tries but is not succesful. Last night I checked on her and she seemed stressed, closing her right eye and gulping, then a little later she had her mouth open almost like she was panting.Today is the same mouth open almost looks swolen and breathing harder. I really don’t know what to do for her and she seems so uncomfortable. I am hoping you will have a suggestion.
I am concerned also about the other two toads as well. Are they going to be getting this same thing because we are not able to provide what they need? My son and I wonder if we should let them go while they are still healthy and the weather would permit them to readapt. We really enjoy them but if it would be better for them perhaps that is the right thing to do.
I will be looking for you reply.
Thank-you.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again but sorry about the toad. Since the option is available, I would suggest releasing the distressed animal. I’ve done some casual follow-ups on released native amphibians and fishes in an enclosed outdoor pond at the Bronx Zoo. It’s amazing how often, and how quickly, many turn around, in terms of health problems. Veterinary attention is not often effective, even if available…I think releasing the animal would provide it with the best chance of recovery.
In addition to what we’ve discussed earlier re vitamins/minerals/diet, another concern in captivity is parasites. Wild toads will carry always carry a certain parasite load, which may do them no harm when all is well. In captivity, however, stress can weaken the immune system. Also, for those parasites that require only 1 host (toads), the chances of re-infection are very high due to the close confines of captivity, and parasite populations will also be unusually high (the eggs of most are shed in the toad’ s feces. In the wild, the toad would be unlikely to be easily re-infected). Parasites that require 2 hosts (snail-toad is a common scenario) will die out in captivity.
It’s very difficult to predict what might happen as regards your other toads, but your thinking is correct as regards the timing of any releases. Nutritional deficiencies are far more common in young wild-caught toads than in adults or large juveniles. Older animals might take more time to adjust to captivity, but are usually a safer option.
Please let me know also if you’d like some suggestions re captive born frogs or toads.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
Thank you for responding so quickly. It will be difficult to release Hopper as we have had her for two years. We think she was probably a year old we got her, and she did very well until this past winter. My son will be sad but will want to do what is best for her. He is the one that got us started on these most fasinating creatures and it has been a great experience for all of us. Do you think it would be wise to let the other two go as well? We got them last year one in May the other in June probably as yearlings. They adapted to captivity quiet well as they will eat bugs and worms from a spoon. They are in a different habitat but I am so afraid these same things will happen to them and it won’t be a proper time of year to realease them. I truley will miss them but want to do what is right.
As far as our other grey tree frog (Emerald) she seems to be doing very well.
Again look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.
Although it will be difficult, the sick toad will fare better if released. Perhaps explain to your son that we know very little about curing toad diseases, but that the animal will have a good chance of recovery in the wild. I could try to refer you to an experienced veterinarian in your area, but I don’t believe would be the best course to take.
As for the others, they won’t necessarily exhibit the same problems…you’ve had them for awhile and are giving them a good diet; I’ve had groups where most did fine even though a few did not survive. Continue providing as much dietary variety as possible, especially in the warmer months when you can collect insects; sow bugs (potato bugs) are very good – being crustaceans they are quite high in Calcium. You can even buy colonies on line if they are hard to find, and for winter use.
As regards parasites, be sure to keep the cage as clean as possible; they often defecate in their water bowl so change this frequently.
Wild caught toads can do quite well, with longevities over 20 years recorded. No real way to be sure, but everyone with an interest, myself included, started out as did your son (I also had the benefit of an interested mother and grandfather – your son is very fortunate).
If you decide to keep them, please stay in touch and I’ll do my best to help you along.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
Thank you again for responding so quickly. I spoke to my son this morning and he is sad because this is his pet but he understands that this is what is best for her. We have a big perinal flower bed that I think would be a good place somewhat sheltered with lots of food for her. And we can check on her. Will also leave shallow pans of water.
Will keep you posted.
Thanks again.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. I think you’ve made the right decision
Good luck and please be in touch if you need any information concerning your other treefrog and other toads.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
we have a large colony of toads ( bufo americanus ) under our concrete porch. They are now more than a nuisance, they are becoming destructive.
What can i do to chase them away or to exterminate them?
Does anyone have any good suggestions ??
Please advise.
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
I’m curious to learn what type of damage you believe the toads to be causing, as I’m a career herpetologist and have not heard them described as such.
Native amphibians are legally protected in all states, so extermination would not be an option. Also, field studies have shown that a single toad consumes upwards of 20,000 insects each summer, many of which are harmful to people and/or crops.
I may be able to refer you to a local herpetology club or wildlife rehabilitator who will collect and re-locate the animals free of charge. Please let me know your location and I’ll try to provide a contact.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
Just wanted to update you on the release of toads. We let her go Thursday before last. Put a big pile of her substrate and her water dish (as it had been dry and the ground was hard)in shady part of our garden. She seemed a bit confused as first but burrowed in the substrate. We checked her frequently. We had to go out of town for a couple of days so my neighbor checked in on her and she was doing fine. On Saturday it rained all day and she stayed close to where we put her. Later that afternoon my neighbor called and said she looked like she was shedding as she had some material still on her. Then that evening she had completed her shed and seemed fine. That was the last time she was seen. We came home and I check many times a day but have not seen her. So we hope she is better and has found a great place to live. Hopefully we will see her before summer is over. I know it will ease my sons mind to know she is ok. there are many toadlets out and about and they are enjoying soaking in her water dish, so we make sure there is water in them every day. We also put out a couple more as it has been very hot.
I do have a concern about our other grey treefrog. She is eating and soaking but when she rests she seems huntched over then she makes a clicking noise (which we have heard her do after eating before) and it looks like she is smacking her lips, then she stretches her mouth open and paws over it with a front foot. She seems uncomfortable. She also has a slight grimess on the left side of her mouth but it has always been there. We have witnessed her shedding before. Could she have to shed and is having a hard time with it? Or could she have something else going on? It has been really hot so I moved her to the basement which keeps her habitate about 75. I did notice some gnats in there would they be harmful? I will be cleaning her hab. as it is time to do so. I just feel like I am doing something wrong, but I don’t know what to do differently.
There are just so many questions. Thank you for trying to answer them for me.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the update.
You did the right thing in releasing the toad. It’s actually unusual that people were able to see it for a few days thereafter…usually they are hared to relocate; I wouldn’t count on seeing it again, but that does not mean it is not doing well, they are difficult to find even in large zoo exhibits.
