Posts tagged Brackish Aquariums
The Wrestling Halfbeak – a Tiny Brackish Water Warrior
Oct 9th
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. This Southeast Asian fish’s slender, 3-inch- long body belies its reputation as a fearsome combatant. However, in betting parlors from Thailand to the Sunda Islands, matches between male wrestling halfbeaks (Dermogenys pusilla/pusillus) rival those featuring the better-known bettas (Betta splendens) in popularity. In contrast to bettas, battling halfbeaks rarely inflict any serious damage…other than to the billfolds of losing gamblers!
Description and Habitat
Halfbeaks sport a startling adaptation to surface feeding…their immobile lower jaw is more than twice the length of the upper. This, along with their subtle beauty – a silvery body highlighted by hints of blue and green – renders them a most unique addition to one’s collection.
Halfbeaks inhabit estuaries and other areas of fluctuating salinity, and, while sometimes kept in fresh water, are at their best in brackish water aquariums.
Feeding Wrestling Halfbeaks
Halfbeaks are highly specialized surface feeders and rarely if ever swim to lower depths in the aquarium. They tend to be picky feeders and prefer tiny live invertebrates such as mosquito larva, brine shrimps, fruit flies and Daphnia. Chopped blackworms may be taken, but these sink quickly and so must usually be offered via forceps (tedious but effective!).
Halfbeaks may be habituated to flake and frozen foods, but the progeny of such fishes rarely reproduce, most likely due to a nutritional deficiency.
The Halfbeak Aquarium
While visiting pet stores and aquariums in Japan, where halfbeaks are more commonly kept than in the USA, I was surprised to find that multiple males were often housed together. I learned that males will co-exist in large, well planted aquariums if emergent and surface-dwelling plants are grown as sight barriers. Watching the threat displays and interactions in such aquariums was most interesting, and cast these little fellows in a new light for me.
A unique habitat preference and feeding style dictates that halfbeaks be kept in long, shallow aquariums and, with few exceptions, in single-species groups.
Breeding Halfbeaks
Wrestling Halfbeaks are live bearers, with healthy females giving birth every 30 days or so; males may be distinguished by a bright red blotch located in front of the dorsal fin.
Unfortunately, adults are quite cannibalistic, and the fry rarely survive. Breeding traps are not recommended, as the birthing process takes several days and females become stressed by long confinement in small areas. Thickly-planted aquariums, with much of the vegetation at the surface, offer the best chance of success.
Further Reading
Detailed information on the natural history of these and related fishes is posted at ZipCodeZoo.com.
A book I’ve written, The Everything Aquarium Book, addresses the care of brackish water fishes in detail.
Please write in with your questions and comments.
Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio
Halfbeaks image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Neale Monks
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Loading ...Mudskippers – blurring the line between amphibian and fish
Apr 29th
Mudskippers, the largest species of which reach a length of 12 inches, inhabit tidal flats, river mouths and mangrove swamps in East Africa, Southeast Asia, Australia, and along the Red Sea.
Gill covers tightly seal the gill chambers, and water stored there keeps the gills moist and provides oxygen to the fish as it scuttles about on land. Mudskippers also absorb moisture from the damp mud upon which they usually travel when out of water. Although it is tempting to think of mudskippers as representing an early stage in the development of amphibians, the creature that gave rise to frogs and salamanders was more like the Australian lungfish, Neoceratodus fosteri, in appearance and in its method of breathing (utilizing primitive lungs).
The most commonly available mudskipper in the pet trade is Periopthalmus barbarus, a fairly hardy species that reaches a length of 6 inches. Like all mudskippers, it hails from brackish water areas.
Mudskippers are fairly tolerant in their salinity requirements, and will do well under typical brackish water aquarium conditions (salinity of 1.005-1.015) and temperatures of 75 – 80F. They require a “beach” area, which can be a separate, drainable plastic container within the main aquarium or designed as small islands fashioned from non-toxic tree roots, coral heads and rocks. The popular “aqua-terrariums” now on the market make excellent mudskipper homes as well. Remember to keep the water shallow, or to provide easy access to land, as they are poor swimmers (not something you usually worry about when keeping fish!).
Most mudskippers do well in captivity if provided with a suitable habitat. Males, however – distinguished by their large dorsal fins and bright colors – are very territorial, and dominant specimens will make life miserable for others, so plan your group and space accordingly.
Although they prey upon live invertebrates such as crabs and insects in the wild, mudskippers adjust well to frozen foods such as prawn and clams. I also provide a vegetable-based frozen food from time to time, and find they accept this readily as well. Their food should be placed on land, as most species will not feed while submerged. Mudskippers are especially fond of live crickets, small shrimp and other such foods, and these should form a large portion of their diet. Their acrobatics when chasing live food – they often flip over in their excitement – never fail to delight me.
Brackish water community tanks containing mudskippers and fiddler crabs make fascinating exhibits. The interactions between the crabs and mudskippers (assuming they are properly matched in size!) go on all day long. If you establish a deep water area (mudskippers will do okay as long as they can exit the water easily) you can add such fascinating fishes as four-eyed fish, Anableps spp., scats, Scatophagus argus and rubrifus, monos, Monodactylus argenteus, and, of course, the amazing archer fish, Toxotes chatareus. In fact, archer fish are at their best in an aquarium containing a land area because in such they can show off their incredible ability to knock crickets from land into water. Somehow compensating for the refraction of light through water, archerfish eject streams of water at insects (best observed by placing crickets on branches positioned over the water’s surface), hitting them unerringly and thus securing a meal. They will also aim water at your eye movements, so be careful!
I’ll cover the creation of such aquariums in future articles. Until then, please share your observations and write in with your questions. Thanks, Frank.
For more information on establishing aquariums for brackish water fish, please see the article Brackish Water Basics, posted on on February 26, 2008:
(+2 rating, 2 votes) Loading ...Brackish Water Aquarium Basics
Feb 26th
Brackish water is a mix of freshwater and saltwater, as in estuaries, mangrove swamps, or brackish rivers. The salinity is higher than freshwater, but less than salt water. The specific gravity should be kept between 1.005 and 1.015 for a brackish water aquarium, depending on the type of habitat. You may have to increase the salinity of the water over the fish’s lifespan; this also depends on the type of fish you plan to keep.
The basic supplies you will need to start a brackish water aquarium are as follows:
Any tank should have a Glass top or hood. Brackish water aquariums will evaporate water faster than most freshwater aquariums, given the higher temperature recommended. The use of a hood will help to reduce evaporation as much as possible.
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That will help you start. If you have any questions feel free to call us, or send us an e-mail
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