The Russian or Horsefield’s Tortoise: an Ideal “First Tortoise”?
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Tortoises are among the most highly-desired of reptile pets, but their care is fraught with difficulties, and captive death rates remain surprisingly high. The plucky Russian, Horsefield’s or Central Asian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldi) is often promulgated as an ideal “first tortoise”.
A Cold Hearty Tortoise?
In many regards this is true. Unlike most of its relatives, the little Russian tortoise is quite cold hearty. Its range (three subspecies) extends from the southeastern coast of the Caspian Sea through Kazakhstan to western China and south to Iran, and encompasses some very cold regions. Tortoises living in the north may be active for a mere three months each year.
Living on Little
The Russian tortoise’s adaptation to a Spartan diet also suits it to captivity. Generally, it subsists upon dry grasses, with only limited access to flowers, herbaceous plants and fruits. Individuals in some populations rarely encounter standing water.
Size
Size also recommends the Russian tortoise as a pet…it tops out at 8.8 inches, and many are considerably smaller.
Nearly round in profile, the Russian tortoise is pleasantly colored in light to yellowish brown, and patterned with dark blotches.
Some Cautions
For all of the above reasons, it is a Russian tortoise that is often taken home by those new to tortoise-keeping. Unfortunately, thousands perish each year, often because their owners were initially supplied with misleading advice.
Space and Cage Style
Despite their small size, Russian tortoises are far more active than other reptiles…even the largest of glass aquariums is inadequate. You must think in terms of a 4-6’ x 4-6’ enclosure.
Glass aquariums, unless ventilated via fan, also do not provide sufficient air flow. As humidity rises, respiratory problems are a near certainty.
Ideally, these tortoises should be housed outdoors throughout the warmer months. Outdoor bird aviaries work well, although you may need to install an opaque, plastic barrier along the lower wall edge to prevent climbing. If you must keep your tortoise indoors, a custom-build enclosure is needed (please write in for details).
Environmental Conditions
Indoors or out, Russian tortoises require deep, dry substrates – grass and moist soil will not do. A mix of sandy soil and oyster shell is ideal. If unable to construct nighttime sleeping pallets (excavations), Russian tortoises become stressed and subject to dehydration-related disorders.
Pros and Cons
With proper care, the Russian tortoise can indeed be a most responsive and long-lived pet. However, they are by no means animals to be purchased lightly. Please consider your abilities carefully, and write in if you have any questions whatsoever.
I hesitate to discourage responsible people from keeping these fine animals…tortoises ranging from the tiny South African padloper to the massive giants of Aldabra and the Galapagos Islands have provided me with some of my most memorable herp-keeping experiences. Yet I hesitate to paint too rosy a picture. Please write in regarding your specific situation, and I’ll do my best to advise you appropriately.
The Russian tortoise owner must also take into consideration those other factors critical to the care of all tortoises – diet, UVA/UVB exposure, humidity levels, etc.. We’ll take a look at these and other subjects in future articles. Until then, please write in with your questions and comments. Thanks, Frank Indiviglio.
Further Reading
Please check out A Complete Guide to Russian Tortoises in our Reptile Books Department.
An interesting article detailing the natural history of Russian tortoises in a harsh environment is published in the journal Ecography at
http://www.bio.usyd.edu.au/Shinelab/staff/xavier/ecography2003.pdf
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about 2 years ago
Hello.
I am curious as to what is the ideal diet, of a Russian Desert Tortoise. I have heard many things from different sites or books on what to feed it, and what not to feed it. Each site and or book has its own ideas. I understand feeding it certain foods can give it certain problems. I am curious as to which foods do what, in regards to health, and damage.
about 2 years ago
Hello Malik, Frank Indiviglio here. Thanks for your interest in our blog.There is indeed a great deal of conflicting information available as regards the feeding of tortoises. While there is some flexibility as concerns diet (i.e. based on local differences in produce availability), there are some general rules that should be followed, and, unfortunately, a good deal of misinformation finds its way onto the internet. Dietary requirements also differ greatly among the various tortoise species…for example, a diet which is ideal for a red-footed tortoise would be devastating to a Russian tortoise.
