That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

The culture of live algae and plants in brackish aquariums has not been given much attention, and few plants native to estuaries and similar environments are commercially available.  However, as with fresh water tanks, live plants add a whole new dimension to aquarium-keeping, and are extremely interesting in their own right.

In brackish exhibits at the Bronx Zoo and in my own tanks, I have experimented with several varieties of algae and plants.  In addition to mangroves, Java ferns and other such estuarine-adapted species, a surprising number of plants and algae that are typically thought of as either “marine” or “fresh water” can be acclimated to brackish environments.  Following are a few of my favorites.

Acclimatization

Plants and algae should be introduced carefully to a brackish water aquarium…treat them as you would a fish or invertebrate.  Particularly as concerns fresh-water plants, sudden changes in pH can wreck havoc with osmotic pressure, causing cell rupture and the death of the specimen.

Marine Algae

Marine algae are commonly referred to as “seaweeds”, but they are in actuality not true plants.  Single or multi-celled, algae lack roots, stems and leaves, but have evolved equivalent structures. For example, holdfasts act as roots in anchoring them to the substrate, but do not absorb nutrients…that role is taken on by the leaf-like portions of the organism.

Caulerpa prolifera

This is the most commonly-available marine algae.  It ranges from Florida and the Caribbean southward, and is commercially cultivated.  Caulerpa spreads via rhizomes, or runners, and, although a true marine algae, it adjusts well to brackish environments.

Like all algae, Caulerpa may leak fluids when pruned, so be sure to clip only a tiny amount at a time if trimming is necessary.  Related species, with rounded, pointed or fern-like shapes, are sometimes seen in the trade.

Other Types of Marine Algae

A number of other types of marine algae are sometimes available.  While not as well-suited to a brackish water existence as Caulerpa, several will adjust if care is taken in the acclimatization process.

I and colleagues have had varying degrees of success with sea cactus (Udotea flabellum), Codiacea spp., mermaid’s cup (Acetabularia spp.), mermaid’s shaving brush (Penicillus capitatus) and several types of red algae.

Brackish Water Plants

Java Fern, Microsorium pteropus

To my knowledge, the Java fern is the only true brackish water aquatic plant that is regularly available to aquarists.  In well-lit tanks it will proliferate rapidly.  A number of fishes favor Java fern leaves as food, but its rapid growth rate can accommodate this in many cases.

Red Mangrove Seedlings, Rhizophora mangle

Mangrove seedlings, or propagules, are semi-aquatic, with the roots usually submerged and the plant itself growing above water.  The red mangrove is often sold in the trade and is commercially propagated in Florida, where it also occurs naturally.  Red mangroves are extremely wide-ranging, being found along coastlines in many of the world’s tropical and subtropical regions.  At home in estuaries, salt marshes and along river mouths, they are adapted to fluctuating salinity levels, and fare well in brackish water aquariums.

Mangroves can be planted in mud or wedged into limestone, and, because of their semi-terrestrial nature, are best kept in aquariums housing mudskippers, fiddler crabs and other creatures that utilize both land and water areas.  They excrete salt on the surface of their leaves…this should be washed away with fresh water every few days.

Mangroves often grow slowly in the aquarium, and stay at a manageable size for some time.  There are a few techniques for dealing with tall plants…please write in if you would like further information.

Eelgrass, Zostera marina

Eelgrass is one of the only true plants to live an aquatic existence in marine environments.  It is not commonly kept in aquariums.  I have had mixed success with it, but have observed healthy stands in commercial aquariums (if you are interested in this plant, please write in and I’ll make some inquiries to public aquarium contacts).

Eelgrass populations have plummeted in the northeastern USA and elsewhere, and I encourage those with an interest to work with this plant (please note that collection is prohibited in California and elsewhere).  An incredible assortment of unique fishes and invertebrates, such as pipefishes, dwarf seahorses and eelgrass-shaped amphipods, are always found in association with eelgrass beds.

I commonly observe eelgrass in estuaries, lagoons and other brackish habitats, and it thrives in true marine water as well.

Next time I’ll discuss some of the many fresh water plants that can be acclimated to brackish conditions.  Please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Brackish environments are home to many fascinating fishes and invertebrates that do well in aquariums.  Please see my article on Mudskippers  for a look at one of the most unusual.

