Also known as Chlamydiosis, Chlamydophilosis and Psittacosis, Chlamydia infection presents little danger to most bird owners, but is a real concern for others. Today we’ll take a look at this much-discussed and often misunderstood condition.
Many parrots, most pigeons and certain other birds (chickens) carry the single-celled bacterium that causes Psittacosis yet remain in good health. Read More »
While working for a bird importer in years past, I had the opportunity to hand-raise a number of finch chicks. The following information is based on recent and past experiences with the Black-Headed Mannikin (Lonchura atricapilla), also known as the Black-Headed Nun or Munia, but could be applied to a number of related birds.
The youngest chicks I’ve worked with were 4-6 days old and, like most Mannikins, had hatched in a domed nest (please see photo). They were reared in plastic containers lined with dry grass in an incubator set at 90 F (range: 86-93 F).
I feed very young finches at 2 hour intervals, from 5 or 6 AM to midnight at first, and cut back over 2 weeks or so to 6 AM – 8 PM. Hand Rearing Formula (warmed per directions) offered via syringe serves well as a base diet. Although not strictly necessary, to this I add a “drop” of peanut butter and 2 drops per syringe of sunflower oil. A bit of cooked egg yolk and a drop of Avitron, provided three times weekly, completes the feeding regime.
Despite their delicate appearance, healthy Mannikin chicks are ravenous. After a few days, they develop the amusing habit of raising one wing in order to ward off competitors…mini “jousting matches” sometimes break out!
Young Mannikins can only take a small amount at each feeding, and will choke or aspirate food into the lungs if it is forcibly squirted down their throats. The safest way to feed them is to gently release from the syringe just enough food to fill their mouths…at a frequency of every 2 hours, this will provide quite enough nourishment.
Upon fledging, the chicks should be fed on a 6AM – 8PM schedule until they begin pecking at food on their own. Most begin trying solid food on the fifth day after fledging, but this varies widely…close observation is very important at this point.
Their first meals should be offered on the cage floor, not in cups, to assure that they are aware of its presence. Seed-based Finch Nestling Food, Egg Food and cut sprouts should be available at all times.
Once the fledglings have begun to feed regularly on their own, you can gradually reduce the syringe feedings to 2-3 times per day. Continue this schedule until they lose interest in the syringe, which may take an additional 2-3 weeks. It is a mistake to rush the weaning process – birds decline in condition very rapidly at this age, and poor nutrition during the fledgling period will have lifelong consequences for their health.
Black-Headed Mannikins and related birds prefer to sleep in a nest or enclosed space, even outside of the breeding season. Fledglings raised together usually crowd into one covered nest, but provide extras in case of aggression.
Although generally quite hardy as adults, Mannikins are cold-sensitive as chicks. Until you are certain that their immune systems are functioning well, take extra care to keep the youngsters warm at night (a hot spot of 86-90 F, with an ambient temperature of 80-82 F, works well). A red or black night bulb, designed for use with reptiles, will provide heat without disturbing their day/night cycle.
Please see my article Introducing Mannikins for more information on these beautiful finches.
A video of Black-Headed Mannikins in the wild is posted here.
Black headed Finch image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by SnowmanradioFinch nest image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Kguirnela
Bird breeding is rarely as simple as putting a male and female together and hoping for the best. Even Budgerigars and others that been captive bred for thousands of generations remain influenced by ancestral behaviors. Understanding this will greatly improve our success at keeping and breeding birds in captivity.
The majority of pet trade birds are highly social creatures. Although they may squabble during the breeding season, the presence of flock-mates is a strong breeding stimulus. Indeed, many aviculturists cite the absence of additional individuals as the main reason for breeding failures among well-bonded pairs.
Even reliable captive breeders such as Budgerigars may not reproduce if held in single pairs. The addition of another pair, or even housing the pair within sight or hearing of others of their kind, often spurs nesting.
Despite the fact that group situations may encourage breeding, we must also bear in mind that birds living together form themselves into cohesive flocks. Newly introduced individuals, even those suitable as mates for unpaired birds in the flock, may be attacked, especially during the breeding season.
