Setting up the Terrarium

Day Geckos are highly arboreal and must have climbing opportunities.  “High-style” aquariums make fine homes.  A pair or trio of Spotted, Yellow-Throated or other small species can be kept in a 15-20 gallon aquarium.  A 30-55 gallon tank will accommodate the same number of Standing’s, Madagascar or Giant Day Geckos.  Always opt for the largest terrarium possible.

Photo uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Manuel Werner, Nürtingen, Germany

Day Geckos need spacious enclosures that mimic their natural habitat.  Live plants such as Pothos and Philodendron will provide visual barriers between tank-mates and a sense of security.  Rolled cork bark and hollow bamboo sections make ideal hideaways and perching sites, and should be arranged both horizontally and vertically.

Be sure to establish plenty of basking sites near heat and UVB bulbs, as dominant individuals may exclude others from these important areas.

The terrarium’s screen lid must be tightly secured with clamps.

Substrate

A mix of potting soil, cypress mulch and sphagnum moss is ideal.

Light

Day Geckos will not thrive without a source of UVB light (but some notable exceptions are known; please see article below).  Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

Your geckos should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb; the Zoo Med 10.0  Bulb, which I have used at the Bronx and Staten Island Zoos, has been shown to out-perform other florescent models.  Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well.  Be sure to provide shaded areas.

A daytime period of 12-14 hours should be established.

Heat

Ambient temperatures of 82-88 F, with a basking spot of 90-95 F, will suit most (please post below for information on individual species).

Incandescent spotlights may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Provide your pets with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established.  Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas.  In small or poorly ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

Humidity

Most Day Geckos are rainforest dwellers and do best in humid surroundings.  Their terrarium should be misted at least twice daily. If your home is especially dry, consider using a small reptile fogger to raise the humidity levels in the terrarium (please see photo).

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together. Females are territorial, and must be watched carefully. Pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) and youngsters may co-exist in large enclosures, but be sure to check dominant individuals do not prevent others from feeding and basking.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Keeping Day Geckos without a UVB Source

Gecko Overview

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

The post Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The Amazing Specialists

While the tadpoles of many commonly bred frogs (i.e. White’s Treefrog, Litoria caerulea) are omnivorous and take a variety of foods, others are specialists and will not survive unless their exacting requirements are met.  The tadpoles of African Clawed Frogs, Xenopus laevis and Malayan Leaf Frogs, Megophrys nasuta, for example, are filter feeders, while those of the African Bullfrog, Pyxicephalus adspersus, are as carnivorous as their pugnacious parents.  Poison Frog tadpoles of several species feed upon unfertilized eggs deposited by their mother, Goliath Frog, Conraua goliath, tadpoles consume a single species of algae, Fringe-Limbed Treefrog (Ecnomiohyla rabborum) tadpoles eat their father’s skin,  Brown Leaping Frog (Indirana semipalmata) tadpoles gnaw on wood (high up in trees!) …the list is fascinating.  Please post below if you would like information on these or other species.

General Considerations

In general, omnivorous tadpoles should be provided with as many of the following foods as is practical.  As we do not know much about the natural diets of filter-feeding tadpoles, they too should be given a wide variety of finely-ground commercial foods.  Horned Frog (Ceratophrys spp.) and other carnivorous tadpoles do best when high protein foods such as freeze-dried bloodworms, shrimp and pre-killed minnows are added to a Reptomin-based diet. 

I’ve found that nearly all tadpoles relish kale, and experience has shown it to be a very beneficial addition to their diet.  I have, as an experiment, successfully raised American Bullfrog, Lithobates catesbeianus, and Green-and-Gold Bellfrog, Litoria aurea, tadpoles on a diet comprised solely of kale and tropical fish flakes.  Soak kale in hot water for 10 minutes or so before using, so as to improve its digestibility. 

Reptomin Floating Food Sticks (Tetrafauna)

If I had to choose a single food that fits the needs of most tadpoles, I’d go with Reptomin Floating Food Sticks, which I have relied upon in zoos and my own collection for decades.  I’ve had excellent results using this product as 50-75% of the diets of a variety of tadpoles, including American and African Bullfrogs, Green Frogs, European Edible Frogs, American Toads, Wallace’s Flying Frogs, Australian Bell Frogs and Ornate Horned Frogs.

Reptomin contains a variety of animal and plant ingredients, including shrimp, algae and fish meal, wheat, corn and potato.  The floating sticks soften quickly, but not so much as to become unavailable to larger tadpoles, sink after becoming water-logged, and can also be ground up and offered to filter feeders.  Reptomin is also an excellent food for many adult aquatic frogs, newts, turtles, and invertebrates…I even use it to gut load feeder crickets and roaches.  It has crossed over from the pet trade and is now a staple in zoos worldwide.  Please see this article for further information on this valuable food item.

