That Fish Blog – Aquarium Advice and Information

Please welcome back Patty Little for another excellent pond blog.

Surprisingly enough, “If You Build it They Will Come,” does not only apply to ghost baseball players in a former cornfield. I think a lot of people are astounded at the plants and animals that appear and establish in their back yard when they build small ornamental ponds. By creating a water feature, you invite all kinds of things from wild areas, and you may find the addition of this little oasis is more of a reward than you could have imagined. The more you are able to observe your pond, the more you are likely to see these visitors, or at least signs that they are visiting.

Whether you live in a rural, suburban or urban environment, the presence of fresh, cool, flowing water becomes an instant attraction for living things from land and air, both wanted and unwanted. I thought it might be fun to mention a few of the things you may encounter once your water feature is established.

The first thing we do to our ponds is beautify them with plants both in and around, then add some fish- koi, comets, orfes, whatever suits our fancy! Soon after, the magic begins. Think of all of those unseen eyes and keen senses suddenly aware of the newest neighborhood water resort.

You may see lots of interesting things appear beneath the surface. There are lots of insects whose larvae exist first in water, later to morph into airborne adults. These include some beetles, flies, and of course the lovely dragonflies and damselflies. Don’t rush to rid your pond of these alien-looking guys if you come across them, they will serve as a food source for more interesting visitors, and should not be harmful to large fish.

Frogs, toads, and newts may be some of the first outsiders to take residence. They love the water and the damp areas surrounding the pond, and the abundance of insects that will also be attracted to the water. These are for the most part desirable to have in the pond both for aesthetics and for insect control. In the spring, you may notice clusters of eggs and tadpoles. Most of the amphibians that survive to adulthood will probably move on when they are able, so don’t worry too much about being plagued by frogs.

Reptiles need water too, so under the right conditions it is possible that snakes and turtles native to your area may be found in and around a pond. These may come and go, and the best policy would be to leave them alone, like any other wild animal. They do not intend you or your pond any harm, and in the unlikely event that you may encounter a reptile that does warrant outside attention, contact someone at your local fish and wildlife organization before taking matters into your own hands.

Songbirds are not the only feathered visitors you’ll see. Count on water birds like ducks to stop off for a swim, and herons, egrets, and kingfishers to name a few that might stop off for a snack, particularly with fish and frogs as food offerings. The best you can do is to look for methods to deter these predators from your pond if you find them troublesome, but do not cause them any harm.

Depending on your location, anything from opossum and raccoon, to deer and bear may be curious enough to visit your pond. You may never see any sign of these visitors as many are active at night, but under duress of climactic issues (like severe drought for example) or habitat infringement, animal encounters are seemingly more and more frequent. If you should witness their visits, it is best to quietly observe and leave the animal to its own. Anyone visiting the blog from more temperate areas than Pennsylvania may have other interesting tales of visitors as well. I’ve seen footage of Florida residents with visiting alligators and even constrictors (released or lost by irresponsible keeper, now established breeding populations) in small backyard ponds…that would be a shock to see here!

Other things you may find are snails that may hitchhike in potted plants or establish from eggs on plants. Plants, particularly small floaters like duckweed may appear in your pond too. Remember that birds and animals that visit your pond have probably visited lots of other watery areas and may carry with them welcome, or unwanted, introductions to your pond. If you build it, chances are they will come, good and bad, curious and hungry, but all unique and beautiful in their own right. Welcome to the world of ornamental pond ownership!

Until Next Time, Patty

Tangs tend to be a favorite among aquarists since they are very colorful and have a taste for algae. Tangs are primarily herbivorous and need a diet rich in algae. There are many algae based food that are great for tangs including live caulerpa, nori strips, and formula 2 that comes in a frozen variety as well as flakes and pellets. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion(HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic. The open wounds that result will make the fish susceptible to other infections, and these secondary infections may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich vegetarian diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion.  Selcon, garlic guard, and vita-chem are excellent food additives.  Tangs are also susceptible to Amyloodinium and Cryptocaryon so proper quarantine is a must. Once tangs make it through the initial quarantine they are usually pretty hardy.

Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tank-mates. They don’t usually bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control. Tangs may become territorial and aggressive towards very similar tank-mates or other tangs from the same genus. Tangs are very active swimmers and should not be housed in any tank smaller than 50 gallons but larger is always better.

In our retail store we have a great selection of colorful tangs.  One of the most popular tangs that we sell would be the yellow tang, (Zebrasoma flavesence). Yellow tangs are very hardy but can bully new tank-mates. They will do best if added to a community tank last. Yellow tangs can reach a max size of 8 inches so choose their tank size accordingly.  They are very active swimmers and become rather bold. They are sure to be a bright center piece in any tank.

Another tang closely related to the yellow tang would be the purple tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum). Purple tangs are a gorgeous deep purple to blue with a bright yellow tail. They are not as readily available as some other tangs but we do have these beauties from time to time. Purple tangs are also pretty feisty once acclimated.  They can reach a max size of 10 inches so a large home is a must. 

