Predicting Scorpion Births

In the wild, some Emperor Scorpion populations breed seasonally, while others may reproduce year-round.Captives can mate and give birth during any month of the year. Further complicating our ability to predict births is the fact that females seem able to both store sperm and delay giving birth if conditions are not ideal.Environmental factors such as temperature and stress may also affect the youngsters’ development.Even under ideal conditions, the gestation period may exceed 1 year, although a range of 7 to 10 months is more common.

Most female Emperor Scorpions will cease feeding approximately one week before giving birth, and they usually become quite heavy as the young grow.When such females are viewed from above, the carapace segments will be separated by spaces – not abutting one another, as is usual (however, overfed scorpions of either sex may also appear gravid).

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Fusion121

Housing the Female and Her Young

Although wild Emperor Scorpions continue to live with colony members after giving birth, captive mothers often become aggressive towards tank-mates. Therefore, it is best to remove all other scorpions from the terrarium once the youngsters appear.This can be troublesome if you are keeping a large group, but relocating the female is not advisable as this may stress her to the point of consuming her brood.I’ve had females raise their young in group situations in large zoo exhibits, but there were some losses.

The Importance of Shelters

Ideally, the female will have a burrow in which to retreat.This will provide the security she needs while carrying her young. In bare terrariums, the likelihood of cannibalism increases.

In order to be prepared for unexpected births, you should provide your scorpions with a substrate that allows for the creation of deep burrows.Tunnel and burrow walls will remain intact in a slightly moist mix of peat moss, sand, top soil and Eco Earth.If your female gives birth in a tank that is not set-up as described, try adding a commercial cave stocked with moist sphagnum moss.If the substrate is deep enough, bury the cave so that the opening is flush with the surface.

High humidity and moist retreats are especially important for young scorpions, as, unlike the adults, they are prone to desiccation.In especially dry locales, a small reptile fogger may be useful.

Cannibalism

Newborn scorpions are white in color, and remain on their mother’s back until their first molt (photo of female with young is of an unrelated species).If the female is disturbed during this time, she will make very fast defensive movements.Scorplings that are dislodged during such times may quickly be grabbed and eaten.

Therefore, do as little work in the terrarium as possible, limit activity in the area, and resist the impulse to check on your charges.To avoid stings, a long handled forceps should always be used when working in scorpion terrariums; this is especially important when females with young are present. Black or red nocturnal viewing bulbs offer the best way to observe your pet’s night-time activities, as the light emitted is not sensed by scorpions.

Feed your female scorpion heavily after she gives birth, as most will be very hungry and therefore more likely to “snack” on their young.Be sure to remove uneaten crickets and roaches promptly, as they will consume newborn scorpions if given the opportunity.

Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Mike Baird

“Bad Moms”

Some females feed upon their young even if conditions are ideal.Most will “sample” one or two of their brood, but if your scorpion seems bent on eliminating her entire clutch, then your best to remove her and rear them yourself.Please post below for further information on separating and caring for young Emperor Scorpions.

Please check out my posts on Twitterand Facebook.Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly.

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Emperor Scorpions in the Wild and Captivity

Breeding Emperor Scorpions

Post from: That Reptile Blog


“My Emperor Scorpion Has Babies…What Should I Do”?

The post “My Emperor Scorpion Has Babies…What Should I Do”? appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

What’s in Store for Scorpion Fans

Among the world’s 2,000+ scorpion species we find an astonishing diversity of fascinating creatures, many of which make hardy pets that adjust well to small enclosures.  Several reproduce readily in captivity – lucky scorpion keepers may even be treated to the sight of a female feeding her offspring with crickets!  At least 15 species are established in the pet trade, and specialists are working with several others.

Natural History

At 8.5 inches in length,the South African Flat Rock Scorpion, Hadogenes troglodytes, is the largest scorpion regularly seen in captivity.  It is exceeded in size only by India’s 10-12 inch-long Giant Forest Scorpion, Heterometrus swammerdami.  The largest North American species is the 4 inch Florida Bark Scorpion, Centruroides gracilis.  Today’s giants are dwarfed by the ancient Sea Scorpions…some were larger than a person (please see article below)!  On the other end of the scale, several in the genus Microtityus are a mere 0.3 inches long.

