That Reptile Blog – Reptile, Amphibian and Exotic Pet Care and Information

Poison frogs respond quickly to novel situations and are among the best amphibian candidates for enrichment experiments. I enjoy watching them “figure out” new things. One technique I use is to place crickets into a container perforated with tiny holes – the frogs soon learn to associate the container with food, and will gather about it, watching the holes for escaping insects. On non-feeding days, you may still notice that the frogs will pause occasionally to peer at the feeder, apparently in anticipation of a meal.

Establishing a colony of springtails (tiny, wingless insects that may be collected below leaf litter) in the terrarium’s substrate will also provide your frogs with “naturalistic” hunting opportunities. Springtails will thrive on decaying moss and the frogs’ waste products, and usually do quite well and provide valuable nutrients to your pets (springtails can also be given a bit of tropical fish flakes on occasion). It is great fun to watch poison frogs scrutinize every inch of the terrarium and to stalk their prey, and they surely benefit from the increased activity levels.

Information about behavioral enrichment for reptiles and amphibians at the National Zoo is posted at:
http://nationalzoo.si.edu/Animals/ReptilesAmphibians/enrichment/

Feeding
Snapping turtles take a wide variety of prey (see Part I) and will accept nearly any animal-based food placed before them (hatchlings may need to be started on live blackworms and guppies, and weaned to non-living food items). However, in order to thrive, they require a variety of nutritious foods and a good deal of calcium.

Reptomin can be used as 50-75% of the diets of turtles small enough to accept it. Calcium is best supplied by offering whole fresh water fish (and crayfish and snails if available) on at least a weekly basis. Guppies, minnows, shiners and similar fish are fine. Goldfish can be used on an occasional basis, but a steady diet of these has been implicated in liver problems in other species. Marine fish (bait fish, Tilapia, etc.) are useful as an occasional treat as well. Meat table scraps are appreciated, but most of your turtle’s diet should consist of whole organisms and commercially prepared foods.

The balance of the diet should be as varied as possible – earthworms, crickets and other insects, crayfish, shrimp, freeze dried prawn, pink mice, waxworms, mealworms, etc. Snappers will also eagerly accept most frozen foods marketed for tropical fish and catfish and cichlid pellets , but such should be used as a treat, not a steady diet. Any insects you come across will be eagerly gobbled by young turtles, and will provide important dietary variety. Be sure to purchase different types of fresh water fish from your local fish market from time to time – this will be especially necessary for large turtles.

Larger animals may require unique strategies if they are to receive a balanced diet in captivity – please write in if you own a large turtle and would like some ideas.

Wild snappers may take plant material on occasion, but most captives do not. You might, however, experiment with kale, dandelion and other greens.

Captive Longevity
Snapping turtles have lived for over 40 years in captivity; the record for an alligator snapper is just over 70 years.

Handling
This is definitely a pet to observe, not handle. I’ll write about a safe technique for picking up large, aggressive turtles in the near future.

Social Groups and Breeding
Snapping turtles are best housed alone – in groups, feeding-related injuries are common and males are intolerant of each other. Small snappers can be housed with other turtles but, oddly enough, they are slow feeders at this stage and easily out-competed by other species. Larger animals will attempt to eat any and all tank-mates (I have a quite sad zoo story concerning this – please check back for future articles).

Snappers will breed in captivity if provided a cool winter period and access to a fairly deep nesting site. This requires space, but is possible – I’ll relate my own experiences in a future article. Please see Part I for notes on reproduction in the wild.

Miscellaneous
Alligator snapping turtles, Macroclemmys temmincki, are now bred commercially and available in a variety of sizes. Their husbandry follows that of the related common snapper, but there are enough fine points to warrant a separate article. Please stay tuned. Please also note that this species is among the world’s largest fresh water turtles, and may top 200 pounds in weight – hard to imagine when one contemplates buying a tiny hatchling. Please think before buying.

Additional Resources
http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Chelydra_serpentina.html

Keeping a snapping turtle is not easy, but can be very rewarding.

As mentioned in Part I of this article, snapping turtles are held in great regard as pets in places where they are not native. This is not surprising – they are hardy and interesting, and grow into impressively large animals. They are, however, not for everyone, and careful consideration should be give before acquiring a snapping turtle or its much larger cousin, the alligator snapping turtle. Hatchlings are irresistibly cute, but growing animals require a great deal of space, strong filtration systems and careful handling.

