That Reptile Blog » Product Reviews

UVB Light: Why Do Reptiles Need It, and Which UVB Bulbs are Best?

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 10 May 2013 15:29:50 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Our understanding of the role that Ultraviolet B Light plays in the lives of reptiles and amphibians has increased greatly over the last few decades, but we still have much to learn about the needs of individual species. A good deal of conflicting information has been published, and opinions differ even among my well-experienced herpetologist colleagues. Today I’ll provide some basic information on UVB light in natural and captive situations, including some tips as to how best to provide it to the animals under your care. I’d like to stress that many variables will affect your individual situation…please post below for specific information.

What is Ultraviolet B (UVB) Light?

The various types of light are characterized by different wavelengths, which are expressed in nanometers (nm). There are three types of Ultraviolet Light, two of which are important to reptile and amphibian husbandry.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Gary2863 at en.wikipedia

UVB Light has a wavelength of 280- 320 nm. Many reptiles synthesize Vitamin D3 (or, more specifically, Pre-Vitamin D/Cholecalciferol) in their skin when exposed to UVB light. The optimum range for Vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles is 290-315 nm.

Why is UVB Needed?

Certain reptiles seem dependent upon skin-manufactured Vitamin D3, and cannot use D3 contained in the food that they eat. Therefore, vitamin supplements will not meet their needs. Rather, these reptiles must bask in the sun or under UVB-emitting bulbs.

Reptiles need Vitamin D3 in order to absorb and use Calcium. Without adequate supplies of both nutrients, a condition commonly known as Metabolic Bone Disease will develop. Afflicted animals pull Calcium from their bones and replace it with fibrous tissue, and in the process suffer growth deformities and difficulties in locomotion and feeding.

Which Animals Need UVB?

As far as we know, heliothermic reptiles – those that regularly bask in the sun – need UVB in order to produce Vitamin D3 in the skin. Examples include most semi-aquatic turtles and diurnal (day-active) lizards, and all tortoises and crocodilians. Some of these also seem able to use dietary Vitamin D3 to varying extents, but details are lacking and most do poorly if denied UVB exposure.

Snakes, Common Snapping Turtles and other aquatic turtles, and nocturnal lizards (i.e. Leopard Geckos) are able to obtain D3 from their food. Captives generally do fine without UVB light, provided that sufficient D3 is present in the diet. Many if not all can also manufacture D3 in the skin, so UVB bulbs may be useful as “insurance”.

Amphibians utilize dietary D3, and most seem not to require UVB exposure. There is some evidence, however, that low levels may be of use to Poison Frogs and other diurnal species. As field studies have shown that plant cover does not block all UVB, it follows that diurnal amphibians will receive some exposure. On the other hand, the skin and eggs of some amphibians contain chemicals that filter-out UVB. We still have a great deal to learn.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by JJ Harrison

Providing UVB to Pet Reptiles and Amphibians

Natural sunlight is the best source of UVB, but please remember that overheating can occur quickly, and that UVB does not penetrate glass or most plastics. Screen cages offer options in some situations…please see this article for further information.

Florescent UVB Bulbs

In recent tests, the Zoo Med 5.0 and 10.0 Bulbs were found superior to several other models (please see this article). The highest UVB levels occur within 6 inches of the bulb; UVB output declines by 80-90% at 18 inches. Therefore, your pet’s basking site should be within 6-8 inches of the bulb.

Basking sites of varying distances should be provided, as reptiles will adjust their exposure as needed. Some chameleons, for example, modify their basking behavior in accordance with the Vitamin D3 content of their diets (please see article linked below). If a basking site cannot be arranged near the bulb, a shallow “basking enclosure” may be necessary…please post below for further information.

Florescent bulbs stop emitting UVB after a time, but will continue to give off visible light. Therefore, it is important to make a note of your bulb’s useful life. Zoo Med offers a free email “replacement reminder” service.

Florescent UVB Bulbs provide little heat. Situating one near an incandescent basking bulb will ensure that your pet receives UVB exposure each time it seeks warmth.

Halogen and Mercury Vapor UVB Bulbs

Halogen and Mercury Vapor Bulbs generally emit higher levels of UVB than florescent bulbs, and broadcast it over greater distances. They also give-off heat, and so may eliminate the need for an additional heat source.

Full Spectrum Bulbs

Aquarium bulbs labeled as “Full Spectrum” usually emit little if any UVB.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by JamieS93

Which UVB Bulb is Best for my Pet?

Your pet’s natural will determine which UVB bulb to select. Unfortunately, however, few studies have been done on the specific needs of individual reptiles. But experience has provided important lessons…please post below for information on the animals in your collection.

In general, UVB exposure is very important to desert-dwellers, species that bask frequently in the wild, and young, growing individuals.

