That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

Seahorses have long been one of the icons of the aquarium hobby, with graceful movements and a delicate, unusual appearance. Seahorses are members of a family of fish known as Sygnathids, meaning “spiny-finned fish”. Other members of the family include Sea Dragons and Pipefish. They each have a small tubular snout that enables them to suck in prey items like brine shrimp, copepods, and other similar crustaceans. Seahorses and their relatives are timid and slow-moving. They are most often found in beds or sea grass where they can use their tails to anchor themselves to the grass or corals and not be carried off by the current. Seahorses bear live young that are carried in a pouch, similar to a Kangaroo, until they are mature enough to be released.

A couple of years ago, seahorses were a rather common offering in Aquarium Stores nationwide. Seahorses have long been one of the icons of the aquarium hobby, with graceful movements and a delicate, unusual appearance. In recent years, the with the technical advancements in aquarium keeping, environments can be created to more easily and better suited to keeping these amazing fish. The possibility of keeping sea horses is more within reach than ever. But where have they gone?

In 2004, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) upgraded the status of Seahorse species to “vulnerable” meaning that the seahorse populations are in danger of a 30% decrease due to targeted catch, accidental capture, and habitat loss. One of the biggest threats to these species is the high demand for their dried bodies in Asian and Southeast Asian medicine trades. Climate changes and habitat destruction are also taking huge tolls on these interesting and amazing little creatures.

With growing awareness and increased conservation efforts, captive breeding programs for these animals are growing in number and are becoming increasingly successful. If you’re lucky enough to venture into keeping them in a home aquarium, strive to purchase captive raised individuals. By doing so, stress on wild populations can be reduced, and these animals tend to adapt to aquarium conditions and diets with more ease than wild-caught specimens. Be sure to check out the related articles in the blog for more fascinating facts and tips on keeping these guys at home.

Thanks, Eileen

Hi Dave here,

I thought it was about time to post an update to the blog about the 700 gallon reef tank here at TFP. The tank is really starting to mature nicely, and we have seen some really nice growth from the corals in the tank.

For all the particulars of the tank, refer back to the original blog, the details of the tank, lighting, and filtration are discussed in detail. No need to rehash them here.

The tank has been running for about a year now, and things have gone very well. I wanted to post a few new pics of the tank so that you can see the changes since then. We have added a few new items into the tank since the original blog back in August of 2008. The majority of the corals that we put into the tank, originated from captive sources, or frags from our own propagation system, it has been really cool to watch them fill in and grow into larger colonies.

If anyone has any questions about the tank, please ask, I would be happy to explain what I can.

Until next blog
Dave

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. 

Known by as many as twenty common names, including rough fish and Chinese high-finned banded shark (Myxocyprinus asiaticus), this unusual Chinese import is the subject of much confusion…both as to its natural history and care in captivity.  One thing is certain – this often over-looked oddity is among the hardiest and most interesting fishes that one might add to an outdoor goldfish or koi pond. Check out a picture here.

Natural History

Chinese sailfin suckers are believed to be endemic (found nowhere else) to the Yangtze and Minjiang River Basins in China.  Yet rumors persist that the fish is native to Japan as well, and for a time the populations there were considered to be a distinct subspecies.  Most authorities now consider the subspecies status to be invalid, but there is no consensus as to the origin of the animals living in Japanese waters (I imagine they are feral, introduced from China).

Recent studies indicate that this fish makes extensive breeding migrations, and that its continued survival in China is threatened by dam building and over-harvesting for the food trade.

Care in Captivity

The confusion as to the care of the Chinese sailfin arises from the lack of basic information concerning its natural history.  Fueled perhaps by its “exotic” appearance, this fish is generally sold as a tropical species for inclusion in home aquariums.  In truth it favors water of 62-70 F (although it is tolerant of higher temperatures), may reach 24 inches in length (39 inches by some accounts) and can over-winter under ice in water of sufficient depth.

Chinese sailfins are, therefore, much better suited to an outdoor pond than an aquarium.  Clad in tones ranging from golden-brown to rusty-pink (breeding males are red, females dark purple) and with 3 broad, dark vertical bands, an enormous triangular dorsal fin and comically small head, this bottom-dweller is quite a sight! 

It does best in groups, is peaceful in the extreme, and fares well on a diet of Koi or Goldfish Pellets and Algae Wafers  (they are decidedly vegetarian in their food preferences).