Unfortunately there is not much more to be said re the gray treefrog, as we know so little about their needs. Good idea to keep it cool; they usually do not have problems shedding, unless it is very dry. Perhaps check the size of the insects it is eating, several small items are better than 1 large; stay with insects the size of a half grown cricket or smaller if possible.
Native amphibians can be very hardy, but when problems arise they are difficult to treat. We know more about some of the pet trade “staples”; White’s treefrogs are very robust, captive bred and can take temperature extremes more easily than native species. Just a thought, for the future…
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
My children found a toad in our backyard and when we saw he only had one eye, we agreed to keep him inside, safe from predators. We’ve only had him for a week, but he doesn’t seem healthy. I know he is a male Gulf Coast Toad, but there is very little information on this species. His abdomen seems a bit bloated- not severely, but it is noticeable. Where his eye is missing, it weeps. He doesn’t hop- he walks…slowly, We are keeping him in a 10gal aquarium (temporarily) with a clay pot to hide in, a plant to hide under (dug from the yard- just a weed), terrarium moss, and a sandwich bowl of RO water. Since I know nothing about keeping toads, we’re learning as we go. I’m only feeding him small, live crickets so far, but will be adding vitamins and fresh bugs (when they start coming out) and possibly using gut load on the crickets. I read about giving toads an antibiotic like Maracyn or Maracyn 2- as you’d give fish. Is this a good idea? We are making a 40gal vivarium for him, but since it’s not done yet, we’re stuck with the 10 gal. Because he doesn’t see well, I’m careful about bug placement and so far, he’s eating well. He doesn’t seem fearful…more depressed. What can we do for this poor creature? Any help would be appreciated… my kids adore Sir Toad already.
Hello Amanda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog; I commend you for your efforts on the toad’s behalf, you’re doing well.
As for general care, you can do as described in the article for American toads – they are closely related, even able to hybridize.
The weeping may be just irritation, as would be the case in a relatively new injury. If so, you can apply Turtle Eye Drops until healing is complete. Walking suggests a new injury as well – once adjusted, toads usually do well with 1 eye, even learning to adjust their “aim” quite accurately when catching insects. If the weeping is from an infection, a vet visit would be best, but human Triple Anti-Biotic Cream (over-counter type), placed on the wound once daily, is sometimes useful.
Certain fish medications do indeed work for amphibians, but best to know what sort of bacteria or parasite one is dealing with before trying, and also dosage needs to be modified. If you notice redness or other signs of infection or fungus, let me know and I’ll go over the use of Methylene Blue with you.
One thought, and I apologize if this is evident, but when using RO water be sure to reconstitute/add back trace elements before using – otherwise the water is more or less distilled, and will leach useful salts/minerals from the toad’s body.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio
Thanks for your speedy reply. Sir Toad his burrowed beneath some moss and some wooden craft sticks my sons wanted to use as a “frog bridge.” (There’s no water under it.) What kind of trace elements should I use? I’ve only added the Stress Coat to his RO water.
Thanks!
Hello Amanda,
My pleasure…. I’m assuming that you keep fish and make your own RO? If so, use the water as you would for fish (usually a packet of salts etc is provided). If you are buying the water, check that it is ready for use with fish. Stress coat is a good idea as well. Usually, tap water is fine unless very hard – just be sure to use an Instant DeChlorinating Product.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Mr. Indiviglio,
Haven’t written in a while as things have been going very well. We did release one more toad after he showed signs of trouble. We still have one toad and one gray tree frog. I was just reading your comment on RO water which I did not know would be bad. That is what we have been using. I feel silly that I did not ask about it. Would well water be ok? It does not have the red iron in it but it does have lime and calcium. Or you mention adding back trace elements, how is this done?
Look forward to hearing from you.
Sue
Hello Sue, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again. The trace elements are those that come with RO units, and which are added to the water before it is used for tropical fishes. It’s a real concern with aquatic amphibs, more of a precaution w/toads so probably no harm done. Hard water is not great for most amphibians, except those specifically adapted to it. Bottled spring water is a useful option if your tap water is hard – Deer Park & Poland Spring are safe, noit sure if any others are drawn from hard water sources.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
We have super hard water, so we have a water softener. For this reason, we have a RO system for drinking water. Probably over kill, but…We do have tropical fish- mainly discus. I just cleaned Sir Toad’s tank out, washed and rinsed well, and gave him some more RO water with stress coat and the trace minerals you add to the water for discus. He burrowed into the bedding stuff and looks happy. I’m going to the pet store tonight for some vitamins and such for him. Hopefully, he will perk up and slim down a bit. He looks absolutely pitiful with his puffy belly and one eye. I have yet to hear him make a peep. Thanks for the information.
Hello Amanda,
Thanks for the feedback; sounds like you’re doing everything right; Best to use a powdered vitamin mineral supplement once weekly to start off, so as not to shock/overload his system. Can go to 2-3 x week, then back to once weekly if you introduce other types of insects, esp. wild-caught.
Toads are generally fairly rotund – bloating if different, often related to a bacterial infection. However, he would not likely be feeding if this were the case.
Good luck with him and the discus also, wonderful fish…Please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
Hi Mr. Indiviglio. Haven’t written in a while because things have been going real well. However when checking our grey tree frog this evening he was in his water soaking and he is huge very bloated, never have seen him like this before. Is there anything I can do? I am very concerned. He seemed fine yesterday. Sue
Hi Sue,
When bloating comes on suddenly like that a bacterial infection is often involved (gas produced by bacterial); more common in hot temps. Moving to a cooler location may help, (refrigeration has worked with some species) but you’ll need to see an experienced vet to accurately diagnose. Un-mated females may also retain eggs; bloating more evident as eggs begin to decompose. Sorry I cannot give you more useful advice. Please let me know if you need help in locating a vet.
Best, Frank
Hi Mr. Indiviglio, I am sad to say that we lost our beloved little friend “Emerald” today. We are going to miss him alot. Sue
Hi Sue,
Sorry to hear your news; you provided very good care..even in zoos, amphibian diesease/treatment is not well understood.
Best regards, Frank
Hi!
Thanks for the info, its definatly useful!
I do have a question….
