That Reptile Blog » Geckos

Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:25:19 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Gaily clad in brilliant, neon-hued colors, Day Geckos (Phelsuma spp.) are among the most desirable of all lizard pets, so here is a short article about Day Gecko care. Many are hardy, long-lived, and relatively simple to breed…but only if they are housed in a properly-designed habitat. Active and alert, these cautious animals fare poorly in bare enclosures, but are ideally suited for life in naturalistic, planted terrariums. The security provided by dense plantings and well-placed branches will put Day Geckos at ease and allow you to view a wide range of fascinating behaviors.

Setting up the Terrarium

Day Geckos are highly arboreal and must have climbing opportunities. “High-style” aquariums make fine homes. A pair or trio of Spotted, Yellow-Throated or other small species can be kept in a 15-20 gallon aquarium. A 30-55 gallon tank will accommodate the same number of Standing’s, Madagascar or Giant Day Geckos. Always opt for the largest terrarium possible.

Photo uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Manuel Werner, Nürtingen, Germany

Day Geckos need spacious enclosures that mimic their natural habitat. Live plants such as Pothos and Philodendron will provide visual barriers between tank-mates and a sense of security. Rolled cork bark and hollow bamboo sections make ideal hideaways and perching sites, and should be arranged both horizontally and vertically.

Be sure to establish plenty of basking sites near heat and UVB bulbs, as dominant individuals may exclude others from these important areas.

The terrarium’s screen lid must be tightly secured with clamps.

Substrate

A mix of potting soil, cypress mulch and sphagnum moss is ideal.

Light

Day Geckos will not thrive without a source of UVB light (but some notable exceptions are known; please see article below). Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

Your geckos should be able to bask within 6-12 inches of a high-output UVB florescent bulb; the Zoo Med 10.0 Bulb, which I have used at the Bronx and Staten Island Zoos, has been shown to out-perform other florescent models. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and emit beneficial UVA radiation as well. Be sure to provide shaded areas.

A daytime period of 12-14 hours should be established.

Heat

Ambient temperatures of 82-88 F, with a basking spot of 90-95 F, will suit most (please post below for information on individual species).

Incandescent spotlights may be used by day; ceramic heaters or red/black reptile “night bulbs” are useful after dark.

Provide your pets with the largest home possible, so that a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures) can be established. Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow reptiles to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas. In small or poorly ventilated enclosures, the entire area soon takes on the basking site temperature.

Humidity

Most Day Geckos are rainforest dwellers and do best in humid surroundings. Their terrarium should be misted at least twice daily. If your home is especially dry, consider using a small reptile fogger to raise the humidity levels in the terrarium (please see photo).

Companions

Males will fight savagely and cannot be housed together. Females are territorial, and must be watched carefully. Pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) and youngsters may co-exist in large enclosures, but be sure to check dominant individuals do not prevent others from feeding and basking.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos – Breeding and Care

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 15 Aug 2012 15:41:30 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Like most lizard enthusiasts, I was mesmerized by Flying Geckos at first glance. Early on, both Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos (Ptychozoon lionotum and P. Kuhli) were rare in the trade, but by the early 1980’s I found them readily available and integrated both into a Southeast Asian exhibit I maintained at the Bronx Zoo. I had some breeding success, but today’s stock remains largely wild caught. Because they are both inexpensive and bizarre, Flying Geckos are often purchased by relatively inexperienced keepers. But while they can be hardy, prolific breeders, Flying Gecko ownership requires some forethought; hopefully the following information will prepare you.

Description

The 7 Flying Geckos in the genus Ptychozoon are among the most unique of the world’s 900+ gecko species. Both the Malayan and Kuhl’s reach 6-8 inches in length and are distinguished by skin folds (along the head, flanks and toes) that enable them to glide through the air. A heavily-serrated tail assists in breaking up their outline. In overall appearance, I can best describe them as “amazingly bark-like”.

