Carotenoids

Carotenoids are pigments that occur in plants. Animals, as far as is known, cannot manufacture carotenoids but rather must obtain them through their diet. 

Carotenoids benefit the immune system by acting as antioxidants, function in the reproductive and other systems, and are believed partially responsible for the health benefits enjoyed by people who regularly consume fruits and vegetables.  We know little of their role in reptile and amphibian health, but many zoo nutritionists believe them to be important.

Diets Tested

Three cricket diets were examined in the Zoo Biology study: wheat/wheat germ, fish food flakes and fresh fruits/vegetables.

As might be expected, crickets that were fed fruits and vegetables proved to have the highest carotenoid levels.

The fish flake diet resulted in intermediate carotenoid levels, with the lowest levels being seen in crickets feeding upon wheat germ.

These results held true for all 3 cricket species tested.

Cricket Species

Three species of crickets were used in the study.

The Domestic, Brown or House Cricket, Acheta domesticus, the species most commonly used for pet food in the USA, is native to southwestern Asia but is now established nearly worldwide.

The Tropical or Decorated House Cricket, Gryllodes sigillatus, is not commonly seen in the trade, but is worth more attention.  Hailing from Southern Europe, Africa and Asia, it is now established in Florida (surprise, surprise!), southeastern Texas, Louisiana and several nearby states.  The Tropical House Cricket bears tiny wings and therefore contains less indigestible matter than other species. Like the other popular crickets, it breeds year-round when kept warm.

The Two-Spotted or Mediterranean Field Cricket, Gryllus bimaculatus, resembles G. veletis and some other American Field Crickets, but is larger and “meatier” (please see photo). However, it is equipped with powerful mandibles, so caution is warranted. Commonly used by European and Asian keepers, it is not often seen in the US. Japanese keepers informed me that the males fight savagely, but a single male can accommodate many females. It has also been reported as feral in Florida and Texas.

In the Zoo Biology study, Mediterranean Field Crickets achieved higher carotenoid concentrations (on all diets) than did Domestic or House Crickets.  No species retained carotenoids for very long, so the timing of feeding is important, and bears further study.

Other Crickets and Grasshoppers

The world’s 20,000+ species of crickets, katydids, grasshoppers, locusts and their relatives (order Orthoptera) provide exciting opportunities for those interested in herp nutrition.  Many of the 1,000+ species native to the USA are easy to collect and rear.  Breeding is not as simple, especially for temperate species that need a period of dormancy, but well-worth investigating.  Please see this article for further information on collecting and rearing native species, and write me with your ideas and experiences. 

Some Orthopterans, such as the various wetas (please see photo), are among the world’s heaviest insects, and seem capable of being more herp predator than herp food!

In response to a virus that threatened House Cricket supplies, commercial breeders have begun working with the Jamaican House Cricket, Gryllus assimilis.  Adults are equipped with formidable mandibles capable of breaking human skin and injuring various pets.  Their use requires careful consideration…please see the article below and write in for further information. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.  

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Tropical House Crickets in Florida 

House Cricket Care and Breeding

Collecting and Rearing Grasshoppers 

Jamaican Field Crickets: one keeper’s experiences

African Field Cricket image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Danny Steaven

veggies image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by mhaller1979

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Crickets and Carotenoids – Study Examines Cricket Nutrient Levels

The post Crickets and Carotenoids – Study Examines Cricket Nutrient Levels appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Natural History

Amphipod diversity is astounding…over 7,000 species have been identified, and experts concede that they have no idea of the actual number in existence. 

Found from pole to pole, Amphipods reach their greatest abundance in colder oceans.  Most live in marine environments, but a number have colonized fresh water and land; of the known terrestrial species, 45% dwell in caves or other subterranean environments.  They range in size from 0.8 to 1.6 inches long, and may be omnivorous, carnivorous or herbivorous.

Amphipods in Captive Diets

Amphipods are readily accepted by newts of all types, Mexican Axolotls, many turtles, and aquatic frogs such as African and Dwarf Clawed Frogs and Surinam Toads.  Salamander larvae and carnivorous tadpoles relish smaller species. 

They can also be offered to terrestrial salamanders and frogs; in these cases, confining the Amphipods to a bowl is usually the best feeding method.  The Zoo Med Turtle Pier makes an ideal platform on which to present Amphipods to Fire-Bellied Toads and other semi-aquatic frogs; please see this article for further information. 

I have also fed Amphipods to sunfishes, perch and other native and tropical species.  The eager reactions exhibited by many fishes and herps are hard to describe, but very different than that given to their usual food items.