Most scorpions feed upon a variety of invertebrates, but some specialize in catching land snails and other scorpions. Frogs and other vertebrates are sometimes taken by large individuals.  All scorpions produce live young, and some are parthenogenic (reproduce without mating).

Females often carry the young on their backs, and several species feed them with shredded insects.  Emperor Scorpions and others exhibit complex social behaviors.

Range and Habitat

Scorpions are found on all continents except Antarctica, and live in deserts, grasslands, caves, rainforests, human dwellings and many other habitats.  A surprising number thrive in temperate climates, ranging as far north as Canada; 90+ species inhabit the USA.  They are frequent stowaways…I was once called to Kennedy Airport to collect a scorpion that had stung a customs inspector as she checked luggage. 

Venom

Scorpion venoms are complex, and are being studied for possible use in the treatment of Lupus, cancer, MS and Rheumatoid Arthritis, and as pain-killers and insecticides. 

Most of the 25-30 species capable of delivering dangerous stings are classified within the Genera Centruroides, Androctonus and Tityus. 

Scorpions in Captivity

Scorpions are nocturnal, but captives often emerge to feed by day. 

Due to peculiarities in molecular structure of the exoskeleton, scorpions fluoresce (“glow”) under UVB light; scientists have not determined what purpose this serves.

Housing

Setting up the Terrarium

Scorpions are best kept in screen-covered aquariums or plastic terrariums.   A 10-15 gallon tank is usually adequate for a single adult or pair.

Scorpions need a dark hiding spot.  Burrowers such as the Emperor Scorpion will dig their own retreats if provided with deep substrate.  Arboreal scorpions will hide behind an upright piece of bark, while South African Rock Scorpions prefer narrow rock crevices.  Most also accept inverted flower pots and plastic caves.

Substrate

A mix of coconut husk and peat moss works well for rainforest natives.  Burrows will stay intact if you add just enough water so that the substrate sticks together when squeezed.

Arizona Hairy Scorpions and other desert-dwellers can be kept on a sand/gravel mix.

Light

Reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your pets’ nocturnal activities. 

Heat

Most scorpions do well at temperatures of 78-86 F (please write in for individual species details).

Reptile night bulbs or ceramic reptile heaters can be used to warm the terrarium.  Heat pads are another option, but these warm the substrate more than the air.  Any heating element may dry out the terrarium, so it is important to monitor humidity.

Humidity

Rainforest species require humidity levels in the range of 75-85%, while those from arid habitats do best at 40-50% humidity.  Desert-dwelling scorpions spend most of their time in moist burrows, and should be provided a cave stocked with damp sphagnum moss.

Companions

Emperor Scorpions and several others live in social groups that occupy a single burrow system.  However, females with young may become aggressive…please write in for further information. 

If given enough space, a scorpion colony will establish a complicated maze of burrows.

Feeding

Most scorpions will thrive on a diet comprised of crickets, mealworms and earthworms, but they should also be offered roaches, waxworms, and other invertebrates.  Pink mice are not required, even for the largest species.

Once adjusted to their homes, scorpions will often accept canned grasshoppers and snails from feeding tongs.  Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Scorpions obtain water from their prey, but should also be provided with a shallow, easily-exited water bowl. 

Health Considerations

All scorpions produce venom and can deliver a painful sting.  While those commonly sold in the US pet trade are not known to have caused fatalities, dangerous species have appeared, either accidentally or purposefully.  Also, a serious allergic reaction to any venom is possible.  Purchase scorpions only from reliable sources, and be sure you can identify those you are considering. 