Low-output UVB bulbs, such as the Zoo Med 2.0 , are designed for use with Arrow Poison Frogs and other amphibians that may benefit from some exposure. If you decide to use a low output UVB, be sure to provide your frogs with shelters that allow them to avoid the light.

Measuring UVB

UVB meters provide an accurate means of measuring your pet’s exposure and will also enable you to keep track of the decline in UVB output as your bulbs age. As reflection from various surfaces, the type of terrarium cover used and other factors can radically affect the amount UVB that reaches your pet, a UVB meter is an essential item for every serious reptile keeper. Please post below for links to suppliers.

What About Ultraviolet A (UVA) Light?

UVA light has a wavelength of 320-400 nanometers. Although perhaps not essential, UVA can greatly improve your pet’s quality of life and breeding potential.

UVA helps regulate circadian rhythms, seasonal changes in activity levels, appetite and other important processes, and may be critical to successful reproduction in certain reptiles. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Providing UVA to Reptiles and Amphibians

Vitamin D and Chameleon Basking Behavior: an Interesting Study

Post from: That Reptile Blog

UVB Light: Why Do Reptiles Need It, and Which UVB Bulbs are Best?

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The Best Foods for Poison Frogs, Mantellas and Other Tiny Amphibians

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 18 Apr 2013 17:13:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I began working with Poison Frogs and Mantellas in zoos just as the secrets to longevity and breeding were being discovered. Today, captive-bred animals are almost mainstream. This is wonderful, but there is a downside – they are sometimes viewed as “simple to keep”. But while these tiny gems can be surprisingly hardy, they will not thrive long-term if their unique nutritional requirements are not met. Friends of mine who have broken new ground with Poison Frogs – in one case years before most zoos did – have always expended a great deal of effort on providing a varied diet. The following information is drawn from their and my own experiences over several decades, and may also be applied to the care of many other small and newly-transformed amphibians.

General Considerations

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Marcel Burkhard

Although we do not know the exact nutritional needs of any species, certain principles have become evident. Chief among these is that a highly-varied diet is essential. Crickets alone, even if powdered with supplements, are not an adequate diet. There are exceptions, but nearly every study of free-living amphibians reveals that a surprising range of prey species are consumed.

Comparatively large species, such as the Golden Poison Frog (Phyllobates terribilis), are able to consume a wider range of food items than their tiny relatives, and hence may be a better choice for most hobbyists. The largest Mantellas reach a mere 1 ½ inches in length, so providing for them can be quite a challenge.

Poison and Mantella Frogs have large appetites and should be fed every day or two. One Brown Mantella was observed to eat 53 ants in 30 minutes!

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Shipher Wu

The Ideal Diet

Always try to offer your frogs as many of the following food items as possible.

Moths, Gnats and other Small Flying Insects

These can be easily collected near outdoor lights. Zoo Med’s Bug Napper, which traps live insects drawn to light, is indispensable to serious frog-keepers. I use it at home, and relied upon similar models during my zoo career (please see photo).

Leaf Litter Invertebrates

Ants, slugs, millipedes, sow bugs, mites, springtails, bristletails, termites and similar creatures form the bulk of the natural diets of most small ground-dwelling frogs. And whether you live in the countryside or the heart of NYC, a free supply is as close as the nearest batch of decaying leaves. Please see this article for further information.

Simple pitfall traps can also be used to harvest a variety of small invertebrates.

Flightless Fruit Flies

Cultures are available commercially, and once you develop a system you can assure a year-round supply.

Aphids

Aphids are tiny insects that gather in huge groups on the stems of native and garden plants. In many habitats, hundreds can be collected in a few minutes by merely snipping off an infested stem. As a child, I fed aphids to a wide variety of creatures, including American Toad and Gray Treefrog metamorphs, Red-Backed Salamanders and hatchling Chinese Mantids, and continued to use them throughout my zoo career. They are soft-bodied (an important consideration for some frogs), and seem to be a nutritious food item.

Springtails

These primitive insects are an excellent food source and can be bred year-round (cultures available commercially) or collected below leaf litter just about anywhere. They are easy to nutrient-load, feeding ravenously upon fish flakes and soaked Reptomin.

Termites

Termites are valuable foods for Poison Frogs, and are likely consumed by most in the wild. Termites can easily be collected from colonies established in dead logs. A termite trap, baited with damp cardboard, is simple to construct and may yield thousands of insects each season. Please see the article linked below.