Canned and Sun-Dried Freshwater Shrimp (ZooMed)

Shrimp are very numerous in many freshwater environments, and likely play a role in tadpole diets.  While marine shrimps and krill have long been available as tropical fish food, freshwater species are difficult to find.  I was, therefore, pleased to learn that Zoo Med is now using a fresh water shrimp, Macrobrachium nipponense, in its Canned Shrimp and Sun Dried Red Shrimp products.

Excellent as a high-protein addition to the diets of most tadpoles and very important for carnivorous species, both products are easy to use.  Canned Shrimp, being quite “meaty”, is ideal for the voracious tadpoles of African Bullfrogs, Horned Frogs and similar species.  Sun Dried Shrimp can be crushed to meet the needs of smaller tadpoles and filter feeders.  You can read more about these products here.

Tropical Flakes Fish Food (TetraMin)

As with ReptoMin, tropical fish flakes are highly nutritious and an ideal food for a wide variety of tadpoles.  I’ve relied most heavily upon TetraMin’s original Tropical Flakes, and cannot recall any species that has refused it.  Developed in 1950, this product can be ground into a powder fine enough even for the tiny filter feeding tadpoles of the Dwarf African Clawed Frog, Hymenochirus curpites, but is also taken by American Bullfrogs and other large species.  I also provide it to feeder insects, snails, millipedes, and shrimp (and fish!). 

Other flake foods developed for fishes with specific dietary needs (i.e. algae feeders, Cichlids) may also be used to add variety to tadpole diets.

Spirulina Discs (Wardley)

Wardley Spirulina Discs contain blue algae meal, spinach powder and other plant-based ingredients important to the health of nearly all tadpoles.  As carnivorous species likely consume some plant material in the wild, I add Algae Discs to both their diets and those of omnivorous/herbivorous tadpoles.  Many other foods formulated for plant-eating fishes are also useful tadpole foods.

Earthworm Fish Food Flakes (Zoo Med)

I’ve long championed earthworms as a herp food, and so was interested in trying out Zoo Med’s new Earthworm Flakes.  The flakes also contain salmon, shrimp meal and plankton, and are readily consumed by most tadpoles.  Further thoughts on this exciting new product can be found here.

Repto Treat Delica Bloodworms (TetraFauna)

Bloodworms, the larvae of midges (or “gnats”, Family Chironomidae), are one of the few small insects available to tadpole keepers. 

TetraFauna’s Repto Treat supplies bloodworms encased within a vitamin-enriched gel.  

Bloodworms and other aquatic insects form the basis of the food chain in many tadpole habitats, and are almost certainly an important food item.  Also, tadpoles consuming Repto Treat will be eating the entire organism, an important consideration if research on adult amphibians is any guide.  You can read more about the use of bloodworms as an amphibian food here.

There are many other tadpole food options…please post your ideas and experiences below, and I’ll be sure to share them with my readers and colleagues.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Breeding the Malayan Leaf Frog

Rearing African Clawed Frog Tadpoles

Arboreal, Wood-Eating Tadpoles

Tadpole image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Rainforest Harley

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Best Tadpole Foods (Based on my Experiences) – Seeking Additional Suggestions

The post Best Tadpole Foods (Based on my Experiences) – Seeking Additional Suggestions appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Taxonomy, Range, and Habitat

Nine species of Collared Lizard have been described.  In the pet trade, the name “Collared Lizard” is most frequently applied to Crotaphytus collaris.   Five subspecies of Crotaphytus collaris range from the central and southwestern USA to central Mexico.  The Eastern Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus c. collaris, is the subspecies most commonly kept in captivity.  Its range extends from southern Missouri through northern Arkansas and southwest to central Texas.  Different Collared Lizard species hybridize in captivity and the wild.

The related Leopard Lizards (3 species, please see photo) have been reassigned to the genus Gambelia. 

Collared Lizards are usually found in rocky deserts, overgrown thorn-scrub and other arid habitats.

Behavior

Wild-caught lizards are difficult to acclimate, but captive-born individuals usually take handing in stride.  If threatened, however, they will not hesitate to bite.  Collared Lizards can rise up on their hind legs when fleeing from danger, evoking the image of a tiny, colorful T-Rex.   They are extremely fast, and may quickly make use of escape opportunities presented when their enclosures are being serviced.

Collared Lizards are very active…foraging, territorial displays, moving from hot to cooler areas, and digging occupies much of their time.  Possibly in response to an “internal clock”, they sometimes refuse food during the winter, even if kept warm (please write in for further information).

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

The Collared Lizard’s active lifestyle demands a great deal of space.  Youngsters can be reared in 20 gallon aquariums, while a single adult is best kept in a 30 gallon tank (a properly designed 20 gallon can work, but more space is preferable).  A 55 gallon terrarium will accommodate a pair or trio.

Due to the high basking temperatures required, large enclosures are necessary if a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) is to be established.  Thermal gradients allow lizards to regulate their body temperature by moving from hot to cooler areas.  This behavior, critical to their health, is not possible in small cages.