Brandon here. If you’re like me and want to get the best growth and color out of your planted aquarium, you’ll probably want to add CO2 to your tank at some point.  The addition of CO2, in conjunction with adequate lighting, will greatly increase the rate of growth of your aquatic plants and is almost a necessity for certain hard to keep species.  Here at That Fish Place we carry a number of supplies for dosing your aquarium with CO2.

The first CO2 additive that I used on my planted 20 gallon was the Turbo CO2 Bio System by Red Sea.  This system is relatively inexpensive and fairly simple to use.  It works by attaching the reaction chamber to airline tubing which runs into a small powerhead.  A mixture of yeast and sugar inside the reaction chamber produces CO2 and usually lasts four or five weeks.  The downfall to this system is that the CO2 generated cannot be regulated and the duration of the mixture is usually inconsistant.

Once I upgraded to my 55 gallon aquarium, I decided I should upgrade my CO2 system as well.  To save money, I bought a 20 oz paintball tank instead of a larger tank similar to the ones we use in the fishroom.  To diffuse the CO2, I purchased a Maxi-Jet 400, attaching the airline to the venturi.  This actually diffuses the CO2 very well.  To regulate the CO2 coming out of the tank, I bought the CO2 regulator by TAAM.  The regulator comes with a needle valve for adjusting the amount of CO2 released into the tank and a solenoid so I can control when the unit operates by attaching it to the same timer as my lighting system.

My plants have never been healthier since I began CO2 additions.  I have several different species that have grown almost too large and need constant pruning, such as my watersprite, bacopa, and bronze wendtii.  If you decide to run CO2 on your aquarium, be aware of several complications you may run into:

CO2 will displace oxygen in the water.  If you add too much, your fish may suffer.

A high degree of surface agitation will drive the CO2 out of the water and make the addition of CO2 worthless.

CO2 will also lower the pH of the water.  Be sure your carbonate hardness is within the proper range (3-8 dkH).

CO2 will increase the rate of growth of your plants when used with adequate aquarium lighting.  Fast growing plants will deplete trace minerals in the water (iron, potassium, calcium, manganese). Plants that are deficient in these minerals tend to have health issues and even die.  Be sure to test your water and dose with trace minerals accordingly for the best growth.

Hope this helps,

Until next time,

Brandon

Until next time,

Brandon

Brandon here. Now that pond season is over, lots of aquarists are looking for the opportunity for those aquatic green thumbs to keep busy all winter long. Much of the time planted set-ups are overlooked for the more elaborate (and more expensive) saltwater reef tanks. I personally find a lot of enjoyment in keeping my favorite aquatic plants indoors where I can view them all year long.
This may be old news for some of you, but last month the winners of the 2008 ADA (Aqua Design Amano Co) Aquascaping Contest were announced. These are some serious planted tank people! The tanks are well laid out and must have taken countless hours of planning, planting, and trimming. My personal favorites are second, fourth, and ninth place. Maybe someday I’ll have the time and patience to make my tank look like one of these!
Pictures of the top ten can be viewed at Aquatic Eden, a blog about the planted aquarium. You can also see the top twenty-seven layouts at Aquatic Plant Central, a forum for the planted tank enthusiast. They’re some amazing tanks, so if you have a moment, take a look!http://www.aquatic-eden.com/
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/aquascaping/55958-2008-ada-layout-contest-top-27-a.html

Click here to read the first part of this article: A Natural Aquarium: Supplies and Care for the Planted Aquarium – Part 1

Filtration
Filtration on a planted tank can be minimal, and some experienced Aquatic gardeners even keep them without filtration, but for beginners it’s always good to have a safety net. A submersible or canister filter will be ideal to minimize surface CO2 displacement. Even a simple power filter will work, but the likelihood that you’ll need supplemental CO2 will be increased. Do not use under gravel filtration.