About a month ago I found a red eft in our basement. The poor thing was extreamy thin and dehydrated. I honesty thought he was dead! But I quickly ran him upstairs and placed him in a very shallow bowl of water. I then continued to make him a natural habitat in a large clear box with moss, rocks and wood from around the house outside. I placed him in there and gave him two small mealworms. (I breed mealies for my 3 leopard geckos) he ate that night.
He is now doing very well and has chunked out and is feisty. 🙂
Today doing yard work i found 2 of the tinest American toads I’ve ever seen. They are about 3/4 inch in length. They are adorable. I had toads in the past that I kept for a while and released. But these two are so little a good size spider could eat them! We defiantly have very large spiders around here. (Upstate NY).
I was wondering if I could put these two babies in with my red eft? My eft is about 4 inches with his tail. Do you think this is a good idea? Or the toads being so small, will the eft try to eat them?
I would like to keep the toads until they are bigger so they have a better chance of survival then release them. Is this also a good or bad idea?
Thanks for any knowledge you can pass my way! 🙂
Hi Felicia,
Thanks for the kind words.
Very few amphibians will eat toads, due to the distasteful toxins; I’ve not kept them with efts, but have seen this done in 1-2 zoos. Small toads require a lot of food….aphids, “meadow plankton” (tiny insects caught by sweeping through a field with a net) etc. Although efts and others will take mealworms, they are not the best of food items. Best to avoid, except perpas for newly molted (white) grubs…difficult to digest, and not very nutritious even if well fed. Earthworms are ideal as a staple for toads and efts (please see this article); also sowbugs, moths, harvestmen, smooth caterpillars.
As for raising and releasing…difficult to predict what will happen; they do not have many enemies, but those that can take a newly transformed individual can probably take one a year ior so older as well…shrews, hognosed snakes, some garter snake species; large wolf spiders will take small amphibs…I’m not sure if the toads’ toxins are effective against them..cannot recall reading anything either way (interesting point, thanks, I’ll think about it),
Pl let me know if you need further info. Enjoy, Frank
Thanks!!! There are plenty of fields around my house i can get plenty of insect from. We have a constant supply of worms in our orchard free for the taking. Lol.
Do you know about how much the little toads will eat? Or do you reccomend just releasing them back to the wild in a safe area?
We do have very large wolf spiders around our house. I have seen them as big as my hand all spread out and boy are they agressive! I’ve literary danced with a few while they chased me! No, not kidding! Glad I don’t see the huge ones very often. Lol
Thanks again!! 🙂
Hi Felicia,
My pleasure.
Small toads are primed to eat continually, but they are able to adjust metabolisms to food availability. Feeding every 2-3 days is fine. Really no way to get them to a safe size, etc…they have plenty of natural protection, as well as innumerable enemies. Nice of you to consider that, but releasing them would be fine…they better diet they’ll find on their own, and faster growth, ability to find a territory, hibernation site, etc. will counterbalance the value of protection within your care.
Enjoy, Frank
Dear Mr. Indiviglio,
I have two small american common toads in a large terrarium. I feed them daily (when I can) with crickets and lots of garden pests, but I keep the terrarium outside in a sheltered sceened-in porch. I just caught them this year, and I’m worried about winter – I already have one of those black reptile heat pads stuck to the bottom, and my toads like to dig their holes in the provided sand and dirt over the heat pad, but… I don’t know if that will be enough for the fall and winter. Please could you help me out?
Thanks SO much,
Genna
Hi jenna,
It’s difficult to overwinter toads in a porch type area; much simpler to bring them indoors if possible, as typical room temperatures re usually fine for the winter. If you need to keep them on the proch, please send more info as to typical area temperatures and I’ll make some suggestions…you’ll likely need a bulb or ceramic heater, as heat pads do not warm the air very well. Best, Frank
Hi Mr Indiviglio, I sent a message to you yesterday about some turtles. I was having some issues with my computer so wasn’t sure you received it. Just to recap, back around June 10th we had 2 turtles lay eggs in our old drive way which is dirt and gravel. We started looking for them at 60 thru 90 days. No Turtles. Yesterday at 120 days I decided to look in the nests to see why they did not emerge. I found nothing in the snapping turtle nest. I found 6 babies in the painted turtles nest still buried 2 to 3 inches below the surface. They were completed encased in dirt like they just couldn’t get out. After rinsing them and putting them in a small amount of water they started to come around. We put them in an aquarium on a slight angle (so they could get out of the water if need be). Usually we see the baby turtles in the lake by mid august. I am concerned about relesing them as the water temperature is already quite cool. Thought if we could winter them over inside and turn them loose in the spring maybe they would have a better chance. If so looking for information to care for them. Anxiously waiting to hear from you, Sue
Hi Sue,
Painted turtles sometimes overwinter in the nest and do not emerge until spring..this is likely what was going on when you found them (in some populations, they emerge in late summer some years, spring others…not fully understood). here’s an article on basic care…hatchlings can be accommodated in plastic sweater boxes fairly simply, but do need a UVB source. Some do not feed…controlled by an internal clock of sorts – and then other arrangements must be made for semi-hibernation…please look over the article and we can discuss details next. best, Frank
Hello Frank, my son and I have not written you for a few years…..not since his toad died. But he has had 4 albino dwarf frogs for nearly 9 years now…..they never seemed to do much other than swim around and eat. Now suddenly, one of them has doubled in size in a matter of days. It still moves around….a little sluggishly, but not that much different. Is it possible that the frog is pregnant at nine years of age?
Thanks,
Riain’s Dad Larry
Hello Larry,
That’s quite a record for dwarf clawed frogs…I’m assuming it is one of these, and not the larger species (Xenopus)? They can develop eggs after years w/0 breeding; please see linked article. If not grasped in amplexus by a male, some will drop eggs anyway, but egg-binding can also result. Sudden bloating can also be due to a bacterial infection (gas) or other internal health problem..unfortunately difficult to diagnose/treat in this species. please keep me posted, best, Frank
Hello Frank,
Being ignorant of such matters, I think after reading your answer, I would guess that egg binding might be what is happening…which isn’t good. Riain was wondering if there was a way to send you a picture. We appreciate that a diagnosis is probably near impossible with a photo, but maybe it would be obvious as well? Riain and my wife have said it has an appearance of something foreign swallowed. The frog by the way, seems to be much livelier today. Thanks for your interest in this Frank….I forgot how much I enjoyed reading your articles despite my having only a passing interest in reptiles. You do have a way of making the subject interesting for people like me who are not normally interested in such topics.
