That Bird Blog – Bird Care and History for Pet Birds

Overview

Despite its status as one of the most frequently kept cockatoos, this Indonesian native remains something of a mystery in the wild. The Goffin’s cockatoo is, in fact, in somewhat of an unusual situation – being at once bred in huge numbers in captivity and yet likely endangered in the wild. Today we’ll take a look at what little is known about its natural behaviors.

Classification
Order: Psittaciformes (the parrots)

Family: Cacatuidae (the cockatoos). Twenty one species of cockatoo have been described, 11 of which are confined to Australia. The remainder inhabit New Guinea and nearby islands.

Physical Description
Average size: At 13 inches, this is one of the smaller cockatoos.

Smallest Cockatoo: The cockatiel, Nymphicus hollandicus (please see my article The Cockatiel: Facts about the World’s Smallest Cockatoo)

Largest Cockatoo: The massive palm cockatoo, Probosciger aterrimus, reaches 29 inches in length (please see my article, Hand Rearing Palm Cockatoos)

The impression is, in my opinion, one of muted beauty – the overall white color of the Goffin’s cockatoo is set off by salmon-pink splashes at the lores (area between the eye and bill) and at the bases of the head feathers. The ear coverlets and underside of the tail and flight feathers are subtly tinged with yellow. The head crest is comparatively small.

Range
Goffin’s cockatoos are limited in distribution to Indonesia’s Tanimbar Islands, in the Banda Sea (between New Guinea, Australia and Timor). It has been introduced to Tual (Kai Islands, Indonesia) and to Singapore.

Habitat
Coastal lowland primary and secondary forests and agricultural areas.

Status in the Wild
Goffin’s cockatoo is, along with 4 other species, listed on Appendix I of CITES. Populations have long been in decline due to the effects of logging, which destroys nesting sites and brings nestlings within reach of collectors. The World Parrot Trust has, on occasion, purchased illegally-captured birds for return to the wild, but concrete conservation action is otherwise in short supply.

Their exact status remains unknown, but it is believed that there are far more captive than wild Goffin’s cockatoos.

Diet
Fruits, berries, flower buds and blossoms and nuts. Field reports indicate that they may consume insects at times. Goffin’s cockatoos occasionally raid corn fields, but the species is not considered a major agricultural pest.

Reproduction
Very little is known of the specifics of breeding in nature. Pairs mate for life, and produce 2-3 eggs per clutch. The weather in the Goffin’s natural habitat fluctuates wildly between very dry and very wet, and they seem able to breed year-round, whenever suitable conditions prevail.

The eggs are laid in a tree hollow, and are incubated for 28-30 days. The chicks remain in the nest for 8 weeks or so, after which they may forage as a small flock with the parents for some time.

Sexual maturity is reached in 2-3 years, but most do not breed until age 5-7.

Longevity
Wild birds seem not to survive longer than 20 years or so, but captives routinely reach age 40, occasionally age 60-70.

Miscellaneous
Goffin’s cockatoos are extremely cautious in the wild, staying to taller trees and flying off at the slightest hint of danger. They are most often observed in pairs or small family groups of 3-10 birds.

Conservation-oriented information concerning this cockatoo is posted on the web site of the Committee on the International Trade in Endangered Species (note: the range CITES lists for this bird is more extensive than that which is generally accepted by ornithologists):
http://www.cites.org/eng/resources/species.html

Image referenced from Wikipedia Commons: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/22/Goffin.jpg

Normal Noise
Incessant screaming is the most common and serious problem complained of by parrot owners. Of course, one must first distinguish between normal and abnormal vocalizations. Having observed a number of parrot species in the wild, and worked with many more in zoos and aviaries, I can assure you that almost all are extremely noisy creatures. Noise-making is therefore not always indicative of a problem – in fact, even with much experience, I am still surprised at the racket that free-living parrots raise. Simple put, parrots are not for everyone, and no amount of training or bonding will change their basic nature.

Bear in mind also that parrots are not suited by nature to live alone. No matter how much time you spend with your bird, compared to its ideal, natural situation, it is living alone. Again I think back to wild parrots I have observed – they are almost always preening, squabbling or otherwise in physical contact with one another. Of course, certain species tend to be quieter than others, but individual birds of any type can be problematical.