Horsefield’s or Russian tortoises have evolved to consume a diet that is high in fiber and calcium and low in protein and fat. In the wild, they feed almost exclusively on grasses, herbaceous plants and flowers, with fruit rarely available to most populations.
In captivity, commonly offered foods such as beans, and dog and cat food should be avoided; fruit is not necessary, although a very small amount each 10 days or so, during the summer only, is fine as a treat (berries, apple, pears).
In the summer, I use native grasses, weeds, flowers and plants for 75-85% of the diet of these and other grassland tortoises…in outdoor zoo exhibit this amount approaches 100%. The following are some native and introduced wild plants that can be used:
• Dandelion (Taraxacum officianale)
• Hawkbits (Leontodon spp.)
• Sowthistles (Sonchus spp.)
• Hawkweeds (Pictis spp.)
• Hawkbeards (Crepis spp.)
• Plantains (Plantago spp.)
• Clovers (Trifolium spp.)
• Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum)
• Cat's ears (Hypochoeris spp.)
• Vetches (Vicina spp.)
• Trefoils (Lotus spp.)
• Mallows (Malva spp.)
• Bindweeds (Calystegia spp.)
• Sedums (Sedum spp.)
• Ivy-leaved Toadflax (Cymbalaria muralis)
• Robinia (pseudo-acacia) leaves
• Wild clematis
• Acanthus
• Nettles
• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) leaves, stems and flowers.
• Red clover (Trifolium pratence) leaves, stems & flowers
• White clover (Trifolium repens) leaves, stems and flowers.
• Greater Plantain (Plantago media)
• Ribgrass or Ribwart Plantian (Plantago lancealata)
• Smooth Sow Thistle (Sonchus ol¬eraceus) leaves, stems & flowers
• Prickly Sow Thistle (Sonchus as¬per)
• White-Dead Nettle * (Lamilim al¬bum)
• Red-Dead Nettle (Lamium pupureum)
• Chickweed * (Stelaria media)
• Smooth hawks-beard (Crepis cap¬illoris) leaves & flower
• Hedge mustard (Sisymbrium offl¬cinale) young plants
• Bramble (Rubus fruticosus) shoots, eaves & fruit.
Please see my article on Toxic Plants for a list of species that may be potentially harmful to tortoises.
The balance of the diet is comprised of seasonally available greens such as kale, endive, dandelion, squash (small amounts) and romaine (chop up thick stems and add to the salad). Other greens can be added, but avoid spinach, bok choy and iceberg lettuce.
Zoo Med’s Grassland Tortoise Diet is specifically formulated for Russian and related tortoises, and can comprise up to 30% of the diet in winter or summer (hydrate it before using).
During the winter, their diet consists of 70-75% commercially available greens and 25-30% Zoo Med Grassland Tortoise Diet. Grated yams and carrot can be offered once weekly as a treat. Some native plants freeze well, and can be stored for winter use.
I add Reptocal to all meals provided to growing tortoises, and 3x weekly for adults. A cuttlebone is always available as well…not all tortoises will use this, but keep one in their enclosure just in case. Water should always be available, or the tortoises can be soaked on alternate days, during which time they will drink heavily.
Russian and other tortoises will not be able to properly metabolize calcium or digest other nutrients unless provided with a warm basking site and high levels of UVB (I suggest either the Zoo Med 10.0 bulb or a mercury vapor bulb).
Please let me know if you need further in formation.
Good luck, enjoy your tortoise and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
i have3year old horsefield can you tell me if i need any heat source at night has i keep him in shed and nights starting to get cold i use uv and basking lamp 12hrs by day
about 2 years ago
Hello Paul, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Please let me know what temperatures your tortoise will be exposed to…this would allow me to make a more specific recommendation. In general, healthy Horsefield’s tortoises are fine with a dip to 59-60 F at night, as long as they can warm up during the day. Some individuals will go off feed, however, as the seasons change. This is not a problem for animals in good weight (they should be offered water throughout the winter).
