That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

Tangs tend to be a favorite among aquarists since they are very colorful and have a taste for algae. Tangs are primarily herbivorous and need a diet rich in algae. There are many algae based food that are great for tangs including live caulerpa, nori strips, and formula 2 that comes in a frozen variety as well as flakes and pellets. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion(HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic. The open wounds that result will make the fish susceptible to other infections, and these secondary infections may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich vegetarian diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion.  Selcon, garlic guard, and vita-chem are excellent food additives.  Tangs are also susceptible to Amyloodinium and Cryptocaryon so proper quarantine is a must. Once tangs make it through the initial quarantine they are usually pretty hardy.

Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tank-mates. They don’t usually bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control. Tangs may become territorial and aggressive towards very similar tank-mates or other tangs from the same genus. Tangs are very active swimmers and should not be housed in any tank smaller than 50 gallons but larger is always better.

In our retail store we have a great selection of colorful tangs.  One of the most popular tangs that we sell would be the yellow tang, (Zebrasoma flavesence). Yellow tangs are very hardy but can bully new tank-mates. They will do best if added to a community tank last. Yellow tangs can reach a max size of 8 inches so choose their tank size accordingly.  They are very active swimmers and become rather bold. They are sure to be a bright center piece in any tank.

Another tang closely related to the yellow tang would be the purple tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum). Purple tangs are a gorgeous deep purple to blue with a bright yellow tail. They are not as readily available as some other tangs but we do have these beauties from time to time. Purple tangs are also pretty feisty once acclimated.  They can reach a max size of 10 inches so a large home is a must. 

Sailfin tangs, (Zebrasoma veliferum) and (Zebrasoma desjardinii), are one of the larger tangs with adults capable of reaching 16 inches. As juveniles both species of sailfin tangs look identical. As they mature Zebrasoma veliferum tends to retain most of its juvenile coloration where Zebrasome desjardinii will phase out its stripes and change them to spots and their overall coloration becomes muted. Sailfin tangs are rather peaceful tangs and get along with most other tank-mates, however they do not tolerate others of the same kind or genus unless they are kept in a very large aquarium.  They also have great personalities and do recognize the hand that feeds them. 

Another very popular tang is the Hippo tang (Paracanthurus hepatus).  They have a bright yellow tail and electric blue body with a black hook shaped mark overlaid on each side.  Hippo tangs tend to be shy but may bicker with other tangs in the tank from time to time.  Juvenile hippo tangs are usually found in groups but usually do best as a single specimen unless the tank is very large since adults can reach a max size around 12 inches. 

Another true beauty would be the Powder blue tang (Acanthurus leucosternon).  Powder blue tangs have a baby blue body,  yellow dorsal fin and caudal peduncle, white anal and ventral fins, and a black face with a white area below the jawline.  Powder blue tangs are one of the more delicate tangs so extreme care should be taken when transporting and acclimating this fish.  They are also notorious ich magnets so quarantining new specimens is a must.  If proper care is given powder blue tangs can reach a max size of 8 inches.         

One of my all time favorite tangs is the Achilles tang (Acanthurus achilles).  Achilles tangs are jet black with a splash of vivid orange in a teardrop shape right before the caudal fin.  The caudal fin itself is orange rimmed in white.  The dorsal and anal fins are also have a hint of orange with white and black.  Achilles tangs , like the powder blue tangs, are very delicate and rather difficult to acclimate and get to feed regularly.  However, if you are able to meet the demands of this fish they will reward you greatly with their stunning beauty.

In closing, most tangs are acceptable to be housed in a captive environment and will thrive for many years to come.  Research is the key though.  Make sure you gain as much knowledge as you can since that in turn will give the tang that you choose the best possible home next to the ocean where it come from.

Check out some videos our staff here made on basic care for the yellow tang and hippo tang at You Tube.

Until Next Time,

Melissa

Please welcome back Brandon Moyer for another excellent post.

We carry hundreds of different species of fish and inverts here at That Fish Place, That Pet Place that come from all around the world.  There are, however, certain species that are no longer available to us by act of law.  Their release into the wild and the lifestyles and behaviors they exhibit has earned them the title of invasive species.  This blog is the first in a series of popular invasive pet species accounts.  One of these is commonly inquired about here at That Fish Place and is notorious worldwide.

The Northern Snakehead, Channa argus, is one species of fish that has been introduced into non-native waters where it has thrived and disrupted its new habitat.  The snakehead family originates from Asia and parts of Africa.  The Northern Snakehead, which is invasive in the United States, originates from Southeast China and Korea.  Snakeheads are apex predators, meaning that they stand at the top of the food chain and eat almost anything they can get in their mouth.  Females can release anywhere from 1,300 to 15,000 eggs during a single spawn.  They can spawn up to five times in a single year.  They can survive in waters which range in temperature from 0 to 30 degrees Celsius.  What makes them more threatening is that they can survive out of water for four days by breathing air with modified organs, even longer if they construct a muddy burrow.

