“Help! My Ball Python Won’t Eat” – The Troublesome Habits of a Popular Snake – Part 1
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Also known as the Royal Python (Python regius), this smallest of Africa’s pythons is also the one best suited for captivity…one Ball Python lived at the Philadelphia Zoo for a record 47.6 years. However, even long-term captives often exhibit the disturbing habit of refusing food for long periods. This tendency is the source of a great many questions that I receive from both neophyte and well-experienced snake keepers.
Fasting as a Survival Mechanism
Ball Pythons inhabit some of the most hostile habitats in Africa and, due to cold temperatures or drought-induced shortages of prey, must sometimes fast for extended periods – much longer than other snakes. From experience with other reptiles, it is becoming clear that circadian rhythms (“internal clocks”, in a sense) often govern behavior of captive animals many generations removed from the wild. Unfortunately, there are no hard-and-fast rules. Unlike some reptiles, which cease feeding in winter even if kept warm, Ball Pythons go on and off feed according to a schedule that only they understand!
Another point to bear in mind is that captives generally eat far more than wild snakes, and expend little energy in hunting, and so may eventually need to eat at less frequent intervals.
Judging Your Snake’s Condition
A fast of 3-4 months, or in some cases even longer, will do no harm if your Ball Python is in good weight – they are very effective at matching their metabolisms to food intake (Please see article below). A good way to tell if a snake is too thin is to check for a protruding backbone. This will appear as a distinct ridge along the back – quite visible and different from just the outline of the bone. If this ridge is not evident, then try offering food every 10 days to 2 weeks, or consider using some of the techniques covered in Part II of this article.
There are a few tricks that sometimes induce reluctant snakes to feed. In Part II of this article we’ll discuss “scenting”, novel prey items, hiding food and other techniques that you can try. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments.
Thanks, until next time,
Frank Indiviglio
Further Reading
An understanding of the Ball Python’s life in the wild is critical if one is to keep these fascinating creatures properly. Please see my 2 part article, Ball Python Natural History, for more information.
Please see How Snakes Grow Despite Food Deprivation for the story behind snakes’ amazing abilities to survive and thrive during prolonged fasts.
Pet Ball Python image referenced from wikipedia and originally posted by Mokele
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about 1 year ago
Frank – do you have an opinion on the live feed vs. frozen thawed? Are any potential benefits of providing a live mouse (because that would be more “natural”) be outweighed by the chance of injury to the snake?
about 1 year ago
Hello Brett, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interesting question; nice to hear from you again.
Live rodents are almost never necessary; in several decades of work with large zoo collections, I can recall a mere handful of times when they were used, and these involved species not available in the pet trade. In those cases, I used pink or fuzzy mice, which cannot bite.
Toothed rodents will cause injury in time; most of the anacondas I tagged in the wild bore evidence of wounds, and several deaths (infection) were documented in our study. In captivity, the snake’s inability to hunt and kill it’s prey in natural surroundings, with ample space, increases the chance of injury. Often, live prey thrust into a cage will actually stress a reluctant feeder. Many wild snakes take carrion (even the fat from a road-killed pig, in the case of water moccasins!), so it really is not a stretch; scent is far more important than movement in initiating feeding in the vast majority of species.
I don’t know of any studies that have compared the nutritional value of frozen vs. fresh rodents, but many have been done re human food; most I know of show no problems (there are some concerns with frozen fish, which are easily addressed, please let me know if you need more info) unless perhaps if food is stored for an unusually long time. Most zoos buy live rodents and euthanize them prior to feeding, which may be an option for private keepers who are concerned. However, I have used frozen rodents in zoo collections without incident, but do not have long-term studies at hand.