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the kind words…unfort no way to diagnose via photo, various conditions appear the same. Activity is a good sign, as infections usually cause rapid declines. Please keep me posted, Frank
Hello Frank,
Understood. A picture wouldn’t be effective. The frog appears no worse off over the past few days, but we’ll let you know how things are in a few days. Thanks.
Thanks…I hope all goes well and pl keep me [posted, Frank
Hello Frank, I’ve read and enjoyed this blog for quite some time now, but now I am in need of my own advice from you. I have an American Toad named Thor. He is about 4 yrs old and is about the size of my closed fist. He’s always been a very spry happy little guy, very active and does what a normal toad should do, minus try to jump into my hands when I’m cleaning around his tank and taking care of his plant. He always comes up to the glass when I walk by to let me know that he’s hungry and he’s always appeared to be extremely friendly, until now… as of recent he hasn’t been burrowing himself like he always has, he just kind of lays there with his eyes shut as if he’s in pain. He’s eating normally, and he occasionally sits in his water bowl like usual, but he doesn’t come up to the tank anymore to let me know that he’s hungry, he doesn’t try to jump into my hands or onto my arm, and even worse, his skin looks aweful and is a milky whitish color and sometimes bleeds. I’m afraid that he may die, and this worries me very much because he is so young, and I love him immensely. please help me, I don’t know what to do. please help me figure out what’s wrong with my baby 🙁
I also have pictures of what his skin looks like if need be.
Hello Cerra,
Thanks for the kind words. That is the best toad name I’ve yet heard!
Unfortunately, there’s no way to diagnose via symptoms alone. The white fluid is generally skin toxins, which are released under stress (external and internal); bleeding can indicate a skin infection, septicemia , but not necessarily, You’ll often see red patches on the belly and underside of rear legs when septicemia (“red leg”) is involved. A vet visit would be your best option…please let me know if you need help inlocating an experienced herp vet, and pl keep me posted, frank
Hi, just wondering if it would be possible to keep an american toad, a grey treefrog and one small snake (dekay, ring necked, rough green)? Thanks.
Hello Breton,
In a suitably large terrarium all would get along…makes for a nice exhibit, but takes careful planning re moisture, temperature, feeding etc…toad can out-compete treefrog for food, snakes cannot be too moist, etc. Please let me know if you need specific info once you decide, best, frank
Hi Frank,
You have an interesting blog, and I have some comments and questions to add/ask. I live in a Minnesotan suburb with a 2-acre pond adjacent to my backyard. It is a terrific area for American toads. Almost every summer I see American toads near my rock garden, usually attracted to an illuminating light from my office window. This year, however, there has been one dominant American toad present. It is a female, about two years old, based on what I have learned. She made a den under two flat rocks and I observed her emerging at twilight from about mid-July. I observed her night feeding by sitting on the step adjacent to the office window ledge where she would hunt flying insects. One night I decided to try my hand at catching some of these flying insects. I would do this within a few feet of her. She never budged. When I caught a misquito between my fingers I offered it to her by slowly moving my hand to her face. At first she tilted her head a little. Because the misquito was still moving she grabbed it with her lightling-quick tongue. I was surprised! However, I kept repeating this. That first night I must have caught several misquitos and moths. She took every one of them. I kept doing this for several nights during that first week of this initial encounter. I also wanted to observe her in the early morning, so I got up about 5:00 am to see her return from the window, crawl down from the least steep portion of that window ledge, and do a combination of hopping and crawling to her chosen rock garden den. I have never heard of anyone else hand-feeding wild toads, and am wondering if you have? I thought this was an extremely easy-going female American toad, so I decided to pick up one early evening when I found her on the sidewalk. Unlike other American toads I have handled before, she did not urinate on me. However, I do not believe she enjoyed being handled, either. I placed her on the window ledge, and there were no issues. She continued her nightly feeding. Later in July, I observed her less and less at that window ledge, and instead, more often at the front of my garage door which is adjacent to the end of that same rock garden. And, she no longer was inside that rock garden den during the day. Gradually, through early morning observation, I learned that she had made another den some 30 – 40 feet away between some cut wooden log partitions adjacent to a strip of lawn that borders my driveway. I watched her hop down the sidewalk and disappear into a crevice in between these log partitions. She seems to have expanded her night-feeding territory to include that garage area, which can be dangerous, as there are raccoons that occasionally roam here. I have on occasion picked her up from that driveway and brought her to the illuminated office window during early evening. I figured that if she was fearful she would urinate in my hand. This has never happened, yet she does not stay the entire evening at that window. Do you think I have scared her off by handling her or hand-feeding her? She has never refused my hand-feeding. A couple of times I have collected small grasshoppers to feed to her. No issues — like most American toads, she has a voracious appetite. This week is the first week that I have not seen her at all. It has been about two days. I am assuming that she has again made herself a third den. She may also have fallen prey to another predator. I have no intention of keeping her as a pet, as I prefer to see toads like her active outside like I have this summer. Do you know if it is common for American toads to expand a territory like this, especially when there seems to be no other toads her size living in the vicinity? I preface this by mentioning that there are several (3 – 4) yearling (toadlets) living in that same rock garden. Please comment on this. I appreciate your knowledge on the subject.