Other Unusual Pond Fishes

Chinese sailfin suckers present no difficulties over and above what you might encounter in keeping koi or goldfish outdoors, and will add a great deal of character and interest to your pond. 

Native fishes also present fine opportunities to expand upon your collection of “outdoor fishes”…some mix well with typical pond fish, and without exception all are very interesting.  The cutlips minnows and burbots pictured here, while not very colorful, are fascinating to keep and very hardy.  Please look for my articles on keeping native fishes in the future.

Further Reading

A synopsis of what little field research has been done with this fish is presented in Current Zoology.

 

Please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Please see Parts I and II of this article for general information and for details concerning the care of elephant nosed and butterfly fishes.

Dwarf Clawed or African Dwarf Underwater Frog, Hymenochirus boettgeri, H. curtipes

This tiny (males to 1 inch, females to 1.4 inches) aquatic frog is a real pleasure to keep.  It is perpetually on the prowl, sticking its pointed little head into every nook and cranny in its ceaseless search for food.  A group so engaged is really quite comical to behold…they look like nothing so much as squadron of tiny, flattened divers!

Habitat and Habits

Dwarf clawed frogs move slowly about the aquarium bottom and among the plants, and save “free swimming” for trips to the surface for air.  In deep aquariums, they do best when provided with “ladders” to the surface in the form of (preferably live) plants.  They are at their best in heavily planted aquariums, and will utilize every square inch available to them. 

Small size and bold demeanors render these frogs ideal observation subjects. It is quite easy to provide them with a habitat in which they will reveal to you nearly all of their natural behaviors, and captive reproduction is not uncommon.  Dwarf clawed frogs are not favored aquarium animals in the USA, due largely to the fact that they are usually kept improperly.  Typically housed in bare tanks with active fishes that out-compete them for food, they usually expire in short order. 

Feeding Dwarf Clawed Frogs

In addition to dense cover, dwarf clawed frogs need a varied diet of small, live invertebrates.  Blackworms can account for up to 75% of their food intake, supplemented whenever possible with live brine shrimp (brine shrimp alone are not an appropriate diet), whiteworms, bloodworms, mosquito larvae and similarly-sized aquatic organisms.  Newborn guppies may be taken by particularly large individuals.  I’ve had my best breeding results when I provided my frogs with occasional meals of pond-seined fairy shrimp and other tiny invertebrates.

I have not had much success in inducing dwarf clawed frogs to accept non-living food items, but others have reported good results with some individuals.  I suggest that you feed them as described above, but experiment with Reptomin Select-A-Food  (freeze dried and pelleted components), freeze-dried fish foods  (mysis shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms) and frozen mosquito larvae.

As dwarf clawed frogs feed largely by day and elephant nosed fishes by night, competition for live blackworms is rarely a problem.

A Unique Hunting Strategy

Dwarf clawed frogs use a suction-based feeding technique, unique among amphibians, to capture their prey.  The tiny hunters lunge forward while extending the front limbs and opening the mouth, after which the body is recoiled.  Like other members of the family Pipidae (African clawed frogs, Surinam toads), dwarf clawed frogs are tongue-less.

Hybrids and Feral Frogs

Only Hymenochirus boettgeri and, to lesser extend, H. curtipes, appear in the trade; there is some evidence of hybridization between the two.  H. boettgeri has been introduced to Florida and is apparently well established.

An Important Distinction

It is important that you are able to distinguish this frog from young African clawed frogs (Xenopus laevis).  The two are frequently housed together in pet stores….Xenopus grows quite large and will consume smaller frogs, fishes and shrimp.

In dwarf clawed frogs, the appendages of all 4 limbs (fingers and toes) are webbed; Xenopus possesses webbed feet only.  Dwarf frogs are also more flattened in body form, and their heads are very narrow, nearly “pointed”.

Giant African Fan Shrimp, Atya gabonensis

This stoutly-built West African native is bound to become more popular as time goes on.  Built more along the lines of a crayfish than a shrimp, yet completely benign toward tank-mates, it feeds by sweeping food into its mouth with feathery appendages.  Fan shrimp are quite social in nature, with groups often sharing the same shelter even when others are available. 

The Importance of Shelter

I have found African fan shrimp to be compatible with the other animals mentioned in this article, provided that they have access to secure shelters.  They seem to be very much “home oriented”, and become quite stressed when their retreats are disturbed in any way. 

