That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

Patty here.

Just a quick blurb on some of our newest additions to stock this week!  We received a few things that we don’t see very often, so if you’re in the mood for something new check it out. 

On the salty side you’ll find our biggest excitement for the week, a male Crosshatch Trigger.  He’s big, bold and beautiful.  We also got a lovely little Yellow Assessor, who’s not to shy and would look terrific in someone’s reef!  Other items of note are a small Watanabei Angel and two new damsels, Limbaugh’s and some big Scissortail Chromis.

Not too much fresh on the freshwater end this week, but there are the Swamp Eels that might be very interesting in the right tank.  Also some nice looking Albino Butterfly Bristlenose Plecos.  There are also some other  fish for communities that don’t come around too often including Inky Barbs, Burma Danios, and Empire Gudgeons.

Drop in over the holiday or check them out online!  Have a Great Memorial Day!

Also known as the Tailbar Cichlid, this particular species hails from the rivers of Central America. It frequents areas of still or slow moving waters , hiding amongst root tangles.  An uncommon fish in the hobby, we have been carrying 2″ juveniles for a little while now, along with a beautiful 6″ male in a separate aquarium that also arrived.

An omnivore, Hartwegi feeds on anything from plants to small fish and shrimp. In the home aquarium, I would recommend feeding a varied diet with the staple being greens as it will help to brighten and maintain their coloration.  Males and females both grow to close to 12″, particularly in the wild.  The males are more robust in build, and develop a much denser spangling of red throughout the body than females have.

As for aquarium size, I would recommend a 55 gallon (minimum) for growing out a group, and at least a 65 gallon for a pair of adults.  In regards to temperament, they are mildly aggressive towards other fish, but when it comes to their own they are very aggressive, and it gets worse when they are defending a spawning site.   Have a divider ready if you suspect you have a pair ready to spawn, or there will be a strong possibility you’ll end up with battered or dead fish. Broods can number from 100 to 1000 eggs, and water conditions should be kept stable, with temperature being 76 to 78 degrees, ph 7.5 to 7.8 and moderate to hard water. Provide hiding places for others in the tank to help in minimizing the brunt of the abuse that a dominant male can and will exert on tankmates.

I have read that they are very intelligent fish, and can “play games” with their owner. With the male we have here I can see some truth to that statement, as he is very anxious for interaction. I would highly recommend this species for someone looking to keep a very personable first cichlid.

Until next time,

Jose

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Anchor worms are crustaceans (specifically copepods) and as such are more closely related to shrimp than to worms.  They often make their presence known in outdoor ponds as winter turns to spring.  Lernaea elegans, the most commonly encountered species, remains dormant during the winter and becomes active as the water reaches 55 F or so. 

Identification

Anchor worms bury below their host’s scales, but betray their presence by trailing ¼ to ½ inch-long portions of their black, thread-like bodies from infected fishes.  They usually attach about a fish’s gills, eyes or fins, but can occur most anywhere.  Other signs include inflamed or raised scales and efforts by fishes to dislodge the parasites (leaping, rubbing).

Infestations most commonly occur during the spring, when the parasites are searching for new hosts after their winter dormancy.  Conveniently for the anchor worms, the immune systems of pond fishes are at their weakest at this time, having been stressed by cool temperatures and the long winter fast. 

Secondary Bacterial Infections

Anchor worms rarely cause fatalities, but the wounds they inflict frequently become infected by opportunistic Pseudomonas and Aeromonas bacteria.  Ever present in the pond, these pathogens can easily kill fishes, especially those with depressed immune systems.

Avoiding Anchor Worms

Be especially careful to check for anchor worms when purchasing koi or goldfishes in the late winter or spring…those that have been wintered outdoors may be infected.  They also parasitize weather fishes, channel catfishes, hi-fin loaches and other species commonly kept in outdoor ponds.

Anchor worms of various species can also be introduced to your collection via tropical fishes which have been raised outdoors.

Treating Parasitized Fishes

Fortunately, Jungle Lab’s Anchors Away is an effective treatment for infestations of anchor worms and certain other parasites.  Be aware that this medication will kill crayfishes, snails and other invertebrates, and that carbon should be removed from your filter while treatment is ongoing.

It is also useful to add an ultraviolet sterilizer to your pond’s filtration system.  UV sterilizers will kill anchor worms in the free swimming larval stage (they are not effective against adults), thereby preventing re-infestation.

Further Reading

A detailed article (Food and Agriculture Association of the United Nations) on the life cycle of anchor worms and related parasitic copepods is posted at.

Please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Brian Gratwicke

I’m a sucker for animal stories in the news.  This morning I came across this short article in a news feed.  I found it pretty amazing and worthy of sharing here on the blog. Most of the stories we see in the news are about dogs, cats, and other furry creatures, and while I love them all the same, it is nice to read a story about one of our tiny ocean friends that is just as amazing and inspiring.

The story is about a tough little seahorse that (it is assumed) was picked up by a seagull on the British coast and dropped three miles inland.  The incredible thing is the amazing little lady survived the ordeal!  The species, Hippocampus guttulatus, is native to the southern and western coastlines of the isles in eel grass beds.  These rare Seahorses are currently being tagged and researched in hopes of preserving their dwindling populations.  The destruction of their natural habitat by anchors and boats is currently the biggest threat they face.  This one is super lucky to be alive!

You can read the full story here:   http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1181596/The-incredible-journey-Seahorse-miles-inland-scooped-seagulls-beak.html

And for more on the current research and conservation of seahorse species:  http://www.theseahorsetrust.org/
Enjoy!

Check out the 1st part of Eileen’s Aquarist’s Glossary of Terms here.

