Home | Aquarium Livestock (page 48)

Category Archives: Aquarium Livestock

Feed Subscription

Contains articles featuring information, advice or answering questions regarding aquarium fish and other livestock.

Aquarium Fish Growth Myths

Eileen here. Some myths and legends are universal. Almost every country has some version of a “bigfoot” legend. Nessie is one of Scotland’s biggest celebrities. People are abducted by aliens and UFO’s are spotted in the sky around the world. What does the aquarium hobby contribute to this list?

 

“Fish only grow to the size of their aquarium.”

Like most of those other stories, this one likely started because people saw some truth behind it. They saw their fish grow large in relation to their aquarium, stop growing, then die. But, just like we now know that the Earth is not flat and we will not fall off the edge of it if we sail too far, we now know that the size of an aquarium does not dictate the size of a healthy adult fish.

The most common victim of this theory is the  comet goldfish, the fish often sold as very inexpensive feeder fish or won in carnival ping-pong ball toss games. People win the fish or buy them as inexpensive pets, not knowing that the tiny fish they took home should be able to become an 8-10 inch adult with a lifespan of 10 years or more if well cared for. “Goldfish bowls” are sold almost everywhere that carries fish supplies. Small aquariums – 10 gallons or under – are often sold with pictures of small fancy goldfish on the box so it is no wonder that people may be unaware of the problems they are walking into.

Keeping any animal, fish or otherwise, in a habitat that is too small for it causes a number of problems that might not be obvious at first. The fish people win at carnivals or purchase as small juveniles might be fine for a short time in a small aquarium, but as the fish grows, so does its requirements. Looking at the same situation in terms of a person instead of a fish, it becomes more obvious. An infant, for example, doesn’t require much space for his needs to be met. He can feed and exercise within the area of his nursery and regular cleanings can keep his nursery healthy. But, as the infant grows into a toddler, his needs also grow. He requires more space to exercise so his muscles develop properly. He is growing and needs more food and so produces more waste as a result that the same regular cleanings the infant received cannot control. As he grows through his life, that boy can certainly grow into a man if never let out of the nursery that he was kept in as an infant, but that man will not be as healthy as he could be. His hygiene and development will have suffered from being kept in a confined space and not allowed to flourish and develop properly and he will probably not live as long as a man whose environment has been allowed to grow with him.

The same happens when a fish is kept in a small tank. As the body of the fish grows, so does the amount of waste it produces and the food it needs. This can affect the water quality of the aquarium and lead to disease caused by high ammonia levels, high nitrite levels, low dissolved oxygen content, low pH and other incorrect parameters. Just as a person kept in a small space cannot grow properly, the fish would also physically not be able to grow to its full size. Its body and skeletal structure may be stunted by the lack of space and ability to exercise and swim as it should, but the internal organs often continue to grow at a normal rate. The internal damage this causes, in combination with water quality issues, will lead to a premature death.

While a small tank can certainly affect the size of the fish, it is not the way that we once believed. There is no internal sensor in a fish that can detect the size of its environment and adjust its growth accordingly. The fish we keep are  just as dependent upon us as small children to give them the proper care needed to keep them healthy so it is up to us to be aware of what their needs are and to do our best to make sure those needs are met throughout the fish’s life.

That Fish Place Aquariums and Fish Recap – Week of 8/17

Patty here, and welcome to our Friday recap. Lots of fun and interesting stuff crop up both worldwide and right here at TFP over a week’s time, so we’ve decided to start hooking you up with sweet updates on these kinds of things. Be sure to let us know what you think of these posts (The little thumbs up, thumbs down at the bottom), and feel free to send us some of the excellent things you’ve read in the comments or on Facebook.