Precautions: Marine Species and Parasites

I avoid using marine Amphipods (or fish, for that matter) as a dietary staple for captive herps, focusing instead upon freshwater species.  However, I’ve not had any problems using either as a supplement to regular diets. 

The possibility of transferring parasites from wild-caught fresh water Amphipods has been raised (marine species would not likely be a concern in this regard), but I have not experienced this in my own or zoo collections.  If you are concerned about parasites, consider captive-bred cultures or methylene blue pre-treatments; please write in for further information.

Collecting Amphipods

Fresh water and marine Amphipods are most easily collected by pulling a seine or hand net through shoreline aquatic plants or seaweed. I’ve also occasionally taken larger species in minnow traps baited with fish. 

Beached seaweed at the high tide line is usually home to huge populations of terrestrial Amphipods collectively known as Rock Hoppers or Sand Hoppers (Taritrus spp.). Eel Grass beds along the USA’s eastern coast support Amphipods that resemble this unique marine plant in shape and color. One, Gammarus mucronatus, is large and quite interesting, and provided me with a great introduction to marine aquarium keeping decades ago.

Gammarus fasciatus, a fresh water Amphipod that reaches ½ inch or so in length, is sometimes common on fish farms.  I believe this to be the species that I found in tropical fish shipments when I worked for an importer years ago.  I saw the same or a similar Amphipod on fish farms in Florida and in aquatic plant greenhouses in NY. If you have access to such places, look into the possibility of doing some collecting, as G. fasciatus is hardy and easy to breed (please see below).

Keeping and Breeding Amphipods

Fresh-water Amphipods may be kept in a well-lit aquarium stocked with Elodea, algae, Java Moss and other aquatic vegetation. A corner filter will provide adequate filtration and aeration; strong currents should be avoided. Water quality may be managed as for tropical fishes (please write in for further information).  A temperature range of 60-75 F suits most. 

While dietary specialists exist, those Amphipods I’ve kept proved to have easily-satisfied appetites. Fish food flakes, shrimp pellets, spirulina disks, boiled kale and bits of fish were all accepted.  A healthy growth of algae appears to be important to their survival as well.

Female Amphipods carry their 10-50 eggs in a brood pouch; depending upon the species, 4-6, or perhaps more, clutches may be produced each year.

Marine species can be kept as above; please write in if you need information on establishing a salt-water aquarium.

Amphipods as “Pets”

Amphipods are active, interesting creatures, and I thoroughly enjoy observing their behaviors.  When established in an aquarium, they also perform useful scavenging services. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself keeping them for “their own sake”, and please be sure to write in to share your experiences.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Amphipods as Salamander Food (Caudata.org forum)

Keeping and Breeding Sowbugs

Amphipod Diversity

Fresh Water Amphipod Natural History

Gammarus roeselii image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Michael Manas
Talitrus saltator image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Arnold Paul

Pariambus typicus image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Hans Hillewaert

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Amphipods (Scuds, Side-Swimmers) as Food for Amphibians and Reptiles

The post Amphipods (Scuds, Side-Swimmers) as Food for Amphibians and Reptiles appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

A Most Formidable Insect

Famed entomologist E.O. Wilson has demonstrated that ants “rule” many habitats, driving evolution and other processes to a degree that is hard to imagine.  What little work I’ve done with them has convinced me that they are, at the very least, extremely resourceful creatures. When working with Leaf Cutter Ants (Atta cephalotes) at the Bronx Zoo, I observed a dramatic increase in egg production shortly after empty nesting chambers were added to the colony’s enclosure – the workers somehow communicated to the queen that more space was available, and more bodies were needed. This likely holds true for other species as well – killing a few dozen workers will not reduce ant numbers but instead may set up a call for more eggs!

Boric Acid

Toxins that are taken to the nest and shared among the colony can be effective against Pharaoh Ants (Monomorium pharaonis, the most common indoor ant in many locales) and other species. You can create your own ant poison by mixing 2 tablespoons of Boric Acid to 6 tablespoons of sugar, and dissolved the paste in a quart of water; this mixture will also kill crickets and roaches. As with pesticides, however, there is a chance that your insectivorous pets may consume ants that have fed upon boric acid.

Diatomaceous Earth

I much prefer diatomaceous earth, the crushed remains of prehistoric diatoms (algae-like organisms), to pesticides and boric acid. I can’t imagine how people came up with the idea to harvest this unusual resource, but it has long been used for a variety of purposes; amazingly, the famed White Cliffs of Dover are comprised largely of fossilized diatoms (please see photo).

