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Chameleons as Pets – 5 Things You Should Know Before Getting a Chameleon

Frank Indiviglio — Wed, 26 Dec 2012 16:32:00 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Perhaps the most fantastically-bizarre of all lizards, chameleons have long been popular in private and public collections. However, the world’s 195 species, ranging in size from the 1.5 inch-long Pygmy Leaf Chameleons (Rhampholeon spp.) to the 30 inch Oustalet’s Chameleon (Furcifer oustaleti), often prove to be difficult captives. Although great strides have been made, chameleon husbandry remains challenging, if intriguing. The following points, drawn from notes taken during my years working at the Bronx Zoo, are useful to consider before embarking on a chameleon-keeping venture.

Chameleons Do Not Like Company – Human or Otherwise!

Wolverines and Tasmanian Devils are more sociable than the average chameleon! Highly territorial, both males and females will fight among themselves and with the opposite sex. Pairs may get along in large, heavily-planted enclosures, but they must be watched closely.

Chameleons abhor handling, and are best considered as animals to observe only. Don’t worry, for when properly kept, chameleons will reward you by exhibiting fascinating behaviors…but this will not be the case if you disturb them with unnecessary handling!

Chameleons are Easily Stressed, but Often Appear Content

Here we come to one of the most important and misunderstood concepts in chameleon husbandry. Chameleons are slow-moving and instinctively freeze or drop to the ground when threatened. They are easy to grab and often remain in place when deposited on an arm or shoulder, leading us to believe that all is well.

Some individuals may react to handling by changing color or gaping, but they do not snap, thrash about, run off, or drop their tails as do many other lizards. Inexperienced owners often misinterpret the lack of vigorous protest as an “acceptance” of handling. However, be assured that your pet’s stress hormones are surging, and that this will have a deleterious effect on its immune system and health.

Being relatively inactive, chameleons may seem blissfully unaware of what is going on outside their cages. Again, their reliance on camouflage limits overt signs of agitation. However, they have keen eyesight and miss nothing; indeed, the mere sight of a dominant individual can stress others, even if the animals are housed separately.

Chameleons Need a Highly-Varied Diet

No chameleon will thrive on a diet comprised of 2-3 insect species…even if all food items are nutrient-loaded and powdered with supplements. I’ve done well by relying heavily upon wild-caught invertebrates. Moths, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, tree crickets, katydids, harvestmen, earwigs, “smooth” caterpillars and a variety of others are accepted (far more enthusiastically than crickets!) by all. Please see these articles for tips on collecting insects.

Useful commercially-available insects include roaches, crickets, butterworms, super mealworms, caliworms, silkworms, hornworms and locusts. Feeders should be provided a healthful diet before use. Canned grasshoppers, snails, and silkworms may be offered via feeding tongs. Please see this article for further information.

Chameleons Need Large, Well-Ventilated Cages

Despite being relatively sedentary, chameleons need lots of space and plentiful sight barriers, and are stressed by small, bare cages. Specific requirements vary by species and individual, but be prepared for surprises. I’ve had Parson’s and Oustalet’s Chameleons that remained ill at ease until relocated to room-sized exhibits. In fact, some chameleon fanciers dedicate entire rooms of their homes to a pair, or even an individual. Ample climbing space and ventilation is also critical to their well-being.

Custom-made cages, commercial screen terrariums and modified bird aviaries, stocked with branches, vines and live plants, are among the best options for captive chameleons. Heavy plant cover will put your chameleon at ease, and you’ll see more of interest than would be the case in a bare enclosure.

Avoid Wild-Caught Chameleons

I remember well the days when only wild-caught chameleons were available in the USA. Collection and shipment wrecked havoc on the delicate creatures, and even with the best of care and veterinary attention, losses were high. Today, certain popular species, including the Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis), are still collected more often than bred.

Wild-caught chameleons are usually plagued by a variety of health concerns, including dehydration, depressed immune systems, parasites, retained eggs, malnutrition and shipment-related injuries. Please see this article, and be sure to purchase only captive-bred animals.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Senegal Chameleon Diet Study – Nutrition Influences Prey Choice

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 07 May 2012 18:16:47 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis) has long been common in the pet trade, yet there remain significant roadblocks to longevity and breeding. I recently re-read a 1990 study on prey choice in this species. I then considered it in light of newer research that established a link between Vitamin D levels and chameleon basking behavior. I believe both contain important findings that may be applicable to many species.