Their color varies through a wide range of tans, grays and browns, and the skin is marked with an array of blotches and stripes. Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos are difficult to differentiate by eye; the Kuhl’s tongue is often tipped in black, but I cannot say whether this always holds true.

Range and Habitat

The Malayan Flying Gecko inhabits Myanmar, Thailand, India, Malaysia and neighboring islands. The range of Kuhl’s Flying Gecko extends from southern Thailand through Java, Sumatra, Malaysia, Borneo and Sulawesi, and overlaps that of its cousin extensively. Whether or not they hybridize, or utilize different niches within the same range, has not been researched. Other geckos are, however, known to partition habitats in species-rich areas; this article describes an interesting study carried out on Borneo.

Flying Geckos favor rainforests and other humid, densely-foliated habitats. However, they have colonized farms and human habitations, and it is from such areas that most are collected.

Captive Care

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos may be kept and bred under similar conditions. As most in the trade are wild-caught, stress, mites and internal parasites are a major concern. As concerns medication, I’ve found them to be quite delicate; be sure that you use a well-experienced veterinarian to examine all new arrivals.

The Terrarium

Although wild-caught females may initially produce eggs, sustained captive breeding is only possible if the appropriate environment and diet is provided. A spacious terrarium – a 20-30 gallon tank for a trio – is essential. “Tall” style aquariums are ideal. Flying Geckos spend most of their time on tree trunks, where their camouflage may be used to great advantage, and will be stressed if forced to use other resting sites. Corkbark or native tree bark must be available, and the cage should be densely-planted (live plants are best). Flying Geckos will not thrive in bare enclosures.

Temperature, Humidity and Light

Humidity should be maintained at 75-80% for most of the year (see “Breeding”), with a temperature gradient of 75-85 F. Nighttime temperatures can dip to 70 F. A mix of sphagnum moss and a forest bedding, serves well as a substrate.

Although Flying Geckos are nocturnal, wild individuals often spend their days in open situations, on tree trunks, and may therefore be exposed to UVB. Low doses of UVB, as provided by a ZooMed 2.0 bulb, are likely beneficial. Overly-bright environments should be avoided, so choose plants that do well in low light (pothos, snake and cast iron plants). Incandescent heat bulbs can be used to maintain temperatures; red/black night bulbs (which will assist in nighttime observations) or ceramic heater-emitters can be used after dark.

Diet

Flying Geckos specialize in hunting flying and arboreal insects, and will not fare well on crickets alone. Housefly cultures, silkworms, roaches, moths and other insects are essential to their well-being. The comments in this article on Red-Eyed Treefrog Diets are largely applicable; please write in if you have any questions on this critical aspect of husbandry.

Breeding

Mature males may be distinguished from females by their pre-anal pores and the two scaly skin-folds that outline the cloaca.

Males fight savagely, and cannot be housed together. A single male may be kept with multiple females. Gecko skin is delicate, and bite injuries may occur during courtship and copulation; check also for dominance battles among females.

Stimulating Reproduction

In the wild, breeding likely extends through much or all of the rainy season (March to May through October, depending upon locale). Increasing the frequency and duration of daily misting in the spring will encourage captives to come into breeding condition. Novel food items and increased dietary variety should also be introduced at this time. Some have reported that removing and re-introducing a male will stimulate interest.

Lowering temperature and humidity slightly during the fall and winter may also be useful, but is not critical (please write in for details).

The Eggs

Gravid female swell noticeably, and their 2 eggs will be visible through the skin in time. A well-fed female may produce 3, or possibly more, clutches of 2 eggs each. I’ve recorded inter-clutch intervals of 2-3 weeks, but this time period is likely affected by many factors.

Eggs are affixed to bark, glass or stout plant leaves. Be sure to provide ample nesting sites that can be removed for incubation, as the eggs are often broken during attempts to peel them from the deposition surface. Corkbark slabs are ideal, as they can be cut to fit incubators if need be.