Collared Lizards are ground-dwelling animals that use rocks as basking sites and perches from which to watch for danger.  Rocks should always be placed on the terrarium’s floor so that lizards cannot tunnel beneath them and be crushed in the process.  Stacked rocks should be secured to the glass or one another with silicone if tipping is a concern. 

In addition to adding greatly to your terrarium’s aesthetic value, live plants will offer a sense of security and provide sight barriers that help to limit aggression.  Useful types include Climbing and Lace Aloes, Oxtongue and Snake Plants. 

As air flow is especially important for animals native to arid habitats, your terrarium should be equipped with a screen top.

Substrate

A sand/small rock mix is the most natural substrate for Collard Lizards.  Although impactions due to swallowed sand are rare, it is best to provide food in large bowls so that sand ingestion is limited.  Rocks small enough to be swallowed should be avoided.  Hatchlings are clumsy hunters, and tend to swallow a good deal of sand.  Newspapers, paper towels or washable cage liners  should be used until their skills improve.

Light, Heat and Humidity

Collared Lizards will not thrive if denied daily exposure to high levels of UVB light.  Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly. If you use a florescent bulb, choose one designed for desert-dwelling lizards (i.e. the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb) and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it. 

Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and also emit beneficial UVA radiation.  Be sure to provide shaded areas as well. 

Collared Lizards require a basking site temperature of 95-100 F, but must be able to move into cooler areas (78-85 F) as well.  Temperatures can dip into the high 70’s at night.  Incandescent bulbs may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Humidity should be kept low, and the substrate must be dry at all times. 

Companions

Females and youngsters usually co-exist, but groups must be watched as dominant individuals may prevent others from feeding and basking.  Males will fight viciously and cannot be kept together. 

Feeding

These voracious predators are largely insectivorous, but also take small lizards and snakes on occasion in the wild.  Their calcium requirements appear to be quite high.  Pink mice are a good calcium source, but should not be offered more than once each 7-10 days.  Rodents with fur should be avoided.  

Roaches, waxworms, crickets, butterworms, silkworms, calci-worms, super mealworms, hornworms, sow bugs and other commercially-available invertebrates should form the bulk of the diet.  Crickets and mealworms alone are not sufficient.  Insects should themselves be provided with a nutritious diet for 1-3 days before being offered to your pets.

In order to increase dietary variety, offer your lizards canned grasshoppers, snails and silkworms via tongs.  Wild-caught insects, as long as you can recognize dangerous species and avoid pesticide-contaminated areas, should also be offered; moths, beetles, grasshoppers and many others will be readily accepted.  Please see this article for additional information on feeding insectivorous lizards.

Wild Collared Lizards consume some vegetation, but captives often reject non-living foods.  Adding live insects to a bowl of kale, dandelion and other produce may encourage acceptance.

Food (excepting pinkies) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal, Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product.  Vitamin/mineral supplements (i.e. ReptiVite with D3) should be used 2-3 times weekly. 

Adults can be offered food 5-7 times weekly, while juveniles should be fed on a daily basis. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.  

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Natural History in Arizona (excellent photos)

Stomach Contents Study (Texas)

Fire Management as a Conservation Tool

Collared Lizard and long nosed leopard lizard image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Daniel Schwen
Collared Lizard image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Dakota L

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Collared Lizard Captive Care and Natural History

The post Collared Lizard Captive Care and Natural History appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The following information can be applied to the care of Savannah, Black Tree, Nile, Merten’s and most other monitors.  However, details vary; please post below for information on individual species, and be sure to add your own thoughts and observations on monitor lizard care.

Natural History

Seventy-three monitor species (Family Varanidae) range across Asia, Africa and Australia. Nile Monitors (Varanus niloticus), introduced to south Florida, are a major environmental concern there.  Lace Monitors (V. varius) and other large speciesare usually the dominant predators in their habitats.  While most dwell in warm regions, Desert Monitor (V. griseus) populations in Kazakhstan are adapted to Vermont-type winters. 

The 8 inch-long Short-Tailed Monitor (V. brevicauda), is the smallest member of the group.  The Komodo Dragon (V. komodoensis), the world’s largest lizard, occasionally tops 10 feet in length. 

Monitors take prey ranging in size from termites to deer.  The recently-discovered Sierra Madre Forest Monitor (V. bitatawa) and the Philippine Monitor (V. olivaceus) are unique in consuming fruit, while the Komodo Dragon has attacked and killed people.

In 2005, it was discovered that several species produce venom that affects their prey’s blood pressure and clotting ability. 

Five new species, one topping 6 feet in length, have been described in the past several years (please see articles below).

Behavior

Monitors are ever-alert, and easily startled by noises and sudden movements. They vary greatly in personality – some become quite docile, while others remain wary of people. All are very responsive, and quickly learn to anticipate regular feeding times. 

