The Russian or Horsefield’s Tortoise: an Ideal “First Tortoise”?
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Tortoises are among the most highly-desired of reptile pets, but their care is fraught with difficulties, and captive death rates remain surprisingly high. The plucky Russian, Horsefield’s or Central Asian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldi) is often promulgated as an ideal “first tortoise”.
A Cold Hearty Tortoise?
In many regards this is true. Unlike most of its relatives, the little Russian tortoise is quite cold hearty. Its range (three subspecies) extends from the southeastern coast of the Caspian Sea through Kazakhstan to western China and south to Iran, and encompasses some very cold regions. Tortoises living in the north may be active for a mere three months each year.
Living on Little
The Russian tortoise’s adaptation to a Spartan diet also suits it to captivity. Generally, it subsists upon dry grasses, with only limited access to flowers, herbaceous plants and fruits. Individuals in some populations rarely encounter standing water.
Size
Size also recommends the Russian tortoise as a pet…it tops out at 8.8 inches, and many are considerably smaller.
Nearly round in profile, the Russian tortoise is pleasantly colored in light to yellowish brown, and patterned with dark blotches.
Some Cautions
For all of the above reasons, it is a Russian tortoise that is often taken home by those new to tortoise-keeping. Unfortunately, thousands perish each year, often because their owners were initially supplied with misleading advice.
Space and Cage Style
Despite their small size, Russian tortoises are far more active than other reptiles…even the largest of glass aquariums is inadequate. You must think in terms of a 4-6’ x 4-6’ enclosure.
Glass aquariums, unless ventilated via fan, also do not provide sufficient air flow. As humidity rises, respiratory problems are a near certainty.
Ideally, these tortoises should be housed outdoors throughout the warmer months. Outdoor bird aviaries work well, although you may need to install an opaque, plastic barrier along the lower wall edge to prevent climbing. If you must keep your tortoise indoors, a custom-build enclosure is needed (please write in for details).
Environmental Conditions
Indoors or out, Russian tortoises require deep, dry substrates – grass and moist soil will not do. A mix of sandy soil and oyster shell is ideal. If unable to construct nighttime sleeping pallets (excavations), Russian tortoises become stressed and subject to dehydration-related disorders.
Pros and Cons
With proper care, the Russian tortoise can indeed be a most responsive and long-lived pet. However, they are by no means animals to be purchased lightly. Please consider your abilities carefully, and write in if you have any questions whatsoever.
I hesitate to discourage responsible people from keeping these fine animals…tortoises ranging from the tiny South African padloper to the massive giants of Aldabra and the Galapagos Islands have provided me with some of my most memorable herp-keeping experiences. Yet I hesitate to paint too rosy a picture. Please write in regarding your specific situation, and I’ll do my best to advise you appropriately.
The Russian tortoise owner must also take into consideration those other factors critical to the care of all tortoises – diet, UVA/UVB exposure, humidity levels, etc.. We’ll take a look at these and other subjects in future articles. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
Further Reading
Please check out A Complete Guide to Russian Tortoises in our Reptile Books Department.
An interesting article detailing the natural history of Russian tortoises in a harsh environment is published in the journal Ecography at
http://www.bio.usyd.edu.au/Shinelab/staff/xavier/ecography2003.pdf
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about 1 year ago
Just an update, I have changed over to a 3′ by 3′ by 15″ cage with the bottom 6 inches of the cage being a plastic basin. The substrate i’m using is a mix of sand and oyster shells as recommended and I have also gotten a 4′ by 5′ pet pen to let him move around in during the day. He seems to be more active and enjoys the hiding spot provided for him. Thanks again for your help!
about 1 year ago
Hello Travis, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks very much for the update and kind words. I’m glad it is working out, sounds like you have made some very useful changes.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
i have a big question can russian tortoises eat cabbage……. and how many times a day should i feed him
about 1 year ago
Hello Brenda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Cabbage has been implicated in kidney/goiter problems…a small amount once in awhile is ok, but best to avoid. Please see this article on Tortoise Diets for more info.
