That Bird Blog – Bird Care and History for Pet Birds

When we think of tame birds, it is most often the parrots and mynas that come to mind. Canaries and other finches, on the other hand, are largely thought of as pets to enjoy for their bright colors, active ways and cheerful songs. To a great extent, these perceptions hold true…but not entirely. Just as there are parrots that would frustrate the patience of famed animal trainer Gunther-Gable Williams himself, there are finches that become wonderfully tame and trusting.

Good Candidates

Most who have tried to tame finches agree that canaries and the closely-related green singing finches make the best candidates. Their calm demeanors, modified by thousands of generations in captivity, are a great asset to the first time bird-trainer.

A friend once showed me a number of photos of 2 incredibly tame zebra finches owned by her father in Taiwan. The birds slept in his pocket, responded to several commands, and seemed to solicit petting and other attention. She assured me that trained finches were quite common in her father’s community, and in other places on the island as well. In any event, zebra finches have long captive histories, and some individuals seem unusually calm even without much close contact.

How Nature Affects Training

When attempting to tame your pet finch, it is important to keep its nature and natural history in mind. Finches are smaller than the majority of the predators in their habitats….even spiders and frogs make meals of them on occasion. Most are, consequently, alert, high-strung and quick to take flight.

It is important to avoid sudden movements and noises around your finches …move slowly and speak in low tones. Keeping your birds at eye level is a good idea, as most become stressed by movements above their heads. In the beginning, avoid direct eye contact, which birds may associate with danger. I first read of this tip in the wonderful book Hand Taming Wild Birds at the Feeder (Martin, 1963)…the advice was later echoed by experienced co-workers at import facilities and the Bronx Zoo, and has proven very useful to me.

Make the same low sound or whistle each time you enter the room, and spend as much time as possible in the area…sitting quietly, in the main, for the first few days. Watch your birds for clues as to when it is time to move on with the process. Once they stop flitting about and begin feeding, bathing and preening in your presence, you can begin to try some closer contact.

Moving to Free Flight Training

It is nearly impossible to tame finches in their cage…your hand within their territory will be too threatening. The best technique is to allow them liberty in a bird-safe (cover windows, mirrors, etc.) room. Do this only after your pets have accepted their cage as a safe haven and regard it as their territory. The time period involved will vary, but 4-6 weeks is a good starting point.

When first releasing your finches, slowly insert an 18 inch perch through the bars near the cage door, and then open the door. This will allow the birds to exit slowly…many birds (and most animals for that matter), are reluctant to just burst into unfamiliar territory. Finches will prefer to hop out onto the perch for a look around, and may take a surprisingly long time to leave their cage completely.

Never attempt to chase your bird from its cage, as even one bad experience, especially with species other than canaries, can easily ruin your chances of gaining your pet’s trust.

Be sure to have a comfortable perch (i.e. another cage top, potted tree or well-secured natural branch) set up some distance from the cage as well, so that the finch will have somewhere to alight.

Returning to the Cage

Now that the finch is flitting about the room, how does one get it to go back home? Please check Part II of this article next week for tips on hand-taming and returning your bird to its cage.

For a different perspective on bird training, please see my article, Hand Taming Wild Birds.

Check out Part II of this article for additional information.

Spring, slow as it may seem in arriving this very cold winter, is on its way.  Here on the outskirts of NYC I’ve already heard the songs of cardinals and song sparrows (both on February 19^th) and, while I’ve not had the chance to check, it is likely that the red-winged blackbirds have returned from their winter retreats.  With the coming season I expect my annual plethora of “abandoned baby bird” phone calls, and so thought this might be a good time to address a few related points.

Feathered vs. Un-feathered Chicks

Most birds leave the nest (fledge) while barely able to fly, and are fed by the parents for a few days thereafter.  If the youngster you come upon has feathers, it has most likely not fallen or been abandoned…usually, the best course of action is to leave it be.

If the chick lacks feathers, and is unable to perch or move about, return it to the nest if you can do so safely.  Contrary to popular belief, the parents will not reject a chick that has been handled – in fact, if they see you near it, even the most timid of species will usually try to drive you away.  Wash your hands well after handling the bird.