Aquarists know diatomaceous earth as an excellent filtering medium that is used in specially-designed diatom filters. A slightly different product, marketed as pet/food-grade diatomaceous earth is utilized by dog and cat owners to combat internal and external parasites.

Diatomaceous earth is a desiccant, in that it kills insects by drawing moisture from their bodies. I believe it also clogs the spiracles, and so may interfere with respiration. Of course, an ant colony can send workers to replace those that are killed, but this seems not to happen for very long once diatomaceous earth is used. Ants lay down scent trails for others to follow…I imagine that if workers do not return from foraging trips (i.e. if they encounter diatomaceous earth and are killed), then that particular route is abandoned in time. Diatomaceous earth will also kill roaches and crickets, but in my experience molasses traps are more effective…more on this technique in the future.

Note: the product used in filters is different from that marketed for use on dogs and cats; only pet grade diatomaceous earth should be used for ant control.

Favorable Qualities

I particularly like the fact that diatomaceous earth can be used around kitchen sinks and other areas frequented by people. Also, pet grade diatomaceous earth can be consumed by dogs and cats without ill effects (check label for any precautions re amounts consumed). 

When pushed into cracks along walls, it will remain in place for years if kept dry. In fact, I’ve noticed that diatomaceous earth barriers remain intact even when splashed with a bit of water. Diatomaceous earth is not easily dispersed by air movement, and tends to remain stationary even as people walk nearby.

Safety Concerns

Care should be taken that this product is not inhaled or allowed near one’s eyes. People with certain respiratory conditions should not use diatomaceous earth.  Please consult your doctor or write in for references to experts if you have any questions.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Beyond Pesticides: a great resource for those interested in alternative pest control methods

Controlling Ants without Toxins: a wide variety of ideas

Toxin-Free Carpenter Ant Control

White Cliffs of Dover image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by http://www.flickr.com/people/fanny/

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Ant Control for Reptile and Amphibian Owners – Diatomaceous Earth

The post Ant Control for Reptile and Amphibian Owners – Diatomaceous Earth appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

“What, grasshoppers again”!

In the study that examined prey choice in Senegal Chameleons (J. of Herpetology: V.24, N.4: p.383), different groups of chameleons were fed solely on either Long-Horned Grasshoppers or House Crickets. Over a period of several days, those lizards feeding upon crickets showed a strong preference for grasshoppers, and those on grasshopper-only diets favored crickets.

I have also observed this in other chameleon species under my care at the Bronx Zoo, and in a variety of reptiles and amphibians. As long as the species is acceptable, novel prey usually causes a very strong feeding response. Indeed, zookeepers and hobbyists commonly say that captive herps “become bored” with crickets, mealworms and other staples.

A Link between Diet and Basking Behavior

The researchers conducting the 1990 prey-choice study theorized that reptiles may be able to track their nutrient intake, and then select prey accordingly…in essence balancing their diet. Fast forward to 2011, when some very significant (and largely over-looked, it seems!) chameleon-related information was published in the journal Physiological and Biochemical Zoology (May-June, 2011). 

Panther Chameleons (Furcifer pardalis) were found to regulate sun exposure in accordance with their Vitamin D3 levels. Chameleons maintained on diets that provided high levels of D3 reduced their basking time (Vitamin D3 is manufactured in the skin, in the presence of sunlight). Those individuals that were not provided with dietary D3 increased their exposure to sunlight. 

Vitamin D receptors in the brain are believed responsible for monitoring the level of this vital nutrient. Interestingly, analysis revealed that the chameleons were as “effective as mathematically possible” in achieving optimal sun exposure! Seems that the authors of the 1990 study were correct in their belief that some reptiles can monitor nutrient levels (please see this article for more info).

Practical Advice for Chameleon Keepers

What can chameleon-keepers take away from this? Well, we still do not know precisely what constitutes a perfect diet for any species. That being said, I and others have had good success in keeping a number of chameleons on highly-varied diets, especially those that include appropriate wild invertebrates collected from pesticide-free areas (please see this article for diet suggestions). 

The fact that chameleons have evolved a finely-tuned means of evaluating nutrient levels indicates that we must pay close attention to the diets of those under our care. Indeed, nutritional problems continue to plague private and public chameleon collections, and we need to do far more research in this area. Please keep an eye on the literature, and write in with your thoughts and experiences.

