A recent news article brought an old debate back to our attention here at That Fish Place – how far is too far to go to get a “unique” fish for your aquarium? The article discusses the recent trend in the Chinese aquarium market for tattooed fish believed to bring luck and prosperity to their owners. The fish in the article are Parrotfish, a fish that is already considered a hybrid of other South and Central American cichlids. These fish are being laser-tattooed with designs or Chinese characters like “luck”, “happiness”, or “May your business boom,” the article states. This tattooing is done much like that on a person and can severely damage the scales and body of the fish. I’ve seen and heard of other fish in the international aquarium trade that have been tattooed in a similar way, like Giant Gouramis and mollies.

Similarly, “Jelly Bean Parrots” have also been available in the trade. These fish are usually brightly colored in shades of green, blue, pink or purple – a process often done by first dipping the fish in an acidic solution for a short time to remove their protective slime coating, then dipping them in a dye solution. This process is not permanent and usually fades over a few months, and the mortality rates of these fish during the dying process is very high. Some other fish like tetras (some are often known as “Stained Glass Tetras” or “Painted Glass Tetras”) are also dyed in a similar way or injected with dyes to give them their bright, artificial colors.

Here at That Fish Place, we make every effort to avoid carrying fish that are the product of unethical practices like the dying or tattooing of fish but unfortunately where there is a demand, there will still be a supply in some areas. While some fish that seem unbelievably brightly colored are the product of selective breeding and are completely healthy, others have been through a lot to get that way. As a general rule: if you see a fish that doesn’t appear to be a “natural” color for that type of fish or the color seems to good to be true, ask if it is! Practices like this will only stop if we, as ethical aquarists, ban together to speak against them.

 http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,25926147-13762,00.html

Eileen here. With all of the water changes, filter changes, feedings, testing, supplements and other changes and maintenance we do on our aquariums, it can be difficult to remember what was done and when. Some problems with aquarium systems as well as regular maintenance are dependent on what has been happening with the tanks over time, not just within the very recent past. This is just one of the reasons that make it important to keep a record of the every day maintenance of the system as well as any other events that may have an impact on the health of the fish.

Keeping records of any activity with an aquarium system is not a new idea. Almost every public aquarium keeps records of everything that goes into or out of their water – this is even required by some scientific organizations to keep the aquarium’s certification or grants. Their records and even the records kept by stores like That Fish Place/ That Pet Place are obviously going to be very detailed than the average home aquarist might need, but it is a good idea to take their lead and keep track of your aquarium. You can use a computer program like Excel or Word  if you’d like, or you can simply keep a notepad and pen with your aquarium supplies.

So what should you record? The types of events you should keep track of can be divided into a few main categories: Water Chemistry, Maintenance, and Livestock.

l  Water Chemistry recordings would be the results of any regular water tests done on your tank (pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, salinity, temperature, etc) as well as the dosages of any supplements or medications you add to the aquarium.

l  Maintenance records keep track of regular maintenance (water changes, light bulb changes, filter pad changes or cleanings) as well as any out-of-the-ordinary events like a new heater or a malfunctioning piece of equipment.

l  Livestock records help you keep track of what live fish, plants or invertebrates you are adding to your aquarium and what you are removing from the tank or lose due to deaths or illness. You can also make observations about any unusual behavior you are noticing in the livestock, symptoms of illnesses, what the fish are (or are not) eating, even their sizes from time to time to see how quickly they are growing.

l  Other events: It is also a good idea to keep track of any other unusual events that may affect your aquarium. Power outages, heat waves, cold spells, and other events that may not have an immediate affect on the aquarium can cause changes in the aquarium a few days or weeks later that can be traced back through your records. Even a houseful of guests can be important to record if it changes the activity around the aquarium or the feeding schedule of the fish.