Flour Beetle Larvae

I was first introduced to flour beetles some 20 years ago by Bob Holland, a friend who was setting Poison Frog longevity records before most zoos kept any at all. Back then, we collected our stock from old boxes of dog biscuits. Today, two species easy-to-breed insects are available commercially. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Ants

Experimentation is required where ants are concerned, as some species are rejected and others are adept at repelling predators. But the effort is worthwhile, as ants feature heavily in the diets of nearly all small frogs. Most are easy to trap. During my years at the Bronx Zoo, nuptial flights of breeding males and females would erupt regularly from a colony beneath the Reptile House. I’d gather as many as possible, and delighted in seeing the enthusiastic responses of creatures ranging from Spring Peepers to Pangolins.

“Meadow Plankton”

This is a term used by entomologists to describe the myriads of tiny invertebrates that can be gathered by sweeping through tall grass with a net. Beating bushes so that insects fall onto a sheet spread below is equally rewarding (and great fun…I’ve collected some fascinating creatures in these ways!). Tiny grasshoppers, tree crickets, caterpillars, leafhoppers and innumerable others can contribute greatly to the health of your animals.

It takes some time to properly master this technique, and there are some precautions that must be taken (recognizing dangerous species, pesticide concerns) Please see this article and post your questions below.

Praying Mantid Nymphs

Hatchling mantids are an excellent food for tiny amphibians of all kinds. Egg cases may be collected or purchased from garden supply dealers. Please see this article to learn more about this under-utilized food.

Pinhead and 10 day-old Crickets

Crickets should themselves properly fed. Please see this article for information on their husbandry and use.

Supplements

All commercial insects (crickets, fruit flies) should be powdered with Tetra ReptoCal or Zoo Med ReptiCalcium. A vitamin/mineral supplement such as ReptiVite with D3 should be used 2-3 times weekly. I do not supplement wild-caught insects.

Colleagues in various zoos are experimenting with other supplements; I’ll stay alert for developments. In the meantime, please post your own experiences below.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Building a Termite Trap

Breeding Flour Beetles

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Best Foods for Poison Frogs, Mantellas and Other Tiny Amphibians

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The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:06:45 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Like most lifelong animal keepers, I consider myself to be a fairly good judge of humidity levels in the home terrariums and zoo exhibits under my care. But when I began working in new buildings equipped with state-of-the-art hygrometers (humidity gauges), I quickly realized that I had much to learn. I was especially surprised to discover how widely humidity levels can vary within even a small enclosure, and how this can affect every facet of an animal’s life. The accurate, easy-to-use humidity gauges now available offer us the chance to provide better care to our charges and perhaps to uncover important new details about their lives.

Recent Innovations in Humidity Monitoring

Over the past several decades, hobbyists and zoos have greatly expanded the number of rare and delicate species that can be kept and bred in captivity. Many of these successes have been due to an increased understanding of the roles that UVB, temperature, diet and other such factors play in their lives.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Luc Viatour

Humidity levels have also been taken into account by serious animal owners, but this topic has been given less attention than others. This is partially because many reptiles, and some amphibians and invertebrates, can meet their needs by soaking in a water bowl or retreating to a moist shelter. But the real obstacle has been the unavailability of affordable hygrometers designed for use with animals. Happily, humidity gauges that fit just about every terrarium and budget are now available, and all are very simple to use (since I can do it!).

Areas of Special Concern

While all animals are to some degree affected by humidity levels, certain captives require closer monitoring than others. Humidity levels are crucial when most species are shedding/molting. Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, hermit crabs, mantids and other invertebrates easily become, as we say, “stuck in the molt” when humidity levels are too low. While we can sometimes assist them in this situation, most die.

Reptiles and amphibians usually survive dry molts, but problems ranging from fungal/bacterial infections beneath old skin to digit loss and retained eye caps may result. Poison frogs and other small, highly active amphibians, and those that remain in the open when resting, as do most treefrogs, are especially at risk from overly-dry conditions. Please see the articles below for further information on herp and invertebrate shedding concerns.

Humidity plays an important role in activity levels, cutaneous respiration, reproduction, immune system function, skin health and a wide variety of other processes. With so many amphibians in dire need of captive breeding these days, I believe it is critical that we begin to record our observations concerning humidity levels. Please consider using a hygrometer and relaying your thoughts by posting below; I’ll be sure to pass the information along, thanks.

The Zilla Humidity and Temperature Digital Gauge

This is my favorite gauge for average to large terrariums. The separate probes for temperature and humidity attach to the glass via suction cups, allowing for easy movement so that various areas of the terrarium (cave, basking site, etc.) can be monitored. I find the thin, 59 inch-long wires connected to the probes to be especially valuable. In smaller enclosures, the wires can be rolled up and secured with a twist-tie. The unit itself measures only 4 x 1 ½ inches, and is quite unobtrusive. It remains outside the terrarium, and features a built-in stand and a notch for wall mounting.