Senegal Chameleons as Pets

Senegal Chameleons can make hardy, long-lived captives, but only if their very specific husbandry needs are met. In additional to dietary concerns, stress related to poorly-designed enclosures, egg-retention, dehydration and other problems remain far too common. Please see the article below for further in formation, and be sure to write in if you have questions.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Interesting articles, thesis dissertations and grants (chameleons and other lizards)
Senegal Chameleons: Common Health Concerns

Senegal Chameleon Care

Long horned Grasshopper image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Jazz

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Senegal Chameleon Diet Study – Nutrition Influences Prey Choice

The post Senegal Chameleon Diet Study – Nutrition Influences Prey Choice appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Pesticide Problems

House Crickets, roaches and other escaped “feeder insects” can be problematic in private collections. In the damp basements favored by amphibian keepers, Spotted Camel Crickets (Ceuthophilus maculatus, please see photo) may also set up housekeeping. These unusual creatures are very interesting in their own right, and I’ve featured them, and a large African relative, in several exhibits. However, most folks find their size, appearance and jumping abilities quite unsettling (please see comments in the article linked below – insect fans will find them very interesting!).

Crickets usually succumb to appropriate pesticides, but roaches often develop immunities. In any event, sprayed pesticides are dangerous to both people and their animal collections. Powders and baits also have downsides. Insects travel widely, and while doing so may track powder-based pesticides into terrariums or across supplies (roaches moving between cages have been implicated in the spread of Salmonella in several zoo-based studies). Those that enter enclosures may be consumed by insectivorous pets, raising the danger of secondary poisoning.

Using Molasses Traps

A molasses trap is simply a jar or other container partially filled with molasses and leaned against a wall or other surface that provides access. Molasses’ scent apparently carries far, and is irresistible to many insects; certainly it draws crickets and roaches very quickly. I’ve even sat in the dark in various zoo holding areas to watch the effects of a molasses trap, and was amazed at how rapidly insects responded. Those that enter the trap sink into the molasses and perish in “La Brea Tar Pit style”.

If a rough wall or other climbable surface is not handy, simply wrap a rag around the molasses container so that insects are able to scale its sides. Armed only with this simple technique, I’ve rid quite sizable exhibits, holding rooms and basements of established roach and cricket populations.

Glue Traps

Molasses can also be used to lure roaches and crickets onto glue traps, but most remain alive for some time. Killing the trapped insects, as I preferred to do when glue traps were in use, is very time consuming. Molasses jars eliminate this concern.

Ants

Interestingly, ants (at least Pharaoh Ants and other species I’ve had experience with) seem easily able to evade death-by-molasses. I’ve watched them hang onto the sides of a jar and eat their fill, then simply back up, turn around, and head off to distribute the treat among their colony-mates! I’m sure that someone more imaginative than I can tweak the technique and render it effective against ants…please write in if you have any thoughts on this and I’ll be sure to share your ideas with other readers.

Observing and Collecting Native Insects

Molasses, especially if mixed with beer, will attract a wide variety of beetles, moths, bees, wasps and other insects. Entomologists have long used it to sample wild populations, occasionally discovering a new species in the process. If allowed access to the bait, as described above, the insects will perish. If you wish to collect living insects, install a cloth or fine screen barrier above the bait. 

I’ve painted molasses on tree trunks, and was usually rewarded with an array of interesting visitors, including (in NY) several long-horned beetles and moths that were new to me. Please see the Mississippi Entomological Museum article below for detailed (detailed as in “which type of Keebler cookie is best for specific ant species”!) bait and trapping ideas.

The Zoo Med Bug Napper is a light-based trap that can be used to collect moths, beetles, crane flies and other flying insects.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Environmentally-Friendly Insect Control

Insect Traps and Baits (tips for collectors)

Camel Cricket Invasions

Fly trap image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Downtowngal

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Pet-Safe Cricket and Roach Control for Reptile and Amphibian Owners

The post Pet-Safe Cricket and Roach Control for Reptile and Amphibian Owners appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

There is an endless supply of useful live foods, so please post your ideas and observations. 

Earthworms, Red Wigglers, Nightcrawlers (Lumbricus terrestris, others)

I’d like to see earthworms replace crickets as dietary staples for those species that accept them.  Highly nutritious, they are readily taken by most amphibians and turtles, some lizards, insectivorous snakes, and tarantulas.  Most reproduce rapidly when kept in a screen-covered plastic container with alternating layers of dead leaves and moist topsoil; they can also be stored under refrigeration.  Keep earthworms at 70 F or below if possible (certain species tolerate warmer temperatures).

Earthworms should be provided a diet of leaf litter, bread crumbs, corn meal, fish flakes and reptile calcium powder.   

Blackworms (Lumbriculus variegatus)

These nutritious earthworm relatives are accepted by most newts, frogs, and turtles.  Blackworms will live for weeks in a refrigerator if their water is changed daily. 