Good luck and please let me know if you need more info on this,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hi Frank,
My name is Wendy and I am writing about my loving, wonderful baby named Boaz. Boaz is our family snake, is about a year old, and the most wonderful pet we have. Just so you understand my passion for Boaz, when we first bought him (from AZ Reptile), I wanted him to feel so much at home, I defrosted his pinkie in beef broth, LOL, needless to say, he would not touch it. We have talked, sang, and treat Boaz as any other pet of ours, and this has resulted in a very docile wonderful pet (I like to think he really knows us). But we have a problem, he has not eaten in about two months (reptile agent says he looks healthy, it is mating season, and your blog mentions it is normal), the big problem is the caps on his eyes, we cannot get them off. We have tried soaking and misting his bedding, and we are to nervous to try to pull them off ourselves. Please give us suggestions. Also, through your research of reptiles, can a snake eventually know their name and its owners? If not, I really would like for you to meet boaz
Thank you……………………..Wendy
about 1 year ago
Hello Wendy, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog…and the broth story! Yes, they will shun all food except rodents – no supplements needed either. Please check out my article on their natural history for more info.
A 2 month fast is not at all unusual assuming it is otherwise in good health and that your temperatures are appropriate; likely not tied to mating season, as your animal is young, but we do not understand much about their “biological clocks”; individuals several generations removed from the wild still seem to respond to seasonal changes and such that are occurring in their natural habitat.
Did the snake shed its skin, except for the eye caps? If that is the case, then you’ll need veterinary assistance; do not attempt to remove them yourself. Please let me if you need help in locating an experienced vet. If the snake has not yet shed, the opaqueness you see is normal; it will clear just before shedding occurs.
Snakes do not recognize people as might a dog or cat; they will adjust to handling, but cannot be regarded as “domesticated”. Snakes respond to the world differently than mammals…snakes that have been “tame” for decades can suddenly bite, keyed by vibrations, scents, internal disorders, hormonal surges and other conditions that we cannot detect.
Therefore, it is very important that you not place the snake near your face, and that the head always be restrained around children (who are often eye-level with the snake). The bite from even a tiny snake can cause a severe infection, and of course bites to the face are a major concern. Snakes cannot hear (except for low-pitched sounds below our range of hearing) so it’s not possible to train them to respond to names, commands. However, when kept in a manner that suits their true natures, they are extremely interesting and make fine, long-lived (to 50+ years for ball pythons!) pets.
Good luck, enjoy and please let me know if you need further info.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 11 months ago
Hello, i have a question i just bought a ball python juvenile male around 3 or 4 days ago, hes kind and loving but he wont eat, petsmart said he hasent eatin in about 3 weeks, and know its going on a month…, help?
about 11 months ago
Hello Chad, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest. A month long fast is nothing to be concerned over, especially as the snake was at a pet store (often a very stressful environment) and has now been moved to a new home. Please let me know some details as to temperature, basking site, tank size and shelter, just to make sure all is as it should be. From what you write, I’m guessing that you are handling the snake often? While ball pythons generally calm down in time, please understand that they really do not benefit from this at all; if handled before they have adjusted to captivity, most will refuse to eat for quite some time. Best to disturb the snake as little as possible for now.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
Hey how are you? I bought three snakes from a neighbor now I have two ball pythons and one boa.. One is a male and one is a female, they were caged together when I got them… I have seperated them now, and the male has adapt real well in his cage… But my female hasn’t ate since I got her about three weeks ago, my other two snakes have eaten…. She has started shedding and hasn’t finished the skin is just now starting to peel off.. When I offer her the small rat she will come up to it, then she turns away from it… I am just worried about her… She is a very beautiful snake, she also laid one single egg about two weeks ago it was no good.. The vet told me to seperate her and the male, to stop that from happening…
about 10 months ago
Hello Juan, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Best to soak the snake in a few inches of water overnight so that she will finish shedding…please see this article for more info.
Three weeks is generally not a concern at all; you can try mice in the future if she rejects small rat. However, if she has produced only 1 egg there are almost certainly others developing. If these are not expelled they may decay and cause a bacterial infection which is usually fatal (commonly termed egg yolk peritonitis). Provide her with a cave or other shelter provisioned with dam sphagnum moss to encourage her to deposit the eggs. Producing only 1 is not, however, a good sign, as the entire clutch should be deposited at once; Is it possible that perhaps she laid a clutch earlier, and the egg you saw was an infertile one expelled afterwards…this is normal. In any case, gravid snakes rarely feed. Splitting the pair is a good idea if you plan to breed in the future. In any event, if she does not deposit eggs in 1-2 weeks, a radiograph should be taken; an experienced reptile vet can advise you on treatment if eggs are found.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
Hey sorry to bother you again.. And thank you for your help last time and I am very happy to tell you my female ball finally ate last Friday… But my question today is she has shed her entire body except her head and it seems like she isn’t trying to get it off, is there anything i should do, or should i just leave her be… Just asking cause I was reading on the internet that if the eye caps don’t come off, it could be bad for the snake… And I just don’t know what else to do, I mist her cage for humidity she has a log with bark on it to rub against…. And once again thank you so much….
