That Reptile Blog » Terrariums and Vivariums

UVB Light: Why Do Reptiles Need It, and Which UVB Bulbs are Best?

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 10 May 2013 15:29:50 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Our understanding of the role that Ultraviolet B Light plays in the lives of reptiles and amphibians has increased greatly over the last few decades, but we still have much to learn about the needs of individual species. A good deal of conflicting information has been published, and opinions differ even among my well-experienced herpetologist colleagues. Today I’ll provide some basic information on UVB light in natural and captive situations, including some tips as to how best to provide it to the animals under your care. I’d like to stress that many variables will affect your individual situation…please post below for specific information.

What is Ultraviolet B (UVB) Light?

The various types of light are characterized by different wavelengths, which are expressed in nanometers (nm). There are three types of Ultraviolet Light, two of which are important to reptile and amphibian husbandry.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Gary2863 at en.wikipedia

UVB Light has a wavelength of 280- 320 nm. Many reptiles synthesize Vitamin D3 (or, more specifically, Pre-Vitamin D/Cholecalciferol) in their skin when exposed to UVB light. The optimum range for Vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles is 290-315 nm.

Why is UVB Needed?

Certain reptiles seem dependent upon skin-manufactured Vitamin D3, and cannot use D3 contained in the food that they eat. Therefore, vitamin supplements will not meet their needs. Rather, these reptiles must bask in the sun or under UVB-emitting bulbs.

Reptiles need Vitamin D3 in order to absorb and use Calcium. Without adequate supplies of both nutrients, a condition commonly known as Metabolic Bone Disease will develop. Afflicted animals pull Calcium from their bones and replace it with fibrous tissue, and in the process suffer growth deformities and difficulties in locomotion and feeding.

Which Animals Need UVB?

As far as we know, heliothermic reptiles – those that regularly bask in the sun – need UVB in order to produce Vitamin D3 in the skin. Examples include most semi-aquatic turtles and diurnal (day-active) lizards, and all tortoises and crocodilians. Some of these also seem able to use dietary Vitamin D3 to varying extents, but details are lacking and most do poorly if denied UVB exposure.

Snakes, Common Snapping Turtles and other aquatic turtles, and nocturnal lizards (i.e. Leopard Geckos) are able to obtain D3 from their food. Captives generally do fine without UVB light, provided that sufficient D3 is present in the diet. Many if not all can also manufacture D3 in the skin, so UVB bulbs may be useful as “insurance”.

Amphibians utilize dietary D3, and most seem not to require UVB exposure. There is some evidence, however, that low levels may be of use to Poison Frogs and other diurnal species. As field studies have shown that plant cover does not block all UVB, it follows that diurnal amphibians will receive some exposure. On the other hand, the skin and eggs of some amphibians contain chemicals that filter-out UVB. We still have a great deal to learn.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by JJ Harrison

Providing UVB to Pet Reptiles and Amphibians

Natural sunlight is the best source of UVB, but please remember that overheating can occur quickly, and that UVB does not penetrate glass or most plastics. Screen cages offer options in some situations…please see this article for further information.

Florescent UVB Bulbs

In recent tests, the Zoo Med 5.0 and 10.0 Bulbs were found superior to several other models (please see this article). The highest UVB levels occur within 6 inches of the bulb; UVB output declines by 80-90% at 18 inches. Therefore, your pet’s basking site should be within 6-8 inches of the bulb.

Basking sites of varying distances should be provided, as reptiles will adjust their exposure as needed. Some chameleons, for example, modify their basking behavior in accordance with the Vitamin D3 content of their diets (please see article linked below). If a basking site cannot be arranged near the bulb, a shallow “basking enclosure” may be necessary…please post below for further information.

Florescent bulbs stop emitting UVB after a time, but will continue to give off visible light. Therefore, it is important to make a note of your bulb’s useful life. Zoo Med offers a free email “replacement reminder” service.

Florescent UVB Bulbs provide little heat. Situating one near an incandescent basking bulb will ensure that your pet receives UVB exposure each time it seeks warmth.

Halogen and Mercury Vapor UVB Bulbs

Halogen and Mercury Vapor Bulbs generally emit higher levels of UVB than florescent bulbs, and broadcast it over greater distances. They also give-off heat, and so may eliminate the need for an additional heat source.

Full Spectrum Bulbs

Aquarium bulbs labeled as “Full Spectrum” usually emit little if any UVB.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by JamieS93

Which UVB Bulb is Best for my Pet?

Your pet’s natural will determine which UVB bulb to select. Unfortunately, however, few studies have been done on the specific needs of individual reptiles. But experience has provided important lessons…please post below for information on the animals in your collection.

In general, UVB exposure is very important to desert-dwellers, species that bask frequently in the wild, and young, growing individuals.

Low-output UVB bulbs, such as the Zoo Med 2.0 , are designed for use with Arrow Poison Frogs and other amphibians that may benefit from some exposure. If you decide to use a low output UVB, be sure to provide your frogs with shelters that allow them to avoid the light.

Measuring UVB

UVB meters provide an accurate means of measuring your pet’s exposure and will also enable you to keep track of the decline in UVB output as your bulbs age. As reflection from various surfaces, the type of terrarium cover used and other factors can radically affect the amount UVB that reaches your pet, a UVB meter is an essential item for every serious reptile keeper. Please post below for links to suppliers.

What About Ultraviolet A (UVA) Light?

UVA light has a wavelength of 320-400 nanometers. Although perhaps not essential, UVA can greatly improve your pet’s quality of life and breeding potential.

UVA helps regulate circadian rhythms, seasonal changes in activity levels, appetite and other important processes, and may be critical to successful reproduction in certain reptiles. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Providing UVA to Reptiles and Amphibians

Vitamin D and Chameleon Basking Behavior: an Interesting Study

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UVB Light: Why Do Reptiles Need It, and Which UVB Bulbs are Best?