Getting into the habit of keeping a few notes on your aquarium can make difference in the long run. After all, some of us have a hard time remembering what we had for dinner last week, much less when we last changed that light bulb, when we added that new invert to the tank or how well a certain fish has been feeding! A running record of some of these details can help refresh your memories, as well as keep track of your progress in the aquarium hobby.

Along these same lines, Current-USA offers a free downloadable computer widget to keep track of aquarium maintanance schedules. Working in conjuction with your records, the two together can go a long way toward helping you maintain a healthy system.

Until next time,

Eileen

Hey everyone, Eileen again with a quick and interesting bit of news!

One of our former TFP colleagues recently shared with us an exciting experience, and I wanted to pass it along. Erica Palmer, an assistant curator at Coral World in St. Thomas and a former That Fish Place Fish Room Supervisor, knew that the story would peak our interests, and she is sooo lucky for being able to be a part of it.

During my college days, I participated in loggerhead sea turtle nesting studies and research along the South Carolina coast. Our volunteers would walk the beach every morning looking for the telltale “crawl”, the tracks made by the female turtle as she crawled up the beach to lay her nest, but we very rarely ever caught a glimpse of the turtle in action.

Visitors to a beach resort in the Virgin Islands got to witness the proverbial “Holy Grail” of turtle nestings when a very rare Leatherback Turtle crawled right up to the line of beach chairs in front of guests and hotels workers alike to lay her eggs!  Erica  is quoted in an article as saying that the rare late season nest is likely the last one that this turtle had the urge to lay before heading back out to sea to the turtles’ feeding grounds. The nest is now under surveillance by the resort to help keep the eggs safe. The nest is due to hatch in mid to late September.  I hope she sends us an update!

Visit the article on National Geographic’s website for more information on this exciting event: http://blogs.nationalgeographic.com/blogs/news/chiefeditor/2009/07/leatherback-turtle-virgin-islands.html

Eileen here.

One of the most iconic images of a jellyfish, the one most people think of, is that of a dome-shaped animal with long flowing tentacles drifting through the water. For the aquarium community however, this is not the one that we usually see in our tanks. A far more common aquarium jellyfish is the Upside-down Jellyfish.

There are about five different species of Upside-down Jellyfish, found mostly in the Caribbean and tropical western Atlantic Ocean. One of these species in particular, Cassiopea andromeda, has made its way to the Hawaiian Islands and seems to have established itself as a nuisance in waters around the state. It is another species, Cassiopea frondosa, that is usually found in the aquarium trade.

All jellyfish are planktonic by nature, meaning they move with the flow of the water instead of swimming against it. The Upside-down Jellyfish does not actually live in the water column like most other jellyfish. Instead, they use their bell much like an anemone uses its foot to attach to the bottom of a shallow environment like a lagoon, mangrove swamp or sand flat. While this attachment isn’t nearly as strong as an anemone, it helps the jellyfish to remain relatively stationary with its tentacles pointed up towards the surface.  The bell will often pulsate slightly to create a weak water flow over its tentacles which the jellyfish uses to filter-feed small food particles from the water. Upside-down jellyfish also have stinging cells known as nematocysts on its tentacles which it can use to stun larger prey. This feeding helps supplement its diet, but most of the jellyfish’s nutrition comes from the symbiotic algae in its tissue. The sunlight filtering through the water feeds the algae, which in turn produces food for the jellyfish while the jellyfish provides protection for the algae by keeping it alive in its tissue.

Upside-down Jellyfish are one of the easiest types of jellyfish to keep in home aquariums but still require special care and attention. As these animals can reach a diameter of almost a foot across, they should have plenty of flat, open sandy area to spread out. They also need very bright light to feed the algae in its tissue as well as periodic target feeding with foods like brine shrimp, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, zooplankton, phytoplankton and dissolved organic foods. The flow in the tank should be moderately low and any filter intakes should have some sort of covering to make sure the jellyfish doesn’t get sucked up by the current. The stinging cells on their tentacles can also harm other tankmates; do not keep with any shrimp, gobies or other invertebrate or small fish that can become food! These nematocysts can also sting aquarists so take care not to come into contact with the tentacles.

