Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  The term “conure” includes a number of small to medium-sized parrots (i.e. genera Aratinga, Pyrrhura, Cyanoliseus and Nandayus) found from Mexico to southern South America.  While not necessarily closely related, aviculturists lump them together for convenience sake.  North America’s Carolina parakeet, closely related to Aratinga, would likely have been considered a “conure” had it not been hunted to extinction in the early 1900’s.

Nearly all accounts of conures include the word “clown”.  Having observed flocks of conures in the wild and worked with others in huge outdoor exhibits, I can vouch that this description is most appropriate…they are among the most active and engaging of all parrots.

Popular Conures

Many popular pet conures belong to the genus Aratinga, which means “little macaw”.  Certainly they have outsized personalities, and “act” as though they are as large as macaws - if anything, they are even more boisterous.

The genus Pyrrhura is comprised of conures that, while more somberly colored than their relatives, are never-the-less quite beautiful.  Their personalities are also subdued, exhibiting the intelligence of the Aratinga without the noise.  Many make wonderful, affectionate pets.

Other parrot genera contain species that are usually referred to as conures as well.  Of these, the Nanday Conure (Nandayus nanday) and the Patagonian Cconure (Cyanoliseus patagonus) are popularly kept as pets.

Patagonian Conure or Burrowing Parrot, Cyanoliseus patagonus

This largest of all conures is also one of the most unusual.  It excavates nesting burrows of 6-9 feet in length in the sides of limestone or sandstone cliffs, usually overlooking the sea or a river.  Patagonian Conures nest colonially, and the burrows may interconnect with each another, reminding one more of a rabbit warren than a parrot-nesting area!  As there is usually no “landing area” in front of the cliff-side nests, Patagonian Conures fold their wings as they near and enter directly from the air, running as they hit the ground. 

Patagonian Conures are now rare over much of their range (south-central Argentina and Chile; possibly Uruguay), but they rebound rapidly when protected; despite laying only 2-3 eggs, their inaccessible nest sites and communal breeding system assures that most nestlings survive.

Working with a Flock

I was very fortunate to have had the opportunity to work with a flock of Patagonian Conures in a huge outdoor exhibit, complete with nesting burrows, at the Bronx Zoo.  I must say that these birds were perhaps the most interesting of any I have ever worked with – they literally do not stop interacting all day. 

Seeing parrots like this, or in the wild, really helps to give one a sense of their true natures, and to explain some of the problems they face as captives.  I also helped to hand-rear 6 chicks, all of which became quite popular in outreach and educational programs.

Suitability as Pets

Patagonian Conures are quite a handful in the home, vocalizing often and at high volume.  They are highly social, even by parrot standards, and remain in a close-knit flock even during the breeding season.  Pets therefore require a great deal of attention and stimulation. 

That being said, their popularity is increasing…exceptionally responsive and entertaining, they are wonderful pets for those with appropriate time, experience and space.

Next time I’ll cover some of the smaller, more popularly kept conures.  Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. 

Further Reading

Please see my article on Half Moon Conures and False Vampire Bats for a peek at an odd bit of conure natural history.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Burrowing Conure image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Hedwig Storch

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Parrots use a wide range of postures when communicating with one another and with their owners.  Understanding the meaning of your parrot’s body language will simplify interactions with your pet, and is also important in assessing its health.  Today we’ll look at puffed feathers - a behavior which can have several very different meanings, and so must be judged in the context of the surrounding circumstances.

Temperature

Parrots, and all birds for that matter, puff up their feathers in an effort to keep warm.  The layer of air trapped within the feathers and warmed by the parrot’s body provides amazingly effective insulation.  If you watch native birds during cold weather, you can readily observe this behavior.  A bird’s internal temperature is much higher than our own, averaging 106-110 F, and so many species (but only a few parrots!) easily tolerate frigid weather.

Puffed feathers can, oddly enough, also indicate that your parrot is too warm.  In this case, the feathers may be flared to a greater degree than when cold temperatures are involved, and the wings may be held out a bit from the body.  When very hot, the parrot may open its beak and pump the throat rapidly, a behavior known as gular flapping.

Aggression

Like many animals, parrots that feel threatened will attempt to make themselves appear larger…flaring their feathers and sometimes spreading the wings.  The head feathers may be raised quite high, even among species without crests (the “head display kings” are the cockatoos and hawk headed parrots; please see photo).  Aggressive parrots will also stare at the threat – you may notice the eye’s pupil widening as well – and may snap their beaks or scream. 