Water chemistry terms:

•  Alkalinity: Alkalinity is often confused with pH or water hardness. In technical terms, the alkalinity is the ability of a solution to neutralize acid. In an aquarium, this can be seen in changes in pH. The higher the alkalinity, the more difficult it is for the pH to change. pH levels above neutral (7.0 on a scale of 0-14) are also said to be “alkaline” or “basic” as opposed to levels below neutral are considered acidic.
• Brackish: Brackish environments are those found in between freshwater and saltwater environments and have a specific gravity of about 1.005 to 1.015 or a salinity of 0.5-30 ppt (parts per thousand). Common brackish water environments related to the aquarium trade are mangrove swamps, estuaries and bays.
• Carbon Dioxide: Carbon dioxide (CO₂) is a compound used by plants to produce oxygen in photosynthesis and a byproduct of respiration in which oxygen is used. CO₂ levels are important to monitor in heavily planted freshwater aquariums but are not as important in unplanted freshwater aquariums or in saltwater systems.
• Freshwater: Freshwater is water that does not have a significant salt level and is typically of most river or lake environments. Common freshwater environments that many aquarium-trade fish can be found in are the the Amazon River, African Rift Lakes, Australian rivers and South and Central American rivers. These are also referred to as aquatic environments.
• Nitrogen Cycle: The Nitrogen Cycle is used to descripe the process of converting ammonia (NH₄⁺) to nitrite(NO₂^–) to nitrate (NO₃^–). This process happens in any environment with organisms that produce ammonia and is conducted by nitrifying bacteria (nitrosomonas and nitrobacter). The levels of these three compounds are some of the most universal and important levels to monitor in home aquariums as they can be toxic to aquarium animals. Ammonia and nitrite can be especially toxic as they affect the ability of an animal’s gills to function correctly and the ability of an animial to absorb oxygen into its bloodstream. This is also known as the “Cycling Process” of an aquarium and can take 4-6 weeks in new aquariums or aquariums in which the biological filtration has been destroyed by water changes, medications or another cause.
• Ozone: Ozone (O₃) is a molecule made up of three oxygen atoms instead of the more stable 2-atom molecule (O₂). In aquariums and ponds, ozone is used to help control bacteria, disease and algae growth, to help remove very tiny debris particles from the water and for several other purposes. An “ozonizer” is used to pump a controlled amount of ozne into the aquarium. This is safe for most aquarium species (some animals like sharks can be very sensitive to ozone) but can quickly dry out and crack some rubber materials like tubing. Silicone tubing should be used with ozone and ozonizers.
• pH: The pH level is, technically speaking, the amount of free hydrogen ions in a substance. The pH level is calculated using mathematical logarithms and does not have a unit of measurement. This scale is measured from 0 to 14 (or -1 to 14 in some scientific circles) with 7.0 being considered “neutral”. Levels above 7.0 are considered “Basic” or “alkaline” while levels under 7.0 are considered “acidic”. Some common pH ranges in the aquarium trade are 8.0-8.4 for marine systems, 6.8-7.4 for most tropical freshwater fish like those from the Amazon River, and 7.8-8.4 for African Cichlids from Lake Malawi and Lake Victoria.
• Phosphate: Phosphate (PO₄) has many uses, from glass production and fertilizers to matches and fireworks. An excess of this nutrient in freshwater or saltwater systems can cause algae blooms, usually characterized by green water or greenish or blackish films on surfaces. It can be removed by special filters or filter media and usually enters an aquarium through overfeeding with phosphate-rich foods or though source water with high phosphate levels like well water or in heavily agricultural areas.
• Salinity/ Specific Gravity: Both of these terms are used to describe and measure the amount of salt in water. “Salinity” is mainly used in more scientific measurements and measures the amount of salt in parts per thousand (ppt or ⁰/₀₀). “Specific gravity” is more common in the aquarium trade and measures the density of a substance compared to pure water (since this “measurement” is actually a comparison, it does not have a unit of measure like “ppt” in salinity). Salinity is commonly measured using weight, chemical tests or refraction (the water’s ability to bend light waves); Specific gravity is measured using a hydrometer (a device that measures buoyancy to determine density). Marine aquariums usually have a salinity of 30-35ppt or a specific gravity of around 1.020-1.025
• Saltwater: Saltwater environments are those with a specific gravity of 1.018 or higher, or with a salinity of 30 ppt (parts per thousand) or higher. This is the environment found in oceans and seas around the world and is home to coral reefs. The term “marine” is also used to refer to anything pertaining to these environments.
• Water Hardness: Water Hardness is a measure of the amount of minerals dissolved in the water, especially Calcium and Magnesium. Like alkalinity, the water hardness affects the stability of water – the chemistry of soft water is much easier to change than hard water. Some fish like Discus or most tetras prefer soft water while others like African cichlids and Bettas thrive in hard water. Working with the hardness of your water when choosing fish and maintaining an aquarium can be far less stressful than trying to change it. Water hardness is usually measured two ways – General Hardness and Carbonate Hardness. Both are usually measured using liquid test kits and a method called “titration” – adding small amounts of solvent to a solution until and endpoint like a color change is reach.
• General Hardness is usually measures in degrees (dGH or ºGH). 1 dGH is equal to 10 milligrams of calcium oxide per liter of water or 17.848 ppm. “Very soft” water is defined as 0.4 dGH, “Soft water” is 4-8 dGH, “Slightly Hard” water is 8-12 dGH, “Moderately hard” is 12-18 dGH, and “Hard” water is 18 dGH or higher.

The Carbonate Hardness (KH) is closely related to the General Hardness but is a measure only of the calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), not of the other minerals present. This is usually more important in saltwater aquariums than in freshwater since most saltwater invertebrates have skeletons or shells made up of primarily calcium carbonate. The GH and KH are usually close but can be different, depending on the minerals present.