This week’s Noteworthy Fish stuff

  • I know that a little romancing can go a long way, but who knew that a little Barry White could push a cold fish into a passionate frenzy?! At the Sea Life London Aquarium, they’re doing what they can to set the mood for poor Zorro the Zebra Shark to woo the ladies. Good luck, little guy, everybody needs a little love! http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/6054368/Barry-White-songs-used-to-encourage-shark-to-mate-in-aquarium.html
  • We already know the benefits of having live plants in the home aquarium, but it never hurts to say it again. I personally don’t think enough can be said about the benefits, and this article breaks it down in easy terms just to push the issue a little more. I mean, how would you like it if you were suddenly dumped in a bubble with only plastic trees and flowers? It would be like living on a Hollywood movie set! http://www.aquariumnews.com/only_browser/262411/
  • How lucky is this guy? I can’t say I don’t envy him! This beautiful behemoth seems to be just as fascinated by the diver as the diver is by him, so whatever he is doing to draw its attention is working, just watch out for flailing fins and tails. The amazing shots are definitely share-worthy. Sure, these are mammals and not fish, but still…. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1207590/The-underwater-dance-David-Goliath-Diver-perches-fin-friendly-50ft-humpback-whale.html
  • MACNA 21 is just a few short weeks away! The Marine & Aquarium Conference of North America (MACNA XXI) is being held in Atlantic City, NJ September 25-27, 2009. This is one of the biggest annual events for people in the industry and hobbyists alike. There are loads of exhibitors, awesome speakers scheduled raffles and tons of other fun to be had, drop the family at the shore and head to the Sheraton! Check out the homepage for full details! *Shameless plug* Your favorite Aquarium Supply store will be there too, so stop by and say hi to Dave.
    http://www.macna2009.com/
  • Meanwhile, back at That Fish Place the most exciting project going on is the newly constructed Coral Propagation room. The room will soon be slowly populated with lots captive grown frags and in house cultured frags for future sale both in the retail store and online!
  • Our 700 Display got bright new bulbs this week and a few new fish additions. If you look closely at the rock it would appear that we’ve had a spawning , as there are numerous tiny new colonies of either Pocillopora or Seriatopora appearing all over the place! Stay tuned, they have to grow out a little to be sure.
  • The results of our first cross-Facebook/Fish Catalog photo contest are in, and Michael S. from McConnellsburg, PA is the winner with this sweet pic of a Black Misbar and a Derasa Clam. Michael will receive a $100 gift card, and have his photo featured in the Fall fish catalog. Check out Michael’s picture here, and if you’re interested in entering for the Winter Fish Catalog, send your high-res photo to petsonline@thatpetplace.com.
  • Cool new stuff at That Fish Place this week

  • Spanish ShawlYou can see where the Spanish Shawl Nudibranch gets its name, flamenco anyone? Very cool but they are specialized feeders like many other nudis!
  • Chestnut Cowries eat algae when their little, but may develop a taste for sponges and softies on the side as they mature, so keep that in mind!
  • This Hawaiian Cultured Blue Maxima is A-mazing!
  • Two species of microrasboras, very cute, very tiny, maybe worth a small species tank, but probably not fitting for the average community right now due to their small size.
  • Though I’m not nuts about crazy hybrid cichlids, this Red Dragon Flowerhorn is pretty eye catching.
  • Two sweet War Coral Frags…Get them while they’re here!
  • And from ORA, Extreme Misbar Ocellaris! No two are alike!
  • Just a sampling, come see us and check out these and tons of other cool stuff!

    Until next time,

    Patty

    Live Rock: Some Common Questions

    Especially for beginners, getting what you need for setting up a saltwater or reef aquarium can be daunting.  One of the most confusing aspects of the process may be Live Rock.  Here are some common Q & A that may make it a little clearer for anyone, especially those who just starting out.

    Do I need Live Rock and what is its purpose?

    Live rock is the calcium carbonate skeletons of ancient corals and other calcareous organisms, which forms the base of coral reefs.  It is not actually “alive” but is it is usually encrusted with coralline algae and inhabited by microscopic and macroscopic marine organisms.  The organisms on the live rock help to establish the biological base of the aquarium.  The rock serves as a biological filter hosting nitrifying bacteria that fuel processes like the nitrogen cycle to eliminate organic waste.  Live rock also has a stabilizing effect on the water chemistry, especially helping to maintain constant pH by releasing calcium.  The other obvious purpose is for decoration.  The rock, once established, serves as a shelter for fish and inverts, as a decorative element encrusted with colorful coralline algaes and other organisms (that may appear to spring from its surface from nothing), and as a platform for corals that you introduce to grow onto.