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The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:06:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Like most lifelong animal keepers, I consider myself to be a fairly good judge of humidity levels in the home terrariums and zoo exhibits under my care. But when I began working in new buildings equipped with state-of-the-art hygrometers (humidity gauges), I quickly realized that I had much to learn. I was especially surprised to discover how widely humidity levels can vary within even a small enclosure, and how this can affect every facet of an animal’s life. The accurate, easy-to-use humidity gauges now available offer us the chance to provide better care to our charges and perhaps to uncover important new details about their lives.

Recent Innovations in Humidity Monitoring

Over the past several decades, hobbyists and zoos have greatly expanded the number of rare and delicate species that can be kept and bred in captivity. Many of these successes have been due to an increased understanding of the roles that UVB, temperature, diet and other such factors play in their lives.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Luc Viatour

Humidity levels have also been taken into account by serious animal owners, but this topic has been given less attention than others. This is partially because many reptiles, and some amphibians and invertebrates, can meet their needs by soaking in a water bowl or retreating to a moist shelter. But the real obstacle has been the unavailability of affordable hygrometers designed for use with animals. Happily, humidity gauges that fit just about every terrarium and budget are now available, and all are very simple to use (since I can do it!).

Areas of Special Concern

While all animals are to some degree affected by humidity levels, certain captives require closer monitoring than others. Humidity levels are crucial when most species are shedding/molting. Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, hermit crabs, mantids and other invertebrates easily become, as we say, “stuck in the molt” when humidity levels are too low. While we can sometimes assist them in this situation, most die.

Reptiles and amphibians usually survive dry molts, but problems ranging from fungal/bacterial infections beneath old skin to digit loss and retained eye caps may result. Poison frogs and other small, highly active amphibians, and those that remain in the open when resting, as do most treefrogs, are especially at risk from overly-dry conditions. Please see the articles below for further information on herp and invertebrate shedding concerns.

Humidity plays an important role in activity levels, cutaneous respiration, reproduction, immune system function, skin health and a wide variety of other processes. With so many amphibians in dire need of captive breeding these days, I believe it is critical that we begin to record our observations concerning humidity levels. Please consider using a hygrometer and relaying your thoughts by posting below; I’ll be sure to pass the information along, thanks.

The Zilla Humidity and Temperature Digital Gauge

This is my favorite gauge for average to large terrariums. The separate probes for temperature and humidity attach to the glass via suction cups, allowing for easy movement so that various areas of the terrarium (cave, basking site, etc.) can be monitored. I find the thin, 59 inch-long wires connected to the probes to be especially valuable. In smaller enclosures, the wires can be rolled up and secured with a twist-tie. The unit itself measures only 4 x 1 ½ inches, and is quite unobtrusive. It remains outside the terrarium, and features a built-in stand and a notch for wall mounting.

The Zilla Gauge monitors a humidity range of 10-99% and temperatures from -58 F to 158 F (if your pet requires conditions outside of those ranges, it likely belongs in a zoo!). “Comfort”, “Wet” and “Dry” messages are displayed at certain readings. While these are general in nature and will not apply to all species, many hobbyists find them useful. Temperatures can be displayed in either Fahrenheit or Celsius.

The unit also features an alarm, which can function as a reminder to check the terrarium or administer medications (if you sleep as lightly as I, it might also serve as an alarm clock!).

The Zoo Med Dual Humidity Gauge and Thermometer

Although marketed for use with hermit crabs, this small (3” x 1 ½”) gauge is ideal for small to moderately-sized terrariums housing most any species. Despite being quite inexpensive, it is accurate and stands up well to both damp and hot conditions.

The temperature and humidity levels are displayed side-by-side on brightly-colored, easy-to-read dials. “Dry”, “Optimum” and “Wet” ranges (for hermit crabs) are shown in different colors. The gauge attaches to glass with a sturdy Velcro strip.

Being colorful and simple to read, the Zoo Med Gauge is a great way to introduce youngsters to the concept of monitoring and recording environmental conditions. I plan to present several to my 5-year old nephew (shown here examining his “pet” mosquito larvae, much to his mom’s chagrin!) for use with his fire salamanders and domino roaches.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Supplies for Red Eared Sliders and Similar Turtles

thatpetblog — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 17:16:25 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Tempted to buy that tiny green turtle being offered for a mere dollar or two? While Red-Eared Sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans) can make an interesting and responsive pets, their care is far more complicated (and expensive!) than most new owners expect. In perhaps no other animal is the distinction between initial price and long term cost of care so great. Furthermore, the care guidelines offered by many sellers are often overly-simplified and inaccurate. Following is a list of everything you’ll need to provide a proper home for Red Eared Sliders and other species with similar lifestyles (i.e. Map, Painted and Side-Necked Turtles, Cooters), along with notes concerning each item. An in-depth article about Slider care and natural history is posted here.

Do Not Buy Hatchlings!

Although newly-hatched Sliders are still offered for sale, usually at fairs, carnivals and street stalls, it is illegal to sell them (or any turtle less than 4 inches in length) in the USA, and has been since 1975. The law was enacted by the Food and Drug Administration in response to Salmonella outbreaks linked to hatchlings. For further information on the Salmonella- turtle connection, please see this article.

Because Sliders grow much faster than most owners expect, turtle rescue organizations are swamped with unwanted pets. Please consider adopting rather than purchasing a turtle; please post below if you need adoption assistance.

The Aquarium

Sliders grow rapidly, and may attain full size within 2-4 years. Females reach 8-12 inches in both length and width (think large dinner plate) while males generally top out at 6 inches. Being quite active, an adult female will require a 55-75 gallon aquarium at minimum; a male might get by in a 30 gallon, but more room (for either sex) is preferable.