Incubation

Suitably-sized plastic terrariums, with the ventilation ports sealed, make ideal incubators. Eggs under my care generally hatched in 60-80 days at 82-85 F, but temperatures of 70-90 F, and incubation times of 30-90 days, have been reported.

Eggs deposited on glass are difficult to remove; I’ve incubated House and Day Gecko eggs on glass by affixing a cup containing damp sphagnum moss over the eggs, but this is not an ideal situation.

The Young

Hatchlings average a bit over 2 inches in length and may be reared on fruit and other flies, small crickets and roaches, silkworms, moths, termites and similar insects (please see diet comments above).

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Breeding Leopard Geckos

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 13:22:47 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. At some point, lizard keepers usually think about breeding their favorite species. The ever-popular Leopard Gecko, Eublepharis macularius, is an excellent choice for both novice and advanced hobbyists. It is a reliable breeder, yet the conditions that must be established if one is to succeed are similar to those required by many other species; a beneficial learning process is thus ensured. Experienced breeders have developed a huge array of color and pattern morphs, and many enjoy “tinkering” with the genetics of these in order to create unique new gecko strains.

Note: Before attempting to breed any animal, it is important that you arrange homes for the youngsters. Please don’t assume that friends or pet stores will accept them…plan ahead.

Distinguishing the Sexes

Directly above the vent, you will see a series of “V” shaped bumps, the pre-anal pores. These are large and readily-visible in males and less-evident in females. Between the vent and the base of the tail, mature males also exhibit a pair of bulges, beneath which are the hemipenes. Please see the article below for a complete guide to determining your pets’ sex.

Breeding Age

Captive Leopard Geckos usually grow faster than their wild counterparts, and may become sexually mature at age 12 months. Year-old males may be bred, but it is preferable to wait until females are 18-24 months old. An even better indication of breeding readiness (for females) is weight, with 50-60 grams being ideal. A small postal or digital scale can be used to weigh your geckos.

“Almost Spontaneous” Breeding

Wild Leopard Geckos are brought into breeding condition by changes in daily temperatures and light levels. Captives may be stimulated by slight environmental changes, and so may seem to breed spontaneously. Separating and reintroducing a pair may also be effective.

While working at the Bronx Zoo, I even tried the old-timer’s technique of placing monitors and various pythons in a sack (or, rather, separate sacks!) and driving them about on a golf cart for awhile. Amazingly, this sometimes prompts breeding behavior – it seems that the “centers” for adjustment-to-change and reproduction are closely “wired” in some herps!

Conditioning Breeders: Cooling Off Period

However, a more reliable breeding method is to gradually reduce temperature and day-length, preferably in autumn. Feed your geckos well, perhaps increasing dietary variety, during the late summer. Cease feeding 10 days prior to the autumn cool-down, and do not begin dropping temperatures until the animals have defecated. Chilling your geckos before they have passed all wastes will lead to fatalities.

Drop the temperature by 10 F increments over 2 weeks or so, until 50 F is reached. Reduce the day/night cycle to 10 hour day and 14 hours night at the same time. Turning off basking lights and moving the tank may be used in the early stages. For the actual 5 week cooling off period, you’ll need a location that maintains 50 F. Basements and attics are often suitable, but be sure to test the site with a “high-lo thermometer” or other device that records temperatures over a 24 hour period.

Geckos in winter cool-down should be provided a hide box stocked with slightly moist sphagnum moss and a water bowl.

Conditioning Breeders: Warmth and Diet

Warm your lizards up slowly after their 5 week rest. Begin with small meals, progressing to a full diet once they are feeding well. Gravid females need ample calcium reserves, so use ReptoCal or ReptiCalcium on every meal, along with a vitamin/mineral supplement (i.e. Reptivite with D3) 2-3 times weekly. Although not essential, an occasional pink mouse may be offered at this time as well.

Please see this article for further info on providing a balanced diet.