Scorpions adjust well to captivity, but cannot be “tamed” or “trusted”, and should not be touched with bare hands.  Move scorpions by urging them into a clear container with long-handled tongs, or by inverting a container over the animal and sliding the cover below.  Lifting by the “tail”, or telson, places you in danger and can injure the scorpion. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments below…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

When 8-Foot-Long Scorpions Roamed…

Scorpion fossilized in amber

Keeping Emperor Scorpions

Checklist, USA’s Scorpions 

Scorpion Venom as a Morphine Substitute

Buthus Scorpion image originally referenced from wikipedia and uploaded by Evilhakfar

C. gracilis with babies image originally referenced from wikipedia and uploaded by Ja

Flat Rock Scorpion image originally referenced from wikipedia and uploaded by TimVickers

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Scorpions as Pets – an Overview of their Care

The post Scorpions as Pets – an Overview of their Care appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Pre-dating the dinosaurs, scorpions are a hardy lot, and rarely present us with health problems (at least any that we can identify). Spiders are a bit more prone to illness and injury, and some fine work has been done by private keepers (virtually none by vets, however).  Much of what follows is drawn from conversations with spider keepers, and from my own and others experiments in scorpion health care.  In this regard, Sam Marshall’s chapter on spider first aid in his fine book Tarantulas and Other Arachnids is a must read for scorpion fans.

Warning: Seek the advice of an exotic animal veterinarian before attempting treatment…you may get lucky and find an invertebrate expert!

Under no circumstances should you restrain a scorpion by hand in order to treat it.  Even species known to be “harmless” can inflict fatal stings on allergic individuals. Always use long-handled tongs to restrain the animal and seek the assistance of a competent helper.  Please write in for information on chilling scorpions or the use of carbon dioxide or ether as an anesthetic.

Cuts, Punctures and Cracks

Trauma-induced damage to the exoskeleton is not common, but may occur after fights between individuals of greatly differing sizes or when a scorpion is dropped (note: scorpions should be transferred after being prodded with forceps into a plastic box; carrying via tongs is risky, and they should never be free-handled).

Injured tarantulas often lose a good deal of blood, or hemolymph as it is more properly termed. Scorpions seem less likely to bleed profusely, but any loss through a wound can be serious.  Oozing cuts can be sealed with a bit of clean plastic held in place by petroleum jelly.  Petroleum jelly alone may suffice if the animal removes the plastic “band aid”.  Superglue, which has been used successfully on tarantulas, is also worth considering. 

Scorpions that have lost hemolymph should be offered water to drink.  Scorpions move in part by adjusting their hemolymph pressure; water should help to restore normal fluid levels.

Leg Loss

Scorpions do not, as far as we know, readily shed legs when under attack as do spiders.  Lost limbs may grow back, albeit in a smaller or deformed state.  Loss of body fluids is the main concern (please see above).

Shedding Problems

Dry conditions can cause a scorpion to become trapped in its old exoskeleton, or to retain pieces of it.  This is especially common in rainforest-adapted species such as Emperor Scorpions, but can occur in desert dwellers as well.  Desert scorpions should be provided with a large shedding box or cave provisioned with damp moss.  Terrariums housing Emperors and similar scorpions should be kept extra moist when the animals shed. 

If your scorpion has difficulty shedding, first try covering the tank top with plastic, and misting heavily; the animal may then continue on its own.  If this fails, you can sometimes remove bits of old exoskeleton with a forceps, after misting the scorpion.  Reptile shedding aids are also worth investigating.

Fungus

We know nothing of the fungal infections that can inflict scorpions. Fungus is rarely a problem with Emperor Scorpions, but may appear in arid-adapted species that are kept in moist conditions. Fungal infections appear as flat or fuzzy grey to white patches on the exoskeleton. 

Drying out the habitat, or moving the animal to a drier environment, is the best option.  Human anti-fungal powders have been used with some success on tarantulas, and may be worth trying if the fungus persists.

Mites

Tiny white mites usually appear in moist scorpion terrariums at some point. These are almost always harmless, and feed upon decaying organic matter in the tank.  Huge populations can potentially pose problems for shedding scorpions, but this is rare.  Please see the article linked below for information on controlling mites. 

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Time-Lapsed Video, Scorpion Shedding

Mites in Scorpion Terrariums

Tarantulas and Other Arachnids

Asian Forest Scorpion image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Chris Huh
Emporer Scorpion image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Danny Steaven

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Treating Sick and Injured Emperor Scorpions

The post Treating Sick and Injured Emperor Scorpions appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Natural History

Sea Scorpions are the ancestors of modern-day scorpions, and perhaps of all Arachnids.  Pre-dating the dinosaurs, they emerged approximately 470 million years ago, and roamed the seas (and fresh waters) for over 100 million years. 