“What, grasshoppers again”!

In the study that examined prey choice in Senegal Chameleons (J. of Herpetology: V.24, N.4: p.383), different groups of chameleons were fed solely on either Long-Horned Grasshoppers or House Crickets. Over a period of several days, those lizards feeding upon crickets showed a strong preference for grasshoppers, and those on grasshopper-only diets favored crickets.

I have also observed this in other chameleon species under my care at the Bronx Zoo, and in a variety of reptiles and amphibians. As long as the species is acceptable, novel prey usually causes a very strong feeding response. Indeed, zookeepers and hobbyists commonly say that captive herps “become bored” with crickets, mealworms and other staples.

A Link between Diet and Basking Behavior

The researchers conducting the 1990 prey-choice study theorized that reptiles may be able to track their nutrient intake, and then select prey accordingly…in essence balancing their diet. Fast forward to 2011, when some very significant (and largely over-looked, it seems!) chameleon-related information was published in the journal Physiological and Biochemical Zoology (May-June, 2011).

Panther Chameleons (Furcifer pardalis) were found to regulate sun exposure in accordance with their Vitamin D3 levels. Chameleons maintained on diets that provided high levels of D3 reduced their basking time (Vitamin D3 is manufactured in the skin, in the presence of sunlight). Those individuals that were not provided with dietary D3 increased their exposure to sunlight.

Vitamin D receptors in the brain are believed responsible for monitoring the level of this vital nutrient. Interestingly, analysis revealed that the chameleons were as “effective as mathematically possible” in achieving optimal sun exposure! Seems that the authors of the 1990 study were correct in their belief that some reptiles can monitor nutrient levels (please see this article for more info).

Practical Advice for Chameleon Keepers

What can chameleon-keepers take away from this? Well, we still do not know precisely what constitutes a perfect diet for any species. That being said, I and others have had good success in keeping a number of chameleons on highly-varied diets, especially those that include appropriate wild invertebrates collected from pesticide-free areas (please see this article for diet suggestions).

The fact that chameleons have evolved a finely-tuned means of evaluating nutrient levels indicates that we must pay close attention to the diets of those under our care. Indeed, nutritional problems continue to plague private and public chameleon collections, and we need to do far more research in this area. Please keep an eye on the literature, and write in with your thoughts and experiences.

Senegal Chameleons as Pets

Senegal Chameleons can make hardy, long-lived captives, but only if their very specific husbandry needs are met. In additional to dietary concerns, stress related to poorly-designed enclosures, egg-retention, dehydration and other problems remain far too common. Please see the article below for further in formation, and be sure to write in if you have questions.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Senegal Chameleons and Related Species – Common Health Problems

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 19:55:17 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. The Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis) occupies a unique position in the pet trade. Inexpensive and widely available, it can be a hearty captive if given proper care. However, this West African native is more easily collected than bred, so most that become available are wild-caught. Collection and shipment, hard on any creature, is particularly difficult for chameleons to endure. As a result, a variety of health problems are commonly seen in newly-acquired Senegal Chameleons.

In some ways, the Senegal Chameleon situation reminds me of that faced by Green Anoles in the 1960’s and ‘70’s. Because they were interesting and cheap, these fascinating little lizards were often purchased without much forethought. It took many years, and untold numbers of dead anoles, before we understood their specific husbandry needs.

The following information can be applied to most chameleons; I’ve focused on Senegals because they are often chosen by novice keepers (Note: the Smooth Chameleon, formerly considered a Senegal subspecies, is now classified as C. laevigatus).

Proper Care

As with any reptile, a proper environment and diet is essential to good health; lacking this, no amount of veterinary attention will be of long-term use. Chameleons are particularly demanding in their requirements.

Senegal Chameleons need a highly-varied diet, large, airy enclosures maintained at 74-78 F (with a basking spot of 85-90 F), humidity levels of 60-90% and exposure to UVB radiation. Please see the articles below and write me for additional information.

Stress

Chameleons are notably stress-prone. The mere presence of a dominant individual, even if separately caged, can cause others in the room to cease feeding and become ill. So it’s easy to imagine the effects of cramming hundreds of chameleons into holding and shipping containers.

Stress weakens the immune system, and therefore is a consideration in all medical conditions. Bacterial, parasitic and other infections will worsen as the immune system falters. As wild-caught lizards invariably harbor parasites, fecal tests are essential for all Senegal Chameleons that have not been captive-bred.

