That Bird Blog – Bird Care and History for Pet Birds

In Part I of this article I introduced our largest finch cage and discussed some of the reasons that aviculturists should strive to provide even the smallest of birds with as much space as possible. To continue, another nice aspect of the room provided by the 5’ x 2’ x 5’ Double Flight Cage is that hanging live or artificial plants can be used to provide sight barriers and security to nervous birds. This will vastly improve their quality of life and may pave the way for captive reproduction.

A Complex Environment and Foraging Opportunities

The additional space provided by this cage also allows you to easily provide a stimulating captive environment for your pets. A variety of vine-style perches and toys can be used in this regard.

The provision of challenging and somewhat “natural” foraging opportunities is also important in keeping birds active and healthy. Installing sprout pots, hiding fruits and scattering small mealworms, crickets and other insects about a large cage are all time-tested techniques that will keep your birds alert and eager to explore their surroundings.

Further Reading

Just as many folks seem to believe that finches can get by in cramped quarters due to their diminutive size (please see Part I of this article for further discussion), so too it is sometimes assumed that only parrots have any use for toys. Please see my article Finches use “Parrot Toys” Too! for an alternative view.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by William Kreijkes.

Hand-raised birds of all types make wonderful pets, and the process itself seems appealing and attracts many bird owners. However, there are a number of misconceptions concerning the need for hand-raising birds, and also regarding the ease of doing so.

The Question of Bonding

Parent-reared birds can bond quite strongly to people and become wonderful companions, especially if taken under one’s care soon after they become independent. In many cases, such birds will be sturdier than hand-reared chicks, and will have been taught important foraging and social skills.

If a bird is to be pulled from the nest for hand-rearing, it is not essential that the new owner be involved. If taken soon after fledging, the chick will bond to people other than those who have raised it. The prospective owners may wish to visit the chick while it is being fed by the breeder (but such is not strictly necessary)…this is definitely preferable to an inexperienced person trying to raise a chick.

Misleading Beliefs

Healthy parrot and other chicks seem so perpetually hungry that one might be forgiven for assuming that hand-rearing is simply a matter of filling their gaping mouths with a supply of suitable food (please see photo of common cuckoo for an extreme example!). However, nothing could be further from the truth. The undertaking is complex and fraught with difficulties.

The Time Factor

Even if one possesses the necessary facilities and expertise, the time factor must be considered. Depending upon age and species, chicks will need numerous feedings throughout the day and, sometimes, the night.

I well remember waking up at 1AM and trekking to the Bronx Zoo to provide early morning feedings to palm cockatoos and other orphaned birds…interesting, but not for weeks on end!

Typical Difficulties Encountered

Following is just a brief listing of some possible problem areas:

Chicks that are abandoned or purposely taken from the nest for hand-rearing are often stressed. As a result, their immune systems will be weakened, leaving them open to health problems.

Food that remains in the crop can decay and cause fatal bacterial or fungal infections; determining that the chick’s crop is empty is not an easy matter.

The preparation, cooking, storage and delivery temperature of the food is critical. Details vary greatly with species, age and health.

The actual process of feeding the bird often leads to aspiration pneumonia, which arises when the chick inhales food into its lungs; such is difficult to avoid if one is not well-experienced.

Feeding utensils can easily damage tender mouths and crops, especially as regards particularly vigorous or lethargic chicks. Utensils that are not adequately sterilized are a common source of bacterial infection.

The temperature at which the chick must be kept varies with species, age and health, and is critical. This affects overall health and digestion. If too cool, even by a degree or two, a chick will not be able to move its food through the digestive tract adequately; fatal bacterial and fungal infections are then likely.

Making a Decision

My work with injured and abandoned chicks has left me with many fond and a few sad memories. Please consider your options carefully, and write in for specific advice. In all cases, you should work with an experienced aviculturist before attempting to raise a chick on your own.

Further Reading

For a look at some of the joys and difficulties inherent in raising rare birds, please see my article Hand rearing Palm Cockatoos.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Tropical Birdland.

Even the smallest lovebird can deliver a painful bite, and larger parrots are capable of inflicting serious injuries. If a parrot bites and holds on, you must respond appropriately in order to limit the bite’s severity.

Do Not Pull Away

In a lifetime of working with animals, I’ve actually been bitten by more snakes than parrots, but the principals are the same. One’s first reaction – to pull away – must be stifled. Instead, push the bitten hand (as an example) towards the parrot’s head. This will relieve pressure on your hand and may force the bird to relinquish its grip. Pulling away will add to the trauma of the bite…I learned this when a concave-casqued hornbill broke my finger; pulling away from an anaconda left me with a souvenir – a tooth that remains buried in my wrist to this day!

Balance

You can also try to disturb the bird’s balance, forcing it to focus on that and to release you. This is best accomplished by tilting the hand or object upon which the parrot is perched (note: do not tilt your hand if the parrot is biting the hand upon which it sits).

Tools

When working closely with birds likely to latch onto me, I always carry an easily accessible object to force into an offending bill. Credit cards, butter knives and spoons will all serve well, depending upon the size of your attacker.

Additional Tactics

Putting the parrot on the floor and/or covering its head with a towel may also cause it to withdraw. A sudden loud noise can also be useful in distracting and startling an aggressive bird.

You might try smacking your hand on something, stomping your foot or turning on a radio if within reach.

In all cases, direct eye contact with the bird should be sought…this does not always work, but excellent results are sometimes forthcoming.

Medical Concerns

Be sure to seek medical advice after being bitten by any animal. Even the smallest of wounds can leave one open to dangerous infections. Do not assume that because your parrot is kept indoors there is no risk of infection – call your doctor!