Zoo Med’s Turtle Tub makes an excellent home for large and small Sliders.

Children’s wading pools or koi ponds are often easier to manage than aquariums, especially if you have more than one turtle. Plastic storage bins can easily be modified into low-cost turtle homes. Please post below for further information.

Basking Site

Red-Eared Sliders need a non-abrasive surface on which to rest and dry off. The basking site should be located beneath a heat and UVB bulb, so that your turtle can attain its ideal body temperature and manufacture Vitamin D3 within the skin (see Heat and UVB Bulbs, below).

I prefer basking sites that are suspended at the water’s surface, as these do not take up valuable swimming space. Zoo Med’s Turtle Dock features a sloping ramp and is available in several sizes.

Larger individuals may partially submerge platforms that attach to aquarium glass, and hence will not be able to completely dry-off while basking. The Penn Plax Turtle Pier has a gravel reservoir to offset the weight of larger turtles, and also provides a sub-surface hiding and resting spot.

Cork bark also works well, especially if wedged between the aquarium’s sides.

Filter

You can do without a filter if your turtle lives in an easily-emptied plastic bin. However, filtration is essential if you maintain these messy feeders in an aquarium. A wide variety of submersible and canister filters, designed specifically for use with turtles, are now available. Please see this article to read about my favorite types. A siphon will simplify waste removal and partial water changes.

Feeding Enclosure

Although not essential, a separate feeding enclosure, such as a plastic sweater box, will ease the filter’s job and limit the frequency of water changes. Please see this article for more on maintaining water quality.

Water Heater

Use a “turtle proof” submersible heater to maintain your Slider’s water at 76-82 F and a reptile thermometer to monitor water and air temperature.

Heat Bulb

An incandescent “spot type” bulb should be employed to heat the basking site to 85-90 F. The basking light will usually warm the rest of the enclosure sufficiently (78-82 F). If additional heat is needed, red/black night bulbs or ceramic heater-emitters may be added.

Ultra Violet-B (UVB) Bulb

Red Eared Sliders need daily exposure to UVB light. Your turtle should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0 . Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well.

Natural sunlight is ideal, but be aware that UVB rays do not penetrate glass or plastic, and that fatal overheating can occur quickly.

Substrate

Sliders are best kept in bare-bottomed aquariums; gravel traps dirt, complicates cleaning, and may be swallowed.

Food

Young Red-Eared Sliders are largely carnivorous, but increasingly consume plants as they mature. By adulthood, vegetation forms the bulk of the diet.

Reptomin Food Sticks and trout chow provide excellent nutrition; either can serve as up to 50% of the diet.

Dandelion, kale, mustard and collard greens, romaine, endive and aquarium plants such as Elodea, Anachris, Watersprite and Duckweed should be offered.

Whole freshwater fishes such as minnows and shiners are the best source of calcium (and other valuable nutrients) for turtles. Offer fish at least once weekly, but use goldfishes sparingly (please see this article).

Other important food items that should be a regular part of the diet include earthworms, canned snails and fresh or freeze-dried shrimp and krill. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms and other insects may be offered on occasion.

Although best known to most folks as pets, Sliders also have a fascinating natural history. Please see the articles below to read about their lives in the wild.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Chameleons as Pets – 5 Things You Should Know Before Getting a Chameleon

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 26 Dec 2012 16:32:00 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Perhaps the most fantastically-bizarre of all lizards, chameleons have long been popular in private and public collections. However, the world’s 195 species, ranging in size from the 1.5 inch-long Pygmy Leaf Chameleons (Rhampholeon spp.) to the 30 inch Oustalet’s Chameleon (Furcifer oustaleti), often prove to be difficult captives. Although great strides have been made, chameleon husbandry remains challenging, if intriguing. The following points, drawn from notes taken during my years working at the Bronx Zoo, are useful to consider before embarking on a chameleon-keeping venture.

Chameleons Do Not Like Company – Human or Otherwise!

Wolverines and Tasmanian Devils are more sociable than the average chameleon! Highly territorial, both males and females will fight among themselves and with the opposite sex. Pairs may get along in large, heavily-planted enclosures, but they must be watched closely.

Chameleons abhor handling, and are best considered as animals to observe only. Don’t worry, for when properly kept, chameleons will reward you by exhibiting fascinating behaviors…but this will not be the case if you disturb them with unnecessary handling!

Chameleons are Easily Stressed, but Often Appear Content

Here we come to one of the most important and misunderstood concepts in chameleon husbandry. Chameleons are slow-moving and instinctively freeze or drop to the ground when threatened. They are easy to grab and often remain in place when deposited on an arm or shoulder, leading us to believe that all is well.

Some individuals may react to handling by changing color or gaping, but they do not snap, thrash about, run off, or drop their tails as do many other lizards. Inexperienced owners often misinterpret the lack of vigorous protest as an “acceptance” of handling. However, be assured that your pet’s stress hormones are surging, and that this will have a deleterious effect on its immune system and health.

Being relatively inactive, chameleons may seem blissfully unaware of what is going on outside their cages. Again, their reliance on camouflage limits overt signs of agitation. However, they have keen eyesight and miss nothing; indeed, the mere sight of a dominant individual can stress others, even if the animals are housed separately.

Chameleons Need a Highly-Varied Diet

No chameleon will thrive on a diet comprised of 2-3 insect species…even if all food items are nutrient-loaded and powdered with supplements. I’ve done well by relying heavily upon wild-caught invertebrates. Moths, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, tree crickets, katydids, harvestmen, earwigs, “smooth” caterpillars and a variety of others are accepted (far more enthusiastically than crickets!) by all. Please see these articles for tips on collecting insects.