Crocodile and Water Monitors (V. salvadorii and V. salvator), and other large species, can be dangerous and are not suitable for most private collections.  Adult Water Monitors are, pound-for-pound, one of the strongest animals I’ve ever restrained (I was the Bronx Zoo’s head mammal keeper for a time, and so thought I could handle most anything!). All monitors can inflict severe bites and scratches. The mouth and tail (which is whipped about in self-defense), should never be allowed near one’s face.  Operating policies in most zoos require that 2 experienced keepers be present when large monitor exhibits are entered.

New monitor facts frequently come to light.  Recently, a Black Tree Monitor was observed using its front foot to extract an insect from a crevice; this behavior has not been documented in any other lizard. 

Housing

The Enclosure

Hatchlings and small species, such as the 14-inch-long Storr’s Monitor (V. storri), may be housed in 30-55 gallon aquariums. 

Merten’s Monitors (V. mertensi) and others in the 3-4 foot range are best kept in homemade cages measuring at least 4x4x4 feet.  Height is an important consideration for arboreal species such as Black Tree Monitor (V. beccarii).  Savannah Monitors (V. exanthematicus) and others that approach 5 feet in length need correspondingly larger quarters; modified cattle troughs are a useful option. 

The 6-7 foot-long Nile, Lace, Crocodile and Water Monitors require room-sized enclosures with drainable pools. 

Predator-proof outdoor cages are the ultimate in “luxury accommodations” (some folks use modified bird aviaries).  If a safe, escape-proof room is available, out-of-cage exercise time can make a real difference in your lizard’s quality of life. 

Furnishings

Stout branches, wooden shelves and secure hide boxes should be arranged according to each species’ individual needs (please post questions below).  A water bowl large enough for bathing is essential; the aquatic Merten’s Monitor should be provided with a large swimming area. 

Substrate

Sand is suitable for Desert Monitors and others native to arid habitats, while cypress mulch works well for forest dwellers such as Green Tree Monitors (V. prasinus).  I’ve found Crocodile Monitors prone to foot abrasions when kept on concrete, and have since used rubber mats or rubber-coated floors for all large species.

Although impactions due to swallowed substrate are rare, food should be provided in large bowls or via tongs, so that ingestion is limited. 

Light

Monitors need daily exposure to UVB light.  Use a high-output bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0, and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it.  Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well. 

Heat

Temperature should be maintained at a range of 79-85 F for most species.  Incandescent bulbs should be used to create a basking site of 90-95 F.  Ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” may be employed to provide heat after dark.  Under-tank heaters may be used to create a warm basking surface. 

Provide your monitor with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established.  Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. 

Humidity

Storr’s and Savanna Monitors, and other desert/grassland adapted species, develop health problems in damp enclosures, while rainforest dwellers such as Blue Tree Monitors (V. macraei) need access to humid and dry areas. 

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together, and females sometimes battle for dominance.  Juveniles may get along, but they must be watched carefully. 

Feeding

Strict attention to diet is essential if you are to succeed with monitors. Nutritional deficiencies can develop quickly, and are difficult to treat.  High calcium intake and exposure to UVB light is especially important for young animals. 

Small, largely insectivorous species (i.e. Blue and Green Tree Monitors) need a highly-varied diet comprised of roaches, crickets, butterworms, hornworms, super mealworms, wild-caught insects and other invertebrates; pink mice can be offered 1-2 times weekly. Canned snails and grasshoppers, and hard-boiled eggs, can be used to provide variety.

Nile Monitors and similar species fare well on mice and rats alone; whole freshwater fishes are an excellent rodent-alternative for Water and Merten’s Monitors.

Food (other than vertebrates) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal or Zoo Med ReptiCalcium.  Vitamin/mineral supplements such as Reptivite should be used 2-3 times weekly.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Range Information for all Species

Fruit-Eating Monitor, Red-Headed Monitor and Water Monitor Relatives discovered.

Monitor Lizards (notes on individual species)

Nile Monitor image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by D. Gordon E. Robertson
Water Monitor image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Deror Avi

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Monitor Lizard Care, Natural History and Behavior – An Overview

The post Monitor Lizard Care, Natural History and Behavior – An Overview appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Natural History

The Purple-Pincher or Caribbean Hermit Crab (Coenobita clypeatus) is the most common pet trade species.  It ranges throughout the Caribbean, reaching as far north as Florida and Bermuda. 

Some populations live at altitudes of over 3,000 feet, but females return to the sea, usually in one massive migration, to spawn. The larvae, or zoea, float about with plankton for 2 months, after which they take up life on land.

Land Hermit Crabs carry about the discarded shells of other creatures as shelters, and must find larger shells as they grow.  Recently it was discovered that they will line up in size order behind an empty shell – as the first crab (the largest) moves into its new home, others in line will “trade up” for the shell of the crab immediately in front of them!  Please see the article below for details.

Ecuadorian Hermit Crabs (Coenobita compressus) and several Asian species also appear in the pet trade.  The Coconut Crab (Birgus latro) is sometimes kept within its native range.