The first invasive snakehead in the United States was discovered in Spiritwood Lake in California in 1997.  The first established population of snakeheads was found in Crofton, Maryland in 2002.  This population provided proof that snakeheads were able to invade and flourish in US waters.  Since then juvenile and adult snakeheads have been found in the Schuylkill River in Pennsylvania, Lake Wylie in North Carolina, Meadow Lake in New York, and several other states in the eastern United States.  When snakeheads enter a new body of water they tend to disrupt the food chain.  Juvenile snakeheads compete for food with juveniles of native species.  Adults also compete for resources with adults of native species and become so aggressive that they will also kill and eat them.

Their aggressive behavior, distinct appearance, and large size made snakeheads a popular aquarium fish, although due to their potential to invade natural ecosystems, they are illegal in over half of the United States, including Pennsylvania, Maryland, and New York.  Irresponsibility was the main cause of their invasion into US waters.  We as responsible aquarists must realize the impacts that snakeheads, and many other species of fish, may potentially have in the wild to prevent these species turning from pets to pests.

I hope that this blog was informative and illustrated the importance of keeping our pets in the aquarium.  Check back for more invasive species blogs. Photo courtesy of the U.S. Geological Survey.

Thanks Brandon!

Until Next Time,

Dave

 

Welcome back Patty Little to That Fish Blog!

Clams and other bivalves are well known for their filtering capabilities, absorbing toxins and nutrients from natural waterways both freshwater and saltwater. While clams and their relatives are common to reef aquaria, there are also clams available for freshwater tanks. The clams offered most commonly by pet stores are Corbicual sp. from freshwater Asian waterways. They can be interesting and beneficial additions to freshwater tanks, so I thought it might be worth a little article to help anyone along that may be considering the addition of these inverts.

These clams grow to about two inches across, and may live for months or years depending on their living conditions. They range in color from golden tan to black, and sometimes accumulate algae on their shells. They can be housed in even small tanks, 5-10 gallons, as long as they have enough water movement, decent filtration, and are provided with supplemental food when necessary. These clams should thrive in temps from 65-82 F and will need somewhat harder water to maintain a healthy shell. They are also best suited to an aquarium with a fine substrate bed as they like to burrow into the sand. You will be able to see the clam’s siphon as it protrudes.

Clams feed by filtering detritus and nutrients from the water column. Depending on your tank, you may or may not need to supplement your clam with invertebrate foods, as in many cases they will take in what they need when you feed your fish and as they stir through the substrate. The result should be a cleaner and clearer aquarium.

Now for some cautionary notes. First, be sure that you house your clam with appropriate tank mates. Avoid housing them with predatory fish and other carnivores like many cichlids, puffers, rays, and bottom dwelling shrimp and crayfish that may agitate the clam. Though they are buried, their tissues are delicate and can be easily damaged, and if they are frightened or disturbed, they will not be able to feed and may starve. Remove your clams if you must treat your aquarium for any reason, particularly with copper based medications, as they cannot tolerate any copper in the water.

Though you may find freshwater clams and mussels in local ponds, streams, rivers, and lakes, it is generally a bad idea to collect species from the wild for use in a home aquarium. Wild specimens may be carriers of disease and tiny parasites that can be detrimental to captive fish. As they absorb toxins, these toxins may also be released into the otherwise pristine water you maintain. The other issue is that some bivalve species reproduce by releasing tiny larvae. These larvae may attach to the slime coat or gill filaments of your fish, and the resulting infection may be deadly. It is best to purchase clams from a reputable dealer so you know what you are introducing.

Finally, though it should be common sense, as responsible aquarists or keepers of any non-native species, clams and aquarium water should never be disposed of or introduced to waterways for any reason. Introduction of non-native species can have horrific results. Use caution and be responsible with any plant or animal you may not be able to care for by contacting other enthusiasts, pet stores, or authorities for safe solutions to finding a new home to prevent serious environmental impact.

Thanks Patty,

Until Next Time,

Dave

Please welcome back Desiree Leonard to That Fish Blog.

We as biologists at times take our knowledge for granted and forget that not everyone that is involved in the hobby is fully aware of all of the natural processes and progressions which occur in a saltwater aquarium.
Frequently we are contacted by frantic new aquarists with the following:  “I have little bug – like things crawling all over the rock in my saltwater tank.  I swear they weren’t there before.  What are they and where did they come from? Are they going to make my fish sick?  How do I get rid of them?”