Today’s scorpions are amazingly similar to these prehistoric giants, and, along with Horseshoe Crabs, are among the oldest creatures to inhabit the earth.  I have since childhood been awed by exhibits showing re-creations of their habitats (please see photo), and especially by the actual fossil of an ancient Horseshoe Crab on display at the American Museum of Natural History in NYC, which seems indistinguishable from those alive today (please see photo).

Why Were They So Large?

There had long been tantalizing clues that hinted at the Sea Scorpions’ massive size, the most telling being the discovery of a nearly 20-inch-long claw in Prum, Germany.  Theories abound as to why they grew so large – perhaps it was a result of an evolutionary “arms race” with other massive invertebrates of the time, such as 5-foot-long millipedes and coffee-table-sized spiders.  Other possibilities include the effects of an oxygen-rich atmosphere and the absence of vertebrate competitors.

Well-Armed but “Weak”

The Sea Scorpions’ massive claws are armed with long, sharp spikes, prompting some to refer to them as the “Invertebrate T. rex”.  However, a study recently published in the Bulletin of the Buffalo Natural History Society raises the possibility that Sea Scorpions were not the nightmarish predators that many believed them to be.  Based on reconstructions, it seems that the power of the claws was limited by mechanical constraints.  They would not, for example, have been able to crack the shells of potential prey animals such as Horseshoe Crabs.  

Also, the lack of an “elbow joint” between the claw and body limited mobility – unlike modern scorpions, Seas Scorpions could not raise their claws above their bodies.  Sea Scorpions likely captured small, bottom-dwelling animals (please see drawing linked below) and were not a major predator of fast-moving fishes.  Some have even suggested that they were – horror of all horror for scorpion fans – vegetarians!

Today’s Giants

Over 2,000 species of scorpions survive today.  The largest of these is the South African Rock Scorpion, Hadogenes troglodytes, which reaches 8.5 inches in length; the ever-popular Emperor Scorpion, Pandinus emperor, while not quite as long, is still considered a modern-day giant.  The USA’s largest is the 4-inch-long Brown or Florida Bark Scorpion, Centruroides gracilis.  A number of scorpions never exceed 0.3 inches or so in length.

Please check out my posts on Twitter and Facebook.  Each day, I highlight breaking research, conservation news and interesting stories concerning just about every type of animal imaginable.  I look forward to hearing about your interests and experiences as well, and will use them in articles when possible.

Please also post your questions and comments here…I’ll be sure to respond quickly. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Further Reading

Drawings of Ancient Sea Scorpions and their Prey

Scorpions: an Overview of Popular Species

Why Were Prehistoric Insects so Huge?  

 
Giant Sea Scorpion image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by University of Bristol/Associated Press
National Museum of Natural History, palaeontological exhibition, ordovician, Washington D.C image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Fritz Geller-Grimm

Post from: That Reptile Blog


World’s Largest Arachnids – Eight-Foot-Long Scorpions of Ancient Seas

The post World’s Largest Arachnids – Eight-Foot-Long Scorpions of Ancient Seas appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Where Did They Come From, What Are They Doing?

It is nearly impossible to prevent Mites from entering one’s collection – even if the terrarium and substrate are sterilized, they will invariably enter as hitchhikers on food insects.  Most Mites are intolerant of dry conditions, and hence rarely appear in enclosures housing Red-Kneed Tarantulas, Desert Hairy Scorpions or other species that hail from arid habitats.

The white Mites observed in invertebrate and other terrariums are almost invariably scavengers that feed upon dead crickets and other food insects, animal droppings and decomposing organic material within the substrate.  Those seen crawling about tarantulas and other animals are foraging for bits of food.  In a sense, they are “cleaning” their hosts…but most pet keepers do not like to see them doing so (nor did visitors to some of the zoo exhibits I’ve worked on)! 

In rare cases, scavenging Mites may feed upon an invertebrate whose exoskeleton has not hardened after molting, or enter an injured area of the carapace.  If large populations are allowed to build up, they may also cause stress by their constant moving about.

Troublesome Mites

Parasitic Mites, while common in the wild, do not often seem to invade terrariums.  It may be that they are very specific in their choice of hosts.  I’ve never run into a Mite problem after using soil, logs or leaves that I have collected, but if you are concerned you might try freezing such items before use. 