The Zilla Gauge monitors a humidity range of 10-99% and temperatures from -58 F to 158 F (if your pet requires conditions outside of those ranges, it likely belongs in a zoo!). “Comfort”, “Wet” and “Dry” messages are displayed at certain readings. While these are general in nature and will not apply to all species, many hobbyists find them useful. Temperatures can be displayed in either Fahrenheit or Celsius.

The unit also features an alarm, which can function as a reminder to check the terrarium or administer medications (if you sleep as lightly as I, it might also serve as an alarm clock!).

The Zoo Med Dual Humidity Gauge and Thermometer

Although marketed for use with hermit crabs, this small (3” x 1 ½”) gauge is ideal for small to moderately-sized terrariums housing most any species. Despite being quite inexpensive, it is accurate and stands up well to both damp and hot conditions.

The temperature and humidity levels are displayed side-by-side on brightly-colored, easy-to-read dials. “Dry”, “Optimum” and “Wet” ranges (for hermit crabs) are shown in different colors. The gauge attaches to glass with a sturdy Velcro strip.

Being colorful and simple to read, the Zoo Med Gauge is a great way to introduce youngsters to the concept of monitoring and recording environmental conditions. I plan to present several to my 5-year old nephew (shown here examining his “pet” mosquito larvae, much to his mom’s chagrin!) for use with his fire salamanders and domino roaches.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Shedding Problems and Other Scorpion Ailments

Leopard Gecko Shedding Concerns

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Best Humidity Gauges for Reptile, Amphibian and Invert Habitats

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Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:25:19 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Gaily clad in brilliant, neon-hued colors, Day Geckos (Phelsuma spp.) are among the most desirable of all lizard pets, so here is a short article about Day Gecko care. Many are hardy, long-lived, and relatively simple to breed…but only if they are housed in a properly-designed habitat. Active and alert, these cautious animals fare poorly in bare enclosures, but are ideally suited for life in naturalistic, planted terrariums. The security provided by dense plantings and well-placed branches will put Day Geckos at ease and allow you to view a wide range of fascinating behaviors.

Setting up the Terrarium

Day Geckos are highly arboreal and must have climbing opportunities. “High-style” aquariums make fine homes. A pair or trio of Spotted, Yellow-Throated or other small species can be kept in a 15-20 gallon aquarium. A 30-55 gallon tank will accommodate the same number of Standing’s, Madagascar or Giant Day Geckos. Always opt for the largest terrarium possible.

Photo uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Manuel Werner, Nürtingen, Germany

Day Geckos need spacious enclosures that mimic their natural habitat. Live plants such as Pothos and Philodendron will provide visual barriers between tank-mates and a sense of security. Rolled cork bark and hollow bamboo sections make ideal hideaways and perching sites, and should be arranged both horizontally and vertically.

Be sure to establish plenty of basking sites near heat and UVB bulbs, as dominant individuals may exclude others from these important areas.

The terrarium’s screen lid must be tightly secured with clamps.

Substrate

A mix of potting soil, cypress mulch and sphagnum moss is ideal.

Light

Day Geckos will not thrive without a source of UVB light (but some notable exceptions are known; please see article below). Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

Your geckos should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb; the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb, which I have used at the Bronx and Staten Island Zoos, has been shown to out-perform other florescent models. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well. Be sure to provide shaded areas.

A daytime period of 12-14 hours should be established.

Heat

Ambient temperatures of 82-88 F, with a basking spot of 90-95 F, will suit most (please post below for information on individual species).

Incandescent spotlights may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Provide your pets with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. In small or poorly ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

Humidity

Most Day Geckos are rainforest dwellers and do best in humid surroundings. Their terrarium should be misted at least twice daily. If your home is especially dry, consider using a small reptile fogger to raise the humidity levels in the terrarium (please see photo).

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together. Females are territorial, and must be watched carefully. Pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) and youngsters may co-exist in large enclosures, but be sure to check dominant individuals do not prevent others from feeding and basking.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Keeping Day Geckos without a UVB Source

Gecko Overview

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

The post Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The Best Terrarium Cleaning Products and Methods

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 01 Apr 2013 16:01:31 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. During a long career zoo career that found me working with animals ranging from ants to elephants, I’ve had many occasions to review veterinary and pathology reports. In doing so, I’ve come to understand that zoonotic diseases – those that can pass from animals to people – are a potential concern in the keeping of any pet. Most people associate Salmonella, the best known zoonotic, with reptiles, but nearly any animal, including dogs, cats and birds, may harbor this bacterium. Fortunately, Salmonella and other infections can be avoided by following a few relatively simple rules.

Note: This article is not meant to replace a doctor’s advice, nor is it intended to discourage pet ownership. By observing a few simple precautions, the most commonly-encountered problems can be effectively managed. Please post your questions and concerns below, and be sure to consult your doctor or veterinarian for specific information concerning disease prevention and treatment.