A normally friendly bird that suddenly begins exhibiting this behavior, especially if it does so as you approach, may be masking an injury.  Anticipating pain, the bird is warning you off and so should be checked carefully.  Sudden aggression may also arise as a result of hormonal changes associated with sexual maturity, or because the bird is jealous of attention being given its favorite person by another pet or individual.

Sickness

Sick or injured parrots, and females having difficulty passing eggs, will sit, sometimes on the cage floor, with their feathers puffed out and the body held in a “hunched” position.  The eyes may be closed or partially closed as well.  As it is in a bird’s “best interests” to hide any symptoms of illness (predators single out sick and injured individuals as prey), parrots exhibiting such dramatic signs of illness should be seen by a veterinarian right away.

Further Reading

Parrot sounds also convey a great deal of information; to learn more, please see my article What is My Parrot Saying?

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Umbrella Cockatoo image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Benjamin Graves

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Bird breeding is rarely as simple as putting a male and female together and hoping for the best.  Even Budgerigars and others that been captive bred for thousands of generations remain influenced by ancestral behaviors.  Understanding this will greatly improve our success at keeping and breeding birds in captivity.

Social Behavior in General

The majority of pet trade birds are highly social creatures.  Although they may squabble during the breeding season, the presence of flock-mates is a strong breeding stimulus.  Indeed, many aviculturists cite the absence of additional individuals as the main reason for breeding failures among well-bonded pairs.

Even reliable captive breeders such as Budgerigars may not reproduce if held in single pairs.  The addition of another pair, or even housing the pair within sight or hearing of others of their kind, often spurs nesting.

Aggression (Adults)

Despite the fact that group situations may encourage breeding, we must also bear in mind that birds living together form themselves into cohesive flocks.  Newly introduced individuals, even those suitable as mates for unpaired birds in the flock, may be attacked, especially during the breeding season.

Oddly enough, larger flocks are often more peaceful than small groups (a rule that I’ve found applicable to creatures ranging from fishes to baboons!).  Aggression tends to be meted out among several as opposed to 1 individual, and non-target birds often “get involved” and divert aggressors’ attentions.

Aggression (Chicks)

In most cases, youngsters should be removed from their parent’s cage once they are feeding on their own.  Otherwise, they may interfere with the rearing of later broods, or may be attacked by the male (monk parrots and other colonial nesting species are often exceptions). 

Usually, smaller, short-lived species (lovebirds, parrotlets), and those that inhabit harsh environments (grass parakeets) are likely to attack newly-fledged youngsters   Such birds are evolutionarily adapted to reproduce often, or to be ready as soon as the unpredictable rains arrive, and so are usually eager to re-nest.  However, despite being opportunistic breeders, budgerigars and cockatiels are often tolerant of fledglings.

Macaws and Other Long-Lived Birds

Large, long-lived parrots usually raise only a few chicks each season, and may not breed every year.  Unlike the species described above, most inhabit environments that offer predictable weather patterns and food sources, and so they can “afford” to spend a great deal of time in imparting survival skills to their young.  Macaws, African Gray Parrots and similar species are, therefore, usually quite tolerant of their youngsters long after they have left the nest. 

Mate Choice

Birds can be quite choosy (maddeningly so!) when it comes to mate selection.  This is especially true for macaws, Amazons, African Grays and other long-lived parrots.  Their pair bonds span many decades, so it behooves them to “get it right” the first time (I’ll avoid here the obvious parallels one could draw regarding our own species!).  If you are intent on breeding, it would be prudent to purchase a bonded pair or individuals that mutually groom and spend time near each other.

Some species deviate from the usual “parrot pair model”.  Certain Australian Parakeets, for example, have “difficult” relationships outside of the breeding season…they remain as a pair, but the females become somewhat aggressive towards the males.  In the close confines of captivity, they can make life quite miserable for their unfortunate mates.  As always, research your pet’s natural history thoroughly.

Further Reading

To read about what behaviors to expect as spring returns, please see Spring’s Effect of Parrots and Other Birds.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Hyacinth Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio
Macaws, Amazons and Conures in Ecuador image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Hjallig

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Birds of all types are surprisingly skilled at reading human body language, and making the connection between their body parts and ours (i.e., identifying eyes, mouth, etc.).  I’ve always been surprised by this, because we are such different beings than birds, and our facial features do not seem to line up well with theirs.  Parrots, with their natural sociability and intelligence, are particularly skilled in this regard.  Often this assists us in interacting with them, but it can also lead to unintended “misunderstandings”.