Sailfin tangs, (Zebrasoma veliferum) and (Zebrasoma desjardinii), are one of the larger tangs with adults capable of reaching 16 inches. As juveniles both species of sailfin tangs look identical. As they mature Zebrasoma veliferum tends to retain most of its juvenile coloration where Zebrasome desjardinii will phase out its stripes and change them to spots and their overall coloration becomes muted. Sailfin tangs are rather peaceful tangs and get along with most other tank-mates, however they do not tolerate others of the same kind or genus unless they are kept in a very large aquarium.  They also have great personalities and do recognize the hand that feeds them. 

Another very popular tang is the Hippo tang (Paracanthurus hepatus).  They have a bright yellow tail and electric blue body with a black hook shaped mark overlaid on each side.  Hippo tangs tend to be shy but may bicker with other tangs in the tank from time to time.  Juvenile hippo tangs are usually found in groups but usually do best as a single specimen unless the tank is very large since adults can reach a max size around 12 inches. 

Another true beauty would be the Powder blue tang (Acanthurus leucosternon).  Powder blue tangs have a baby blue body,  yellow dorsal fin and caudal peduncle, white anal and ventral fins, and a black face with a white area below the jawline.  Powder blue tangs are one of the more delicate tangs so extreme care should be taken when transporting and acclimating this fish.  They are also notorious ich magnets so quarantining new specimens is a must.  If proper care is given powder blue tangs can reach a max size of 8 inches.         

One of my all time favorite tangs is the Achilles tang (Acanthurus achilles).  Achilles tangs are jet black with a splash of vivid orange in a teardrop shape right before the caudal fin.  The caudal fin itself is orange rimmed in white.  The dorsal and anal fins are also have a hint of orange with white and black.  Achilles tangs , like the powder blue tangs, are very delicate and rather difficult to acclimate and get to feed regularly.  However, if you are able to meet the demands of this fish they will reward you greatly with their stunning beauty.

In closing, most tangs are acceptable to be housed in a captive environment and will thrive for many years to come.  Research is the key though.  Make sure you gain as much knowledge as you can since that in turn will give the tang that you choose the best possible home next to the ocean where it come from.

Check out some videos our staff here made on basic care for the yellow tang and hippo tang at You Tube.

Until Next Time,

Melissa

Please welcome back Patty Little with an excellent species profile on a popular pond fish.

Typically, when we consider fish to populate ornamental ponds, it’s koi and goldfish that are the most well-known and sought after types chosen. If you’re in the market for a new and interesting fish, let me introduce you to the Golden Orfe.

Golden Orfes, also known as Ides, are popular and attractive pond fish. They are long and slender with peachy-orange bodies and often small black spots across the back of the fish. Orfes originated in Europe and are dark, silvery blue in their wild form. The golden form was developed by selective breeding for ornamental use. Around 1880 Orfes were first imported to the U.S. and propagated in ponds along with goldfish and carp.

Orfes are sought after for their color and behavior. These docile fish are active swimmers, often staying near the surface where that can easily feed. Though they can grow to about 18 inches or more, they are not aggressive and will not cause harm to other fish in the pond, though tiny fish and fry may be seen as a food item. They are schooling and will be most comfortable in groups of at least three. Small Orfes make great additions to ponds as their social nature may encourage other pond fish to the surface and they will dine on insects and insect larva, especially mosquitos. They are fast swimmers, and some caution should be used in shallow ponds or garden ponds with bare edges as they may become stranded if they jump out of the water.

Golden Orfes are terrifically suited for larger ponds, at least 500 gallons, and should be housed in ponds deep enough for winter survival and with plenty of area to accommodate their mature size. They thrive in cooler temperatures up to about 77 F. They also require lots of oxygen and will appreciate waterfalls, streams and fountains that agitate the surface of the water. High temperatures and still, stagnant waters are detrimental to their health.
Sexing Orfes is not an easy task, particularly when they are young. Mature breeding adult females tend to have a heavier or thicker body than males, but even if you can’t tell male from female if you have a small school of these fish odds are you will have both. Breeding comes naturally and will occur in the Spring if the fish are mature and if they are given ample space and well-maintained conditions. Orfes are similar to carp, so you may notice some chasing and courting behaviors when the fish are preparing to spawn. Huge numbers of eggs are usually expelled on submerged plants and roots in well oxygenated areas of the pond. You may or may not notice the presence of fry once the eggs hatch, and survivability will probably be very low, but these fish grow quickly, and any baby Orfes that make it will look a lot like Rosy-red Minnows.

Under the right conditions, Orfes can be interesting and beneficial additions to ornamental ponds. Look for them to be available where koi and other pond fish are sold in the Spring. They may have sporadic availability due to their popularity and may be hard to come by in areas that have very hot climates, as they do not tend to hold up well in such locations.

Thanks for the great post Patty

Until Next Time,

Dave

Please welcome back Brandon Moyer for another excellent post.