Further Reading

Parrot screaming can be as dangerous to one’s mental health as biting is to physical health! For further information, please see my article Help! – My Parrot Won’t Stop Screaming.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by snowmanradio.

As a small boy leafing through books on exotic birds from faraway lands, I recall being awe-stuck by a bird that, to me, symbolized all that was wild, foreign, beautiful and unknown – the golden pheasant (Chrysolphus pictus). The long-tailed males, which display gold, deep red, rust, blue, tan, orange, green, scarlet, yellow and chestnut feathers, are among the most richly-colored of all birds.

Beautiful and Tough

I was indeed amazed to learn, years later, that these central China natives are among the most commonly kept of all pheasants, and were quite reasonably priced.

Furthermore, although brilliant plumage had always signaled “delicate” to my inexperienced mind, golden pheasants are amazingly tough birds. Evolved to endure frigid winters in mountainous habitats, an open-sided shelter easily saw them through New York winters. In fact, hot summers prove more of a threat.

Natural History

Golden and the closely related Lady Amherst’s pheasants (C. amherstiae) are also called ruffed pheasants, due to the brilliant cape that encircles the nape. Courting males raise the ruff and leap about the hens, first on one side, then the other. Some populations appear to be monogamous, but most observers report that males mate with 6-8 hens in the wild.

Golden pheasants are native to the highlands of central and northwestern China, where their range overlaps with that of a familiar US transplant, the ring-necked pheasant. Shy and wary, it is said that the males’ striking colors are visible over great distances on clear days.

Captive History and Care

Goldens may be the earliest pheasants to have been taken into captivity, and have been well known in East Asian aviculture for centuries. They were brought to North America in the mid 1700’s, and were reportedly kept by George Washington.

Experienced aviculturists often recommend golden pheasants as excellent starter species. They adjust well to modestly sized outdoor aviaries and invariably become exceedingly tame. A trio that I kept was as confiding as chickens, even while nesting. Although usually kept in pairs, a trio or male and 3 hens is preferable, as males often drive a single hen incessantly and interfere with rearing the chicks.

Golden pheasants have been hybridized with cheer, silver, Reeve’s, Caucus and green pheasants, and even with domestic hens! Only golden/Lady Amherst crosses are consistently fertile, however.

Further Reading

You can read more about golden pheasants in the wild at http://www.gamebird.com/pheasantgolden2.html.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and first posted by Magnus Manske.

Lories (parrot subfamily Lorinae) have long attracted aviculturists, yet there are many factors that weigh against their choice as pets. Noisy and aggressive towards other birds, all species feed on nectar and fruit, which, along with watery feces, they fling about their cages…keeping their living quarters clean is quite a chore.

Why then do so many people continue to put great efforts into their care? Simply put, they are the most gorgeously colored and acrobatic of all birds, and quickly become affectionate, playful companions. Fortunately, the availability of specially formulated lory food has greatly simplified their care.

Red or Moluccan Lory, Eos bornea bornea

This was the first lory I worked with, back as a boy helping out in a pet store (I say “helping out” because I was not paid, other than by being allowed to take sick animals home!). Without any real training, our red lory climbed down from his store-front perch each evening and walked to the back of the shop and into his cage. As soon as we began to close up for the night, off he went!

This responsiveness, along with “screaming” scarlet plumage, has rendered the red lory quite popular with parrot enthusiasts. It reaches 12 inches in length, and breeds fairly well, especially if exposed to temperatures of 90-93 F for a time. Like all their relatives, red lories do best in outdoor aviaries or large cages.

Red lories are limited in distribution to Saparura and Amboina Islands, west of New Guinea. They favor mangrove forests, but will feed in parks and farms if dense tree cover is available nearby. Relatives that also appear in the pet trade include the blue-streaked and black-winged lories.

Black-Capped Lory, Lorius lory lory

A quiet (for a parrot!) voice, hardy constitution and friendly nature suit this 12 inch lory well to captivity. Its plumage is better seen than described – the black crown contrasting spectacularly with the blue body and green wings.

Black-capped lories do best in an outdoor aviary at temperatures above 50 F. They tame readily, but will attack and kill other birds, including parrots much larger than themselves. Pairs sleep in a nesting box even when not breeding.

Black-capped lories inhabit Vogelkop, Batanta and nearby Papuan islands that lie northwest of New Guinea. The closely related chattering and purple-napped lories are also bred in captivity.

Tahitian Blue Lory, Vini peruviana

Despite having been bred in captivity since 1936, this tiny (6-7 inch) indigo and white lory is still found only in a few private collections and zoos. It is likely gone from its native Tahiti, courtesy of introduced rats, and now dwells only on the neighboring Cook and Society Islands.

In the mid 1970’s, a small group of confiscated Tahitian lories found their way into the Bronx Zoo and came under my care. Despite being well-bonded, the pair I kept quarreled frequently, but teamed up to harass the much larger Palawan peacock pheasants that shared their exhibit whenever the mood struck them.

Tahitians have smaller bills than most lories, and specialize on nectar and soft fruits. Mine did well on a “shake” of yogurt, honey, hummingbird nectar, papaya and blueberries, along with other fruits and insects. Like all lories, they squeeze insects to extract their softer parts, and discard the hard exoskeletons.

Further Reading

To read more about lory husbandry and natural history, please see my articles Aggression in Lories and Lorikeets and Lories and Lorikeets.

Red Lory image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Stephen.

Black Capped Lory image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Doug Janson.