Recognizing Our Eyes

My first experience with the abilities of birds to read body language came while learning to hand feed cardinals, chickadees and other visitors to my bird feeder.  Looking directly at these birds caused them to take flight immediately, even if I had not moved a muscle (please see my article Hand Feeding Wild Birds for more information on this enjoyable hobby). 

Later, while working with birds at the Bronx Zoo, older keepers showed me how to get very close to birds in large exhibits by looking at them with a sideways glance.  One could get quite close to many birds, especially while they were feeding, by seeming to “ignore” them…staring head on sent them into a panic. 

A People-Feeding Owl

I’ve also found that some birds can recognize mouths as well.  An imprinted, hand raised great horned owl under my care courted his favorite keepers by trying to stuff mice into their mouths – he never mistook an ear for a mouth when perched on one’s shoulder (I was apparently not an attractive prospect as a mate, and so was thankfully spared his nuptial gifts!).

Our Body Language

Many people use head and hand gesticulations when speaking, often without realizing just how dramatic those movements can be.  My family, whose roots are largely in southern Italy, sometimes joked that my grandmother would be left unable to speak if her hands were tied together! 

Parrots are very attuned to even small movements on our part.  In some cases, our body language may affect out parrots in ways which we do not intend.  Millions of years of evolution have left parrots with finely honed survival abilities.  Even long term captives, remain instinctively attuned to signs of predators – wild hand or head movements may, therefore, frighten them.  Depending upon the species and individual bird’s personality, a parrot may also react with aggression to movements that it perceives as threatening. 

Some birds may react positively to our bobbing heads.  There are no hard and fast rules…just bear in mind that your parrot is basing its reaction to you on what you do as well as say.

Mistaken Reinforcement

Reacting with laughter when a parrot does something that is “wrong but cute” will reinforce the bad behavior.  Even if you follow up with a correction, the parrot has, in most cases, been given the reward it seeks – namely, being noticed.  Even reacting with a sound when bitten can encourage the parrot to bite again. 

If at all possible, get the parrot’s attention by making direct eye contact, put the bird down (if on you) or ignore it.  Following desirable behavior with notice and praise, especially if such occurs right after bad behavior, will help keep your pet on the right track. 

Further Reading

For further discussion of how human-parrot interactions can result in behavioral problems, please see my article Parrot Bonding as a Behavioral Problem.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Among the130+ species of the family Estrildidae we find popular cage birds and highly endangered species.  Some, such as the gorgeously colored Gouldian Finch, are both - at once rare in the wild yet abundant in the pet trade.

Waxbills and their relatives are often the first finches aviculturists obtain after having gained experience with the hardier zebra or society finches.  The black-headed munia and several others are well suited to this role – slightly more sensitive than Zebra Finches, yet robust enough to fare well when given proper care.

Natural History

Estrildid finches range throughout Africa, South and Southeast Asia and Australia and, with the exception of a few Australian species, favor warm climates.  They range in size from the 3.3 inch long Fernando Po Oliveback to the Java Sparrow or Rice Bird which, due to its stout build, appears larger than its 5.5 inches.

Conservation

While certain Estrildid finches are among the most numerous birds in their habitats, others, such as the Gouldian and several of the parrot finches, are classified as either vulnerable or endangered by the IUCN.  The Black-lored Waxbill, known only from a tiny range in southern Democratic Republic of Congo, has not been seen since 1950, and may be extinct.

Keeping Waxbills

Waxbills, nuns and munias are best housed in large indoor flight cages or, when the weather permits, outdoor aviaries. Warm temperatures are the rule, especially for breeding pairs (they leave the eggs unattended for longer periods than other finches), but healthy birds easily weather occasional exposure to temperatures in the low 50’s (F) if conditions are dry. 

A covered nest should be included, even for non-breeders, as many Estrildids roost in nests outside of the breeding season.

Most species are gregarious in the wild, and do well in groups in captivity.  Mated pairs, however, are best kept alone.

Diet

Although primarily seed eaters that will thrive on a base diet of high quality finch food, Estrildids need a good bit of protein as well.  Egg food and softbill food should always be available.  Small live mealworms, waxworms, crickets and other insects are preferred however.  Canned insects and anole food (dried flies) are often well-accepted also. 