    What is the difference between natural and cultured rock?

    There are many varieties of live rock.  Most are named for the region where they are harvested, and often they have distinctive forms and characteristics. Some are dense, some are lighter and more porous, some are branchy, some are plate-like, ect.  They all basically serve the same purpose, and they may be mixed and matched according to your taste and needs.  Natural rock is chipped off and collected from specified areas in designated regions.  This rock is naturally occurring and highly variable.  Cultured rock is man-made from specially mixed concrete that is formed into basic shapes and then placed in the oceans near reefs for a period of 1-5 years where it is seeded with the same micro and macro organisms as natural rock. The rock is then collected and distributed for aquariums.  Cultured rock is favorable as it has the same benefits to the aquarium, but less environmental impact and is sustainable. It is typically less variable in shape.

    How much rock do I need?

    You may hear different opinions on how much rock you need, but it will depend on what your intentions are. Generally, the rule of thumb is 1-2 lbs per gallon.  This amount can vary depending on the arrangement you want and the density of the rock.  You may choose to purchase all the rock you need when setting up the tank initially, as the rock be used to cycle the tank, and will cure in the process.  Otherwise you can buy the rock a few pieces at a time, cure it in a separate vessel then add pieces periodically until the arrangement is where you like it.  The other option is to purchase base rock and cover it with fresh live rock.  Over time the base rock will be seeded by the live rock.  Just be sure your arrangement has spaces where the water can circulate through the rock and dead zones don’t occur.

    What is curing and how do I cure rock?

    Curing Live Rock means conditioning or cycling it for use in your aquarium. Cured rock has already been conditioned and is stable to use right away in an aquarium with minimal concern of fluctuations in water chemistry.  Fresh live rock is not cured and it shouldn’t be placed directly into a main aquarium until you cure it.  The collection and shipping process of most rock involves it being out of the water for days at a time, and a lot of the organic matter on the rock dies off.  By tanking and curing the rock, you allow the rock to recover from these stresses.  The dead matter breaks down and new beneficial organisms have the chance to re-establish and freshen up.  If you purchase fresh rock, a saltwater rinse or dip and shake will help to remove loose debris and some of the dead matter to kick start the curing process.  You can learn how to cure live rock in this short video.

    How long will it take for stuff to start growing on my rock?

    Once the rock is in the tank and the rest of your set-up is complete with adequate lighting, skimmer, and circulation, additives such as calcium, iodine and strontium will encourage the growth of colorful coralline algaes, and contribute to the health of other forms of live rock growth.  As the tank establishes and becomes more stable, you’ll probably see a variety of organisms from macroalgaes to small corals and other sessile inverts.  Each tank and each piece of rock may reveal different surprises, but the important thing is patience.  Taking the time for careful set-up and maintenance and a time allowance for the tank to progress at a comfortable pace will result in a healthy and sustainable reef environment.

    Algae in Freshwater Aquariums and Ponds: a Primer (Part II)

    Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Please see Part I of this article for information on using plants and bacteria to control algae. Today I’d like to take a look at some algae-eating fishes, snails and shrimps.

    Sucker Catfishes (Plecostomus, Hypostomus, Loricarichthys spp.)
    An incredible array of fishes consume algae, with these interesting beauties being among the best known. Larger sucker cats and Chinese sailfin sharks (see article below) can also be kept in outdoor ponds.

    Thailand Flying Fox, Epalzeorhynchus kallopterus
    This nicely marked fish consumes all types of algae, and is also fond of the flatworms that sometimes arrive in aquariums along with live plants.

    Siamese Algae Eater, Crossocheilus siamensis
    This fish is similar in appearance to other, less-effective species, and is sometimes sold as the “True Siamese Algae Eater”. It does well in schools, and consumes even the coarser varieties of hair and beard algae.

