Thanks for the kind words. It’s difficult to predict when they will pass stool, although some do fit into patterns, at least for a time. The bowl is likely coincidental. I save jar/coffee can lids and such, which can be used once and disposed of.

Most tortoises defecate shortly after being placed in an inch or 2 of warm water; soaking 2x weekly ensures they are drinking as well, and may reduce waste in terrarium. A 10 minute soak in shallow water (1/3 or less height of shell) is not usually stressful.

Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Thanks for your interest and kind words.

Behavior varies among individuals, but most Russian tortoises learn to tolerate being picked up and moved for a short time. However, being carried about is a stressful situation for an earthbound creature with many predators. They will learn to recognize people as food providers, can learn to navigate mazes, etc., may even approach when people enter the room, and are generally very mild mannered. However, reptiles do not have the capacity to bond to people or appreciate their companionship as might a mammal.. It’s important, I believe, that your son learn about their essential natures – makes for a better experience for both.

They rarely enter water in the wild and will always resist bathing; no real need for it in most circumstances. It can be soaked for 10 min or so in a few inches of water 2x weekly if appears not to be drinking; this will also encourage defecation and simplify terrarium cleaning.

This scutes, or scales, flaking off from the shell are a normal part of the growth process, and minor chips are not a concern. Deeper injuries that expose blood vessels within the shell should be attended by a vet.

Outdoor housing is ideal; just be sure the enclosure is predator proof. This article on indoor enclosures might interest you.

Very good that you have arranged a vet visit. Be sure to speak with the vet and your family doctor concerning hygiene, Salmonella prevention, etc.

Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, I hope you and your son enjoy, and please keep me posted. A happy and healthy holiday to you and yours.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Thanks for the feedback. Russian tortoises can tolerate cool temperatures, but only if able to warm up to an appropriate temperature by day, or if in full hibernation. The basking temperature should ideally be 90-95F, and the cool side of the cage should remain in the low 70’s. A dip into the 60’s at night is ok if the above temps are maintained and the animal is in good health. While they are active at times when temperatures reach only 80 in the wild, by basking they can get much warmer. Try raising the temperatures and see if this has an effect. In captivity, there are factors working against the tortoise – stress, limited diet, etc., so it’s best to keep the immune system functioning at full speed, which requires higher temperatures than those you’ve mentioned.

Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

Thank you as always for your prompt response. I have an overhead lamp that provides heat and UVB that we keep on during daytime hours. The temperature under this lamp is approximately 80′F these days, but as the habitat is in our den the temperature on its cold side never dips below 60.

If it is relevant, that the basking side contains the rocks, and the tortoise is under newspapers on the other end. The food is generally kept in the middle. Thanks again for your guidance.

Thanks for your interest and kind words. Wild Russian Tortoises do hibernate in part of their range. Captives sometimes respond to “internal clocks” and may cease feeding even if kept warm (I’m assuming ambient heat and basking site temperatures are appropriate). This is true of many temperate zone turtles. They usually do fine, even if kept at temperatures well above what they would experience in a true winter. Some begin feeding after a few weeks, others wait until spring.

The burrowing behavior suggests that the turtle is slowing down for the winter, and not sick…Unfortunately, there is no way to be absolutely sure without a vet exam.

Please write me with some details re temperature and UVB. One risk involved in keeping turtles on the cool side during winter is that the immune system slows as well, and parasites/bacteria that were being kept in check can become dangerous to the animal.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.

maybe related to someone’s earlier post, my tortoise is not eating lately. in the 7 months he’s been with us, we have been providing him with a variety of greens including romaine lettuce, kale, dandelion greens, etc. he ate these handily and in fact you had helped me realize we were actually overfeeding him. i then reduced the serving size.

to describe his setup, he is in an indoor area, probably 2ft by 5 ft, 10 inch wood walls with chicken wire above. his area is split into four sections, rocks, two sand/soil mixtures, and newspaper. his favorite spot used to be under that turtle log. about two weeks ago, he burrowed into the newspapers and hasn’t seemed interested in eating since. i took him out once for a bath, but he didn’t defecate and only ate a little. since then, I’ve let him stay burrowed because I thought perhaps he wanted to hibernate. Should I take him to a reptile vet, or is this somehow normal? Thank you for your time.

A small amount of squash (any variety) is fine 1-2x each week; use less peppers, if at all; I’ve read mixed reports on cauliflower and have not used it.

The point to keep in mind is that this species has evolved to survive on a low protein, high fiber diet…lots of volume but low in nutrition, due to the harsh environment it is native to. Fruits and vegetables are rarely available in the wild; grasses and rough vegetation are its main foods, so we need to mimic this. What would seem a “high quality” diet to use will not be digested and lead to illness and death. Some sweet potato, finely chopped, is ok as well.

He is definitely picking through for favorites…tortoises are very good at this, and it can be frustrating. Chop the foods very finely and mix well; soaked tortoise pellets can be mixed in and will form a “mush” that helps bind all together and prevent picking. Don’t be afraid to keep him hungry until he begins to eat everything…fasts will not bother him at all, but a poor diet can be fatal.

Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.

Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.