about 10 months ago
Hello Juan, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the kind words and glad to hear the news. Soaking the snake overnight usually helps…please see this article for details, and be sure to write back if you have any questions about the process. Unshed eye caps (brille) are a concern…you should be able to see the old caps within the skin once it is shed.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
My husband and I have a 6 year old ball python, very loving snake! We enjoy her! We bought her from a family about 1 year ago that had her in a 10 gallon tank and sand and no place for her to hide. So we got a bigger cage so she would feel more comfortable. We figure she was not treated well? The questions that we have are when we give her a bath she seems she does not like the water and we know we have the right temp. for her before we put her in. We found out for her to calm down in the bath to soak is to pet her. Also, it has been 3 1/2 weeks since she has ate and we are worried, she would give us her usual signs that she is hungry and we also make sure that the tank temp. and etc. is where it is suppose too be. We are concerned, my husband thinks that she may have mouth rot? She has been making wheezing noises lately and she even made these noises the first week we bought her, we don’t know what to do? Should we take her to get checked? Please we would really like to hear your advice…
Thank you,
about 6 months ago
Hello Michelle, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest. It is not wise to place the snake in water unless it is having difficulty shedding; even then, confining it to damp moss overnight is preferable. Ball pythons are native to very arid habitats; some populations rarely if even encounter standing water. Forcibly bathing it is quite stressful, and can exacerbate other health problems; please also bear in mind that they will bite in self defense, and snake bite wounds often become infected.
Best to just provide a bowl of water – the snake will use it as needed. Fill the bowl to a point where it will not overflow if the snake curls up within.
You might find this 2 Part article on Ball Python Natural History and Care of interest.
Fasts are not at all unusual. However, wheezing usually signifies a lung infection or related problem. You didn’t mention what symptoms o mouth rot were present, but in any case a vet can check for that as well. Infections spread rapidly so it would be best to see a vet in the near future. Please let me know if you need assistance in locating a reptile-experienced vet.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck , and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 4 months ago
Hi Frank; We need some help;
my boyfriend and I have two snakes (we think) a male and a female. Our female “Jewels” is about 4 years old, when we bought her from a family friend, she did not eat, we researched our hearts out before purchasing her to be the best snake owners we could be. We assumed it was because of a new enviornment, and aloud her to settle in. after about a month and a half, we started to get worried, so we tried many different kinds, live, dead,white,black,big,small – you name it! We called the vet and they ensured us it was fine, and said to call back if she continued for longer than 4 months. ANYWAYS- she ended up being very sick when we got her, and had to give her topical medication for a very bad infection on her stomach , we kept her , because we had already fell in love with her, and the previous owners had not kept good care of her.
Our other snake “drake” is only about 11/2-2years. we got him as a baby, and have raised him.
He is a very healthy ,happy snake. Our only issue is he will not touch a dead mouse. He will only eat live, and we have no idea why. He will go up to frozen/thawed Mice, and turn away from them. Any suggestions that might help? He has been great so far, and we always supervise the feeding to ensure the mice do not bite or scratch him- but it would be nicer to not have to watch the mice die.
My second question is – Would you recommend us getting the smakes sexed to be 100% sure? I hear probbing hurts, but that’s street talk, and I’d like a professional opinion. Our snakes are too old to be popped, and I feel this process would be better left to professionals anyways.
My last question is- Jewels has started to not eat again, it’s been roughly 5 weeks, and we’ve tried on 3 seperate occaions to feed her. a week or so apart.
I know it is normal for them to fast, but she has been sluggish latley; and she has a big lump by her “hole” that leds us to believe she has to have a bowel movment, but it has been 5 weeks since she ate last, and she usually has a bowel movment within a week or so of eating . Any help you have would be so much help.