Regarding stress, please remember that chameleons are pets to be observed, but not handled. Because they do not run off when approached, people are sometimes misled into believing that chameleons “enjoy” handling. Nothing could be further from the truth!

Egg Retention (Dystocia)

Under ideal conditions, female Senegal Chameleons are prolific breeders, producing 20-70 eggs twice yearly. However, gravid females that are collected and shipped overseas usually fare poorly. Typically arriving at their new homes in a stressed and dehydrated condition, females should be watched carefully and examined by a veterinarian if they appear to be carrying eggs. Gravid females may appear thin, yet heavy in the abdomen, and usually exhibit restless behavior (searching for a nest site) or listlessness.

Calcium deficiencies, a concern in any gravid reptile, are common among wild-caught female Senegal Chameleons. Depressed calcium levels will prevent the female from expelling her eggs; veterinary intervention is essential if death is to be prevented.

The lack of a suitable nesting site can also cause a female to retain her eggs, even if she is in good health. Please write in for further information.

Dehydration

The skin of dehydrated chameleons will have a “puckered”/wrinkled appearance, and shedding will be difficult. Dried skin, leftover from previous sheds, may be evident on the feet and toes.

Most new arrivals will be dehydrated, but the problem is also common in long-term captives. Senegal Chameleons generally drink only when water is dripped or misted into their terrariums. In some cases, dripping water must be continually available if the animal is to remain hydrated. Low humidity levels will add to the problem, and likely increase your pet’s drinking water requirements.

Shipping-Related Injuries

Rubbed snouts, skin abrasions and abscesses are common among imported lizards of all species. Due to their unique structure, chameleon eyes are particularly sensitive. Check carefully for tears and bits of debris that may have become lodged around the eyes.

Nutritional Concerns

Senegal Chameleons that adjust to captivity often feed ravenously, misleading owners into thinking that all is well. It’s important to understand that they need a highly-varied diet; crickets and mealworms alone, even if supplemented, are not sufficient. Please see the article below for suggested diets.

Metabolic Bone Disease, evidenced by malformed jaws and limbs in its later stages, is a common concern. Calcium, Vitamin D3 and UVB needs are inter-related – all three must be viewed as a single concept. Recently, for example, chameleons have been found to adjust their basking behavior in accordance with dietary levels of D3; please see the article below and write me for further information.

There’s some evidence that Vitamin A deficiencies are involved in several of the health issues faced by pet chameleons and other reptiles. Unfortunately, we know little about their actual requirements. A varied diet will help; please write in for supplement suggestions.

Please check out my posts on Twitterand Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Chameleons as Pets – an Overview of their Natural History and Captive Care

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 15:43:39 +0000

Chameleons, the most unique of all lizards, are truly marvelous creatures to know and care for. In the past, I’ve written about Veiled, Dwarf and Senegal Chameleons, and related topics (please see articles below). Today I’d like to discuss some general principals of chameleon care.

The following information can be applied to most available Chameleons; however, details will vary. Please write in for specific information on individual species.

Natural History

To date, 186 Chameleon species have been described (Family Chamaeleonidae). They range in size from the 1.5 inch-long Pygmy Leaf Chameleons (Rhampholeon spp.) to the Oustalet’s Chameleon (Furcifer oustaleti), which may top 30 inches in length.

Unique characteristics include a tongue that may exceed the animal’s length, mobile eyes, a “swaying” walk that mimics wind-ruffled leaves, joined toes that form grasping “hands”, a prehensile tail and remarkable color-changing abilities. Color changes are mainly used to communicate, but also serve as camouflage.

Chameleons reach their greatest diversity in Madagascar, where over 80 species may be found. Mainland Africa is home to 100+ species, while the Middle East, Europe and India each support 2 species. Veiled and Jackson’s Chameleons have been introduced to the USA and Mexico.

Often though of as rainforest animals, Chameleons have actually adapted to life in a wide variety of habitats, including dry woodlands, desert oasis, montane forests (where they endure snow) and even city parks.

Chameleons as Pets

Chameleons are extremely aware of their surroundings and easily startled by sudden movements and other threats. They are best considered as animals to observe, and should not be handled unless absolutely necessary.

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Ample space and ventilation are key factors in successfully keeping Chameleons. As most are arboreal, height is an important consideration in cage design.