Well, after talking the caller down off the ledge (so to speak), I give this answer:

In all likelihood, these are Amphipods and Copepods; shrimp-like crustaceans that dwell in the substrate and rocks.  Because of the thousands of species contained within these groups in Class Crustacea, I am not going into detail about the taxonomy of these organisms, but here are some basic facts about these tiny crustaceans.
• There are both pelagic (free swimming), and benthic (bottom dwelling) bugs.
• Copepods occur in all types of aquatic ecosystems; freshwater, estuarine (brackish) and marine.
• Amphipods are mostly found in marine ecosystems, but there are some freshwater and terrestrial species.
• They are just a few of the tiny animal organisms that make up zooplankton, which contributes to the overall make up of plankton.
• These creatures eat phytoplankton (tiny plants and algae that also help make up plankton), small microzooplankton (the division of zooplankton that are smaller than 200 microns, or 1/127th of an inch in size), and detritus.
• Only a few of the thousands of species of copepods and amphipods known are carnivorous or parasitic, and these are rarely found in a saltwater aquarium system.
• For many saltwater fish and other marine species, copepods and amphipods are a primary food source, both in nature and in captivity.
• Because these tiny organisms are a natural part of the plankton food chain in the ocean realm, they are naturally going to occur in a saltwater aquarium environment. They are also micro-cultured as food for various species of adult marine animals, as well as used and tested as a food source in the research of culturing and rearing all kinds of tank-raised fry.
• Copepods and amphipods most often appear in closed aquarium systems after live sand and/or rock has been added.  They will “bloom” in the tank when the temperature is slightly warmer and a food source is available.

Another critter that may be seen is the isopod.  Also called pill bugs, fish lice and rolly-pollies, these animals are found in all parts of the marine environment.  Most isopods are free living and harmless, feeding on detritus and algaes, however, some are predatory, or parasitic, and dangerous to other reef aquarium animals.

How did these “pods” get into the tank?  Well, they’ve most likely been there for a while, just not in numbers large enough to notice.  These organisms are microscopic or plankton sized when they start out, so until they grow large enough to be seen with the naked eye, you don’t know they are there.   They hitchhike in on live rock and sand, and it is only after you have placed it into your aquarium that these organisms crawl out and make themselves at home.

If you have a large population of “pods” naturally, count yourself among the lucky few.  Many aquarists go to great lengths to create a large healthy population in either their tank or refugium.  Remember, these “bugs” are a natural part of a healthy aquarium ecosystem, as well as an important food source required by some species to survive.  In most cases they won’t hurt anything.  You shouldn’t have to do anything about them.  If you are concerned however, you can provide a natural predator which should keep the population under control.  Here is a list of species which pick at live rock, or sift substrate in search of these tasty morsels.  Keep in mind those fish marked with a * are species which feed on these bugs as their primary food source.  They are challenging to keep, requiring a well established aquarium with a consistently high “pod” population to live on lest they starve.  Keeping more than one of these obligate “pod” eaters in a tank will most likely lead to a depleted food source.
• *Mandarinfishes/Dragonets; Synchiropus splendidus Blue/Psychadelic Mandarin, Synchiropus picturatus Green/Spotted Mandarin, Synchiropus stellatus Red Scooter/Starry Dragonet
• *Sand sifting gobies; Valenciennea spp. Sleeper Gobies, Signigobius biocellatus Twinspot/Signal Goby
• Most Firefishes are planktivores which may occasionally pick these bugs from the rock.
• Most Angel, Butterfly, Hawk, and Wrasse species spend their days grazing on fauna found on the rocks, however, do not consider this as a primary food source – merely an opportunistic treat.
• Seahorses feed primarily on these “pods” but are not a beginner fish and should not be housed with other fish.
Amphipods, copepods, and isopods are just a few of the fun little hitch-hikers we get questioned about, and we enjoy helping our customers with identification issues.  If you should have other fun things pop up in your ecosystem, here are some other things you can do to help identify them:
• Buy some good invertebrate identification books for your saltwater reference library.
• Refer to marine invertebrate database and profile information, as well as photo galleries.
• If you have a personal saltwater Web site, create something like a “Can You Help Identify This?” page. You can display photos here and allow visitors to email back to you about them.
• Post a message in various aquarist forums asking for help with identification. If possible include a photo of good clarity, or provide a link to a Web page you may have created as described above.

*Photo Emailing Tip: When you email a photo to another aquarist asking for help with identification on something, be kind. Only send an image that is reasonably sized, and is clear enough to tell what you want identified including a “brief” description.

Thanks,

Until Next Blog,

Desiree

Note:  Please see Part I of this article, New Facts on Vision, Florescence and Movement, for natural history and other general information.