What Are the Risks?

Uploaded to Wikipedia by Jens Raschendorf.

If we are to safely enjoy our pets, it is important that we become aware of the concerns while maintaining a reasonable perspective.

For example, while it is true that Salmonella bacteria are likely present in all reptile and amphibian digestive tracts, merely handling an animal that carries Salmonella will not cause an infection. Salmonella bacteria are harmful to people only if ingested. Consider also that dogs may potentially carry at least 17 harmful microorganisms, yet the vast majority of dog owners are never troubled by health problems. Similarly, the same can be said of reptile owners, zookeepers and herpetologists – Salmonella infections are not typical.

Please see this article for information concerning Mycobacteria.

How Infections Are Contracted

Understanding how bacteria are transferred from animals to people is the key to avoiding Salmonella infections. Salmonella bacteria are shed in the feces and can live on counters, tools, food bowls, animal skin and other surfaces for several days.

Reptile skin, water bowls, terrarium substrates and other surfaces may harbor bacteria that have been shed in feces. People can become infected and/or spread the bacteria to others if they handle a reptile (or its cage, etc.) and then eat or touch surfaces that come in contact with food before washing properly.

Basic Rules

Always wash your hands with hot, soapy water after handling animals and tools used to service aquariums or terrariums, and after being in an area where animals are allowed to roam free.

Stop working with your pets if you receive a cut or break in the skin. Exposing a wound to terrarium or aquarium water after applying an antibiotic will negate the value of the medicine. Seek a doctor’s advice.

Wear gloves or use a substrate scooper when cleaning animal enclosures. Disposable gloves, available in pharmacies, are fine for most terrariums. Coralife Aqua Gloves, which reach to the elbow, are very useful for aquarium work. Wear goggles if splashing water is a concern.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by , LiquidGhoul.

Reptiles should not be allowed into kitchens, dining rooms or other areas where food is prepared or eaten. Bathroom sinks and tubs, and areas where infants are bathed, should also be off-limits.

Reptiles should not be allowed to roam about the home (this presents a fire hazard as well). If it is necessary to keep a reptile un-caged, it should be confined to an easily-cleaned room from which human food and at-risk individuals (small children and elderly or immune-compromised individuals) are excluded.

Terrariums, aquariums, food bowls and other animal-related items should not be cleaned in kitchen or bathroom sinks. A plastic tub should be used if a basement or “animal-only” sink is not available. Rinse water and fecal material should be disposed of in a toilet, not a sink or tub. Clean accidental spills with a product that contains bleach.

Never start a siphon by sucking on its end with your mouth. Always fill it with water to create suction or use a hand-operated siphon starter.

Do not drink, eat or smoke while working with animals. Never kiss your pet or feed it from bowls used for your own meals.

The Center for Disease Control guidelinescontain additional precautions. Please review them carefully.

Cleaning Terrariums, Aquariums and Related Items

Reptile enclosures, food bowls and the like should be cleaned with Nolvasan, a reptile-safe commercial cleaner, or a bleach solution (1 cup bleach per gallon of water). Zoo Med Wipe Out Terrarium Cleaner kills a wide range of commonly-encountered bacteria, including Salmonella and Pseudomonas.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Pedro Reina.

Amphibians, invertebrates and fishes are especially sensitive to chemicals. Their terrariums and aquariums should be cleaned with fish-safe products or with the bleach solution described above.

Cleaning implements should be soaked in any of the aforementioned cleaners before being re-used. Be sure to remove feces and other organic material before soaking. Rinse the tools well after removal from the soak solution. Immersion in water containing an instant de-chlorinator is recommended for hard-to-clean items (i.e. siphon and filter tubes) that are to be used with fishes or amphibians.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Salmonella Prevention Guidelines

Aqua Gloves

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Best Terrarium Cleaning Products and Methods

The post The Best Terrarium Cleaning Products and Methods appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Green Sea Turtles Die on Farm – Do Meat-Trade Turtles Aid Conservation?

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 24 Sep 2012 14:34:29 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. An accident that caused the deaths of 299 endangered Green Turtles at the Cayman Turtle Farm has raised concerns about the facility’s operation. The incident brought other issues to my mind as well. I was first inspired by the legendary herpetologist Archie Carr, and have since been involved in several field studies of Green, Leatherback and other marine turtles (please see article below). I see the value in organizations such as Cayman Turtle Farm, which raises turtles for the food market while also racking up important “firsts” in breeding and research. However, many disagree with me. What’s your opinion? Any comments you may wish to post below would be much appreciated.