The flower-like appearance, unusual behavior and relatively easy care are making this jellyfish gain in popularity among home aquarists. With some extra TLC and research, Upside-down Jellyfish can truly be a unique addition to a home aquarium!

There are four main categories that fish diseases can be divided into: Bacterial, Fungal, Parasitic, and Environmental. Some conditions can be caused by more than one of these (like secondary fungal infections at the site of a bacterial infection, or bacterial infections caused by poor water conditions) and identifying the cause of the issue is often important to helping to resolve it. 

Some general information on these types of conditions:

Bacterial Infections:  Bacterial infections are some of the most common and widespread conditions in aquariums. They may looks like a rough white coating, red patches or red sores, frayed or deteriorating fins, cloudy eyes or other similar visible symptoms depending on the exact bacteria. The edges of sores may be white and fuzzy, especially in the case of a secondary fungal infection also affecting the site. General bacterial infections are usually caused by a wound or injury, or poor water conditions like high Ammonia or low pH. They may be worse in fish already stressed by transport, bullying by tankmates or poor or improper water parameters. It is important to get rid of any causes of the infection or any conditions that may be making it worse. ALWAYS test the water quality to make sure the pH and temperature are appropriate and the Ammonia and Nitrite levels are zero or very minimal; fix any levels that are off before attempting to treat or medicate. If the water quality is good, a medication can be used if necessary. Some infections will clear up on their own once the conditions are improved but some mild medications or dietary supplements can help the healing. In severe cases or with some tankmates, a stronger medication might be needed and should be done in a separate quarantine system.

Fungal Infections:  Fungal infections usually look like a cottony patch on a fish, particularly around the edges of a wound. Waste like leftover food can also grow a fungus, as can ornaments that are improperly cleaned. Using some air fresheners, cleaners or oils in the vicinity of the tank can also cause a white coating to grow on surfaces. It looks like tufts of cotton and can appear anywhere on the fish, particularly around an existing wound. Fungal infections are usually a secondary condition that appears because the fish is already weakened by another problem. Slow-moving fish like Bettas are vulnerable to a body fungus if the water is too cold for the fish to remain active or if the fish’s metabolism is slowed. Wounds may have a secondary fungal infection around the edges, especially if the water is dirty. Waste or decorations may grow a fungal coating if the water flow is too low to move the waste so it can be removed by the filtration. Improve the water flow, temperature, water conditions or other parameters that may be allowing the fungus to grow. Medication can be used in some cases but most mild fungal infections will clear up on their own once the cause is addressed. 

Parasites: Parasites in general are one of the most common aquarium maladies next to unsuitable water conditions. Parasites by definition are any organism that requires a host organism to live, often to the detriment of that host and may lead to the death of the host. The size of parasites varies greatly from tiny organisms like those responsible for Ich and Marine Velvet, to larger crustaceans and worms like flukes, anchor worms or fish lice. These parasites can also be external (living on the outside of the body of the fish) or internal (living inside the fish, often in organs like the digestive system). Common signs of parasites are rapid breathing, weight loss, white feces, sores or a flicking or scratching behavior against rocks and surfaces. Different parasites require different treatments and treatment methods and so should be carefully diagnosed before medicating or treatments.

Environmental Stress/Biological Conditions: Environmental stress can result from improper water conditions (temperature, pH, salinity, etc.), unsuitable decor (too much or too little vegetation or decorations, too intense or dim lighting, etc.) or exterior conditions like activity in the room around the tank or vibrations caused by an unstable surface or tapping on the tank. Some biological conditions like poor nutrition, improper diet or poor breeding can cause problems as well. Some of these stresses can be easily fixed while others can be more difficult. Poor health or unusual behavior (including jumping from or trying to jump from the tank) can hint towards something wrong with the fish’s environment. Researching all choices for an aquarium and observing behavior regularly can help an aquarist to notice these problems.