Useful commercially-available insects include roaches, crickets, butterworms, super mealworms, caliworms, silkworms, hornworms and locusts. Feeders should be provided a healthful diet before use. Canned grasshoppers, snails, and silkworms may be offered via feeding tongs. Please see this article for further information.

Chameleons Need Large, Well-Ventilated Cages

Despite being relatively sedentary, chameleons need lots of space and plentiful sight barriers, and are stressed by small, bare cages. Specific requirements vary by species and individual, but be prepared for surprises. I’ve had Parson’s and Oustalet’s Chameleons that remained ill at ease until relocated to room-sized exhibits. In fact, some chameleon fanciers dedicate entire rooms of their homes to a pair, or even an individual. Ample climbing space and ventilation is also critical to their well-being.

Custom-made cages, commercial screen terrariums and modified bird aviaries, stocked with branches, vines and live plants, are among the best options for captive chameleons. Heavy plant cover will put your chameleon at ease, and you’ll see more of interest than would be the case in a bare enclosure.

Avoid Wild-Caught Chameleons

I remember well the days when only wild-caught chameleons were available in the USA. Collection and shipment wrecked havoc on the delicate creatures, and even with the best of care and veterinary attention, losses were high. Today, certain popular species, including the Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis), are still collected more often than bred.

Wild-caught chameleons are usually plagued by a variety of health concerns, including dehydration, depressed immune systems, parasites, retained eggs, malnutrition and shipment-related injuries. Please see this article, and be sure to purchase only captive-bred animals.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Ant Control for Reptile and Amphibian Owners – Diatomaceous Earth

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 15 May 2012 18:46:17 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Drawn by uneaten food, shed skins and other organic material, ants sometimes become pests around reptile, amphibian and invertebrate collections. As pesticides are harmful to humans and other creatures alike, eliminating ants in areas used by pets and people takes some care. Today I’d like to highlight a substance that I used with great success in various zoos, and which works equally well at home – diatomaceous earth.

A Most Formidable Insect

Famed entomologist E.O. Wilson has demonstrated that ants “rule” many habitats, driving evolution and other processes to a degree that is hard to imagine. What little work I’ve done with them has convinced me that they are, at the very least, extremely resourceful creatures. When working with Leaf Cutter Ants (Atta cephalotes) at the Bronx Zoo, I observed a dramatic increase in egg production shortly after empty nesting chambers were added to the colony’s enclosure – the workers somehow communicated to the queen that more space was available, and more bodies were needed. This likely holds true for other species as well – killing a few dozen workers will not reduce ant numbers but instead may set up a call for more eggs!

Boric Acid

Toxins that are taken to the nest and shared among the colony can be effective against Pharaoh Ants (Monomorium pharaonis, the most common indoor ant in many locales) and other species. You can create your own ant poison by mixing 2 tablespoons of Boric Acid to 6 tablespoons of sugar, and dissolved the paste in a quart of water; this mixture will also kill crickets and roaches. As with pesticides, however, there is a chance that your insectivorous pets may consume ants that have fed upon boric acid.

Diatomaceous Earth

I much prefer diatomaceous earth, the crushed remains of prehistoric diatoms (algae-like organisms), to pesticides and boric acid. I can’t imagine how people came up with the idea to harvest this unusual resource, but it has long been used for a variety of purposes; amazingly, the famed White Cliffs of Dover are comprised largely of fossilized diatoms (please see photo).

Aquarists know diatomaceous earth as an excellent filtering medium that is used in specially-designed diatom filters. A slightly different product, marketed as pet/food-grade diatomaceous earth is utilized by dog and cat owners to combat internal and external parasites.

Diatomaceous earth is a desiccant, in that it kills insects by drawing moisture from their bodies. I believe it also clogs the spiracles, and so may interfere with respiration. Of course, an ant colony can send workers to replace those that are killed, but this seems not to happen for very long once diatomaceous earth is used. Ants lay down scent trails for others to follow…I imagine that if workers do not return from foraging trips (i.e. if they encounter diatomaceous earth and are killed), then that particular route is abandoned in time. Diatomaceous earth will also kill roaches and crickets, but in my experience molasses traps are more effective…more on this technique in the future.

Note: the product used in filters is different from that marketed for use on dogs and cats; only pet grade diatomaceous earth should be used for ant control.

Favorable Qualities

I particularly like the fact that diatomaceous earth can be used around kitchen sinks and other areas frequented by people. Also, pet grade diatomaceous earth can be consumed by dogs and cats without ill effects (check label for any precautions re amounts consumed).

When pushed into cracks along walls, it will remain in place for years if kept dry. In fact, I’ve noticed that diatomaceous earth barriers remain intact even when splashed with a bit of water. Diatomaceous earth is not easily dispersed by air movement, and tends to remain stationary even as people walk nearby.

Safety Concerns

Care should be taken that this product is not inhaled or allowed near one’s eyes. People with certain respiratory conditions should not use diatomaceous earth. Please consult your doctor or write in for references to experts if you have any questions.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Asian or Chinese Water Dragon – Captive Care and Common Health Concerns

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 14:28:36 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Asian or Chinese Water Dragon (Physignathus cocincinus) superficially resembles the Green Iguana and is popular with those iguana fans lacking the space for a 6 foot-long lizard. Alert, beautifully-colored and interesting, they are among the best of all large lizard pets. Water Dragons are subject to several unique health concerns but, as will be explained, all can be easily avoided.

Asian Water Dragons range from southern China through Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. They are always found near water, frequenting riversides, swamps and canals. The less-common Eastern Water Dragon, Physignathus leseurii, may also be kept as described below.

Behavior

Water Dragons are alert and somewhat high-strung, and will run from noises, cats, dogs, and other threats. In the wild, frightened individuals drop from branches to the water or dash into heavy cover; captives retain this instinct and are often injured during escape attempts. While most calm down and accept gentle handling, always avoid startling your pet.