Also- We have become VERY attached to these snakes, and they are treated as one of the family, so we really hope this is nothing very serious, and if it is, We really hope it can be treated quickly!
Thank you!
about 4 months ago
Hello Elizabeth,
Thanks for your interest.
Best not to feed the younger snake live food; even if you watch, there will be no way for you to prevent a bite, and it will happen eventually. If moving a dead mouse with a long-handled tong does not work, try leaving a dead mouse overnight. Placing it within a small cave or other shelter, sometimes works (all sorts of theories as to why, but it is worth trying). Since the snake has been feeding regularly, a long fast will do no harm (some species even continue to grow when fasting…different process than most vertebrates); far better to keep it hungry than risk live rodents.
Probing should only be done by an experienced person, as it’s easy to pierce the wall of the cloaca. No real need to sex professionally, unless you plan on breeding. The sexes differ visually, but your younger animal may be difficult until it gets older. In males, the hemipenes are located just below the cloaca. The body will taper gradually in width right after the cloaca, then taper more noticeably as one looks towards tail tip. In females, the body becomes narrow immediately after the cloaca. You should be able to find photos on the net, or in a good snake husbandry book (writer back if you need help locating any).
The lump can mean that feces are impacted. Having the snake swim in warm water, in a large enclosure, sometimes helps but a vet visit is preferable. Females may also become egg-bound, but this can only be determined via radiograph.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, and please keep me posted.
A happy and healthy new year to you and yours, Frank Indiviglio
about 4 months ago
Hello Frank,
Great site, I have learned a lot reading through all the blogs.
We have a ball python that will not eat, and has gone several months with out eating. This started when we had a severe mite infestation that arrived with new coco bedding. We have had several appointments with the veterinarian, and the snake is loosing weight rapidly, showing signs of severe dehydration. The veterinarian is treating the snake with antibiotics, and has provided it IV fluids. We will be making another return visit again on Monday for antibiotic treatments. We have a very sick snake on our hands and want to provide him the best possible chances for recovery.
Do you have any experience with issues such as this, and can you offer any suggestions to ensure hydration? We keep plenty of fresh water in the habitat however he is reluctant to visit it.
We will appreciate any pointers you can provide.
about 4 months ago
Hello Chris,
Thanks for your interest and the kind words. Mites and many medications can add to a dehydration problem; fluids supplied by vet would be best at this point. If the snake is ill, it may not, as you report, drink on its own; they also often cease drinking during their normal fasts. Keeping the tank moist is not an option as fungal skin disorders often develop.
Please let me know if you need any further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
Hello Frank!
I have a very healthy 11 year old ball python. He typically eats every 7 or 8 weeks. It has now been 12 weeks. Should I be worried? He eats live rats, he always has (since he was big enough) I got him that way. But I have tried feeding him twice now (once at 9 weeks, then again today), and it’s not happening. I know they eat less frequently during the winter because of the cold. Should I maybe get a second heat lamp on him to make it warmer in his cage? He is decent sized around still, so I’m not worried that he is losing weight, just yet. I would approximate him to be about 2.5″ around (at the widest portion), 4ft long (at the most). Is it too soon to worry? How should I gauge when to try and feed him again, if he is fasting? It would help if he barked and kicked around a food bowl like dogs do…haha..
Thank you!
Katy
about 3 months ago
Hello Katy,
Thanks for your interest. Yes…snakes do make it difficult for us; at some points in my career I had several hundred under my care; checking all took longer than the actual work involved in feeding and cleaning!
Ball Pythons will change their feeding routine even after many years. Sometimes it has to do with age, changing metabolism, etc. Temperature could be a factor..again snake’s cold tolerance may have changed, or perhaps night temps are lower this year; please let me know your day/ night temperatures when you have a moment.
If otherwise in good health, the snake will likely lose little if any weight even after several months; they adjust their metabolism to food availability. Several species have even been found to grom in length despite fasts of several months duration.
The tricky part is distinguishing a fast from an illness, or an intestinal blockage. A snake 11 years without prior history is probably just fasting, but a vet exam/radiographs etc. is the only way to be absolutely sure. I wouldn’t do that just yet, however.
Ball Pythons will wander, nose about if very hungry, but it takes some time for them to get to this point. You might try keeping a dead rat on hand – thaw out and place on screening to see if scent arouses him.