Some more specific diseases and conditions that aquarists commonly encounter: 

(  B  : Bacterial,  F  : Fungal,  P  : Parasitic, E : Environmental/Biological) 

Ammonia Burn ( E ) : As the name suggests, this is a burn-like injury caused by highly acidic ammonia build-up. Ammonia can cause open wounds on a fish’s body or damage to sensitive structures like their gills. These excessive ammonia levels are commonly caused by poor filtration or overstocking with too many fish or fish too large for the tank. Treatment includes eliminating the cause of the high ammonia level, neutralizing or removing the ammonia, and treating the wounds if necessary to avoid infection. 

Aeromonas ( B ): Aeromonas infections are caused by several species of bacteria that are opportunistic and will affect organisms with weakened immune systems. It can affect fish, amphibians and even humans in some cases. Koi and other pond fish are vulnerable to Aeromonas infections during the early spring and summer when temperature fluctuations can leave them vulnerable and weakened. Aeromonas attack organs and will digest gelatin and hemoglobin cells. It often appears as deep open sores on the body of a fish as well as causing severe weight loss as it attacks the internal organs. Aeromonas bacteria is very resistant to most medications and can be very difficult to treat. Strong gram-negative bacterial medications both in the water and in food treatments can be used. Injections are also sometimes used by veterinarians and biologists to treat larger fish.

“Black Ich” or “Black Spot” ( P ): This disease is a parasite infection caused by flatworms. It mainly affects tangs and surgeonfish and appears as small dark spots on the body of the tang. The fish may also flick or scratch against surfaces or may be less active than normal. The flatworm lays eggs on the body of the fish and drops off within a few days, leaving the eggs to hatch on the fish a few days after that. Treatment for Black Ich can include freshwater baths or antiparasitic medications with active ingredients like formalin.

Brooklynella ( P ): This parasitic infection is also known as “Anemonefish Disease” or “Clownfish Disease” due to its most common victim. It is a protozoan that usually spreads very quickly and is almost always fatal and has no commercially-effective treatments. It can first be seen as a fine sheen on the affected fish – usually newly captured or transported fish – but soon evolves to signs of physical stress to the fish, difficulty breathing, and excessive slime coat production. As this slime coat sloughs off the fish, it can spread the protozoans throughout a system to prompt quarantine of an infected fish is absolutely important. All tank equipment should be cleaned and sterilized well as well to avoid spreading the disease. As I mentioned, there are no medications that are known to be very effective on these protozoans, but medications like those containing formalehyde, malachite green and and methylene blue used in a quarantine tank can help. Do not use freshwater dips with this infection.

Columnaris/”Mouth & Tail Rot” ( B, F ): With this bacterial infection, the “tips” of the fish – lips, mouth, and tail – are affected first. They develop a milky-white coating and appear to “rot away”. It may be accompanied by a cottony-looking secondary fungal infection. In some fish – Rainbowfish especially – the gram-negative Columnaris bacteria responsible for this condition cause saddle-like patches starting at the back and dorsal fin and extending down the sides of the fish. Both of these forms may appear at the same time or you may only see one at a time. Poor water quality or sudden changes to their environment can leave fish vulnerable to this bacteria. It is important to improve any of these negative conditions before treating, and if medicating, be sure to use a medication for gram-negative bacteria. 

Dropsy ( B, E ): This is an internal condition that causes multi-organ failure, and is very difficult to treat. It is usually caused by an internal bacterial infection that causes the fish to retain fluids internally but can be brought on by other conditions or environmental stress. The fish often look like “pine-cones”, with their scales sticking out, off of their body. They are often listless, won’t eat, and sit at the bottom or in one area of the aquarium. Remove this fish as soon as you can and treat it in a quarantine tank! If the fish is eating, treat its food with an antibiotic. If not, treat the tank water with a strong antibiotic and hope for the best. If dropsy isn’t caught in its early stages (lethargy, swollen abdomen, swimming in a bizarre manner) it is almost always fatal.