Best regards,
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thanks…great observations, and very interesting. This is the best way to learn about an animal, and there’s still quite a bit we don’t know even about common species. American toads and most of their relatives tend to be much more amenable to contact than other species; may stem in part from the excellent protection offered by the skin toxins…adults have little to fear. We see similar reactions among some types poison frogs (Dendrobates as well). When I worked in Costa Rica, marine toads would push open a screen door to enter a patio area, clambering over people’s feet in the process! Nit typical for a toad to feed from the hand, but individuals vary greatly in such things,. I have had some feed upon insects dropped in front of them. Another species that may do this is bull and green frogs…but only if they are undisturbed generally by people, and they rarely come as close as toads. Wild American toads are believed to keep the same general territories for their entire lives, which may exceed 20 years.But there is some flexibility if conditions change, and they will move in and out of different areas to take advantage of differing food resources…much more complicated than we imagined before looking closely at them. An individual might how up at a certain field just as the years may beetles begin to emerge from their pupae; on rainy nights there may be movement towards areas where earthworms surface, etc. weather can drive this also, and if a better territory is found one may re-settled. Territories are not strictly defended, as with male bullfrogs and others, so it can be difficult to track what’s going on. Foraging times may also change in tune with temperature and insect movements. Very interesting that you were able to locate 2 dens! they also sometimes simply bury beneath soil, as a temporary retreat..perhaps when “caught out” late or when feeding temporarily in a new site. I’m sure the handling did not cause the animal to leave; they are rarely put off by something of that nature, esp. an especially bold individual. Enjoy and please keep me posted, Frank
Hi Frank,
Thank you for the fast reply and comments. I wonder if you think the following is plausible: A 2-year old female individual (Bufo americanus) that has or uses multiple dens during a summer season. I say summer, because here in Minnesota the spring season is relatively short. This year, for example, we had a little over a month of typicalsSpring weather. So in effect, the summer began in late May and will likely last until late September. I first observed this particular female indvidual in mid-July in the rock garden adjacent to my garage. As described in the previous message, she went from there in late July to a den adjacent to my driveway. Beginning in early August she disappeared from that area, but has continued to appear at the window ledge of my illumitated office. I have attempted to follow her in the early morning, but she heads into an area of my neighbors yard that I choose not to intrude upon during such an early part of the day. I suspect she has a den somewhere near that yard. I continue to feed her by hand at that window ledge. Her frequency of appearing there is roughly every other night, about half an hour past dusk. Since I only began to observe her in mid-July, is it possible she had a previous den somewhere other than that rock garden? In other words, do you think it is possible that she has had at least four dens since mating season got over? I have encountered one other female since I wrote last, this one being about the same age, possibly a year younger, as she is a bit smaller. I found her near the second den that the other female occupied for about a week – 10 days. I’m wondering if when one toad leaves, another feels free to move in. These toads are living within one acre from each other in a typical suburban yard environment, with a two-acre pond attached to this backyard. What do you think? Also, I forgot to mention; I was born in New Jersey, and my first visit to a zoo was at the Bronx Zoo!
Best regards,
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thanks for your note and observations.
I thnk den/burrow use has much to do with the habitat and food availability. Some observers report long term use – years – of a single shelter, others more along the lines of what you have been seeing. Some individuals or populations seem not to establish a home den, but rather burrow just below the soil in a different place each day.
The are interesting reports of toads being sealed int a shelter..usually within a wall or foundation of a houise, seemingly for years, but surviving on insects that found there way in. I never knew what to make of them, but then upon dismantling a concrete pool in a window exhibit of a large pet store, I came across 2 healthy Colorado River Toads…we hadn’t stocked them in the 8 months or so of my time there, and a review of past orders showed that it was at least 4-5 years since any came in. No way to be sure how long that were trapped there (concrete base was porous, but no way in or out when I arrived, but an impressive amount of time in any case!
Hi, I found your blog and was hoping to ask a question. My mom has 6 toads that snuck into her cellar as babies – about the size of a quarter. She keeps them in a large tank. 1 of them has been panting. They get lots of natural sunlight and also have a reptile lamp. Do you have any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks
Hello,
Open mouth breathing can indicate parasites, a respiratory nfection or other ailments.; but there’s no way to diagnose via symptoms. I may be able to find an experienced vet for you, but releasing the animal might be preferable, as it would be able to find a more varied diet..hibernation, if it survives, also tends to kill off certain bacteria. Please let me know if you need more info on care…UVB (reptile light) generally not a concern for toads, Best, Frank
Hello Frank,
I have an American Toad and I was wondering if it could live with my Northern Leopard Frog in a 30 Gallon temporarily for a few months they are all around my area so I know they can live together as I kept them together before. I never have over the winter in a tank before though. Also, I am going to get a custom Vivarium made for them in the summer. Would this space be adequate for 2 Toads and 3 Leopard Frogs? 4ftx2ftx2ft. I was also looking into an Eastern Spadefoot Toad and Five Lines Skink. I was going for a natural PA/NC style tank. I feed them in a deprecate bin so there will be no problems with someone not getting as much food as the others.
Thanks
Hello Aaron,
Should be fine as long as you provide enough dry land for the toad. The larger vivarium will provide enough space if properly set-up. Spadefoots are very interesting, although most I’ve kept would not emerge until after dark; a red light bulb helps in viewing them. Five lines great as well, especially in small groups (1 male)…they need a warm basking spot and UVB, so you’ll need to be careful not to overheat the frogs; however, all the species you have in mind can take fairly warm temperatures. Nice project – please keep me posted, frank
Thank you for the quick response, I greatly appreciate it. I was looking at my American Toad, a Southern Toad, 2 Northern Leopard Frogs, a Southern Leopard Frog, an Eastern Spadefoot Toad, and a Five Lined Skink. I don’t have them all yet but as I go on I defiantly will post. I am going to see how the animals handle it first then add on. That’s roughly a 435 gallon tank if my math is right. But anyways, I could show you pics of the setup when I start if you want? You would have to give me your e-mail to send them.
Thanks again
Hi Aaron,
It’s sometimes hard to judge details from photos, but you can send to findiviglio@thatpetplace.com.; The measurements you sent last time seem to be for an approximately 55 gallon tank…please check again, perhaps a typo? Best, Frank
Hi Frank,
I apologize for the improper measurements someone told me to multiply all 3 dimensions in centimeters and divide by 1000. Thank you for correcting me though I greatly appreciate it. Then since it’s only a 55 Gallon I will have to eliminate the skink from the idea because that would overcrowd the animals. That’s okay with me. I will send pictures and look forward to your help and guidance in this project. I have one more question on Leopard Frogs. Is it possible they can live longer then 8-12 years in captivity? Would the Vivarium help or hurt or not even matter to the longitibity
Hello Aaron,
Better to stick with frogs/toads only in general, as their needs differ from lizards in most cases.