    Chinese Hillstream Loach, Beaufortia kweichowensis
    This small loach is one of my favorites. It has been compared to a flounder in appearance, but reminds me of the oddly-shaped torpedo rays.

    This active loach is adapted to fast-flowing waters, and fares best in high oxygen environments. It is well-suited for removing algae from glass and plant leaves, and is rarely if ever bred in captivity…definitely a fish worth working with for those interested in breaking new ground.

    Garra pingi pingi or Pingi Log Sucker, Discognathus pingi
    Formerly rare in the trade, this stout East Asian bottom dweller has a huge appetite for algae of all types. Many aquarists find they must supplement its diet with algae wafers; those I have kept took pre-soaked kale as well.

    This is another species which would make a nice breeding project, as only wild-caught animals are available at this point.

    Algae Eater, Gyrinocheilus aymonieri
    The “standard” algae control fish in smaller aquariums, the taxonomy of this interesting species is somewhat of a mystery. While typically reaching 4 inches in length, I recall receiving shipments of individuals that topped 11 inches. I hope to keep some in an outdoor pond in the future, to see if the increased water volume might spur additional growth.

    Algae eaters relentlessly comb rocks, glass and plant leaves for algae, and will take leftover fish flakes as well.

    Freshwater Shrimp
    Almost all of the dozen or so species currently available favor algae as food. Particularly attractive is the cherry shrimp, Neocaridina denticulata sinensis. Given proper care (please see article below) they will breed prolifically, with a large group making for a spectacular display.

    Freshwater shrimp will co-exist with the fish mentioned above, but will, however, be harassed or eaten by fishes with carnivorous tendencies.

    Snails
    A number of snails live almost entirely upon algae, but many consume plants as well. Apple snails can eat a surprising number of plants overnight, while olive Nerites (please see article below) take only algae and do not reproduce in fresh water. The Japanese trapdoor snail is also a good choice, but needs warm, well-filtered water.

    Further Reading
    To learn more about some of the creatures mentioned above, please see the following articles:
    Freshwater Shrimp

    The Chinese Sailfin Shark

    The Olive Nerite

    Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

    Freshwater Shrimp: an Overview of Popular Aquarium Species – Part 2

    Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.  Please see Part I of this article for information on the care of freshwater shrimps, and for profiles of other popular species.  Today I’ll highlight a few beautiful, lesser-known species in the genus Caridina and Brazil’s yellow-bellied grass shrimp.

    Red-Nosed or Rhino Shrimp, Caridina gracilirostris

    A relative newcomer to the trade, the rhino shrimp is already quite popular.  In its native India, this shrimp inhabits salt marshes and, while it thrives in freshwater, it will not reproduce without exposure to brackish water.  It also differs from other shrimps in its propensity to swim rather than crawl.

    Rainbow Shrimp, Caridina babault

    This ¾ inch beauty occupies a huge natural range – India through Malaysia – and occurs in an equally impressive range of colors – blue, red, rust, yellow and variations thereof. 

    Black Forest Shrimp, Caridina sp.

    Dwelling in Thailand and perhaps elsewhere in Southeast Asia, this shrimp-fancier’s favorite is boldly marked with a broad white band about the body and a white-tipped head.  At 1 inch in length, it is large enough to make quite an impressive display when kept in groups.

    Brazilian Yellow-Bellied Grass Shrimp, Palaemon pantanal

    One of the few South American species in the trade, this hardy 1.5 inch long fellow is best kept in cooler waters than the aforementioned species, and is an excellent choice for an outdoor pond.  It does best at temperatures of 68-70 F, but will remain active and healthy in colder conditions as well.

    Further Reading

    For information on keeping amano, cherry and bamboo shrimps, please see An Introduction to Freshwater Shrimps.

    To learn more about a truly unique shrimp, please check out my article Keeping the African Giant Filter Shrimp.

    Please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

    Palaemon serratus image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Enrique Dans.

    Bamboo Shrimp referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Faucon