If you cannot return the bird to its nest, or it is likely to run into trouble where it has landed, contact a veterinarian, nature center, local zoo or the organization listed below.

A Huge Time Commitment

Raising baby birds requires a good deal of expertise – most need to be fed at 20 minute intervals from sunrise to sunset, and require specialized diets.  If you have the opportunity, check out the Bronx Zoo’s World of Birds.  An exhibit there very graphically illustrates the scores of insects, earthworms, mice and fish that a single chick of various species requires weekly – very impressive.

In my work as a zookeeper and wildlife rehabilitator, I have hand-raised parrots, birds of prey, songbirds and shorebirds, and Australia’s charmingly bizarre frogmouth (please see photo), and can testify that it is more than a full time job – and I was well-supported by various institutions.  To do the same from home can be quite an ordeal.

Locating a Rehabilitator or Obtaining Training

The National Association of Wildlife Rehabilitators (http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact.htm; 320-230-9920) can refer you to local experts who accept birds, and offers advice to those wishing to become trained and licensed as rehabilitators.  Your state’s wildlife agency will also likely maintain a list of licensed rehabilitators.

The claws of most pet birds require occasional trimming, and there are a few special considerations that should be kept in mind concerning certain groups.

The Adaptive Value of Long, Twisted Claws

Some birds that frequent grasslands and marshy habitats grow long, twisted claws as an adaptation to perching upon reeds and grasses (there’s a reason for everything, other than giving you more work!).  These claws, so useful in natural habitats, often cause captives to become entangled in nesting material, screened areas and aviary bushes.

Among commonly-kept birds, it is the rapidly-growing claws sported by many popular waxbills, weavers and mannikins that require the most attention.

Avoiding the Blood Vessel

When trimming your pet’s claws, be sure to work under a good light.  The claw’s blood supply is visible as a light red line within the claw…stop trimming above the point where this vessel ends.  The blood vessel will be difficult to locate in birds with black claws.  If at all possible, compare the claws of these species with similarly-sized finches having pale claws.  Trim black claws modestly, or, if unsure, bring the bird to a veterinarian for its “manicure”.

Necessary Trimming Supplies

Lay out your supplies ahead of time, so that you can complete the task quickly, thereby minimizing the stress factor.  Use a specially designed bird claw clipper and not just any small scissors that happens to be available.  This will assure a precise cut, and will prevent the claw-splitting to which tiny birds are prone.

Always have styptic powder available in the event that you do nick a blood vessel.  Styptic powder is an old standby – in zoos I’ve seen it used on animals ranging from hummingbirds to tigers – and will stem any minor bleeding (please note: styptic powder is not for use on deep wounds, infected areas or burns).  You may wish to keep our bird first aid kit, packed with a variety of useful items, on hand as well.

Further Reading

The brilliantly-colored Gouldian finch is a popular cage bird that is specifically adapted, via claws and otherwise, to life on the grasslands of northern Australia.  You can read about ongoing conservation projects for wild Gouldian finches at http://www.sciencewa.net.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=853&Itemid=670.

Please see Part I of this article for general information and notes concerning other species.

Spectacled or White-Fronted Amazon Parrot, Amazona albifrons albifrons

Reaching only 11 inches in length and hailing from Mexico and Central America, this smallest of the Amazons is also the most affordable of the group.  This may be in part to its somewhat undeserved reputation as a “screamer”.  Its voice is loud and high-pitched, no doubt, and, like many of its relatives, the spectacled Amazon is quite vocal in general.

However, these vocal propensities render this red, white and blue-crowned parrot a very good mimic.  Due to their relatively modest cost, spectacles were quite common in the trade when I first began working with birds, and I had the chance to work with quite a few.  They seemed often to revel in their abilities…those I’ve been around have been most enthusiastic talkers, always ready to show off.

I heartily recommend spectacled Amazons to those with some parrot-keeping experience…properly socialized and handled, they make wonderful pets.  They are not for those seeking a quiet parrot that will blend into the background, but are ideal for those who want a responsive, active household member about.