Grit and cuttlebone should be available at all times.

Breeding Estrildid Finches

A number of species, especially the more popularly-kept munias and nuns, will breed readily in captivity if provided with ample room and quiet surroundings.  Tri-colored Nuns and other long-kept species are best suited for ones first attempts at breeding Estrildid finches. 

All species studied thus far construct covered nests, and many roost in these even when not raising chicks.  Protein requirements soar during the breeding season – the provision of additional protein, especially in the form of live insects, is also useful in bringing finches into reproductive condition.

Further Reading

For specific information on individual Estrildid finches, please Introducing Nuns, Munias and Mannikins and The Common Waxbill.

 I’ll cover the care of individual finch species in the future.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

 Frank Indiviglio

Gouldian Finch image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Kjacques

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  I’m often questioned on the pros and cons of keeping Budgerigars (parakeets) and other parrots singly as opposed to in pairs or groups.  Most folks are aware that parrots housed alone tend to form strong bonds to their owners, more so than birds that have others of their own kind to interact with.  While this may be true to some extent, there are other considerations.  A recent question from a bird owner who planned to give away one of her budgies, in order to make a “better pet” of the other, has prompted me to post some thoughts here.

Social Life in the Wild

Parrots, including budgies, almost always fare best when kept in pairs or appropriate groups.  Those I have observed in the wild (and this is echoed by all careful parrot-watchers) are in almost constant contact with their mates and flock members.  Even in large flocks, and during flight, it is usually quite a simple matter to spot paired birds…they remain, literally, within touching distance of one another.

Solitary Pets

A great many of the problems experienced by pet parrots are related to their being kept alone.  The agitated “dances”, displays and attacks on toys exhibited by solitary birds, and which are found amusing by those unfamiliar with parrot biology, are actually born of frustrated urges to mate and defend a territory.  Several parrot interest groups have now published position statements to the effect that housing a parrot alone is, in most cases, considered by the group to be animal abuse.

Filling in for a Missing Mate

I advised the afore-mentioned budgie owner that while the bird may indeed form a strong bond with her if kept alone.  However there would be no way to predict such, as her pet had already been housed with another bird (this will affect its reaction to being kept alone). 

But above all, the most important consideration to bear in mind is that spending a few hours each day with a budgie would not be adequate; parrots kept alone need the near constant companionship of a person if that person is to be considered a “substitute” for the missing mate.  This is difficult to arrange for most people.

Further Reading

Parrots that bond with people may make wonderful pets but sometimes raise a host of unexpected problems.  For more information, please see another article I have written, Parrot Bonding: Positive and Negative Aspects.

Please write in with your questions and comments.
 
Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Aviculturists are fortunate in having available a great many bird interest groups….following are several that I’ve found to be particularly worthwhile.  Note: the websites are listed alphabetically, not in order of preference.

The Avicultural Society of America

I first began reading the ASA’s wonderful journal, The Avicultural Bulletin, while working at the Bronx Zoo’s Ornithology Department.  I found it to be of far more practical value than many zoo-based publications, and it remains so.

Founded in 1927, the ASA fulfills all aspects of its stated mission – “breeding, conservation, research, education” – admirably.  The website’s “Legislative Alert” function is invaluable to those seeking information on laws affecting captive and wild birds.

The Avicultural Society of Australia 

This organization’s fine journal, Australian Aviculture, should be the first stop for those interested in the care and conservation of Australian birds.  The journal also addresses non-native species and the articles, some of which are posted online, are always outstanding in quality.

Two unique endeavors sponsored by the society, and which I believe should receive greater attention from other groups, are organized aviary visits and workshops for neophyte bird-keepers.

Birds N Ways

It’s difficult to adequately describe all of the resources available on this massive website…you’ll find what you need here, no doubt! 

I’m most impressed by the range of topics addressed by the thousands of posted articles.  Parrots take center stage, and the diversity of species covered is truly exceptional, but finch and general interest (disease, training, legislation, conservation) articles are available as well.  Recipe exchanges, an array of topic-specific chats and periodic special interest updates add to this amazing site’s value…stop by and see what I mean.

Long Island Parrot Society

I’m glad that I live in the area served by the LIPS – I recently attended their wonderful annual expo, and hope to speak at a monthly meeting soon.  The group does a great job of fulfilling their mission of improving life for captive parrots and survival prospects for wild ones, and offers much-needed bereavement, pet-sitting and adoption services.  Experienced members answer questions on line, and all enjoy learning which pet has been highlighted as “Bird of the Month”. 