Eradication can be tricky, as products designed to kill Mites will also be toxic to your pets.  There are a few options, however – please write in if you have a Parasitic Mite infestation.

Controlling Mites

Mites are best controlled by the routine removal of dead food items and droppings, as their populations skyrocket when such rich food sources are available.  In terrariums housing invertebrates that favor moist environments, such as Emperor Scorpions or Giant Bird Eating Spiders, you can allow the substrate to dry out a bit…those Mites that are not killed outright by desiccation may be lured to a jar filled with damp sphagnum moss. 

Be sure that your pet is not about to molt or give birth before allowing its terrarium to dry out, and always provide a water bowl or Gel-based Cricket Water Supplement for its use.  The decision to dry out a terrarium must be made on an individual basis – if unsure, please write in for more information.

Further Reading

All (and maybe more!) that you ever wanted to know about Mite lifestyles and ecology may be found on the website of the US Department of Agriculture.

Please write in with your questions and comments. 

Thanks, until next time,

Frank Indiviglio

Goliath Birdeater image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Universo Aracnido

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Invertebrate Health – Mites in Scorpion, Millipede and Tarantula Terrariums

The post Invertebrate Health – Mites in Scorpion, Millipede and Tarantula Terrariums appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Current Research

Although considered only mildly toxic, S. jendeki’s venom is quite complex, containing at least 19 different proteins. Scientists believe that these molecules may be useful in synthesizing new drugs. Newly discovered molecules, which may attack cells in novel ways, are always looked upon with great interest by medical researchers working with incurable diseases and drug-resistant microbes.

Role for a Deadly Scorpion

In recent years, even the much-maligned “death stalker” or Israeli yellow scorpion (Leiurus quinquestriatus) is being treated with new respect in the lab – an irradiated version of a protein in its venom shows great promise in the treatment of brain cancer.

Further Reading

You can read more about current research involving scorpion venom and brain cancer at http://www.nano.org.uk/news/april2009/latest1847.htm.

Please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Research Update – Medically Useful Proteins Found in Scorpion Venom

The post Research Update – Medically Useful Proteins Found in Scorpion Venom appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.

Although relatively harmless, these most unusual Arachnids certainly are formidable – some might say “nightmarish” – in appearance.  If you are looking to add an animal that borders on the unbelievable to your collection, look no further than these fascinating spider relatives. 

Description

Tailless whipscorpions are members of the Arachnid order Amblypygi, related to but distinct from the spiders and scorpions.  The incredibly long front legs have evolved into sensory organs, and are slowly moved back and forth, touching this and that, as the animal senses its way about.  It really is quite a sight to behold – one simply has no frame of reference, no matter how many odd creatures have crossed one’s path. 

These specialized legs may cover a span of over 1 ½ feet. Some of the larger tropical species also sport 8 inch long “regular legs” and flattened bodies exceeding 2 inches in length – very impressive beasts over-all.  Huge pinchers, kept close to the body until needed to grasp meals, add to the effect.

Tailless Whipscorpions in Captivity

The huge Tanzanian giant tailless whipscorpions (Damon variegatus and D. diadema), are becoming increasingly popular with invertebrate enthusiasts, with captive reproduction now regularly recorded.  I have housed similarly-sized individuals in groups without incident, and was even successful in breeding them in this situation (I removed the youngsters to prevent predation).

In common with all related species, Tanzanian giants are arboreal, and need wide, flat climbing surfaces.  Cork bark slabs are ideal.  They should be provided a varied diet consisting of crickets, waxworms, roaches, locusts and wild caught insects.

All species kept to date require very damp conditions and temperatures of 72-76 F.  Despite their tropical origins, tailless whipscorpions are most often found in caves, wells, hollow trees and other cool micro-habitats.  Most fail to thrive if kept warmer than 80 F. 

Although lacking venom glands, tailless whipscorpions can break the skin with their formidable front claws.  For this reason, and because they move very quickly and shed legs easily, these odd creatures should not be handled.

Further Reading

You can learn more about the natural history of African tailless whipscorpions at http://www.arc.agric.za/home.asp?pid=4078.

