That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

One of the most common questions we get is “How much does it cost to set up a tank?” This is also one of the most difficult questions for us to answer because there are so many options! Every piece of equipment – filters, lighting, heaters and more – has different varieties, options and price levels. Some may be more efficient than others and some may be more cost-effective. We are always happy to go over the options available to you and what we would recommend for any tank you are trying to create.

To give you a general idea of tank costs, we’ve gone through some of our store display tanks to give you an idea of how much the tanks you see would cost. This is only intended as a general example of the costs for different types of tanks. Keep in mind, these are our display tanks so most of them feature the Best Of The Best products we would recommend and some of the newest options available. These tanks are typically going to be more expensive than the average tank a hobbyist may set up. If you are on a budget, we can show you some lower cost options similar to those shown here.

These lists were created in late October 2020 and the availability and prices of these items are subject to change at any time. These lists are for equipment only for most tanks and do not include any livestock (fish, inverts, plants, or live rock) or decorations.

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From our largest displays to our smallest:

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220-gallon African Cichlid Tank

This tank contains Lake Malawi African cichlids. It is a freshwater tank with rocks and substrate chosen to maintain a high pH and water hardness.

	TOTAL:	$4,248.45	$3,700.85
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
268336 x2	Precision Submersible Heater – 400W – Up to 125gal (2 used)	$96.78	$87.98
242340 x3	Marineland C-530 Canister Filter – Up to 150 gal. (3 used)	$659.97	$599.97
243990	Monterey Aquarium Stand – 72 in. x 24 in. – Black	$1,341.99	$1,219.99
211776*	180 Gallon Aquarium – Black – 72 in. x 24 in. x 24 in.	$747.99	$679.99
213319 x250lb	Loose Rocks (Sold by 10th-lb, 250 lbs used)	$975.00	$725.00
268729 x4	Florida Crushed Coral – 40 lb. (4 bags used)	$153.96	$139.96
253894	Maxi-Jet 1200 Water Pump (295/1300 GPH)	$28.59	$25.99
277396 x2**	Aqueon OptiBright+ LED Light Fixture – 18-24 in. (2 used)	$153.98	$139.98
211863	Marineland Perfecto Glass Canopy 72 in. x 24 in.	$90.19	$81.99
*The 220-gallon tank is no longer manufacturer. The 180-gallon has the same footprint and is the largest tank made by this supplier at this time.
**The lights currently on this tank have been discontinued. This is a comparable fixture.

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100-gallon Neptune Apex Reef Tank

This tank is designed as a high-end reef tank for SPS and LPS corals. It features the latest in automation and filtration with WIFI controls.This setup isn’t for the budget-conscious. The equipment on this tank is The Best Of The Best and the latest, most hi-tech to hit the market to date.

	TOTAL:	$8,381.70	$7,726.90
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
282686	Innovative Marine INT 100 Gallon	$1,430.00	$1,300.00
279255	Innovative Marine APS Stand for 80/100	$769.99	$699.99
278295	Innovative Marine Hydrofil Ti-Reservoir	$109.99	$99.99
278294	Innovative Marine Hydrofil Ti-Pump	$76.99	$69.99
278293	Innovative Marine Hydrofil Ti-Controller	$76.99	$69.99
281692	Innovative Marine Hydrofil Ti-Return Bracket	$25.29	$22.99
267978	Trigger Ruby 36 Sump	$384.99	$349.99
248866	Reef Octopus 200 Internal Protein Skimmer	$395.99	$359.99
275933	Ecotech Radion XR30 Pro LED	$923.99	$839.99
267881	Ecotech XR30 Tank Mount	$114.99	$103.99
268606	Ecotech MP40 Vortech	$403.99	$366.99
249321	Ecotech Battery Backup	$173.25	$173.25
280134	Neptune Apex System EB832	$839.99	$799.99
280146	Neptune Auto Feeder	$104.99	$99.99
280143	Neptune Wireless Expansion Module	$132.99	$124.99
280135	Neptune DOS/DRR Kit	$469.99	$449.99
280141	Neptune Flow Monitoring Kit	$209.99	$199.99
280136	Neptune Par Monitoring Kit	$314.99	$299.99
280139	Neptune Wave Pump	$192.99	$174.99
280142	Neptune Leak Detection Kit	$159.99	$149.99
281546	Neptune COR20 Return Pump	$359.99	$324.99
284268	Neptune Trident Water Analyzer	$659.95	$599.95
285114	Eshopps Bio-Lux Ceramic Media	$49.39	$44.89

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120-gallon Reef Tank

This long-established reef tank at the front of our store has mostly LPS and soft corals with fish and inverts.