Behavior

Land Hermit Crabs are nocturnal, but pets often emerge to feed by day. When established in a properly-designed terrarium, they will be quite active and exhibit many interesting behaviors.

Handling is stressful to Hermit Crabs, including long-term pets.  They can be grasped by the back of the shell, but often can reach this area with their claw. Large individuals can administer a painful pinch, and I’d bet that the Coconut Crab can break fingers!

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

A 10 gallon aquarium will accommodate 4-5 small crabs.  Large, naturalistic terrariums will allow the crabs to exhibit a wider range of behaviors than will small, bare enclosures. 

Driftwood, cholla wood, reptile caves, up-ended clay flower pots and similar furnishings will add greatly to your crabs’ quality of life.  Empty shells should always be available.

A molting tank should be set up if you keep more than one crab.  Land Hermit Crabs are soft and defenseless after molting, and will be eaten by their former friends.  Check daily for signs of an impending molt – digging, remaining below ground and listlessness are typical.  Molting crabs should be isolated (please write in for information). 

Substrate

A mix of calcium sand and coconut husk makes an ideal substrate.  The substrate should be at least 6 inches deep and mixed with enough water so that is just sticks together when squeezed. 

Light

Red/black reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your crabs after dark.  A 12-hour day/12 -hour night cycle is ideal.

Heat

A temperature range of 75-82 F should be maintained.  These tropical creatures will not survive long term exposure to temperatures below 72 F.

Incandescent bulbs or red/black reptile night bulbs can be used to heat the terrarium.  Ceramic reptile heaters are useful at night.  Reptile heat pads can be used to warm the substrate, but these do little to heat the air.  All of the above will dry out the substrate, so it is important to monitor the humidity.

Humidity

Land Hermit Crabs possess unique gills that enable them to breathe air.  A humidity level of 70-80% is vital to survival, as the gills must be kept moist in order to function.  A simple humidity meter should be used.  Humidity can be increased by misting, adding water to the substrate and partially covering the terrarium’s lid with plastic. 

Companions

Land Hermit Crabs are social animals, but dominant individuals may prevent others from feeding properly.  Crabs that are molting must be isolated or they will be attacked (please see above).  A variety of empty shells must be available, or fighting and “evictions” will ensue.

Feeding

Wild Hermit Crabs eat just about everything – animal, vegetable and mineral – that they encounter.  Captives will not thrive without a varied, high-calcium diet.

Commercial Hermit Crab pellets may be used as a portion of the diet.  The following foods should be included regularly: fresh shrimp and fish, fruits and vegetables (carrot may help to maintain coloration), hard-boiled egg, nuts, seeds, dry seaweed (sold as Nori), oatmeal, fish flakes, canned crickets, and freeze-dried fish foods (krill, plankton, brine shrimp, etc.).  They also relish decaying wood and leaf litter; these should be collected from pesticide-free areas. 

Cuttlebone bits and reptile calcium powder should be mixed into your crabs’ food.

Often overlooked is their need for a bowl of marine water; marine aquarium salt mixes, not table salt, should be used.  Soaking in this water will provide the crabs with essential minerals not present in their food.  Fresh de-chlorinated water should also be available.  Bowls should be filled to half the height of the smallest crab and be easily-exited, as Land Hermit Crabs drown easily.

A wide variety of specialty cages, supplies and foods are now available.  Please post any questions or comments you may have regarding their use.

The Coconut or Robber Crab (Birgus latro)

With a 16 inch body supported by legs spanning 3 feet, this impressive beast (described as “monstrous” by Charles Darwin!) is the world’s largest land-dwelling arthropod. I first saw them at the Cincinnati Zoo Insectarium in the early 1980’s, and was instantly hooked.  After a prolonged search, I obtained 2 adults for an exhibit at the Bronx Zoo. Unfortunately, they did not fare very well, and this seems to be a common experience (wild individuals may attain age 40+).  Losses are especially high during the month-long molt, which is spent underground.

The Coconut Crab ranges throughout the Indian and Western Pacific Oceans. A co-worker of mine found them raiding his garbage cans on Guam; his experiences with refuse-feeding coatis and coyotes elsewhere in no way prepared him for that! 

Coconuts may be their best-known food, but form only a small portion of the diet. Generally, the crabs pinch nuts from coconut palms, and then feast on the broken remains below.  A crab may also pull back the husk from an unbroken coconut and then pierce the soft “eye” with one of its pointed legs. The rest of the diet is as varied as that of their smaller relatives.

Coconut Crabs are declining in portions of their range. Threatened by food trade collection and predation by introduced rats, ants, pigs and monkeys, they have been extirpated from Australia and Madagascar. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.  

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Hermit Crab “Shell Trading” Behavior

Coconut Crab Video

Natural History of Land Hermit Crabs on Bermuda

Coconut Crab image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Anne Sheppard

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Land Hermit Crabs and Coconut Crabs (the world’s largest) as Pets

The post Land Hermit Crabs and Coconut Crabs (the world’s largest) as Pets appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Note: Box Turtle populations have declined drastically. In addition to habitat loss and road-kill, many were exported to foreign pet markets when European tortoises were protected by law.  Please purchase only captive-bred animals.

