That Bird Blog – Bird Care and History for Pet Birds

People who breed canaries, shama thrushes and other noted songsters often comment that housing males within hearing distance of one another improves the quality of their songs. This theory has now been validated by researchers studying song sparrows (Melospiza melodia) at the University of Miami.

Typical and Improved Songs

It seems that male song sparrows stick to their “usual” repertoire under normal circumstances – i.e. when calling to announce the ownership of their territory. However, when challenged by intruding males, song sparrows dramatically improve the quality of their songs, selecting note ranges and song speeds that are difficult to perform.

Whether this is to convince a female or male (or both) of the singer’s vigor has not yet been established, but clearly the birds are physically changing their songs in response to a hostile situation. This finding contradicts the long-held assumption that, once acquired, male birds’ song patterns are largely static.

Practical Applications

The song sparrow findings may eventually shed light on the acquisition of language in people, as similar brain pathways seem involved. Those of you who keep groups of canaries, green singing finches or other songbirds may wish to experiment a bit as well, to see if some competition spurs your pets to new musical heights.

Thoughts on the Song Sparrow

As for myself, the first time I hear a song sparrow call (whether the song is “improved” or not!) each late winter is a thrill, assuring me that warmer days are not far off. In years past, I heard these little fellows only near salt marshes, but am happy to report that they have now expanded into suburban yards and city parks in and near NYC.

Further Reading

You can hear a song sparrow’s call and read related field observations at

http://www.sitkanature.org/wordpress/2007/03/15/singing-song-sparrow/.

Please also see my article The Role of Learning and Instinct in Bird Song for more information on this and related topics.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Factumquintus

The bonds formed between mated pairs of parrots are among the strongest known in the animal kingdom.  In most species, paired parrots spend a great deal of time in actual physical contact with their mate, and cooperate in nest-building, rearing the young, defending their territory and all other daily activities.  When I observe parrots in the wild, be they monk parrots in NYC or scarlet macaws in Venezuela, I am always struck by how easy it was to identify paired birds amidst large flocks. Even in flight, mated birds of many species align themselves close to one another.

Bonding as a Training Aid

The instinct to bond renders parrots at once both ideal and difficult pets.  A parrot that chooses you as a “mate” will become quite attached and affectionate, in a way matched by few other pets. The need to bond explains why single birds are usually easier to train than those kept in pairs.

The Time Factor

If you do not spend significant time interacting with a bonded bird, boredom and behavioral problems (screaming, feather plucking, etc.) will be inevitable.  “Significant time” must be measured in light of the parrot’s natural behavior, which dictates that it be in close contact with its mate nearly always; an hour or two juggled among your busy schedule is not sufficient.

Aggression

Problems can arise even if you can spend a great deal of time with your pet.  Once bonded, parrots usually become quite territorial, defending not only their “mate” but also their living area.  The concept of “territory” varies greatly among individuals, and may extend to their cage, a room, or the entire house.

The parrot may become very aggressive towards other people, threatening them or attacking if possible.  In some cases, parrots may exhibit particularly strong responses to a particular person, i.e. one who enters their territory frequently or who is viewed as a threat to their “mate”.

Avoiding Bonding-Related Problems

The most effective way of preventing aggression related to bonding is to expose the parrot to all household members early in life.  Ideally, each person should spend an equal amount of time caring for or interacting with the parrot.  Even in this scenario, however, hormonal changes as the bird matures may affect its behavior, so it is important that you observe your bird’s behavior carefully and plan accordingly.

Further Reading

A large colony of feral monk parrots lives on the grounds of Brooklyn College in NYC. You can read about an interesting research project focusing on pair bonding at

http://academic.brooklyn.cuny.edu/education/miele/census.htm.

Image referenced from Morguefile and posted by Evildrjeff.

Feather clipping is a bit more complicated than, well…merely clipping feathers!  Timing, technique and other factors must be taken in to consideration if the procedure is to be successful.

First Step

You would be well advised to observe a veterinarian or experienced parrot keeper clip your bird’s feathers before attempting to do so yourself.  Being able to anticipate your pet’s reaction to the procedure is as important as learning how to carry it out.

Timing: Age and Season

Birds should not be clipped until they have learned how to fly…clipping too early may hamper the development of the powerful flight muscles.  Also, if a parrot does not learn basic flight skills when young, it will likely be injured later on should its flight feathers grow in.

Ideally, feathers should be trimmed just after the molt, which occurs yearly in most parrots.  Feathers that are still growing, recognizable by blood visible within the shaft, are known as blood feathers.  These will bleed, sometimes profusely, if cut, and often must be pulled (please see article below) in order to avoid an emergency situation.  Always keep a bird first aid kit  on hand, and clip your bird at a time when a veterinarian is readily available.

Clipping Primer

The feathers to be clipped in order to limit flying ability are known as the primaries, or primary flight feathers.  These are the 10 longest feathers on the outer edge of the parrot’s wing.  Clipping should begin at primary #1, which is the shortest feather and that furthest from the bird’s head.  How many primaries need be cut depends upon the species and the individual.  Begin by clipping 5 primaries.

The primaries should be trimmed until the cut ends are hidden beneath the next row of small feathers.  These feathers, known as the major coverlets, will shield the rough ends of the primaries, preventing them from irritating the skin.  If the primaries protrude from beneath the major coverlets, the parrot may pluck them.

A clipped bird should be able to get some lift and fly for a few feet.  If unable to do so, the parrot will be injured if it tries to fly from a high point, or if it leaps from a perch when startled.  Both wings should be trimmed…trimming one unbalances the bird, often causing stress and physical injuries.

Clipping Pros and Cons

Most parrot owners decide to clip their pets’ wings as a training aid – clipped birds tend to stay in one place during training.  There are, however, other situations where clipping might be recommended.  The decision will depend upon the nature of each bird and its captive environment.

For example, clipped birds cannot crash into mirrors or alight on hot stoves, and they are less likely to chew furniture or fly out open windows.  Birds of all kinds quickly sense outside air and locate escape routes.  I have seen this a great many times in zoo collections (where windows are always screened in bird holding areas).

If multiple parrots are housed together, feather clipping an aggressive individual will limit its ability to harass others.  This is particularly useful when new birds are introduced…by the time the aggressor’s feathers grow in, the birds may well have learned to co-exist.

Feather trimming may limit a male’s ability to mount and copulate with a female, especially in aviary situations.

Further Reading

You can learn more about dealing with cut and broken blood feathers at

http://qp-society.com/qpserc/bloodfeathers.html.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by snowmanradio.

The following blog entry was done by a guest blogger and does not necessarily reflect the views of That Fish Place/That Pet Place. Please welcome Dave Womach, Professional Parrot Trainer at Birdtricks.com

When you first hear the term, “freeflight parrot” you might expect to see a parrot flying through hoops in bird show at a theme park, or perhaps doing some stunt in a washed up Vegas showroom in a dingy hotel located in the wrong part of town, just north of the famous strip. Very few people are fully aware of the “no-limits” potential of what I refer to as, Freestyle Flying™.

Imagine for a moment what it would be like, if you took your clipped parrot outside, let go of his feet and a 25 mph wind gust took him out of your hands never to see him again. For many, that is unfortunately a very common story.

Now imagine going to some exotic location after 90 days of formal training and intentionally letting go of your parrot. Nothing beats the rush of a gust of wind taking your parrot 50 feet up into the air, as you watch that bird maneuver on an invisible wave of wind, as if he were a surfer riding on the great waves of Hawaii. He skillfully hovers in one spot until he gets enough confidence to surf the air and coast back and forth, only to land on your hand a couple of minutes later.

Freestyle Flying™ isn’t for everyone, but it is for every bird. And if you’re the kind of person who is willing to put in a lot of time, energy, and research, this can be the best quality of life that you can offer your parrot.

Over the past year I have been fortunate enough to fly my flock at locations all across the U.S., and watch as they go from freshly weaned baby parrots, to fully skilled pro’s.

My favorite thing to watch them do, is a term called Jinking. (v. jinked, jink•ing, jinks

To make a quick, evasive turn) As your parrots become more and more confident and skilled, they’ll start to experiment with evasive maneuvers that they use in the wild to evade predators such as hawks and eagles. They’ll actually flip upside down, flap, turn right side up, upside down, etc until they have successfully evaded the predator. Although I have seen this used twice to actually evade a hawk (or flock of seagulls), they also love just practicing it on their own.

If you ever have the opportunity to experience the freedom of flight, through Freestyle Flying™, make sure that you don’t miss out on the opportunity.

To see a brief video that will wet your appetite, click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7CZsTiPiXw

People have mixed feelings about teaching budgerigars, macaws, cockatoos and other parrots to perform tricks.  Some claim that such is somehow “degrading” (to the bird, I assume!) while others consider training to be vital in forging a good relationship with one’s pet.  My experience with captive animals of all types has convinced me that, when properly carried out, trick training greatly improves the quality of life for parrots and other highly intelligent creatures.

In zoos, marine mammals and elephants are trained as a matter of course, in order to simplify veterinary examinations (i.e. when an elephant raises its foot to allow the pads to be seen) and to keep the animals occupied with stimulating activities.  Much the same is true for pet parrots.  The training process itself also helps to forge a bond between the parrot and its owner.

The First Trick

As a first trick, I highly recommend teaching your parrot to “shake hands”.  This behavior is merely an extension of one that many well-adjusted birds already perform – that of stepping up on your finger or arm.  If your bird has not yet mastered this, then please do not attempt to teach it any tricks at this point…such will only frustrate both yourself and the bird.  Please write in if you need further information.

To train your parrot to shake, you’ll need a cage-top or similar stand set up in a quiet, distraction free room.  Training should involve no punitive actions whatsoever…your parrot will be quick to make the association and will lose interest.  Improper responses should be ignored, favorable actions rewarded with a small treat.  The treat used should be hidden from the bird’s view until needed, and should not be part of your pet’s normal diet.

Timing and Progress

Training sessions should last for at least 10 minutes, and, ideally, should be terminated before your parrot becomes bored and loses interest.  As you come to know and understand your parrot’s personality, you will become adept at judging when to end a training session.

Although some parrots exhibit amazing abilities to retain what they have learned, for most the road is bumpy at best.  Progress is rarely made on a predictable basis…be prepared for a “1 step forward, 2 (or 3-4!) steps backward” type experience.  Your patience is key… do not attempt a training session when you are ill or under time pressure.  Much like infants, parrots are very much attuned to subtle cues, and will pick up on and respond to your mood.

“Shaking Hands”

To teach a parrot to shake hands, first touch its foot while saying “shake hands”.  As soon as the foot is lifted, praise the bird and provide a small treat.

Once the bird consistently raises its foot on cue, begin to gently grasp the foot and shake it.  At this stage, provide praise and a reward only after the bird allows you to shake, not when it lifts the foot.

Practice in various locations, gradually increasing the types and degrees of distractions to which the parrot is exposed when given the “shake hands” command.

Further Reading

An amusing article on the Cincinnati Zoo’s famous singing Amazon parrot, which leads fans in song at local ballgames, is posted at:

http://www.cincinnatizoo.org/pdfs/2008OpeningDayParade.pdf

Please also check out our extensive line of parrot care books http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/cat/infoL3/22315/category.web.