	TOTAL:	$2,609.11	$2,371.90
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
211805	120 Gallon with 1 Corner-Flo – Black – 48 in. x 24 in. x 24	$549.99	$499.99
211814	Pine Majesty Stand – Black – 48 in. x 24 in.	$296.99	$269.99
268336	Marineland Precision Submersible Heater – 400W – Up to 125 gal.	$48.40	$43.99
286756 x2	Hydra 32HD Light Fixture – Black (2 used)	$807.38	$733.98
278399 x2	Aqua Illumination Single Arm Mounting Kit for Hydra 26/52 (2 used)	$169.38	$153.98
247676	Crystal 30 Sump – 30 in. x 12 in. x 15 in.	$296.99	$269.99
284342	EcoTech Marine – Vectra S2 Centrifugal Pump – 1,400 gph	$329.99	$299.99
198276*	Instant Ocean SeaClone Protein Skimmer 150 – up to 150 gal.	$109.99	$99.99
	Various plumbing parts
*Protein skimmer currently on this tank has been discontinued. This is a comparable piece.

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72-gallon Bowfront Planted Community

This freshwater tank has live plants and tropical community fish including barbs, rainbows, dwarf cichlids and other fish.

	TOTAL:	$1,235.23	$1,102.68
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
277936	Aqueon 72g Bowfront Aquarium	$280.49	$254.99
277937	Aqueon 72g Bowfront Cabinet Stand	$417.99	$379.99
281583	Aqueon Heater Pro Series V2 – 300W	$43.99	$39.99
282941 x2	Finnex 24/7 Planted + Color Changing LED Fixture – 48 in. (2 used)	$314.58	$285.98
279832	Aqueon Quietflow Canister Filter – 55 – 100 Gal	$148.49	$114.74
250660	Pico Evo-Mag Circulation Pump – 4W – 180 gph	$29.69	$26.99

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60-gallon Cube Planted Tank

This freshwater tank is heavily planted to feature the plants with some community schooling fish, shrimp and inverts.

	TOTAL:	$1,537.35	$1,397.45
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
262396	Marineland 60 Gallon Cube Frameless Aquarium*	$274.99	$249.99
245164	Cube-Sized Aquarium Stand – 24 in. x 24 in. – Ventura – Black	$241.99	$219.99
249512	Jager Aquarium Heater – 200W – 15 in – 79-106 Gallons	$35.19	$31.99
203870 x4	Eco-Complete Planted Aquarium Substrate – 20 lb. (4 bags used)	$118.76	$107.96
287694	Radion XR15 Pro G5 LED Light Fixture	$461.99	$419.99
271436	Marineland Magniflow Canister Filter 360	$160.59	$145.99
205404 x2	Oceanvisions Background – Crystal Black – 23″ (2 used)	$10.98	$9.98
283251	Milwaukee Instruments Inc. – PH Controller	$131.99	$119.99
271415	UFO CO2 Diffuser	$12.19	$10.99
212406	Silicone Airline Tubing – 8 ft.	$3.99	$3.59
283253	Milwaukee Instruments Inc. – C02 Regulator	$84.69	$76.99
*Discontinued. A similar model is available with corner overflows (see 60-gallon Seahorse Cube).

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60-gallon Cube Seahorse Tank

This saltwater tank is the same style as the planted tank above but with a corner overflow connected to a sump filter under the tank. It contains soft corals and a group of Lined Seahorses (Hippocampus erectus).

	TOTAL:	$2,199.36	$2,000.06
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
262398	Marineland 60 Gal Cube Frameless Aquarium Corner Flo-in back	$439.99	$399.99
245164	Cube-Sized Aquarium Stand – 24 in. x 24 in. – Ventura – Black	$241.99	$219.99
281582	AqueonHeater Pro Series V2 – 200W	$41.79	$37.99
212355	Floating Thermometer – Economy	$3.69	$3.29
287695	EcoTech Marine Radion XR30 Pro G5 LED Light Fixture	$923.99	$839.99
256403	Ecotech Radion Hanging Kit	$52.79	$47.99
268975	Eshopps The Cube R-Nano Refugium	$284.99	$259.99
206397	Supreme Aqua-Mag 700 Water Pump with 10 ft. Cord	$93.49	$84.99
278293	IM AUQA – Hydrofill Ti – Controller	$76.99	$69.99
204181 x3	Flexible Tubing – Clear – 3/8 in. (Sold per foot, 3 feet used)	$4.47	$3.87
288543	Seapora Aquarium – 5.5 gal	$17.59	$15.99
265344	Aquatop Nano Water Pump – 7W – 118 gph	$17.59	$15.99
	Various plumbing parts