Oddly enough, larger flocks are often more peaceful than small groups (a rule that I’ve found applicable to creatures ranging from fishes to baboons!). Aggression tends to be meted out among several as opposed to 1 individual, and non-target birds often “get involved” and divert aggressors’ attentions.
In most cases, youngsters should be removed from their parent’s cage once they are feeding on their own. Otherwise, they may interfere with the rearing of later broods, or may be attacked by the male (monk parrots and other colonial nesting species are often exceptions).
Usually, smaller, short-lived species (lovebirds, parrotlets), and those that inhabit harsh environments (grass parakeets) are likely to attack newly-fledged youngsters Such birds are evolutionarily adapted to reproduce often, or to be ready as soon as the unpredictable rains arrive, and so are usually eager to re-nest. However, despite being opportunistic breeders, budgerigars and cockatiels are often tolerant of fledglings.
Large, long-lived parrots usually raise only a few chicks each season, and may not breed every year. Unlike the species described above, most inhabit environments that offer predictable weather patterns and food sources, and so they can “afford” to spend a great deal of time in imparting survival skills to their young. Macaws, African Gray Parrots and similar species are, therefore, usually quite tolerant of their youngsters long after they have left the nest.
Birds can be quite choosy (maddeningly so!) when it comes to mate selection. This is especially true for macaws, Amazons, African Grays and other long-lived parrots. Their pair bonds span many decades, so it behooves them to “get it right” the first time (I’ll avoid here the obvious parallels one could draw regarding our own species!). If you are intent on breeding, it would be prudent to purchase a bonded pair or individuals that mutually groom and spend time near each other.
Some species deviate from the usual “parrot pair model”. Certain Australian Parakeets, for example, have “difficult” relationships outside of the breeding season…they remain as a pair, but the females become somewhat aggressive towards the males. In the close confines of captivity, they can make life quite miserable for their unfortunate mates. As always, research your pet’s natural history thoroughly.
To read about what behaviors to expect as spring returns, please see Spring’s Effect of Parrots and Other Birds.
Hyacinth Macaw image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio
Macaws, Amazons and Conures in Ecuador image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Hjallig
Parrots that pair up well, mate, hatch eggs and feed their chicks are every bird-breeders dream. However, some such birds present us with a frustrating situation – just as the chicks begin to grow feathers, one or both of the otherwise doting parents begin to pluck at their chicks’ feathers. Bleeding and skin bruising follow, and, while the chicks usually recover, they are often left high-strung and nervous. Chicks housed in outdoor aviaries may suffer from exposure and chilling as well.
Chick-plucking is most commonly observed among peach-faced lovebirds, budgerigars and cockatiels (particularly lutino cockatiels). Attacks on the plumage usually commence when the feathers first emerge from the skin, and may continue until the time they unfurl. Oddly, the erring adults continue to feed their offspring throughout, and remain good parents once the plucking ceases.
Unfortunately, chick-plucking parents usually do not change, and subsequent offspring are usually attacked as well; there is also evidence that chicks born to “plucking parents” repeat the cycle when they mature and reproduce.
The most likely explanation for this perplexing behavior is that it results from frustrated attempts by the parents to preen the emerging feathers. Unable to perform this task properly on the thin, unfurled plumage, the anxious parents begin pulling at the feathers. The fact that most attacks are confined to the chicks’ napes and upper wings – areas not reachable by the chicks and usually attended to by the parents, lends support to this theory.
Bitter Apple Spray is often successful in deterring plumage attacks, but is best applied before plucking begins. If the chick’s skin is broken, consult your veterinarian before applying Bitter Apple or similar products.
Captive breeding, while immensely rewarding, is not without its problems. To read about other potential concerns, please see my article Spring’s Affect on Cage Birds.
Lovebird with newborn chicks image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Snowmanradio
Whitefaced lutino Cockatiel Chick image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Magnus Manske
That Bird Blog – Bird Care and History for Pet Birds