You can also allow the tortoise to hibernate, but this can be a bit tricky; I wouldn’t recommend it.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
Do you bathe the Russian Tortoise? How often?
about 2 years ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
It is a good idea to soak the tortoise once each week. Use 2-3 inches of warm water (the tortoise should be standing, not swimming) and leave it there for 20 minutes or so. This will encourage the tortoise to drink and to defecate.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
hey!! i am just like you and i found http://www.russiantortoises.org really helpfull. you can also watch youtube videos they helped me out a lot.
about 2 years ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
I wasn’t able to reach the web site that you mentioned…perhaps a problem with the address?
I look forward to your future comments,
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
are there any special need sfor hibernatoin like wat you have to do wat do i do
about 2 years ago
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
There’s no need to specifically lower the temperature for your tortoise, but the care you should give it over the winter varies a bit depending on what temperature it is being kept at, and how it behaves and feeds. Please write back with some specifics about your tortoise and I’ll be happy to send along some ideas.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 2 years ago
I just got a little horsefield for christmas I live in ireland so it isnt always the warmest here! Could you please give me some tips on the ideal habitat and diet for her. She is quite shy around people now will he grow out of that?? Thanks!
about 2 years ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Merry Christmas and Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Please see my article Feeding Mediterranean Tortoises for further information on diet. As for a habitat, open topped wood/screen enclosures are superior to glass terrariums. For instructions on building a very simple one that is ideally suited for your tortoise, please see Building an Open Top Enclosure for Tortoises.
Personality varies a great deal – give the tortoise time to adjust and a place to hide for the time being. Eventually, most become quite bold and confiding.
Russian Tortoises sometimes slow down in winter, even if kept warm. Please write back if you have further questions or if your tortoise appears lethargic.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
We have a six month old Russian Desert tortoise. We just found a small egg shaped soft thing that you can kind of see through opaic white in it’s water dish. Could this be an egg? She seems very young she is only 2 inches. What do you think it might be?
If it is an egg what should we do with it? There is no male in withe her.
about 1 year ago
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Tortoises sometimes pass partially developed eggs if they have not mated or something short-circuits development, but this would be extremely unlikely in one so young as yours…rapid development can occur in tortoises fed high protein diets(an unhealthy situation) – please write back if you have an questions in that regard.
Another possibility is that the material an extra large bolus of uric acid that was retained and finally passed – as it was deposited in the water, this might change its appearance. Be sure your tortoise is drinking so that it passes uric acid in smaller amounts, more frequently. Soaking 1-2x weekly is a good way of assuring that the tortoise remains hydrated.
A host of internal problems – injuries, blockages, etc. could lead to the expulsion of scar tissue and other material, but this does not seem likely based on your note. If it happens again, perhaps consider having an experienced veterinarian analyze a sample.
Good luck and please let me know if you need further info.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Thanks so much for your help and advice! He’s really great now , really come out of his shell, he even sleeps beside the dog, he sleeps inside and when its warm roams about in the garden and loves to dig!His main diet consists of lettuce, dandelions and celery is thsi suitable??
about 1 year ago
Hello Christin, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for writing back – I’m very glad to hear that the advice was helpful and your tortoise is doing well.
I would make some changes in the diet, as Russian tortoises have very specific needs. Iceberg lettuce should not be given, but Romaine is fine…celery is okay in small amounts as it is high in fiber but low in nutrients. You’ll need to add much more variety, however – please check out my article Feeding Mediterranean and Russian Tortoises for a complete description of a healthful diet, and then write back with any questions you might have.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hi,
we got a horsfield tortoise 5 days ago, she is still getting used to her enclosure and us obviously but is setting in really well. When we go to the doors she comes over to see us and waits for us to pick her up, she also likes going in water and having a drink and blowing bubbles HeHe!! But the only problem is we dont really no what to feed her which will be best for her, we put in options of carrot, watercress leaves and sliced cucumber but she didnt have any of it, what would you suggest? As noticed in what to feed them you mentioned alot of weeds but how do you tell them apart from the ones your not ment to give them!!
Thanks xx
about 1 year ago
Hello Sami, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Tortoises in general can be very picky, but they usually come around in time. Russian tortoises often slow down their feeding during the winter, even when kept warm…this may also be part of what you are seeing.