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32-gallon Reef BioCube

The BioCube system has integrated filtration built into the back of the tank. This BioCube is a reef tank featuring LPS and soft corals.

	TOTAL:	$703.96	$639.96
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
276561	BioCube LED Aquarium – 32 gallon	$428.99	$389.99
280207	Aquarium Stand for BioCube 29/32 – Black	$219.99	$199.99
268332	Marineland Precision Submersible Heater – 150W – Up to 40 gal.	$25.29	$22.99
250660	Pico Evo-Mag Circulation Pump – 4W – 180 gph	$29.69	$26.99

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25-gallon Frameless Cube Reef Tank

This reef tank is set up to feature an Eshopps Refugium and Sump but a more decorative stand is available and is priced here.

	TOTAL:	$1,140.74	$1,037.94
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
262311	Marineland 25 Cube Frameless Aquarium	$153.99	$139.99
245163*	Cube-Sized Aquarium Stand – 18 in. x 18 in. – Ventura – Black	$197.99	$179.99
268332	Marineland Precision Submersible Heater – 150W – Up to 40 gal.	$25.29	$22.99
268975	Eshopps The Cube R-Nano Refugium	$284.99	$259.99
206452	Supreme Aqua-Mag 500 Water Pump with 10 ft. Cord	$82.49	$74.99
279548	Eshopps X-160 Mid-Level Line Protein Skimmer – 100-225 gal	$395.99	$359.99
	Various plumbing parts
*This tank is not on a traditional stand in our store. This is a compatible stand for this tank.

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10-gallon GloFish Community

This GloFish kit contains the lighting and filtration needed for the popular GloFish that “glow” under blue actinic lighting. While on a counter in our Fish Room, stands are available for this basic 10-gallon size. This is a good beginner tank setup and similar kits are available without the GloFish options.

	TOTAL:	$196.87	$178.97
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
259867*	GloFish Aquarium Kit – 10 Gallon	$81.39	$73.99
268816	Tetra HT30 Submersible Heater – 100 Watts	$16.49	$14.99
212160**	Pine Wood Majesty Stand – Black – 20 in.	$98.99	$89.99
*includes filtration, lighting, tank.
**This tank is not on a stand in our store. This is an appropriate stand for this tank size.

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9-gallon Fluval Flex

This desktop aquarium is aquascaped into a bonsai garden setting wit freshwater shrimp, snails and gobies. The filtration and lighting are integrated into the tank.

	TOTAL:	$148.26	$134.76
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
260291	Fluval Spec V Aquarium Kit – 5 gal. – Black	$98.99	$89.99
268816	Tetra HT30 Submersible Heater – 100 Watts	$16.49	$14.99
268713	Estes Aqua Sand – White – 5 lb.	$5.29	$4.79
288182	Dragon Bonsai Tree – Small	$27.49	$24.99

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8.75-gallon Shrimp Tank

This tank from Aqueon is one of the most uniquely-shaped tanks available and has integrated filtration. While not on a stand in our store, it will fit onto a standard 20-inch-wide stand. The aquarium kit includes filtration, special shrimp substrate, and lgihting in addition to the tank itself.

	TOTAL:	$233.77	$212.47
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
282534*	Aqueon – LED Shrimp Aquarium Kit – 8.75 Gal	$109.99	$99.99
279878	Aqueon Submersible Glass Heater – 50W-Up to 20 Gal	$24.79	$22.49
212160**	Pine Wood Majesty Stand – Black – 20 in.	$98.99	$89.99
*includes filtration, substrate, lighting, tank.
**This tank is not on a stand in our store. This is an appropriate stand for this tank size.

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5-gallon Fluval Spec V Nano-reef

This Fluval Spec V tank is set up as a nano-reef – a challenging system for advanced reefkeepers – but the Spec V kit can be used for freshwater aquariums as well.