Youngsters and dwarf species may be raised in large aquariums. Commercial screen cages and terrarium top “add-ons” are ideal for indoor maintenance, and light enough to be moved outdoors as well.

Large individuals are best housed in custom cages or homemade enclosures. In suitable climates, outdoor enclosures, including pre-fabricated bird aviaries, may be fashioned into “Chameleon mansions”.

Numerous branches and vines should be provided. Sturdy live and/or artificial plants (i.e. Pothos, Philodendron and Spider Plants) will provide sight barriers and a feeling of security. Chameleons rarely fare well in bare enclosures.

Substrate

A mix of cypress mulch and sphagnum moss is ideal for rainforest species. Sand can be used for the desert-dwelling Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus).

Although impactions due to swallowed substrate are rare in arboreal species, food is best offered in large bowls or via feeding tongs.

Light

Chameleons will not thrive without a source of Ultra-Violet B light. Natural sunlight is best, but be aware that glass and plastic filter out UVB rays, and that fatal overheating can occur very quickly.

If a florescent bulb is used (the Zoo Med 10.0 UVB Bulb is ideal), be sure that your pet can bask within 6-12 inches of it. Mercury vapor and halogen bulbs broadcast UVB over greater distances, and provide beneficial UVA radiation as well. UVA, while not essential, may help to regulate activity levels and breeding.

Interestingly, Panther Chameleons (Furcifer pardalis) have been shown to modify their basking behavior in response to the Vitamin D3 content of their food; please see this article for details.

Heat

Ideal air temperatures vary widely among the different species, with many preferring cooler temperatures than might be expected. An ambient temperature in the mid 70’s, with a basking spot of 88-90 F, and a dip to 65-68 F at night, will suit most.

Large enclosures will simplify the establishment of a thermal gradient (areas of different temperatures). Thermal gradients, critical to good health, allow lizards to regulate their body temperature by moving between hot and cooler areas.

Incandescent bulbs should be used to maintain temperatures. A ceramic heater or red/black reptile “night bulb” can be employed after dark.

Humidity

Humidity requirements vary by species. Most terrariums should be misted twice daily; commercial reptile foggers are useful for rainforest species.

Companions

Chameleons can be described as “rabidly antisocial”. Both sexes are territorial and will fight savagely. Pairs sometimes co-exist in large, heavily-planted enclosures, but their behavior should be monitored closely.

The sight of a dominant animal can stress others, even if the animals are housed separately. One animal per enclosure, with opaque dividers between cages, is the general rule.

Feeding

A highly-varied diet is essential if you are to have success in keeping Chameleons. Most fare best when fed on a near-daily basis.

Whenever possible, I rely upon wild-caught invertebrates during the warmer months and save crickets and other commercial insects for winter use. During my years with the Bronx Zoo, large insect traps were maintained for our insectivorous herps and birds. The Bug Napper Insect Trap is a smaller version of these, and will help you to collect moths and other flying insects. Moths, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, tree crickets, katydids, harvestmen, earwigs, “smooth” caterpillars and a variety of other invertebrates should be offered (learn to identify stinging, biting and toxic species). Chameleons generally react very “enthusiastically” to novel foods. Please see these articles on collecting feeder insects for more ideas.

In winter, the main portion of the diet should be a mix of roaches, crickets, butterworms, super mealworms, waxworms, caliworms and commercially-available caterpillars (silkworms, hornworms). Feeder insects should be provided a healthful diet for several days before use. Canned grasshoppers, snails and silkworms are often accepted from feeding tongs, and can be an important means of providing dietary variety.

Parson’s, Panther, Oustalet’s and other large species seem to do well when offered a pink mouse every month or so. Do not use furred mice, as ingested hair may lead to impactions.

The Veiled Chameleon includes vegetation in its diet; other species may also take plants on occasion. Favorites include dandelion flowers and leaves, Ficus, romaine, and Nasturtium/Hibiscus flowers.

Essential food supplements include Zoo Med ReptiCalcium with D3 or a similar product (most meals) and a vitamin/mineral supplement such as Reptivite 2-3 times weekly.

Please see this article for more on Chameleon diets.

Chameleons rarely accept water from a bowl. Most will lap water that is sprayed onto foliage, and a few will drink directly from a hose (obviously this option is best employed in screen-bottomed outdoor cages!). A perforated container on the cage top that allows water to drip over plants is a useful option.