Meal size/frequency depends upon age, temperature, exercise, genetics and many other factors. Please send me some background details; as a general rule, skip 1-2 days each week, except for hatchlings.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
can tortoise eat turnip leaves
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Turnip leaves are fine to include as part of your tortoise’s diet.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
how many times should a russian tortoise eat a day
about 1 year ago
can i feed my russian tortoise radish leaves
about 1 year ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Radish leaves are fine to use as part of the diet.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Meal size and frequency depends upon age, size, temperature, UVB exposure, cage size and set-up, exercise, genetics and many other factors. Please send me some background details and I’ll provide some general guidelines.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
ok i believe he is 8years old …. about 5 inches …… the temperature is 95 degrees F…… cage size is 10×12 ….. i let him excersize by walking around in my room every 3x a week . I hope thts enough info to see how many times he should eat a day
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. Feed once daily, but skip a day or 2 each week; you’ll need to experiment with amounts – he shouldn’t finish it all in a few minutes, there should be a bit leftover after an hour or so. 95 F is actually too warm as a constant temperature – ideally, the cage should range from 75-82, with a basking spot of 95 or so. This is one reason why a large cage is needed – in a small area, the basking light will over-heat the whole cage. Aquariums of any size are equally bad, as they overheat and provide inadequate ventilation. Outside exercise is a great idea, but you should try to arrange a larger cage in time. Please see this article for information on an excellent homemade type cage .
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
The plates of my russian tortoise’s shell appear to be separating, with a light green shade in between them. I generally feed him romaine lettuce and zoo med feed. Is this change to his shell simply how it looks as it grows along with him, or is there some deficiency in his diet or general care that could be causing this? There is no pyramiding, but I’d obviously like to avoid this if it’s the road he’s headed down. Thank you.
about 1 year ago
Hello Ben, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Spaces between the plates/scutes does typically indicate overfeeding; the diet you describe is also not likely providing adequate nutrition. Zoo Med Grassland Tortoise diet can be used as a portion of the diet, especially for adults, but I would scale back on it slowly for now and replace with a variety of greens in addition to the romaine – collards, kale, small amounts of bok choy, dandelion, endive, etc. Avoid cabbage and related plants. Wild grasses and “weeds” are best as long as poisonous species are avoided and they are pesticide free…please see this article for further info on foods and supplements. Please keep in mind that Russian Tortoises are adapted to what seems to us to be a very low quality diet – high in fiber, very low in protein, almost no fruit.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
hello my russian tortoise just pooped white liquid is that bad …. and wht is it
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Tortoises pass their waste products in solid and liquid form; the appearance varies with diet and the amount of water taken in. White liquid is usually a normal passage of urates.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
oh ok thnk u frank
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
My pleasure…
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
can i feed my russian tortoise spring onion …. please let me know as soon as possible
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your note. Not much info on onions or their leaves; I would not use the onion itself, and suspect that the leaves would not be accepted – many animals seem to avoid them.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
can my russian tortoise eat broccoli
about 1 year ago
Hello Nubia, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again. Broccoli can be offered in small amounts, but there is some evidence that it interferes with calcium absorption (as does cabbage and related plants).
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 12 months ago
My russian tortoise wont eat anything, it’s been over a week. We thought maybe we gave him too many tomatoes and so we stopped and now he wont eat his once beloved kale. (he wasn’t eating it with the tomatoes either) What could be wrong? What other signs can we look for? He is 6 years old and we bought him back in november and we have been treating him the way the people said to, so nothing has been new.
about 12 months ago
Hello Anna, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Unfortunately, not feeding is typical in just about every ailment that a tortoise can have – intestinal blockage, bacterial infection, etc. – so it’s not possible to make a diagnosis based on that. A vet visit is the only way to find out what is wrong; please let me know if you need help in locating a reptile vet in your area.
We can also review diet and general care; please send me some details as to temperature, UVB exposure, size of cage and diet, as each will affect its health. Please check this article on diet as well; as you’ll see, tomatoes are not a good food to use regularly and kale alone is not sufficient.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
Good Morning, So I offered my tortoise kale this morning mixed with romaine and I swear he is picking through it to just get the romaine. I was reading on a blog and it recommended yellow peppers, squash and cooked cauliflower, I was wondering what you thought about adding these item into his diet and if so what kind of squash???
about 10 months ago
Hello Monica, Frank Indiviglio here.
A small amount of squash (any variety) is fine 1-2x each week; use less peppers, if at all; I’ve read mixed reports on cauliflower and have not used it.