Please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Image referenced from Wikipedia and originally posted by Luis Fernandez Garcia

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Tailless Whipscorpions – the Weirdest of All Arachnids?

The post Tailless Whipscorpions – the Weirdest of All Arachnids? appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

Note:  Please see Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species, Part I for general natural history and captive husbandry information.

Asian Forest Scorpions, Heterometrus spp.

Several species that superficially resemble emperor scorpions are sometimes available in the trade.  Known collectively as Asian forest scorpions and hailing from Southeast Asia, the most commonly seen is Heterometrus spinifer.  Like the emperor, it is jet black in color, but the claws have fewer spikes and its maximum size is 6 inches. 

Basic Care

I keep Heterometrus in much the same way as I have described for emperor scorpions (Please see Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species: The Emperor Scorpion, Pandinus imperator).  Like their African cousins, Asian forest scorpions are also quite social…a group of 10 that I housed together in an exhibit at the Bronx Zoo co-existed for years without incident.  They seem to be quite temperature sensitive, and are best maintained at 78-85 F.  The gestation period is 5-8 months and sexual maturity is reached in 1-3 years.

Asian forest scorpions are somewhat more high-strung than emperors, and sting readily.  Heterometrus spinifer is not considered dangerous to healthy adults, but the closely related H. swammerdami of India (which, at 10-12 inches in length, is among the world’s longest scorpions) has reportedly caused fatalities.

Asian forest scorpions and emperor scorpions are both classified within the Family Scorpionidae.  Further information and a complete listing of all related species is available at http://www.ub.ntnu.no/scorpion-files/scorpionidae.php.

Please write in with your comments and questions…suggestions as to other species you would like to read about would be most appreciated.  Thanks, until next time, Frank Indiviglio.

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species: Asian Forest Scorpions, Genus Heterometrus

The post Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species: Asian Forest Scorpions, Genus Heterometrus appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The basic care of this scorpion parallels that which I described for emperor scorpions in the article Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species; Part II: The Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus imperator). I’ll highlight species-specific information below.

South African Rock Scorpion, Hadogenes troglodytes

Ranging throughout much of southern Africa, this scorpion giant (7.5 to 8.5 inches in length) is always found in association with rocky places, especially the savannah-based outcroppings know as kopjes.  A thoroughly flattened body suits it especially well for climbing among and hiding within rock piles, a habitat it shares with the similarly-shaped flat rock lizards (Platysuarus spp.) and pancake tortoise (Malacochersus tornieri). 

Color Variations

Rock scorpions vary greatly in color from population to population, and usually closely match the rocks of their habitat in hue.  Tan, reddish, brown, olive and yellow specimens, and a variety of shades in-between, all appear in the pet trade from time to time.

Captive Habitat

In captivity, they should be supplied with ample climbing opportunities in the form of rock piles and plastic reptile shelters   and caves.  If you use natural rocks, be sure to place the base of the pile directly upon the terrarium floor, not on sand, so that the scorpions do not burrow below and become crushed.  Repti sand makes a fine substrate. 

The rock scorpion terrarium should be kept dry, with a light spraying of water once every 3-4 days being enough to supply their moisture requirements.  A water bowl is not necessary.  

Rock scorpions are rather shy and high strung, much more so than their more commonly-kept relative, the emperor scorpion.  They will not thrive if forced to remain exposed.  Given secure shelters, however, they readily settle into captive life and may very well reproduce once habituated.  They are fairly slow-moving and seem to rely mainly upon their claws for defense.  Their venom is not considered to be dangerous to healthy adults.

A number of other scorpions do quite well in captivity, including US natives such as the Arizona hairy and Florida bark scorpions.  I’ll cover these and others in the future. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.

An American Museum of Natural History field report detailing Hadogenes natural history and the description of 2 new species is posted at:

http://research.amnh.org/users/lorenzo/PDF/Prendini.2006.AMN.Hadogenes.pdf

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species: the South African Rock Scorpion, Hadogenes troglodytes

The post Scorpions in Captivity – An Overview of Popular Species: the South African Rock Scorpion, Hadogenes troglodytes appeared first on That Reptile Blog.