We carry hundreds of different species of fish and inverts here at That Fish Place, That Pet Place that come from all around the world.  There are, however, certain species that are no longer available to us by act of law.  Their release into the wild and the lifestyles and behaviors they exhibit has earned them the title of invasive species.  This blog is the first in a series of popular invasive pet species accounts.  One of these is commonly inquired about here at That Fish Place and is notorious worldwide.

The Northern Snakehead, Channa argus, is one species of fish that has been introduced into non-native waters where it has thrived and disrupted its new habitat.  The snakehead family originates from Asia and parts of Africa.  The Northern Snakehead, which is invasive in the United States, originates from Southeast China and Korea.  Snakeheads are apex predators, meaning that they stand at the top of the food chain and eat almost anything they can get in their mouth.  Females can release anywhere from 1,300 to 15,000 eggs during a single spawn.  They can spawn up to five times in a single year.  They can survive in waters which range in temperature from 0 to 30 degrees Celsius.  What makes them more threatening is that they can survive out of water for four days by breathing air with modified organs, even longer if they construct a muddy burrow.

The first invasive snakehead in the United States was discovered in Spiritwood Lake in California in 1997.  The first established population of snakeheads was found in Crofton, Maryland in 2002.  This population provided proof that snakeheads were able to invade and flourish in US waters.  Since then juvenile and adult snakeheads have been found in the Schuylkill River in Pennsylvania, Lake Wylie in North Carolina, Meadow Lake in New York, and several other states in the eastern United States.  When snakeheads enter a new body of water they tend to disrupt the food chain.  Juvenile snakeheads compete for food with juveniles of native species.  Adults also compete for resources with adults of native species and become so aggressive that they will also kill and eat them.

Their aggressive behavior, distinct appearance, and large size made snakeheads a popular aquarium fish, although due to their potential to invade natural ecosystems, they are illegal in over half of the United States, including Pennsylvania, Maryland, and New York.  Irresponsibility was the main cause of their invasion into US waters.  We as responsible aquarists must realize the impacts that snakeheads, and many other species of fish, may potentially have in the wild to prevent these species turning from pets to pests.

I hope that this blog was informative and illustrated the importance of keeping our pets in the aquarium.  Check back for more invasive species blogs. Photo courtesy of the U.S. Geological Survey.

Thanks Brandon!

Until Next Time,

Dave

Welcome back Patty Little to That Fish Blog!

Clams and other bivalves are well known for their filtering capabilities, absorbing toxins and nutrients from natural waterways both freshwater and saltwater. While clams and their relatives are common to reef aquaria, there are also clams available for freshwater tanks. The clams offered most commonly by pet stores are Corbicual sp. from freshwater Asian waterways. They can be interesting and beneficial additions to freshwater tanks, so I thought it might be worth a little article to help anyone along that may be considering the addition of these inverts.

These clams grow to about two inches across, and may live for months or years depending on their living conditions. They range in color from golden tan to black, and sometimes accumulate algae on their shells. They can be housed in even small tanks, 5-10 gallons, as long as they have enough water movement, decent filtration, and are provided with supplemental food when necessary. These clams should thrive in temps from 65-82 F and will need somewhat harder water to maintain a healthy shell. They are also best suited to an aquarium with a fine substrate bed as they like to burrow into the sand. You will be able to see the clam’s siphon as it protrudes.

Clams feed by filtering detritus and nutrients from the water column. Depending on your tank, you may or may not need to supplement your clam with invertebrate foods, as in many cases they will take in what they need when you feed your fish and as they stir through the substrate. The result should be a cleaner and clearer aquarium.

Now for some cautionary notes. First, be sure that you house your clam with appropriate tank mates. Avoid housing them with predatory fish and other carnivores like many cichlids, puffers, rays, and bottom dwelling shrimp and crayfish that may agitate the clam. Though they are buried, their tissues are delicate and can be easily damaged, and if they are frightened or disturbed, they will not be able to feed and may starve. Remove your clams if you must treat your aquarium for any reason, particularly with copper based medications, as they cannot tolerate any copper in the water.

Though you may find freshwater clams and mussels in local ponds, streams, rivers, and lakes, it is generally a bad idea to collect species from the wild for use in a home aquarium. Wild specimens may be carriers of disease and tiny parasites that can be detrimental to captive fish. As they absorb toxins, these toxins may also be released into the otherwise pristine water you maintain. The other issue is that some bivalve species reproduce by releasing tiny larvae. These larvae may attach to the slime coat or gill filaments of your fish, and the resulting infection may be deadly. It is best to purchase clams from a reputable dealer so you know what you are introducing.

Finally, though it should be common sense, as responsible aquarists or keepers of any non-native species, clams and aquarium water should never be disposed of or introduced to waterways for any reason. Introduction of non-native species can have horrific results. Use caution and be responsible with any plant or animal you may not be able to care for by contacting other enthusiasts, pet stores, or authorities for safe solutions to finding a new home to prevent serious environmental impact.

Thanks Patty,

Until Next Time,

Dave