LIPS is in the process of establishing a facility that will serve as a parrot museum, shelter and education center.  Those wishing to assist in this laudable effort can, with a $50 donation, have an inscribed brick added to the facility’s walkway or a wall.

Real Macaw Parrot Club

This fine New Jersey based organization welcomes those who keep parrots of any species, and places husbandry-oriented education as a top priority.  This admirable goal is supported by the outstanding veterinarians, zoo aviculturists and other speakers featured at monthly meetings.  Fund raising to support avian medical and conservation-oriented research is also undertaken.

I’m particularly impressed by the group’s founding of a consortium that monitors bird-oriented legislation…their efforts in this area should serve as an example to bird clubs everywhere.

Waxbill Finch Society

WFS is an invaluable resource for those interested in the husbandry of waxbills, munias and other Asian and African finches of the family Estrildidae.  Focus on this one bird family has resulted in a body of information that is second to none.  The posted care sheets, and the articles published in The Waxbill, are extremely well-written and informative.

The member’s breeding records and breeding history charts, posted on the website, impressed me as being most interesting and valuable features.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Sun Conure image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Mphung
Crimson Sunbird image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Sabine's Sunbird
Scalybreasted Munia image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by J.M.Garg

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Parrots that pair up well, mate, hatch eggs and feed their chicks are every bird-breeders dream.  However, some such birds present us with a frustrating situation - just as the chicks begin to grow feathers, one or both of the otherwise doting parents begin to pluck at their chicks’ feathers.  Bleeding and skin bruising follow, and, while the chicks usually recover, they are often left high-strung and nervous.  Chicks housed in outdoor aviaries may suffer from exposure and chilling as well.

The Scenario

Chick-plucking is most commonly observed among peach-faced lovebirds, budgerigars and cockatiels (particularly lutino cockatiels).  Attacks on the plumage usually commence when the feathers first emerge from the skin, and may continue until the time they unfurl.  Oddly, the erring adults continue to feed their offspring throughout, and remain good parents once the plucking ceases.

Unfortunately, chick-plucking parents usually do not change, and subsequent offspring are usually attacked as well; there is also evidence that chicks born to “plucking parents” repeat the cycle when they mature and reproduce.

A Theory

The most likely explanation for this perplexing behavior is that it results from frustrated attempts by the parents to preen the emerging feathers.  Unable to perform this task properly on the thin, unfurled plumage, the anxious parents begin pulling at the feathers.  The fact that most attacks are confined to the chicks’ napes and upper wings – areas not reachable by the chicks and usually attended to by the parents, lends support to this theory.

Thwarting Attacks

Bitter Apple Spray is often successful in deterring plumage attacks, but is best applied before plucking begins.  If the chick's skin is broken, consult your veterinarian before applying Bitter Apple or similar products.

Further Reading

Captive breeding, while immensely rewarding, is not without its problems.  To read about other potential concerns, please see my article Spring’s Affect on Cage Birds.

 Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Lovebird with newborn chicks image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio
Whitefaced lutino Cockatiel Chick image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Magnus Manske

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Recently, a bird owner confided to me that, although pets were prohibited in her tiny Manhattan apartment, she was able to keep an English budgerigar because it was very quiet and also a good deal less active than the American budgies which she had kept.  Thinking back, I realized that English budgerigars, which are actually the same species -  Melopsittacus undulatus - as the “parakeet” typically sold in American pet stores, have also impressed me as being somewhat reserved in nature.  Perhaps they are ideal for those of you who need to keep birds surreptitiously?

Appearance and Exhibition Standards

English Budgerigars, or budgies, are sometimes referred to as “show or exhibition budgerigars”.  They are stouter than the “American Budgerigar”, which is also known by the common name of “parakeet”.  Both are larger than wild budgerigars – twice as large in the case of the English race.

English Budgerigars have long been bred as show birds, with strict standards governing their colors, plumage type, and body plan.  Their faces and breasts are more thickly feathered than the typical American Budgie…some individuals sport feathers that nearly obscure the eyes and beak.  The actual size of the head, in relation to the body, is also greater than in the American race. 

Over thirty primary, and hundreds of secondary, color mutations are recognized, with individual colors often being brighter and somehow more clearly defined than those of their American counterparts.