Pairing and Breeding

In order to limit territorial aggression, place your male into the female’s cage. One male may be kept with several females, but trios usually work out best (some breeders keep a single male with up to 10 females…I’m assuming such males are fed very well, and are good at negotiating domestic squabbles!).

Female Leopard Geckos produce 2 eggs, which are often visible beneath the skin as they develop. Remove the male once copulation has been observed, or you notice a weight gain; watch also for overly aggressive males. Copulation is accompanied by biting about the neck, but continual harassment of the female is not normal.

A nest box stocked with moist sand, vermiculite and sphagnum moss should be provided and checked daily. Eggs may also be deposited in the hide box.

Even though we know a great deal about Leopard Gecko breeding, it is important to take notes on behavior, diet, temperature and other details. One never knows where the next unexpected discovery will pop up, and lessons learned while keeping common species are often applicable to endangered lizards…the fate of more and more of these, unfortunately, rests with captive breeding programs.

I’ll cover egg incubation and rearing the young in the future. Until then, please write in with your questions or comments.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

New Test for Cryptosporidiosis, an Incurable Disease of Snakes and Lizards

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 19:38:49 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. A decade or so ago, Cryptosporidiosis became recognized as a major concern in captive snake and lizard collections. Caused by a one-celled parasite known as Cryptosporidium varanii, the disease remains incurable to this day. At the Bronx Zoo, where I worked at the time, tests showed that many snakes already in our collection, along with wild and pet reptiles, might be harboring Cryptosporidium. But diagnosis was difficult and errors were common, resulting in the institution of expensive and time-consuming isolation protocols for new and sick animals. So I was happy to learn of a newly devised test that ensures early, accurate diagnosis of Cryptosporidium…it will surely prove useful to pet keepers and zoos alike.

Crypto and the Pet Trade

A number of factors render Cryptosporidiosis as a major concern, including the popularity of reptile pets and the fact that the parasite can be transferred to people. While not often of major concern to healthy adults, Crypto, as it came to be known, is a danger to immune-compromised individuals (please see article below). A recent survey of 672 pets revealed that 1 in 6 of the Corn Snakes and 1 in 12 of the Leopard Geckos tested harbored Crypto in one form or another.

Crypto is the most common cause of a Leopard Gecko ailment popularly known as “Stick Tail Disease”. The parasite dwells in the small intestine, where it prevents proper absorption of food; various bacteria to take hold as well, due perhaps to damage inflicted on the intestinal walls. Loose stools and weakness follow, and the gecko’s thick tail (which stores fat) wastes away to a mere “stick”. Crypto has caused similar problems in Gila monsters, monitors, chameleons and other species.

Crypto is passed in the feces (in a form known as an oocyst) and can remain alive for years until a host is found. Oocysts are difficult to kill other than by steam, undiluted ammonia and certain disinfectants not generally available to hobbyists.

Crypto in Zoo Animals and Wild Populations

Declining populations of many snakes and lizards makes zoo-based breeding programs all-the-more vital. However, Crypto is incurable; the many zoo animals that now harbor it must be isolated, and cannot be bred as the young will likely be infected as well.

The Importance of the New Test

The first Crypto tests, based on fecal samples, were unreliable because the parasite often appeared sporadically, or in minute populations, and so was easy to miss. Also, related parasites infect the foods eaten by snakes and lizards, and distinguishing between the species of Cryptosporidium present was nearly impossible.

Researchers at the University of Veterinary Medicine in Vienna have recently devised a DNA-based test that quickly and accurately reveals the presence of Cryptosporidium parasites (please see article below). The test also allows one to determine whether the parasite is present in the snake or lizard, or entered via the animal’s food.

Caring for Crypto-Positive Reptiles

Early detection is important because there are medications, such as Paromomycin, that can keep Crypto populations low enough to allow the infected reptile to survive. However, treatment is only effective if instituted within a certain time frame.