Captive longevity averages 10-15 years. An Eastern Water Dragon under my care at the Bronx Zoo was still going strong at age 17.

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Water Dragons forage on the ground but are otherwise arboreal. They will be stressed if kept in enclosures that do not allow climbing opportunities.

Youngsters may be raised in large aquariums. However, a tendency to run along the glass leaves them prone to snout and jaw injuries. Cardboard borders along the lower 3-4 inches of the tank’s sides will help to discourage this.

Larger individuals (males reach 3 feet in length; females average 2 feet) are best housed in custom cages or homemade enclosures. A single adult will need a home measuring approximately 4 x 4 x 4 feet. More height – 6 feet or so – would be even better. The Basilisk enclosure pictured here, which I set up for the Brooklyn Children’s Museum, would work well for a pair of Water Dragons. In suitable climates, large outdoor enclosures, including pre-fabricated bird aviaries, make excellent “luxury accommodations”.

Numerous stout branches should be provided. Sturdy live (Pothos, Philodendron) and artificial plants should be added. Water Dragons always live near heavy cover and are ill-at-ease in bare terrariums. Never position rocks below braches, as startled lizards may jump to the floor and be injured.

A water bowl large enough for bathing must be provided. Large pools serviced by submersible filters are ideal.

Substrate

The substrate should be capable of holding moisture and soft enough to cushion falls. A mix of cypress mulch works well. Avoid fine substrates such as peat and coconut husk, which tend to lodge around the eyes and jaws.

Light

Water Dragons will not thrive without a source of Ultra-Violet B light. Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

If a florescent bulb is used (the Zoo Med 10.0 UVB Bulb is ideal), be sure that all animals can bask within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and provide UVA radiation as well.

Heat

The ambient air temperature should range from 82-88 F, with a basking spot of 95-100 F. Incandescent bulbs should be used to maintain these temperatures. At night, temperatures can dip to 75 F. A ceramic heater or red/black reptile night bulb can be used after dark.

Large enclosures will enable your pet to thermo-regulate, or adjust its body temperature by moving from hot to cooler areas. This behavior, important to good health, is not possible in small cages.

Humidity

Water Dragons require high humidity (i.e. 80%) and the opportunity to dry off as well. The terrarium should be misted twice daily. Large bathing pools and reptile foggers can be used to increase humidity.

Companions

Males are territorial and will fight savagely. Females often co-exist, but may also battle for dominance.

Sex is difficult to determine until the lizards reach a length of 14-18 inches. As compared to females, males have wider heads, prominent crests and larger jowls.

Feeding

Water Dragons need a varied diet. Those fed crickets and mealworms alone invariably contract developmental diseases.

Whole vertebrates such as minnows, shiners and pink mice are the best means of meeting their high calcium requirements. Pink mice should be used less often than fishes (once each 7-14 days), and furred rodents are best avoided. Earthworms and crayfishes are especially good food items, and always greeted with relish.

Gut loaded (please write in for details) roaches, waxworms, crickets, butterworms, silkworms, super mealworms and canned invertebrates (grasshoppers, snails, silkworms) should all be provided.

Wild Water Dragons add plants to their diet as they mature, but captives often reject non-living foods. Adding live insects to a bowl of kale, dandelion, apples, peaches and other produce may encourage them to sample the salad.

Food (other than vertebrates) should be powdered with Zoo Med ReptiCalcium with D3 or a similar product. Vitamin/mineral supplements such as ReptiVite with D3 should be used 2-3 times weekly.

While ingested substrate is usually passed, food is best offered in bowls or via tongs to limit potential problems.

Health Considerations

Females may be troubled by retained eggs and other reproductive disorders if they do not mate. In order to avoid these life-threatening conditions, unmated females should be spayed. Gravid females need an appropriate nesting site…please write in for further information.

Water Dragons are prone to snout and jaw injuries that result from rubbing against glass and screening; wounds often become infected and should be treated immediately. A change in the enclosure’s set-up and/or location often resolves this problem. Please write in for additional ideas.

Fine/gritty substrates may lodge along the gums and around the eyes.

Wild-caught individuals are usually afflicted with various parasites and should be examined by a veterinarian.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Futher Reading

Video: male Water Dragon displaying (semaphoring)

Asian Water Dragon Natural History

Eastern Water Dragon Natural History

Water Dragon by Jakub Hałun (Own work) [GFDL (www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Basilisk Babies and Basilisk by Kerstin Franke (Tinie) (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-2.0-de (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/de/deed.en), GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)], via Wikimedia Commons

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Asian or Chinese Water Dragon – Captive Care and Common Health Concerns

The post Asian or Chinese Water Dragon – Captive Care and Common Health Concerns appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The Natural History and Captive Care of the Green and Black Poison Frog

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 19:45:39 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I’ve always favored the boldly-marked Green and Black Poison (or “Dart”) Frog, Dendrobates auratus, over most of its relatives. This was a turn of good fortune for me, as this gorgeous creature is one of the largest and easiest of the poison frogs to maintain. It is also not at all shy – while working in Costa Rica, I was surprised at how easy wild ones were to observe – and makes a wonderful exhibit animal. Green and Black Poison Frogs have become almost common in the trade, yet many remain unaware of some surprising aspects of their lives in the wild.

Little-Known Facts

First a few notes that have surprised me over the years.

Hobbyists accustomed to seeing these frogs in terrariums may be surprised to learn that wild specimens sometimes venture into forest canopies over 100 feet above ground…quite a climb for a minute frog!

Females wrestle one another for mating rights, and actively court males, who may ignore them until “tapped” on the back. They may also consume the eggs of rival females.