New Test for Cryptosporidiosis, an Incurable Disease of Snakes and Lizards

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 19:38:49 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. A decade or so ago, Cryptosporidiosis became recognized as a major concern in captive snake and lizard collections. Caused by a one-celled parasite known as Cryptosporidium varanii, the disease remains incurable to this day. At the Bronx Zoo, where I worked at the time, tests showed that many snakes already in our collection, along with wild and pet reptiles, might be harboring Cryptosporidium. But diagnosis was difficult and errors were common, resulting in the institution of expensive and time-consuming isolation protocols for new and sick animals. So I was happy to learn of a newly devised test that ensures early, accurate diagnosis of Cryptosporidium…it will surely prove useful to pet keepers and zoos alike.

Crypto and the Pet Trade

A number of factors render Cryptosporidiosis as a major concern, including the popularity of reptile pets and the fact that the parasite can be transferred to people. While not often of major concern to healthy adults, Crypto, as it came to be known, is a danger to immune-compromised individuals (please see article below). A recent survey of 672 pets revealed that 1 in 6 of the Corn Snakes and 1 in 12 of the Leopard Geckos tested harbored Crypto in one form or another.

Crypto is the most common cause of a Leopard Gecko ailment popularly known as “Stick Tail Disease”. The parasite dwells in the small intestine, where it prevents proper absorption of food; various bacteria to take hold as well, due perhaps to damage inflicted on the intestinal walls. Loose stools and weakness follow, and the gecko’s thick tail (which stores fat) wastes away to a mere “stick”. Crypto has caused similar problems in Gila monsters, monitors, chameleons and other species.

Crypto is passed in the feces (in a form known as an oocyst) and can remain alive for years until a host is found. Oocysts are difficult to kill other than by steam, undiluted ammonia and certain disinfectants not generally available to hobbyists.

Crypto in Zoo Animals and Wild Populations

Declining populations of many snakes and lizards makes zoo-based breeding programs all-the-more vital. However, Crypto is incurable; the many zoo animals that now harbor it must be isolated, and cannot be bred as the young will likely be infected as well.

The Importance of the New Test

The first Crypto tests, based on fecal samples, were unreliable because the parasite often appeared sporadically, or in minute populations, and so was easy to miss. Also, related parasites infect the foods eaten by snakes and lizards, and distinguishing between the species of Cryptosporidium present was nearly impossible.

Researchers at the University of Veterinary Medicine in Vienna have recently devised a DNA-based test that quickly and accurately reveals the presence of Cryptosporidium parasites (please see article below). The test also allows one to determine whether the parasite is present in the snake or lizard, or entered via the animal’s food.

Caring for Crypto-Positive Reptiles

Early detection is important because there are medications, such as Paromomycin, that can keep Crypto populations low enough to allow the infected reptile to survive. However, treatment is only effective if instituted within a certain time frame.

Crypto-positive reptiles cannot be cured at this time, and will require lifelong treatment and special care. Dr. Kevin Wright of the Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital has written an excellent paper on this subject (please see below); please read it to learn more about caring for such animals and preventing Crypto transmission.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook . Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Chameleon Diets – The Best Foods for Pet Chameleons

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 02 Sep 2011 16:26:44 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Most chameleons will eagerly accept crickets and mealworms. However, even if you use reptile vitamin/mineral supplements, a diet comprised of 2-3 insect species is not suitable for chameleons – or for hardly any reptile or amphibian. Your lizards will survive on such fare for awhile, but will inevitably develop nutritional disorders and die “long before their time”. To avoid this, please read the following article before purchasing a chameleon; the information provided is applicable to Parson’s, Panther, Veiled and all other popularly-kept species.

Variety, an Essential Consideration

A varied diet is essential if you are to have success in keeping, much less breeding, chameleons long-term. The few field studies that have been done indicate that free-living chameleons consume dozens of invertebrate species.

Always strive to provide your pets with as many different invertebrates as is possible. This can be a time-consuming, albeit interesting, effort, so please consider this point carefully before purchasing any insectivorous reptile.

Collecting Insects and other Invertebrates

I’ve done well by relying upon wild-caught invertebrates during the warmer months and saving crickets, waxworms, roaches and other commercially-available insects for winter use. Any efforts towards this end are useful – for example, beetles or moths plucked from a window screen several times each week will go a long way in ensuring your pet’s good health.