I wouldn’t offer too much carrot and cucumber – try as varied a mix as is possible, using fibrous greens as the basis of the diet – kale, endive; see Feeding Russian Tortoises for other options. Anything seasonally available can also be tried – radish greens, bok choy, collard and mustard greens etc. Mix everything together rather than offering seperately and chop finely, so that it will be harder for the tortoise to choose favorites. Be sure to mix in Grassland Tortoise Diet as well, so that the animal gets used to eating it along with greens. Grated sweet potato sometimes sparks them to feed – mix in well.
As for weeds, etc. use only those form the list that you can ID – dandelion is easy and they like it – the flowers are a real favorite when available. There are a number of good field guides to native plants, some even titled “Weeds” (Audubon, Golden, etc), which can help.
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Best not to handle the tortoise too much until it is feeding regularly…they can be very responsive, but (sorry!) are more interested in what you feed them than being picked up…but some handling is fine once it has adjusted. A secure hiding spot will also help the tortoise to settle in – even bold individuals need this.
Please let me know if it does not eat after a time, and we can review temperature, etc.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
hi frank
we brought Tilly horsefield tortoise in june 2007 weighing 45grams size 7x8cm she is now 400grams and 165.5×15.3 3years later she is very active and frendly
is her weight and growth ok
yvonne
about 1 year ago
Hello Yvonne, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
Their growth varies widely – the rate may depend upon where in the range the tortoise (or it’s parents) originated, However, what you describe sounds fine – seems like you have done a fine job! A good way to keep tabs on growth is to watch for shell deformities, especially high, pointed scutes (known as pyramiding) – this indicated nutritional problems, overly rapid growth. Please feel free to send info on the diet – sometimes nutritional deficiencies take years to manifest themselves.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
about 1 year ago
Hi Frank, I find your info very useful but am still stuck on one thing, last week my sister got a 8-10 month old Horsefield Tortoise then a few days later I purchased the other one the seller had in the same tank who we were advised was a month younger, the older one of the two has been very active, eating, walking around a lot, where the younger one has yet to be seen eating, this morning I have noticed they are both out but nor near the food supply (I put fresh in about an hour ago so it’s not gone stale already) they are having a mix of cabbage leaves, broccoli, dandelion leaves and tortoise supplement, today I have put a little strawberry and their leaves to entice the younger one to try.
I have now got some digital scales to monitor both weights to ensure they are gaining at an equal rate but is there anything else you think I am missing out?
about 1 year ago
Hello Nic, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback and kind words.
Moving is traumatic for many tortoises, as they are very aware of their environments; a secure shelter is vital and should help it in adjusting; avoid handling the new animal for now and check that it is not being intimidated by the other.
Broccoli and kale are not always favored, and also should not comprise the bulk of the diet, try mixing in some of the produce listed in Feeding Russian Tortoises. Dandelion flowers are great favorites, a good source of nutrition and are abundant in many areas this month.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hi again,
I probably should have mentioned before that I am in the UK and have never seen most the items listed in the “Feeding” section in local shops and pet shops only seem to sell the pellets, we were advised to use salad leaves but keep away from iceberg lettuce, are spinach, rocket, cucumber, cabbage, carrot and melon any good.
new update, I saw mine out not long ago eating a bit of cabbage leaf so am happier now, I think it may just be the time of day she comes out.
about 1 year ago
Hello Nic, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for the feedback; hopefully the tortoise is settling in. Almost any locally available salad green would be fine, outside of iceberg and spinach (spinach may lead to stone formation in some species). Carrot and shredded yam or sweet potato is also fine; as are grass clippings; mix in some of the tortoise pellets as well. Use melon/fruit only if necessary to induce feeding, basically they need high fiber, course vegetables/greens. Some cucumber is fine. A field guide may help you ID native plants (most listed in the article are found in the UK) if collecting is an option for you.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hi Frank,
Just bought Tilly our horsefield today, the guy in the petshop advised a 2ft viv with basking lamp, uv lamp and heat mat stuck on the back of the viv.