You’ve beaten the odds by feeding live rats for so long; I’ve rarely seen any that have not been injured by then, especially in captivity, where ambush options, space etc. are limited. Very few of the several hundred wild anacondas and other constrictors I’ve handled have been unmarked by prey. If the snake is on a long fast, the end of it would be a good time to try dead prey. Moving the rat via long handled tongs may induce it; also some snakes respond instinctively with a strike when touched with a rodent on head or mid body.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted… always useful for me to have feedback re fasts, thanks.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
Thank you so much! This has been very helpful.
My apartment is usually kept in the upper 60s, both during the day and at night. I have his heat lamp on constantly, but the thermometer in the tank broken so I am not sure how warm it is in there. There is a window near by, and now that I am thinking of it, it would probably be a good idea to wrap it with plastic to make sure there is no draft, now that Chicago is finally starting to change to winter weather.
If I attempt to feed him dead prey once his fast is over, would he switch to always eating dead prey, you think? The last rat I tried feeding him, that he did not eat, bit him after it was in there for a little while. so I took it out, I don’t ever leave him alone with live prey, but seeing how he was bit and did not fight back worried me. His previous owners said he would only eat live. But if switching is possible, I think it would be safest.
How long is too long?
about 3 months ago
Hello Katy,
Thanks for the feedback; would be good to seal window (esp. in Chicago!) and to take temperatures. 24 hrs of light is not the best situation; some animals do fine long term, but it tends to disturb their normal circadian rhythms, which can affect feeding and activity levels. A black/red bulb would be better for nighttime use, as the snake will not sense the light.
3-4 month fasts are not uncommon and cause no problems assuming no underlying health concerns. Has the snake defecated since last meal (blockages will cause a loss of appetite; low temps inhibit digestion).
They all go onto dead food eventually; bites most often occur while snake is constricting rat, which you would not be able to prevent, so yes, switching would be safest.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
The light I am using is the nocturnal infrared spot lamp, 75 watts. the same one that is listed 3rd on that page. Would you suggest a light specific for night as well? He has defecated, so hopefully it’s not blockage.
about 3 months ago
Hello Katy,
Thanks; that lamp is fine for day and night use; a 75 wt should provide enough heat at the room temps you mentioned, but would be good to check.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
My ball python hasn’t eaten in over a month I have tried several different things. Like feeding at night with the heat light off. As well as putting him in a small dark bag. He has a good source of water for soaking. His tank is 95 on the hot end and in the middle 70s on the side with his hide. This concerns me because he was eating on a regular basis untill I moved his tank into a different room 1 that the temperature is better regulated. I am just affraid he is going to starve to death he was eating every 5 days or so before he stopped I have have several snakes over the years and have never had 1 refuse to eat this long he doesn’t appear to be losing weight but it stll concerns me any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
about 3 months ago
Hello Alan,
Thanks for your interest. A month long fast is quite normal; it’s common for snakes to eat heavily when first received and then to slack off after a time. Also, concerning the points made in the article…ball pythons have a wide natural range, and different populations have different internal “clocks”…those with origins in 1 area may periodically fast, while others will not. The 47+ year old specimen mentioned in this article would routinely fast for 2-3 months w/o ill effect.
Feeding every 5 days is not necessary; the snake probably took advantage of the food supply but is now leveling off. Please see this article, and those linked there, for more info, and feel free to write back.
You might lower the basking temperature to 88-90 F, 95F is a bit too warm on a long term basis. Check the cool side frequently – in small terrariums, the entire tank tends to take on the basking temperature. Please send more info on cage size and snake size when you have a moment.
The snake will not lose weight unless otherwise ill. Most reptiles can adjust their metabolisms to food supply; some species even continue to grow during long fasts; please see this article for details.
You can try some of the techniques mentioned in Part II of this article, but wait a week or so; overly disturbing the snake can also put it off feed. The bag technique is not ideal for ball pythons, tends to be stressful for most.