Collecting insects is actually quite interesting and a great deal of fun. I’ve written a number of articles on insect collecting techniques and insect traps. Please check them out when you have a moment – you may discover a new hobby in the process!

The Zoo Med Bug Napper Insect Trap simplifies the collecting of moths and other flying insects.

Wild Invertebrates Suitable for Chameleons?

Chameleons refuse little in the way of live invertebrates. In fact, their enthusiastic reactions to new prey items may surprise you; I notice a real difference in their responses to, for example, moths as opposed to crickets.

I provide moths, butterflies, hover-flies, beetles and their grubs, sowbugs, millipedes, grasshoppers, tree crickets, field crickets, katydids, harvestmen, earwigs, inch-worms and other “smooth” caterpillars and a variety of other easily-collected species. Most chameleons seem to favor arboreal and flying insects over grubs and other terrestrial forms; many refuse earthworms.

Avoid using “hairy” caterpillars, spiders, large ants and other invertebrates that are able to bite or sting. A good invertebrate field guide (i.e. the Audubon or Peterson series) will prove indispensible. Brightly-colored insects are often toxic, as are fireflies.

Do not collect during times when your area is being sprayed for mosquito control. For more on pesticide and related concerns, please see this article.

Commercially-Reared Insects

You should allow insects purchased for chameleons to themselves feed upon a healthful diet for several days, in order to increase their nutritional value (this process is often termed “gut loading”). Please see the following articles to learn about the proper care of feeder insects:

Cricket Care

Mealworm Care

Roach Care

When wild-caught insects are unavailable, the main portion of the diet should not be crickets, but rather a mix of roaches, crickets, butterworms, super mealworms and waxworms. Caterpillars such as silkworms and tomato hornworms are available via internet dealers, and should be offered regularly.

I use mealworms and super mealworms sparingly, and select only newly-molted (white) individuals. Mealworm pupae may be accepted when offered on tongs.

I powder most store-bought insects with supplements, alternating among Reptivite with D3, ReptiCalcium and Reptocal. I do not use supplements when feeding wild-caught invertebrates.

Canned Insects

Canned Insects such as grasshoppers, snails and silkworms are accepted from feeding tongs by many chameleons, and can be an important means of providing dietary variety when wild-caught insects are not available.

Mice as a Calcium Source

A diet rich in mice appears to cause eye, kidney and liver problems in many insectivorous reptiles. Chameleons are aggressive predators, and certainly take the occasional rodent in the wild, but research has shown that insects and other invertebrates form the vast majority of their natural diet.

Parson’s, Panther and Oustalet’s chameleons, and other large species, seem to do well when offered a pink mouse every month or so. Do not use fuzzy or adult mice – chameleons swallow their food alive, and may be injured by a rodent’s sharp teeth. Hair may also lead to potentially fatal impactions.

Other Considerations

Many hobbyists find that it is easier to provide a varied diet to Dwarf and Leaf Chameleons than to larger species. Due to their small size, most will accept a wide variety of ants, flies, midges, millipedes and other tiny invertebrates that are very common in most environments.

As far as we known, chameleons require exposure to UVB radiation in order to manufacture Vitamin D3 in their skin and thus utilize dietary calcium. Be sure to provide a high output UVB or mercury vapor bulb.

The Veiled Chameleon, a hardy (in chameleon terms!) favorite, includes a surprising amount of vegetation in its diet.

Please see the articles below for more information on these topics.

Please write in with your questions and comments.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Chameleon Notes – Rare Belalanda Chameleon; Pet Choices; New Research

Frank Indiviglio — Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:17:16 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Chameleons are one of those reptiles that fascinate both herpers and “regular people” alike. How can they not – from tiny, ground-dwelling Dwarf Chameleons, Bradypodium spp. to huge, brilliantly-colored tree dwellers such as Parson’s Chameleon, Calumma parsonii (please see photos of both), the world’s 175+ species are wonderfully bizarre in both habits and appearance. Today I’ll provide a pet care and research update, and am also happy to report the discovery of another population (the third) of one of the world’s rarest reptiles – the Belalanda Chameleon, Furcifer belalandensis.

The Edge of Extinction?

Until recently, the gorgeous, emerald-green Belalanda Chameleon was know to exist in only 2 tiny populations, both limited to a few trees within 2 villages in Madagascar. This month (March, 2011), a third population, also within a village, was discovered by researchers from Great Britain’s Durrell Institute of Conservation and Ecology.