Male Green and Black Poison Frogs may mate with up to 6 females, and care for the broods of each simultaneously. Despite this, males seem able to “predict” hatching times, and seem always on hand to transport the tadpoles to water.

In those wild populations studied, ants were found to form the bulk of the diet.

At least 25 distinct color morphs have been identified. Some individuals vary so much from the “norm” that they appear to be of an entirely different species.

Description

One of the larger members of the family Dendrobatidae, Green and Black Poison Frogs range from 1 to 1.7 inches in length, and are stoutly built.

In typical specimens, the dorsal surface is brilliant green on a black background, and the stomach is mottled with yellow, blue or orange. There are, however, at least 25 different color phases, with background colors ranging from nearly white to blue-green. Pattern varies greatly as well, and may be in the form of wide or thick stripes, dots, circles or a combination thereof.

Range

This frog ranges from southeastern Nicaragua and southeastern Costa Rica to extreme northwestern Columbia. They were introduced to Oahu, Hawaii, in 1932, and thrive there today.

Habitat

Humid lowland rainforests are favored, and many populations are limited to the forest interior. However, I have observed them in rather open habitats in Costa Rica, and researchers report that the species adapts well to some habitat modification.

Status

This frog is sometimes common within its range, but there is concern as the range itself is quite small. They breed well in zoos and private collections.

Reproduction

The reproductive behavior is among the most complicated in the amphibian world.

Male frogs establish territories of up to 5 meters square in areas of high population density, but are more tolerant where populations are smaller. They call with an insect-like buzz, and may mate with up to 6 females (males care for multiple clutches of eggs simultaneously). Females wrestle with others and chase them from the male’s territory, and will consume their rivals’ eggs. Females are ignored upon first responding to the male’s call, and court him by standing on his back and tapping and pushing with their feet and legs.

The female is eventually led to a nest site below the leaf litter, where she lays 4-6 eggs, which are externally fertilized. The male moves from clutch to clutch, shedding water on the eggs, rotating them and removing fungus. Males seem able to predict hatching, and are nearly always present at that time (hatching occurs in 10-14 days). The male carries the tadpoles, usually 1 at a time, on his back and transports them to temporary pools of water in tree holes or bromeliad bases.

The tadpoles feed upon algae, detritus, small invertebrates and each other, and transform in 9-15 weeks.

Diet

Ants form the bulk of the diet, but termites, springtails, millipedes, beetle, flies and other tiny invertebrates are also taken.

Skin Toxins

This frog, and others within the family Dendrobatidae, secretes virulent skin toxins (histrionicotoxins, batrachotoxins and others) when disturbed. The toxins are derived from ants, millipedes and, perhaps, other invertebrates.

A compound isolated from the secretions of the Phantasmal Poison Frog, Epipedobates tricolor, shows great promise as a pain medication. It is more effective than morphine, non-addictive, and non-sedating.

The use of frog toxins on hunting darts was first reported in the literature in 1823, by British naval captain C. Cochrane. A jaguar shot with a toxin-treated dart was said to die within 4-5 minutes.

Please see the article below for further information.

Captive Care

Green and Black Poison Frogs do very well if provided for properly, and often reward owners by breeding regularly. Their care and breeding follows that of the Blue Poison Frog; please see the article below for details.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook . Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Captive Care of the World’s Largest Snake – Keeping the Green Anaconda

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 16:08:11 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. For a snake enthusiast such as I, not much can top the thrill of working with Green Anacondas (Eunectes murinus), in the wild and breeding them in captivity. I consider myself very fortunate, and realize that the childhood dream I was able to live is not available to most people. So I’m somewhat torn when asked to comment on Anacondas in private collections. Capable of killing an adult, and far too large to be accommodated in most homes, they are obviously not suitable choices for most people. However, Anacondas do appear in the trade, and have been successfully kept and bred. For those with the required space, training and finances, they are, I know, hard to resist. Today I’ll cover the key points to consider before making a decision on these fascinating, but dangerous, behemoths.

If you really are set on owning a large, usually aggressive aquatic snake, you might consider the Yellow Anaconda, Eunectes notaeus. It is not an animal to be taken lightly, but makes a more reasonable pet than the Green Anaconda. Actually, I suggest “cutting your teeth” on an adult Florida Green Watersnake, Nerodia floridana. Reaching nearly 6 feet in length, this often vile-tempered beast is a handful, and may change your mind about its larger cousins!

Natural History

I’ve posted several articles on Green Anaconda natural history and field research, and so will summarize here. Please see the articles linked below for greater detail.

Size

The Green Anaconda may exceed 400 pounds in weight, and is the world’s heaviest snake. It vies with the Reticulated Python for the title of longest serpent. There is one fairly reliable record of a 33-foot-long specimen and an unverified report (eastern Columbia, 1944) of 37.5 foot individual. In the course of tagging over 500 Anacondas, the largest I and co-workers encountered was just over 17 feet long and weighed 215 pounds.

Range and Habitat

Green Anacondas are found in Trinidad, Venezuela, Columbia, Brazil, northern Bolivia, northeastern Peru, Guyana and French Guiana. Highly aquatic, they inhabit rivers, swamps, flooded grasslands and the fringes of cattle ranches.

Diet and Human Predation

Green Anacondas have been documented as taking young tapir, capybara, sheep, dogs, pigs, tegus, other anacondas, frogs, herons, ducks, fishes and other animals. I have encountered Anacondas in the act of consuming a 60 pound White-tailed Deer, a 5-foot-long Spectacled Caiman and a large Side-necked Turtle.

A (happily unsuccessful!) attack on a co-worker of mine during a field study seemed to be a feeding response; other attacks were reported to me by several residents of Venezuela’s llanos region. The only reliably documented cases of human predation by snakes have involved Reticulated, African Rock and, possibly, Burmese Pythons. Please see the article below for more on huge snake meals.