Only a vet exam can determine if a medical problem is present, but with ball pythons food refusal is almost always a natural behavior, and not cause for concern.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
He is in a 20 gallon tank and the cool end stat in
about 3 months ago
Hello Alan
Thanks for the feedback; your note seems to have been cut off, but I suggest you re-check cool end throughout the day and night; in a 20 gallon, a 95 F basking spot usually overheats the whole tank. You may need to use a weaker bulb, or perhaps a very small bulb (25-40 wt, depending on house temps) along with a heat pad (below, not in, the tank).
Allowing temps to drop into high 70’s at night is also useful. Since the animal was feeding well earlier, it might be useful to re-establish conditions that were in place at former location.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
He is in a 20 gallon tank and the cool end stays between 75 with light on and about 70 with it off I will have to buy a smaller watt heat lamp bulb to lower the basking tempature on the other end of the tank he looks very healthy and doesn’t appear to be losing weight I know snakes can stop feeding from time to time I was just concerned I was doing something wrong. How often do you suggest feeding the pet store I bought him through said they feed him every 5 days. I know from past exsperiences with other balls I have owned every 7 to 14 days always seemed to be adequate. Is their any specific bulb or wattage you would suggest. The tank also has a retile heating pad under the tank any further advice would be greatly appreciated. I have always owned exotic pets at one time I had 3 ball pythons and a green iguana that was about 6 foot long moving into a different home I had to get rid of them any further advice on the care of my snake would be greatly appreciated
about 3 months ago
Hello Alan,
Thanks for the feedback. A meal every 7-14 days is the right way to go when the snake is in feeding mode. Specific wattage depends on room temperature over a 24 hr period…unfortunately, you need to experiment which sometimes results in extra expenses for bulbs. The heat pad is adding to the snake’s body temp, and so is likely too much when used with a bulb that raises air temps to 95. Small hand-held temperature “guns” (readers) are very useful, as they give a pinpoint reading; available online. You can point at the snake and learn what it’s actual skin temperature is…very useful; I’ve taken readings from basking painted turtles and found that shell temps were 75 F, despite an air temp of 55 F (outdoors); heat builds up in a basking animal. Again, as your snake did well previously, it might be good to re-establish the situation you used at that time.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
we have a year and a half old male ball pyton,chuckles.he has a 40 gal tank with good hiding spots and proper humidity and temp.he hasn’t eaten in 3 monthes and is healthy and active.he stays on the cooles side under his log,but does come out in the evening.i understand this is normal,but i’m getting cconserned.he started on med rats about 6 monthes ago.was eating well.hes is about 42inches long and aout 2 inch in diameter.am i doing something wrong?
about 3 months ago
Hello
Thanks for your interest. It’s most likely fine…although fasting time varies, it does often occur at this time of the year, and 3 months is not unusual. If otherwise in good health, the snake will not even show much weight loss…a few species can even add length while on prolonged fasts. Males sometimes go off feed when in breeding condition as well. Without a vet exam, there’s no way to be sure that an underlying medical condition is not present, but given that his behavior is otherwise normal I would just continue offering food every 10 days or so until the fast ends.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
thank you,we were just concered because this is our 1st ball and we are quite attached to him.we have had him since he was 18 in long and have really enjoyed watching him grow.we will keep you posted,thank you again
about 3 months ago
Hello Chuck
Thanks for the feedback. They can suddenly begin fasting after years, but given the length of time you’ve had him, it’s likely related to breeding readiness; keep an eye out that he doesn’t rub his snout on the screening overnight.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
Hi! me again- I emailed earlier about my pet snale Jewels and her not eating. it’s been about a month or so longer, and she still hasn’t made a bowel movement or eaten. i’ve started tp notice she is looking thinner around the head/neck area. My boyfriend and I are hacong am arguement- I want to bring her to the house we are currently living and he doesn’t. he thinks the move will be too stressful on her and I feel she’d be better takin care of woth us (his family takes care of her right now) . when we got her a few years ago she was very ill and almost died. My boyfriend thinks this could be what is causing her issues now; we are debating taking her to the vet ; but we thought about this first- Do you think she’s sick? if she is suffering we don’t want to put her through that and would rather her (no matter hpw hard it will be) be put out of her misery. PLEASE HELP. we are very concerned , she means a great deal to us
about 3 months ago
Hello Elizabeth
Thanks for the update. A month-long fast is not out of the ordinary. However, a medical problem is likely if the snake ate a meal 1 month ago and has not passed stool since. In that case the animal should be seen by a vet…unfortunately, there is no way to diagnose what if any problems are present without an exam.
