Hand-Rearing Baby Birds – Are you Qualified?
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Hand-raised birds of all types make wonderful pets, and the process itself seems appealing and attracts many bird owners. However, there are a number of misconceptions concerning the need for hand-raising birds, and also regarding the ease of doing so.
The Question of Bonding
Parent-reared birds can bond quite strongly to people and become wonderful companions, especially if taken under one’s care soon after they become independent. In many cases, such birds will be sturdier than hand-reared chicks, and will have been taught important foraging and social skills.
If a bird is to be pulled from the nest for hand-rearing, it is not essential that the new owner be involved. If taken soon after fledging, the chick will bond to people other than those who have raised it. The prospective owners may wish to visit the chick while it is being fed by the breeder (but such is not strictly necessary)…this is definitely preferable to an inexperienced person trying to raise a chick.
Misleading Beliefs
Healthy parrot and other chicks seem so perpetually hungry that one might be forgiven for assuming that hand-rearing is simply a matter of filling their gaping mouths with a supply of suitable food (please see photo of common cuckoo for an extreme example!). However, nothing could be further from the truth. The undertaking is complex and fraught with difficulties.
The Time Factor
Even if one possesses the necessary facilities and expertise, the time factor must be considered. Depending upon age and species, chicks will need numerous feedings throughout the day and, sometimes, the night.
I well remember waking up at 1AM and trekking to the Bronx Zoo to provide early morning feedings to palm cockatoos and other orphaned birds…interesting, but not for weeks on end!
Typical Difficulties Encountered
Following is just a brief listing of some possible problem areas:
Chicks that are abandoned or purposely taken from the nest for hand-rearing are often stressed. As a result, their immune systems will be weakened, leaving them open to health problems.
Food that remains in the crop can decay and cause fatal bacterial or fungal infections; determining that the chick’s crop is empty is not an easy matter.
The preparation, cooking, storage and delivery temperature of the food is critical. Details vary greatly with species, age and health.
The actual process of feeding the bird often leads to aspiration pneumonia, which arises when the chick inhales food into its lungs; such is difficult to avoid if one is not well-experienced.
Feeding utensils can easily damage tender mouths and crops, especially as regards particularly vigorous or lethargic chicks. Utensils that are not adequately sterilized are a common source of bacterial infection.
The temperature at which the chick must be kept varies with species, age and health, and is critical. This affects overall health and digestion. If too cool, even by a degree or two, a chick will not be able to move its food through the digestive tract adequately; fatal bacterial and fungal infections are then likely.
Making a Decision
My work with injured and abandoned chicks has left me with many fond and a few sad memories. Please consider your options carefully, and write in for specific advice. In all cases, you should work with an experienced aviculturist before attempting to raise a chick on your own.
Further Reading
For a look at some of the joys and difficulties inherent in raising rare birds, please see my article Hand rearing Palm Cockatoos.
Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.
Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Tropical Birdland.
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about 1 year ago
My dad has been hand rearing parrots and different birds for years. He has an accurate chart with regimes and feeding times for African Grey parrots but was wondering if there are any charts available for other types of birds?
I know he also has problems hand rearing the Australian Kings. He thinks it is due to over feeding the babies… would this cause them not to survive? Does anybody have any advice for successfully breeding these particular parrots?
Thank you so much for any advice.
about 1 year ago
How do you tell for sure that the crop is empty on an umbrella cockatoo who is 4 weeks old? I rescued the baby yesterday. The baby’s crop looks like it deflates, but it’s still a little visible even 9 hours after a feeding (overnight). The crop does go down to that deflated state within 3 and a half to 4 hours during the day. I am feeding Kaytee Exact formula about 11-15cc 4 times a day. Thanks!
about 1 year ago
Hello Sandy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. The crop being a bit visible is not necessarily a sign that it is not completely empty (they sometimes stretch, usually if the bird has had a few too many extra large meals)…however it’s a fine line and a trained eye is essential. Be sure the bird is kept at 85F or so, and that the air is fairly humid – otherwise the crop will be slow in emptying and the food may sour. An experienced breeder or avian vet should, however, take a look at the bird, just to be on the safe side – written descriptions of crop emptying/ appearance are not the best option.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hello Kimberly, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Many breeders use the guidelines for well-researched species, such as African Grays, for most parrots. This article written by an experienced avian vet does set out some specifics, however.
Over-feeding can cause problems, especially sour crop, and can stretch the crop. The crop emptied from the top, so if new food is given too soon, it will lie atop the old food and be utilized first….the old food continues to stay in the crop and eventually sours.
A full \crop feels a bit soft, not taut…the crop should be allowed to empty completely at least every 24 hours.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.