Be sure to supply your shrimp with caves and other such hideaways that will not be disturbed by foraging elephant- nosed fishes (the other species pose no concerns), and do not move the shelters once they have been occupied.  Small rock dens  or Mopani wood shelters  are ideal.

Please see my article on the Natural History and Care of African Fan Shrimp  for husbandry details.

I was recently told of an unusually large (possibly 8 inch) fan shrimp that was residing in a local pet shop.  I went to see the animal, only to find that it had expired and had been discarded.  Please write in if you have observed fan shrimp larger than 5 inches or so – we have a great deal to learn about this animal…perhaps there is more than 1 species in the trade.

Further Reading

You can read more about the dwarf clawed frog and its relatives at http://research.amnh.org/herpetology/amphibia/names.php?taxon=&family=&subfamily=&genus=hymenochirus&commname=&authority=&year=&geo=0&dist=&comment=.

 

Please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Essential Nutrients for the Planted Aquarium

Brandon here. Anyone who gardens or keeps houseplants knows that plants need a boost once in awhile to look their best and maintain lush, consistant, healthy growth.  Aquarium plants are no exception, but it may be difficult to decide which supplement to use.  Here is an overview of some of the components you may see in the supplements, and what they do to help you along in your aquatic gardening. 

*In order of highest to lowest required concentration

Macronutrients

• Nitrogen: Used for formation of amino acids, protein, DNA, and various other functions such as osmoregulation and nutrient uptake. Deficiencies result in stunted growth and cell death.
• Potassium: Important in breaking down carbohydrates for protein production.
• Used in production of seeds and fruits.
•  Important for overall plant growth.
• Generally not harmful if overdosed
• Calcium: Used as a signaling mechanism for environmental stress.
• Excess calcium interferes with phosphorous and can lead to health problems.
• Magnesium: The central molecule in chlorophyll. Also used for enzyme activation.
• Phosphorous: Used in DNA and RNA to hold base pairs. Also found in Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) and ADP, which is used for energy storage and transport. Nitrogen and phosphorous are the two most important elements found in plants.
• Deficiencies result in stunted growth and cell death.
• Sulfur: Used to create certain amino acids.
• Deficiencies usually indicated by decreased or stunted growth and yellowing of entire plant. Low levels of sulfur are required for plants health.

Micronutrients

• Chlorine: Used for chemical signals between cells. Also used in opening and closing of stomatal guard cells (important in terrestrial plants).
• Iron: Used as an electron acceptor and donator in photosynthesis. Also used in the creation of new chlorophyll molecules.
• Iron deficiencies are indicated by yellowing leaves. The plant cannot function without iron and the processes it is involved in, and can die from stress.
• An excess of iron can result in a build-up of free radicals within the plants tissues, which damages cells and DNA and can also lead to plant death. In the aquarium an excess of iron can be readily absorbed by algae which can result in algae blooms.
• Boron: Enzyme activator used for making starch, which is used in the production of cellulose.
• Used for sugar transport to meristems (the parts of the plants where new growth forms).
• Manganese: Enzyme activator. Needed for the production of chlorophyll.
• Zinc: Enzyme activator. Required for leaf formation.
• Deficiencies result in what is called “little leaf” syndrome.
• An excess of zinc interferes with metabolic function and may result in plant death.
• Copper: Enzyme activator.
• Inhibits shoot and root growth when overdosed. Also interferes with electron transport during plant metabolism. Can result in plant death.
• Molybdenum: Important in the reduction of nitrates, which provides nitrogen for the creation of proteins.
• Nickel: Enzyme activator. Used in breaking down urea.
• Inhibits shoot and root growth when overdosed. Can result in plant death.

Other non-mineral elements required for plant growth:

• Carbon: usually acquired from carbon dioxide through photosynthesis. Found in sugars, carbohydrates, starch, and every part of the plant.
• Oxygen: acquired through photosynthesis, respiration, and from water. Also found in sugars, carbohydrates, starch, and every cell of the plant.
• Hydrogen: acquired through photosynthesis, respiration, and water. Again, essential compound in the makeup of sugar, starch, carbohydrates, and cellular structures.

Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen are the most prominent elements found in plants (found in the highest concentrations). Because they are readily available from the aquarium water they do not need to be supplemented (with the exception of carbon which can be added to the aquarium with a CO₂ reactor).

Hopefuly this helps clear up some of the confusion with planted tank supplementation.

Brandon