The captive reproduction of emperor scorpions is a most interesting endeavor (for hobbyists and, I imagine, the scorpions themselves!).  When properly housed and cared for, emperor scorpions are relatively easy to breed.  This is surprising, given that they are such unique and highly specialized creatures, and is an opportunity that should not be missed.  Many prominent invertebrate specialists started out with this species…keeping them is a wonderful way of becoming involved in invertebrate husbandry, and will almost certainly “hook” you for good.

Distinguishing the Sexes

In captivity, as within certain parts of the natural range, mating may occur during any month.  Adult females are longer and stouter than males, but this is not a reliable means of distinguishing the sexes. 

There are some slight differences in the shape of the genital openings.  View the scorpions from below, in a clear plastic box, when attempting to sex in this manner – do not restrain them via hand or tongs.  Photos of the undersides of male and female emperor scorpions are posted at http://www.pandinusimperator.nl/EN/biology_EN.htm.

Courtship and Mating

Reproduction is most likely to occur if your scorpions are housed in a large terrarium that provides ample burrowing opportunities.  All species studied thus far perform a “mating dance”, with the pair locking claws and moving about.  It is theorized that this helps to clear a patch of ground for the deposition of the males’ sperm packet.  I imagine, but have not been able to determine for sure, that the specific dance “moves” also aid in species’ recognition among these nearly blind creatures (this is the case in “dancing” scorpion relatives, such as jumping spiders).

The male deposits a sperm packet on the ground and pulls the female over it (it is tempting here to draw analogies to salamander reproduction).  Hooks along the edges of the sperm packet latch onto the female’s genital opening, and the eggs are then fertilized internally.

Gestation and Birth

Gestation is highly variable, ranging from 7-10 months on average but sometimes exceeding 1 year.  It is likely that stress, temperature and other factors play a role in determining the length of the gestation period.

Females continue to feed while gravid, and may swell noticeably…when viewed from above, the carapace segments appear widely spaced, and seem ready to split apart (heavily-fed scorpions of either sex, however, may also appear gravid). 

The young (sometimes called “scorplings”), 8-30 in number, are born alive and measure about 5/8 of an inch in length.  They are white in color and remain on the female’s back until their first moult, at which time they darken and begin to venture off on their own.  Once this occurs, they will readily accept ½ inch crickets, small waxworms, newly molted mealworms, wild-caught insects and canned silkworms.

Maternal Care of the Young

Female emperor scorpions feed their young with finely-shredded insects – this really is something to see.  By all means, try to do so by viewing yours at night with the aid of an incandescent “nocturnal” bulb.  The degree of care they provide to their young is extraordinary, and is far greater than one might expect from such supposedly “primitive” creatures.  Even among those scorpions that exhibit social behavior, emperors stand out as being very advanced in this regard.

Caring for the Mother and Her Brood

Once the female has given birth, all other scorpions should be removed from the terrarium, as she will become highly aggressive and defensive.  Do not relocate the mother…this inevitably stresses her and may cause her to consume her young. 

Females with young react aggressively to any disturbance, even occasionally grabbing and eating scorplings that become dislodged from their backs.  This is not an uncommon occurrence – do not remove the remaining young unless she begins eating them regularly, as the overall survival rate is improved when clutches are reared with their mother.  I have raised several clutches to adulthood with the mother present – the key lies in disturbing her as little as possible and in providing a deep, secure burrow. 

I usually raise the terrarium’s temperature to 85-90 F when rearing young emperor scorpions – this may not be essential, but I have found it to work well.

Sexual maturity in the wild is reportedly reached in 4-7 years, but captives may breed when only 12-14 months of age.  Emperor scorpions under my care have reproduced at age 3 and 4 years.

Several other scorpions may be maintained and bred in much the same manner as the emperor scorpion.  Next time I’ll post a short note highlighting one of these – the Asian forest scorpion, and will also address a species from a very different habitat type, the huge South African rock scorpion. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments.  Thanks, frank Indiviglio.

The Woodland Park Zoo provides interesting information on emperor and other scorpions in nature and captivity at:

http://www.zoo.org/factsheets/scorpion/scorpion.html

Post from: That Reptile Blog


Breeding Emperor Scorpions

The post Breeding Emperor Scorpions appeared first on That Reptile Blog.