 

General

Mantis shrimp engender strong feelings among marine aquarists – to many, they are highly valued pets – responsive, complex and long-lived.  However, small specimens sometimes arrive unnoticed among live rock and make themselves unwelcome by devouring expensive fish and other creatures.  Either way, these alert predators are among the most interesting marine invertebrates available in the pet trade.

 

Mantis shrimp mannerisms, in my opinion, inspire one to wonder about their intelligence – they definitely seem to peer at their owners, and are very aware of all that goes on around them (see Part I of this article).  The various species exhibit a startling array of neon-like colors, and even the drabber temperate types are often interestingly patterned in tans and browns.

 

Aquarium Size and Physical Set Up

Although water quality is more easily managed in large aquariums, small mantis shrimp do quite well in 10 gallon aquariums.  Individuals longer than 8 inches or so do best in a tank of 20 gallons or larger.

 

A secure retreat, preferably a burrow below the substrate, is essential.  Despite their fearless attitude, mantis shrimp will languish and die if forced to remain in the open.  Providing a proper home will result in your seeing your pet more, not less, as it will feel secure enough to behave normally.  Artificial rocks work well. Mantis shrimp will also explore rock and coral mounds, move incredibly large amounts of sand and gravel from one place to another, and sometimes manage to create quite stable burrows of their own.

 

Temperature and Water Quality

Most species thrive at temperatures of 74-80 F, and at salinities of 1.020-1.022.  However, various species range from temperate to tropical waters, so please research the natural habitats of those you keep.  Setting a light timer to mimic their natural cycle (i.e. varying the cycle for temperate species) will likely benefit their over-all health.

 

Filtration can be quite simple for small aquariums, (i.e. an under-gravel filter).  Larger aquariums will require a suitably powerful canister or other filter.  Mantis shrimp are reasonably hardy as concerns water quality but are, like many aquatic invertebrates, quite sensitive to air-borne chemicals.  Fumes from cleaning products, paints, floor waxes and such may be introduced into even covered aquariums by the filtration system, and can be toxic to mantis shrimp.  Unexplained aquarium deaths can often be attributed to chemical poisoning.

 

Feeding

Depending upon the species, mantis shrimp catch their food using either of two distinct methods.  Those which “club” their food and shatter the shell or carapace (see Part I) can take small crabs, crayfish, snails, mussels and other invertebrates.  Those that grab or spear their prey are best fed shrimp, fish and aquatic worms (the “prey bashers” will accept these as well).

 

Mantis shrimp can be quite choosy when it comes to feeding – sometimes killing a live food item, seemingly as a territorial defense, but not consuming it.  Most will, however, adjust to unfamiliar foods over time.  They will, if you work carefully, usually accept dead food from a forceps (do not use your fingers, as serious injury can result).  This takes time and experimentation – actually, it is quite comical to see them grab an unfamiliar food, retreat into their den, and then contemptuously toss it out as unpalatable!

 

Tong-feeding will allow you to provide them with a more varied diet than if you relied solely upon live food.  Frozen mussels, clams, prawn, scallops, crab, squid and various fishes are all readily accepted.  Seafood (human) markets and bait stores are also excellent sources of unique food items (different shrimp, fish, snail and abalone species, for example) – including such in your pet’s diet will go a long way in promoting good health.

 

Captive Longevity

Mantis shrimp have lived for over 20 years in captivity.

 

Handling

Mantis shrimp strike out viciously with their second pair of appendages (maxillipeds) when threatened, and can cause severe injuries requiring stitches (shrimpers and divers call them “thumb splitters”).  The speed of this movement has been calculated at over 20 miles per second, and likened to the force of a small caliber bullet.  Indeed, mantis shrimp have broken aquarium glass (this is not at all common, but watch them at feeding time).

 

They also have a strong feeding and burrow defense response, and so may attack fingers moved in their vicinity.  Always use a tongs or other similar tool when working in the tank, and use a net if handling is necessary.

 

Social Groups and Breeding

It is almost impossible to house more than 1 mantis shrimp in an aquarium, unless it is very large and complex in its set up.  That being said, their breeding behavior is fascinating (please see Part I) – pairs may remain together for 20 years and care for their eggs and each other.  It would be well worthwhile to attempt to house a pair together, just be sure to have a spare tank set up in advance. 

 

Males may be distinguished by the presence of organs known as penes.  Used to transfer sperm, these slender structures are at the base of the last pair of walking limbs.  Males of many species are also larger than females.

 

Mantis shrimp larvae are planktonic in nature, and thus not likely to survive in the aquarium, but a mated pair would be most interesting to study none the less.

 

Thanks for your interest – we have a lot to learn about these creatures, so please pass along your observations and questions.  Until next time, Frank.  

 

Additional Resources

Photos of a variety of mantis shrimp species are posted at:

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=mantis+shrimp+photos&um=1&ie=UTF-8