I see you recommend the open top type of enclosure, but only noticed this great site since purchasing Tilly, will she be ok if we keep the viv but open the front doors in the day?
I am going to make some climbing rockery etc tonight for her based on your ideas for habitat.
Any first week tips would be appreciated.
Many thanks,
Kyle, Manchester, UK.
about 1 year ago
Hello Kyle, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog and the kind words, much appreciated.
Unfortunately opening the doors will not do much in the way of alleviating humidity and other problems that arise when tortoises are housed in glass tanks. A rabbit/guinea pig type enclosure is useful, but best to use one equipped with a deep plastic tray so that the tortoise does not try to climb the bars – something along the lines of this model would work for a small individual. Homemade cages are best as the tortoise matures, as you can theoretically provide more room.
A shelter or cave for hiding should be provided.
Depending upon the lamp model, keep the UVB bulb within 12 inches or so of the tortoise. The heat mat will most likely not be needed – keep in mind that there should be a temperature gradient between the basking site and the rest of the cage (i.e. 75-90 F); a dip in temperature at night s fine, the heat mat might be used during winter for nighttime warmth.
Diet is critical, and not always well-understood by sellers – please see my article on Russian Tortoise Diets for more info.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
My granddaughter just moved in with me with her Russian Desert Tortoise. It is not eating & it is turning more & more yellow. It is always next to the heater. I’m told it needs more heat, but I read it can be between 70 to 90 degrees. The tortoise is 1 1/2 yr. old & female, lives in glass aquarium. Plus can you help with its diet. She only feeds it kale & I see that’s not great.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Shelley, Maryland, USA
about 1 year ago
Hello Shelly, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. I’m glad you wrote in…there s quite a bit to the care of Russian Tortoises – they are hardy as tortoises go, but delicate pets.
As you’ve read, Glass tanks make poor enclosures; a small animal cage is a better choice, although even these do not provide enough room; check out this plan for building an excellent table-top cage; another option is to provide regular exercise in a large, secure area, indoors or out.
70-90 F represents the active range; the tortoise needs a basking site of 90-95 F, plus the ability to move off into a cooler area (70-80, nite-time can dip a bit); this is another reason why large, airy enclosures are needed – aquariums do not provide the option to thermo-regulate.
The tortoise will also need daily UVB light – without this it cannot produce Vitamin D to metabolize calcium; it will live for a few years, but expire long before the 50+ year long natural lifespan. The zoo med 10.0 UVB is ideal (note – it does not provide heat) if you can position it within 12” of the animal. Longer-range bulbs provide heat and UVB.
Kale is a great food item but variety is critical; please see this article on Russian Tortoise diets for more info on foods and supplements (chopping new foods finely and mixing in with kale will help ensure that the tortoise consumes all).
Quite an involved prospect, I realize, but such is the nature of tortoise keeping; your granddaughter was likely not informed of all the details when she purchased the animal – unfortunately, this is typical.
Please write in if you need more info.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 1 year ago
Hi,
We have a 2 year old Horsfield tortoise called Tilly, and she keeps catching her head. About a month ago, she took a scale off the top of her head, and we dont know how. The Vet gave us some iodine to dilute and apply to the wound. It started to heal but she still seems to be catching it on something. We often find her with the scab off and the sore bleeding. We have found this really distressing and had her back to the vets. They gave us some wound gel but she still bleeds from the sore every other day. We had thought she may be catching her head on her shell but the Vet said there is enough clearance. We have checked the large stones in her table, in case she has tried to burrow under them, but there is no sign of blood.
We found this website while searching for advice about what could be causing it.
Tilly lives in an open top crate, approx. 120x 50cms, and 35 cms deep. It is half depth full of a mix of 25% fine sand and 75%top soil. She has a burrow at one end, made from 2 stones and a piece of wood across the top. She has a small selection of stones to climb over. She has clean water daily and has a diet of dandelions, kale, broccoli, romaine lettuce and cucumber (which is her favourite). She has a bath twice a week, during which she drinks and urinates.