Personality and Vocabulary

Behavior varies greatly from bird to bird, but overall English budgies are quite calm in nature, with even parent-raised individuals being relatively easy to tame. 

Many, but not all, are also on the quiet side, but they retain wonderful mimicry abilities.  Like American Budgies, English birds can amass huge vocabularies, a skill that is sometimes not fully appreciated due to their low, subdued voices.  However, aviculturists rank budgerigars alongside African Grays, Amazons, Eclectus Parrots and other gifted mimics.  In fact, a budgerigar holds the record for the largest bird vocabulary known – over 1,700 words! 

Keeping English Budgies

In common with all parrots, English Budgies do best in pairs or well-planned groups.  All-male groups, or several pairs, often work out well, but females can be quite vicious towards one another.  English Budgerigars have the reputation of being somewhat short lived – 7 to 10 years as opposed to the American Budgerigar’s lifespan of 12 to nearly 20 years - but there have been notable exceptions.

English Budgerigars are not all that common in the USA, and will more usually be available through private breeders as opposed to pet stores.  However, the search is well worthwhile – their plumage imparts a very comical look to the face (some find them to resemble minute old men!), and, if noise and space is a concern, they may well be the best parrot option available.

Further Reading

Please see my article The Captive Care and Natural History of Budgerigars  for further information.

The Great Lakes Budgie Society posts English Budgie show standards and results here.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Budgerigar Head Detail image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Kirk

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Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Today we’ll take a look at some of the finer points (as opposed to the basics) involved in feeding canaries, doves, budgerigars, toucans and related birds. Please see Part I and Part II of this article for information on African Gray and Amazon Parrots, Mynas and Macaws.

Finches

The perception of finches as “seed-eaters” is at the root of poor feeding practices in captivity.  Wild finches eat a wide range of foods…in most habitats, plants produce seeds only at certain times, not year-round.  Outside of these times, birds must rely upon sprouts, insects and other foods.

Depending upon the species, pet finches should be offered a variety of live and canned insects, fruit, sprouts, egg food, pellets and finely chopped greens (endive, kale, escarole, etc.) on a daily basis.

Canaries

The points mentioned above apply also to that most popular of all finches, the Canary.

Red factor canaries (those with red-tinged feathers) present a special challenge.  Interestingly, these birds are not true canaries but rather hybrids that arose when aviculturists crossed canaries with a finch known as the Venezuelan Black-hooded Red Siskin.  The amount of red they exhibit is, therefore, influenced by genetics.  However, color-promoting foods will help in maintaining red plumage.

Budgerigars (Parakeets) and Cockatiels

These small parrots are prone to obesity and fatty liver disease when fed seed-only diets, especially if they select only a few favored types of seeds.  Budgerigars in particular are extremely stubborn when it comes to accepting pellets. 

You might try offering pellets in the morning, when the birds are very hungry, and withholding seed until late afternoon.  Lafeber Nutri-berries combine pellets with seeds and other tasty foods, and are an excellent way of weaning all types of parrots onto a healthier diet.  Groups of budgerigars are more likely to try pellets than are individual birds – like children, they seem spurred to see what they are missing if one individual samples a new food!

Pigeons and Doves

Much like finches, pigeons and doves are often fed seeds and little else in captivity.  In actuality, however, most take a wide variety of foods in the wild.  Depending upon the species, pigeons and doves should be provided with pellets, whole wheat bread, chopped kale and other greens and fruit.  Freeze dried fruits are very useful for those keeping fruit doves and tropical species such as the Bleeding Heart Pigeon. 

Pigeons and doves are prone to calcium deficiencies in captivity...calcium enriched grit or crumbled oyster and egg shell should always be available.  Birds with chicks require additional protein…nearly all accept egg food and some will take live and canned insects as well.

Toucans and Toucanets

Dietary variety is the key to keeping these entertaining beauties in peak condition.  Care must also be taken that they do not select only a few favored fruits from their daily salad.

In addition to a nutritious softbill pellet, toucans and related birds should be fed a wide variety of fresh and freeze dried fruits, chopped vegetables (i.e. carrots, swiss chard, kale,), live and canned insects and an occasional pink mouse.

Toucans and toucanets are prone to Hemochromatosis, or iron-storage disease.  Please see the article referenced below for further information.

Further Reading

A diet high in citrus fruit may be problematical for some species.  Please see my article Iron Storage Disease for more information.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

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