Please let me know if you need any further information.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
Ok frank i got one for you. Ive had a pinstripe ball python since May of last year. Since ive had her she has not eattin. She has only lost 56 grams, which i know isnt alot, but im starting to worry. Ive got quite a few more that are housed in the same area of the room and in the same type enclosure that are all eatting just fine. She is not impacted because she pooped about 3 weeks ago. Ive tried every trick i know of, f/t, live, fed in day and night time, seperate box to feed, hamster scented. I will asist feed if its my last option. And sugestions?
about 2 months ago
Hello Jeff,
Thanks for the interesting post. Genetics of the parents can affect fasting; i.e. so that 1 animal fast while others feed at same time/same conditions. However, something else may be going on given the time involved. Passing feces 3 weeks ago despite not having fed since May or earlier is likely an indication of a problem; not possible to hazard a guess as to cause, based on that, but I think a vet exam/radiographs would be a good idea before force-feeding.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
hello,well he finally ate today after 4 monthes.we had to get a rat and put bedding from the mouse enclosure on him to make him smell like a mouse.viola,he ate and agressively i might add.we are just glad he finally ate.he also shed about 2 weeks ago.and now is about 40 inches long,give or take.i understand he will bulk up,what about length?thank you,Chuck Tice
about 2 months ago
Hello Chuck
Thanks for the update and glad to hear the good news…at least he didn’t “insist” on gerbils or other more expensive rodents!
Ball pythons have a very wide natural range, and various populations seem to differ widely in average /maximum size. Most in the trade reach 3-5 feet in length. In various herpetological journals, I’ve read of several 6 footers (most recorded 40+ years ago, in the field, as I recall). There are also a few reports of individuals nearing 7 feet, I’m told, but I have seen the articles/notes firsthand.
Perhaps you’ll enjoy this article on Ball Python Natural History.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
hello,i have an update and a queastion.well he is eating about every two weeks.his last meal was a gerbil.will gerbils upset his system?they are the right size for him,he is very active and gaining weight.we are waiting for the next shed to see if he starts gaining bulk and length.this blog is very helpful.i thought i did enough research,maybe i should do more.all the info is very helpful.thank you.
about 2 months ago
Hello Chuck
Thanks for the kind words. Gerbils are fine, either on occasion or as the sole diet. Gerbils favor the same habitat as ball pythons, and several species occur within their range (although not the pet trade species, which hails from NE Asia)…but just about any rodent will meet their needs. The snake may refuse other foods, however; but if gerbils are hard to come by you can freeze a dead one and use it to scent mice or small rats.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
about 1 month ago
i recently got my wife a female het g stripe ball hd 6/11.we were told she was eating rat pups,would it be ok to give her small gerbils?she is alrready 23 in long,and so pretty.i know we can’t breed them for a couple years.but we can wait.what about sharing an enclosure,since he is so much bigger than she is right now.just making sure.when we breed them i understabd we could get a cluth of normals since he is a normal.maybe a morph?thank you for taking the time to read this,your info has been very helpful.chuck tice
about 1 month ago
Hello Chuck
Thanks for your interest and kind words. Pre-killed gerbils are fine a s a food item, but it may be difficult to switch the snake to mice or small rats in time; some refuse all but certain food.
It’s best to house the sexes separately, and to introduce them during the breeding season. This may not matter, as concerns future breeding, if one is immature, but in general they are solitary animals; close confinement with another, long term, could be stressful.
Most ball pythons have a variety of different color patterns/morphs in their ancestry; unless careful records have been kept for several generations, it’s difficult to predict what the hatchlings will look like…some interesting surprises could be in store…
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 month ago
thank you,that was very helpful
about 1 month ago
Hello Chuck,
Thanks, I’m glad the info was useful.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 4 weeks ago
hi there,chuck again with an update.well,both of our balls ate .they are taking african soft furs,which we are going to start breeding.plus they are kinda cute and fun to watch.just thought i would give you an update.thanks for all the info.
about 4 weeks ago
Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the update and g;lad to hear the good news. Please keep me posted, Enjoy, Frank