Terrestrial Isopods, Sowbugs, Potato Bugs (Order Isopoda)  

These crustaceans are a good source of Calcium and likely contain nutrients not found in insects.  They are also useful scavengers, consuming dead insects, feces, and shed skins.  Isopods may be purchased or collected beneath rocks and leaf litter. 

A breeding colony can be established in an aquarium provisioned with moist coconut husk and topsoil.  Fish flakes, leaf litter, coffee grounds and vegetable peels provide a good diet.

Aquatic species may be seined from fresh or marine waters.

Houseflies (Muscidae) and Phoenixor Calci-worms (Hermetia illucens)

Housefly cultures, including flightless strains, are commercially available. Both larvae and adults are widely accepted, and are especially favored by tree frogs and arboreal lizards.  They are especially valuable for small creatures that are usually restricted to “cricket-only” diets.

Calci-worms, the larvae of Black Soldier Flies, are soft-bodied and contain an ideal calcium: phosphorus profile.  They do well at room temperatures, and will feed on moist fish flakes and vegetable peels.

House Crickets (Acheta domestica)

Crickets should be fed a healthful diet prior to being used; cricket pellets, tropical fish flakes, dry milk and reptile calcium powder works well.  Oranges, apples or gel cubes should be provided as a water source.

Screen-covered aquariums or storage bins provisioned with egg crate or paper towel rolls make good cricket enclosures.  Fungal diseases quickly take hold in poorly-ventilated quarters.

Adult crickets have powerful mouthparts, and some of their body-parts are indigestible; use the smallest acceptable size (please see article below).

Mealworms and Super (King) Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor, Zophobus morio)

Mealworms grow quickly at 76-80 F, but normal room temperatures also suffice.  They should be kept in wheat bran, powdered baby food and tropical fish food flakes, with banana skins as a moisture source.

I prefer to use only newly-molted (white) mealworms or pupae as food, especially for amphibians.  Mealworm beetles are also taken by many creatures.  Mealworm-rich diets have been linked to intestinal blockages.  Please write in for details.

Waxworms (Galleria mellonella)

These unusual caterpillars reside in beehives. They are shipped in sawdust, which must be removed before use, and should be refrigerated until needed.  Due to a high fat content (58%) and thick exoskeleton, they are best used sparingly.

Orange-Spotted Roaches (Blaptica dubia)

This insect has a soft exoskeleton and rarely flies.  They can be housed in bare-bottomed aquariums or sweater boxes stocked with egg crate or paper towel rolls.  Fine “insect screening” will prevent the nymphs, which are born alive, from escaping.

Breeding and growth is most rapid at higher temperatures, but 68-95 F is tolerated.  A diet of fish food flakes, powdered baby food, fruits, vegetables and reptile calcium powder will ensure a nutritious meal for your pets.  Cricket cubes can be used as a water source.  Please write in for information on other species.

Fruit Flies (Drosophila melanogaster and relatives)

Fruit Flies, including flightless strains, are widely available; cultures are usually supplied with food and instructions.

Red and Confused Flour Beetle Larvae, Tribolium castaneum and T. confusum

Flour Beetle colonies are available commercially; dog biscuits or dried baby food will meet their food and moisture needs.  The larvae are an excellent but little-used food for Poison Frogs, spiderlings and other tiny pets.

Springtails (Collembolla sp.)

Springtails are minute, primitive insects that can be collected from beneath leaf litter or purchased.  They feed upon decaying vegetables and fish flakes, and breed readily. 

Wild-Caught Invertebrates

Wild-caught invertebrates can impart important variety to captive diets.  Learn to identify stinging and toxic species, and avoid collecting in areas where pesticides are used. 

Swinging through tall grass with a net will yield a variety of nutritious aphids, grasshoppers, caterpillars and other “field plankton”.  The Zoo Med Bug Napper will help snare moths and beetles.  Please write and see articles below in for collecting tips.

Other Insects

Grasshoppers, silkworms, hornworms, praying mantis egg cases and other invertebrates are commercially available.  Even if used only on occasion, they can make a big difference in your pets’ health and longevity.

Brine Shrimp, Daphnia, Mosquito Larvae

These tiny creatures are relished by salamander larvae, newts, aquatic frogs, and carnivorous tadpoles.  They should be allowed to feed on a commercial Brine Shrimp diets and algae tabs  being offered to your pets.

Mosquito larvae transform into adults rapidly, so feed only as many as will be consumed immediately.  As a child, believing that I had discovered “fresh water Brine Shrimp”, I once filled my house with hundreds of hungry mosquitoes!