There aren’t any longer records, but it is possible. With proper care, captives generally live longer than wild counterparts, as predators/competitors are not present, food is assured and vet care may be available. On the down side, providing a balanced diet can be difficult, parasites build up higher numbers if untreated and ammonia toxicity (waste products ) is more likely. Please keep me posted as you move along, and maybe I can help you set a new longevity record,..i have a red salamander (Pseudotriton ruber) – as small species, delicate i captivity, aged 35-40, so maybe…! Also 45 year old musk turtle, 22 year old Af Clawed Frog, but those are not exceptional. Best, Frank
Sorry my phone is acting up I meant longitivtiy of their life?
Thanks, Aaron
Hello again Frank,
Thank you for the positive outlook for the leopard frogs. I believe I can provide a very diverse diet for both the frogs and toads. They would obviously get Crickets, Mealworms and Superworms occasionally but also Waxworms, Waxworm Moths, Earthworms, Butterworms, and believe it or not, some places sell European Praying Mantis egg cases so I could also feed them to the frogs and toads. I’m also thinking of using either goldfish or minnows for the frogs on rare occasions since they are known. To feed on them. I’m curious on how you feel about feeder fish, possibly anoles or house flies. These are captive bread animals and will be tested for worms every so often.
Thanks a bunch
AAron
Hi Aaron,
My pleasure.
Avoid mealworms/supermw, other than newly-molted grubs. Earthworms are ideal as a base diet; minnows excellent; diets high in goldfish linked to health problems in other herps, occasional use is fine.
Yes, I always promote hatching mantid egg cases for smaller species (and for kids to watch)…hatchlings are tiny, however. No need for anoles. House flies, if lab raised, are excellent for many frogs, critical for treefrogs. You might enjoy:
http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2014/02/18/collecting-insects-reptile-amphibian-food-traps-tips/#.VIoL3ntkD6o
http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2010/03/08/houseflies-and-maggots-as-food-for-reptiles-amphibians-and-invertebrates/#.VIoL8ntkD6o
Best, Frank
Hello Frank,
The article was very helpful to a varied diet. For the winter however I feel I can only feed Crickets, Earthworms, Dubias and Fish on occasion. In the summer I have a lot to work with from what I have read. Earwigs and Rolly Polly bugs are all around as My family has a pond in the backyard. I have read on various forums that using wild caught bugs was bad because the animals could get parasites is this true or are these forums pulling a fast one on me? Also, would Meal and Superworms be ok on occasion to add in like for my toad she can eat 6 large crickets (because she is a beast!) could I feed 4 crickets and a few of the small mw’s to vary her diet every so often rather then just crickets some winter months?
Thanks for all the help, sorry for the continuous posting,
AAron
Hello Aaron,
Please post anytime…great comments and others will appreciate as well.
Parasite/pesticide transmission is always possible…parasites even with farm-raised feeders, but we’ve not seen this at the zoo. Many parasites are specific in their host selection. I’ve always used wild caught when time permits. please see the articles under further reading in the article I sent earlier for cautions. Winter diet should be fine, esp. if earthworms and powdered supplements are used, . You can also order sow bugs online and breed, I have an article posted on that; good source of calcium but would be okay to wait until you can collect also. I avoid MW for smaller amphibs…high in chitin, hard to digest, poor CA: Phosphorous ratio; If you keep a colony, newly-molted (white) grubs are okay. Best Frank
Interesting discussion but I don’t understand the mention of anoles. It seems like Aaron is saying he’s considering using them as food for his toads. Was that a typo? I hope so.
Hello,
Free living adult southern toads or leopard frogs will opportunistically take small anoles, but it’s not a common food and not necessary for captives. Brown anoles are sold as a food source for lizard-eating snakes, but toads do fine on a varied diet of invert; leopard frogs benefit from an occasional minnow. Best, Frank
Hi Frank,
I appreciate all the help I am truly learning a lot. I have a couple questions on my American Toad. She is wild caught, I rescued her from a ditch she fell into in my work and I brought her home. I have studied her for 4 months now. She has grown a lot. I have noticed she would stay awake for 3 days and would dig down and hide for 3 days. Since winter has come her cycle seems to have gotten mixed up. She comes out late at night and she has recently only come out and sat in one spot all night and then she burrows down and does it again the next night. She has been eating very well and shed a week ago. I am going to get a fecal exam of her and the Leopard Frog before they become tank mates. I think she may be 13 months old. Is it normal for her to be slower at times and have a chaotic cycle in the winter?
Hi Aaron,
Glad to hear, thanks.
Yes, the artificial conditions indoors conflict with the internal cycles/circadian rhythms. native frogs usually do fine; some turtles and others refuse food even if kept warm. best,. frank
Hello Gord & Frank,
It’s AAron again. I had seen different places where they used brown anoles to feed snakes, other lizards and frogs. I just wondered how Frank felt about it. I have bee doing a lot of thinking since posting on here. I feel it would be best if I did not use the Spadefoot Toad either because it would be very challenging and I would have a heart attack trying to find it. I have decided to instead have A couple meaning a male & female (if I can be so lucky) of American Toads, Northern Leopard Frogs, & Southern Toads while only having 1 Southern Leopard Frog. I have believe it or not after all this talk been considering the Carolina Anole as well because that’s one of the most popular Herps in NC. Would the Carolina Anole be ok in here with a ceramic heater, Repti Glo 2.0 or a 26W light and being fed in a separate container? Thanks for all the help and development on here,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Spadefoots do not do well if continually un-earthed; best left to their own devices, viewed on those few occasions when you catch them out above ground.
Anoles tricky to keep with frogs…the heat they need dries substrates, high UVB needs which may not be good for frogs, large adults will eat them, etc.
Best, frank
Hello again Frank,
Thanks for the reply back. It does seem to be challenging to keep Anoles with Frogs and Toads. I think I will just stick to the Amphibians. Thanks for all the help and I’ll let you know when I start this.
AAron
Please keep me posted…a happy, healthy season to you and yours, Frank
Hello Frank,
I got the 30 Gallon and have it up and running. I only have a bunch of vines and a peace Lilly so far in there. I’m going to look into ferns also. Do you know where I can find ferns that will thrive in a Vivarium that are from North America? I also found a bin and made it suitable for the leopard frogs water dish. He can submerge completely. I put the Toads rock in the water so she can get out. I also used a plastic floater for them to get out. It’s been a few days and when I put the toad in she was very happy, then the next morning I woke up and she was no where to be found. She is doing the same thing that she did in her last tank. The leopard frog is a dominant male who croaked all times of the day until introduced to the toad and the new tank. Is it normal for him to spend quite a bit of time on land? The project has started.