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Hatchlings measure 18-36 inches and can be accommodated in a 55 gallon aquarium equipped with 6-8 cage clips. They will need increasingly larger quarters as they grow. Large commercial enclosures will work for a time, but after 2-3 years a homemade cage or re-designed room will be necessary. Security is a major concern, as all large constrictors are immensely powerful and expertly locate any weaknesses in their enclosures.

The huge volume of waste products produced by even moderately-sized individuals necessitates a floor drain in most cases.

Anacondas prefer water bowls to caves as hiding spots. Plastic plants floating on the water’s surface will provide them with security. A hide box should also be available (I’ve found wild individuals in riverside caves).

Substrate

Newspapers, butcher paper and washable terrarium liners work well for young snakes. Larger animals are best kept in enclosures that can be scrubbed and hosed-out; wooden floors are best protected by linoleum tiles.

Do not use wood chips, as they can lodge in the mouth during feeding and cause infection-prone cuts.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Anaconda enclosures should be maintained at 78-86 F, and provided with a basking site of 95 F. A temperature gradient is important to their health, and can only be effectively established in a large enclosure.

Bulbs located within cages must be protected by wire guards. Heat pads or pig blankets may be located beneath the cage floor (do not place these within the cage, due to burn risk). Red/black reptile night bulbs and ceramic heaters can be used to provide night-time heat.

Water temperature is important, as that is where your snake will spend most of its time. Water bowls for small snakes may be located beneath a basking light; large pools will require a heater protected by a ventilated PVC tube.

A UVB light source is not necessary.

Feeding

Hatchlings can take adult mice or rat pups, and soon graduate to adult rats. Rabbits are usually the least expensive option for moderately-sized to large Anacondas. Other options for adults include guinea pigs, ducks, chickens, fish and suckling pigs.

Captive Anacondas sometimes exhibit very distinct food preferences (often duck), and refuse all but their favored prey. One individual under my care would eat wild-caught but not lab-raised Norway Rats, and another refused all but Muskrats. A 10-foot-long individual can be expected to consume 100-150 pounds of food yearly.

A 60 pound deer consumed by a wild Anaconda is the largest meal I’ve witnessed. The largest reliably documented in the literature is a 100 pound Peccary consumed by a 26’9” specimen in French Guiana.

Anacondas will tackle huge food items, but digestive disorders may result; the desire to “test” your snake’s capacity should be resisted. I used 12-15 pound pigs and rabbits for the 16-18 foot-long individuals under my care.

A second experienced person should always be present when snakes over 6 feet in length are fed. Food should be offered (and uneaten food removed) with a long-handled snake tongs after the snake had been maneuvered into a safe area with a snake hook. Anacondas, no matter how long in captivity, will not distinguish between food and owner; anything moving within range will be bitten!

Vitamin/mineral supplements are not necessary.

Water bowls should be filled to a point where they will not overflow when the snake curls up within. While the skin diseases suffered by many snakes held in damp conditions seem not to commonly affect Anacondas, dry areas should be available.

Long-Term Planning

Please consider that a 24-inch-long Green Anaconda can reach an unmanageable size very quickly. Zoos rarely if ever accept unwanted animals, but if you find yourself with a snake that you can no longer keep, please write me for assistance.

Of course, unwanted pets should never be released…the feral Burmese Python situation in Florida is a sad example of what can happen. Many years ago an old-time animal collector told me of a litter of Anacondas that escaped from a roadside zoo near the Everglades…I trust that reports would have surfaced by now, but Anacondas are very secretive, so I’m never quite certain of what to expect…

Important Precautions

Many of the Anacondas I’ve cared for have remained quite aggressive even after decades in captivity. Long-term pet Burmese Pythons have killed adult owners and children; Green Anacondas have the same potential.

As regards the seemingly docile individuals that are sometimes reported, it should be borne in mind that snakes are not domesticated animals, and must never be handled carelessly; otherwise calm snakes may react to odors or vibrations that people cannot sense. Two well-experienced adults should always be on hand when specimens over 6 feet in length are fed, cleaned or moved.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook . Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

The Best Filters for Red-Eared Sliders and other Aquatic Turtles

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:25:07 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Long-lived, responsive and intelligent, Red-Eared Sliders and similar turtles are among the most popular of reptile pets. However, aquatic turtles feed in water and are quite messy about it, and produce a great deal of waste. Keeping their water clear and odor-free, and in a state that promotes good health, is a challenge faced by all turtle-keepers. Today I’ll review some filters that are especially designed for use with aquatic turtles and other reptiles and amphibians; you can view other available models here.

General Considerations

Your turtle’s natural history and feeding behavior will greatly influence the type of filter that should be used, so be sure to research these topics before making your selection. For example, Spotted Turtles will be stressed by fast currents, Soft-shelled Turtles will kick sand about and dislodge intake tubes, the carapaces of Pig-Nosed Turtles are prone to bacterial attack in highly-oxygenated waters, and so on. Please write in if you need help in selecting a filter.

You can greatly ease the burden on your filter by habituating your turtle to feeding in a separate container, outside of its home aquarium. Please see the article below for details.

Always leave a bit of old material in your filter when changing carbon or filter pads, so that beneficial aerobic bacteria will seed the new filter medium.

The considerations below apply to aquatic frogs, newts, lizards and other creatures as well; please write in for further information on the species in your collection.

Zoo Med Turtle Clean Canister Filter

This is my favorite choice in many situations, and is the most powerful filter designed specifically for turtles. Resembling a fish canister filter in general form, it has chambers for carbon, filter pads and aerobic bacteria colonies, and is simple to clean. It is placed next to (not below) the tank, operates in as little as 2 inches of water, and can be used to create a waterfall effect. The largest model can handle tanks of up to 60 gallons in capacity.