Substrates
There are lots of substrates that will be suitable for a planted aquarium. Fluorite, being one of the first iron-enhanced, porous clay, plant-specific substrates has these benefits as well as an rather fine grade for good root development. I would say any fine grade, smooth freshwater substrate will do , even mixed with sand to make a finer mix. Substrate is mostly a matter of taste, though roots are delicate and prefer a smoother denser base. Make the gravel bed at least 3-4″ deep.

Temperature
Most plants can tolerate a pretty wide temperature range, but be sure to look at the specific needs of the plants you want to keep to make sure they don’t prefer temps that you won’t be able to maintain. You’ll want to keep the temperature of the tank regulated more for the fish than for the plants, but some species may not thrive in that ideal range. Average temps that keep tropical fish happy will also keep a slew of aquarium plants happy. Do avoid extreme changes in temperature, like strong drafts from windows and doors. Keep the tank in a temperature stable area, and keep an appropriately sized aquarium heater to regulate the temperature, keeping it in the ideal range.

Furniture
How you decorate a planted tank is entirely up to you. I prefer the natural look, devoid of plastic bridges and castles, but a good piece of gnarly driftwood and a couple of interesting rocks are always welcome. You don’t have to add any embellishments if you don’t want to, but they do add more cover for fish and a focal point in the garden so to speak. Rocks and wood are also useful in terracing. Do be aware before adding any rock in particular as some types of rock and ornamentation may significantly alter PH and other aspects of the chemistry. Beginners may also want to avoid collecting from sources other than aquarium stores and stick to items designed for aquariums to avoid contamination from outside sources.

Fertilizers
Though many of the necessary nutrients for plants will be provided by the fish and feeding, a heavily planted tank will inevitably need some supplemental fertilizer for continued growth and vigor. Products that provide iron in particular are important, with several other micro-nutrients following closely behind. Some plants may need even more nutrients or root tab fertilizer, but keep a broad range fertilizer on hand to start for regular dosing. CO2 injection is a little more complicated and may not be essential initially. Supplemental CO2 will come into play especially when the system is established and the plants really get going and will probably be necessary once the demand for CO2 from the plants increases. You may want to consider how you’ll provide supplemental CO2 early on if not right away at set-up. For a really impressive set-up and robust and lush growth, it should be included in your plan by any means. You can invest in manufactured regulated injection systems, or with a little research, you can do-it-yourself, but that all depends on you and the needs of your tank.

Reap the Rewards
So, you’re all set-up and ready to add all the fun stuff. The principles of set-up are basically the same as any other tank. Start out slow with hardy species, be patient with the progress and the growth, be diligent with maintenance, and keep track of what is working and not working, and you’ll be on the road to success. Plan ahead so you know what you want to add, when and where you want to add it, and always be aware of chemistry and how both the plants and the fish are reacting to any me additions.
Once the tank has become established, and if you’ve taken the process step by step, the maintenance should be pretty minimal, and the results greatly rewarding. A daily feeding and glance over your equipment each day, routine weekly water quality maintenance, periodic trimming and pruning, and annual bulb replacement will leave you in awe of your investment.
This article is by no means as comprehensive as it could be on the subject. There are without a doubt innumerable other literature, articles, blogs, forums and websites entirely dedicated to this corner of the aquarium hobby, and I encourage anyone reading this to explore the topic in depth. I want to spark your interest because I think there is nothing more beautiful than a natural, lush green planted slice of aquarium, and I hope that you’re inspired to create your own. Whether you choose a fantasy or a true to nature biotrope, dream of making anyone who sees your tank green with envy, or keep it your personal treasure, give it a shot; you won’t regret it.

Patty

Going Green
Patty here. In today’s world, where we’re increasingly buying green, thinking green and living green, a green, lush planted aquarium may be just the thing to give a little perspective. Planted aquariums can be quite rewarding, a relaxing indoor view to the serene underwater world. Now, facing the doldrums of the upcoming winter season it may be the perfect time to create a tropical getaway in your living room. A beautiful green planted paradise can give the room an ethereal and comforting glow, just the aesthetic therapy to ward off cabin fever till spring.

Your pleasures aside, a planted aquarium has tons of benefits for the fish that reside in the tank too! I’ve always thought that a thriving planted aquarium makes for happier, healthier fish. A successful planted tank gives fish and inverts an environment close to nature, with more natural processes maintaining key aspects that keep the fish in good health.

To start with, live aquarium plants are a natural means of filtration. Non-planted tanks require powerful and efficient means of filtration, whether you prefer canister filters, power filters, undergravel or any other type, these filters and the bacteria they harbor are charged with the duty of removing and breaking down all of the crud produced by the fish and their keepers (usually by means of overfeeding or poor maintenance habits). Unfortunately, tanks and filters without regular maintenance may not be able to maintain the balance on their own. In a well-planted tank, the plants serve as chemical and biological filters, removing and processing many of the toxic components produced by decaying waste, and serving as colonizing surfaces for beneficial bacteria. All that is necessary is a simple mechanical filtration system with a bit of biological media as a back-up. No more chemical solutions to detoxify and neutralize all those nasty toxins! By the active processing of these leftover nutrients in the water, there is little left to benefit algae growth. A planted tank with balanced nutrient and light levels will need very infrequent algae maintenance needs if at all.

As in nature, plants produce oxygen through photosynthesis, so as long as your fish population isn’t too high, you shouldn’t need air stones or the pumps they require to complicate you set-up. One less thing to plug in and fiddle with and your fish will still have all the oxygen they need.

A jungle of aquatic vegetation provides necessary cover for fish that are accustomed to dense areas of freshwater waterways. Small and timid fish will benefit from the safety and security of lush live plants, and if you’re lucky enough to have fish spawn in the aquarium, the foliage is the perfect nursery for the little guys to find cover too. As a bonus, many fish will eat bits of algae and dead plant bits in the aquarium. For the most part this nibbling will benefit the fish and the plants, the fish varying their diet while allowing the healthy plant tissue to thrive. Of course, you’ll need to be choosy about the fish that you house in a planted tank, as some are strictly herbivores and may destroy and uproot plants.

I can’t really think of any way you can go wrong with a planted aquarium. By far, the benefits outweigh the few minor drawbacks. The maintenance will be about the same if not less than a fish only aquarium. The cost of set-up may be a little more expensive, but you’ll be rewarded once the tank is established, thriving and basically balancing itself and your fish will be very appreciative.

Ready to Garden?
When you’re ready to build your new set-up or upgrade your plastic paradise to something phenomenal, you’ll have to first consider the basics. First, take a look at the aquarium and associate yourself with what you have to start. What are the tank measurements, especially depth? What are the specs of your current lighting, heaters, and filtration? If you’re just starting out, you’ll just want to consider where your tank will be settled then make your shopping list. Your best bet is to start with a tank of at least 30 gallons, and not too tall (under 20″), for the best light penetration.
Once you’ve decided on the aquarium, you’ll want to look for suitable aquarium lighting. There are several aspects to consider here, including aesthetics, functionality and economics. There are many fixtures and lamps available in the market, and with a little research or help from an informed salesperson, you’ll be able to find lighting to suit your individual needs. Without exploring the technical complexities of lighting, you’ll basically need to be looking for lighting that will suit the biological needs of your plants, allowing them to photosynthesize efficiently, thus optimizing their health and growth. The quality of the light is vital. I would suggest that you forget about incandescent, halogen, halide, and skip right to full-spectrum fluorescent lighting. Full-spectrum and compact fluorescent lamps will provide the best quality lighting for a planted set-up and it is the most economical to run and replace, the biggest bang for your buck in the long run. Look for bulbs with full-spectrum bulbs with at least 5000K. You’ll have to consider the depth of your tank, the amount of surface agitation, and you may need to adjust the amount of light up or down depending on other aspects of your aquarium, but as a general rule of thumb, start with at least 2 watts of light energy produced per gallon. This amount may need to be doubled or more depending on various conditions and species of plants you want to keep.
You may also want to pick up a aquarium light timer for the light fixtures. This will allow you to maintain the necessary light-dark cycle. Set the timer for a 8-14 hour daylight period, depending on the lighting and plants you choose, and the lights will automatically turn on and off for the duration. Prolonged periods of dark or light will have a negative impact in aquatic plant life, more light is not necessarily beneficial, and prolonged dark cycles will be detrimental.

Check back on Friday for the conclusion of this article,

Until then,

Patty