Crypto-positive reptiles cannot be cured at this time, and will require lifelong treatment and special care. Dr. Kevin Wright of the Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital has written an excellent paper on this subject (please see below); please read it to learn more about caring for such animals and preventing Crypto transmission.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook . Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Leopard Geckos in the Wild – the Natural History of a Popular Pet

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 19 Aug 2011 19:55:14 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Leopard Gecko, Eublepharis macularius, is one of the most popular of all reptilian pets, and much has been written on its care and breeding. But this lizard’s other side – how and where it lives in the wild – is less familiar.

Classification

First a bit on where the Leopard Gecko fits in among other lizards, and the species to which it is related.

Along with over 1,050 other species, Leopard Geckos were originally classified in Gekkonidae, the largest lizard family (please see article below). Today they are placed within their own family, Eublepharidae, along with relatives such as the Fat-Tailed and Banded Geckos (please see photo). Certain other family members are also commonly referred to as “Leopard Geckos” (i.e. the Vietnamese Leopard Gecko, Goniurosaurus araneus).

In addition to the Leopard Gecko, the genus Eublepharis contains 4 closely related species, the Dusky Leopard Gecko (at 10 inches in snout-vent length, the largest), the East Indian Leopard Gecko, the Iraqi Eyelid Gecko and the Turkmenistan Eyelid Gecko.

The Leopard Gecko’s Latin name is Eublepharis macularius. Five subspecies have been identified, but not all herpetologists are in agreement on this. Most of the Leopard Geckos in the pet trade today came from animals originally collected in Pakistan.

Comparison with other Geckos

The Leopard Gecko and its relatives are the only geckos to have movable eyelids. The genus name means “true eyelid” while the species name translates as “spotted”. In all other geckos, the eyelids are fused into an immobile, transparent cap known as the spectacle. As in snakes, the eyes thus remain permanently open.

Also unique is the Leopard Gecko’s lack of adhesive foot pads, known as lamellae. Lamellae enable other geckos to perform such feats as climbing glass and running upside-down on ceilings. Herpetologists believe that these microscopically-grooved pads would not be effective in the dry, dusty places inhabited by Leopard Geckos.

Leopard Gecko ears are unusual in their alignment…at the right angle, you can look in one ear and see right through to the other side of the gecko’s head!

Range and Habitat

The Leopard Gecko is found in Southeastern Afghanistan, Western India, Pakistan, Iraq, and Iran, where it frequents semi-deserts and arid grasslands.

Leopard Gecko habitat is characterized by sandy-gravel, rocks, hard clay, coarse grasses and drought-resistant shrubs (please see photo). The lizard’s bumpy, spotted skin, which stands out so well in captivity, provides excellent camouflage against the substrates of its natural habitat. These are harsh lands, where food and water may be unavailable for months on end…perhaps the Leopard Gecko’s adaptation to such extremes explains its hardiness in captivity.

Widely fluctuating temperatures are typical. In the Peshawar region of Pakistan, for example, winter temperatures average 41-59 F but soar to 104 F or more in the summer. While captive Leopard Geckos generally remain active year round, wild specimens become dormant during the colder months.

Diet and Enemies

Leopard Geckos prey upon a wide variety of invertebrates, and store fat within the tail. Included in their diet are some quite formidable creatures, such as large spiders, scorpions and centipedes. Smaller lizards and perhaps nestling rodents may be taken on occasion.

Foxes, snakes, monitor lizards, owls and the large invertebrates mentioned above are the Leopard Gecko’s most likely predators, but field research is lacking.

Conservation

Almost nothing is known of the status of Leopard Gecko populations; political instability and military conflicts are likely to prevent field research for the foreseeable future.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Reptile and Amphibian Shelters – Choosing the Best Location

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 06 Aug 2010 13:24:20 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. While the importance of providing a shelter for pet herps is well-known, the question of where to place the shelter is often not given adequate consideration. In both zoo exhibits and home terrariums, I have noticed that animals sometimes refuse to enter perfectly suitable shelters. Studies carried out at the University of Sydney have recently shed some light on the factors that influence shelter choice in lizards.