“Fin Rot” ( B, F, E ): Fin rot can be more of a symptom than a disease in some cases (outside of the Columnaris/ “Mouth & Tail Rot” described above) and is essentially just what the name describes. The fins on the fish, most often first noticed in the caudal (tail) fin, will appear to be rotting away and may be red and ragged. The fins may also appear white as a secondary fungal infection sets in in some cases. This is usually caused by a bacterial infection and can be the result of bullying or fin-nipping tankmates or poor water conditions. The cause of the condition should be address (water quality improved or aggressive tankmate removed) and the fish can be treated with an antibiotic or antibacterial medication.

Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) ( E, P ): Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) is seen mostly in saltwater tangs and angelfish but other fish are also susceptible. Another similar condition, known as Hole-in-the-head, is very similar in appearance but mainly affects large cichlids and freshwater fish. With HLLE, the area around the head and eyes and the length of the lateral line down each side of the fish’s body becomes pitted and can appear to be rotting away. While not usually fatal in itself, HLLE can cause permanent scarring and is a symptom of a more serious and ongoing condition like poor nutrition. Fish like tangs that are especially vulnerable to this condition should be fed a varied diet high in fresh macroalgae. Vitamin supplements can also be helpful. Some research suggests that HLLE can also be caused at least in part by other stresses like some flagellate parasites or stray electrical current.

Hole-in-the-head Disease ( E, P ): Hole-in-the-head is very similar to HLLE, described above. Some aquarists argue that these two names refer to the freshwater and saltwater versions of the same condition since they share some of the same causes and symptoms. Hole-in-the-head is found mostly with large cichlids like Oscars and Discus but can affect other fish as well. Like HLLE, the main cause is usually linked to improper diet or water conditions and adding vitamin supplements and a varied diet can often help stop and reverse some of the effects of the disease. Hole-in-the-head is also attributed more to parasite infections than HLLE, specifically protozoans.

“Ich” ( P ): Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, also known as Ich, Ick, or White Spot, is one of the most common and well-known conditions in the aquarium hobby. Many aquarists incorrectly diagnose problems with their aquarium as ich when it is actually another condition. Ich is a parasite that affects freshwater fish (as opposed to the similar Cryptocaryon that affects saltwater fish but has an almost identical appearance, symptoms and treatment). Ich appears as small white spots on the body of the fish. These spots look like grains of salt as opposed to the cottony tufts of fungal infections, the dust-like appearance of oodinium or some bacterial infections or the pits associated with Hole-in-the-head and HLLE. The fish may stop eating, may scratch and rub against surfaces, and may appear lethargic. Treatments include increasing temperature, adding vitamin and garlic supplements, freshwater or saltwater “dips”, and a score of medications. The parasite also has a life cycle that allows it to remain dormant in an aquarium or on a fish for weeks at a time before blooming when triggered by environmental conditions or the fish’s immune system being weakened by stress or anther condition. Some medications available to treat ich are not safe for all fish or for invertebrates; be sure to choose the medication suitable for your aquarium. 

Internal Parasites ( P ): Internal parasites can be diagnosed externally by white, stringy feces and a sunken stomach or eyes as the parasite steals the nutrients from the fish. Internal parasite – most commonly types of worms – can affect the fish most commonly from infected live or fresh foods. External medications that are added to the water are less effective on internal parasites. It is best to treat the fish’s food by soaking the food in a medicated solution before feeding. Garlic supplements and other vitamins also may help expel the parasite and help the fish replenish its nutrients and fight off the parasite on its own. 

“Lymph” (Virus): Lymphocystis, commonly known as “lymph”, is a virus that affects both freshwater and saltwater fish. This virus forms white cauliflower-like growths on the fins and body of the fish and can cause white patches around the eyes. It usually develops when the immune system of the fish is weakened due to poor nutrition or water quality. Being a virus, there is no reliable medication to treat it but improving the conditions and diet will help to boost the fish’s natural immune system and can help the fish fight it on their own. Some sources recommend removing the nodules by scraping them from the body or fins; this can be a dangerous approach that may lead to excessive stress and secondary infections. Lymph is not usually fatal and often may clear up on its own as the fish fights off the virus.