	TOTAL:	$217.77	$197.97
Item #	Product	Non-Loyalty Price	Loyalty Price
260291	Fluval Spec V Aquarium Kit – 5 gal. – Black	$98.99	$89.99
283274	Marine+ 24/7 SE Automated LED – 20 in	$85.79	$77.99
248234	Koralia Nano 240 – 240 gph – 3.5W	$32.99	$29.99

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Daunted by these costs? Don’t be!

As we mentioned, there are a lot of options that can be customized. Kits are also often available that can help you bundle the equipment you need to make it easier to purchase, especially for smaller sizes below around 55-gallons. You can start out higher end or start basic and upgrade as your skill level and interests grow!

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Hopefully, these aquarium setups will help give you an idea of the investment needed for a variety of types and sizes of aquariums. Many of the options for each tank can be swapped out depending on your needs and budget, and our associates are always available to assist you in making the best choices to make your vision a reality!

Choosing an Aquarium Filter. Where do we start? The modern aquarium hobby is full of a variety of options claiming to keep your aquarium cleaner easier, cheaper and more effectively than the next. Like any technology, weeding through what you need and don’t need can be a difficult task. Which is why the experts at That Fish Blog got together to create a complete guide on how to to choose the right aquarium filter for your tank and your situation.

 

Grading Scale

Below, we will go into the the types of aquarium filters and highlight some of the main points about each type.  We will grade each type on 6 factors independently.

Ease of Installation – Let’s face it – some filters can be a pain to install. Some of the more complex versions may require purchasing a drilled aquarium or a separate pump to sustain it.

Cost – Cost includes not only the price to purchase the filter, but the cost associated with installing it on your tank.

Upkeep – Some filters are basically set it and forget it – others require additional expense or maintenance along the way.

Space Requirements – Not everyone has room for a big filter in their setup. This category ranks not only how easy it is to fit under or on your aquarium, but also inside. I don’t know about you, but I don’t like to stare at aquarium equipment when I’m trying to check out my Tropheus

Biological Effectiveness – How well do these filters maintain effective biological filtration? Biological filtration is the most important aspect of aquarium filtration so this matters a great deal.

Chemical Effectiveness – Does the filter offer a level of chemical filtration – and how good is it?

Mechanical Effectiveness – Does the filter offer a level of mechanical filtration – and how good is it?

Noise – Noise can be a real concern for some aquarists and some filters are definitely louder than others.

 

 

Sponge Aquarium Filters

A sponge filter is one of the simplest aquarium filters available. They rate high for ease of installation, but are pretty limited in their effectiveness in all areas of aquarium filtration. They work with aquarium air pumps too – so you’ll have to purchase one of those. Most aquarists use them exclusively as add-on filtration or in small tanks like quarantine setups or transport tanks. They’re basically bacterial beds – their ability to filter mechanically and chemically is, for the most part, non-existent on most models.

Ease of Installation – Easy

Cost – Low

Upkeep – Low to Medium

Space Requirements – Low

Biological Effectiveness – Medium

Chemical Effectiveness – Low to Medium

Mechanical Effectiveness – Low to Medium

Noise – Medium

 

Undergravel Aquarium Filters

Undergravel Filters are a tried and true way of providing aquarium filtration to most size aquariums. They work by providing a gap between substrate and aquarium where beneficial bacteria can grow and thrive – providing consistent biological filtration to your tank. They are controversial however due to the risks associated with large scale biological breakdown underneath the plates. They also require the use of an aquarium air pump or powerhead to keep things flowing correctly and oxygen moving. They’re also pretty much a pain in the neck if you try to install them in an already-established aquarium due to the fact that you have to actually remove the gravel before installation. Given their limited filtration options, most aquarists tend to use them in conjunction with a power filter, canister filter or internal filter to supplement their biological filtration.

Ease of Installation – Easy

Cost – Low to Medium

Upkeep – Low to Medium

Space Requirements – Low

Biological Effectiveness – High

Chemical Effectiveness – Low to Medium

Mechanical Effectiveness – Low

Noise – Medium

 

Internal Aquarium Filters

Also called ‘In-Tank Filters’, these filters typically feature a motor to go along with fairly basic mechanical, biological and chemical filtration options. A favorite of tanks with low water levels and terrariums, these filters can be placed directly inside your tank and offer a higher level of 3-stage filtration than most of the options above. Aesthetically, they don’t blend in the way an Undergravel Filter does, but they still typically have a lower profile in your setup.