Please tell us if there is anything we are not doing properly or need to change? We have had her 4 and a half months, and love her so much, she’s a real character,
Thanks for any advice you can give,
Steve and Jane Thwaites
about 1 year ago
Hello Steve and Jane, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog.
A few possibilities come to mind:
Could the tortoise be falling over when climbing rocks? …using its head to flip back would worsen the injury. Also, blood traces may be difficult to find on stones…climbing is good exercise, but perhaps remove for now.
If the crate is wooden, perhaps he is rubbing while trying to “dig through” the sides?
There’s always a chance that bacteria/fungi may have become established at the wound site, and are delaying the healing process.. a swab/culture would be needed; or perhaps a general antibiotic cream (if cream you have now is not medicated).
I have had situations where reptiles have been bandaged…your vet would need to decide if this is a useful option, and attach a suitable covering (difficult on top of head).
Just a few other notes…I assume you are providing UVB? This, and a suitably warm basking spot, will keep the immune system working properly. The varied diet you describe is fine; adding seasonally available produce and native grasses (clover) and others as mentioned in this article on Diet, if available, is a good idea; a bit of yam also. Don’t rely too heavily on romaine, cucumber. Commercial pellets are not necessary if you vary diet, but please see note in article re supplements. Some tortoises will nibble cuttlebone, which is an excellent calcium source.
Good luck and please let me know if you need more info…it’s very useful for myself and my readers to follow case histories, so please update me if possible,
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 12 months ago
Hi Frank,
Just to keep you up to date, we were advised by our local vet to take Tilly to a specialist. The Specialist, Siuna, said Tilly was grossly underweight, and they took ablood sample for testing. The sore on the top of her head was through to her skull!! She was admitted to their hospital for an operation for a feeding tube to be fitted going in by her neck into her stomach, and a blood test was taken. The bloodtest showed a severe blood infection, with low white bloodcell count. The tube was fine for a few days, once she came home, until she pulled it out!! As a nurse, I attempted to refit it but it would not go. Tilly had started eating and Siuna said to leave the tube out if she is eating. We have to give Tilly antibiotic injections every 3 days and bathe her twice a day. She has an iodine/povidine solution to dilute and apply to her head, and the bleeding by her joints is a symptom of the blood infection. We are trying to encourage her to eat but, according to Siuna, Horsfields wont eat if they are too hot or too cold. We are trying to keep her warm and she has perked up a little, and we took her back today, she has put a little weight on. We just need to keep on with daily bathing and injections and encourage feeding.
Here’s hoping. Hope this update provides sufficient info.
Jane Thwaites
about 12 months ago
Thanks very much for the update; it’s very useful to be able to track such treatments, as we still have a great deal to learn about reptile medicine.
Sounds like your vet has it well in hand. Be sure to provide UVB radiation as well, as this is essential if the tortoise is to manufacture vitamin D3 and utilize dietary calcium. There is also evidence that UVA may help in maintaining the immune system. The type of bulb you use, and its distance from the tortoise, is very important. Please let me know of you need further info on this.
Good luck and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
I have a healthy Russian Desert tortoise and am housing him in a 55 gallon tank with moistened shredded coconut husk that is bought in brick form for substrate. I am going to buy a similar sized animal cage but need to know what the ideal substrate and other items I might need to include in his new home are. I have the proper heating and lighting and his feeding is fairly in tune with the recommended diet. Any recommendations for his tank are greatly appreciated! Thanks.
about 10 months ago
Hello Travis, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. I would avoid coconut husk – too dusty, especially in the confines of an aquarium, and tends to stick to food. Pine bark is a much better choice (cheaper at garden supply shops than pet stores).
Also, keep the substrate dry at all times or you risk respiratory, fungal and other problems. Provide a water bowl for soaking – you can leave in place or just soak the tortoise 2-3x weekly if it continually spills the water.
Good idea to use a cage…aquariums are not at all suitable; none are large enough, and air flow restriction is a severe problem. If possible, you should aim for a cage at least twice the size of a 55 gallon aquarium; smaller may be ok if the animal gets plenty of outdoor exercise. Homemade cages are often preferable, and less expensive even if you need to hire someone to do the work; please let me know if you need details. Tortoises sometimes incessantly climb the screen sides of animal cages. You may need to install a wood/plastic barrier along the lower border to prevent this.