Thanks,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Leopard frogs wander far from water when weather is damp…were called “meadow frogs” long ago; he’ll regulate as needed. Avoid rough , overly-dry substrates.
Pothos is a bit “too regular” for many people, but I love it….will grow floating, on land, can trim and leaves and form nice lives vines etc.
I don’t have any dealers to refer you to, sorry; try Black Jungle and similar suppliers; check FB for fern interest groups…Bromeliad folks are often interested in ferns also, plenty of related groups online. Some are tricky..best to go with what folks recommend as hardy…I used several natives at zoo w/o much luck, but would like to hear if you try any local species. Good luck, enjoy and pl keep me posted, Frank
Hello Frank,
Thank you for the relieving news about my Leopard Frog. I will look into pothos. I just thought that it would make both animals more comfortable. I am not too picky about plants. I have been letting my Toad sleep a lot and since she didn’t come up I haven’t really fed get except when her and Spot ( Leopard Frog ) went in the tank. Will it be ok to only feed her when she comes up? I haven’t seen her poop in quite a while I think due to the winter month. Also as I was looking into that tank for the PA/NC Vivarium, I saw that the 5ftx2ftx2ft was only $35 more so I’m really considering that. That would be a great deal of space for every inhabitant. So the Five Lined Skink might be back in discussion as well.
Thanks for the continued help and advice, greatly appreciated,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Pothos is great as a cover plant…frogs can move in and around it, leaves stand up to squashing, etc.
Yes, feed toad when it seems hungry… cool nite temps could be affecting it; active range may be different from that of the frog (temperature tolerance etc varies widely across the range of each, so origin of the animal matters); assuming it’s in good health, the toad will not starve,…very effective at storing fat, slowing metabolism. Best, Frank
The Leopard Frog is from the northern part of the east coast. I keep them in 73 F and up to 80. Is that to cold for the Toad? When I saw her she looked like she maintained all her weight. She looked really good and ate a few worms before disappearing again. I’m going to have them tested soon so I can find out if she is sick.
Thanks,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Most toads and leopard frogs remain active, feeding into the mid 50’s; in general, low-mid 70’s preferable to higher temps. “Internal clocks” sometimes govern behavior…wild caught animals may become dormant in winter even if kept warm; but there are few general rules…much to be learned. After a few worms the toad will not need food for some time…not expending much energy, even when active, in a tank etc. Seems like all is fine, enjoy, Frank
Hello again Frank,
I had gotten some plants from lowes to put in the terrarium and had to move my toad. She was very fat and she has been like this when I would wake her up if I needed to move her. She would normally take a long pee and be back to normal hoping around the tank. She was no different this past time, she was very fat though. What do you think this could be? Also I was looking into natural plants for the big terrarium. Would these plants be fine?
plant purple pitcher
Maidenhair ferns
Iris
Canna Plant
Myrtle
Bamboo
Charlotte bromeliad
Venus flytrap
Ficus
Pothos
Lady Fern
Water lettuce
Water hyacinth
Ribbon Grass
Thanks,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
They are very good at storing fat, and expend few calories in tanks, so they do tend to become obese. A swollen appearance, caused more by gas than fat, is indicative of a parasitic infection, bacterial prob etc…but you’d see other symptoms.
Small ficus, pothos are ideal; other typical houseplants that work well are spider plants, cast iron pl, Chinese evergreen, earth stars. Canna, isir are huge – 6-8 feet for canna, as far as I know. Ferns can be tough but worth trying. Insectivorous plants are fascinating but most need specialized conditions..acidic soil, very humid surroundings etc, and many are delicate, will be crushed. Perhaps better kept for their own sake, or with tiny amphibs, some spiders, etc. Some of the larger pitchers, and the hanging pitchers, may work.
The fluid released by the toad is generally stored water as opposed to urine – used to distract predators when toad is attacked. Fairly instinctive, but they sometimes cease the habit after a time in captivity,
Enjoy, Frank
Hello Frank,
My Toad has never urinated on me ever. I mean when she comes up from the dirt she will release something. So if every time she comes up and she returns to normal size, she is okay then? Also iris plants are all around my area and my relatives have canna all around theirs. It’s relatively small now. If I would cut the iris and the canna plant back when they grow to large would I be able to use them? I was looking into plants native to PA & NC and Venus Fly Traps came up with some of these. I thought it was worth asking. But I’m very interested about using plants both the northern and southern inhabitants actually have in their native habitat. I’ll keep looking around the web and asking around. Thanks for the help,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Yes, sounds like the toad is fine.
I’ve not tried using iris, canna…would do no harm if you can get it to grow. Fly traps may work if you cn plant high on a ledge etc, out of reach. Nice to use natives, but temperate plants often die back in the fall, even if given light etc…this is why we must often substitute tropical species in zoo exhibits…they grow year-round. But there may be exceptions,. I’ll keep in mind also, best, Frank
Hello Frank,
The Toad and Leopard Frog are doing well together. They actually will borrow next to each other during the day. The Leopard Frog has become tolerant of me, he gets nervous when touched still. Work on the project is nearly ready, I am looking into the planning process now. I’m also looking at a custom terrarium that is 5ftx2ftx2ft. I am still committed to pairs of American Toads, Northern Leopard Frogs and Southern Toads, However, I was wondering how a Green Frog and or a Southern Leopard Frog would do? Which would do better possibly, if the space would be enough space for these animals. I was looking online for care sheets about Green Frogs on Frog Forum and saw they were very aggressive. Then I saw your blogs on them. Great articles by the way, just curious. Also would it be good to have earthworms, the roly poley bugs, and sow bugs colonies in the tank? Thanks
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Nice to hear that your project is progressing. Green frogs are highly aquatic,and need a good deal of well-filtered water. A large adult would consume or try to consume leopard frogs. Good idea to release sow bugs into the tank; great scavengers and food source for the frogs. Earthworms do not always survive at room temperatures in the summer…species vary as to heat tolerance. Enjoy, Frank
Dear Frank,
Thanks for the advice. I had no idea that Green Frogs were so aggressive. I have seen them together so much I would have never known. Would it be safe for Wood Frogs or would the Leopard Frogs try to eat them too?