Natural History

Four Box Turtle species – the Eastern, Spotted, Ornate and Coahuilan – range from southern Canada through most of the USA and into Mexico.  Ten uniquely-colored subspecies, including the Florida, Gulf Coast and Yucatan Box Turtles, are also recognized. 

Box Turtles frequent woodlands, marshes, fields, agricultural land, and many other habitats.  Some, such as the Eastern Box Turtle (T. carolina), are largely terrestrial, while Three-Toed Box Turtles (T. carolina triunguis) and others split their time between land and shallow water.  The Coahuilan Box Turtle (T. coahuila), the group’s only truly aquatic member, is found only in Mexico’s Cuatro Cienegas Basin.  Several of my colleagues at the Bronx Zoo studied this species in the wild, and I had the good fortune to work with a breeding group for many years; please look for my future article on this most unique turtle.

Although certain other turtles posses shell hinges that allow the plastron (lower shell) to be drawn up (“like a box”), in no group is this ability so well developed as the American Box Turtles (please see photo).

Behavior

When properly accommodated, Box Turtles take very well to captivity and quickly learn to “beg’ for food. They seem to exhibit a degree of curiosity and problem-solving abilities not evident in others. That being said, there are exceptions…

The World’s most Aggressive Box Turtle

Years ago a co-worker of mine found an adult Eastern Box Turtle abandoned at the back door of the Bronx Zoo’s Reptile House as he left for the day.  Needing to leave right away, he secured the turtle in a storage locker.  Next day, the typical hectic life of a zookeeper kicked in, and the turtle was forgotten for several days. 

My co-worker then liberated the turtle and placed it on a table for examination.  When he lowered his head to table level to get a better look, it ran over and clamped down on his nose, leaving a long-lasting scar.  Our vets checked the animal and found him none-the-worse (physically!) for his experience.  But thereafter, he attacked whoever came near, even going so far as to follow people, clamber onto their shoes, and bite down on pants or legs!  Eventually he found a home at a small zoo where he proved more amenable to female turtle company and sired quite a few offspring! 

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Box Turtles are quite active and need spacious enclosures.  Glass aquariums are unsuitable, except, perhaps, for hatchlings. 

Adults do best in enclosures that have been constructed with their needs in mind; outdoor maintenance is ideal when weather permits.  The Table Top Cage described on the Tortoise Trust website is very useful.   Plastic-bottomed rabbit cages and cattle troughs can also be modified as turtle homes. 

Shelters are important to the well-being of pet turtles.  Suitable hiding spots include deep substrates and “turtle huts”

Box Turtles need a water bowl large enough for soaking.  

Substrate

The ideal substrate is a mix of slightly-moist cypress or other wood chips and sphagnum moss.  I like to include fallen leaves as well. The substrate should be of a depth that allows the turtle to bury itself, as this is their typical means of hiding in the wild.
Light
Box Turtles need daily exposure to UVB light.  Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that UVB rays do not penetrate glass or plastic, and that fatal overheating can occur quickly.

Your turtle should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0.   Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well.  Be sure to provide shaded areas as well 
Heat
Temperatures should range from 70-80 F, with a basking site of 85-88 F.  Incandescent bulbs may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Provide your turtle with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established.  Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow turtles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cool areas.  In glass aquariums and other small or poorly-ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature. 
Humidity
Box Turtles, even those native dry habitats, require access to humid substrates.  Low humidity has been linked to eye and ear infections and kidney disease.  The substrate should be misted at least twice daily; a dry basking area must also be available. 

Companions

Females and youngsters often co-exist, but must be watched as dominant individuals may prevent others from feeding.  Males fight viciously, and usually harass females with near-constant mating attempts.

Feeding

Note: Certain species have unique dietary preferences; Coahuilan Box Turtles, for example, are more carnivorous than most.  Please post questions concerning those you keep.

Animal Foods

Young Box Turtles are largely carnivorous.  As they mature, increasing amounts of plant material is added to the diet.  Youngsters should be fed a diet comprised largely of whole animals. Earthworms, snails and slugs, which can be collected from pesticide-free areas, are important food items.  Tossing a handful of leaf litter into the terrarium will elicit hunting behaviors and keep your lets well-occupied. Food market and canned snails are excellent alternatives.  

Other nutritious foods include pre-killed pink mice, super mealworms, roaches, sow bugs, waxworms, grasshoppers, grubs, crickets and canned invertebrates marketed for pet reptiles. 

Low fat dog food, canned box turtle diets or moistened Reptomin Food Sticks should be mixed into most meals. Try some of the foods mentioned below as well.

Plant Foods

Approximately 50% of the diet for adults should be as described above. The balance should be comprised of salads containing chopped various berries, kale, dandelion, yams, apples, pears, squash, mushrooms, carrots and other produce.