Aquarium Size and Physical Setup
Snapping turtles are entirely aquatic, rarely bask and usually leave the water only to lay eggs. Hatchlings and small turtles are best kept in water of a depth that allows them to breathe by extending their necks to the surface. They mainly walk about the bottom and are not good swimmers. If kept in deep water, they should be provided with sunken branches and rocks that provide a “highway” to the surface, lest they be weakened by the strain of swimming.

Hatchlings are invariably shy at first, and should be provided with bottom cover in the form of artificial plants under which they can hide. Nearly all become quite bold after a time – a hiding place such as a clay pot or other shelter will still be used, however.

Animals up to 10 inches or so in carapace length can be accommodated in a 55 gallon aquarium. After that point, a larger tank or outdoor pond is best. Snapping turtles can also be maintained in plastic sweater boxes and storage tubs which are dumped or drained and cleaned as needed).

Substrate complicates cleaning and is best avoided for all except hatchlings. Smooth rocks and driftwood that comes to within a few inches of the surface will allow the turtle a comfortable resting site.

Snapping turtles have disproportionately long, thick tails and can use them quite well as props while climbing. Be sure their enclosure is well covered, or too deep from which to escape. They are quite alert and will definitely take advantage of any mistakes you make in this regard.

Filtration can be a problem, especially for larger animals. Be sure to use a suitably powerful canister, submersible or pond filter. Small turtles will be stressed and unable to feed well if blown about by the filter’s outflow, so modify this by directing it upward or against a rock if necessary. Water changes, partial or full, will be required in addition to filtration.

A useful technique to help keep the tanks of “sloppy” feeders such as turtles clean is to feed the animals in a bucket or enclosure other than their home. Snappers will adjust well to this, and will often defecate after feeding if left in the feeding container for an hour or so after eating ( turtles, are, however, quite aware of their environments – some will try to escape as soon as they finish their meal, and may become stressed if left out of their tank for too long).

Light and Heat
Snapping turtles are among the most cold tolerant of the world’s turtles. I have observed them moving on the bottoms of ice-covered ponds, and basking at the water’s surface on warm days in February in NYC. Normal room temperatures are fine, and allowing them to cool slightly in winter is a good idea. They will continue to feed when temperatures are in the mid-60’s F, but less vigorously than in summer.

Snapping turtles rarely bask- when they do it is usually done in shallow water or while floating at the surface. In cool weather, an incandescent basking light will be appreciated. Unlike most turtles, snappers obtain Vitamin from their diet, and do not need a UVB source. However, such lighting more closely mimic’s the natural situation, and may provide other benefits. Therefore, I suggest using a Reptisun UVB 5.0 fluorescent bulb or a Repti-glo UVB bulb over your turtle’s enclosure.

Recent studies at Australia’s Melbourne University have now brought us back to square one. Although the foregoing information holds true, it seems that at least 1 species, Smith’s dwarf chameleon, Bradypodium taeniabronchum, does indeed specifically change its color to match its background when threatened. Not only that, but it also tailors the degree of change to the specific predator. When faced with a sharp-eyed predator such as a bird, the lizard’s color changes to match the stick upon which it rests perfectly. Less well-sighted animals, such as snakes, elicit a less-perfect camouflage.

It seems that color change exacts a heavy toll, physiologically, on the chameleon. This is likely the reason that it does not employ “perfect” camouflage unless forced to do so by the nature of its enemy.

Last time I wrote about the natural history of this behemoth of freshwater turtles, and I plan to address its care in captivity (for those of you who are up to it!) shortly. There is so much of interest concerning this impressive beast, however, that I find myself compelled to write a bit more. Hopefully, the following notes that will show you what I mean:

The snapping turtle is the Western Hemisphere’s second largest fresh water turtle (following the alligator snapping turtle). The largest to date weighed 86 pounds, but rumors of 100 pound plus individuals persist.

The scientific species name, “serpentina”, refers to the long, snake-like neck and explosive strike. They avoid people in water, but bite viciously when disturbed, especially if on land.

This species is trapped and bred on farms for its meat, which is served in restaurants both here and abroad.

Snapping turtles are, as far as we know, the most cold tolerant of all turtles – in temperate areas they hibernate, but can sometimes be seen swimming below the ice on sunny days in winter. I have observed individuals basking in late January in NYC.

The alligator snapping turtle, Macroclemmys temmincki, a relative, is one of the world’s largest freshwater turtles, topping 200 pounds in weight. Native to the southeastern United States (occasionally ranging north to southern Illinois), its numbers are in sharp decline due to over-collection and habitat loss. An individual I cared for at the Bronx Zoo was 206 pounds at last weighing, and larger animals are known.