Ease of Installation – Easy

Cost – Low to Medium

Upkeep – Medium

Space Requirements – Medium

Biological Effectiveness – Medium

Chemical Effectiveness – Medium

Mechanical Effectiveness – Medium

Noise – Low to Medium

 

Power Filters

If there is a ‘traditional’ aquarium filter, the power filter would be it. Brands like Tetra’s Whisper, Marineland’s Penguin & Emperor, & Hagen’s Aquaclear have become household names in the aquarium industry due the ease, convenience and effectiveness of the power filter. A simple, magnetic impeller design combined with easy-to-replace filter cartridges make power filters a very effective for their price and simplicity. A simple hang-on-the-tank profile makes them easy to hide while still providing adequate 3-stage filtration for small to medium-size aquariums.

Ease of Installation – Easy

Cost – Low to Medium

Upkeep – Low to Medium

Space Requirements – Medium

Biological Effectiveness – Medium

Chemical Effectiveness – Medium

Mechanical Effectiveness – Medium to High

Noise – Low to Medium

 

Canister Filters

Canister Filters are great for providing a higher level of biological, chemical and mechanical filtration when compared to their power filter counterparts. Larger media areas and more stationary designs let you maintain larger bioloads and to maintain larger tanks in general. They’re also really easy to customize if you’d like to add additional filter media, while their specialized designs ensure a great water-to-media contact ratio so you maximize filter media effectiveness. However, what canister filters add in filtration capacity, they give back a bit in ease of installation, cost and space requirements. These big boys tend to cost a bit more and take up a bit more space under or behind your aquarium. They’re not always a walk in the part to install either.

Ease of Installation – Intermediate

Cost – Medium to High

Upkeep – Medium

Space Requirements – Medium

Biological Effectiveness – Medium

Chemical Effectiveness – Medium to High

Mechanical Effectiveness – High

Noise – Low

Wet/Dry Filters

Wet/Dry Filters are the pinnacle of aquarium filtration effectiveness. Most large scale aquariums employ some variation of wet/dry filtration in conjunction with an external sump system to maintain crystal clear, biologically sound environments in both fresh or saltwater. Their higher ratings for chemical and mechanical filtration are derived from the idea that, given that it’s a large, external sump, you can quickly and easily add large amounts of filtration pad or chemical media to facilitate your tank’s clean-up, but water contact is not ensured the way it is in a canister filter. But these filters are not for the timid. Large wet/dry sumps take up a lot of space. You also may need additional equipment or tank modifications to get yours to work correctly. Make no mistake, wet/dry filtration is the gold standard for biological aquarium filtration, but be prepared for a more complex installation, a higher starter cost, and greater space requirements than the other filters on this list.

Ease of Installation – Intermediate to Hard

Cost – High

Upkeep – Medium

Space Requirements – High

Biological Effectiveness – High

Chemical Effectiveness – Medium to High

Mechanical Effectiveness – Medium to High

Noise – Medium to High

So there you have it. Now that you’ve made it this far – we’ve thrown together our recommendations in a handy infographic as well. You may also check out our filter guides for information on specific types.  Good luck with your filter purchase and aquarium setup. As always, if you have any questions – please shoot us an email at marinebio@thatpetplace.com or give us a call at 1-888-THAT-PET.

Isamu Akasaki, Hiroshi Amano and Shuki Nakahmura are three men you have probably never heard of.  If you were Cliff Clavin, you would probably refer to them as three men who have never been in your kitchen.  Their work however, you are most certainly aware of, and probably use it in some form or another every day.  These three men were responsible for inventing the first blue light emitting diodes (LED) in the early 1990’s, which revolutionized the way we light our world.  For their efforts, they have been awarded the 2014 Nobel Prize for physics.

 

For aquarists, the use of blue LED Aquarium lights has been widespread, especially reef aquarium keepers who are keenly aware of the stunning ability of blue LEDs to promote fluorescent colors in corals.  Nothing makes coral colors pop like they do under blue LED light.  The amazing growth in the genetically engineered GloFish craze, is largely due to the ability of blue LED lights to really bring out their amazing glowing coloration vs. traditional blue light sources.

 

Why are Blue LED lights important enough to win a Nobel Prize?