What Not To Do
A parrot that screams for hours on end, or whenever you leave the room, is not exhibiting normal behavior. Assuming that the bird is healthy and not fearful of anything, screaming is most likely a call for attention. Do not reinforce the behavior by responding, as parrots are very quick to learn what works and what doesn’t. Never scream back (tempting as that may be!) – your bird will be happy for the response and will respond in kind. Physical punishments – i.e. tapping the beak or squirting water – never work with birds. Covering the cage is only a temporary solution, and may bring on other problems due to the disruption of the bird’s light/dark cycle (just ask anyone whose work shift swings from day to night).

Getting to the Root of the Problem
If your parrot screams when left alone despite getting a great deal of socialization time, look for a reason other than attention-getting as a root of the problem. Perhaps the bird is being frightened by something of which you are unaware. One Manhattanite was surprised to discover that the source of her bird’s distress was a red-tailed hawk that alighted daily on a nearby tree and peered at the parrot for a few minutes. Raccoons or cats that have an eye on your bird will make a “window check” part of their daily routine, and may program your parrot to scream in anticipation of their visits.

If your pet has been adopted, perhaps a clue form its past will help. You will likely not be able to make much headway in this situation unless you are able to speak with the former owner – parrots have long memories, and sometimes make associations that might not make sense to us. If the parrot is fearful of some real or imagined danger, its screaming may occur even in absence of the threatening object or situation.

A Useful Technique
The trick is to give the parrot attention when it is not screaming. One technique that often works over time (the key words here being “over time”) is to respond to the screaming with a low, soothing sound (easier said than done, I know!). Once the parrot picks up and mimics this sound, reward it with attention immediately. Eventually, your bird may learn to use the new noise to attract you…..assuming you continue to ignore the screaming. As the key here is consistency, you must be able to spend a good deal of time near the bird if this tactic is to work.

Above all, please remember that, charming and intelligent as your parrot may be, it is first and foremost a bird, and its behaviors are in no way comparable to what a person might do in similar circumstances. Trying to understand its actions in any context other than the natural history of a parrot will frustrate and confuse both you and your pet. Read as much as you can about parrots in the wild and captivity, and try to apply the facts you learn to your own unique situation.

Noise potential and other factors to consider before becoming a parrot owner are explored in an article on the web site of the Wisconsin Bird Lover’s Club:
http://www.wibirdloversexoticsclub.org/

The concept of behavioral enrichment encompasses a number of techniques designed to encourage a captive animal to live, for lack of a better word, a “fuller” life. We do this by exploiting natural behaviors in a way that encourages the animal to stretch its mind and body by exploring, exercising, hunting, trying new foods and so on – activities outside of the basic necessities of captive life.

The Importance of Enrichment Opportunities
Parrots, with their limitless curiosity and energy levels, are ideal enrichment candidates. This is fortunate, as enrichment activities go beyond “nice to do” for such highly intelligent birds. Most animals that I have worked with in zoos, from fish to mammals, benefit from “BE”, as zoo keepers term it. However, active, inquisitive, social species – parrots, crows, primates, wolves and so many others – need physical and mental stimulation if they are to not just endure but thrive in captivity.

What’s more, opportunities to explore and think stave off boredom, and in parrots this often translates into a well-adjusted pet that does not pluck its feathers or scream.

Following is a review of the major categories of BE. You’ll notice that the various types overlap, and most stimulate parrots in more than one way. Please see our large selection of unique parrot toys, play pens, perches and CD’s – many will be useful in organizing a BE program for your pet.

Physical Enrichment
I really favor this with parrots – after watching several species in the wild, I’m convinced that physical movement should be a key component of any pet parrot’s BE program. Parrots, even those long confined to boring cages, take well to wing and leg-stretching opportunities.

Provide a complex cage, and remember that you can vastly increase the cage’s usable area by adding climbing surfaces. Birds that flit from perch to perch, such as finches, make good use of spacious cages. But caged parrots move about mainly by climbing – a huge cage is not much good if the bird can merely sit on a perch or two and stare into space.

Install vines and perches of varying widths and sizes, so that your pet can make full use of the space afforded to it. Wild grapevine is particularly useful as you can find nearly any shape and size needed – just be sure you can distinguish it from poison ivy! Parrots will also delight in using and shredding branches from fruit and other non-toxic trees (please see Pet Birds and Plants – Avoiding Toxic Species).

When adding toys to your parrots cage, don’t just attach them within reach – try making your pet work, by installing the toys in locations that can only be reached by hanging, climbing sideways, etc.

Social Enrichment
This category of BE includes interactions with other birds, people and (if safe!) other pets. When your parrot is left alone, a training CD, TV or radio may provide some diversion.

Mental Enrichment
Anything that stimulates your parrot to “figure some thing out” qualifies as mental stimulation. This can range from hiding its food, supplying a foraging toy within which a treat is secreted or simply introducing a safe, novel item into its environment (i.e. a pine cone or cardboard box).