Supplements

The calcium requirements of Box Turtles are quite high.  All food should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal, Zoo Med ReptiCalcium or a similar product; a cuttlebone may also be left in the cage.  Vitamin/mineral supplements (i.e. Reptivite with D3) should be used 2-3 times weekly. 

Feeding Tips

Adults can be fed 5-7 times weekly, juveniles daily. Box Turtles often become “spoiled”, and consume 1-2 food items to the exclusion of others. Strawberry jelly can be used to entice your turtles to accept a wider variety of foods.  Please see this article for further information and tips.

What’s Next, and What Can I Do?

Box Turtles can be quite hardy pets, but only if their exacting requirements are met. Please post any questions you may have below and I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

If you are concerned about turtle conservation, please consider joining a turtle interest group. The NY Turtle and Tortoise Society is my favorite.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible. 

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Eastern Box Turtle Natural History

Feeding American Box Turtles

Box Turtle Conservation at Davidson College

Information on all Box Turtle Species

Coahuilan Box Turtle image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Postdlf

Post from: That Reptile Blog


American Box Turtles as Pets – Care and Natural History

The post American Box Turtles as Pets – Care and Natural History appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Description

The 7 Flying Geckos in the genus Ptychozoon are among the most unique of the world’s 900+ gecko species.  Both the Malayan and Kuhl’s reach 6-8 inches in length and are distinguished by skin folds (along the head, flanks and toes) that enable them to glide through the air. A heavily-serrated tail assists in breaking up their outline. In overall appearance, I can best describe them as “amazingly bark-like”. 

Their color varies through a wide range of tans, grays and browns, and the skin is marked with an array of blotches and stripes.  Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos are difficult to differentiate by eye; the Kuhl’s tongue is often tipped in black, but I cannot say whether this always holds true.

Range and Habitat

The Malayan Flying Gecko inhabits Myanmar, Thailand, India, Malaysia and neighboring islands. The range of Kuhl’s Flying Gecko extends from southern Thailand through Java, Sumatra, Malaysia, Borneo and Sulawesi, and overlaps that of its cousin extensively.  Whether or not they hybridize, or utilize different niches within the same range, has not been researched. Other geckos are, however, known to partition habitats in species-rich areas; this article describes an interesting study carried out on Borneo.

Flying Geckos favor rainforests and other humid, densely-foliated habitats. However, they have colonized farms and human habitations, and it is from such areas that most are collected.

Captive Care

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos may be kept and bred under similar conditions. As most in the trade are wild-caught, stress, mites and internal parasites are a major concern. As concerns medication, I’ve found them to be quite delicate; be sure that you use a well-experienced veterinarian to examine all new arrivals.

The Terrarium

Although wild-caught females may initially produce eggs, sustained captive breeding is only possible if the appropriate environment and diet is provided.  A spacious terrarium – a 20-30 gallon tank for a trio – is essential.  “Tall” style aquariums are ideal.  Flying Geckos spend most of their time on tree trunks, where their camouflage may be used to great advantage, and will be stressed if forced to use other resting sites.  Corkbark or native tree bark must be available, and the cage should be densely-planted (live plants are best).  Flying Geckos will not thrive in bare enclosures.

Temperature, Humidity and Light

Humidity should be maintained at 75-80% for most of the year (see “Breeding”), with a temperature gradient of 75-85 F.  Nighttime temperatures can dip to 70 F. A mix of sphagnum moss and a forest bedding, serves well as a substrate.

Although Flying Geckos are nocturnal, wild individuals often spend their days in open situations, on tree trunks, and may therefore be exposed to UVB.  Low doses of UVB, as provided by a ZooMed 2.0 bulb, are likely beneficial.  Overly-bright environments should be avoided, so choose plants that do well in low light (pothos, snake and cast iron plants).  Incandescent heat bulbs  can be used to maintain temperatures; red/black night bulbs (which will assist in nighttime observations) or ceramic heater-emitters can be used after dark.  

Diet

Flying Geckos specialize in hunting flying and arboreal insects, and will not fare well on crickets alone.  Housefly cultures, silkworms, roaches, moths and other insects are essential to their well-being.  The comments in this article on Red-Eyed Treefrog Diets are largely applicable; please write in if you have any questions on this critical aspect of husbandry.

Breeding

Mature males may be distinguished from females by their pre-anal pores and the two scaly skin-folds that outline the cloaca. 

Males fight savagely, and cannot be housed together.  A single male may be kept with multiple females.  Gecko skin is delicate, and bite injuries may occur during courtship and copulation; check also for dominance battles among females.

Stimulating Reproduction

In the wild, breeding likely extends through much or all of the rainy season (March to May through October, depending upon locale).  Increasing the frequency and duration of daily misting in the spring will encourage captives to come into breeding condition.  Novel food items and increased dietary variety should also be introduced at this time.  Some have reported that removing and re-introducing a male will stimulate interest.