Conservation through Commercialization

Whatever your personal feelings concerning the consumption of turtles or other animals may be, it is clear that commercial farming can play a role in conservation. The classic US example is the American Alligator. Legal protections helped, of course, but large scale breeding for the meat and hide trade made a huge difference in that species’ future.

More recently, the farming of Chinese Softshell Turtles has been advanced as a means to ease the “Asian Turtle Crisis” (please see article below). Herp hobbyists are now breeding species that were unknown even in zoos in years past, often eliminating the financial incentive for collecting wild specimens in the process (please see Do Reptile Hobbyists Help or Hinder Conservation?). At least one conservation organization, Wikiri, is now funding research by breeding frogs for the pet trade (please see this article).

Just last month, I had the thrilling opportunity to meet Jack Rudloe, a legendary naturalist whose work has influenced me since childhood. We spoke about “practical conservation” and, while there are many gray areas, it is clear to me that we cannot operate in a vacuum when the needs of people and animals collide. If this subject interests you, I highly recommend his Time of the Turtle, which combines fact, observations and a premier conservationist’s thoughts in the style of Ditmars, Pritchard and other greats…a rare treat. The Sea Brings Forth and his other books are also unequalled…you’ll not be disappointed!

Turtle Deaths at Cayman Turtle Farm

On July 16, 2012, a leaking underground pipe led to the deaths of 299 3-5 year-old Green Turtles. As marine turtles can survive for quite some time without water, concerns were raised as to why the problem was not discovered sooner. Other questions arose as to the propriety of keeping so many individuals in the same tank and regarding the 2 week interval between the incident and public disclosure.

While the Cayman Turtle Farm has an impressive conservation record, its operation has not been problem-free. An attempt to ship live Green Turtles to Europe was in violation of CITES regulations, and waves from a 2001 hurricane released 75% of the farm’s breeding stock.

In a press release, Cayman Turtle Farms stated that new safeguards, including a backup water supply, have been installed.

Conservation at Cayman Turtle Farm

Founded in 1968, the Cayman Turtle Farm is the island’s largest land-based tourist attraction. It was originally conceived as a means of producing Green Turtle meat via breeding as opposed to hunting. Over time, a significant research/conservation component was added. Turtles hatched at the farm mated and nested in 1975, a first time event that has not been accomplished elsewhere.

In 1980, a breeding program was undertaken to further the conservation of the Kemp’s Ridley Turtle. In 1984, the farm became the only facility to have bred this highly endangered reptile in captivity.

Second generation Green Turtle hatchlings were produced in 1989, and to date 31,000 have been released in conjunction with a “head-starting” effort. This year (2012), a second generation Green Turtle was released and is being monitored via satellite tag. This study, the only one of its kind, may provide important information on the adaptations of captive-bred turtles to the wild. Given marine turtles’ extensive travels and complex mating strategies, herpetologists are very interested in the outcome. You can follow this turtle, known as “Jerry”, here.

Note: Your observations and opinions on this somewhat loaded topic would be most appreciated…please post below.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Further Reading

Tagging Green Turtles in Costa Rica

Time of the Turtle, by Jack Rudloe: (reviews)

The Asian Turtle Crisis

Cayman Turtle Farm Conservation Programs

News Report and Turtle Farm Statement

Green Sea Turtle image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Brocken Inaglory
Green Sea Turtle Farm image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Burtonpe
Green Sea Turtle Feeding image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Lhb1239
Chinese Softshell Turtle Farm image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Clunio

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Green Sea Turtles Die on Farm – Do Meat-Trade Turtles Aid Conservation?

The post Green Sea Turtles Die on Farm – Do Meat-Trade Turtles Aid Conservation? appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Artificial Bromeliads as Poison Frog Breeding Sites – Part 2

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 08 Mar 2011 14:33:16 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In Part 1 of this article I introduced Hagen’s new Smart Plants, an exciting line of realistic artificial plants (Bromeliads and Scindapsis) that contain small water-holding pools at their bases. When properly positioned in a terrarium, they provide naturalistic sites into which female Poison Frogs can deposit their tadpoles. Today we’ll see how other amphibians and reptiles can make use of this new and much-needed innovation.

Arboreal Reptiles

In the wild, most highly arboreal snakes and lizards find all the water they need without ever setting foot or belly on the ground. Captives, especially high-strung or wild caught individuals, may be stressed if forced to do so.

Red-Tailed Ratsnakes and some Taiwan Beauty Snakes that I kept in large zoo exhibits rarely left the tree branches for water, but readily accepted bowls fastened to branches. Emerald Tree Boas, Green Tree Pythons and other tree specialists also prefer to drink while perched above the ground. One Scrub Python that I cared for was so “stubborn” about leaving her perch that I was forced to inject water into a dead rat offered on a long-handled tong.