Nutritional Enrichment
Hiding and varying the diet works well with any animal – just watch a group of guppies habituated to a fish flake diet react to a chunk of frozen prawn if you have any doubt as to the universality of the technique. Nutritionally based enrichment is also very easy to introduce, and the possibilities are limitless.

Please browse our parrot food selections for unique items to offer your pet, and consider using whole fruits and nuts as opposed to pre-cut pieces. Research your pet’s wild diet and then search for some foods it might appreciate – food markets in Asian, Latin American, African and Caribbean communities offer a wealth of nutritious fruits, nuts and vegetables, some of which might be part of your pet’s natural diet.

Time and time again, I have been surprised by the very noticeable change in an animal’s level of excitement when offered a new or natural food item. This applies whether the animal in question is a toad or a tiger – I’m sure you will be delighted at your parrot’s reactions.

Small meals spread over time and food items hid about the cage or, if safe, the house, are other tried and true methods of keeping your parrot on his or her toes.

Sensory Enrichment
Pay attention to those noises that stimulate your bird to call, display, bathe or just sit up and take notice. Play these and similar ones to rouse it to activity.

Of course, avoid using noises that might startle or instill fear in your pet – your macaw might not appreciate a recording of the scream of a harpy eagle, for example…then again, it would be interesting to see if a captive born macaw might respond to a predator’s call!

An excellent article on the natural foraging and social behaviors of the kea is posted on the web site of the University of Nebraska’s Avian Cognition Center:
http://www.biosci.unl.edu/avcog/research/kea.htm

Causes and Symptoms
Avian goiter or thyroid hyperplasia is most commonly caused by an iodine poor diet. The afflicted bird’s thyroid gland cannot produce enough thyroxine, and the brain responds by signaling the gland to increase the number of thyroxine-synthesizing cells. These additional cells cause the thyroid gland (located in the throat) to enlarge, which is the main symptom of the condition. The resulting goiter may be accompanied by vomiting, lethargy and difficulty in swallowing. Eventually, pressure upon the circulatory system and other complications may lead to the bird’s death.

Seed vs. Pellet Based Diets
Seed-eating birds, especially budgerigars (parakeets), are particularly susceptible to thyroid hyperplasia. Seeds vary, among species and locality grown, in iodine content and hence a seed-based diet may be fine in some cases but iodine-deficient in others. The surest way to prevent an iodine deficiency is to wean your pet onto a pellet based diet, with seeds being used as a supplemental food. Lafeber, ZuPreem, Pretty Bird and our other pelleted foods have been formulated to meet the specific nutritional requirements of a variety of bird species, and provide complete, balanced diets.

Iodine Supplementation
If your bird will not accept pellets, you might consider adding a preventative medication, such as Gimborn Iodine Solution, to the diet. Budgerigars seem to have rather high iodine requirements, while other birds vary in this regard, so each case must be reviewed with your veterinarian on an individual basis.

Please write in if you are considering iodine supplementation, or have questions regarding pellet-based diets.

A comprehensive bibliography of papers dealing with wild and pet bird nutrition, including iodine requirements in budgerigars, is posted at:
http://www.nal.usda.gov/awic/pubs/Birds/feed.htm

“Cockatoo”? Yes, molecular genetic studies have revealed that this most common of pet birds is actually a true cockatoo. Today I would like to pass along a few facts about its life in the wild.

Range
Cockatiels range throughout nearly all of interior Australia and along the northwestern coast. During drought years, immense flocks may appear in coastal areas from which they have been absent for decades.

Food and Feeding
Unlike most parrots and cockatoos, cockatiels are clad in subtle gray – perhaps to camouflage the birds as they feed on the ground. They also feed in trees and bushes, and have been observed consuming mistletoe berries – a toxic meal that would kill most other bird species. Cockatiels sometimes forage in mixed species groups, especially with red-rumped parrots (Psephotus haematonotus).

Reproduction
In common with the hardy budgerigar, cockatiel reproduction is driven largely by rainfall. The usual breeding season extends from August to December, but they may nest as early as April if conditions are favorable. The ability to come into breeding condition on “short notice” may account for the egg-laying success (sometimes “over success!) of pet cockatiels and budgerigars. In captivity conditions are always good (hopefully!) and the birds take maximum advantage of this happy situation.

The Australian Avicultural Society has posted an informative article on cockatiel natural history at:
http://www.birds.org.au/cgi-bin/articles.pl?Cockatiel