Lowering temperature and humidity slightly during the fall and winter may also be useful, but is not critical (please write in for details). 

The Eggs

Gravid female swell noticeably, and their 2 eggs will be visible through the skin in time.  A well-fed female may produce 3, or possibly more, clutches of 2 eggs each.  I’ve recorded inter-clutch intervals of 2-3 weeks, but this time period is likely affected by many factors.

Eggs are affixed to bark, glass or stout plant leaves.  Be sure to provide ample nesting sites that can be removed for incubation, as the eggs are often broken during attempts to peel them from the deposition surface. Corkbark slabs are ideal, as they can be cut to fit incubators if need be.   

Incubation

Suitably-sized plastic terrariums, with the ventilation ports sealed, make ideal incubators.  Eggs under my care generally hatched in 60-80 days at 82-85 F, but temperatures of 70-90 F, and incubation times of 30-90 days, have been reported.

Eggs deposited on glass are difficult to remove; I’ve incubated House and Day Gecko eggs on glass by affixing a cup containing damp sphagnum moss over the eggs, but this is not an ideal situation.

The Young

Hatchlings average a bit over 2 inches in length and may be reared on fruit and other flies, small crickets and roaches, silkworms, moths, termites and similar insects (please see diet comments above). 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Gecko Gliding Explained: excellent, comprehensive articles with photo of geckos “in flight”

Incubating Reptile Eggs

Kuhl’s Flying Gecko: great photos

Ptychozoon kuhli image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Manuel Werner

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos – Breeding and Care

The post Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos – Breeding and Care appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Carotenoids

Carotenoids are pigments that occur in plants. Animals, as far as is known, cannot manufacture carotenoids but rather must obtain them through their diet. 

Carotenoids benefit the immune system by acting as antioxidants, function in the reproductive and other systems, and are believed partially responsible for the health benefits enjoyed by people who regularly consume fruits and vegetables.  We know little of their role in reptile and amphibian health, but many zoo nutritionists believe them to be important.

Diets Tested

Three cricket diets were examined in the Zoo Biology study: wheat/wheat germ, fish food flakes and fresh fruits/vegetables.

As might be expected, crickets that were fed fruits and vegetables proved to have the highest carotenoid levels.

The fish flake diet resulted in intermediate carotenoid levels, with the lowest levels being seen in crickets feeding upon wheat germ.

These results held true for all 3 cricket species tested.

Cricket Species

Three species of crickets were used in the study.

The Domestic, Brown or House Cricket, Acheta domesticus, the species most commonly used for pet food in the USA, is native to southwestern Asia but is now established nearly worldwide.

The Tropical or Decorated House Cricket, Gryllodes sigillatus, is not commonly seen in the trade, but is worth more attention.  Hailing from Southern Europe, Africa and Asia, it is now established in Florida (surprise, surprise!), southeastern Texas, Louisiana and several nearby states.  The Tropical House Cricket bears tiny wings and therefore contains less indigestible matter than other species. Like the other popular crickets, it breeds year-round when kept warm.

The Two-Spotted or Mediterranean Field Cricket, Gryllus bimaculatus, resembles G. veletis and some other American Field Crickets, but is larger and “meatier” (please see photo). However, it is equipped with powerful mandibles, so caution is warranted. Commonly used by European and Asian keepers, it is not often seen in the US. Japanese keepers informed me that the males fight savagely, but a single male can accommodate many females. It has also been reported as feral in Florida and Texas.

In the Zoo Biology study, Mediterranean Field Crickets achieved higher carotenoid concentrations (on all diets) than did Domestic or House Crickets.  No species retained carotenoids for very long, so the timing of feeding is important, and bears further study.

Other Crickets and Grasshoppers

The world’s 20,000+ species of crickets, katydids, grasshoppers, locusts and their relatives (order Orthoptera) provide exciting opportunities for those interested in herp nutrition.  Many of the 1,000+ species native to the USA are easy to collect and rear.  Breeding is not as simple, especially for temperate species that need a period of dormancy, but well-worth investigating.  Please see this article for further information on collecting and rearing native species, and write me with your ideas and experiences. 

Some Orthopterans, such as the various wetas (please see photo), are among the world’s heaviest insects, and seem capable of being more herp predator than herp food!

In response to a virus that threatened House Cricket supplies, commercial breeders have begun working with the Jamaican House Cricket, Gryllus assimilis.  Adults are equipped with formidable mandibles capable of breaking human skin and injuring various pets.  Their use requires careful consideration…please see the article below and write in for further information. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.  

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Tropical House Crickets in Florida 

House Cricket Care and Breeding

Collecting and Rearing Grasshoppers 

Jamaican Field Crickets: one keeper’s experiences

African Field Cricket image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Danny Steaven

veggies image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by mhaller1979

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Crickets and Carotenoids – Study Examines Cricket Nutrient Levels

The post Crickets and Carotenoids – Study Examines Cricket Nutrient Levels appeared first on That Reptile Blog.