Crayfish

Crayfishes contain high concentrations of calcium and Vitamin E, and store well in damp moss under refrigeration.  Unless they are soft (recently molted), the claws should be removed.  I used crayfishes without incident for many years at the Bronx Zoo, but please write in if you are concerned about parasite transmission and wish to pre-treat them.

Fish

Fishes boast an ideal calcium: phosphorous ratio.  Pond-raised minnows and shiners are highly nutritious, guppies, platys, mollies and others may also be offered.  Wild fishes can be collected via seine or minnow trap (watch for spines borne by catfishes, sunfishes and others).

Goldfish-only diets have been implicated in health problems.  Please write in for further information.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Collecting Feeder Insects

Video: Breeding Fruit Flies

Cricket Care

Poplar Hawk Moth image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Possum
Orange Spotted Roach image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Dragus
Poplar Hawk Moth image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Possum

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Live Food Care – Reptile, Amphibian, Tarantula and Scorpion Diets

The post Live Food Care – Reptile, Amphibian, Tarantula and Scorpion Diets appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Primary Concerns

Poor ventilation, crowded conditions and high humidity are the most common reasons for cricket colony failures. These three factors are related to one another, and will be discussed below.

Natural History

Domestic Crickets are native to southwestern Asia. Escapees have established populations throughout the world, usually in close association with people. Their taxonomic order, Orthoptera, contains over 20,000 grasshoppers, katydids and related insects.

The USA is home to over 120 cricket species; my favorites, the bizarre Mole Crickets, tunnel below-ground with spade-like front legs (please see photo).  Over 3,000 species have been described worldwide. New Zealand’s “super cricket”, the Giant Weta, is the world’s heaviest insect…at 70 grams, it weighs as much as a House Sparrow! 

Housing

Always choose the largest possible enclosure for your colony. Crickets excrete copious waste products, which are quickly colonized by harmful fungi and bacteria. In addition, cramped quarters allow for the buildup of moisture released via respiration, which leads to fungal diseases. Crowding also increases cannibalism.

Plastic storage bins or garbage cans make the best enclosures for cricket colonies. Most of the plastic from the bin’s sides and top should be cut away and replaced with aluminum mosquito screening (adults chew through plastic screening). The screening can be secured with aquarium silicone or duct tape, which should be applied to the outside of the enclosure.  Ample cross-ventilation helps dissipate moisture; top-only ventilation will limit the number of crickets that can be kept. 

Screen-topped aquariums and commercial cricket cages can also be used, but they will support fewer crickets than ventilated storage containers.

Substrate

The bottom of the enclosure should be left bare to facilitate cleaning.  Cardboard egg crates, paper towel rolls and crumpled newspaper should be used to increase the available surface area.

Heat and Humidity

Cricket appetites increase as temperatures rise. To limit waste production, large groups should be kept at 70-72 F. They will feed at these temperatures but their metabolisms will not be racing. 

Warmer temperatures, up to 90 F, are acceptable. However, the enclosure will be harder to keep clean and dry, and fungal/bacterial growth will speed. Chirping (a/k/a noise!) also increases with temperature.

Humidity should be kept low. Never spray the enclosure, as dampness can cause massive die-offs.

Feeding

In order to improve their dietary value, crickets should be provided nutritious foods for at least 2 days prior to being offered to pets.  A mixture of commercial cricket pellets, tropical fish flakes, dry milk and powdered reptile calcium supplements works well.  Food should be placed in jar lids or shallow bowls.

Oranges, apples, kale, yams, carrots and other produce should be offered, but care must be taken to limit mold growth; use small amounts until you can judge how much will be consumed before spoilage.

This cricket diet will ensure a nutritious meal for your pets, but cat chow, rabbit pellets and other foods have also been used with success.  Low protein diets have been linked to increased cannibalism.

Water

Crickets need to drink often, but will drown in standing water.  Gravel, sponges or cotton placed in water bowls will prevent this, but these quickly become fouled. Commercial gel cubes or water pillows are preferable.

Another option is to use fruits and vegetables, which also provide valuable nutrients, as a water source. Oranges are particularly good in this regard. If orange pieces dry out quickly, try cutting several “entry holes” into an intact orange to slow the drying process.

Daily Care and Maintenance

Daily chores include checking for mold and damp substrates and removing dead crickets and droppings that have accumulated in food bowls. 

The enclosure should be emptied and cleaned weekly. To empty, shake the egg crate or other substrate (to dislodge living crickets) and discard. Then tilt the cricket bin one side up and add some fresh newspaper…most of the living crickets will climb onto this. These crickets can be retained and put back into the clean container. Place the remaining debris in a plastic bag and freeze, so as to euthanize injured individuals.  Avoid transferring dead or injured crickets to a clean enclosure.

The cricket bin should then be cleaned with warm water and bleach (1 cup/gallon) and allowed to dry thoroughly.

Breeding

Domestic Crickets breed readily, with the best results being had at 82-90 F. Females will deposit their eggs in bowls stocked with 2 inches of moist sand or earth. These should be removed often, as adults love snacking on their own eggs. Hatching occurs in 1-2 weeks at 85-90 F, and sexual maturity is reached in 2-3 months.

Health Considerations

Some people who work with crickets develop allergies over time.  A disposable face mask may be useful; please consult your doctor for details.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable. I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Information

Rearing Grasshoppers and Locusts

Mate Guarding in Field Crickets

Photos of Common US Species

Mole Crickets

Domestic Cricket image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by G U Tolkeihn
Mole Cricket image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Sharadpunita

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Cricket Care and Breeding – Keeping Your Live Food Alive

The post Cricket Care and Breeding – Keeping Your Live Food Alive appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Foreign Mantids in the USA

The 2 most-commonly encountered mantids (or mantises) in the USA are both introduced (not native).  The largest and most widespread is the Chinese Mantid, Tenodera aridifolia sinensis, brought here in 1896 to battle insect pests.  The European or Praying Mantid, Mantis religiosa, arrived as a stowaway around the same time.  They and the world’s other 2,400+ species, consume vast numbers of beneficial and harmful insects…in fact, a single Chinese Mantid may consume 20,000 or more insects in its lifetime!

Purchasing and Using Mantid Egg Cases

Millions of Chinese Mantid egg cases are sold annually as a form of biological insect control, but herp keepers have not caught on to their value as a feeder insect.  Each egg case will produce 100-400 tiny, soft-bodied hatchlings.  Please check this supplier’s website for further information.

The egg cases are quite tough, and need only a daily spraying as care.  Best of all, they can be stored in the frig until needed (in the wild, egg cases are produced in the fall, and remain dormant until spring).  If not used immediately, the young mantids will feed upon one another, or can be supplied with fruit flies or aphids.  Even an occasional feeding of mantids can be of great value to the health of your smaller herps.

Collecting Your Own Egg Cases

You can also collect your own egg cases (usually legal, but check local laws). Begin searching in September (in the USA) and continue throughout the winter.  Check fields, weedy city lots and overgrown roadside vegetation…they are usually deposited on tall, stout grasses or shrubs, generally 3-5 feet above ground.  The egg cases are well-camouflaged (deer mice and other animals love to eat them) but once you get the right “search image” you’ll find them to be surprisingly abundant in many habitats.

Observing and Keeping Mantids

Allowing a child to watch a mantid egg case hatch will be a thrilling experience for all involved (if you plan to release the insects, do not bring the case indoors until early spring; the young will hatch in mid-winter at room temperatures).  I did so just last week, and can assure you that my 3-year-old naturalist cousin had a great time and learned a wonderful lesson (please see photos of him holding an egg case and releasing the mantids). 

Mantids are also fascinating captives in their own right.  I’ve kept and bred a number of species, and am glad to see they are gaining favor with hobbyists here in the US, and in zoo collections. Please see the article below for details.

Other Insect Alternatives

Lacewings and other tiny insects that are sold to nurseries and gardeners are also potentially useful herp foods.  Please check out those offered by the Beneficial Insect Company, and look for my articles on other species in the future.  Please also see the article below to learn more about collecting small, native insects.  In the meantime, I’d appreciate hearing your ideas and experiences.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook. Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Collecting Leaf Litter Invertebrates

Mantid Natural History

Keeping Mantids in Captivity

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Hatching Praying Mantid Egg Cases to Feed Tiny Amphibians and Invertebrates

The post Hatching Praying Mantid Egg Cases to Feed Tiny Amphibians and Invertebrates appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Natural History

Grasshoppers, crickets, locusts and katydids are classified in the Order Orthoptera.  Over 20,000 species, inhabiting environments ranging from deserts to mountain tops, have been described.  The USA is home to 1,000+ species. 

Many grasshoppers sport a fantastic array of colors and shapes; some are barely visible to the naked eye, while others, such as New Guinea’s Phyllophora grandis, top 5 inches in length (please see photo of a Hooded Grasshopper).

Several species are important crop pests.  Swarms of Africa’s Desert Locust, Schistocerca gregaria, may exceed 50 billion in number and reach densities of 200 million per square mile (please see video below).  A swarm of this size weighs an estimated 70,000 tons, and each day consumes as much food as does the combined populations of NYC, London, Paris and Los Angeles!  In 1949, a locust swarm in Oregon and California cleared 3,000 square miles of every speck of vegetation.

Locusts (Short-Horned Grasshoppers)

Large size and tremendous breeding potential render locusts a great food source for larger herps, spiders and scorpions. Nymphs can be fed to nearly any insectivorous pet.

The Migratory Locust, Locusta migratoria, is the only species (other than the House Cricket) to be bred commercially. It is readily available in theUK, but difficult to find in the USA (biological supply houses and private breeders are the best sources).  

Locusts can be reared in aquariums, but do better in large wire enclosures, as air flow and low humidity (below 30%) are critical to their health.  Provide as much crawling and climbing space as possible, and maintain a temperature of 88-95 F. They will eat nearly any type of green produce or grass, along with wheat bran…providing a varied diet will ensure a nutritious meal for your pets.

Females will deposit up to 200 eggs in containers containing 5-6 inches of moist sand and peat moss; shallow containers will impede egg-laying.  The egg-containers are best removed to a separate enclosure for hatching and rearing.  The incubation period averages 2-3 weeks, and the nymphs reach adult size in approximately 2 months.

North American Grasshoppers and Locusts

I’ve raised Red-Legged Grasshoppers and Carolina Locusts and have found them to be generalists that will accept most any type of native grass or store-bought produce. Their appetites are truly amazing…it’s easy to imagine the havoc a swarm can bring down on farmland.  I place grasshopper food in water-filled jars (stuffed with cotton) so that it remains fresh.

Unfortunately, the eggs of most US natives require a period of cold temperatures if they are to hatch.  I’ve had some luck refrigerating eggs at 38 F for 4 weeks, but the technique needs fine-tuning.  Collecting (in pesticide-free areas) via sweeping a net through tall grass is more effective than breeding.  If you collect in the spring, you’ll have plenty of nymphs that are easy to rear to the size you need.

Hatari Invertebrates stocks an ever-changing array of live grasshoppers, crickets and katydids that can be purchased and used as breeding stock (8 species currently listed).  The eggs of species native to the extreme southern USA may hatch without a cooling-off period. 

Please note that Lubber Grasshoppersand most other colorful species contain toxins and should not be used as a food item.

Katydids and Tree Crickets

Katydids and tree crickets usually stay high above ground, but may sometimes be collected around outdoor lights or by “foliage-beating” (please see article below).  Most are specific as to food choice and egg-deposition sites, and are best used shortly after being collected.

These nocturnal songsters lack the hard exoskeletons of grasshoppers, and are a great food for arboreal herps and those without strong jaws. Treefrogs, anoles, chameleons and many geckos become, for lack of a better phrase, “very excited” when offered katydids.

Interesting note: Adding 40 to the number of chirps made by a Snowy Tree Cricket in 15 seconds will tell you the temperature in degrees F!

Native Crickets

Camel Crickets, Field Crickets, Mole Crickets and other native and introduced species contain different nutrients than House Crickets, and are often easy to collect.

Most need humid retreats, and readily accept fish food flakes and vegetables.  One species that I collect in NYC matures at the size of a 10-day-old House Cricket, and is a valuable addition to the diets of smaller animals.   Adult Field Crickets have very strong jaws and should be used with caution.

Canned Grasshoppers

Canned grasshoppers are an excellent alternative to live insects for certain pets.  Exoterra’s Grasshoppers are large and fully winged; Zoo Med’s Grasshoppers are wingless and a bit smaller.

Grasshoppers as Pets

I’ve had some fantastic experiences keeping grasshoppers and their relatives in zoos and my own collection.  From carnivorous Katydids to huge, colony-dwelling Cave Crickets, they have never failed to surprise me with interesting behaviors.  Please write in if you’d like to more information on this fascinating hobby.

Please check out my posts on Twitter http://twitter.com/#!/findiviglio and Facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000972624553.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time, 

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Video: Billions of Locusts swarming (Congo)

Collecting Katydids and Tree Crickets

Orthoptera Natural History and Photos

Hooded Grasshopper image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by J.M. Garg
Migratory Locust image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by http://www.tiermotive.de/
Katydid image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Alessandro Zummo

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Reptile and Amphibian Foods – Breeding and Rearing Grasshoppers and Locusts

The post Reptile and Amphibian Foods – Breeding and Rearing Grasshoppers and Locusts appeared first on That Reptile Blog.