While some believe that other individuals may thrive in more natural situations, it must be said that Madagascar’s habitats have been well studied by herpetologists, and its woodlands are subject to the world’s highest rate of deforestation. The Belalanda Chameleon, one of at least 75 species endemic to Madagascar (found nowhere else on earth) may indeed be holding on for dear life in only 3 tiny, disturbed habitats.

The IUCN classifies the Belalanda Chameleon as Critically Endangered and it is listed on Appendix II of Cites. Photos are available on the Arkive Website.

Madagascar’s Other Endangered Species

Chameleons are not the only Madagascan animals facing uncertain futures. The island’s tortoises, rare, colorful and coveted by collectors, are all highly endangered…this article reports that as many as 1,000 may be poached each week!

Lemurs, gorgeously-colored Mantella Frogs, plants, insects and scores of creatures are all in dire straits. Fortunately, Mantellas and certain others breed well in captivity, but many species do not.

Chameleon Research

Recent studies of chameleons have challenged a few basic assumptions that have long been held about reptiles. For example, we now know that certain chameleons will alter their color and behavior differently in response to specific predators…snakes and birds, for example, will not elicit the same response. We had long believed that temperature and stress alone determined color change. Please see this article for details.

Chameleons will also modify their basking behavior in response to the Vitamin D levels in their diet (and I thought we had UVB needs all figured out!); please see this article to read more.

Chameleons as Pets

Chameleons are much desired but often troublesome additions to both zoo and private collections. For those with experience, however, there are a few that often do well if strict attention is paid their needs.

The Veiled Chameleon, Chamaeleo calyptratus, hails from a very harsh environment and seems to adapt well to change; it is an ideal “first chameleon”. Due to their minuscule size, Dwarf Chameleons, Bradypodium spp., can more easily be accommodated by most hobbyists (chameleons do not thrive when crowded) than larger species. Their dietary needs, however, are quite specific.

Please see the articles below for detailson the care and natural history of Veiled and Dwarf Chameleons.

The Dwarf Chameleons – Notes on Captive Care and Natural History

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 07:46:01 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. This article is one of a series in which I will provide a brief introduction to both popular and rarely-kept amphibians, reptiles and invertebrates. I’ll cover such topics as unique habits in the wild, common mistakes or concerns in captive care, pet pros and cons, little-known husbandry tips and so forth. Detailed care articles will follow…until then, I would enjoy receiving your questions and comments. Today we’ll take a look at the Dwarf Chameleons (Brachypodion spp.).

Small and Hardy

South Africa’s Dwarf Chameleons seem, at first glance, to be an excellent choice for the aspiring chameleon keeper. Indeed, their small size (most top out at 7 inches or so) is an important factor – many of the larger chameleons need a room-sized enclosure if they are to thrive. All are now protected by the government of South Africa, but the Natal Midlands Dwarf Chameleon (Bradypodium thamnobates) and the Cape Dwarf Chameleon (B. pumilum) are regularly bred by hobbyists.

Also, Dwarf Chameleons hail from extremely harsh environments, and so are far hardier than most of their relatives (or, for that matter, most lizards). In the Southeastern USA, they can be often be kept outdoors year-round, and the best breeding results have been obtained under these conditions. Several species hibernate in the wild and are unaffected by short-term exposure to freezing temperatures; on the other hand, most are stressed above 85 F or so.

A Caution Regarding Feeding

Adult Dwarf Chameleons are just the right size to take crickets and mealworms, but they will not thrive for long on such a diet. Dietary variety is critical to their health and well-being, as they are adapted to prey on a wide variety of invertebrates.

The ZooMed Bug Napper Insect Trap is an invaluable aid in collecting flying insects such as moths, beetles and flies – the Chameleons reactions to these will leave no doubt as to their value in improving your pets’ quality of life.

Caterpillars, Snowy Tree crickets, Orange-spotted Roaches, Field Crickets Termites, Grasshoppers, Katydids, Sow Bugs and a wide variety of other invertebrates will also be consumed with great enthusiasm. Houseflies are, in my opinion, vital when rearing young Dwarf Chameleons.

Be sure to feed a nutritious diet to any Domestic Crickets that are utilized. During periods when crickets comprise the bulk of the diet, powder most meals with supplements, alternating among Reptivite with D3, ReptiCalcium and ReptoCal. I do not use supplements when relying upon wild-caught invertebrates.