The point to keep in mind is that this species has evolved to survive on a low protein, high fiber diet…lots of volume but low in nutrition, due to the harsh environment it is native to. Fruits and vegetables are rarely available in the wild; grasses and rough vegetation are its main foods, so we need to mimic this. What would seem a “high quality” diet to use will not be digested and lead to illness and death. Some sweet potato, finely chopped, is ok as well.
He is definitely picking through for favorites…tortoises are very good at this, and it can be frustrating. Chop the foods very finely and mix well; soaked tortoise pellets can be mixed in and will form a “mush” that helps bind all together and prevent picking. Don’t be afraid to keep him hungry until he begins to eat everything…fasts will not bother him at all, but a poor diet can be fatal.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
Dear Frank,
maybe related to someone’s earlier post, my tortoise is not eating lately. in the 7 months he’s been with us, we have been providing him with a variety of greens including romaine lettuce, kale, dandelion greens, etc. he ate these handily and in fact you had helped me realize we were actually overfeeding him. i then reduced the serving size.
to describe his setup, he is in an indoor area, probably 2ft by 5 ft, 10 inch wood walls with chicken wire above. his area is split into four sections, rocks, two sand/soil mixtures, and newspaper. his favorite spot used to be under that turtle log. about two weeks ago, he burrowed into the newspapers and hasn’t seemed interested in eating since. i took him out once for a bath, but he didn’t defecate and only ate a little. since then, I’ve let him stay burrowed because I thought perhaps he wanted to hibernate. Should I take him to a reptile vet, or is this somehow normal? Thank you for your time.
about 6 months ago
Hello Ben, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest and kind words. Wild Russian Tortoises do hibernate in part of their range. Captives sometimes respond to “internal clocks” and may cease feeding even if kept warm (I’m assuming ambient heat and basking site temperatures are appropriate). This is true of many temperate zone turtles. They usually do fine, even if kept at temperatures well above what they would experience in a true winter. Some begin feeding after a few weeks, others wait until spring.
The burrowing behavior suggests that the turtle is slowing down for the winter, and not sick…Unfortunately, there is no way to be absolutely sure without a vet exam.
Please write me with some details re temperature and UVB. One risk involved in keeping turtles on the cool side during winter is that the immune system slows as well, and parasites/bacteria that were being kept in check can become dangerous to the animal.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 6 months ago
Dear Frank,
Thank you as always for your prompt response. I have an overhead lamp that provides heat and UVB that we keep on during daytime hours. The temperature under this lamp is approximately 80′F these days, but as the habitat is in our den the temperature on its cold side never dips below 60.
If it is relevant, that the basking side contains the rocks, and the tortoise is under newspapers on the other end. The food is generally kept in the middle. Thanks again for your guidance.
about 6 months ago
Hello Ben, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback. Russian tortoises can tolerate cool temperatures, but only if able to warm up to an appropriate temperature by day, or if in full hibernation. The basking temperature should ideally be 90-95F, and the cool side of the cage should remain in the low 70’s. A dip into the 60’s at night is ok if the above temps are maintained and the animal is in good health. While they are active at times when temperatures reach only 80 in the wild, by basking they can get much warmer. Try raising the temperatures and see if this has an effect. In captivity, there are factors working against the tortoise – stress, limited diet, etc., so it’s best to keep the immune system functioning at full speed, which requires higher temperatures than those you’ve mentioned.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 5 months ago
Hi Frank I bought my son a Russian tortoises for Christmas last week I have her hiding in my room lol. She is 3 years old and so far is eating sleeping well. I have got lots of info from your blogs ty for doing that. She seems a little aggressive when I go to feed her or lift her out to excercise she hisses a bit . Do you think she will settle down and learn to trust us? Looking at photos her shell is not as shining as others I’ve seen I have bathed her.to which she did not like either.I’ve found a chip gone out of her shell I rang the pet shop he said it’s just from her knocking off things and she is fine. She is going to the vets in January hope all will be well.I can’t wait for my son to see her Christmas day and am so looking forward to building her outdoor pen with Shane .and thanks to you I hope to make it just right thanks again for all the info xx
about 5 months ago
Hello Lorraine
Thanks for your interest and kind words.
