That Bird Blog – Bird Care and History for Pet Birds

Despite the “love” part of their name, these tiny parrots (9 species in the genus Agapornis) are actually quite feisty and downright aggressive towards one another at times.  Introducing new birds is not easy, but once a pair forms the birds will be quite devoted to each other, and may well produce eggs.  Small size suits lovebirds well to indoor breeding, and renders them a logical choice for aviculturists with limited space.

Some Cautions

Before embarking on lovebird breeding, please bear in mind that this undertaking is not without its risks.  You may wind up with birds that do not get along, and if you keep more than 1 pair you will likely need separate facilities for the breeders (except perhaps in an outdoor aviary).

Health concerns may also arise – females may become egg bound, or produce too many clutches.  Also, even friendly, long-term pets usually become quite protective of their nests, and will remain aggressive towards you throughout the breeding season.

Distinguishing the Sexes

Unfortunately, males and females of the most commonly kept lovebirds – the peach-faced, Fischer’s and masked – are nearly indistinguishable by eye.  You will need to watch their behavior closely, or submit samples for DNA or feather sexing to be sure.

Abyssinian, Madagascar and red-faced lovebirds are sexually dimorphic, but these species are only infrequently kept as pets in the USA.

The Nest

Wild lovebirds nest in tree hollows or appropriate (sometimes forcibly ejecting the owners!) the nests of swifts and various weavers.  In captivity a specially designed lovebird nest box  will suit them well.  The nest should be positioned as high within the cage as is possible.

Wood shavings  should cover the floor of the box to a depth of 2-3 inches.  This will simplify cleaning and prevent the splay-legged condition that is often seen in chicks raised on hard surfaces.

Wild lovebirds repeatedly carry fresh bark into their nests, a habit which may increase humidity.  Captive lovebirds will readily utilize moistened cypress for this purpose.  Lightly spraying the female lovebird when she is out of the nest will also help in this regard (do not spray within the box itself).  Commercial nesting material should also be available.

Peach-faced and several other lovebirds tuck nesting material within their feathers to transport it to the nest…don’t miss watching this unique behavior if you have the opportunity.

The Eggs and Chicks

Female lovebirds usually lay their first egg 7-10 days after copulation, with an additional egg being produced at intervals of 1-2 days thereafter.  A full clutch consists of 4-7 eggs, and most females do not begin incubating until several eggs have been laid.

Usually, the hen sits and is fed by the male.  Male masked lovebirds, however, often sit near the hen, but it is not clear if they are actually doing anything useful, in terms of incubation!

The eggs hatch in 20-27 days, and the chicks leave the nest after 35-50 days.  They are fed by their parents for an additional 2 weeks after fledging, by which time they are usually completely independent.

Additional Reading

Please see my article on the Masked or Yellow-Collared Lovebird for information on the care and natural history of this and other lovebird species. 

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by TheAlphaWolf

It seems to me that finches are often “short-changed” when it comes to cage space. Their small size, especially when compared to other pet birds, seems to pre-dispose hobbyists to providing equally tiny living quarters. But the facts that a bird “fits” in a cage, and can move about somewhat, does not necessarily mean that we are providing it with an ideal environment.

Cage Size…an Alternative View

Rather than using your pet’s size as a factor in cage choice, I propose instead that you carefully consider its habits and natural history. For example, finches do not climb about as do parrots, and hence cages offer to them much less “useable space”. Whereas a parrot might clamber over every inch of its home – roof included – finches use mainly flying and ground space.

Also, finches explore and will utilize toys, but not to the extent seen in most parrots. They spend more time foraging and otherwise moving about, and hence have little to “occupy themselves” in a small cage… space therefore is key to their well-being.

Then too, many finches tend to be high strung, and are ill at ease when closely confined. It is very hard to hand-tame finches, or to induce breeding in tight quarters. As most finches are not given outside flight time, cage size and complexity are important factors in their husbandry.

A Finch Mansion

At just over 5 feet x 2 feet x 5 feet, the A&E Double Flight Bird Cage is the ultimate in luxury housing for finches. Available in 6 colors, it can also be divided to allow for introductions or when separate facilities are otherwise needed.

The .5 inch bar spacing renders this cage ideal for even the smallest of finches, but its design also permits the accommodation of cockatiels, parrotlets, lovebirds and parakeets.

Large Finches and Mixed Species Groups

The Double Flight Cage is an excellent choice for those seeking to provide finches of any kind with additional room, and is perfect for housing larger species such as Gouldian finches, bull finches and Java rice birds.

You can also use this cage to create a striking mixed-species display for compatible birds such as cordon bleus, golden-breasts and painted finches.

Nesting and Breeding

Additional space always improves ones chances of breeding captive birds. Ample room is particularly important for shy finches, and for those that become lethargic in small cages and reproduce most reliably in group situations (i.e. yellow-rumped and gray-headed munias).

For many of the more sensitive finches, a large flight cage is the only reasonable alternative to an outdoor aviary if breeding efforts are to be successful.

The Double Flight Cage is equipped with 2 doors that allow for the installation of nest boxes. Nesting sites so situated are outside of the cage and therefore will not restrict available flight space.

My most memorable observations of captive finches have taken place before large cages and outdoor aviaries. If you are serious about your birds, please consider providing them with as much space as possible.