Safety vs. Warmth

Writing in the journal Behavioral Ecology (21:72-77), researchers report that Velvet Geckos (Oedura leseurii) avoided shelters that carried the scent of their predators (in this case, Broad-Headed and Small-Eyed Snakes). The geckos refused to enter the shelters despite the fact that they represented the only warm areas within the enclosures, choosing instead to hide in cold shelters. When the cold shelters were also scented, the geckos remained in the open. The experiment was repeated in the geckos’ natural habitat, with the same results.

Practical Applications for Pet Owners

While this behavior might seem to “make sense” to us, I think it is important to bear in mind that hiding from predators and thermo-regulating are key aspects of reptile and amphibian survival. Remaining in the open is very stressful for most species, and may lead to illness and death. Similarly, the failure to maintain the correct body temperature is a direct threat to their survival.

Other Considerations

While we do not (hopefully!) house our pets with their predators, other factors may be at work. For example, I have found that many animals will remain in a shelter even if the temperature within is too hot or too cold – safety trumping thermo-regulation in these cases.

Also, dominant tank-mates may prevent others from using shelters or basking sites, or cause them to remain within shelters for extended periods (thereby affecting feeding and basking behavior). This can occur even in the absence of actual aggression – the mere presence of a dominant animal is often enough to influence the behavior of other animals.

Where highly territorial, visually-oriented animals are concerned, a dominant individual can cause stress just by being within the view of another animal, even if housed in a different terrarium. I have observed this to occur among both chameleons and monitor lizards.

Research such as this highlights the importance of always looking beyond the obvious when observing our pets (and, of course, of reading research reports!). Please write in with your own thoughts and questions.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Introducing the Nosy Be Gecko (or Spearpoint Leaf-Tailed Gecko) – Part 2

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 13:39:11 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Please see Part 1 of this article for information on an interesting newcomer to the pet trade, the Nosy Be Gecko (Uroplatus ebenaui). Today we’ll take a look at some related species and the gecko family in general.

Other Geckos in the Genus Uroplatus

All 12 species that have been assigned to the genus Uroplatus, collectively known as “Leaf-Tailed Geckos”, are endemic to Madagascar and considered threatened due to extensive deforestation. Cryptic colors, nocturnal ways and arboreal habitats render it likely that other species await discovery…hopefully before they disappear forever.

The largest Leaf-Tailed Gecko, Uroplatus fimbriatus, reaches 7.6 inches in length and gapes widely to display its bright red tongue when disturbed. More than one neophyte zookeeper has called in a veterinarian to examine the apparently injured tongue upon first observing this display!

Leaf-Tailed Geckos bear an uncanny resemblance to dead leaves or bark, with the tails of some species sporting holes and irregularities that seem to have been chewed by insects. They also adopt poses and movements that heighten their camouflaging coloration and body form – the Nosy Be Gecko, for example, can hang head down from a branch in near-perfect mimicry of a dead leaf.

The eyelids of Leaf-Tailed Geckos are fused to form a protective, immobile covering known as the brille. Leaf-tailed Geckos use their tongues to clean the brille.

Gecko Diversity

The 1,180+ species of geckos described thus far comprise the second largest lizard family, the Gekkonidae (the largest family, the Scincidae, or skinks, boasts over 1,200 members). New species are being discovered with regularity – several just this month (June, 2010, please see article below). Geckos are found throughout much of the world, and reach their greatest diversity in desert, tropical and sub-tropical habitats.

Geckos range in size from the various Shaerodactylus species, some of which are full grown at 1.2 inches in length, to the New Caledonian Giant Gecko (Rhacodactylus leachianus), a bulky creature that tops out at nearly 15 inches. Other species, now considered extinct but which some folks believe may still survive in Madagascar, reached 24 inches in length.