Supreme Ovation Submersible Power Jet Filter

The original model of this filter was the first submersible pump/filter combination available in theUSA, and it remains my favorite. The first that I purchased operated continuously, under great strain, for nearly 20 years!

Today’s models are extremely powerful, and are equipped with a movable outlet tube and a spray bar so that strong currents can be avoided if necessary (i.e. for hatchlings). The Supreme Ovation 1000 pushes 265 gallons per minute, yet is compact and easy to service.

I’m particularly fond of the powerful suction cups attached to all Ovation Filters. This tiny detail is extremely important but frequently overlooked…turtles often “insist” on detaching lesser filters, which can lead to injuries and motor burnout.

Hagen Turtle Cliff Filter

This unique product is actually a basking site, waterfall and powerful filter (to 96 gpm) rolled into one. Resembling a rock in appearance, the Cliff Filter is a real space saver and great for use with frogs and newts as well as turtles.

Tetra Whisper In-Tank Filter

The Tetra In-Tank Filter hangs from the side of the aquarium, but mounts inside the tank rather than outside as do older models. This makes it an ideal choice where tanks are backed up against walls or one-another.

I like the fact that the convenient filter cartridges are changed from the top, without the need to open or even move the filter box. It can operate in low water (2 inches) or a full tank, and so is suitable for use with a wide variety of turtles.

Fish Tank and Pond Filters

Hard core turtle enthusiasts will no doubt run into situations that are not addressed above. For example, adult Common and Alligator Snappers will require huge tanks or ponds equipped with pool filters, while planted aquariums housing groups of Bog Turtles or other small species might best be served by Fluidized Bed Filters.

Please see our line of 150+ Aquarium and Pond Filters for other options and be sure to write in if you need assistance.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Using Undergravel Filters in Reptile and Amphibian Aquariums and Terrariums

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 13:34:19 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Undergravel filters were considered to be indispensible pieces of equipment when I first began setting up marine aquariums decades ago. Encouraged by success in using them with creatures ranging from seahorses to octopuses, I began to experiment with herp enclosures. I eventually came to rely heavily upon undergravel filters in my own collection, and for large zoo exhibits. Though now out of favor, this highly effective tool deserves a second (or first!) look by herp-keepers.

Getting Started

I’ll refer you to a great article on That Fish Blog, Using Undergravel Filters to Their Full Potential (please see below), for details concerning set up and maintenance. The points raised there are essential to understand if you are to successfully use an undergravel filter. I’ll focus here on my experiences and some fine points I’ve picked up along the way.

Biological Filtration

When considering undergravel filters, it’s important to bear in mind that biological filtration – the breakdown of ammonia to nitrites and nitrates – is the most important function of a filter (please see article below). Despite their seeming simplicity, undergravel filters excel at this – essentially turning your aquarium’s substrate into a giant biological filter. In fact, I’ll echo the sentiments of their early proponents (i.e. Robert Straughan in the classic Salt Water Aquariums in the Home) by saying that it is almost impossible to foul the water in an aquarium serviced by a properly-maintained undergravel filter.

Mechanical filtration is provided as well, and carbon cartridges can be attached to add a degree of chemical filtration. Best of all, there are no cartridges or filtering mediums to clean or replace!

Undergravel Filters at Work

In the course of researching this article, I spoke with friends working at public aquariums and confirmed that, as in years past, some truly huge exhibits are still equipped solely with undergravel filters. At the Bronx Zoo, I used undergravel filters alone on large exhibits housing Tentacled Snakes, Northern Water Snakes and aquatic turtles – all of which are very hard on water quality and clarity.

In my own collection, I’ve relied on undergravel filters since childhood, again using them with messy creatures such as Diamondback Watersnakes (please see photo), Musk Turtles and Bullhead Catfishes. One such well-planted tank of mine has been continuously in operation for over 20 years without a single problem, despite the deaths of large inhabitants that could have sent ammonia levels soaring.

Situations Calling for Undergravel Filters

Undergravel filters may be preferable to other filters in the following situations:

Complex set-ups with live plants that cannot easily be broken down and cleaned.

Tanks housing filter-feeding tadpoles or salamander larvae that consume brine shrimp and other tiny food items that might otherwise be filtered out of the water.

Enclosures stocked with weakly swimming animals that cannot abide strong currents (water flow is directed upward), such as Dwarf Clawed Frogs and Eastern Newts.

Aquariums with low water levels or land and water areas. Outflow tubes and filter plates can be cut to any size, so that even small, naturalistic soaking areas or “ponds” can be filtered.

Tips and Optional Equipment

When doing periodic water changes (please see this article), press the siphon’s head directly against the filter plate to remove detritus trapped below. You can also clean below the plate by removing the filter’s outflow tubes and inserting a siphon into the resulting hole.

Use care in selecting gravel or sand, lest your pets ingest it and suffer an impaction; please write in for details.

Nutrafin Cycle contains live aerobic bacteria and is an excellent means of seeding new filters or boosting the function of established systems. Please see the article below for more on this topic. Gravel from an aquarium with an established filter in place is also useful for these purposes.

Power heads can be used in place of air pumps to increase water flow through the gravel bed. You can also set up a reverse-flow system, which will lessen the amount of detritus that becomes trapped in the substrate; please write in for details.

Submersible filters designed for use with reptiles offer a simple means of adding to your undergravel filter’s effectiveness.

A battery-operated air pump should be kept on hand for use during power outages. The aerobic bacteria upon which the filter depends will die if deprived of an oxygen source.

Fluidized bed filters, mounted outside the aquarium, rely upon the same principles as undergravel filters and are a highly effective option.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio