That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

Patty here. I received a link to this article from a friend, and instantly thought it would be terrific to share. It features some amazing photographs of thousands of Cownose Rays migrating through the Gulf of Mexico to feeding grounds. Migrations like this happen biannually throughout the animal world, whether birds, mammals, butterflies, or these majestic rays, I’m always awed by the magnitude. These photos are amazing, and they make me feel really small, I mean imagine being surrounded by 3000 or so rays with up to a 6 foot “wingspan” WOW! The article made me remember that with all the economic, political and social turmoil in the world, life goes on seemingly without a hitch out there, just like it has for eons

To read the original article and view more pictures check out: Stingray Migration

Hi, Melissa here. As the pond season is coming to a close I figured I would write one more article about pond fish diseases so when next spring arrives you will be ready to treat any creepy crawly things scampering over your fish.

Along with bacterial infections, koi and goldfish are also very susceptible to parasitic infections. Parasites are crawling around everywhere, but the majority are microscopic and never seen with the naked eye. There are a few parasites that are visible with the naked eye. Fish lice, anchor worms, leaches, and ich are among the few parasites that can be seen without a microscope. Most parasites themselves are not particularly deadly, but they will set the stage for further infections that will ultimately lead to death if left untreated. Parasites irritate fish by latching on to their gills, scales, or other soft tissue to feed causing a lot of stress. Once a fish is stressed, they become very susceptible to infections. Bacterial infections are very common in conjunction with parasitic infections. Some symptoms of parasites include flashing, white spots, clamped fins, respiratory distress, erratic swimming, white and slimy feces, red sores, among others. If any external parasites are observed medications with the active ingredient diflubenxuron, praziquantel, and trichlorfon are a good choice. Some medications that we sell containing these ingredients include, anchors away, dimlin, parasite guard, and prazipro.

Parasitic infections are not directly caused by poor water quality, unlike bacterial infections, thus prevention is a little harder. Quarantining new fish and plants are highly recommended. Fish should be housed in a hospital tank for several weeks for observation and plants should be dipped before added directly to a pond since plants can carry unwanted parasite eggs. Some people suggest a very dilute bleach solution to dip the plants in for a few seconds then rinse in dechlorinated water. Others suggest potassium permanganate (use just enough to turn the water pink). Plants could also be placed in a quarantine tank for a few weeks as long as the plant are receiving the correct lighting.

So the take home lesson here is…”Learn from the mistakes of others, you won’t live long enough to make them all yourself!” ..ALWAYS quarantine new arrivals. Nobody wants to have thousands of dollars turn belly up because of one careless mistake.

HAPPY FISH KEEPING!

Going Green
Patty here. In today’s world, where we’re increasingly buying green, thinking green and living green, a green, lush planted aquarium may be just the thing to give a little perspective. Planted aquariums can be quite rewarding, a relaxing indoor view to the serene underwater world. Now, facing the doldrums of the upcoming winter season it may be the perfect time to create a tropical getaway in your living room. A beautiful green planted paradise can give the room an ethereal and comforting glow, just the aesthetic therapy to ward off cabin fever till spring.

Your pleasures aside, a planted aquarium has tons of benefits for the fish that reside in the tank too! I’ve always thought that a thriving planted aquarium makes for happier, healthier fish. A successful planted tank gives fish and inverts an environment close to nature, with more natural processes maintaining key aspects that keep the fish in good health.

To start with, live aquarium plants are a natural means of filtration. Non-planted tanks require powerful and efficient means of filtration, whether you prefer canister filters, power filters, undergravel or any other type, these filters and the bacteria they harbor are charged with the duty of removing and breaking down all of the crud produced by the fish and their keepers (usually by means of overfeeding or poor maintenance habits). Unfortunately, tanks and filters without regular maintenance may not be able to maintain the balance on their own. In a well-planted tank, the plants serve as chemical and biological filters, removing and processing many of the toxic components produced by decaying waste, and serving as colonizing surfaces for beneficial bacteria. All that is necessary is a simple mechanical filtration system with a bit of biological media as a back-up. No more chemical solutions to detoxify and neutralize all those nasty toxins! By the active processing of these leftover nutrients in the water, there is little left to benefit algae growth. A planted tank with balanced nutrient and light levels will need very infrequent algae maintenance needs if at all.

As in nature, plants produce oxygen through photosynthesis, so as long as your fish population isn’t too high, you shouldn’t need air stones or the pumps they require to complicate you set-up. One less thing to plug in and fiddle with and your fish will still have all the oxygen they need.

A jungle of aquatic vegetation provides necessary cover for fish that are accustomed to dense areas of freshwater waterways. Small and timid fish will benefit from the safety and security of lush live plants, and if you’re lucky enough to have fish spawn in the aquarium, the foliage is the perfect nursery for the little guys to find cover too. As a bonus, many fish will eat bits of algae and dead plant bits in the aquarium. For the most part this nibbling will benefit the fish and the plants, the fish varying their diet while allowing the healthy plant tissue to thrive. Of course, you’ll need to be choosy about the fish that you house in a planted tank, as some are strictly herbivores and may destroy and uproot plants.

I can’t really think of any way you can go wrong with a planted aquarium. By far, the benefits outweigh the few minor drawbacks. The maintenance will be about the same if not less than a fish only aquarium. The cost of set-up may be a little more expensive, but you’ll be rewarded once the tank is established, thriving and basically balancing itself and your fish will be very appreciative.

Ready to Garden?
When you’re ready to build your new set-up or upgrade your plastic paradise to something phenomenal, you’ll have to first consider the basics. First, take a look at the aquarium and associate yourself with what you have to start. What are the tank measurements, especially depth? What are the specs of your current lighting, heaters, and filtration? If you’re just starting out, you’ll just want to consider where your tank will be settled then make your shopping list. Your best bet is to start with a tank of at least 30 gallons, and not too tall (under 20″), for the best light penetration.
Once you’ve decided on the aquarium, you’ll want to look for suitable aquarium lighting. There are several aspects to consider here, including aesthetics, functionality and economics. There are many fixtures and lamps available in the market, and with a little research or help from an informed salesperson, you’ll be able to find lighting to suit your individual needs. Without exploring the technical complexities of lighting, you’ll basically need to be looking for lighting that will suit the biological needs of your plants, allowing them to photosynthesize efficiently, thus optimizing their health and growth. The quality of the light is vital. I would suggest that you forget about incandescent, halogen, halide, and skip right to full-spectrum fluorescent lighting. Full-spectrum and compact fluorescent lamps will provide the best quality lighting for a planted set-up and it is the most economical to run and replace, the biggest bang for your buck in the long run. Look for bulbs with full-spectrum bulbs with at least 5000K. You’ll have to consider the depth of your tank, the amount of surface agitation, and you may need to adjust the amount of light up or down depending on other aspects of your aquarium, but as a general rule of thumb, start with at least 2 watts of light energy produced per gallon. This amount may need to be doubled or more depending on various conditions and species of plants you want to keep.
You may also want to pick up a aquarium light timer for the light fixtures. This will allow you to maintain the necessary light-dark cycle. Set the timer for a 8-14 hour daylight period, depending on the lighting and plants you choose, and the lights will automatically turn on and off for the duration. Prolonged periods of dark or light will have a negative impact in aquatic plant life, more light is not necessarily beneficial, and prolonged dark cycles will be detrimental.

Check back on Friday for the conclusion of this article,

Until then,

Patty

Hi, Craig here with some cool stuff about Bristleworms.

It’s late in the evening, you have gotten home after the lights on your reef tank have gone out. Walking by the tank you look down and notice a little fuzzy worm poking out of the rocks. Startled, you press your face close to the tank and …ZIP!!… the little worm is gone. Thinking to yourself that you have a cool new critter in your tank, you forget all about the worm. Days go by… weeks go by… another late night at work and you again arrive at home to a darkened tank. Looking into the aquarium again, you see dozens of little worms now! Crawling everywhere! Now you are a bit concerned. What in the world are these things?! And why are there so many?! And how does one get rid of them?!

What you have discovered are members of a large class of worms called Polychaete worms. There are probably more polychaete worms on this planet than virtually any other creature. Feather duster worms and Christmas tree worms as both included in the class Polychaeta. Some Polychaete worms live over hydrothermal vents in the deepest reaches of our oceans and are amongst the most heat tolerant animals on the planet. Another species of Polychaete worm lives over cold seeps in the ocean and may be the most long lived animal on Earth, reaching perhaps 250 years of age. Most are marine worms, but some species have even adapted to living in humid terrestrial environs.

The little boogers you have just discovered in your tank are very common, most likely from the genus Hermodice or Eurythoe, and often carry the common names of “Bristle worm” and “Fire worm.” These names are derived from the rows of needle-like bristles that line the sides of their bodies. These bristles are often venomous and can produce localized swelling and, in some cases, extreme burning sensations. There is some debate as to the danger of these creatures in the home reef aquaria. While there is no doubt that many species of bristle worms will predate upon soft corals, gorgonians, and tridacnid clams, some of the smaller members of the genus Eurythoe can certainly be counted as some of the best detritivores in the business.

So how do you decide if you have one of the big nasties or one of the little janitorial worms? That will take a little research. I have seen what may literally be dozens of different species. Each one a little different than the other. From the foot long Hermodice carunculata that is white to grey in colour with white spines, to the small red-headed Eurythoe spp. that are rarely more than 7cm in length. If you have tiny worms that are white to black with red heads, chances are they are actually doing you a lot of good. However, even in large numbers, the little guys could become a nuisance. If, on the other hand, you have one of the large white or pink ones… well… those eat things. Trapping and population control through predation are almost always good ideas. Which method you choose will depend greatly on the size and number of the worms.

If you have smaller species of Polychaete worms, it is very likely that you will be able to control their population size by using various natural predators. Of the different creatures used to control bristle worms, there are a handful that are stand outs. At the top of the list are the Pseudocheilinus wrasses. Six line wrasses (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia,) the disappearing wrasse (Pseudocheilinus evanidus,) the Twelve line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus tetrataenia,) and Mystery wrasses (Pseudocheilinus ocellatus) are all well known for their appetites towards bristle worms and flatworms. Generally considered to be well-mannered in community reef tanks, these wrasses make a very beautiful and curious addition to any tank. Another genus of fish that is known for it’s ability to eat small bristle worms are the dottybacks. There are a handful of Pseudochromis that have shown consider skill and appetite when it comes to eating bristle worms. The most notable are Pseudochromis fridmani, Pseudochromis sankeyi, and Pseudochromis springeri. Each of these species is a very inquisitive and entertaining addition to a reef tank. While most Pseudochromis show a very high level of aggression to tank mates, these three species have shown to be quite tolerant of neighbours. Any of these fish would make a very beautiful and prized inhabitant to your home aquaria. Another excellent, if somewhat voracious, predator of bristle worms is the arrow crab. Members of the genus Stenorhynchus are very well known to eat bristle worms. Using their very long claws to extract worms from rockwork, these unusual crabs eat the worms as though they were eating a fuzzy piece of spaghetti. The only negative to these crabs… if there aren’t any worms around… they will catch whatever they can to keep themselves fed. Other crabs, shrimp, and small fish are all on the menu if the arrow crab gets hungry enough. Continuing with the invertebrate solution for bristle worms, there is a particular genus of shrimp that can be somewhat helpful in controlling populations of the smaller worms. The coral shrimp of the genus Stenopus have been noted to eat bristle worms in modest numbers. These shrimp are very attractive and can be kept in mated pairs. This ability to keep them in pairs makes the coral shrimp a really wonderful member of your aquarium. In regards to keeping the arrow crab or the coral shrimp, it must be noted that some individuals will preferentially take to eating prepared fish food rather than putting the effort into hunting worms. But, really, who can blame them when they know that there is a free meal coming to them? No matter what your choice in biological bristle worm control, you will no doubt be pleased with the addition of a beautiful and interesting new resident to your reef.

Having just spent an entire paragraph on predatory control of bristle worm populations, it should be stated that predation upon large specimens is virtually impossible, so trapping them would be the most efficient way of removing them from your aquarium. There are several commercially available traps, but almost all of them are for smaller worms. To make a trap that is capable of catching a larger worm take a little bit of imagination as well as a little McGuyver. Using 1/2″ PVC, cut an 8 inch length. Then, cut two small pieces of nylon window screening and rubberband it on each end. On one end, cut a small slit to allow for entry by the worms. Before you submerge the tube into the water, you will want to place a piece of shrimp all the way inside the tube as far as you can get it. Leave the tube in overnight. Check the tube first thing in the morning and see what you’ve got! It may take a handful of tries, but this method will often bring results.

You may be tempted to try to remove the worm with a set of tweezers or tongs. Take care in doing this… for if the worms breaks into pieces, each of those pieces can form a fully functional worm! With patience, either technique mentioned in the above paragraphs should yield results in controlling or eliminating your bristle worm population. Remember that small numbers of the small Eurythoe spp. actually considered somewhat beneficial, but if you keep soft coral and tridacnid clams, you may be better off having some sort of control in the tank. Another helpful tip in controlling populations, keep your tank on a regular, weekly water change schedule. Weekly 15% water changes will help keep organics down to a minimum, thus keeping the food source for bristle worms down to a minimum. So, if you ever encounter any of these little beasties and want to be rid of them, try a trap or a natural predator. If, on the other hand, you decide to keep your new critters, you will have some very curious and odd pets to observe! The shy nature of these worms can even become somewhat endearing if you give them the chance!

Welcome back Brandon Moyer for Wednesday’s post.

Many aquarists are familiar with varying forms of symbiosis.  The most popular example I can give is that of the clownfish hosting in an anemone, providing the anemone with food and in return receiving protection from predators.  There are several different types of symbiosis, but both parties do not always benefit from these close relationships.

You may not be familiar with one creature that forms a symbiotic relationship with humans.  This relationship is considered parasitism, and we receive the poor end of the deal.  The species is called Vandellia cirrhosa, or candiru.  These fish live in the Amazon River basin, grow to about three inches in length, and prey on other species of fish.  They can detect the waste excreted by other fishes gills and follow the trail to find their prey.  Rather than eating the fish, they use barbs on their gill covers, or opercula, to wedge themselves under the opercula of their victim.  They then bite into an artery in the gills and drink the fishes blood.  They can completely gorge themselves with blood in as little as thirty seconds!

What makes the candiru even more horrifying is that their ability to detect waste from other fish also allows them to detect human waste, more specifically urine.  They have been known to follow the trail of urine of those who relieve themselves in the water and actually swim up the victims urethra!  If that doesn’t make you cringe, once in the urethra they are unable to turn around, and because of their spines they cannot back themselves out.  They eventually die in the urethra while the victim experiences swelling and obviously extreme pain.  The only way to remove the fish is through surgery. 

I hope you have enjoyed my first article on symbiosis.  Make sure to wear a bathing suit if you are ever swimming in South America.  Look for another blog on pistol shrimp and goby mutualism and pearlfish and sea cucumber parasitism.