The pools within Hagen’s Bromeliads should serve well as above-ground water bowls, and could also be used to provide nectar to Anoles, Day Geckos, New Caledonian Giant Geckos and similar lizards.

Amphibians, Tarantulas and Others

Arboreal Salamanders (Bolitoglossa ssp.) are troublesome captives, and do best in rather arid terrariums provisioned with watery retreats among the branches. Wild specimens of several species are most commonly encountered hiding within Bromeliads.

I had serious problems maintaining confiscated Arboreal Salamanders in the past, mainly due to their unique habitat requirements (they dehydrate easily, but tend to shed their tails if over-watered). I had some success using live Bromeliads, but would perhaps have fared better had artificial ones been available as well.

Bromeliad leaves and pools are also the preferred retreats of a great many arboreal frogs, including Red-Eyed and Cuban Treefrogs. Pink-Toed and other tree-dwelling Tarantulas, along with some snails, mantids and other invertebrates, may also put artificial Bromeliad pools to good use.

Crowded Ponds in the Treetops

Hundreds of animal species rely upon the water contained within Bromeliads and similar plants that grow above-ground (in nature, they attach themselves to trees). Tropical forest canopies are among the least studied habitats on earth, and full of surprises – one Smithsonian researcher found 100 new beetle species in a single tree in Panama, while another study showed that the Bromeliads in 2.5 acres of rainforest can hold as much as 13,0000 gallons of water.

Spiders that dive into minute pools to catch mosquito larvae, crabs that never descend to earth, tadpoles that are fed eggs by their mothers, salamanders observed nowhere else – the list of Bromeliad-dependent creatures is endless, and can provide a lifetime of interest to those who wish to study and keep them.

Further Reading

Pineapple Dreams: interesting article about the unique adaptations of animals found among Bromeliads.

Please write in with your questions and comments.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Gold Dust Day Gecko image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Mila Zinkova

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Artificial Bromeliads as Poison Frog Breeding Sites – Part 2

The post Artificial Bromeliads as Poison Frog Breeding Sites – Part 2 appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

New Product – Artificial Bromeliads as Poison Frog Breeding Sites – Part 1

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 14:48:17 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Today I’d like to introduce Hagen’s Smart Plants, a new line of artificial plants that hold great promise for those keeping Poison Frogs (Dendrobates, Phyllobates, etc.) and arboreal snakes, tarantulas, crabs and similar creatures.

Bromeliad Specialists

Poison Frogs are well-known for their fascinating breeding strategies, which in some species involves transporting the tadpoles from terrestrial nest sites to the water-filled bases of Bromeliads and other plants, where they mature. Females of several species return to deposit unfertilized eggs as food…some even wait for a signal from the tadpole before laying (please see article below).

Artificial Tadpole-Rearing Pools

Keeping these little gems in a terrarium furnished with live plants is ideal, but not everyone does well with the sometimes finicky Bromeliads, and not all available types provide pools that collect water. Enter Hagen’s artificial Smart Plants. The company’s new Bromeliad, available in 8.5 inch and 14 inch sizes, is specifically designed to provide a naturalistic pond into which Poison Frog tadpoles can be deposited (I can hear herpers my age and older saying “Where were these things when I started out”?!).

The replicated Bromeliads are very realistic, and make fine terrarium decorations by themselves or when mixed in with living plants (the frogs will unerringly find the pools, no matter how dense is the plant cover). Frogs that I’ve maintained in large zoo exhibits have used artificial, elevated rearing sites such as overturned flower pots, so I have no doubt that the Bromeliads will be accepted.

The plants’ leaves can be molded to suit your needs, and are removable for easy cleaning. The line also includes a Scindapus (Devil’s Ivy/Pothos), and I’m hoping for new additions in the future.

Further Reading

Bromeliad-Living Tadpoles that Beg for Food

Life in a Bromeliad Pool: Crabs, Tadpoles, Spiders and more…

Next time we’ll look at using artificial Bromeliads with arboreal snakes, lizards, tarantulas and other creatures. Please write in with your questions and comments.

Thanks,

Frank Indiviglio

Dendrobates sylvatica image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Superoxen

Bromeliad image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by pinay06

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New Product – Artificial Bromeliads as Poison Frog Breeding Sites – Part 1

The post New Product – Artificial Bromeliads as Poison Frog Breeding Sites – Part 1 appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Earthworm Flakes – a New Food for Tadpoles, Newts and other Aquatic Pets

Frank Indiviglio — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 13:16:53 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. I have long been witness to the nutritional value of earthworms, and have even experimentally reared several amphibian and fish species on “earthworm only” diets (please see article below). In my experience, whole, well-fed earthworms come very close to being a perfect food item for a wide variety of carnivorous herps, fishes and invertebrates. What’s more, many animals cannot resist them – even those that rarely if ever encounter earthworms in the wild. Indeed, earthworms are often the first choice of zookeepers and experienced hobbyists seeking to induce feeding in “picky”, wild-caught or newborn amphibians, fishes and certain reptiles.