LED lights had been around for many years, with the first patents and commercial products showing up in the 1960’s, starting with red LEDs used as indicator lights.  Other colors of LED were developed in the following years, including green LEDs, but the Blue LED development would elude scientists for decades to come, until Shuki Nakahmura demonstrated the ability to produce blue LEDs in 1994, and then with Hiroshi Amano and Isami Akasaki developed a high efficiency, high output blue LED in 1995. This started the modern LED lighting revolution.

 

The Blue LED was the missing ingredient for creating white LED light.  Mixing red, blue and green light produces light that appears white to the human eye, which can be seen in many modern applications of RGB LED light fixtures.  With the foundation of the newly invented Blue LED, scientist quickly developed a white LED light with the use of a phosphor coating on the Blue LED chips.  The White LED has changed the world, they are energy efficient, environmentally friendly and long lasting.  As production costs have decreased, and efficiency and output have increased over the last 20 years, LED lighting is rapidly replacing other forms of light in just about every application imaginable, from your homes, to your cars, to street lights to your cell phones.  The combinations of white and blue LED lights now dominate the aquarium lighting market.

 

Thank you gentlemen, the world is a better place for your efforts, and our aquariums look nicer too.

Until next blog,

Dave

Hiring staff for any job can be tricky. You need to make sure you have the right number of qualified employees to handle the job, not just a lot of employees on your payroll that eat into your bottom line or ignore the job you’ve given them. Choosing a clean-up crew for your saltwater aquarium is similar; you need to make sure you have the right snails and crabs and other cleaners for the tank without too many that can deplete your resources or just not even do the “right” work at all. “How many snails do I need?” is only part of the question; making sure you are getting the ones best suited to the job is just as important.

 

 

Job Description and Qualifications

 

Hiring an employee without knowing their qualifications or describing the job doesn’t make much sense, whether it is renovations on your home or clean-up within your aquarium. Not all snails eat algae. Not all snails that eat algae eat the same kind of algae. Not all “algae” is even algae at all. And snails may not even be the best (or only) cleaners for the job; “detritivores” that eat the leftover food and waste (“detritus”) are also necessary for keeping a tank clean and healthy. The first step to choosing a clean-up crew is to identify what the problem is that you’d like them to help you solve. Algae is normal in any aquarium and having a basic clean-up and scavenger crew is a good idea but beyond that, if you have a specific problem like a cyanobacteria bloom, hair algae, green water or other issues, you may need a solution beyond a few snails. You may be seeing a symptom of a larger problem like poor water flow or lighting quality and unless that problem is addressed, it will keep coming back no matter how many snails or other clean-up crews you throw at it.

 

What are the working conditions?

 

It takes a different kind of person to paint the walls of a house than it does to paint the cables at the top of the Golden Gate Bridge. It also takes a different kind of critter to clean up a nano-reef than it does a rock-filled bare-bottom aquarium or a deep sand bed. Some hermit crabs can have difficulty reaching into small crevices and some snails can’t flip themselves over if they tumble off of the glass or rockwork. Some snails, starfish and other animals popular in aquariums also eat other snails or invertebrates and corals. Are the animals you are choosing suitable for the environment you have?

 

It’s all in the job security

Contrary to popular belief, snails and hermit crabs are not disposable or short-lived or robotic lawnmowers that feed on nothing but salt and sunlight. If they have plenty of food and proper care, they can live for a long time. If they run out of the right food, they won’t survive so overloading a tank with cleaners to keep it spotless is only going to end up with losses. When snails and other cleaners die and decompose, they affect water quality. When water quality goes down, algae will bloom. When algae blooms, you’ll need to add more cleaners. Starting to see where this cycle goes wrong? Avoid the urge to overload on a massive cleanup crew and start with a basic foundation. Once you can observe where they need the help, supplement with some helpers for that purpose (like aerating the substrate, cleaning the glass, targeting hair algae or other trouble areas).

 

The magic number is…

 

Just like the old “inch-per-gallon” rule that is still floating around for fish, there are some stocking guidelines for clean-up crews. Some of the most common include a snail per gallon or a hermit crab per five gallons but again, this only works if that snail or hermit crab is suitable. To help you out in making some selections, we have basic Algae Packs with recommended tank sizes. You can start with the one closest to your tank size and give it some time. You can always supplement later or get a specialty algae pack to target a specific need like detritus or hair and buble algae. Remember, hiring is always an ongoing process!

 

 

Starting a siphon to move water from one container to another is a basic function in aquarium-keeping. Among other random uses, we use it in water changes, emptying or filling an aquarium, acclimating new livestock, and making filters work correctly. Since it is something that we use so often – especially in a retail environment like That Fish Place, it can be one of those actions that we take for granted and just assume everyone knows how to do but everyone has to be taught before they know, right? So here are some tips and tricks to have you siphoning like a pro in no time.

 

How it works

Before we discuss how to do it, it helps to know what is happening. A siphon uses a vacuum inside of the tubing to move liquid in a way the same as using a straw to drink. When you use a straw, you suck on the end to remove the air from the tube. As the air is removed, there is a vacuum inside of the straw and the liquid in the cup moves up to fill the space. If there is a hole or crack in the straw or if your mouth isn’t completely sealed around the end of the straw, it won’t work.

Instead of moving the water up a straw, a siphon uses gravity to move water  from a container at a higher elevation down into a waiting lower-level bucket or other container. When a vacuum like the straw is created in the tubing, the water rushes in to fill it and gravity keeps it going into the lower container until both are even or the siphon is “broken” by allowing air to get into the tube (usually just by removing the higher end from the water). It is creating that vacuum that can be the tricky part for aquarists.

 

 

 

• Method 1: By mouth
• I’m going to get this one out of the way because it is the most common but also the least adviseable. Its easy, its quick, we’ve all done it…and most of us have ended up with a mouthful of aquarium water in the process at some point. This isn’t the safest method and is why every gas pump you use will have big “do not siphon by mouth” warnings on them. In this method, the higher end (End A for the rest of this blog and the left side of the graphic above) is put into the aquarium and the lower end (End B and the right side of the graphic) is held below the level of End A. You would then put your mouth over End B, suck on it like a straw under the water starts flowing and release it into the bucket before getting a mouthful of it. There is a risk of getting anything left in the tube in your mouth as well as anything in your aquarium water; DO NOT use this method if you have medicated or used any other chemicals in your aquarium!!

 

• Method 2: Submersion
• In this method, we start off with the air removed from the tube by completely submerging the tube in the aquarium first. Once all the air is out, plug both ends with your hand or a finger and remove End B from the water. Once End B is lower than End A and over your second container, let go of both ends. The tube would then empty into the bucket and start the siphon from the aquarium. Alternatively, you can also fill the tube with water first if you can’t fit it safely into the aquarium to submerge it; just hold the ends closed until you have them in place. This method tends to work better with slightly larger tubing (0.5” diameter or more) rather than thin airline tubing like those used for acclimation.

 

 

• Method 3: Power-starting
• Instead of drawing the air out through End B, this method forces it out from End A. If you have a powerhead or pump in the aquarium or a powerful output into the tank, you can use that to start the siphon. Hold End A up to this source and seal it as tightly as possibly with your hand until the water is coming out of the other end of the tubing. When you remove End A then (and get it in the water immediately without allowing any air in, if it is above the surface), you should have a good siphon going. Again, this tends to be more effective with larger-diameter tubing than the thin stuff. Some companies also make gravel vacuums that fasten directly to a faucet and use a similar method of starting the siphon “automatically”.

 

• Method 4: Siphon “Starters”

• Some gravel vacuums have starter bulbs built into them for this but if yours doesn’t, you can create your own. The built-in starter bulbs would act like your mouth and lungs in Method 1 by sucking the air out of the tube to start the siphon. For thin-diameter tubing like the airline tubing used for acclimation, you can use a syringe plunger like the ones that come with most test kits as a starter. With End A in the aquarium, put the tip of the depressed plunger into End B, then draw out the stopper. This sucks the air out of the tube and starts the siphon for you. While this one isn’t as effective for the bigger diameter tubing, you can try larger syringes,  turkey basters, or irrigation bulbs from the health and first aid aisle at the drug store for this purpose.

 

The Breaking Point

To end your siphon, just take End A out of the water, raise End B higher than End A or allow air to get into the tube and it will be “broken”. Alternatively, if your siphon stops, check to see if any of those things have happened or if something is clogging up your tube. If you do notice that your gravel vacuum keeps getting clogged where the wider vacuum attaches to the more narrow tubing, just tilt it a bit more or tap it lightly and the heavier gravel should fall. If you are using your siphon to acclimate your new livestock, you can tie a loose knot in the end of the tubing or add a small valve to help control the flow once you’ve gotten your siphon started. If you have any questions or problems starting your siphon, or if you have a method that I haven’t mentioned, let us know!