Yellow-Naped Amazon Parrot, Amazona (ochrocephala) auropalliata

Yellow-napes are considered by many to be the ultimate parrot pet, and certainly their reputation for great intelligence is well-deserved.  Large (to 16 inches), boisterous, vocal and active, the yellow-nape is best acquired as a hand-raised youngster.  Birds that are not well-socialized when young are a real handful, and best left to very experienced (and patient!) aviculturists.  Yellow napes do tend to use their powerful beaks to “make a point”, a further reason why well-tamed individuals are recommended.

Yellow-napes often take well to lots of physical contact with favored people…they may roll onto their backs and paw at you with their feet and engage in all sorts of similar games.  Their size and sturdy build suits them well for controlled rough-housing, much more so than many parrots.

The yellow-nape is considered by some ornithologists to be a distinct species, while others classify it as a subspecies of the widely-ranging yellow-crowned parrot.  Eight to nine additional yellow-crowned subspecies range from central Mexico to the Amazon Basin.  The yellow-naped Amazon is found from southern Mexico to western Costa Rica.  The various types have long been popular pets throughout their native ranges.

Vinaceous Amazon Parrot, Amazona vinacea

The vinaceous Amazon differs from its relatives in general personality traits, being rather shy and retiring.  Most have none of the “swagger” associated with its raucous cousins, and make gentle, affectionate pets.  They fare best in quiet surroundings, and should be approached slowly, even when well-habituated to captivity.

This striking bird is distinct from most other Amazons in plumage as well.  Its green feathers are rimmed in black and the forehead and chin are red.  The throat and breast are infused with a beautiful purple-red cast, which sometimes extends to the abdomen, lending this parrot a quite unique appearance.

Unfortunately, vinaceous Amazons are quite rare in their native habitat, which is limited to southeastern Brazil and Paraguay, with remnant populations hanging on in Argentina.  Deforestation is the main culprit in their disappearance from large tracts of former habitat.  Like most parrots, they depend upon tree cavities in which to nest.  Vinaceous Amazons seem even more demanding than most species as regards the size and location of nesting cavities, and hence are particularly sensitive to habitat loss.   Field studies have shown that they compete poorly with other cavity nesting birds and mammals (i.e. various opossums), and that introduced honeybees commandeer favored tree holes with increasing frequency.

Given their precarious situation in the wild, vinaceous Amazons are an ideal choice for those with the space and expertise to attempt breeding.

Amazons have found use as “watchdogs”, and may have figured prominently in the Columbus’ journey the Americas.  Please see my article at http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatavianblog/2008/05/14/did-parrots-help-columbus-find-his-way-to-america/ and the references cited there.

Yellow Naped Amazon image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by SEWilco under Wikipedia Commons 

Vinaceous Amazon image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by TJLin under Wikipedia Commons.

Last time I highlighted the National Audubon Society’s Christmas Bird Count, the nation’s oldest wildlife survey.  Although it is easy for one to become involved, the count is run only at a specific time.  If you are a casual birder, or even someone who only occasionally takes notice of our avian neighbors, you can still participate in conservation efforts.  Even the “Hey, I haven’t seen northern orioles here before” – and similar sporadic observations – are welcome!

The Great Backyard Bird Count, managed by the National Audubon Society and Cornell University’s Laboratory of Ornithology, offers casual birders a wonderful opportunity to be heard.  The information generated by over 100,000 volunteers has been especially valuable in documenting the appearance of birds (i.e. snowy owls) outside of their usual ranges.  You can learn more at http://birds.cornell.edu/pfw/.

In association with several Canadian groups, the aforementioned organizations also sponsor Project Feederwatch, a winter-long assessment of birds visiting feeders throughout the USA and Canada.  Assisted by nearly 20,000 volunteers, the project has generated information that has made its way into scientific journal articles dealing with avian feeding ecology, population trends and disease.  Participant information is posted at http://www.birdsource.org/gbbc/.