Thanks
AAron
Hi Aaron,
They do often live in close proximity to one another; it’s not territorial aggression, but rather feeding..all frogs will try to eat whatever fits in their mouths, but green frogs get big enough to be a risk, and tend to focus on large food items when available…dragonflies, minnows, smaller frogs. Adult Wood frogs should do okay, they are almost as terrestrial as toads. Best, Frank
Hey Frank,
I’m growing a little concerned with my Leopard Frog. He seems to be unhappy and I can’t think of many reasons why. I have noticed he hasn’t been as hungry and has been hiding more. I haven’t fed them anything but crickets in a few weeks because a local bait shop was getting ready to open. Could this be a reason? I found that the store I purchased him from collected him from Texas, possibly mating season? He hasn’t appeared sick but this can’t be ruled out. I’m just concerned.
Thanks,
AAron
Hello Aaron,
Unfortunately there’s no way to diagnose the problem by symptoms alone, as not feeding is common to just about every ailment they may have. Assuming the water and substrate are clean and ammonia-free, a vet visit would be your best option if the animal does not feed. crickets alone are not an adequate diet, but they are usually readily taken. Wild caught animals always harbor parasites…some of these cause no problems, but others can become dangerous in captivity. Please let me know if you need more info. best, frank
Hey Frank,
Thanks for the timely response. I agree that crickets alone aren’t good, they eat tomorrow so I’ll stop by the bait shop and pickup some earthworms and Waxworms and see if that makes a difference. He doesn’t look any skinnier but he doesn’t take the food like he used too. I’ll see if he perks up with the different options tomorrow, if he remains this way I will take him to the vet. I have been taking the screen off and watching them eat which has been a slight change from before. Could change of how I feed them be a reason?
Thanks,
AAron
Hi Aaron,
Stress affects them, but difficult to say if this is the reason. They love earthworms, and these are better as a dietary staple than crickets, so perhaps that will help. Pets tend to get more food than they need, so it may just be reaching its limits; try fasting for a few days, best, Frank
Hello Frank,
My husband loves frogs and we now have what we believe are a pacific northwest tree frog and a Cascades frog (we live in Seattle). I’m not sure how much you know about Seattle area frogs, but I was wondering if they can live together in the same tank? And how big of a tank would they need? We currently have them in their own tank, but I would love to save some space!
Thanks,
Cecilia
Hello Cecilia,
Large frogs will consume any smaller creature, including other frogs; the cascades frog, or a similar species, would also out-compete and stress the other. Diet is a key concern for these and others..please see this article and feel free to send info re their set-up, care and diet. Best, Frank
The pacific tree frog is smaller, and we would hate it if he was eaten!
Dear Frank,
I have recently moved to Utah from northern California. When I lived in California I was pleasantly surprised to find toads in my garden. I got them toad houses that they actually lived in. I put out a large saucer of water which they drank from. That was my first contact ever with toads and I loved them. I really miss the little guys. I would love to have more now that I am in Utah, but I don’t know where to find them. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hello Rickie,
Well, Utah is not among the most “amphibian-friendly” of states! Actually, there are 8 very interesting toad species there, but most, i.e. the 3 spadefoots, Arizona, Red-Spotted Toads are localized in distribution and remain dormant during dry periods, emerging only after rains. the Great Plains and Woodhouse’s Toads are more widespread and adapt to a variety of habitats. Houses generally work best when a population is present…water, especially a sizable shallow pool, can be effective in drawing toads in, especially if provided at the start of the breeding season in arid locales. Please see this site for info on where each species occurs within Utah, and let me know if you need more info, enjoy, Frank
Hello Frank,
Things have been well with the project. I caught the male toad that will accompany the other one and the leopard frogs in the build. I come with some bad news however, my toad the one who made it through the winter seem like she is sick. I can’t be too sure because it’s mating season here and my leopard frog acted weird when it was his time. She has been laying around all day and night. I’m wondering if maybe her summer cycle of sleeping is back, or maybe she has become bored. When I took her out she was very active and getting into everything in the hallway. I think it’s time for a vet visit because she hasn’t gone in a long time and last feed was the first time she didn’t take any. I know you said about them reaching their limits but there are a lot if possibilities now I also have been finding her asleep with her eyes closed. Just wondering what’s best because I hate seeing her like this. Please help,
AAron
Hello Aaron,
Unfortunately there’s no way to diagnose a health problem of this type without a vet visit…parasites, which are always present in wild caught animals, are often involved; some are relatively harmless, but populations build in captivity. I hope all goes well, please keep me posted, frank
Hey Frank,
AAron here, the build is complete and I’m missing the female leopard frog since where I got the male is sold out currently. Spot the Leopard Frog I have been noticing has twitching toes and I’m taking him to the doctors this week. I use Repti Cal with D3 and Reptivite with Vitamin A. He was looking nervous. This is strange behavior for him. So the Dr. Visit will really ease things. The one toad had a prolapse and is better now. She got help also. Toto the toad wasn’t soaking so it was hard for her to go. The other toad the new male King II is fine. He is very calm and burrows until he is hungry. I also play a noise to stimulate behavior. It’s bugs from the woods like crickets, katydid, and etc. I use T5 lights that are on timers. I have an LED light that’s in the setup. The plants are all doing fine. I am using Periwinkle, Dragon’s Tail Ferns, and Water Lettuce. I had Ribbon Grass but am replacing it for Blue Fescue Grass since it will stay small and can handle the particular part of the enclosure. So there isn’t much left. I use an Exo Terra Monsoon RS400 with extensions to mist both this and my WTF’s. I have an Exo Terra Fogger also and will have a 100W Ceramic Heat Emitter for the colder seasons. I have learned a lot in just this past month that it’s been up and running with the differences in a 30 Gallon and a 75 Gallon with Local Plants and Animals. It’s definitely not for beginners or lazy people haha. I have a Thread on the Frog Forum from the beginning to now on the progress. It should be named 75 Gallon Vivarium Build and I’m
Larry Wardog As a username.
I also have a YouTube channel going for the Frogs and Toads of the 75 Gallon (WTF’s soon) so if you want you can see the videos of them also.
http://youtu.be/f79DsOlWTrg
That’s the newest.
I just wanted to give an update for how things have been. Thanks for all of the help, I greatly appreciate it.
AAron