Marine Velvet/ Oodinium ( P ): Marine Velvet, also known as Oodinium, is caused by the parasite Amyloodinium ocellatum. This is one of the most fatal parasitic infections as it is very contagious and resistant to most medications. Marine Velvet looks like a very fine velvety coating on the fish as opposed to the salt-like spotting of Ich. The fish may also breathe rapidly and have cloudy eyes. Quarantine and treat any affected fish as soon as possible with a strong antiparasitic treatment like copper sulfates. The salinity can also be lowered and a UV sterilizer can be used to help kill the parasites.

“Neon Tetra Diseases” (NTD) ( P ):  Despite the common name, this condition affects many more species than just Neon Tetras; most freshwater fish like tetras, danios, rasboras, rainbowfish and more can be affected. It typically first appears like a saddle extending around the dorsal fin on the back of the fish similar to the Columnaris infection described above. Rather than the fuzzy, wispier look to Columnaris patches, NTD looks more like the color and scales have been “erased” from the area. The fish may swim erratically or its body may start to appear bend downward at the spine.  NTD is caused by a Microsporidian parasite. This is an internal parasite that starts affecting the fish from the inside rather than the external parasites like Ich more commonly encountered. This parasite can be highly contagious and is usually spread by eating infested foods or fishflesh. There is no effective treatment for this condition. Once a fish shows symptoms, it is best to move it into a separate quarantine system or euthanize it to avoid spreading the parasite to other fish. 

Pop-eye ( B, E ): Like the name suggests, “pop-eye” is a condition in which one or both eyes of the fish appear to be swollen and popping out of the socket. This can result from a bacterial infection, poor water quality, injury or in rare cases a gas pocket in the eye socket. This is typically a symptom of an underlying condition like poor water quality and is difficult to treat specifically. Anti-bacterial medications may help but the water quality and any other possible causes should be addresses as well. Pop-eye may often clear on its own but may lead to decreased vision in the affected eye.

Scar Tissue/Cysts ( E ):  Sometimes confused with Ich, these irregular lumps are usually only along the spines in the fins. They are caused by a blood vessel blockage or scar tissue due to broken spines, poor breeding, poor water quality, or stress. It can sometimes – but not usually – be an early sign of or lead to a secondary disease like Fin Rot. They are usually seen in fish with larger fins like Angelfish, Guppies, Bettas or selectively-bred longfin varieties of other fish. Usually benign and harmless, they are not usually treatable but usually disappear on their own.

Septicemia ( B, E ): Septicemia is an infection in the blood. The infection itself is bacterial but usually occurs when a fish is left vulnerable due to poor water conditions. It appears as red streaks in the fins and body and open sores or deteriorating fins in more severe cases. Any environmental conditions like poor water quality must be improved and resolved as quickly as possible. External bacterial medications in the water may help but pretreating the food with medication and using internal bacterial medications is more effective. Catching this infection as soon as possible drastically improves survival rates.

Swim Bladder Infection/Disorders ( E ): This condition is seen mostly in fancy goldfish, balloon mollies and other fish bred for a similar “chubby” body shape. The swim bladder in fish is used to help control buoyancy (the up and down motion) through gas exchange within the fish’s body. The fish is considered “neutrally buoyant” when it is able to hover in the water without floating up or sinking down. If the fish is unable to achieve buoyancy, it may float, sink or be unable to swim properly or remain upright in the water. This may be the result of an internal bacterial infection that can be treated with some medications. Some fish, especially fancy goldfish, may gulp air at the surface will feeding and have similar issues caused by air in their digestive systems. Feeding them fresh greens like peas or zucchini may help get rid of this bubble.