Interesting Facts and the Care of the Senegal Chameleon

Frank Indiviglio — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:20:09 +0000

Today we’ll take another look at those oddest of lizards, the chameleons (Family Chamaeleonidae), followed by some tips on the care of the Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo senegalensis).

Eyes

The cone shaped torrents that enclose the chameleon’s eyes are actually made up of fused, overlapping sets of eye lids. By covering all but the eye’s pupil, they offer excellent protection to this most important organ.

Chameleon eyes contain far more visual cells than do our own, and can be rotated 180 degrees. Uniquely among all animals, the eyes can focus either independently (on different objects) or together.

Vision, Learning and Hunting Accuracy

When a chameleon focuses both eyes on an insect, it hits its target 9 out of 10 times. In laboratory situations, accuracy falls to 0 when 1 eye is covered. However, by the second day hunting accuracy rises to 20%. On day 4, the one-eyed hunters successfully capture insects on 50% of their attempts.

Senses of Hearing and Smell

Chameleons do not hear well …like snakes, they detect air vibrations and low-pitched sounds only.

The Jacobsen’s organ, which allows many other reptiles to “smell” chemical particles in the air, is vestigial (much reduced) in chameleons. It is therefore assumed that they do not detect most odors.

Distribution

Madagascar is the center of chameleon diversity, with over 75 species, many endemic, living there. Neighboring Africa, despite being vastly larger, boasts only 100 or so species. Only 2 species make their homes in the Middle East, 2 in Europe and 2 in India and Sri Lanka.

At least 2 species of chameleon have established feral populations in foreign habitats. The veiled chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus) thrives in Florida, Hawaii and Mexico, while the Jackson’s chameleon (C. jacksonii) has been breeding on Hawaii since the 1970’s and has recently been discovered in California.

The Senegal Chameleon, Chamaeleo senegalensis

Hailing from tropical West Africa (Senegal to Cameroon), this dark-spotted, tan to olive chameleon inhabits brushy savannas and forest edges. Often abundant and easy to collect, it has long been a pet trade staple.

Some Cautions

Despite its long history in captivity, the Senegal does not breed regularly, and presents some problems as a pet. Wild caught specimens should be avoided, as they are usually heavily parasitized and afflicted with stress related ailments.

Captive Environment

Senegal Chameleons need quite, heavily planted screen cages or an outdoor aviary , abundant UVB radiation and should be kept well-hydrated via frequent spraying or the use of a mister. An ambient temperature of 76F with a basking site of 85F and a nighttime dip to 69-70F suits them well.

Breeding

If you are lucky enough to obtain a breeding pair, you’ll have your hands full…healthy females may lay 20-70 eggs at a time, twice each year! Incubation time averages 6 months at 77 F, and sexual maturity may be reached by 5 months of age.

The Smooth Chameleon

The range of East Africa’s Smooth Chameleon overlaps that of the Senegal in Cameroon. Formerly classified as a subspecies, the smooth chameleon has now been given full species status as Chamaeleo laevigata.

Chameleon Color Change: Camouflage and Advertising at the Same Time?

Frank Indiviglio — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 15:05:54 +0000

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. In direct contrast to popularly-held theories, researchers at Australia’s University of Melbourne believe that the need to rapidly signal other chameleons, and not the need to hide from predators, has driven the evolution of the amazing color-changing abilities possessed by these lizards. In a sense, the primary function of color change is to render the animals more conspicuous – the opposite of being well-camouflaged!

Camouflage

However, the need to camouflage still exerts an influence. By being able to affect color changes in a mere fraction of a second, the lizards lessen the chance that predators will notice them.

Earlier research at the University of Melbourne has also revealed that at least 1 species does endeavor to “match” the background upon which in rests. In fact, Smith’s dwarf chameleon actually alters the degree of color change it exhibits in response to the type of predator it faces (please see article below).

Other Possibilities: My Experience

I have noticed that, unlike most animals that display (male birds, for example, often sing for hours on end, even if when other birds are not visible), chameleons only flash messages when in the presence of possible rivals or mates. This would also seem to limit their exposure to predators.

Chameleons also display an incredible range of subtle color variations, most not visible to the human eye which, I believe, also assists in “getting their message across” as quickly as possible.

Further Reading

To learn more about new research regarding color change and predator avoidance, please see my article Chameleons and Camouflage.

Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

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Chameleon Color Change: Camouflage and Advertising at the Same Time?

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