Be sure to include a secure hide spot; tortoises also like to push below large plastic plants or leaf piles, so add these from time to time.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
I need to know this assoon as possible can a russian tortoise eat celery
about 10 months ago
Hello Brenda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. Celery will not harm your tortoise, but it does not have very much nutritional value (mainly water and some fiber), and so is best avoided.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
does a russian tortoise need a uvb light …………… and do russian tortois hibernate
about 10 months ago
Hello Brenda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Nice to hear from you again. UVB is critical to the health of all tortoises. You can use a high output florescent bulb positioned within 6-12 inches of the animal, or a mercury vapor bulb (this emits heat as well) for greater distances. Natural sunlight is the best source, but keep in mind that window glass filters out the beneficial UVB rays, so it must be direct.
In most parts of their range, Russian Tortoises do hibernate. Captives often slow down their feeding in winter even if kept warm, but some continue to feed well all winter.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
how do u figure out how ur russain tortoise is bcuz i just got one like 2 weeks ago and i dont know how old he is
about 10 months ago
Hello Brenda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your note. Tortoises lay down growth rings on each scute (scale on the upper and lower shell), similar to growth rings on trees. You can estimate the age of wild tortoises by counting the rings on one scale, as 1 is produced each year or so on average. However, captives generally eat more than wild ones, and do not hibernate, so more than 1 ring may be produced each year. Size is not reliable either, as it depends greatly upon diet, health and temperature.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
wht kind of bedding is best for russain tortoises and how much can a russian tortoise eat a day and how many times a day should they eat
about 10 months ago
Hello, Frank Indiviglio here.
Thanks for your interest in our blog. A mix of sand and oyster shell (available at garden supply shops) is best. The substrate should be kept dry, and should be deep enough for the tortoise to dig a shallow sleeping area 6 inches or so) ; please note that glass aquariums are not suitable homes (please see article for further details).
Please check this article on Russian Tortoise Diets; food intake depends upon temperature and the tortoise’s age, but feeding every other day, or small daily meals with occasional fast days, works well. Provide as much as the tortoise can eat in 10 minutes or so.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
plz b spacific on this wht do u need for a russian tortoise homing
about 10 months ago
puedo banar mi tortuga con jabon de banar (Can I use soap to bathe my turtle?)
about 10 months ago
Hola, No, usted no debe usar jabón para bañar a su tortuga … mejor usar agua del grifo o añadir añadir un poco de bicarbonato de sodio. (No, best to use plain water or add a bit of baking soda if need be).
about 10 months ago
Hello Brenda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Sorry if I did not provide enough information last time. You’ll need a cage measuring appx. 4’ x 4’ or larger if possible…please check these plans for a table-top terrarium. Aquariums are not suitable. A small animal cage can suffice if the tortoise is given daily exercise in a room or safe outdoor area, but you may need to install a plastic barrier along the bottom of the cage to prevent climbing.
The tortoise will also need a powerful UVB bulb (or outdoor exposure to unfiltered sunlight) and a heat bulb that provides a basking spot of 90-95F; a mercury vapor bulb provides both UVB and heat. A secure hiding spot is also essential, although the tortoise may prefer to burrow into the substrate. Substrate should be dry – a mix of sandy soil and oyster shell is ideal. Please see this article for information concerning the diet.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
i fed my tortoise iceburg lettuce is this really bad….. can he die… i need to know as soon as possible
about 10 months ago
Hello Brenda, Frank Indiviglio here.
Don’t worry. The problem with iceberg lettuce is that it is not very nutritious. It will not hurt the tortoise, but if the tortoise eats it for a long time then he will not be getting proper nutrition and will eventually suffer vitamin and mineral deficiencies.
Please let me know if you need any further information. Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.
about 10 months ago
thnk u frank i was so worried
about 10 months ago
Hello Brenda Indiviglio here.
Your welcome…please feel free to write in if you’d like some thoughts on the rest of his diet.
Good luck, enjoy and please keep me posted.
Best regards, Frank Indiviglio.