Behavior varies among individuals, but most Russian tortoises learn to tolerate being picked up and moved for a short time. However, being carried about is a stressful situation for an earthbound creature with many predators. They will learn to recognize people as food providers, can learn to navigate mazes, etc., may even approach when people enter the room, and are generally very mild mannered. However, reptiles do not have the capacity to bond to people or appreciate their companionship as might a mammal.. It’s important, I believe, that your son learn about their essential natures – makes for a better experience for both.
They rarely enter water in the wild and will always resist bathing; no real need for it in most circumstances. It can be soaked for 10 min or so in a few inches of water 2x weekly if appears not to be drinking; this will also encourage defecation and simplify terrarium cleaning.
This scutes, or scales, flaking off from the shell are a normal part of the growth process, and minor chips are not a concern. Deeper injuries that expose blood vessels within the shell should be attended by a vet.
Outdoor housing is ideal; just be sure the enclosure is predator proof. This article on indoor enclosures might interest you.
Very good that you have arranged a vet visit. Be sure to speak with the vet and your family doctor concerning hygiene, Salmonella prevention, etc.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, I hope you and your son enjoy, and please keep me posted. A happy and healthy holiday to you and yours.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 4 months ago
Hey frank,thanks for your kind wishes for the holidays,the same to you and yours,thanks for the advice you have given me,i will be sure to help shane with all i have learned from you.i fed maggie today my pet name for her until shane names her himself,i sat and watched for awhile guess what she did.she ate her food,then climbed in her dish and went to the toilet.i cleaned up put the food bowl back in went down to get more food and yes u guessed it she done it again.any advice???? i dont undrstand it because up until now she only went toilet when i took her out.i just dont like the idea of her doing that.ill have to watch her when eating now.god how silly do i sound lol.i know she has to go but her food dish really?? ty again, merry christmas frank xx
about 4 months ago
Hello Lorraine,
Thanks for the kind words. It’s difficult to predict when they will pass stool, although some do fit into patterns, at least for a time. The bowl is likely coincidental. I save jar/coffee can lids and such, which can be used once and disposed of.
Most tortoises defecate shortly after being placed in an inch or 2 of warm water; soaking 2x weekly ensures they are drinking as well, and may reduce waste in terrarium. A 10 minute soak in shallow water (1/3 or less height of shell) is not usually stressful.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 3 months ago
hey Frank, i bought my russian tortoises in november and they get along well, they eat, well but i have never seen them drink or soak in the water. their water bowl still goes down. I did however buy a terrarium, the biggest the store had, and i now know this is bad i was wondering what i could do to make their habitat more pleasurable for them. i have a box that they can go inside and they seem to enjoy it but besides that all i have is a food and water bowl
about 3 months ago
Hello Kevin
Thanks for your interest. In the wild, Greek Tortoises get most of their water from food for much of the year. Yours may be doing the same, but I always play it safe by soaking them for 20 minutes or so once weekly. Place them in a plastic container or bucket in 1-3” of warm water; they will usually drink and will likely defecate as well. The will try to escape once they drink, so make sure container can hold them.
There’s not much that can be done in a terrarium; enrichment is easiest to supply in the form of novel foods…whole dandelion plants, etc., or via time out of the cage in a safe room. Check out the link to the Table Top Pen in this article; it’s a great cage that can be built at home (if your skills exceed mine!). Zoo Med’s Tortoise Home and Tortoise Playpen are also worth considering.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 months ago
I have owned desert tortoises for 16 yrs. My cousin has a Russian tortoise he wants to give me so he has a backyard to roam in. My tortoise has respiratory problems all her life. Will the Russian catch it or can they share other health problems. If they are kept separate but share backyard at different times we they pass diseases through their environment. Will they try to mate?
about 2 months ago
Hello
Thanks for your interest. The two should not be kept together; related species from different parts of the world may carry micro-organisms that are relatively harmless to one but dangerous to the other (similar to tourists becoming ill after drinking tap water in foreign countries). They may also pass respiratory and other diseases, and the 2 species will try to mate. Sharing the same yard at different times can be a problem, as parasites, bacteria may become established it the substrate. It may work if they are in different parts of the yard, in which case airborne transmission would be the only concern. I can send along info as to that if it would be helpful…please send along some details as to yard size, type of respiratory disease etc.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.