Earthworm Drawbacks

However, earthworms are expensive to purchase, and not everyone has the ability to collect them. Also, the tiny earthworms needed by smaller amphibians and fishes are nearly impossible to obtain unless one sets up a breeding colony. While this is feasible if you have access to a cool basement or similar area (please see article below), not everyone is able to indulge their pets in this manner.

Using Earthworm Flake Food

Enter Zoo Med’s Earthworm Flake Food, recently marketed as a breeding stimulant, fry rearing food and treat for tropical fishes. In addition to dried, powdered earthworms, Zoo Med’s exciting new food contains a variety of other nutritious ingredients, including salmon, krill, shrimp and plankton.

I believe Earthworm Flakes will also prove useful to those keeping smaller aquatic amphibians and other creatures. Tadpoles, Newts, smaller African Clawed Frogs, Crayfishes, Freshwater Shrimp, Snails and aquatic insects such as Diving Beetles would all benefit from a dose of earthworm nutrients in their diet.

Earthworm Flake Food might also be tried with those animals that, while preferring live invertebrates, can sometimes be induced to accept dry foods. Included among these would be newly-hatched Mexican Axolotls, aquatic salamander larvae of many species, and Dwarf African Clawed Frogs.

I have a special interest in North American Catfishes and other native fishes, most of which go into a feeding frenzy when supplied with earthworms. I plan to try Earthworm Flakes with some of these as well.

Further Reading

Of course, its hard to top the real thing…please see my article Keeping and Breeding Earthworms if you’d like to start your own colony.

Please write in with your own experiences, questions and comments.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Tadpoles image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by bohringer freidrich

Post from: That Reptile Blog

Earthworm Flakes – a New Food for Tadpoles, Newts and other Aquatic Pets

The post Earthworm Flakes – a New Food for Tadpoles, Newts and other Aquatic Pets appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The Penn Plax Turtle Pier – a Useful New Basking Site for Turtles and Amphibians

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 13:12:46 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.After decades of struggling to create makeshift land areas for semi-aquatic reptiles and amphibians, I was very happy when pre-formed Turtle Docks, Turtle Logs and Turtle Banks became available. Today I’d like to review the recently-introduced Penn Plax Turtle Pier, which eliminates certain drawbacks associated with the previously mentioned products.

Drawbacks and Advantages of Various Platforms

Since their introduction, I’ve put the first line of basking docks and platforms to good use in my collection and in several of the aquarium and museum exhibits I’ve designed (please see article below). Their only limitations are that large turtles tend to sink them below the surface (which keeps the plastron from drying out completely) and robust individuals sometimes dislodge the platforms from the aquarium’s sides.

The Penn Plax Turtle Pier provides a much more stable platform, allowing larger turtles, or groups of small individuals, to dry out thoroughly. At 16 x 11 inches, the largest model (suitable for 20 gallon and larger aquariums) exceeds all other similar products in size.

The area below the dock doubles as a secure refuge for turtles, frogs, salamanders, fishes or crayfishes, and the lower support beams provide nice underwater resting areas. A ridged, sloped extension allows small newts, metamorphosing frogs (please see photo) and other weak swimmers to access the basking area without difficulty.

A Unique Use: Feeding Shy Frogs

I’ve found the Turtle Pier to possess a value that was perhaps unintended by its creator – it greatly eases the feeding of Leopard Frogs, American Bullfrogs and other semi-aquatic species.

These frogs need fairly deep water but cannot catch earthworms, fishes, crayfishes and similar foods below the surface (except in very shallow areas). Food animals left on small basking platforms invariably crawl into the water before they are eaten, especially if shy frogs are involved. The Turtle Pier’s wide, flat platform allows the food to remain available longer – either directly on the surface or by being confined to a bowl.

Turtle Piers in Marine Aquariums?

I’ve always loved public aquarium exhibits that utilize wooded docks and piers as part of their décor. I can envision using the Turtle Pier in a home version of these exhibits, with sea stars, snails and anemones colonizing the pier uprights, fishes swimming below and small crabs climbing up on the dock to forage for food items placed there.

Further Reading

Please see Basking Platforms in Private and Public Collections for more ideas.

Please write in with your questions and comments.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Late Stage Tadpole image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Viridiflavus

Post from: That Reptile Blog

The Penn Plax Turtle Pier – a Useful New Basking Site for Turtles and Amphibians

The post The Penn Plax Turtle Pier – a Useful New Basking Site for Turtles and Amphibians appeared first on That Reptile Blog.