People-Oriented Geckos

A number of small species, known collectively as “House Geckos” (Hemidactylus spp.), follow human habitation and are widely transplanted. Several, including the Mediterranean House Gecko, H. turcicus, (please see photo) are well-established in the Southeastern USA. The nocturnal House Geckos, invariably more common in and around homes than in more “natural” surroundings, ambush moths and beetles drawn to lights.

Because of their easy accessibility and interesting ways, House Geckos have been studied in detail and have revealed much of interest concerning territoriality and other types of behavior.

Introducing the Nosy Be Gecko (aka Spearpoint Leaf-tailed Gecko), Part 1

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 13:48:06 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Nosy Be Gecko (Uroplatus ebenaui) is one of the most interesting recent newcomers to the pet trade. However, its unique appearance should not prompt you into a quick purchase, as we have a great deal yet to learn about its care. Today I’d like to review its natural history, as therein lay the key to its proper captive care. In Part II of this article we’ll look at some of \this lizard’s interesting relatives.

Description

The Nosy Be Gecko is tan, gray, orange-brown or dark brown in color, with a reticulating dark pattern, skin projections and a short, pointed tail; the over-all appearance is remarkably similar to that of a decaying leaf.

At 2-4 inches in length, it is the smallest member of its genus.

Range

This lizard is known only from the Nosy Be region of northeastern Madagascar.

Habitat

The Nosy Be Gecko is restricted to cool, humid rainforests. It is entirely arboreal and nocturnal and, unlike most lizards, prefers temperatures of 68-75F.

Status in the Wild

This species is largely unstudied, but is believed threatened due to extensive deforestation within its extremely limited natural range. It is listed on CITES Appendix II.

Reproduction

Little is known of the Nosy Be Gecko’s reproductive biology in the wild. In captivity, females lay multiple clutches of 2-4 eggs during the spring and summer.

Despite being persistently arboreal, females descend to the ground and bury the eggs in moist earth or below leaf litter. Mature eggs can be seen through the abdominal skin of the females. The eggs hatch in 3-6 months, depending upon temperature, and the young reach adult size in approximately 7 months.

Diet

Nosy Be Geckos prey upon moths, caterpillars, spiders, beetles, tree crickets and other invertebrates. Related species take ripe fruit, sap, nectar and snails, but these items are usually refused by captive Nosy Be Geckos.

Defense

When threatened, the Nosy Be Gecko hangs head-down by the rear feet, further enhancing its resemblance to a dead leaf.

That Reptile Blog » Geckos

Day Gecko Care – Terrarium Set Up and the Best Supplies

Setting up the Terrarium

Further Reading

Malayan and Kuhl’s Flying Geckos – Breeding and Care

Description

Range and Habitat

Captive Care

Further Reading

Breeding Leopard Geckos

Distinguishing the Sexes

Breeding Age

“Almost Spontaneous” Breeding

Conditioning Breeders: Cooling Off Period

Conditioning Breeders: Warmth and Diet

Pairing and Breeding

Further Reading

New Test for Cryptosporidiosis, an Incurable Disease of Snakes and Lizards

Crypto and the Pet Trade

Crypto in Zoo Animals and Wild Populations

The Importance of the New Test

Caring for Crypto-Positive Reptiles

Further Reading

Leopard Geckos in the Wild – the Natural History of a Popular Pet

Classification

Comparison with other Geckos

Range and Habitat

Diet and Enemies

Conservation

Further Reading

Reptile and Amphibian Shelters – Choosing the Best Location

Safety vs. Warmth

Practical Applications for Pet Owners

Other Considerations

Further Reading

Introducing the Nosy Be Gecko (or Spearpoint Leaf-Tailed Gecko) – Part 2

Other Geckos in the Genus Uroplatus

Gecko Diversity

People-Oriented Geckos

Further Reading

Introducing the Nosy Be Gecko (aka Spearpoint Leaf-tailed Gecko), Part 1

Description

Range

Habitat

Status in the Wild

Reproduction

Diet

Defense

Further Reading