Further Reading

Working with mixed species collections is a favorite pastime of mine, and one that hooks most who give it a try. Click here for more information concerning finch species that forage together in the wild.

Image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Jason L. Buberel.

Please see Part I of this article for a look at Gouldian finch (Erythrura gouldiae) natural history and emerging research items. I’ll cover the care of these popular beauties in a future article, but would like to point out a few of their unique requirements here.

Cage Size

Gouldian finches require more room than similarly-sized finches…there is some evidence that cramping may lead to metabolic disorders. Please provide yours with a large flight cage, or, if possible, an outdoor aviary.

Group-housing seems to stimulate reproductive success, another factor that favors using an outdoor aviary, but you’ll need to be aware of aggression in such situations.

Temperature

Hailing from a warm climate, Gouldian finches are rather cold-sensitive, and are best housed at temperatures of 75-78 F, with an ambient humidity of 50-75%.

Live Food and Protein

As mentioned above, Gouldians rely heavily upon insects as food for part of the year. Be sure to provide ample feedings of live insects and canned invertebrates (silkworms, grasshoppers, crickets, etc.). The Zoo Med Bug Napper, an effective insect trap, is a wise investment for the Gouldian finch owner.

Egg food, hard boiled egg and young sprouts are all appreciated as well.

Further Reading

For more information on adding insects to the diets of Gouldian and other finches, please see my article Feeding Insects to Pet Birds.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Martybugs

Please see Part I of this article for information on related health concerns.

Feather Cysts

Feather cysts form when feathers growing below the bird’s skin fail to emerge properly. They then curl back and continue to grow, forming elongated lumps at the base of one or several feathers. Secondary bacterial infection may set in, exacerbating the problem.

Feather cysts usually form at the base of the primary wing feathers, and are most commonly seen in budgerigars, canaries and macaws. They should be surgically removed by a veterinarian.

Swellings near the Cloaca

A swollen area just above the cloaca (the common opening for the digestive and respiratory systems in birds) is often indicative of a hernia. Usually related to stomach muscle atrophy, hernias are difficult to treat and require veterinary intervention.

Swellings below the cloaca may also indicate a hernia or, more commonly, a tumor. Egg-bound hen budgerigars and other birds will also appear swollen in this area, and may strain in an attempt to dispel the egg. Immediate veterinary attention is necessary.

Further Reading

Please check out the book Parakeets: a Complete Pet Owner’s Manuel for more information on parakeet care.

Image referenced from morguefile and originally posted by eviljeff.

People have mixed feelings about teaching budgerigars, macaws, cockatoos and other parrots to perform tricks.  Some claim that such is somehow “degrading” (to the bird, I assume!) while others consider training to be vital in forging a good relationship with one’s pet.  My experience with captive animals of all types has convinced me that, when properly carried out, trick training greatly improves the quality of life for parrots and other highly intelligent creatures.

In zoos, marine mammals and elephants are trained as a matter of course, in order to simplify veterinary examinations (i.e. when an elephant raises its foot to allow the pads to be seen) and to keep the animals occupied with stimulating activities.  Much the same is true for pet parrots.  The training process itself also helps to forge a bond between the parrot and its owner.

The First Trick

As a first trick, I highly recommend teaching your parrot to “shake hands”.  This behavior is merely an extension of one that many well-adjusted birds already perform – that of stepping up on your finger or arm.  If your bird has not yet mastered this, then please do not attempt to teach it any tricks at this point…such will only frustrate both yourself and the bird.  Please write in if you need further information.

To train your parrot to shake, you’ll need a cage-top or similar stand set up in a quiet, distraction free room.  Training should involve no punitive actions whatsoever…your parrot will be quick to make the association and will lose interest.  Improper responses should be ignored, favorable actions rewarded with a small treat.  The treat used should be hidden from the bird’s view until needed, and should not be part of your pet’s normal diet.

Timing and Progress

Training sessions should last for at least 10 minutes, and, ideally, should be terminated before your parrot becomes bored and loses interest.  As you come to know and understand your parrot’s personality, you will become adept at judging when to end a training session.

Although some parrots exhibit amazing abilities to retain what they have learned, for most the road is bumpy at best.  Progress is rarely made on a predictable basis…be prepared for a “1 step forward, 2 (or 3-4!) steps backward” type experience.  Your patience is key… do not attempt a training session when you are ill or under time pressure.  Much like infants, parrots are very much attuned to subtle cues, and will pick up on and respond to your mood.

“Shaking Hands”

To teach a parrot to shake hands, first touch its foot while saying “shake hands”.  As soon as the foot is lifted, praise the bird and provide a small treat.

Once the bird consistently raises its foot on cue, begin to gently grasp the foot and shake it.  At this stage, provide praise and a reward only after the bird allows you to shake, not when it lifts the foot.

Practice in various locations, gradually increasing the types and degrees of distractions to which the parrot is exposed when given the “shake hands” command.

Further Reading

An amusing article on the Cincinnati Zoo’s famous singing Amazon parrot, which leads fans in song at local ballgames, is posted at:

http://www.cincinnatizoo.org/pdfs/2008OpeningDayParade.pdf

Please also check out our extensive line of parrot care books http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/cat/infoL3/22315/category.web.